Absolutely fantastic video and instruction. In hundreds if not thousands of these great DIY videos over the years I don't think I have seen anyone do better. Thanks very much and I will be ordering everything needed. Normally I would shop these parts all over the place but I think any company that puts in this type of effort and skill like this deserves loyalty in return.
My wife just looked over my shoulder and said "haven't you already done that bit?". She's right. I've already upgraded the suspension on my 996 Turbo ... but I'm watching the video anyway haha
Thanks Mike for the DIY. I gleaned lots of good tips from it. Did today on all 4 corners, but on a 997.2 C4S. It was much more difficult than depicted in the video. One of the most difficult parts was removing the bolt that retains the bottom of the rear struts. Mike makes mention of this, but the bolt does not come past the toe bar. I was not able to figure out how to move the strut down and around to allow said bolt to slip past the Toe Bar. I finally removed the Toe Bar nut and grunted the Bar up and out of the way. Very frustrating. Why Porsche couldn't have moved something a millimeter or 2 is beyond me. In general, it's much more difficult to remove the old struts, front and back than shown in the video. This is partly due to the front drive shafts on the 4 wheel drive models. On the fronts, I removed all the brake stuff, and rotor, and the ball link nut on the lower control arm. One other comment replates to reassembly. Be very mindful of putting things back in an order that will allow each nut to be torqued as you go. Thanks, Joe
You missed a very important step. You should mention that when assembling the rear coilovers, you have to transfer the rear shock mount AND the metal washer on the old strut shaft that is visible at 20:39. Without that washer, the coilover will rattle. Ask me how I know.
AWD cars are not the same but C4S is in the title.. Additional work is required to deal with the front axles which is not shown in the video. Otherwise it's a top notch DIY video. Thanks for posting!
Great video, you make it look so easy! Every other DIY I've looked at for this requires a ball joint separator to remove one end of the tie rod, but you don't make any mention of that step in here (that I can see). Is this not required to be able to pivot the carrier down? Note: I have a 997.1 so possibly a bit different?
Good vid. Gonna be doing this on my 987.1. I wondered why you weren't swapping out sway bar end links to adjustable ones when you did the front, but then when doing the rear coilovers you mentioned "new sway bar". I assume you did in fact swap end links (front and rear) in order to keep the sway bar geometry close to stock with the lowered ride hight. True??
This is great. I was wondering if you could do a 996 with the KW v3s! Some say you need a KW adapter (that I can't find anywhere) if you are using the OEM upper mounts. I can only find KW adapters for the rears. cheers!
The 996 to the 997 has a very similar suspension setup minus the PASM. The difference between the C2 and the C4 is minimal, no real additional complexity. I'd recommend just taking a look at the parts diagram for both before you get started to familiarise yourself.
Following on from this, I too thought the 997 C4S required front knuckle/ hub removal….. if it’s a case of just pulling down hard on the shock asm I’d opt for this if possible. Thanks in advance
@@James_Sovereign Only if your 996T has been converted to RWD. The front driveshafts are not covered in this video...there are a couple of ways to deal with them, the easiest being removing the 6 axle stub bolts on each side of the front diff to provide just enough movement to allow the strut+wheel hub assembly outside the fender to enable the rest of the work to continue. This isn't a minor difference. I did this job on my 996TT which I converted to RWD because the AWD system is useless in that car. My 997TT was a lot more difficult because I retained AWD.
Many thanks, very helpful. One question re the 997.1 without PASM . Does the rear original shock also come with no pre-load so no need for a spring compressor? Many thanks in advance.
This guy is as good as it gets for this type of video, commentary and workflow are spot on. Never misses a beat.
Keep the 997 DIYs coming FCP Euro! Great reference content for those of us who need to do some maintenance to our cars.
Absolutely fantastic video and instruction. In hundreds if not thousands of these great DIY videos over the years I don't think I have seen anyone do better. Thanks very much and I will be ordering everything needed. Normally I would shop these parts all over the place but I think any company that puts in this type of effort and skill like this deserves loyalty in return.
My wife just looked over my shoulder and said "haven't you already done that bit?". She's right. I've already upgraded the suspension on my 996 Turbo ... but I'm watching the video anyway haha
Tell er to go back And wach her house wives video
Thanks Mike for the DIY. I gleaned lots of good tips from it. Did today on all 4 corners, but on a 997.2 C4S. It was much more difficult than depicted in the video. One of the most difficult parts was removing the bolt that retains the bottom of the rear struts. Mike makes mention of this, but the bolt does not come past the toe bar. I was not able to figure out how to move the strut down and around to allow said bolt to slip past the Toe Bar. I finally removed the Toe Bar nut and grunted the Bar up and out of the way. Very frustrating. Why Porsche couldn't have moved something a millimeter or 2 is beyond me. In general, it's much more difficult to remove the old struts, front and back than shown in the video. This is partly due to the front drive shafts on the 4 wheel drive models. On the fronts, I removed all the brake stuff, and rotor, and the ball link nut on the lower control arm. One other comment replates to reassembly. Be very mindful of putting things back in an order that will allow each nut to be torqued as you go. Thanks, Joe
This was a fantastic video. Ordered a full set of shocks and struts from FCP and followed this. The best DIY for my 997 to date
You missed a very important step. You should mention that when assembling the rear coilovers, you have to transfer the rear shock mount AND the metal washer on the old strut shaft that is visible at 20:39. Without that washer, the coilover will rattle. Ask me how I know.
