Why have you never appeared on my feed? Cmon youtube. This is a great vid, mind you, my work shop is a 6x8 shed, so I won't be building a drying rig anytime soon. 😂 Of now, to go binge your content. Cheers.
Thanks John. Hadn't done a finish with resin before and your presentation was very helpful. One point of interest is the use of protective gloves when using Resin. Continued use of Resin without gloves leaves you open to "Anaphylactic Shock". Please be careful.
Thank you for your comments. I actually do use gloves but didn’t in the video. Some people conflate 2 part epoxy and polyester resin. You may know there is a huge difference between them. I do use the two part epoxy which has much less health concerns.
Mr. Williams, I've got to thank you for showing this. Really impressive. Mostly though, let me thank you for sharing that microwave trick. Thant really helps. David
Wow! Spectacular video. Your creations are Beautifully done. Love the epoxy resin finish and omg the slow finishing turner rig is an engineering masterpiece. I’m new to Woodturning and it’s just a hobby for me. I have a midi lathe so my slowest speed is around 150 rpm’s. Way way too fast to do an epoxy finish so I got myself a bbq rotisserie motor and made my self a “slow turning finishing” rig/jig. Just made my biggest piece/bowl yet and the slow turner was key in getting a beautiful finish. 😊
@@normagene514 thank you for your kind remarks! Yes, can not do the finish in epoxy without rotating the work. 8 to 10 rpm is the best range I have found.
I'm a new turner and have watched countless videos on epoxy techniques. I couldn't help but think that there was a more efficient way. Sanding, wet sanding, coat, repeat ad nauseum. Thank you Mr. Williams for sharing your knowledge and amazing work.
Thank you Jack, I appreciate your comments. I wish there was an easier way but it much like custom car painting. The show quality finish doesn’t just happen. Lots of elbow grease!
Thank you John for making this video, You turn beautiful pieces and love that finish, When you think about it the $ is nothing compared to the memories that each piece has meant to generation's to pass through family and friend's Thank's to you and your wife for sharing.
In the endless quest for the perfect woodturning finish, this is by far the most fascinating I've seen. Truly remarkable, and your hollow forms are absolutely beautiful!
Thank you for the detailed description video on how to apply an epoxy finish. I’ve done a few crude versions with an ok result. But nothing like yours. Great job on the finish and you do some very fine wood Turing.
Hi John....boy oh boy, you have so much to offer. I think I initially found your channel when looking up ALS, been really sick for a long time UFC thought I might have ALS ....but my insurance ran out and so did the doctoring. That's the way it goes in the real world, no insurance means no meds and no docs. Sorry, really didn't mean to go there. I subscribed to your channel a while back after watching you do some travel mugs and the jig you created for applying and drying epoxy. I kept checking but you never got a chance to follow up on how to make something like that ....I understand, no worries .....just wanted you to know how I found you. I really appreciate your new video on the "epoxy process" .....good stuff and I picked up some good tips on how to deal with epoxy. Epoxy can cause anyone to quit woodturning and finishing if given a chance :) I see the camerman, your wife, really likes the bowl in your kitchen! It would be great to see you share more of your wisdom and knowledge when it comes to turning wood and finishes, I have a facebook group at facebook.com/groups/woodturningbasics and would be honored if you would join and participate when you can. I also have a blog/website at www.WoodTurningBasics.com where I will post your newest video, please feel free to comment or if you would like to guest post please contact me at sparat@gmail.com Finally, I really wanted to ask ....once again....if there would be any way you could do a video on how to create the contraption you made to turn your epoxy covered projects? That's probably a big, big request ....but if you could even share the source of the following: -drive shafts -electric motors -pulley sizes -the castings that house the bearings and the drive shafts -any of the other parts you might have used (even if you don't give us instructions on how to put it togehter, I might be able to duplicate what you have built) My problem is that I am not an engineer, I can work with wood and just about anything else except for metal and HVAC :) Finally #2 .....this truly was an informative video and I appreciate the time you took to make it....Thank You! Best Wishes, Scott Parat
Thank you for your interest Scott. I may do another short video being specific about the shafts, pillow blocks, pulley sizes etc a little later. Preparing for an art show and short of time now.
Hi John, I just found your video and really appreciate you sharing your techniques. I am relatively new to turning, A student of Art worth. and think your work is absolutely Beautiful.. Thanks again for sharing. Mike
michael glasner thanks for checking in on my channel. It is a lot of work doing videos and I don't do many any more but I hope you found helpful information. Tell Art I suggested coming to me after you finish his classes and I'll clean up the bad habits he taught you! 🤡 He is a good Turner and teacher.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm Thanks for getting back to me, The video is helpful and I'm gonna give it a try. On some small stuff 1st. I'll tell Art when I see him What you said Lol haha. No classes for the summer I'll see him again in September I've already signed up for classes In September. Thanks again for the video.
Hopefully you gleaned some worthwhile tips! As for the “brilliant” comment, my wife is glad to debate that! She is just a few months away from 50 years of experience with me and does know some of my less than brilliant decisions!
