Just a small but important suggestion when you are cutting threads. You want to keep the tap in the hole your threading until you get at least one to two turns of threads cut. Removing the tap after the first 1/2 to 1 turn is really really risky and you could very easily cross thread the hole you are threading like you mentioned. And you don't "have" to remove the tap to clean out the chips. When you reverse and go back a 1/4 to 1/2 turn that breaks the chip off and the flutes let it drop out the bottom. I personally don't like removing the tap until I've cut all the threads, I don't like taking the risk of cross threading. But you did a good job. I liked how you used compressed air to blow out the chips. Very classy.
So far, so good. No signs of it wearing out or coming loose, and this gun is a go-to during hunting season, so it spends a fair amount of time bouncing around in a UTV and being knocked into the odd tree branch. No idea on how many rounds fired, but it's probably around 100. Mostly birdshot, but some buckshot too. I'm not looking to torture test the thing, but it gets a lot of good, honest use and has held up to my standards thus far.
Finger tight is enough. I put one in and thought it a good idea to tighten the bead with pliers and broke the bead right off. That one was soft. So now all that’s left is the brass threads.
Everything's well, but... If you want to keep your bead sight rock solid forever, you need to clean and throughly degraese both threads out of cutting fluid remains, because thread locker not sticks to oiled surface, and to use red locktight, if you not planned to replace the sight in the future.
I've never seen one like that, and I think it would be difficult to use. One bead in the middle is the most common setup because it works well and is simple.
Hey there came across your video got the same project on mind got myself I was googling about jb to fill the gape did jb weld still holding all the shooting will not shoot slugs or buck shoot just light target loads from rabbits and woodcook and grouse hunting thanks
Looks great! How do you like the handling of it now at 20 inches? I finished mine as well, and did it the exact same way, with the exception of using the original bead sight, the original tube version of JB weld, and a Brownell's brand of cold blue.
Douglas Henderson Thanks! I really like the way the 20" barrel handles. It comes up to the shoulder nicely and swings well side to side. Lightens the gun up a bit and makes it handier, too. Glad to hear you got yours finished the way you wanted. They make for a fun little project, and it's nice to see old guns getting a second chance.
Sort of. We can't cut barrels shorter than 18", or 18.5" for semiautomatics without running into issues. We can, however, have barrels as short as we want with no additional paperwork as long as they came from the factory that way, and the overall length of the gun is over 26". I have a 10/22 and an 870 with 11" and 12" barrels respectively, for example. The exception is centrefire semiautos, which have to have at least 18.5" barrels to avoid extra paperwork and restrictions. Thanks for the compliment, and good luck with your coach gun.
webster7710 if you want to redo the JB weld and do it properly so it will take blueing and be period correct. Just clean out the JB weld and use 50/50 silver sodder to fill the voids
I just went and checked and they do ring in this setup, no issues there. I had never heard of that test so thanks for bringing it to my attention. And thanks for the tip about silver solder. I'll definitely keep that in mind if I decide to refinish the business end of the gun at some point.
webster7710 my only fear of silver soldering is the heat which might loosen the solder that holds the rib on, defiantly would not pass the ring test after that
I wanted to give the barrels and rib some support out at the end to hold everything together. It may well be fine without, but having something there doesn't hurt.
The gap between the barrels is so much bigger at the point where you cut it, compared to at the original muzzle. You'll have a big gaping hole there if you don't fill it up.
Foxer604 It seems to be improving as I work the gun and get fresh oil down into all the working parts. It happened once the last time I was out, but even then it was easier to get open and I was able to do it with just my hands. The screws holding the plates on are really stuck, so for now I can't get the guts of the gun apart for a proper scrubbing. I just have to let the oil do its job.
Really? Finger tight? On a shotgun? When do you ever screw something onto a gun, *finger tight*? Get some needle nose pliers or something and tighten that down some.
Just a small but important suggestion when you are cutting threads. You want to keep the tap in the hole your threading until you get at least one to two turns of threads cut. Removing the tap after the first 1/2 to 1 turn is really really risky and you could very easily cross thread the hole you are threading like you mentioned. And you don't "have" to remove the tap to clean out the chips. When you reverse and go back a 1/4 to 1/2 turn that breaks the chip off and the flutes let it drop out the bottom. I personally don't like removing the tap until I've cut all the threads, I don't like taking the risk of cross threading. But you did a good job. I liked how you used compressed air to blow out the chips. Very classy.
Sentinel650 Thanks. That's good stuff to know. I appreciate it.
How is your JB Weld holding up? How many rounds fired since the chop? Have you fired any slugs or buckshot yet?
So far, so good. No signs of it wearing out or coming loose, and this gun is a go-to during hunting season, so it spends a fair amount of time bouncing around in a UTV and being knocked into the odd tree branch. No idea on how many rounds fired, but it's probably around 100. Mostly birdshot, but some buckshot too. I'm not looking to torture test the thing, but it gets a lot of good, honest use and has held up to my standards thus far.
