ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ม.ค. 2024
- This is a video review of Formbot Voron 2.4r2 Pro 3D Printer kit. The quality of the components and parts in this kit is top-notch with good customer service. #Formbot would respond to any questions you might have during before and after purchase. I would highly recommend the kit compared to others.
If you support the channel, please buy the kit thru the affiliate link below. Thanks! ❤ Much love!
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Formbot Voron 2.4 Pro kit - www.formbot3d.com/products/vo...
Wago Connectors:
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▬ Shopping for CNC Linear Rail ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
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#Moons Industries stepper motors
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Orbiter Extruder with Moons motors
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LDO Motors kit:
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Thanks for this video. The fact that you know how to and do check tolerances gives your review a ton of credibility. It seems like Formbot have their act together.
I was on the fence about choosing a Formbot kit but you helped make my decision easier. Thanks for the vid!
I'm so jealous of your wiring it's so clean and organized I can only dream of this, nicely done.
If you use CANbus, you will have the same clean wiring as well. I think with my 4 wire Canbus mod/upgrade, it reduces as many as 20 wires from the toolhead. Last but not least use WAGO connectors ❤😂
@@lavithhcm Speaking of wagos, I bought the fformbot kit thanks to your videos but I was just wondering what file you used for the wago clamp mount
@@michaelmills3898 wago file you can find in voron mod repository. The flat one is actually from Voron STL folder
@@michaelmills3898 mods.vorondesign.com/?version=v24&search=Wago
Good review....if the formbot kit meets your standards that says a lot. I can see you have tools and knowledge about machining and tolerance so that's a meaningful judgement. Great videos man! look forward to more.
Thanks for your kind words ❤️
This video was STELLAR, thank you so much!
thank you bro!
You are very professional in engineering (A hungarian mechanical engineer), keep doing your channel:)
Thank you! 😍
Primo recommendations. I also selected formbot based on price and some good reviews and I'm quite happy to have found this video confirming my choice as my parts arrive over the next couple days. Definitely going to go check TIR on the surface plate at work (I'm a Seattle-based mechanical engineer) for all my motors and get some WAGOs on order as well. Thanks for the video!
the machine can only produce good quality print if and only if it is built correctly in both hardware and software. Since you have mechanical engineer background, it shouldn't be a problem building it mechanically (making sure frame and gantry is built nice and square) Software wise can be a bit tricky at first if you don't how to get around Linux cmd line prompts. Fortunately, there are helps online :-) Best of luck, if you need help just drop a line here. Cheers
Subscribed with pleasure. Sincerely.
Very clean build. You should be proud of it.
What is the white filament you used? When I built my formbot 2.4 I wanted to do a white and blue color scheme but from the research I did at the time I was told that white filament isnt suitable for voron parts because it has more fillers to get it to look white and as such isnt very strong.
I already bought the white abs so I tried printing it after I built the printer and yeah its the worst of all the filaments I have. Prints like crap and is brittle. But your parts look nice. Not as white as the filament I have so maybe its natural abs or asa?
first thank you for stopping by and say hello. Yes ABS is perfectly fine for Voron part but I do prefer natural ABS color instead of white color.... White color ABS looks nice but I am not sure about its ductility properties. (you should compare ductility properties of the white color with that of regular/natural ABS, you should find the difference) Depends on brand, some are more brittle than other. Stay away from eSun ABS+ to print for Voron parts... . Just go with regular ABS material. I use Polymaker PolyLite brand for ABS and ASA material. In the video, I use natural ABS with no brand name... and it's cheap like $14CAD for a 1kg spool. It still prints nice as long as I got it stick to the surface and enclosure usage. Cheers and best of luck
I really appreciate you checking with a granite plate.
I've been wondering if building a 3d printer with an epoxy base would help with resonances
Not sure i umderstand. Instead ABS, you want to go with epoxy parts? Epoxy parts would have catastrophy failure to the printer down the road. It might work at the begining but it is like a time bomb to be exploded. So stick with ABS or ASA material. ASA is a bit tougher but more bittle than ABS. Having said that, both are great material to build printer with. Stay away from ABS+.
@lavithhcm no I mean put the entire 3d printer frame into an epoxy composite base like a large CNC
@@jacobsokolove2303 oh i see. I see cnc machines epoxy some peg legs onto concrete floor so it wont move out of position. But in our 3d printer case, my table is the weakest link that would wobble back and forth so much. Unless i have concrete table, its different story. I plan to use 2x4 to make solid bench for it and then place a concrete paver on top to weight it dowm. If the mass of the table is much more than the mass of tool head i think ít should do the job to stablize the printer.
