I show you how I do a leak down test and the importance of doing so. Here is a link to the leak I found on another engine in the magneto housing! www.instagram....
I struggled to make this type of leak down kit work but i didn't think of those tips you suggested. I went out and bought the Daryl Taylor kit which wasn't cheap but much easier to seal up. I could of saved a few quid if I had seen this video 1st.
Hi Rob just got a Blood pressure pump kit delivered it’s all attached to the bag seems like the only way to use it is with a tee piece to make it three way where would I get a tee piece from any advice would be helpful thanks 👍
Rob, is there an 'acceptable' pressure loss ? Currently I'm losing about 20 mmhg (spigometers as you say) within 10minutes. So it's a slow leak but it is leaking but from where I haven't found yet.
That sounds OK. According to the Internet if you pump up to 300, then a loss of 50 spigomiterometers (tm) pr minute is fine. Personally on my last builds I've tested 220 but only lost 10, in 10 minutes. Just make sure piston is at bdc and I've started to use leak spray in a can to check the main bearing seal. After the s1 engine rebuild I noticed a small leak past the seal plate because the seal plate didn't clamp down on the hallite because on this Indian motor, the bearing sits a bit lower. This is apparently common on Indian blocks. I used some sealent on the hallite washer and that cured it. Had to rebuild 3 times before I caught it. Ffs.
Because the bgm has a flange it will work fine 😎 I use wellseal mostly on non flange heads. I also used three bond on my ss and after 2 years it showed no sign of blowing.
Nice trick with the inner tube👌 A common misconception that a small manifold leak like you have on that engine would suck in extra air and run lean but in fact, it won't it will run rich as the air/mix is forced out the leak on the compression stroke, on the intake stroke air will always take the easy route through the open carb /reeds not a tiny hole in the manifold ......big holes or splits in the rubber /gasket are a different matter and will make it run lean . The first signs of a manifold leak are a rich burbbly bottom end that most people put down to jetting so they lean the jetting out, then when the leak gets worse it compounds the problem. Interested in how you get on with the clutch, never had much success with them myself 😒
The lad who owns the motor is on a budjet, what problems have you had with the clutch? I don't think the inlet leak is the only leak, so I'll take off the primary when the inlet is sorted.
@@shinyred shit. In other words, just an old school 5 plate oversprung clutch. Thats the problem if you are not willing to pay what it costs for the newer type clutches.
I struggled to make this type of leak down kit work but i didn't think of those tips you suggested. I went out and bought the Daryl Taylor kit which wasn't cheap but much easier to seal up. I could of saved a few quid if I had seen this video 1st.
Hi, i see you use Three Bond 1215, but what do you use if you need something for the cylinder head? Thanks
I use wellseal on the cylinder head. Great stuff and err, Seale well 😂
One tip. Dont hold throttle open for extended periods on hot summers day😂😂😂☠️
Hi Rob just got a Blood pressure pump kit delivered it’s all attached to the bag seems like the only way to use it is with a tee piece to make it three way where would I get a tee piece from any advice would be helpful thanks 👍
Hi Eric, send me an email or pic on face and I'll help you. So we don't end up talking in tounges
Rob, is there an 'acceptable' pressure loss ? Currently I'm losing about 20 mmhg (spigometers as you say) within 10minutes. So it's a slow leak but it is leaking but from where I haven't found yet.
That sounds OK. According to the Internet if you pump up to 300, then a loss of 50 spigomiterometers (tm) pr minute is fine. Personally on my last builds I've tested 220 but only lost 10, in 10 minutes. Just make sure piston is at bdc and I've started to use leak spray in a can to check the main bearing seal. After the s1 engine rebuild I noticed a small leak past the seal plate because the seal plate didn't clamp down on the hallite because on this Indian motor, the bearing sits a bit lower. This is apparently common on Indian blocks. I used some sealent on the hallite washer and that cured it. Had to rebuild 3 times before I caught it. Ffs.
Hi Rob I’ve used the three bond on the BGM head as well as the casing gaskets will it be ok🤔🤔🤔
Because the bgm has a flange it will work fine 😎 I use wellseal mostly on non flange heads. I also used three bond on my ss and after 2 years it showed no sign of blowing.
Nice trick with the inner tube👌 A common misconception that a small manifold leak like you have on that engine would suck in extra air and run lean but in fact, it won't it will run rich as the air/mix is forced out the leak on the compression stroke, on the intake stroke air will always take the easy route through the open carb /reeds not a tiny hole in the manifold ......big holes or splits in the rubber /gasket are a different matter and will make it run lean .
The first signs of a manifold leak are a rich burbbly bottom end that most people put down to jetting so they lean the jetting out, then when the leak gets worse it compounds the problem.
Interested in how you get on with the clutch, never had much success with them myself 😒
The lad who owns the motor is on a budjet, what problems have you had with the clutch? I don't think the inlet leak is the only leak, so I'll take off the primary when the inlet is sorted.
@@kickbackgarage very stiff action and hard to get right
@@shinyred shit. In other words, just an old school 5 plate oversprung clutch. Thats the problem if you are not willing to pay what it costs for the newer type clutches.
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