Finger tight is enough. I put one in and thought it a good idea to tighten the bead with pliers and broke the bead right off. That one was soft. So now all that’s left is the brass threads.
Nice job!
Thx I'v got one to do as well now.
Everything's well, but... If you want to keep your bead sight rock solid forever, you need to clean and throughly degraese both threads out of cutting fluid remains, because thread locker not sticks to oiled surface, and to use red locktight, if you not planned to replace the sight in the future.
the coach gun double barrel is amazing and besides it needs to have double bead shotgun for a front sight one on the left and the other on the right?
I've never seen one like that, and I think it would be difficult to use. One bead in the middle is the most common setup because it works well and is simple.
Good job 👍
Thank you!
Where did you get your front bead sight drill and tap? I'm looking to do the same thing but I can't find a big front bead like you have
I got everything from Brownells.
Hey there came across your video got the same project on mind got myself I was googling about jb to fill the gape did jb weld still holding all the shooting will not shoot slugs or buck shoot just light target loads from rabbits and woodcook and grouse hunting thanks
Yep, the JB is still holding, as is the bead with Loctite. All I shoot is light birdshot loads too.
Looks great! How do you like the handling of it now at 20 inches?
I finished mine as well, and did it the exact same way, with the exception of using the original bead sight, the original tube version of JB weld, and a Brownell's brand of cold blue.
Douglas Henderson Thanks! I really like the way the 20" barrel handles. It comes up to the shoulder nicely and swings well side to side. Lightens the gun up a bit and makes it handier, too.
Glad to hear you got yours finished the way you wanted. They make for a fun little project, and it's nice to see old guns getting a second chance.
Douglas Henderson how’s the jb weld holding up.
You have given me the confidence to try to SBS my coach gun. Does Canada have a version of our NFA laws?
Sort of. We can't cut barrels shorter than 18", or 18.5" for semiautomatics without running into issues. We can, however, have barrels as short as we want with no additional paperwork as long as they came from the factory that way, and the overall length of the gun is over 26". I have a 10/22 and an 870 with 11" and 12" barrels respectively, for example. The exception is centrefire semiautos, which have to have at least 18.5" barrels to avoid extra paperwork and restrictions.
Thanks for the compliment, and good luck with your coach gun.
What size drill bit and tap size did you use
It's a No. 31 bit and 6-48 tap. I bought them together as a set.
@@webster7710 thank you
webster7710 if you want to redo the JB weld and do it properly so it will take blueing and be period correct. Just clean out the JB weld and use 50/50 silver sodder to fill the voids
also did you ring test the barrels after cutting them
I just went and checked and they do ring in this setup, no issues there. I had never heard of that test so thanks for bringing it to my attention. And thanks for the tip about silver solder. I'll definitely keep that in mind if I decide to refinish the business end of the gun at some point.
webster7710 my only fear of silver soldering is the heat which might loosen the solder that holds the rib on, defiantly would not pass the ring test after that
I use thick solder to fill it in. Is that fine?
I don't see why not. Probably better than JB Weld, to be honest. Go for it.
Why did you fill the space between the barrels ? Is this something important or is it just for the look ?
I wanted to give the barrels and rib some support out at the end to hold everything together. It may well be fine without, but having something there doesn't hurt.
Also it could get moisture in there and rust
Probably makes it look better
just for looks, i believe. I asked my gun smith about cutting down the barrels on my shotgun and he asked if I wanted the end filled or not.
The gap between the barrels is so much bigger at the point where you cut it, compared to at the original muzzle. You'll have a big gaping hole there if you don't fill it up.
can you shoot it without filling the rib or will that break something
It might be fine, but I'd fill it in just to be safe.
Where did you get the epoxy for the fill in
Canadian Tire.
how is the JB Weld holding up?
No issues a year and a half later.
webster7710 still holding up good.
@@sonnybedez7040 It is indeed. No trouble at all.
Sweet project. Did you ever resolve the sticking issue when opening?
Foxer604 It seems to be improving as I work the gun and get fresh oil down into all the working parts. It happened once the last time I was out, but even then it was easier to get open and I was able to do it with just my hands. The screws holding the plates on are really stuck, so for now I can't get the guts of the gun apart for a proper scrubbing. I just have to let the oil do its job.
What's not to like👍
Really? Finger tight? On a shotgun? When do you ever screw something onto a gun, *finger tight*? Get some needle nose pliers or something and tighten that down some.
Soulman1282 If it comes loose, I will, but it's a really light part and the Loctite's been holding it fine for two years now.
magazine cap on my model 11 shotgun has stayed fine after over 450 shots thru it, finger tight lol
finger tight has always worked fine for me.