@@lavithhcm what's wrong with ABS+? And.. any ABS+ or particular brand? I've heard something like ABS+ has lower glass transition temp than regular ABS and that may(will) cause issues. Is that the reason to stay away from it? And if so... Does that apply to all brands? ESUN ABS + seems to have normal print temperature compared to regular ABS 240(recommended)-270.
@@lozovoymax1941 eSun ABS+ suffers from layer adhersion issue. Parts might look ok but become flimsy. This is especially true when overtighten occurs and develops micro cracks between layers. Right now, everyone seems to recommend ASA over ABS but honestly i think ABS is far superior in our use case due to its ductility.
I'd like to know how you made such clean wire harness for your Canbus and AB motors
Canbus runs on 4 wires only. Power wires go directly to my 24v psu. Data wires (CAN H and CAN L) go to the RJ11/RJ12 jack on Octopus v1.1 board. Yellow and white wires in the video. Check it out again, you'll see them. AB motors wires go down with Z drag chain. By doing this, you need to have X endstop on the toolhead and Y endstop at the back eliminating drag chain on both X and Y axis.
Or you can go sensorless homing, at a lower speed for X and Y.
I have a Formbot 2.4 as well, over 1000 hours of print.
2 problems that I had so far:
Broken wires- eliminated with canbus,
Shite quality pei plate - replaced with a decent one.
Kudos for your measurements and detailed review.
Hello I have a question, I was always under the impression to lube the linear rails you have to take the rails off and lube from behind, that's what everyone says anyway. My question is lubing the way you did have you had any issues?
They came pre cleaned in the Formbot kit so you dont need to open and loose all the balls. Unless you work under magnifying glass, i highly suggest not to open them. I have opened one block video, you can take a look for ref to fix one of the blocks. I think they use retainer ball bearing guide wire / actual ball bearing size to preload the linear block. To put them back, you need micrometer to seperate different ball size which is time consuming.
Is the klicky part of the kit or do I need to buy it separately if I don't want to use tap? Thank you.
Unfortunately, not in the kit. But yesterday i just replace my klicky with cartographer probe. I like it way better than klicky provided you pla n to use CANbus
If you would have stayed with the electronics that was included in the kit you would not have needed the 5V supply for the Pi. And then you would have space for the splitter that was real nice because you dont have to use any wago connections.
5V is actually drives the rgb leds. I could get the regulated 5V from the octopus UART
5V is actually drives the rgb leds. I could get the regulated 5V from the octopus UART
What problems did you have with the steppers online motors
The motors are just bad (3 out of 5) with TIR spec is out of whack as i checked for TIR similarly in this video th-cam.com/video/WWF8mjZLdJ8/w-d-xo.html . The TIR spec of a motor is so important in terms of print quality. There is no tuning or compensation method that i know of for bad TIR of a motor. It was long ago but not sure about it now unless something changes. I wasnt willing to gamble my money on it. 🤗
I've also built a formbot voron weeks ago with TAP. Im about to replace that with klicky. One question - do you use klicky as a Z endstop? or do you have separate z endstop installed?
I just replaced my pcb klicky with cartographer scanner probe. To answer your question, I use Z-endstop in conjunction with PCB klicky and setup Auto Z calculation. People call it auto Z klicky.
@@lavithhcm so I can’t use klicky without additional z endstop?
@ of course you can. In [stepper Z ]setup endstop as virtual endstop. And klicky would act as Z endstop.
@@lavithhcm but how does it know on what height it should take the probe when there is no separate z endstop?
@ The 3d printed parts which you need to print out. It is setup as the "same height" as your toolhead. So it just move sideways to grab the probe.
What fans did they provide?
Check at 9:50. Fans are alright. If i want them to be quiet. I run them 25-50%. At 100% they are loud and push a lot of air.
I am building also my Voron 2.4 from voron with sb2040 can.
I have hard time with config, would you be able to share the config?
Sure. Btw, what probe are you using? I make quick video tonight showing my config and explains what it does. Were you able to get the mcu id: Application Klipper?
@@lavithhcm Thanks for the answer. I am using Klipper with mainsailos and using tap . Most of my config looks good, but I just wanna double check . Still didn’t do first print because I have Issue with Klipper.