So happy you've been kicking out this content. I just picked up my 996 a few months ago and your videos have been so helpful! Already placed several orders from FCP. Keep it up!
Hey Mike, great job with this installation and great job with this instrution! Special thanks mentioning all the torques! I'm sure it will help me a lot. Keep on rolling your 996.. Fun fact: I checked out your video after you told me about it... and found out in my history I already saw it some time ago! Oo Not to forget.. nice work of your camera and video creation team! Greetings from Ennepetal, Daniel
On the front strut replacements, I would change the order of the disassembly/reassembly. The speed sensor and brake sensor plugs should be removed first, then the sensor bracket, and all that stuff should be moved out of the way before doing anything else (including before removing the brake line bracket and caliper). Likewise, they should be the last pieces to be reinstalled on the front. Also, removing the control arms and separating the wheel carrier is absolutely not necessary, make the job much more complicated, and adds risk. You just need to be able to provide support to the wheel carrier underneath, and you'll never put any stress on anything. Place painters tape on the painted surfaces of the wheel arch to make sure that the assembled strut doesn't graze the paint on removal and reinstallation. You'll have plenty of room to get it in and out with the wheel carrier, control arms and steering rod all connected.
Not tedious at all and and an excellent, senior (or pro if you prefer!) classroom grade presentation, thank you. Two questions from the layman if I may: 1 -springs are always loaded before that removed with the help of coil spring compressor. As is. Now when they go back in / get replaced it never looks like the new ones are under any compression at all. Is this just (a wrong) impression or not? 2 - for the Sunday man who doesn't have a nice car lift neither a screw jack: I am under the impression you tightened the ball / rubber joints with the help of the screw jack (albeit I would thought this would not be equivalent to a car standing on the ground by its own means) - am I correct? Is this then enough? Otherwise if one lowers down the car to do all the required tightening can one access all the bolts and nuts that need tightening with the car flat on the tarmac? I don't think there will be enough access and thus the question: what would be your recommendations please? Thank you and thank you for whoever filmed and produced it as well.
There is a Zen like cool to your presentation. How do u do that? Whenever I am describing mechanical processes it sounds like I have no clue what I’m talking about. Of course that’s generally the case anyway exceptionally well done, we’ll shot well great audio five stars bros and I am now officially subscribing
I wouldn’t spend time on B8 with H&R’s, car will sit quite low and exhibit bounce steer, and ride very stiff. Good at the track, not good on normal USA crap roads. If you can’t afford otherwise excellent Ohlins, factory ROW M030 springs with Koni’s a great choice (not sure why nearly new Koni coming out but for Ohlins sure). Removing the entire strut assembly is definitely the best and safest way to do this, good job!
I installed the H&R springs and bilstein b8’s instead. Followed all the steps well. The car also has all new control arms, sway bar end links, sway bar bushing and top mounts, however I am now getting a creaking sound over bumps and sometimes a light thud. Any ideas?
I'm doing this now. At 27:28, you said tie rod to wheel carrier nut torque was 56 ft-lb, at 27:32 the script on the screen says 118 ft-lb. I believe Porsche workshop manual specifies 56 ft-lb.
What about adjusting ride height when the units are installed, I take it the preload is the initial preload, isn't the ride height adjusted using the two lock rings that pre load the spring?
Hello my good Michael! Love my Ohlins! I'm running 2mm pre-load and 12 clicks out on all four corners for the street. 2mm is the old spec vs 5mm for the new. But, I think 2mm is pretty nice for the back roads😎
We had the 996 with these Ohlins out on track today for our 996 buyers guide and mannnn did they feel and look good out there. Car felt amazing compared to the stock suspension we had ran it with previously, some more fine tuning with them and we will be mint!
@@fcpeuro Did you get sway bars? I can’t remember if that was done in one of your vids. You’ll be very pleased with the turn-in you get from a proper set of sway bars. And the best part is, you don’t need adjustable links for the rear thanks to the movable Ohlins mounts.
Hey Mike, I just did this operation to my C4S with new Bilsteins instead of coilovers and all new controlarms all over. Install went really well with minimal hick ups thanks to this fantastic DIY along with the control arm DIY! One question; on my maiden voyage the rear said two semi big pops/rattles when turning over an undulation in the road, first right and then left. Ever since then it’s been perfect. Any idea why it did that? Could it just be the spring settling in?
Nice work, Klaus! More than likely it was the springs seating into the shocks, usually they have a small stop that keep them in place. Would not be a bad idea to raise back up and inspect, to make sure everything is still seated properly in the spring perches!
Well I just checked and turns out the right side rear endlink broke! Brand new Corteco part! The top ball joint just popped out and the plastic carrier parts are broken. Can these be installed incorrectly?
