😎👍🇺🇲 (For the algorithm) Proud owner of a 93 ZX11 D. I really dreaded doing a jet change on the ZX. The bike is a one owner and completely stock (besides a tinted screen and raiser bars). After a couple of jet changes. I had the whole process down to about 15 minutes. That's from parking it, stripping it and riding it. Including pulling the bank. Not including final cynic. Cheers from the PNW Seattle WA area 🤘
I love this video so much. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 1989 zx10 right now so this vid is an amazing find for me in the hours I'm not working on it.
I just did my first set of CVK carbs on a 2007 Triumph Bonneville I picked up. It was the first time I've had to split a rack of carbs. I needed to replace one of the o-rings on a fuel connector joint. I was a little nervous, but it all went back together ok. The How To Wrench youtube channel was very helpful. This video would have been good to watch as well. The Bonneville only has 2 carbs, but they're very similar to those. The bike had sat for 4 years with gas in it, so the carbs were all gummed up.
Cool! Nice job. The key to carb rack splitting regardless of how many carbs are racked, is organization. Keeping parts organized AND keeping reference material (i.e. pictures, notes) organized as well. Cheers.
Visually nicely kept machine! Just did 2 ZZR 600 carbs kind of 3 times over. Looking at this vid I feel I dind't do too badly. I missed the corrosion on the T-pieces. Bike is still not running nicely, will do them again soon. I struggled with the bolts of the L-bar to disengage the 4 carbs as well, I didn't think of heating them up. Used combination of grips together with a screw driver, that worked best. I cut a straight line for a flat screwdriver on 2 of them. Bitches, those 8 screws! Note that there are always only 3 screws on the throttle bar. Don't know why, but that's how it is! I used standard O-rings from chinese website, just a range of O-rings to cover what is required on those carbs. The box of +/-200rings (most of them useless of course) cost just as much as 2 from the OEM website. The box should cover rebuilding 3-4 carb rebuilds...
Nice video! Working on carburetors is so Zen, kind of a black art, you have to have a bag of tricks along with tools and experience. Side bar note, when your de-racking them, have a perfectly quiet garage, ie no radio, no fan blowing. This way, when one of those little bastard springs decide to go AWOL, you got an idea of where it landed. 😁.
The Big 10 was my first road bike, I passed my test at 12.30pm, and by 1.30pm I was out on the Big Girl white knuckled trying to hang on it was so fast, but after a few months I totally fell in love with mine, I have had a ZX7r Frrom new I bought it in 2002 and I have just bought a ZZR1100 I got it cheap and it is like brand new. Great show chap keep them coming and Hi from Scotland.
I appreciate your videos and your high level explanation of the carbs. A lot of old forum and picture links for these older bikes links are dead. It would have been very helpful if you could have showed us the struggle with getting the air box back on, which vacuum lines to tap into for the carb sync, jet sizes for stock air box with aftermarket exhaust, how many turns out for air/fuel mixture screws, setting the idle. That's the good stuff but make the videos the way you like it.
Can’t fit everything unfortunately. The mains are 128 and slows are 38. The vacuum ports are self explanatory, they’re caps on nipples on each carb holder. Can’t miss them. Easily accessible. This air box isn’t as bad as others, as I said. But if you start the band springs on the underside before installing, it helps getting them into place with a 90 degree pick tool. Fuel screws were and are at 2-1/2 turns but in this setup, 2-3/4 may be better. If I include every last detail I get comments opposing yours that there’s too much of that so can’t please everyone. Thanks for watching.
Fantastic work. The engine sounds really good. I also love the alloy fuel connectors you turned up. I haven’t seen these before and they look just the job I would like these myself.
My zx10 used to start running bad every year or so. It was the tappet clearance. It used to lose clearance on the intake valves. Ran bad at low revs but was ok up top. I cured it by putting a Toyota 1500 turbo diesel car engine in it...
very nice video! I was wondering how you removed that float seat, you say they are not pressed in, but i dont see any thread on them. I have a gpx 600, but never bothered to remove them on my carbs since i thought they were pressed in.
