Magnetic trouble: A 1949
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- A #322 Hudson restored from junk has quit running. This video seeks to first diagnosis the issue and then solve the problem.
Here is a video of the initial restoration: • Video
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Your knowledge of these American Flyer trains never cease to amaze me. Thank You for the information !!!!!!!!!
great video. I really appreciate your content.
And I appreciate your kind words. Thank you.
Yes stretching the springs a little may work with the speed. Engine doesn't look really dirty which is a plus. Hmm, a washer might work.
Thankyou Michael...great suggestions.
The greatest smoker and photography that is right there in front my nose! Love it all.
Lol!
Nothing beats vintage American Flyer for smoke and sound. I go to many local (Connecticut) train shows and that distinctive choo choo sound stands way above the modern electronic ones.
That is for sure!
Running faster in reverse (or slow in forward) is really a problem with the commutator rubbing against the brush tubes and that's why adding a thrust washer to the brush end of the armature helps. It's mechanical binding. If you remove or use a thinner forward thrust washer, you will fix the problem. I know Doug Peck disagrees with me, but I have done it and it works. Thanks for a plug for my book!
Really? This is very helpful! It also means a potentially simple solution verses rewinding the field. Thank you Tom. And more plugs for your book on the way! Each time I use your book I have a renewed appreciation for the detail and clarity of your book.
I have my grandpas Hudson its runs and smoke a little to well love to see you fixing these up and making them like new I'm currently in the market for a smoke in tender 312 to go with my grandpas Hudson love the video keep up the great work!!
Thank you Robin. Does your hudson have sit? Good luck in your search for a 312!
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains mine has sib like yours In the video and if my memory is correct ares where made in the same year
The engine in the video has the smoke unit in the engine and is not a SIT (smoke in tender). The SIT hudsons were made 1946-1947 I believe.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains mine was made in 1949 my grandpa got it for his 6th birthday as a set now I have it it also has smoke unit in the engine
SIT Hudson's were made in 1946 and 1947 only. Austin is right. Buy the 1947 sit because the 1946 has a weird chassis and a lousy too thin link coupler. My 1947 312 SIT Hudson is a super performer and never comes uncoupled with a full load of 16 to 19 cars!
Very nice tutorial! I am glad to hear younger AF lovers mentioning my favorite AF guru, Tom Barker. I have been using Toms books and advice for many many years. Since the mid 70’s. Your videos are so thorough and thought out! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thankyou Chris. Your words are exceedingly generous. I'm sure Tom Barker has forgotten more than I will ever know! But I do hope these videos encourage others to join the American Flyer Hobby.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains if you are ever in the Cincinnati Ohio I would like to invite you over to see the trains and the workbench! It would be a fun time and I know a lot of S Scale guys with layouts we can visit!
Ok I have one ran slow then stopped thanks for ideas
Nick...if you want some ideas please use my the email AFtrainfun@gmail.com and I'll need more details then what you provided.
I agree, those are great smokers. I am not going to fiddle with my engines but I love to watch other people work on them. I don’t even collect AF’s and I look forward to your videos. Keep up the great work!!!
Thankyou Greg for your encouragement. What do you happen to collect?
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains I collect Lionel. I no longer have a layout but I run two tracks around the family room for three months around Christmas. I have a loop for each of my girls. Trying to get them to enjoy toy trains.
Extremely informative and helpful video Austin. Thanks.
Thankyou! I wondered if maybe I over did it.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Not in the least. For block heads like me, I needed every second of the video to get me to comprehend the problem and the solution. I find the intricacies of the AF S gauge to be very intimidating.
Another beautiful Flyer locomotive back on track. Whenever your schedule is free I have a 326 that needs your TLC
I'll send you an email
The 326 was Gilberts signature locomotive in the 1950s
@@michaelgmoore5708 I'm still a fan of the 322 we had as kids in late 40s to 60s
Love your videos huge flyer fan in canada
Thankyou very much!
There are three different size thrust washers available so you can mix and match and get them just right.
would it be at all possible to do a clinic trouble shooting to fix the diesel roar/horn on the B unit? I really value your advice and the content of you vids. i have a Santa fe A-B-A loco. the B unit speaker is on the fritz. a couple years back i suffered a stroke. rendering my left side paralyzed. meaning its challenging to perform fine repair. I remembering popping off the shell and seeing a tear on the speaker horn. and set it a side for a rainy day project. i believe it to be more complicated then simply swooping out the drum.or an aftermarket Lionel sound unit. but soldering can be challenging for the reason aforementioned. with these percious AF engine I like to look before leaping, hence seeking your advice and guidance. The lesson here is never assume you have unlimited time to resolve issues so don't delay, time is invaluable life takes unexpected turns and twist thank you so much for your response. just want the ROAR BACK Respectfully always, Brian
Hello Brian. Your timing is very good as I have just completed a diesel roar repair for a customer and will have a feature on that topic in the near future. Please consider emailing me as we might have more to converse about... aftrainfun@gmail.com
You indicate the torn speaker but is this the only issue? I have not yet attempted to repair a torn speaker but certainly would give super glue a try. The diesel roar I worked on has a functional speaker but the roar mechanism was faulty.
I'm really sorry to hear about the stroke. Please email me as I would like to be of service.
I have American flyer trains and have never ran them it probably going to be a big mess when I do!
I hope it is not. I've seen flyer in rough shape but also in remarkable shape. If repairs are needed there is help available.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Ater watching your videos and thinking about it it makes me want to get my royal blue freight set out of the box and see if it will run! what do you use or recommend to lubricate it with? I got the set for free about 3 yrs ago it is almost new condition except for a few scrapes on the tender. I want to find someone to fix it.
