I agree 100% on both counts! I had it in my bed that if I didn’t like it I could just swap the compressor and tank for a CO2 bottle and use this stuff on my car hauler to air up tires and shit, but I’m really happy with this setup so I don’t see that happening. Lol.
I think that’s what I have is either a day I or duralast belt. I have a few regular tensioners laying around. I may try one of those instead of the manual one. Thing is this is only the 2nd time it’s thrown in in the last 2.5 years but obviously something isn’t right.
Take it an stab the gas an see how much slack goes in the one side of the belt on decell .. auto tentioner should help keep that slack up . Usually a dayco belt will hold up good. Keep me posted
I am very interested in the next video, please include details like how often the compressor runs, does it draw the alternator down much, etc. I am leaning this direction but I do a bit of drag racing, autox, and just street driving so I need it to last longer than 6-11 seconds at a time.
I made 5 passes and the compressor never came on. I forced it on before the last pass because tank pressure was getting close to the switch point and I didn’t want it coming on and scaring me during the pass. How much draw is in the alt depends on which compressor you use. I went with an upgraded compressor meant for larger 3-5 gallon tanks and I was able to run it 4 or 5 times while testing PIDs without starting the car and the battery voltage barely dropped at all. How much it will have to run is determined by your boost strategy, how much pressure you run in the tank, and what you set your line pressure at. If you buy a 1 gallon setup that only holds 105lbs in the tank, and you regulate your line pressure to 100psi then it’s probably gonna run quit a bit. If you buy a 2 gallon setup that holds 200psi in the tank and regulate line pressure to say 60psi, then it’s not gonna run much at all. I’ll explain more in the video but basically I talked to a lot of guys running “bare minimum” setups and some guys running better setups and pieced my setup together based on what I needed it to do and the space I wanted to put it in.
Not yet. Holley has written instructions that can be downloaded from their website and that’s what I used. But I’m thinking about putting a video together for people like me who would rather just watch a video. Lol.
Momma said theyd be days like this, and ICT will sell em to ya!!! LOL Been playing with the Map over Dome off the compressor housing, single 3 port. Needless to say i been riding the struggle bus as well.. Onboard air should be on the truck by Thursday, and with any luck we'll also get an additional Mac valve installed in hopes of gaining more control.
Yea the 4 ports are even more eradicate than the 3 ports. I fought that 4 port and compressor reference for the last 2 years. Every little change in weather would totally change what fury cycle was needed to make X amount of boost. This new setup is a night and day difference. It just makes what you tell it too. No more, no less. 👍
It’s like I keep saying brother, every single aspect of every vehicle we’ve built in this channel is covered in detail in the videos. Here’s the one showing what we did to make sure we didn’t burn wires on these headers. And no, it didn’t involve any heat boots, expensive ceramic wires, or custom made wires. 👍 th-cam.com/video/0C7HStejXuw/w-d-xo.html
I run a cheapy from Amazon small Viair 10000 onboard air system. To save outputs I just run one Mac valve to the top of the waste gate. With just one Mac valve it just vents to the atmosphere so the Mac valve pulses continuously during the run so uses much more air than a 2 Mac valve set up. The onboard air has plenty of volume to do this so who cares. My compressor hardly ever runs during a race day. I haven’t tried a boost ramp scenario. I just use duty cycle to hit the dome/boost I want for a run. I think the one Mac valve dome pressure scenario will have enough response for a smooth boost ramp but I have never tried it. Something to consider anyway. Good video. Looking forward to seeing datalogs and boost solenoid software stuff.
This was the same price as the Viar10000 but has a larger tank, a compressor that moves more air, and runs at 150psi instead of 105. To my understanding the single mac valve is good at putting air in but not so good at getting air out rapidly. Probably doesn’t matter if your just setting a steady pressure to maintain but might give you issues trying to precisely control a ramp or using some form of tps based modulation. I had thought about trying it that way but it was only $30 for a second mac valve so I decided to just do it the way Holley recommends the first time. And yea my compressor never kicked on. I kicked it on manually after the 4th pass because the tank was down to 135psi and the pressure switch kicks it in at 130 and I didn’t want it coming in mid pass and scaring me. 🤣 But with a 1.5 gallon tank holding at 150psi and my line pressure regulated to 60psi it barely even makes a dent in it each pass.
I couldnt be happier with this low budget onboard air setup. Now its time to go fast!
I'm excited to see the video on that
onboard air is wayyyyyyy better than a c02 bottle imo,
glad to hear you got a bunch sorted!
good or bad you learn!
I agree 100% on both counts! I had it in my bed that if I didn’t like it I could just swap the compressor and tank for a CO2 bottle and use this stuff on my car hauler to air up tires and shit, but I’m really happy with this setup so I don’t see that happening. Lol.
"Kaleidoscope of f*ery" OMG that made my night brother. Couldn't stop laughing. Thanks for sharing brother, good to see you back on the track.
I mean, that’s kinda what it was. LMAO!
Glad to see you back out again . Look at a dayco belt an new tentioner . Most Lilley when you come off the gas so quick it goes loose an flings it off
I think that’s what I have is either a day I or duralast belt. I have a few regular tensioners laying around. I may try one of those instead of the manual one. Thing is this is only the 2nd time it’s thrown in in the last 2.5 years but obviously something isn’t right.