Pressed in = permanent and yes there are some like that. These on the Keihin’s are pushed in, then kept in place by a screw that’s a flange head which contacts the float seat and holds it in place. I don’t know off hand how your 600 carbs are set up in regards to floats.
I understand it now. Then they were indeed pressed in on my carbs, since nothing else was holding them in place. Thnx for the respond, like the content of the channel a lot@@MotoRestoFL
I just got a colonoscopy week ago Monday, however, if I had owned a ZX-14, I wouldn't have needed one... that thing would have made me shite my pants, dang rocket ship... lol.. cheers.
Hey I have a 2001 zx1100d I’m restoring, I can’t seem to find where to plug in the tank to supply gas to the engine, from what I saw in the video it looks like it’s in the middle on the bottom of the carb, am I seeing that correct, if not can you give a quick response to where I can find it
I've owned my 90 zx10 since 96. The bogging down/flooding issue is usually caused by a carb float needle that fails intermittently. If he rode it like that for a while, it would he a good idea to change the oil.
Edit: well if you mean float valves that wear out and bypass, yes. I misread your comment. Again, this was not the case on these carbs though I usually replace them because I keep them in stock.
@MotoRestoFL the needle on the end of the float can fail intermittently. I've had it happen a few times, on the #1 and #2 carbs. One sign that it is happening, is the symptom this owner had, and the other is a hydrolocked motor while trying to start. That's really fun to deal with, especially if it bends a rod and locks the motor up.
I havw to ask for a bit og help, bcuz i physically cant find anything aht tjese older bikes. I have a 86 ninja zx10r that i was wkdnering how r all the vaccume nd fuel lines rouyed?
I'm not entirely sure on that bike. If it's the same as on the '89, it's easy. Fuel goes from the tank fuel cock to the filter, then to the pump, then to the carbs. It's super easy. The only vacuum lines unless it's a CA model, maybe go to an air valve of some sort up front above the head cover, but I am not sure, my '89 somebody before me deleted and binned that probably long ago. You have to pick up a Clymer manual or factory service manual or both, that's where I'd suggest getting that info, generally they have cable and hose routing diagrams.
No, but I have the originals bagged up if you wanted me to make you some I could copy them. I can’t exactly remember any mods I made but I guess I could watch the video. I need to catalog the drawings of parts I made, I’m really bad about that because I don’t have any CAD software and I can’t afford a suite.
Please email me at motorestofl@gmail.com. I think I found the drawing I used on them yesterday. You can buy the O-Rings OEM, if you want those as well from my end, you need to let me know because I'd have to order them. Just email me and we'll go from there. Cheers.
When I first got this one it was a mess also and took about a year to get it up to where it was when sold. Much luck. Not sure how much I can help but I’ll try if you need something specific. Cheers.
😎👍🇺🇲
(For the algorithm)
Proud owner of a 93 ZX11 D.
I really dreaded doing a jet change on the ZX. The bike is a one owner and completely stock (besides a tinted screen and raiser bars).
After a couple of jet changes. I had the whole process down to about 15 minutes. That's from parking it, stripping it and riding it. Including pulling the bank.
Not including final cynic.
Cheers from the PNW Seattle WA area 🤘
Very well done mr Spielberg.
Love this content! Owned an 88 ZX10, rode it all over North America, 200000 km in 5 summers of riding. Was a fantastic motorcycle.
I love this video so much. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 1989 zx10 right now so this vid is an amazing find for me in the hours I'm not working on it.
Just bought an 88 and can agree the quality alone of this vid helps me so much with my carb rebuild lol
I just did my first set of CVK carbs on a 2007 Triumph Bonneville I picked up. It was the first time I've had to split a rack of carbs. I needed to replace one of the o-rings on a fuel connector joint. I was a little nervous, but it all went back together ok. The How To Wrench youtube channel was very helpful. This video would have been good to watch as well. The Bonneville only has 2 carbs, but they're very similar to those. The bike had sat for 4 years with gas in it, so the carbs were all gummed up.