Great video John, always beautiful stuff. Thank you for being so generous with your ingenious techniques. You and your work have been both inspiring and greatly beneficial to my own newfound turning habit/hobby. Keep the videos coming.
John, great work and I appreciate you sharing your work. I live on the west coast too. I'm up in Tarpon Springs. Just getting back into working and turning. tks.
Thanks Peter. The wood came from suppliers in Georgia and here in the Tampa Bay area. I start with the log and cut it the way I feel will be the most interesting.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm Thank you John for your fast reply. That short vid, had an enormous change in the way I'm going to finishing my pieces. God bless you and your family. I don't need the plans of your fantastic drying apparatus the fact you gave us the rpm is enough. I'll figure it out. You didn't have to share all that information with us but thank you. Your almost as lucky as I am. A fantastic wife and friend who enjoys our passionate wood turnings. Stay safe my Apoxy Geru.
I'm impressed with every single step of the way!!! I'm only gonna say one thing....please wear a respirator because it's so dangerous. But I've learned so many interesting techniques from this video and am excited! I have a cup turner and have been wanting to experiment with putting different objects on it. Specifically wooden box pieces and pinecones. Thank you so much!!
Balke - thank you so much for your comments. The two part epoxy I use is oderless and safe. Polyester resin on the other hand would need a respirator and fast moving ventilation.
Thank you John for a great demo and fantastic result. The pieces you show look so good. Do you have to sand? If so, is it wet or dry sanding? Start at what grit? and work you way up to 5K or just decide only need one grit? Also Maguire polish has different abrasion levels. Which would you use. Lastly, if we can not build your creative drying machine, any alternatives? Can we use our lathe at the lowest (about 120 for me) speed? Thanks again. You enriched my knowledge.
I always enjoy learning others tips and tricks, u have a few things in ur shop I may add to my own ,thx ,and BTW u may want to consider getting a cheap small microwave for ur epoxy warm up trick lol , who know what kind of Vapors get left behind ,that could possibly transfer 2 ur food ,ur a bit mad lol ,I am surprised those cup haven't warped or deformed on u ,or even caught fire , anyway sorry 4 the rant ,lol u do beautiful work .
Thanks for your comments and sorry for the late reply. Being as I only heat the epoxy for 6 to 10 seconds there is no heat build up while in the microwave. However if the 8 to 12 oz being mixed stays in the plastic cup more that a couple of minutes I will have a warped deformed cup of solid epoxy.
Thanks for sharing. By the way, you remind me of Peter Graves. The actor who did the original “mission impossible “. Did you know that he was brother to Jessy Arnez who did “Gun Smock”? Beautiful hair😊
great video. I've tried epoxy finishes and had trouble finishing the bottom. I could always see the over lap of the epoxy. Now I think I understand, you sand and polish it out. Which 3m product (product number) do you use? Again great information. Many Thanks....
Because I used a sand and sealer before epoxy, one bowl turned out very good in the bottom of the inside. But the outside edge of the bowl was rough and I sanded it down to 220 grit. Do I need to sand it to bare wood or is close enough for epoxy to smooth it out? Does the inside , where it is very good, need to be sanded before the second coat?
This is awesome! Do you by chance have a video or could you make a video on how you made the turning device/station that you made? At this moment, I am sitting at my lathe and slowly hand turning my piece while the resin hardens enough to where I don’t have to keep turning it. I am using a fast Hardner however it’s not that fast!
I do not have anything on how I made the machine. It is just a series of belts and pulleys to get the rotation to 8 rpm. There are “gear head” motors that can work for small machines. I do question using a faster set epoxy. The key to the rotation is time and a self leveling epoxy. You may end up with some waves or inconsistencies with a fast set. What I use is a 2 hour set and the finish is remarkably flat. Just a thought.
Great video with lots of detail John. Not a lot of videos here that do a deep dive on this subject. I'm looking for that magic bullet for my finishes. I've tried Total Boat performance epoxy with a slow set hardener and through trial and error still have lots of defects to repair, sand and buff. Im going to try the Hi Gloss and was reading up on it - They recommend that the epoxy be clear-coated for UV protection. You don't mention that so I assume you just tell your customers to keep pieces out of direct sunlight? Tx in advance.
Thanks for your comments. The epoxy I use from Fiberglass Coatings in St. Pete is formulated for the surfboard industry. It is very clear and very hard, both characteristics are important for my work. UV is an additive I could use but it does soften the epoxy a bit and that is not good for what I do. Sinks and vases usually do not contend with direct sunlight so it has not been a problem. Again, thanks for your comments.
forgot to tell you that your bowls are some of the nicest i have seen. can you give me a suggestion on the tool you use on the inside diameter on bowl with such a small opening i have only been doing this for a few months, so i have a lot to learn.
Mike - thanks for your comments. There are a lot of different tools. Basically a “swan neck” tool is what I use. There is another video I did about making my tools. That may be a help to you. All of the hollowing tools I use are ones I have made. Some use a small carbide cutter, some use a 1/4” square tool steel cuter, and I also use the ProForme tool from WoodCut. Hope this helps. Also you should check out the AAW (American Association of Woodturners) website (woodturner.org) if you have not already. You may find a regional club in your area. They all have monthly meetings and are very helpful for new and experienced woodturners.