What an excellent idea! And what nice engine you have. I have had great success with Wahl,(as in the razor company) oil. I also do repairs for others if I might be of service. Contacting me at aftrainfun@gmail.com is a great way to connect.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains I emailed you a message about my train thanks.
Darn screws on the motor can't be tight at all I have found.
Check spring tension; you can lightly stretch those brush springs and gain performance. Usually if you switch the springs from one tube to the other, it will run weaker in reverse and scream in forward.
I think I see a bottle of Whaloil there. Great stuff and it cleans off rust using just cotton swabs. Just cleaned another 930 caboose I just bought along with a 904 caboose that is going to look Ex+ when I am done with it. I never buy junk so that is one reason why I don't like taking anything apart, plus I am not good at doing rivit work with no tools for that kind of a job. Gee that 322 really got a nice overhaul from an expert that you are.
Thank you. That oil was you suggestion. It gets a lot of use!
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Thank you Austin, yes Steve Blackburn a retired American Flyer repairman passed on his knowledge of Whaloil to me.
Austin, install a trust washer on the rear of the armature shaft by the oil-slinger .
Yep...that is what I did.
How would you do a rewire of the field coil or armature for the motor??
I would follow the steps in Tom Barkers book. I've not done one but once you get the proper wire you unwind the device you want to rewind and start winding.
Wow that is a real smoker!
To check brush spring, push on brush. If improvement, arrange more spring push. If no improvement, spring ok.
A bigger influence comes by remount of commute tor relationship revolution to the armature lobes. Try reinstalling commutator in various rotations to the armature lobes.
I have an american flying steam engine passenger set set my dad bought in the early 1950s, struggling to find a place on my o gauge trainboard. Im planning a video of the flyer set. gotta find the time to do the video, should be unique. My set hasnt been run in 52 years, but is in great shape, kept away from moisture and temp change. wish I knew what maintenance is best before I attemp a first run . hopefully you may help me prepare the engine, I have no clue and there are no train shops left in new jersey. Planning on doing my first trainboard video in next 7 days. its has only a light on the steam engine that also shine thru the stack. no smoke unit or sounds. help! gary j
Gary...please send me an email to aftrainfun@gmail.com with a phone number..I will try to connect with you. You might also watch the following series as it has some details you will find helpful...th-cam.com/video/TlhSFk637N8/w-d-xo.html
While removing excess thrust of the armature helps some I bet the real cause of the 'Faster in reverse' symptom is cupping of the commutator.
Interesting idea. While I can't speak to other scenarios in the case of this engine the commutator was in good shape...as I specifically checked into this. Tom Barker commented that he has often seen the need for a thrust washer when an engine runs faster in reverse. He has noted often the commutator ends up rubbing on the brush cups which slows down the rotation and could also partially impede good brush contact.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Some came with a very thin washer on the commutator end to help reduce friction on that end too. Of course, there should always be a little end to end play to allow for expansion when the motor gets warm. It is critical that the commutator is flat not just shinny clean otherwise the brushes won't make full contact.
Austin, what make/model is the camera set up directly in front of you? Thanks.
I'll send you info via email.
Weak brush springs
How the heck are you supposed to follow a video in fast forward?
I'm not gonna rate it but so far half way through.. zero stars..
What did you think by the end?
I really don't learn anything watching you in fast forward. All the details I hope to glean by watching your video are missing, and the music gets obnoxious. Sorry I was hoping for more learning.
The sections sped up have been viewed in real time in several other repair videos I have done. As leaving them in real time would have made a video an hour long which takes exponentially more amounts of time to make combined with the 50 % average that viewers watch...it seemed prudent to speed some sections up. Not every video has music and many different types of music are used. Music is a creative element that, as a musician, I think is helpful at times. I know this is subjective and that I dont always get it right...but the entire process is a creative one that I offer freely and with the hope of drawing others into the hobby.
Hey Austin, another great video! I’m actually watching it for the first time in May 2022 because I have a question for you. I recently acquired a 322 Hudson from an estate sale. It runs very well and steams so-so. However, it doesn’t have the classic AF choo-choo sound. I know Flyer made 4-6-4 Hudson’s for quite a few years with variations. But didn’t they all have the choo-choo sound? Browsing through online AF catalogs, all the Hudsons were advertised with smoke and choo-choo. Do you think it very likely needs a good mechanical service?
Thanks much,
Mike
Thanks for reaching out Michael. The engine number 322 denotes smoke and chuff. And if the engine has smoke then it has a chuff. So yes...it needs some sort of service on the chuff. Your timing is interesting. A gentleman sent me his father 322 that just today I was trying to decide when I should get started on it...I have a few too many irons in the fire at the moment.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Hi Austin. Thanks for your reply and confirming the 322 should both smoke and chuff. There is only one Hobby Shop in my area that works on Flyer but their service times are several months from drop-off. I hesitate to ship AF steam engines anywhere for fear of damage in transit, but I guess everyone does it as long as they are protected and packed well. Many thanks again and keep your excellent videos coming. Mike
@@mikesamericanflyertrains you are welcome. When you package an engine I would recommend separating the engine and tender, rling your items first in either butcher paper, tissue paper( several thickness) or cardboard tightly. Then tightly wrap this in several layers of bubble wrap. Lastly, pack the box so that nothing moves around.
I do repairs if you are I interested. However, till I get parts it could easily be 6-8 weeks start to finish.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Hey Austin, thank you for the excellent packing tips and offering repairs. Is there somehow here on TH-cam to share email addresses for direct contact? I haven't figured that out on here so far. Thanks again.
@@mikesamericanflyertrains aftrainfun@gmail.com will work. I have this in the comment section of my videos and at the end of the more recent videos as well.