Hi Shane, you can use a flat head screwdriver and drive it between the disc and pads to force the pistons back in a bit. Just be mindful that you risk damaging both the pads and discs; totally okay if you are replacing them.
I thought that was dumb, so I didn't cut mine. Slipped over the shock body and fit perfect. And now there no dust lol. Stupid recommendation for a street car, but it makes sense on a track car
Hello! I just ordered parts from FCP Euro. I'm not doing the coil overs yet, but just the struts and springs. with the Bilstein B8's, do I need bump stops? Do the Bilsteins have them built in? the internet has both answers... 22-046246 rear and 22-046239 front. please help!
Just double checked them you should be good to go, we actually had a rare site outage around the time of your comment so it must have coincided with that. Sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for the heads ups!
There is no way this is realistic, in the real world there is substantial corrosion between the aluminium and steel components, making every step an utter pain. And if you think your strut will just pull out after loosening the pinch bolt you are very wrong, and separating them on the bench is much harder, best to break it attached and remove the lower assembly while the strut is connected at the top as it is held in place for the struggle to remove the lower assembly. I appreciate the video is to help show you how, but the car looks almost brand new and is not realistic of what you will need to do on your car unless it’s a garage queen that’s sadly never driven. Expect to need much much much more time to do this job, particularly if you live in a country where the use salt in the winters.
Sometimes I watch your videos just so I can hear someone call me one of the "good people".
We absolutely love that for you
I LIKE THE WAY YOU TOOK YOUR TIME AND WALKED EVERYONE STEP BY STEP THROUGH THOROUGHLY,,,, VERY GOOD JOB THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!!!!
Happy to help 8power0 !
So happy you've been kicking out this content. I just picked up my 996 a few months ago and your videos have been so helpful! Already placed several orders from FCP. Keep it up!
Happy to help jagtem! How has 996 ownership been thus far?
Hey Mike,
great job with this installation and great job with this instrution!
Special thanks mentioning all the torques! I'm sure it will help me a lot.
Keep on rolling your 996..
Fun fact: I checked out your video after you told me about it... and found out in my history I already saw it some time ago! Oo
Not to forget.. nice work of your camera and video creation team!
Greetings from Ennepetal,
Daniel
You make the best , detailed videos. Thanks my good man
On the front strut replacements, I would change the order of the disassembly/reassembly. The speed sensor and brake sensor plugs should be removed first, then the sensor bracket, and all that stuff should be moved out of the way before doing anything else (including before removing the brake line bracket and caliper). Likewise, they should be the last pieces to be reinstalled on the front.
Also, removing the control arms and separating the wheel carrier is absolutely not necessary, make the job much more complicated, and adds risk. You just need to be able to provide support to the wheel carrier underneath, and you'll never put any stress on anything. Place painters tape on the painted surfaces of the wheel arch to make sure that the assembled strut doesn't graze the paint on removal and reinstallation. You'll have plenty of room to get it in and out with the wheel carrier, control arms and steering rod all connected.
Finally a good mechanic
Perfektní profesiálně udělané video,které pochopí i naprostý amatér!Děkuji,skvělá práce.!!! Srdečně zdraví Jarda Kučera Czech Republik
Awesome description you make it look easy, but the reality may differ... just need my own car lift to just redo everything..
Great professional easy way of explaining the entire procedure. Liked how you took your time great way to go thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Always helpful! Thanks Mike and the Team at FCP!
Thanks. Great Tutorial. The best. 👍👍
Not tedious at all and and an excellent, senior (or pro if you prefer!) classroom grade presentation, thank you. Two questions from the layman if I may: 1 -springs are always loaded before that removed with the help of coil spring compressor. As is. Now when they go back in / get replaced it never looks like the new ones are under any compression at all. Is this just (a wrong) impression or not? 2 - for the Sunday man who doesn't have a nice car lift neither a screw jack: I am under the impression you tightened the ball / rubber joints with the help of the screw jack (albeit I would thought this would not be equivalent to a car standing on the ground by its own means) - am I correct? Is this then enough? Otherwise if one lowers down the car to do all the required tightening can one access all the bolts and nuts that need tightening with the car flat on the tarmac? I don't think there will be enough access and thus the question: what would be your recommendations please? Thank you and thank you for whoever filmed and produced it as well.
There is a Zen like cool to your presentation. How do u do that? Whenever I am describing mechanical processes it sounds like I have no clue what I’m talking about. Of course that’s generally the case
anyway exceptionally well done, we’ll shot well great audio
five stars bros and I am now officially subscribing
I wouldn’t spend time on B8 with H&R’s, car will sit quite low and exhibit bounce steer, and ride very stiff. Good at the track, not good on normal USA crap roads. If you can’t afford otherwise excellent Ohlins, factory ROW M030 springs with Koni’s a great choice (not sure why nearly new Koni coming out but for Ohlins sure). Removing the entire strut assembly is definitely the best and safest way to do this, good job!