@@mikefields9216 where are you located Mike? I am in Tampa. Also, While I appreciate your compliment, I’m learning new things every day and enjoying the ride.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm At the moment i am in my shop in New Braunfels Texas watching another one of your videos on the nova lathe i have a nova galaxi and really like it i, have been turning now for 3 months and love it. No lessons as of yet, have been watching a lot of youtube how to videos. i have been making wood and wood/epoxy bowls. interesting we are building a plant in Tampa to recover the brown grease and make biofuels
Thanks very much, John for a great video. You briefly mentioned repairing defects and polishing. Is that something you do only on defects or the whole piece? I can imagine once you touch that surface to repair a defect, the whole surface must be dealt with to maintain a consistent look? Please consider doing a video on that process. Perhaps you already have as I'm new to your channel.
Thanks for your comments Steve. Usually the defects are taken care of in the first go round after the first three base coats. After the two finish coats the defects are usually small. With the wet sanding with 1500 to 5000 grit the high grade 3M polishing compound they will disappear with out having to do the whole piece.
Not really. No manufacturers I have researched produce such a finish. The gloss can be toned down by stopping the polishing process at 3000 grit wet sanding before going to 5000 then the polishing compound.
John - Thanks for the video. I have tried your idea on a bowl that I made. After the coats of resin, I tried to DA out the imperfections. after that I tried the 3m Compound and finishing product. The problem is that I can not get it to shine as well as the shine after the last coat no matter what I do. I worked as a body man for 45 years, so I have a background on using most of this. I used Alumilite resin. Could that be the problem? I have used all sorts of plastic cleaners, compounds and waxes to get it to shine , but nothing seems to work. Thanks
Are you getting into the DA and polishing right after the epoxy has set up? It is best to let it cure for a couple of weeks before you start wet sanding etc. I assume, having been in the automotive body business, you did the wet sanding from 800 grit to 5000 grit and then used the compounds and polishes. If you have gone thru all these step and not let it cure for 2 to 3 weeks, that may be the missing link.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm I did exactly what you state ---- but I only let it set for five days. I actually went up to 12000 grit. Thanks, I will wait for more time and then proceed. I’ve been turning for 61 years and love the resin. I appreciate you replying to my question!!
Thank you very much for making this great video. I have been looking for a video on this method of finishing for years. I do have a question. What is the temperature and humidity in your shop when doing this finish? Does the temp and humidity effect the process?
My shop is in Tampa where humidity and temperature can both be high. Humidity does not seem to be as big a factor as temperature. If the temperature goes much below 70 in my shop the epoxy can take forever to set up. There is a small heater in the shop to bring the temperature up if it is close to 70. Also, there is an AC unit which is usually running when applying epoxy. That does bring the humidity down but I can not say I have seen any effect from humidity one way or the other. Thank you for your comment and hope this helps.
um... is it safe to use to same microwave for food ? wouldn't it be better to add alcohol to thin the mixture and if you want bubble out, you can use a heat gun . was that a microwave safe cup? Eek ... but the finishing does look amazing.
Except for that third eye coming in on my forehead it has caused no problems! Seriously, I should get a microwave for the shop but heating for the few seconds barely warms the epoxy but accomplishes what is needed. The temperature only gets into the 95 degree range so nothing that causes any problems according to the manufacturer.
John, do you seal the wood with something before you apply the epoxy resin,if so what do you use, I've used sanding sealer but still get air bubbles, Thanks Pete
No, I do not use any sealer. The three coats the first day seals the wood. Also, any sealer used first does not let the color and grain show thru as well. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your kind comment. The foot/tenon is shaped so I can part it off most of the way then saw the rest of the way. Then it is cleaned up with a grinder and 3” orbital sander.
In a word - yes. The Moulthroups work is what inspired me to get into turning about 13 years ago. While in Atlanta and visiting the Signature Gallery my wife bought me one of Phillip’s pieces. I contacted Philip and let him know his work had inspired me to get into turning and asked if we could meet. He could not have been nicer and invited me to visit his shop. Philip showed me all of the areas of his shop and answered all questions. As i wanted to get into the epoxy we discussed that in detail and he was most helpful down to what RPM they needed to rotate. Turns out we graduated from high school the same year from Atlanta area schools and were going to our 50th reunion that summer.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm hi there. Thanks for replying. I am also a very abled turner out here in South Africa. More into spindle turning these days. I realy do admire the turnings of the moulthrop family. Thanks for your reply. Highly appreciated. Repects to you guys.
Well Adnan you are officially the most distant person to comment on any of my videos! Also, here is my web site: urbanwoodcreations.com Please let me know if you also have a web site, I would love to see your work.
Roger Dale Scott - gravity is not your friend with epoxy. You can do it but it will “slump” down to the bottom and you will have a thicker coating at the bottom than the sides. Rotating allows for an even finish. Good luck with your project.
