I haven’t been into my timing cover yet, but the primary chain in the video to me looks like it’s inside out. I’m sure that’s by design but I’ve only seen them the other way. Like the secondary chains are opposite where the kerf joints are facing the gear as opposed to outward , I didn’t read all the comments, so somebody else may have asked the same question
Good video but being advanced mechanical work I would advise against teaching others to go 1 link before or after. Those tricks might be fine for you, but can confuse others.
I have a question about just pulling the cover off of the timing, cover and changing the tensioner Is it necessary to give the crankshaft that back turn to get the tensioner out or in and also do you need to keep tension on the guide while you’re pulling that tensioner out or will it try to suck the chain back like you said ? I’ve got that one second rattle on a cold start and since the previous owner ran the thing 2 1/2 quarts low on oil, I’m assuming it messed up the tensioner somehow other than that one second rattle there are no noise from the timing chain
If your going to go in, just do both the secondary chains and tensioners, along with the primary chain and tensioner, water pump and gallery’s if pre-2014. It’s super difficult to reuse the secondary tensioners anyways. Yes the crankshaft sprocket is your friend, move it back and forth as needed, you have painted links on the chain for guidance on reassembly.
@@Pete_Tech_ yeah I’m not going in yet. My timing sits at 15° at idle right where it supposed to be, it’s a 2006 Infiniti G 35 coupe. The timing chain is silent except for that cold start one second rattle and I heard if ya run those engines low on oil it could ruin that tensioner but apparently there was enough oil to go around even though there was only 2 1/2 quarts in there, there was no oil light on the dash and it does work, so I was just gonna pull that little plate off and swap those tensioners, if you stick that new one in there compressed shouldn’t it just go right in I suppose, with one hand, you could keep tension on the chain in the other you can just stick the tensioner in there put the 10 mm bolts in and then pull the pin
Also, it takes a couple hours for the oil pressure to back off, before you get the one second rattle, the next time you start it , so it’s not like every time you start it it does it you have to let it sit for quite a while
I just opened up my timing cover on my vq37hr and one of the phasers lines up perfect while the other is off it’s near it but off by maybe a tooth or 2 and j was getting codes p0011 and p0021 with a horrible idle would idle at .4 rpm at cold start and wouldn’t rev past 1rpm and even to start I had to hold the gas about halfway the gallery gasket is torn in only 1 spot aswell do you think I should save it I already have the timing kit water pump gallery gaskets or just motor swap
Hello i have a crankshaft problème in my 08 350z since iam from Morocco and theres no way to find a VQ35HR arround. I managed to find a VQ37VHR MY QUESTION is can i put the heads of a VQ35HR into the short block of a VQ37VHR , i would appreciate your answers Thank you
Yes!!! And they make incredible power when you do that too. Will operate just like stock, and be more reliable. You will need to do some light modification. There’s good TH-cam videos on it 👍🏻
Nearly all timing chain tensioners are tensioned from oil pressure, that’s how they get tighter as the chain stretches. But in your case, yes that’s that’s correct
Because in my ford explorer 2019 the crankshaft point at approximately 10 o’clock and the camshaft right on 1 o’clock and the left one on 11 o’clock so I need to move the crankshaft alone to be at 4 o’clock as it should be, can I do that please answer me ASAP and thank you so much
Yes! As long as your colored links hit the marks, you can rotate everything 15° in either direction. Obviously bringing everything back to its designed TDC location before finishing
@@Pete_Tech_ actually the crankshaft mark pointed at approximately 10 o’clock so I have to move the crankshaft about 50° to reach the point mark at 4 o’clock hopefully you understand me now The question is: Is it ok if I move the crankshaft alone 50° to reach the point while the two camshafts stay still without moving at all ? Because the camshaft it’s at them points
Im doing the same job on a 08 G35 all because of a water pump. Now, the secondary chain lines up on the left cam, but on the right cam, the chain lines up to time, but the cam lines towards the circle that looks like a bushing on the tensioner guide top. Is this still time? or do i have to line the cam towards position... pls get back to me. I need some guidance here. Anything can help. Because i feel like im in time, but i can't get the cam to line up to the Dot. Do I turn the crank? Or turn the cam till i get on time? Because that's what I've been doing but i only have the left side perfect and the right irritating me. Thank you kindly. - Daniel
When it comes to lining up the secondary chains, the main timing chain will be off so your only focus is making sure the cams line up with the index’s on the block. But if they do, they will also line up with the chain, unless you have the chain installed on the wrong indexes. The cams need to be in time per the block. An easy way to know if your right is having the intake cam and exhaust cam indexes on point, with identical number of chain links in between them.