To say "thank you" for producing this video I bought my parts from fcp euro. keep the vids coming and I'll keep buying my parts from you.
Thank you so much for being a customer! We really appreciate it. We have plenty more exciting things planned for 2023 :)
Definitely gonna refer back to this when that time comes. I really liked the angles and the editing, really helpful!
Mike, outstanding video about DIY B16 coilover install. Keep those DIY on 997 coming. Really enjoy watching you.
excellent instruction and the video was very clear and easy to follow. TY!
Glad it was helpful; thank you for watching!
Man, you made it look so easy. Kudos. Awesome production! :)
Excellent and Brilliant show of expertise. No BS, no stupid talk. Just business. Very good, one of the best i have seen !!! thanks !! \
\
Great DIY. Exactly what I was waiting for! Thanks.
Great DIY video! Please do 997.2 Clutch replacement and Power Steering Pump replacement DIY videos.
MAN I wish I had this video 9 months ago when I installed my pss10s! would have been a lot less swearing
Eres un salvaje Mike !!! que buen video !!! de lo mejor que he visto . Saludos
AWD cars are not the same but C4S is in the title.. Additional work is required to deal with the front axles which is not shown in the video. Otherwise it's a top notch DIY video. Thanks for posting!
I learned this the hard way. The front mounts are angled, and the B16 kit comes with different spacers
Great video!!!! Do you guys have one yet for the 992 gen??? Would love it.
Very thorough! Great work!
Great video, you make it look so easy! Every other DIY I've looked at for this requires a ball joint separator to remove one end of the tie rod, but you don't make any mention of that step in here (that I can see). Is this not required to be able to pivot the carrier down? Note: I have a 997.1 so possibly a bit different?
Good vid. Gonna be doing this on my 987.1. I wondered why you weren't swapping out sway bar end links to adjustable ones when you did the front, but then when doing the rear coilovers you mentioned "new sway bar". I assume you did in fact swap end links (front and rear) in order to keep the sway bar geometry close to stock with the lowered ride hight. True??
This is great. I was wondering if you could do a 996 with the KW v3s! Some say you need a KW adapter (that I can't find anywhere) if you are using the OEM upper mounts. I can only find KW adapters for the rears. cheers!
How similar is the install between a 997 and a 996? Also a c2 vs c4? It's my understanding the C4 takes a bit more work.
The 996 to the 997 has a very similar suspension setup minus the PASM. The difference between the C2 and the C4 is minimal, no real additional complexity. I'd recommend just taking a look at the parts diagram for both before you get started to familiarise yourself.
Following on from this, I too thought the 997 C4S required front knuckle/ hub removal….. if it’s a case of just pulling down hard on the shock asm I’d opt for this if possible. Thanks in advance
@@James_Sovereign Only if your 996T has been converted to RWD. The front driveshafts are not covered in this video...there are a couple of ways to deal with them, the easiest being removing the 6 axle stub bolts on each side of the front diff to provide just enough movement to allow the strut+wheel hub assembly outside the fender to enable the rest of the work to continue. This isn't a minor difference. I did this job on my 996TT which I converted to RWD because the AWD system is useless in that car. My 997TT was a lot more difficult because I retained AWD.
I don't see any damping adjusters. I thought B16s were tunable with damping adjusters located top or bottom. Where are the adjusters located?
Hi Steve, for this specific model, it has electronic dampening meaning it’s electronic, no manual adjustments on the dampers.
Hey
Same way for a 4S ? Or does it needs more work ?
Why did you not show the drop on the 997. Was the lower on the new setup
The owner of the car wanted it set at factory ride height after the install so they could lower it to their liking on their own time 😓
Many thanks, very helpful. One question re the 997.1 without PASM . Does the rear original shock also come with no pre-load so no need for a spring compressor? Many thanks in advance.
Hi Markus, unfortunately we have not gotten our hands on a .1 yet to confirm.
Many thanks.
what is the bedding process for the brakes?
Is this the same for 2006 C4?
Man why didn't this video come out 2 weeks ago 😂
So...how is this an upgrade over the stock set-up? They look to me that they do the same thing.
The Bilstein B16s have a higher level of adjustability over stock.
@@James_Sovereign Thank you, sir!
How are you not gonna include an 'after' shot? Blue balled again :((
👍👍👍👍
AWD models require more work in the front.