In search of the absolute high gloss, I landed on your page. If you watch your interesting video, you will see that a super gloss cannot be achieved without epoxy. So I'll try it soon, but first I have the following questions: - Should an intermediate sanding be carried out between the 3 applications? With what grain size? - Should you sand up to 5,000 after the 3rd application? - Then comes the polishing, by what means? By the way, I built a similar machine for painting, but only for 1 turned object: a simple electric motor with gearbox and potentiometer for all possible speeds (faster for painting, slower for drying). At Ama ... available for around 70 Euros. I'm looking forward to your answer. Best regards from Austria. Gerhard
Gerrard - thank you for your note. As for sanding questions - I sand the raw wood just to 120grit. I do not sand between the second and third coats. After the first is tacky, an hour and a half later, I put on the second and repeat for the third. This gives a chemical bond. I do sand the 3rd coat with 120 and fill any voids that have appeared with CA glue if small or epoxy if needed. Then the two finish coats go on after that similar to the base coats. After a few days of curing I’ll wet sand any imperfections starting with 800 or 1000 and work up to 5000. Then using 3M rubbing compound with a rotary polisher and a foam pad. It will come back to the original shine. Hope this helps and good luck.
Hi John, Thanks for this usefull video, I'd like to ask what's the maximum allowed humidity of the wood if you want to cover up with epoxy or if you want to make a woodturned bowl by using epoxy. Best regards from Slovenia
Marino - thanks for your comment and questions. 12% is my target. Here in Florida wood from most any lumber yard that has been sitting around after kiln drying is usually at 12%. I have not had any separation/delaminating so that seems to work. Glad to help out. John
I'm experiencing bubbling coming from the wood turnings I've epoxied so far. I am initially applying Tung oil in 2 coats. Any idea what might be causing this bubbling as its ruining my pieces. Just learning. Thanks!
I'm very new to using epoxy on wood , have done a bit of casting in wood and get same problem. For me Its air in the wood surfacing,, been told to seal the wood with epoxy let set and sand it back . Might work to seal with shellac
Ok , have you tried warming it with a heat gun or hair dryer? This will cause bubbles to pop , I did it with a pot coaster that I made for my wife . It had a lot of bubbles, you could see them popping just in a wave while blowing. Worked well , but if you use enough heat to warm the wood then it expands the air in the wood and makes even more bubbles. People who make River tables use a propane torch
Hi John, I still have one question about the viscosity of the epoxy resin. What is the viscosity of your product? Low, medium or high viscosity? What would you recommend for turned objects? Thank you, Gerhard.
I have sent an order to Australia so yes. All of my work is on my Etsy page: Urban Wood Creations. The estimated shipping may not calculate through Etsy but glad to figure it out if you see something you like. Thanks
Why have you never appeared on my feed? Cmon youtube.
This is a great vid, mind you, my work shop is a 6x8 shed, so I won't be building a drying rig anytime soon. 😂
Of now, to go binge your content.
Cheers.
Just learned a lot about epoxy stuff
WOW!! You even made your own gears?! Sir, you are a badass!
Thanks John. Hadn't done a finish with resin before and your presentation was very helpful. One point of interest is the use of protective gloves when using Resin. Continued use of Resin without gloves leaves you open to "Anaphylactic Shock". Please be careful.
Thank you for your comments. I actually do use gloves but didn’t in the video. Some people conflate 2 part epoxy and polyester resin. You may know there is a huge difference between them. I do use the two part epoxy which has much less health concerns.
Mr. Williams,
I've got to thank you for showing this. Really impressive. Mostly though, let me thank you for sharing that microwave trick. Thant really helps.
David
Thank you David! Glad to be of help.
Wow! Spectacular video. Your creations are Beautifully done. Love the epoxy resin finish and omg the slow finishing turner rig is an engineering masterpiece.
I’m new to Woodturning and it’s just a hobby for me. I have a midi lathe so my slowest speed is around 150 rpm’s. Way way too fast to do an epoxy finish so I got myself a bbq rotisserie motor and made my self a “slow turning finishing” rig/jig. Just made my biggest piece/bowl yet and the slow turner was key in getting a beautiful finish. 😊
@@normagene514 thank you for your kind remarks! Yes, can not do the finish in epoxy without rotating the work. 8 to 10 rpm is the best range I have found.
I'm a new turner and have watched countless videos on epoxy techniques. I couldn't help but think that there was a more efficient way. Sanding, wet sanding, coat, repeat ad nauseum. Thank you Mr. Williams for sharing your knowledge and amazing work.
Thank you Jack, I appreciate your comments. I wish there was an easier way but it much like custom car painting. The show quality finish doesn’t just happen. Lots of elbow grease!
Thank you!
WOW! I learned a lot. Great video and beautiful work.
Thank you! Glad to help.
All I can say is WOW!
Thanks so much. Hope it was helpful.
Thank you John for making this video, You turn beautiful pieces and love that
finish, When you think about it the $ is nothing compared to the memories that
each piece has meant to generation's to pass through family and friend's Thank's
to you and your wife for sharing.
Thank you Cynthia! I appreciate your comments and thank you for watching.
In the endless quest for the perfect woodturning finish, this is by far the most fascinating I've seen. Truly remarkable, and your hollow forms are absolutely beautiful!
Thank you Steve. I appreciate your thoughts!
