Austin, the tip is very useful. My only 7:16 complaint is that much of your prep work was out of the camera view. Saw lots of your hands but not the part of the car you were working own. Try a wider view ... not so zoomed in. Im sure i can figure out the process. But would be nice to see it fully in progress. FrankB
I find myself watching the same thing over again and again just hear that wonderful relaxing music. Hope to hear much more while I watch your great ability to repair American Flyer Trains.
This is a good fix but an even better one for those of us retrucking thru-scale three rail cars is to install the copper axle wipers with the replacement two rail trucks such as they used on steam engines along with insullating bushings. It is labor intensive but worth it. CASG
Hello Dagryffyn- love your youtube channel!!! Love the postwar Lionel steam! I purchased some Led bulbs off amazon..12 volt seem to work ok even with 18 volts. One person told me that due to the electronics involved in the LED they are safe with AC power.
Austin, another way I found to clean the wheels, and what I now do to all of my rolling stock is to soak the wheels for a few hours in Simple Green to loosen up the built up gunk and grime. Then I loosen the remaining gunk with a small wire brush. I then polish the metal wheels with a dremel tool abrasive wheel and then soak all wheels in a jar of CRC 226. This helps to keep the wheels cleaner longer and also provides electrical connectivity for the powered wheels. I believe I got this method from Dave of Daves American Flyer trains. it works well.
Thankyou Michael. I've been amazed at how clean Dave wheel sets are. And I soaked and dipped wheels in just about everything but simple green...which I will now be doing. Wonderful tip!
Are those light bulb holders easy to find? I have a caboose that is missing the light. Thanks. I'm just getting reintroduced to this hobby. In the 70s and early 80s I have the typical HO Tyco trains. My wife found a 1950 American Flyer 290 with the original one piece speed control handle and a train show we went to a month ago. It would appear that the S scale is easier to put on the rails. My oldest boy and I got it to run for the first time tonight. It took a minute to figure out that the controller is A/C with our volt meter. I'm used to the basic D/C. When we first tried running it, all it did was make a buzzing from the tender. What?!? What does that have to do with the motor. SMH. After binge watching your videos, we discovered the reverser mechanism in the tender. We flipped the lever back and forth a few times and the engine took off. Didn't run it too long due to not sure about lubrication. But just long enough to hear the chugging sound and smoke. Was shocked and amazed that something this old had those features. I was giddy. But now on to properly lube and inspect it before running it. According to a note inside the engine, it was rebuilt in 1994 by R.O. Hunt 2-94. Sadly the year built stamp is missing on the inside. But from what l've found the 290s were built between 1949 and 1951 and my one piece red bakelite throttle handle is also correct for those years.
Hello Mark. Welcome to a fantastic scale! The bulb sockets could be purchased on a site called Portlines.com, ebay, trains-n-more.com to name a few. American flyer cabooses are inexpensive so you I would recommend that you purchase a lit one but this is your call. Here is my website. I add more flyer items as I have time to get more refurbished. sites.google.com/view/flyerfusion/home?authuser=1
I continue to learn so much from your videos. Thank you for making and sharing them. Two questions - I see you using diffferent attachments with your Dremel. Which ones do you use and for what purpose? And, have you installed a smoke unit in a Royal Blue? Do you have a video related to that project? Thanks again.
Thanks Stephen...I primarily use steel brush attachments for removing oxidation/dirt. I have not installed a smoke unit in a royal blue. I have two royals to rebuild with one of them being a major project. I would like to add smoke and chuff to that one but have several other projects ahead of it.
That baggage cat was interesting. Did AF switch to that wiring when they started using plastic instead of the cast metal for the car beds? Love your time lapses on the restore btw.
I purchased these from amazon. E10 screw is the type of base needed. 12volt seem to work well. GutReise 10pcs E10 Screw 12V Cold White Flood Light Led Bulb Flood Light Lamps +10pcs E10 Base (12V, Cold White)
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains I now have a small limp node in my right lung that they are going to use 3 aggressive radiation treatments to kill off. They've gotten 4 tumors so they seem to know what they are doing
Austin, you are a true craftsman. Thank You !!!!!
Thanks for posting this. I will try it with my lighted cars.
Let me know how it works for you Mark. In my tests I was surprised by the difference.
Austin, the tip is very useful. My only 7:16 complaint is that much of your prep work was out of the camera view. Saw lots of your hands but not the part of the car you were working own. Try a wider view ... not so zoomed in.
Im sure i can figure out the process. But would be nice to see it fully in progress.
FrankB
Consider becoming a Patreon supporter so i can improve my video equipment.