2013 nismo, p0011, 60000 street driven miles, replaced vvel, crank, and cam solenoid sensors, and 2 oil changes... cel still popping on and going into limp mode... whats the common culprit that usually would cause just the one bank to pull the code? I have a feeling im going to have to be using this video soon, thank you for it as well and good job, if you know based off your experience, id love to hear and be directed, been too long without my therapy provider, the z lol
2013 is the “non-updated” gallery gasket setup. It can be easily diagnosed by having someone experienced with a bidirectional scan tool monitoring the requested cam angle versus actual. If I had to GUESS, I’d say gallery gaskets are a good starting point as they will probably be bad.
@@Pete_Tech_ it did say 15 degrees out of sync, still after replacing the solenoids and sensors and oil change.... would that be a symptom derived from the gaskets if you know? I appreciate your response, time, knowledge
My timing is set perfectly to spec but I can’t turn the motor by hand more than 200 degrees. It was running just fine before. I don’t see why my valves would be bent.
Are timing chain failures common on these cars? Taking a look at a 2011 G37x but the engine issues I've been reading about (oil consumption, timing chain issues etc.) are steering me away from them.
These are some of the most solid engines ever made for a 330hp v6. Chains do not fail, the gallery gaskets do, but that problem was solved in 2014. And yes it’s a soendy job, but one of the only jobs if they are serviced correctly.
@Jason Raahauge does it keep slipping a tooth when you're almost done putting the timing elements together? A trick I borrowed from another video was to fasten a zip tie around the primary timing chain above the crank sprocket after lining up the timing marks. I only moderately fastened the zip tie with some slack remaining (there wasn't enough slack to install the guides when I tightened the zip tie all the way). I spent at least a couple hours chasing one tooth jumping off the primary chain during my first installation. After lining everything up, there wasn't enough engagement between the chain and intake cam sprockets to prevent skipping when I proceeded to install the chain guides. Zip tying the chain increased the constant applied force needed to line up the bolt holes for guide installation, but not much more than leaning harder with my body weight, and effectively prevented the chain from skipping off of time.
As long as your chain dots are equally spaced apart from each tdc indicator your good. For example if one dot is 5 teeth past, they should all be 5 teeth past. Etc..
As usual they never give you the most important information , it’s aluminum and over tightening could give you nightmare There’s another video a guy painting his timing cover and in the paused video every single bolt torque specification displayed But most of them don’t even know neither they care some of them do it for someone else so it’s not their car not their headache they even tighten bolts with small impact wrench until it makes it snug 😂
You made the timing process more difficult than it has to by doing it your way
Thanks!
I agree
You got a better video?
@@caribbeankartel5758 just go by the book
@caribbeankartel5758 yes th-cam.com/video/3Rmuh_xhKes/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ct9hJ5E7Xi8iJMa-
Thanks for teaching us the right way to do it I'm in the prosses to do the timing chains on my 370Z Thanks again
Definitely watch my full tutorial 👍🏻
I haven’t been into my timing cover yet, but the primary chain in the video to me looks like it’s inside out. I’m sure that’s by design but I’ve only seen them the other way. Like the secondary chains are opposite where the kerf joints are facing the gear as opposed to outward , I didn’t read all the comments, so somebody else may have asked the same question
Nope that’s by design. Got a much better video in the link description as well:
Tips for putting on the primary chain that was took off when the engine was not in time?
Yo, I got a brand new full tutorial video on this, all your questions answered. Check my new video!
Can I move or rotate the crankshaft alone to go at it’s point 4 o’clock by keeping the camshaft not moving at all while the chain out ?
Yes, see the full tutorial in the link description
The tensioner in the middle of the cams is soft ?
Cause I just put one and I feel is too soft
Good video but being advanced mechanical work I would advise against teaching others to go 1 link before or after. Those tricks might be fine for you, but can confuse others.
