I currently use a Predator 173cc on my Husqvarna body. I had to use a spacer because the blade was too low under the chassis. No biggie... You can use washers too. (nickels and dimes) This engine is supposed to be a copy of a Honda GXV. I used to try and put new carbs onto Honda GCV's...But this is my new "go-to" motor for my mowing business. $109 plus tax, runs like a scalded ass bee-otch, doesnt bog down in high grass. And for $109, if I break one after running $6000 worth of lawns, so what. The actual Honda GXV its copied after is about $350-400. Same power, same specs. Just keep a clean air filter and fresh oil in it.
I did it 2 years ago. Working great still! I don't even baby the thing and it still does the job with ease. I'm in the northwest where our yards grow like crazy, so it's paid itself off in my opinion.
I just did one had lot of power but junk the base plate so soft pot mettle it self tops. Can't tighten Down do to it stripping. Also so picky on oil leak and engine breakers I just have to unplug the stop coil on the spark plug. So to stop it I have to run out of gas.
Do you have the part number of your original blade holder? I've tried to buy such based on the O.D. of the engine shaft & key width but many companies ONLY have part numbers and NO specifications, THANKS for ANY help
I find free lawnmowers on Craiglist that won't start and fix them. haven't bought one in years. Typically its just a matter of cleaning out the carburator, change spark plug, etc. One freebie was completely seized up - owner never bothered to check the oil ! was bone dry and once it was filled with oil I simply worked the blade back and forth and soon it was as good as new.
question, i got 1 lawn mower that hit a rock and shakes like crazy now. changed the blade, still shakes. if i put its engine on another body, would the shake go away? in theory..
Sound Therapy you more than likely bent the crankshaft when you hit something as solid as a rock. Granted you can straighten the crank you’ll be better off buying a new mower
Dont do that. The oil seal to the crankcase cover is already "f'ed" because of the crankshaft not being running in a perfect circle. If the crank is bent, its running in an egg shape. Or oval, whatever... Dont beat on shit with a hammer. Trust me.
TheCaskOf43 I agree with you on that. Some mower shops have a crank straightener that can get the crank perfectly straight but only an extremely skilled mechanic with years of experience could get the crank even close to straight
MethCircuS O gosh I don't remember I just measured the bolts that I had and used that tap. I have a whole MAC tools tap set though, but any should work.
You can also run nuts and bolts all the way through with lock washers. When I bought this motor, I did not realize I would have to tap out the mounting holes. I was in a time crunch. I had some nuts and bolts in reserve from other projects.
5/16-24 is what the supplied bolt is. My only problem was the engine brake an my Yardman. The OEM was about 64 inches long and I had to cut it down to about 50”. Including going to the hardware store, I worked all day. Still worth it, though. I’m
I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question properly or not but are you talking about your blade adapter or shaft/sleeve adapter? I just ordered a 7/8" to 1" crankshaft sleeve adapter so that I could use the original 1" drive pulley and blade adapter that came on my Snapper lawnmower. I need to use a step key as well because the Predator crankshaft key slot is 3/16" and the pulley and blade adapter uses a 1/4" keyway, hence the step key. You can find many different size shaft adapters and keyways/step keyways depending on your application. I just ordered mine from Ebay, it's a 7/8" to 1" shaft sleeve adapter with the step key that I need. The Predator 5.5 hp vertical shaft lawnmower engine has a 7/8" shaft whereas the original Briggs engine that came on the lawnmower had a 1" shaft.
Jeff Stone - A real hassle for me. The B&S blade hub on my 1972 Snapper has a 5/32” keyway. Whereas the Predator’s crankshaft has a 3/16” keyway. An appropriate step key for those dimensions is hard to find. Can anyone recommend a source?
@@Slithey7433 Go to eBay and search shaft adapter with a stepper key just get it for 7/8th to the size of your drive shaft and you should be ok also the shaft is metric.
I've done 2 preditor swaps and have come to the conclusion it's not worth it. Harbor freight used to accept the 20 percent off coupon not any more. That brought the price down to $80 bucks which was barely ok. Now days days your looking at over 100 bucks just for the engine. Plus any hardware and since you have your mower apart if it's self propelled better change the belt and new blade so you have another 30 bucks into it make sure your old blade adapter is 7/8 inch if not could add another 10 bucks. I wouldn't waste time tapping the holes one hole is already tapped 3/8×24. The other 2 just get some long bolts. You can buy a new self propelled mower with that same engine at Menards for $160. So if you add up you time and possible parts best case senerio you break even.
I currently use a Predator 173cc on my Husqvarna body. I had to use a spacer because the blade was too low under the chassis. No biggie... You can use washers too. (nickels and dimes) This engine is supposed to be a copy of a Honda GXV. I used to try and put new carbs onto Honda GCV's...But this is my new "go-to" motor for my mowing business. $109 plus tax, runs like a scalded ass bee-otch, doesnt bog down in high grass. And for $109, if I break one after running $6000 worth of lawns, so what. The actual Honda GXV its copied after is about $350-400. Same power, same specs. Just keep a clean air filter and fresh oil in it.
I did it 2 years ago. Working great still! I don't even baby the thing and it still does the job with ease. I'm in the northwest where our yards grow like crazy, so it's paid itself off in my opinion.