Thank you for the detailed description video on how to apply an epoxy finish. I’ve done a few crude versions with an ok result. But nothing like yours. Great job on the finish and you do some very fine wood Turing.
Thank you!
What absolutely beautiful pieces, and your setup has helped me with my own wood turning and epoxy using. Thank you for a great educational video.
Thanks, glad I could pass along some helpful information!
Great finishing job.
Thank you
@@jjwpod thank you
Wonderful hollow work John and wonderful Idia of finishing with Epoxy .
Came out amazing glossy finish 👍👍
I was curious how that would look. Gonna have to try it now. Love the set up by the way.
Hi John....boy oh boy, you have so much to offer. I think I initially found your channel when looking up ALS, been really sick for a long time UFC thought I might have ALS ....but my insurance ran out and so did the doctoring. That's the way it goes in the real world, no insurance means no meds and no docs.
Sorry, really didn't mean to go there.
I subscribed to your channel a while back after watching you do some travel mugs and the jig you created for applying and drying epoxy. I kept checking but you never got a chance to follow up on how to make something like that ....I understand, no worries .....just wanted you to know how I found you.
I really appreciate your new video on the "epoxy process" .....good stuff and I picked up some good tips on how to deal with epoxy. Epoxy can cause anyone to quit woodturning and finishing if given a chance :)
I see the camerman, your wife, really likes the bowl in your kitchen!
It would be great to see you share more of your wisdom and knowledge when it comes to turning wood and finishes, I have a facebook group at facebook.com/groups/woodturningbasics and would be honored if you would join and participate when you can. I also have a blog/website at www.WoodTurningBasics.com where I will post your newest video, please feel free to comment or if you would like to guest post please contact me at sparat@gmail.com
Finally, I really wanted to ask ....once again....if there would be any way you could do a video on how to create the contraption you made to turn your epoxy covered projects? That's probably a big, big request ....but if you could even share the source of the following:
-drive shafts
-electric motors
-pulley sizes
-the castings that house the bearings and the drive shafts
-any of the other parts you might have used (even if you don't give us instructions on how to put it togehter, I might be able to duplicate what you have built)
My problem is that I am not an engineer, I can work with wood and just about anything else except for metal and HVAC :)
Finally #2 .....this truly was an informative video and I appreciate the time you took to make it....Thank You!
Best Wishes,
Scott Parat
Thank you for your interest Scott. I may do another short video being specific about the shafts, pillow blocks, pulley sizes etc a little later. Preparing for an art show and short of time now.
Hi John, I just found your video and really appreciate you sharing your techniques. I am relatively new to turning, A student of Art worth. and think your work is absolutely Beautiful..
Thanks again for sharing.
Mike
michael glasner thanks for checking in on my channel. It is a lot of work doing videos and I don't do many any more but I hope you found helpful information. Tell Art I suggested coming to me after you finish his classes and I'll clean up the bad habits he taught you! 🤡 He is a good Turner and teacher.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm Thanks for getting back to me, The video is helpful and I'm gonna give it a try. On some small stuff 1st.
I'll tell Art when I see him What you said Lol haha.
No classes for the summer I'll see him again in September I've already signed up for classes In September. Thanks again for the video.
Thank you, great information. Beautiful work!
Thank you Pablo, glad you enjoyed the video.
Beautiful work, amazing setup and great teacher 👍
Thank you! Still learning though!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!! you are brilliant!!
Hopefully you gleaned some worthwhile tips! As for the “brilliant” comment, my wife is glad to debate that! She is just a few months away from 50 years of experience with me and does know some of my less than brilliant decisions!
Great work John!! Thanks for all the info looks really cool.
thank you really great information i will set something up to rotate my bowls.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks John and very nice work and finish process. I really like your multi slow turning machine.
Thanks! I appreciate you comment and checking out my video.
Great video John, always beautiful stuff. Thank you for being so generous with your ingenious techniques. You and your work have been both inspiring and greatly beneficial to my own newfound turning habit/hobby. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you for making the great video and sharing your skills - watching from New Zealand.
Thanks for your kind comment. I’d love to visit New Zeland at least my lathe has been there! :)
Wow, John. That my friend is absolutely Fantastic!! I have got to try that finish. Great video presentation too! Take care.
Thanks Stephen, this is how I am finishing most of my work these days. Sets me apart at the art shows. Hope to see you soon.
Great ideas and beautiful work.
Thank you Lou.
Thank you for sharing your skills
Thank you!
John, great work and I appreciate you sharing your work. I live on the west coast too. I'm up in Tarpon Springs. Just getting back into working and turning. tks.
Sorry for the long delay in responding. Thank you so much for your comments and best of luck getting back into a great past time.
Those are some amazing bowls very nice job.
Thank you.
Great video thanks for sharing. A great craftsman
Cracking stuff made me wana get back in my workshop and create something. 😊
Very good video thank you for sharing. I love youre work... very nice looking wood 👍
Thanks Peter. The wood came from suppliers in Georgia and here in the Tampa Bay area. I start with the log and cut it the way I feel will be the most interesting.
John, I've just came across to your fantastic channel. You're a star 🌟 star 🌟.