Cool! Nice job. The key to carb rack splitting regardless of how many carbs are racked, is organization. Keeping parts organized AND keeping reference material (i.e. pictures, notes) organized as well. Cheers.
Visually nicely kept machine!
Just did 2 ZZR 600 carbs kind of 3 times over. Looking at this vid I feel I dind't do too badly. I missed the corrosion on the T-pieces. Bike is still not running nicely, will do them again soon.
I struggled with the bolts of the L-bar to disengage the 4 carbs as well, I didn't think of heating them up. Used combination of grips together with a screw driver, that worked best. I cut a straight line for a flat screwdriver on 2 of them. Bitches, those 8 screws!
Note that there are always only 3 screws on the throttle bar. Don't know why, but that's how it is!
I used standard O-rings from chinese website, just a range of O-rings to cover what is required on those carbs. The box of +/-200rings (most of them useless of course) cost just as much as 2 from the OEM website. The box should cover rebuilding 3-4 carb rebuilds...
Just picked one up with carb issues. This will help me. Thank you :)
Nice video! Working on carburetors is so Zen, kind of a black art, you have to have a bag of tricks along with tools and experience. Side bar note, when your de-racking them, have a perfectly quiet garage, ie no radio, no fan blowing. This way, when one of those little bastard springs decide to go AWOL, you got an idea of where it landed. 😁.
Good point.
Enjoyed the video Tom. Nice breakdown on the carbs. WORK/RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
The Big 10 was my first road bike, I passed my test at 12.30pm, and by 1.30pm I was out on the Big Girl white knuckled trying to hang on it was so fast, but after a few months I totally fell in love with mine, I have had a ZX7r Frrom new I bought it in 2002 and I have just bought a ZZR1100 I got it cheap and it is like brand new. Great show chap keep them coming and Hi from Scotland.
I just got a 88 zx10 project bike. Thanks
I appreciate your videos and your high level explanation of the carbs. A lot of old forum and picture links for these older bikes links are dead. It would have been very helpful if you could have showed us the struggle with getting the air box back on, which vacuum lines to tap into for the carb sync, jet sizes for stock air box with aftermarket exhaust, how many turns out for air/fuel mixture screws, setting the idle. That's the good stuff but make the videos the way you like it.
Can’t fit everything unfortunately. The mains are 128 and slows are 38. The vacuum ports are self explanatory, they’re caps on nipples on each carb holder. Can’t miss them. Easily accessible. This air box isn’t as bad as others, as I said. But if you start the band springs on the underside before installing, it helps getting them into place with a 90 degree pick tool. Fuel screws were and are at 2-1/2 turns but in this setup, 2-3/4 may be better. If I include every last detail I get comments opposing yours that there’s too much of that so can’t please everyone. Thanks for watching.
@@MotoRestoFL thanks for the info and your explanation completely make sense. I appreciate your channel
Well done sir.
Great work. Those bikes are awesome .
Nice Job on the carbs, sounds great.
Fantastic work.
The engine sounds really good.
I also love the alloy fuel connectors you turned up.
I haven’t seen these before and they look just the job I would like these myself.
Can get them for a few Mikuni’s I know. Possibly others.
Tom needs to sell these. I’m sure there’s a market for them
@@johnrowley4993 I’d do them on a case by case basis.
Love this video, idk anything about carberated bikes but this helped me understand so much. Thank you 🙏
Lovely bike, enjoyed the video. Cheers😊
You have the patience of Job 😂 As always nice job 👍
Loved the Darth Vader vibe
My zx10 used to start running bad every year or so. It was the tappet clearance. It used to lose clearance on the intake valves. Ran bad at low revs but was ok up top. I cured it by putting a Toyota 1500 turbo diesel car engine in it...
No kidding? lol.
Just looking for a gearbox.@@MotoRestoFL
Great job
very nice video! I was wondering how you removed that float seat, you say they are not pressed in, but i dont see any thread on them. I have a gpx 600, but never bothered to remove them on my carbs since i thought they were pressed in.