I find myself watching the same thing over again and again just hear that wonderful relaxing music. Hope to hear much more while I watch your great ability to repair American Flyer Trains.
This is a good fix but an even better one for those of us retrucking thru-scale three rail cars is to install the copper axle wipers with the replacement two rail trucks such as they used on steam engines along with insullating bushings. It is labor intensive but worth it. CASG
Always improve or reduce connections and use CRC 2-26 on bearing surfaces.
Great basic fix to a common and annoying problem 👍
What LED bulbs are you using?
Hello Dagryffyn- love your youtube channel!!! Love the postwar Lionel steam! I purchased some Led bulbs off amazon..12 volt seem to work ok even with 18 volts. One person told me that due to the electronics involved in the LED they are safe with AC power.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains thank you! I bought small LEDs off Amazon and haven’t had a problem yet either. I’ll look there for the screw type. 👍
Austin, another way I found to clean the wheels, and what I now do to all of my rolling stock is to soak the wheels for a few hours in Simple Green to loosen up the built up gunk and grime. Then I loosen the remaining gunk with a small wire brush. I then polish the metal wheels with a dremel tool abrasive wheel and then soak all wheels in a jar of CRC 226. This helps to keep the wheels cleaner longer and also provides electrical connectivity for the powered wheels. I believe I got this method from Dave of Daves American Flyer trains. it works well.
Thankyou Michael. I've been amazed at how clean Dave wheel sets are. And I soaked and dipped wheels in just about everything but simple green...which I will now be doing. Wonderful tip!
Are those light bulb holders easy to find? I have a caboose that is missing the light. Thanks. I'm just getting reintroduced to this hobby. In the 70s and early 80s I have the typical HO Tyco trains. My wife found a 1950 American Flyer 290 with the original one piece speed control handle and a train show we went to a month ago. It would appear that the S scale is easier to put on the rails. My oldest boy and I got it to run for the first time tonight. It took a minute to figure out that the controller is A/C with our volt meter. I'm used to the basic D/C. When we first tried running it, all it did was make a buzzing from the tender. What?!? What does that have to do with the motor. SMH. After binge watching your videos, we discovered the reverser mechanism in the tender. We flipped the lever back and forth a few times and the engine took off. Didn't run it too long due to not sure about lubrication. But just long enough to hear the chugging sound and smoke. Was shocked and amazed that something this old had those features. I was giddy. But now on to properly lube and inspect it before running it. According to a note inside the engine, it was rebuilt in 1994 by R.O. Hunt 2-94. Sadly the year built stamp is missing on the inside. But from what l've found the 290s were built between 1949 and 1951 and my one piece red bakelite throttle handle is also correct for those years.
Hello Mark. Welcome to a fantastic scale! The bulb sockets could be purchased on a site called Portlines.com, ebay, trains-n-more.com to name a few. American flyer cabooses are inexpensive so you I would recommend that you purchase a lit one but this is your call. Here is my website. I add more flyer items as I have time to get more refurbished. sites.google.com/view/flyerfusion/home?authuser=1
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Thanks Austin! I'll certainly check those links out and yours as well.
I continue to learn so much from your videos. Thank you for making and sharing them. Two questions - I see you using diffferent attachments with your Dremel. Which ones do you use and for what purpose? And, have you installed a smoke unit in a Royal Blue? Do you have a video related to that project? Thanks again.
Thanks Stephen...I primarily use steel brush attachments for removing oxidation/dirt. I have not installed a smoke unit in a royal blue. I have two royals to rebuild with one of them being a major project. I would like to add smoke and chuff to that one but have several other projects ahead of it.
Once again, great job. That will help me figure out some of my flicker issues when I get to that. What is in the spray can?
That is crc...sometimes I use it to clean metal...which is what I was doing there.
That baggage cat was interesting. Did AF switch to that wiring when they started using plastic instead of the cast metal for the car beds? Love your time lapses on the restore btw.
I honestly do not know...but that would make sense with the wirering.
How can I tell if I have the original circus engine
I would look for a date stamp inside the shell. If the top of the shell is red and there is a date stamp on it then It is probably original.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains thank you
You have screw in LEDs, where did you get them and is the screw part have a special description
I purchased these from amazon. E10 screw is the type of base needed. 12volt seem to work well.
GutReise 10pcs E10 Screw 12V Cold White Flood Light Led Bulb Flood Light Lamps +10pcs E10 Base (12V, Cold White)
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Thanks Austin
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains I now have a small limp node in my right lung that they are going to use 3 aggressive radiation treatments to kill off. They've gotten 4 tumors so they seem to know what they are doing
@@davehunt5766 I'm sorry to hear this. I will pray for your healing.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Just one more challenge to overcome