Thank you for the kind remarks Seamus. Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Stay safe.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm
Thank you John for your fast reply. That short vid, had an enormous change in the way I'm going to finishing my pieces. God bless you and your family. I don't need the plans of your fantastic drying apparatus the fact you gave us the rpm is enough.
I'll figure it out.
You didn't have to share all that information with us but thank you. Your almost as lucky as I am. A fantastic wife and friend who enjoys our passionate wood turnings. Stay safe my Apoxy Geru.
Please send pictures when you get it built. Where are you located?
I'm impressed with every single step of the way!!! I'm only gonna say one thing....please wear a respirator because it's so dangerous. But I've learned so many interesting techniques from this video and am excited! I have a cup turner and have been wanting to experiment with putting different objects on it. Specifically wooden box pieces and pinecones. Thank you so much!!
Balke - thank you so much for your comments. The two part epoxy I use is oderless and safe. Polyester resin on the other hand would need a respirator and fast moving ventilation.
Beautiful
I didn't realize you had a channel. Good job.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Sweet setup...
Thanks
Thanks for sharing
Thank you for your service Mike!!! And thank you for your comment.
Am always looking for tips in my epoxy coating. Thanks...gotta go get a microwave now....
Thank you John for a great demo and fantastic result. The pieces you show look so good. Do you have to sand? If so, is it wet or dry sanding? Start at what grit? and work you way up to 5K or just decide only need one grit? Also Maguire polish has different abrasion levels. Which would you use. Lastly, if we can not build your creative drying machine, any alternatives? Can we use our lathe at the lowest (about 120 for me) speed? Thanks again. You enriched my knowledge.
I always enjoy learning others tips and tricks, u have a few things in ur shop I may add to my own ,thx ,and BTW u may want to consider getting a cheap small microwave for ur epoxy warm up trick lol , who know what kind of Vapors get left behind ,that could possibly transfer 2 ur food ,ur a bit mad lol ,I am surprised those cup haven't warped or deformed on u ,or even caught fire , anyway sorry 4 the rant ,lol u do beautiful work .
Thanks for your comments and sorry for the late reply. Being as I only heat the epoxy for 6 to 10 seconds there is no heat build up while in the microwave. However if the 8 to 12 oz being mixed stays in the plastic cup more that a couple of minutes I will have a warped deformed cup of solid epoxy.
Excellent video John..full view/Like/Sub
All the best
Yiannis (Athens Greece)
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing. By the way, you remind me of Peter Graves. The actor who did the original “mission impossible “.
Did you know that he was brother to Jessy Arnez who did “Gun Smock”? Beautiful hair😊
great video. I've tried epoxy finishes and had trouble finishing the bottom. I could always see the over lap of the epoxy. Now I think I understand, you sand and polish it out. Which 3m product (product number) do you use? Again great information. Many Thanks....
Because I used a sand and sealer before epoxy, one bowl turned out very good in the bottom of the inside. But the outside edge of the bowl was rough and I sanded it down to 220 grit. Do I need to sand it to bare wood or is close enough for epoxy to smooth it out?
Does the inside , where it is very good, need to be sanded before the second coat?
Thanks for the video. Do you have plans on how to make your drying rig?
Thanks for your comment. I do not have plans for the “drying rig”. The key is getting the rotations to between 8 to 10.
This is awesome! Do you by chance have a video or could you make a video on how you made the turning device/station that you made? At this moment, I am sitting at my lathe and slowly hand turning my piece while the resin hardens enough to where I don’t have to keep turning it. I am using a fast Hardner however it’s not that fast!
I do not have anything on how I made the machine. It is just a series of belts and pulleys to get the rotation to 8 rpm. There are “gear head” motors that can work for small machines. I do question using a faster set epoxy. The key to the rotation is time and a self leveling epoxy. You may end up with some waves or inconsistencies with a fast set. What I use is a 2 hour set and the finish is remarkably flat. Just a thought.
Great video with lots of detail John. Not a lot of videos here that do a deep dive on this subject. I'm looking for that magic bullet for my finishes. I've tried Total Boat performance epoxy with a slow set hardener and through trial and error still have lots of defects to repair, sand and buff. Im going to try the Hi Gloss and was reading up on it - They recommend that the epoxy be clear-coated for UV protection. You don't mention that so I assume you just tell your customers to keep pieces out of direct sunlight? Tx in advance.
Thanks for your comments. The epoxy I use from Fiberglass Coatings in St. Pete is formulated for the surfboard industry. It is very clear and very hard, both characteristics are important for my work. UV is an additive I could use but it does soften the epoxy a bit and that is not good for what I do. Sinks and vases usually do not contend with direct sunlight so it has not been a problem. Again, thanks for your comments.
forgot to tell you that your bowls are some of the nicest i have seen. can you give me a suggestion on the tool you use on the inside diameter on bowl with such a small opening i have only been doing this for a few months, so i have a lot to learn.