Beautiful
Nice vid…. Just want to mention that Ohlins now recommends a 5mm (195mm) preload.
Thanks for the info!
Great vid ! last year I did a few vids on free mods for the 996.
Fantastic video!
Thank you very much!
Thanks a lot for your DIY.
Will you do the same DIY for 997.2? Thanks.
How do you know how much torque you need to use for each bolt?
Much detail
I installed the H&R springs and bilstein b8’s instead. Followed all the steps well. The car also has all new control arms, sway bar end links, sway bar bushing and top mounts, however I am now getting a creaking sound over bumps and sometimes a light thud. Any ideas?
How much are the washers? ;)
I'm doing this now. At 27:28, you said tie rod to wheel carrier nut torque was 56 ft-lb, at 27:32 the script on the screen says 118 ft-lb. I believe Porsche workshop manual specifies 56 ft-lb.
You are correct, 56ftlbs! Sorry for that graphic error! We have another DIY coming out for tie rods on a 997/996 specifically, soon 😎
Are the fronts different for the AWD Carrera 4?
What about adjusting ride height when the units are installed, I take it the preload is the initial preload, isn't the ride height adjusted using the two lock rings that pre load the spring?
I just reviewed this video and I have my answer it is NOT the two lock rings that preload the spring, they are not used for the ride height.
Hello my good Michael! Love my Ohlins! I'm running 2mm pre-load and 12 clicks out on all four corners for the street. 2mm is the old spec vs 5mm for the new. But, I think 2mm is pretty nice for the back roads😎
We had the 996 with these Ohlins out on track today for our 996 buyers guide and mannnn did they feel and look good out there. Car felt amazing compared to the stock suspension we had ran it with previously, some more fine tuning with them and we will be mint!
@@fcpeuro Did you get sway bars? I can’t remember if that was done in one of your vids. You’ll be very pleased with the turn-in you get from a proper set of sway bars. And the best part is, you don’t need adjustable links for the rear thanks to the movable Ohlins mounts.
Great video! Remember to keep your crow's foot at 90° to the torque wrench handle though ;-)
Great point, Andrew!
Hey Mike, I just did this operation to my C4S with new Bilsteins instead of coilovers and all new controlarms all over. Install went really well with minimal hick ups thanks to this fantastic DIY along with the control arm DIY! One question; on my maiden voyage the rear said two semi big pops/rattles when turning over an undulation in the road, first right and then left. Ever since then it’s been perfect. Any idea why it did that? Could it just be the spring settling in?
Nice work, Klaus! More than likely it was the springs seating into the shocks, usually they have a small stop that keep them in place. Would not be a bad idea to raise back up and inspect, to make sure everything is still seated properly in the spring perches!
Well I just checked and turns out the right side rear endlink broke! Brand new Corteco part! The top ball joint just popped out and the plastic carrier parts are broken. Can these be installed incorrectly?
I can't get the callipers off, the pads seem to be pressed firm against the rotors, how do I get them to release?
Hi Shane, you can use a flat head screwdriver and drive it between the disc and pads to force the pistons back in a bit. Just be mindful that you risk damaging both the pads and discs; totally okay if you are replacing them.
Boot should keep dirt off the shock rod, why are they so short and not covering the them. Plus you cut one shorter
I thought that was dumb, so I didn't cut mine. Slipped over the shock body and fit perfect. And now there no dust lol. Stupid recommendation for a street car, but it makes sense on a track car
Hello! I just ordered parts from FCP Euro. I'm not doing the coil overs yet, but just the struts and springs. with the Bilstein B8's, do I need bump stops? Do the Bilsteins have them built in? the internet has both answers... 22-046246 rear and 22-046239 front. please help!
Hi Seth, the 996 units do not have internal bump stops; you will want to get some.
@@fcpeuro gotcha. what about the Boxster (986) version?
Mine is a 21mm
Do you have a Volvo p3 platform coilovers install?
Not quite yet, but a bunch of P3 content on the way, we are shooting it now!
Links are dead to products
Just double checked them you should be good to go, we actually had a rare site outage around the time of your comment so it must have coincided with that. Sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for the heads ups!
There is no way this is realistic, in the real world there is substantial corrosion between the aluminium and steel components, making every step an utter pain. And if you think your strut will just pull out after loosening the pinch bolt you are very wrong, and separating them on the bench is much harder, best to break it attached and remove the lower assembly while the strut is connected at the top as it is held in place for the struggle to remove the lower assembly.
I appreciate the video is to help show you how, but the car looks almost brand new and is not realistic of what you will need to do on your car unless it’s a garage queen that’s sadly never driven. Expect to need much much much more time to do this job, particularly if you live in a country where the use salt in the winters.