Did you use washer and what size screws and lock nuts will there be a space in the mount
You should turn up the idle a bit. Just a suggestion.
I just did one had lot of power but junk the base plate so soft pot mettle it self tops. Can't tighten Down do to it stripping. Also so picky on oil leak and engine breakers I just have to unplug the stop coil on the spark plug. So to stop it I have to run out of gas.
Do you have the part number of your original blade holder? I've tried to buy such based on the O.D. of the engine shaft & key width but many companies ONLY have part numbers and NO specifications, THANKS for ANY help
I would have liked to see what you did for the throttle control on the carburetor side of the engine.
Just run to Lowes, get a $8 universal throttle control and slap that bad boy on there, I think it even includes the one bolt you'll need.
I find free lawnmowers on Craiglist that won't start and fix them. haven't bought one in years. Typically its just a matter of cleaning out the carburator, change spark plug, etc. One freebie was completely seized up - owner never bothered to check the oil ! was bone dry and once it was filled with oil I simply worked the blade back and forth and soon it was as good as new.
Mine I had to put a throttle cable on it also
question, i got 1 lawn mower that hit a rock and shakes like crazy now. changed the blade, still shakes. if i put its engine on another body, would the shake go away? in theory..
Sound Therapy you more than likely bent the crankshaft when you hit something as solid as a rock. Granted you can straighten the crank you’ll be better off buying a new mower
thanks . will try straightening first w/ a hammer
Dont do that. The oil seal to the crankcase cover is already "f'ed" because of the crankshaft not being running in a perfect circle. If the crank is bent, its running in an egg shape. Or oval, whatever... Dont beat on shit with a hammer. Trust me.
TheCaskOf43 I agree with you on that. Some mower shops have a crank straightener that can get the crank perfectly straight but only an extremely skilled mechanic with years of experience could get the crank even close to straight
what size tap did you use, and what brand tap?!
MethCircuS O gosh I don't remember I just measured the bolts that I had and used that tap. I have a whole MAC tools tap set though, but any should work.
You can also run nuts and bolts all the way through with lock washers. When I bought this motor, I did not realize I would have to tap out the mounting holes. I was in a time crunch. I had some nuts and bolts in reserve from other projects.
5/16-24 is what the supplied bolt is. My only problem was the engine brake an my Yardman. The OEM was about 64 inches long and I had to cut it down to about 50”. Including going to the hardware store, I worked all day. Still worth it, though. I’m
Hey. great video. I just bought the same motor. i am having an issue with my old shaft adapter fitting the new engine. any ideas?
I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question properly or not but are you talking about your blade adapter or shaft/sleeve adapter? I just ordered a 7/8" to 1" crankshaft sleeve adapter so that I could use the original 1" drive pulley and blade adapter that came on my Snapper lawnmower. I need to use a step key as well because the Predator crankshaft key slot is 3/16" and the pulley and blade adapter uses a 1/4" keyway, hence the step key. You can find many different size shaft adapters and keyways/step keyways depending on your application. I just ordered mine from Ebay, it's a 7/8" to 1" shaft sleeve adapter with the step key that I need. The Predator 5.5 hp vertical shaft lawnmower engine has a 7/8" shaft whereas the original Briggs engine that came on the lawnmower had a 1" shaft.
Go to eBay for around ten dollars get a 7/8th to 1 inch shaft adapter with included stepper key. Then it should fit.
Jeff Stone - A real hassle for me. The B&S blade hub on my 1972 Snapper has a 5/32” keyway. Whereas the Predator’s crankshaft has a 3/16” keyway. An appropriate step key for those dimensions is hard to find. Can anyone recommend a source?
@@Slithey7433 Go to eBay and search shaft adapter with a stepper key just get it for 7/8th to the size of your drive shaft and you should be ok also the shaft is metric.
@@Slithey7433 If you can't find one online you could get a machine shop to make one.
Is it still running? You still satisfied with the swap?
Numa Newbern yes still running good!
Does it fit a toro mowers
Andy Martinez I'm not sure but if the bolt pattern was the same as the predator engine I don't see why not.
With the right mods and adapters, you can stick a predator on a baby stroller for all anyone cares.
Chris Marek lol I care I guess! 😂
I've done 2 preditor swaps and have come to the conclusion it's not worth it. Harbor freight used to accept the 20 percent off coupon not any more. That brought the price down to $80 bucks which was barely ok. Now days days your looking at over 100 bucks just for the engine. Plus any hardware and since you have your mower apart if it's self propelled better change the belt and new blade so you have another 30 bucks into it make sure your old blade adapter is 7/8 inch if not could add another 10 bucks. I wouldn't waste time tapping the holes one hole is already tapped 3/8×24. The other 2 just get some long bolts. You can buy a new self propelled mower with that same engine at Menards for $160. So if you add up you time and possible parts best case senerio you break even.
SHOW HOW YOU TAPPED OUT THE HOLES PLEASE
Terry Smith just drilled and tapped the deck
Mounting bolts never that easy to remove for me.
strange those engine bolts never break on youtube.
SHOW HOW YOU DID THE MOUNTING PLEASE I HAVE A POLAN PRO I AM TRYING TO MOUNT THAT MOWER ON .
Lol twice the size for that small deck
These damn things are 170$+ tax now
$229 now...