Mike - thanks for your comments. There are a lot of different tools. Basically a “swan neck” tool is what I use. There is another video I did about making my tools. That may be a help to you. All of the hollowing tools I use are ones I have made. Some use a small carbide cutter, some use a 1/4” square tool steel cuter, and I also use the ProForme tool from WoodCut. Hope this helps. Also you should check out the AAW (American Association of Woodturners) website (woodturner.org) if you have not already. You may find a regional club in your area. They all have monthly meetings and are very helpful for new and experienced woodturners.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm thank you so much. i do enjoy your work i hope to be that good someday.
@@mikefields9216 where are you located Mike? I am in Tampa. Also, While I appreciate your compliment, I’m learning new things every day and enjoying the ride.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm At the moment i am in my shop in New Braunfels Texas watching another one of your videos on the nova lathe i have a nova galaxi and really like it i, have been turning now for 3 months and love it. No lessons as of yet, have been watching a lot of youtube how to videos. i have been making wood and wood/epoxy bowls. interesting we are building a plant in Tampa to recover the brown grease and make biofuels
Thanks very much, John for a great video. You briefly mentioned repairing defects and polishing. Is that something you do only on defects or the whole piece? I can imagine once you touch that surface to repair a defect, the whole surface must be dealt with to maintain a consistent look? Please consider doing a video on that process. Perhaps you already have as I'm new to your channel.
Thanks for your comments Steve. Usually the defects are taken care of in the first go round after the first three base coats. After the two finish coats the defects are usually small. With the wet sanding with 1500 to 5000 grit the high grade 3M polishing compound they will disappear with out having to do the whole piece.
Wow, Beautiful! Is it possible to do a matte finish?
Not really. No manufacturers I have researched produce such a finish. The gloss can be toned down by stopping the polishing process at 3000 grit wet sanding before going to 5000 then the polishing compound.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm thank you for your reply 👍🏻
John - Thanks for the video. I have tried your idea on a bowl that I made. After the coats of resin, I tried to DA out the imperfections. after that I tried the 3m Compound and finishing product. The problem is that I can not get it to shine as well as the shine after the last coat no matter what I do. I worked as a body man for 45 years, so I have a background on using most of this. I used Alumilite resin. Could that be the problem? I have used all sorts of plastic cleaners, compounds and waxes to get it to shine , but nothing seems to work. Thanks
Are you getting into the DA and polishing right after the epoxy has set up? It is best to let it cure for a couple of weeks before you start wet sanding etc. I assume, having been in the automotive body business, you did the wet sanding from 800 grit to 5000 grit and then used the compounds and polishes. If you have gone thru all these step and not let it cure for 2 to 3 weeks, that may be the missing link.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm I did exactly what you state ---- but I only let it set for five days. I actually went up to 12000 grit. Thanks, I will wait for more time and then proceed. I’ve been turning for 61 years and love the resin. I appreciate you replying to my question!!
Thank you very much for making this great video. I have been looking for a video on this method of finishing for years. I do have a question. What is the temperature and humidity in your shop when doing this finish? Does the temp and humidity effect the process?
My shop is in Tampa where humidity and temperature can both be high. Humidity does not seem to be as big a factor as temperature. If the temperature goes much below 70 in my shop the epoxy can take forever to set up. There is a small heater in the shop to bring the temperature up if it is close to 70. Also, there is an AC unit which is usually running when applying epoxy. That does bring the humidity down but I can not say I have seen any effect from humidity one way or the other. Thank you for your comment and hope this helps.
um... is it safe to use to same microwave for food ? wouldn't it be better to add alcohol to thin the mixture and if you want bubble out, you can use a heat gun . was that a microwave safe cup? Eek ... but the finishing does look amazing.
Except for that third eye coming in on my forehead it has caused no problems! Seriously, I should get a microwave for the shop but heating for the few seconds barely warms the epoxy but accomplishes what is needed. The temperature only gets into the 95 degree range so nothing that causes any problems according to the manufacturer.
John, do you seal the wood with something before you apply the epoxy resin,if so what do you use, I've used sanding sealer but still get air bubbles,
Thanks Pete
What is your total process? How many coats? No, I do not use anything except the epoxy.
John, do you have any plans available for the drying unit you built?
Greatness
Do you use any sand and sealer before epoxy?
I used a lacquer base and made a huge mess. Your suggestions.
No, I do not use any sealer. The three coats the first day seals the wood. Also, any sealer used first does not let the color and grain show thru as well. Thanks for watching.
Amazing work. How do you take the foot off when the inside and outside are dry?
Thanks for your kind comment. The foot/tenon is shaped so I can part it off most of the way then saw the rest of the way. Then it is cleaned up with a grinder and 3” orbital sander.
The Moulthrop family uses the same system for slowly drying their pieces. Same slow gearing turning system. Question is did you copy from them?
In a word - yes. The Moulthroups work is what inspired me to get into turning about 13 years ago. While in Atlanta and visiting the Signature Gallery my wife bought me one of Phillip’s pieces. I contacted Philip and let him know his work had inspired me to get into turning and asked if we could meet. He could not have been nicer and invited me to visit his shop. Philip showed me all of the areas of his shop and answered all questions. As i wanted to get into the epoxy we discussed that in detail and he was most helpful down to what RPM they needed to rotate. Turns out we graduated from high school the same year from Atlanta area schools and were going to our 50th reunion that summer.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm hi there. Thanks for replying. I am also a very abled turner out here in South Africa. More into spindle turning these days. I realy do admire the turnings of the moulthrop family. Thanks for your reply. Highly appreciated. Repects to you guys.