Pressed in = permanent and yes there are some like that. These on the Keihin’s are pushed in, then kept in place by a screw that’s a flange head which contacts the float seat and holds it in place. I don’t know off hand how your 600 carbs are set up in regards to floats.
I understand it now. Then they were indeed pressed in on my carbs, since nothing else was holding them in place. Thnx for the respond, like the content of the channel a lot@@MotoRestoFL
As to 1988 zx10 Can you please share the picture of igniter wires , as to which colour corresponds to which pin of igniter.
Amazing, I own a 17 zx 10 RR and 06 zx 14,
I just got a colonoscopy week ago Monday, however, if I had owned a ZX-14, I wouldn't have needed one... that thing would have made me shite my pants, dang rocket ship... lol.. cheers.
Hey I have a 2001 zx1100d I’m restoring, I can’t seem to find where to plug in the tank to supply gas to the engine, from what I saw in the video it looks like it’s in the middle on the bottom of the carb, am I seeing that correct, if not can you give a quick response to where I can find it
Yes. There’s a fuel tee. Bottom of the carbs. The tees towards the top are vents.
I've owned my 90 zx10 since 96. The bogging down/flooding issue is usually caused by a carb float needle that fails intermittently. If he rode it like that for a while, it would he a good idea to change the oil.
I’ve never seen a float valve fail besides one gunked up. These carbs were contaminated with old fuel.
Edit: well if you mean float valves that wear out and bypass, yes. I misread your comment. Again, this was not the case on these carbs though I usually replace them because I keep them in stock.
@MotoRestoFL the needle on the end of the float can fail intermittently. I've had it happen a few times, on the #1 and #2 carbs. One sign that it is happening, is the symptom this owner had, and the other is a hydrolocked motor while trying to start. That's really fun to deal with, especially if it bends a rod and locks the motor up.
@@livingroomguitarist7 yes absolutely correct. I misread your original comment. Thanks.
where are you based out of? do you still work on bikes?
I have an 1988 ZX10. Tab good 3 years ago. Needs carb work. What would you charge for something like you just did in the video? You in Colorado?
Florida. Email me. motorestofl@gmail.com
I havw to ask for a bit og help, bcuz i physically cant find anything aht tjese older bikes. I have a 86 ninja zx10r that i was wkdnering how r all the vaccume nd fuel lines rouyed?
I'm not entirely sure on that bike. If it's the same as on the '89, it's easy. Fuel goes from the tank fuel cock to the filter, then to the pump, then to the carbs. It's super easy. The only vacuum lines unless it's a CA model, maybe go to an air valve of some sort up front above the head cover, but I am not sure, my '89 somebody before me deleted and binned that probably long ago. You have to pick up a Clymer manual or factory service manual or both, that's where I'd suggest getting that info, generally they have cable and hose routing diagrams.
Is the petcock on/off or on/reserve? I recently bought a Hurricane1k and l think it's like that.
Yea. Exactly. Because it’s a fuel pump bike. It’d be really hard to gravity flood the carbs.
Any chance you have an extra set of those aluminum fuel joints and fuel T?
No, but I have the originals bagged up if you wanted me to make you some I could copy them. I can’t exactly remember any mods I made but I guess I could watch the video. I need to catalog the drawings of parts I made, I’m really bad about that because I don’t have any CAD software and I can’t afford a suite.
@@MotoRestoFL If you could make some copies that would be amazing. I essentially have the same situation with my '89 ZX-10.
Please email me at motorestofl@gmail.com. I think I found the drawing I used on them yesterday. You can buy the O-Rings OEM, if you want those as well from my end, you need to let me know because I'd have to order them. Just email me and we'll go from there. Cheers.
Ilike your work. Very detailed. New Sub, Here.
zx10s are nice
I've just been gifted a basket case ZX10....help!!😮
When I first got this one it was a mess also and took about a year to get it up to where it was when sold. Much luck. Not sure how much I can help but I’ll try if you need something specific. Cheers.
Great video but you cut the part that I wanted to see
What’d I leave out?