Milwaukee Rear Handle Circular Saw for Wood
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2020
- Robin checks out something from Milwaukee that he's been waiting a long time for! The Milwaukee M18 FCSRH66 Rear Handle Circular Saw is something we've enjoyed using and in this video you'll see why.
This video is proudly sponsored by Milwaukee.
Find your local Milwaukee stockist: uk.milwaukeetool.eu/support/s...
FEATURES
Delivers the power to rip cut at the same feed rate of an equivalent AC circular saw, with the ability to crosscut up to 570 pieces of 90 mm x 45 mm pine stud on one 12.0 Ah battery charge
Next-generation POWERSTATE™ brushless motor, REDLINK PLUS™ electronics and REDLITHIUM™-ION HIGH OUTPUT™ 12.0 Ah battery pack deliver superior performance, durability and run time in high demand applications
Rear handle design circular saw with blade left allows the user excellent cut line visibility
190 mm blade which gives a 66 mm depth of cut, enabling the saw to cut 3 stacked OSB boards
Durable metal rafter hang hook for workspace management and safety
Vacuum adaptor supplied fits directly to all MILWAUKEE® dust extractors
Magnesium shoe reduces weight and maximises durability
Integrated LED light for workspace illumination
53° bevel capacity
#MilwaukeeTools #Woodworking #RobinClevett
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It's impressive you're getting good results with an Xc 5.0 battery. It works, but just doesn't have near the power. I use a minimum of the 6.0HO or 8.0HO if I have no 12.0 laying around close by, and need to make a quick cut. But I nearly always use a 12.0 High Output. They come with the 12.0 in kit form and were optimized for the High Output battery structures. Mainly the 12.0. It does make it a bit heavier, but more well balanced as well. It puts the weight in the center of saw. The nice thing is, you can frame all day on one 12 ah HO battery. Even working with wet treated lumber, I have no problem cutting all day with a 12.0.
The run time and ESPECIALLY the Power is MUCH greater using the high output batteries. Really that is the case on all newer Milwaukee M18 FUEL tools.
If you don't have a High Output battery, I would skip the 6.0HO and go straight to the 8.0HO as they are identical in size and weight. Price is similar also. The XC 8.0 HO Is my go to battery for my blade right circular saws, the super sawzall, the string trimmer, etc.
I keep 12's in the m18 table saws, the rear handle circ saws, miter saws, and chainsaws.
I no longer use the HD 9.0's is the tools. They are excellent batteries for our rover, radius, and rocket lights. Great for run time. Lacking power with the ol' 18650 cells.
The HO batteries with 21700 cells are where the big power is at.
Thanks for the Video. I hope this bit of information helps. Take care! 🍻
I always loved to watch Larry Haun timber framing and he always had a skil saw like this, this was back in the 70s too. Carpentry is such a timeless art connected to our forefathers.
Do you know what?!!!! You and Rodger are brilliant! Naturally gifted and tLented presenters/tradesmen . Thanks for the videos. Peace and diy love from Dublin.
Thank you Fran from Dublin!!!
@@ukconstruction you're welcome my friend. I'm doing the deep door linings in my home.
Hi, as a landscaper working often with Oak planks for various applications from retaining sleepers to exterior carpentry projects such as stairs I just wanted to say thanks for the time and effort put into these video's. I have picked up numerous tip/idea's as regards woodworking and tool tests, after many years on the tools it still proves that you never stop learning! All the best!
Bought mine last September and wouldn't be without it 👍👍. I use a 9ah battery and it'll last all day and some.
It's a bit unusual to get used to at first being rear handled & blade left but once you're used to it (couple if hours) you'd never go back.
This battery saw is more powerful than my old 9" mains Makita & quite a bit lighter too.
I think anyone would be amazed at how powerful it is.
The only downside is the dust extraction- absolutely useless. I just use mine outdoors without the port on it and it never clogs up. Really highly recommend this saw.
Regards
Tim
An excellent, honest and detailed review and most helpful. Thank you for posting.
Hi Robin, always liked the rear handled saws. Used to watch Norm Abram using his old Porter Cable machine but they're a rare beast. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and keep up the good work. 👍🖖😎
So humble and intuitive, thank you, just bought the corded version but enough info from this video i think
After many years of using a 9 1/4 Bosch circular saw I went over to an Hitachi 7 inch saw with a maximum of 2 inch cut but the weight saving was enormous, after using the Bosch all day cutting up joists and rafters etc you really ached, not so with the Hitachi saw even though all those tools were corded back then. Having cordless tools would be a godsend if I was still working.