Well Adnan you are officially the most distant person to comment on any of my videos! Also, here is my web site: urbanwoodcreations.com Please let me know if you also have a web site, I would love to see your work.
I want to waterproof the inside of a bowl. Do I have to spin the bowl as it drys or can I just let it set on the table?
Roger Dale Scott - gravity is not your friend with epoxy. You can do it but it will “slump” down to the bottom and you will have a thicker coating at the bottom than the sides. Rotating allows for an even finish. Good luck with your project.
In search of the absolute high gloss, I landed on your page. If you watch your interesting video, you will see that a super gloss cannot be achieved without epoxy. So I'll try it soon, but first I have the following questions:
- Should an intermediate sanding be carried out between the 3 applications? With what grain size?
- Should you sand up to 5,000 after the 3rd application?
- Then comes the polishing, by what means?
By the way, I built a similar machine for painting, but only for 1 turned object: a simple electric motor with gearbox and potentiometer for all possible speeds (faster for painting, slower for drying). At Ama ... available for around 70 Euros.
I'm looking forward to your answer. Best regards from Austria.
Gerhard
Gerrard - thank you for your note. As for sanding questions - I sand the raw wood just to 120grit. I do not sand between the second and third coats. After the first is tacky, an hour and a half later, I put on the second and repeat for the third. This gives a chemical bond. I do sand the 3rd coat with 120 and fill any voids that have appeared with CA glue if small or epoxy if needed. Then the two finish coats go on after that similar to the base coats. After a few days of curing I’ll wet sand any imperfections starting with 800 or 1000 and work up to 5000. Then using 3M rubbing compound with a rotary polisher and a foam pad. It will come back to the original shine. Hope this helps and good luck.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm Thank you very much, John, for the quick reply. Gerhard
Hi John, Thanks for this usefull video, I'd like to ask what's the maximum allowed humidity of the wood if you want to cover up with epoxy or if you want to make a woodturned bowl by using epoxy. Best regards from Slovenia
Marino - thanks for your comment and questions. 12% is my target. Here in Florida wood from most any lumber yard that has been sitting around after kiln drying is usually at 12%. I have not had any separation/delaminating so that seems to work. Glad to help out. John
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm Thank you very much. Greetings
I have some big old vas with por
How Can i want to turn into colourr full lamp ?
Are you asking how to turn a vase into a lamp?
Question: What type and where do you get the plastic that you use to wrap around a piece of wood in order to pour resin and then turn?
Thanks for watching! It is just visqueen from HD.
I'm experiencing bubbling coming from the wood turnings I've epoxied so far. I am initially applying Tung oil in 2 coats. Any idea what might be causing this bubbling as its ruining my pieces. Just learning. Thanks!
I'm very new to using epoxy on wood , have done a bit of casting in wood and get same problem. For me Its air in the wood surfacing,, been told to seal the wood with epoxy let set and sand it back . Might work to seal with shellac
@@lesgallivan4159 Thx for the tips. I have sealed with several coats of sanding sealer and a couple coats of shellac and still get air seeping.
Ok , have you tried warming it with a heat gun or hair dryer? This will cause bubbles to pop , I did it with a pot coaster that I made for my wife . It had a lot of bubbles, you could see them popping just in a wave while blowing. Worked well , but if you use enough heat to warm the wood then it expands the air in the wood and makes even more bubbles. People who make River tables use a propane torch
Hi John,
I still have one question about the viscosity of the epoxy resin. What is the viscosity of your product? Low, medium or high viscosity? What would you recommend for turned objects? Thank you, Gerhard.
The first coat, when heated in the microwave, becomes almost thin as water, almost. The remaining are similar to latex paint.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm Many thanks, John!
Do you have a website? How much for 1 vase
My web site is UrbanWoodCreations.com and that will take you to my Etsy store which shows all my available work.
do you send your bowls to Australia
I have sent an order to Australia so yes. All of my work is on my Etsy page: Urban Wood Creations. The estimated shipping may not calculate through Etsy but glad to figure it out if you see something you like. Thanks
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm thanks i will take a look your work is amazing
Thank you! Feel free to use my email: john@urbanwoodcreations.com and you may enjoy my website as well.
WWW.urban wood creations.com
WWW.urbanwoodcreations.com
why do you do the inside?
So you can put water and cut flowers in them. Also it restricts wood movement should a piece end up in a much dryer or wetter climate.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm are you applying over sanding sealer or oil for these or depends on the piece?
No sanding sealer or other finish. I tried that but straight on with epoxy brings our color best in my opinion.
@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm does it do a decent job hding tear out? filling the gaps? didnt see any on your pieces.
@@dionlee3920 no not really, in most cases it will amplify it.
Can I be you when I grow up?
You might want to wait and see what happens when I grow up! Thanks for you comment!
Pin nail your finger often? Haha😅
Not sure what you mean but fingers are ok. ???