Take it an stab the gas an see how much slack goes in the one side of the belt on decell .. auto tentioner should help keep that slack up . Usually a dayco belt will hold up good. Keep me posted
Hell yeah brother ‼️
You did this Phil!😂 Thanks again brother!
@BadLuckGarage it's all you brother 💪
Check all the brackets for cracks. Could cause enough flex to throw the belt.
Great advice!
I am very interested in the next video, please include details like how often the compressor runs, does it draw the alternator down much, etc. I am leaning this direction but I do a bit of drag racing, autox, and just street driving so I need it to last longer than 6-11 seconds at a time.
I made 5 passes and the compressor never came on. I forced it on before the last pass because tank pressure was getting close to the switch point and I didn’t want it coming on and scaring me during the pass. How much draw is in the alt depends on which compressor you use. I went with an upgraded compressor meant for larger 3-5 gallon tanks and I was able to run it 4 or 5 times while testing PIDs without starting the car and the battery voltage barely dropped at all. How much it will have to run is determined by your boost strategy, how much pressure you run in the tank, and what you set your line pressure at. If you buy a 1 gallon setup that only holds 105lbs in the tank, and you regulate your line pressure to 100psi then it’s probably gonna run quit a bit. If you buy a 2 gallon setup that holds 200psi in the tank and regulate line pressure to say 60psi, then it’s not gonna run much at all. I’ll explain more in the video but basically I talked to a lot of guys running “bare minimum” setups and some guys running better setups and pieced my setup together based on what I needed it to do and the space I wanted to put it in.
Do you have anything showing how to set it up in the Holley?
Not yet. Holley has written instructions that can be downloaded from their website and that’s what I used. But I’m thinking about putting a video together for people like me who would rather just watch a video. Lol.
Dude it's coming around you will get it write and be doing new PB
Momma said theyd be days like this, and ICT will sell em to ya!!! LOL
Been playing with the Map over Dome off the compressor housing, single 3 port. Needless to say i been riding the struggle bus as well..
Onboard air should be on the truck by Thursday, and with any luck we'll also get an additional Mac valve installed in hopes of gaining more control.
Yea the 4 ports are even more eradicate than the 3 ports. I fought that 4 port and compressor reference for the last 2 years. Every little change in weather would totally change what fury cycle was needed to make X amount of boost. This new setup is a night and day difference. It just makes what you tell it too. No more, no less. 👍
How is your spark plug wire clearance with those headers?
Plenty of clearance. I actually have a video about spacing the coils and using shorter LS1 wires to get that clearance.
It’s like I keep saying brother, every single aspect of every vehicle we’ve built in this channel is covered in detail in the videos. Here’s the one showing what we did to make sure we didn’t burn wires on these headers. And no, it didn’t involve any heat boots, expensive ceramic wires, or custom made wires. 👍 th-cam.com/video/0C7HStejXuw/w-d-xo.html
Hell yeah! I need to get my ass in gear and finish my car.
Hell you’ve made more progress over the last 6 months than I have brother!
I ordered one of those fan temp switches and it activates 10 degrees lower than it should, seems they are never correct.
Yea I messaged the seller last night to either refund or send me another one. Lol
Dude, youtube apparantly unsubscribed me. Was missing all kinds of vids from you.
Does it build boost faster with on board air. I know u run twins but do u notice any difference
I’m sure it will, but I have a fairly slow boost ramp in it right now to try to keep the front end on the ground. Lol.
👍
😮
In Ricky Bobby voice:
“Transmission did real good. Everything ended up tight.”
😂😂👍👍
been missing your videos!
Sorry brother. Just have had to spend my time and money on other things the last few months. Hopefully I’m straight now though.
@@BadLuckGarage all good man I totally understand
I run a cheapy from Amazon small Viair 10000 onboard air system. To save outputs I just run one Mac valve to the top of the waste gate. With just one Mac valve it just vents to the atmosphere so the Mac valve pulses continuously during the run so uses much more air than a 2 Mac valve set up. The onboard air has plenty of volume to do this so who cares. My compressor hardly ever runs during a race day. I haven’t tried a boost ramp scenario. I just use duty cycle to hit the dome/boost I want for a run. I think the one Mac valve dome pressure scenario will have enough response for a smooth boost ramp but I have never tried it. Something to consider anyway. Good video. Looking forward to seeing datalogs and boost solenoid software stuff.
This was the same price as the Viar10000 but has a larger tank, a compressor that moves more air, and runs at 150psi instead of 105. To my understanding the single mac valve is good at putting air in but not so good at getting air out rapidly. Probably doesn’t matter if your just setting a steady pressure to maintain but might give you issues trying to precisely control a ramp or using some form of tps based modulation. I had thought about trying it that way but it was only $30 for a second mac valve so I decided to just do it the way Holley recommends the first time. And yea my compressor never kicked on. I kicked it on manually after the 4th pass because the tank was down to 135psi and the pressure switch kicks it in at 130 and I didn’t want it coming in mid pass and scaring me. 🤣 But with a 1.5 gallon tank holding at 150psi and my line pressure regulated to 60psi it barely even makes a dent in it each pass.