I have a question about just pulling the cover off of the timing, cover and changing the tensioner
Is it necessary to give the crankshaft that back turn to get the tensioner out or in and also do you need to keep tension on the guide while you’re pulling that tensioner out or will it try to suck the chain back like you said ? I’ve got that one second rattle on a cold start and since the previous owner ran the thing 2 1/2 quarts low on oil, I’m assuming it messed up the tensioner somehow other than that one second rattle there are no noise from the timing chain
If your going to go in, just do both the secondary chains and tensioners, along with the primary chain and tensioner, water pump and gallery’s if pre-2014. It’s super difficult to reuse the secondary tensioners anyways. Yes the crankshaft sprocket is your friend, move it back and forth as needed, you have painted links on the chain for guidance on reassembly.
@@Pete_Tech_ yeah I’m not going in yet. My timing sits at 15° at idle right where it supposed to be, it’s a 2006 Infiniti G 35 coupe. The timing chain is silent except for that cold start one second rattle and I heard if ya run those engines low on oil it could ruin that tensioner but apparently there was enough oil to go around even though there was only 2 1/2 quarts in there, there was no oil light on the dash and it does work, so I was just gonna pull that little plate off and swap those tensioners, if you stick that new one in there compressed shouldn’t it just go right in
I suppose, with one hand, you could keep tension on the chain in the other you can just stick the tensioner in there put the 10 mm bolts in and then pull the pin
After Priming the new tensioner, of course
Also, it takes a couple hours for the oil pressure to back off, before you get the one second rattle, the next time you start it , so it’s not like every time you start it it does it you have to let it sit for quite a while
What’s the tensioner and upper guide torque specs?
I just opened up my timing cover on my vq37hr and one of the phasers lines up perfect while the other is off it’s near it but off by maybe a tooth or 2 and j was getting codes p0011 and p0021 with a horrible idle would idle at .4 rpm at cold start and wouldn’t rev past 1rpm and even to start I had to hold the gas about halfway the gallery gasket is torn in only 1 spot aswell do you think I should save it I already have the timing kit water pump gallery gaskets or just motor swap
My passenger cam phaser is off a little bit counter clockwise
Hello i have a crankshaft problème in my 08 350z
since iam from Morocco and theres no way to find a VQ35HR arround. I managed to find a VQ37VHR
MY QUESTION is can i put the heads of a VQ35HR into the short block of a VQ37VHR , i would appreciate your answers Thank you
Yes!!! And they make incredible power when you do that too. Will operate just like stock, and be more reliable. You will need to do some light modification. There’s good TH-cam videos on it 👍🏻
@@Pete_Tech_ Thank you so much you just made my day
Are the secondary chains supposed to be Rock hard? Or do they get tension from oil pressure
Nearly all timing chain tensioners are tensioned from oil pressure, that’s how they get tighter as the chain stretches. But in your case, yes that’s that’s correct
@@Pete_Tech_ so if you remove the vtc covers and they have some play in them they need to be replaced?
Because in my ford explorer 2019 the crankshaft point at approximately 10 o’clock and the camshaft right on 1 o’clock and the left one on 11 o’clock so I need to move the crankshaft alone to be at 4 o’clock as it should be, can I do that please answer me ASAP and thank you so much
Yes! As long as your colored links hit the marks, you can rotate everything 15° in either direction. Obviously bringing everything back to its designed TDC location before finishing
@@Pete_Tech_ actually the crankshaft mark pointed at approximately 10 o’clock so I have to move the crankshaft about 50° to reach the point mark at 4 o’clock hopefully you understand me now
The question is:
Is it ok if I move the crankshaft alone 50° to reach the point while the two camshafts stay still without moving at all ? Because the camshaft it’s at them points
I mean that I have to move the crankshaft alone 180°
Im doing the same job on a 08 G35 all because of a water pump. Now, the secondary chain lines up on the left cam, but on the right cam, the chain lines up to time, but the cam lines towards the circle that looks like a bushing on the tensioner guide top. Is this still time? or do i have to line the cam towards position... pls get back to me. I need some guidance here. Anything can help. Because i feel like im in time, but i can't get the cam to line up to the Dot. Do I turn the crank? Or turn the cam till i get on time? Because that's what I've been doing but i only have the left side perfect and the right irritating me. Thank you kindly. - Daniel
When it comes to lining up the secondary chains, the main timing chain will be off so your only focus is making sure the cams line up with the index’s on the block. But if they do, they will also line up with the chain, unless you have the chain installed on the wrong indexes. The cams need to be in time per the block. An easy way to know if your right is having the intake cam and exhaust cam indexes on point, with identical number of chain links in between them.
@Pete_Tech_ Thanks for the response. it really helped.
How did you rotate your cam without having the valve cover off ?
I have a new video that’s a full tutorial that explains the ENTIRE timing install process. Check it out!
Крутое видео
Same procedure for vqde?
2013 nismo, p0011, 60000 street driven miles, replaced vvel, crank, and cam solenoid sensors, and 2 oil changes... cel still popping on and going into limp mode... whats the common culprit that usually would cause just the one bank to pull the code? I have a feeling im going to have to be using this video soon, thank you for it as well and good job, if you know based off your experience, id love to hear and be directed, been too long without my therapy provider, the z lol
2013 is the “non-updated” gallery gasket setup. It can be easily diagnosed by having someone experienced with a bidirectional scan tool monitoring the requested cam angle versus actual. If I had to GUESS, I’d say gallery gaskets are a good starting point as they will probably be bad.
@@Pete_Tech_ Thank you, I heard mixed things about 2013 with having or not having the updated galley gaskets...
@@Pete_Tech_ it did say 15 degrees out of sync, still after replacing the solenoids and sensors and oil change.... would that be a symptom derived from the gaskets if you know? I appreciate your response, time, knowledge
My timing is set perfectly to spec but I can’t turn the motor by hand more than 200 degrees. It was running just fine before. I don’t see why my valves would be bent.
Try with the spark plugs out. That wouldn’t make sense if it’s in time unless the compression is stronger than your arm and ratchet.
So did you fix it ?
Did you put the passenger cam back or on the mark when you put the chain on and tightened the upper chain ?
Are timing chain failures common on these cars? Taking a look at a 2011 G37x but the engine issues I've been reading about (oil consumption, timing chain issues etc.) are steering me away from them.
Gallery gaskets are common on high km motors. Chains are perfectly fine in most cases
These are some of the most solid engines ever made for a 330hp v6. Chains do not fail, the gallery gaskets do, but that problem was solved in 2014. And yes it’s a soendy job, but one of the only jobs if they are serviced correctly.
Now I'm confused as hell. Moving on to another video.
New video out
I made sure the oval and circle are on each secondary and I’m getting a random misfire code car is popping as well
All marks are aligned as well I followed your entire procedure now it’s my 3rd time doing
Unfortunately, idle exhaust popping is a result of incorrect timing, usually by one to two teeth.
Same I can't get the passenger side exhaust to perfectly line up
@Jason Raahauge does it keep slipping a tooth when you're almost done putting the timing elements together? A trick I borrowed from another video was to fasten a zip tie around the primary timing chain above the crank sprocket after lining up the timing marks. I only moderately fastened the zip tie with some slack remaining (there wasn't enough slack to install the guides when I tightened the zip tie all the way).
I spent at least a couple hours chasing one tooth jumping off the primary chain during my first installation. After lining everything up, there wasn't enough engagement between the chain and intake cam sprockets to prevent skipping when I proceeded to install the chain guides. Zip tying the chain increased the constant applied force needed to line up the bolt holes for guide installation, but not much more than leaning harder with my body weight, and effectively prevented the chain from skipping off of time.
All my cams and crank line up for top dead center but none of my marks lines up on the dots and lines of the cams and crank should i be worried?
As long as your chain dots are equally spaced apart from each tdc indicator your good. For example if one dot is 5 teeth past, they should all be 5 teeth past. Etc..
Promo-SM
It is best to actually do it instead of talking about it. You lost me.
What’s the tensioner and upper guide torque specs?
As usual they never give you the most important information , it’s aluminum and over tightening could give you nightmare
There’s another video a guy painting his timing cover and in the paused video every single bolt torque specification displayed
But most of them don’t even know neither they care some of them do it for someone else so it’s not their car not their headache they even tighten bolts with small impact wrench until it makes it snug 😂
These are readily available on multiple sites online!