I bought a corded Makita 5377mg Hypoid gear drive rear handled saw from the US about 5 years ago & run it through a 3kVA Site Transformer. It's my "go to" saw for ripping down lumber such a flat roof furrings (so much torque @ 4,500 rpm). Use my cordless Delwalt DCS577N Flexvolt rear handled saw for lighter work & convenience but with a thin 1.55mm kerf blade, it tends to wander when ripping, although it's fine for cross cuts using a speed square as guide.
Worm drives are great you should try one I have been wanting to try one of those Milwaukee's since I seen them out I suppose it's lighter than what I'm using but the blade to the left is more convenient then the blade to the right you have to trust that your sight line on your saw table is correct but with that blade being the left you can just steer the blade through your line that's what I love about them
Have had an early Skillsaw wormdrive, the motor runs parallel to the blade, for quite a while now. One thing the parallel motor, supposedly, allows the manufacturer to optimize motor position independent of the arbor to maximize torque. Mine doesn't slow down for anything. It's quite heavy though. I don't take it out for casual cutting anymore.
I have the dewalt version that came out before the milw and makita saws, but i am still really happy with the saw, fantastic run time, shit loads of power, only time ive had it bog down is when the battery is about to run out. Only downside is the weight like you say but i find it still really nice to use. Dewalt battery slot has a hole in the bottom so doesn't fill up too much either.
Thanks for review. Been considering 1. Like the real world reviews. Really enjoy your channel. Greetings from the US.
Thanks John..
Even the brits love milwuakee👍🏼
Just bought this..cheers Rob...might get the 5.5 H. O battery for it 👍
One of the best reviews... California here!!!
Thanks Douglas!!
About time we got some of these rear handle saw in the uk. But price a lot more than the states.
Robin you the man !
I hear that bosch's X-lock will be coming to bosch circular saws in the future, not just angle grinders which will be nice.
If I was to get one of these I would go for the dewalt flexvolt purely because I've got the batteries for it but I much prefer a right hand blade, I've got a Bosch left hand blade saw which I use for plumb cuts if I'm cutting in a valley and leave the flexvolt saw set for the angle cut to save time. But for the common rafters I always use the dewalt as it's a right hand blade
Alway’s Educational. Thank you!
I've just ordered one of these with a 12ah battery to replace my year old brushless makita circular saw. I've found the makita safety cut out activates with the smallest bit binding. Which is extremely annoying when it happens 40 odd times a day. Hopefully the Milwaukee will be a great replacement.
Thanks for the video
Your a season carpenter and you answered my main question
Is it heavy and hard on the wrist
Has lots of pro’s but a hard sell if your used to a blade right skill saw that is a lot lighter
i got my eye on the makita hypoid saw. always fancied a yanky saw
Hope those eaves don’t have to be re-cut seven floors up! 13 1/2 “ is 342 mm. Great video
I have been watching a few reviews on these over the past week (USA Sites), so nice to see one in the UK. The cut figures they give have been based upon the 12ah battery, although as you know the 5ah battery work well too.
Always best to have two batts though. one dead 12ah ain't cutting anything till it's charged. I don't know the price differnce one 12ah vs two 5ah.
@@UberAlphaSirus Just throwing a spanner in the works, I recently got an 8ah battery by redemption when I purchased the backpack vacuum. It, like the 12's is high demand, so it will handle the hard work without overheating and isn't a lot bigger or heavier . The 5's are not HD and given here in Oz it is mid summer and is often in the high 30's to mid 40's , I have found the 5's do tend to get a little warm. We can buy a six pack of 5's for a bit over $500. au and while I already have 7 of them, I'm starting to think any replacements will be 8's .
@@davidstephens1092 Yhea I can see the demand issue. A 5ah will have two sets in parallel, a 12 ah probably 5 sets. each set can deliver 20-25 amps so a 5ah can deliver 50Amps at most a 12ah 250amps. so the max 100% viagra hard on a 5ah can deliver is 50 amps at 18V = 900watts. the 12ah can deliver that with ease as it's about 40% what it can deliver so the cells stay nice and cool without blowing a blood vessel. It depends if your using it 100% as well. if you got a laborer cutting stuff constantly bigger battery better, if your a lone worker and do a 1 minute cut every 10 minutes then the little battery will do and you always have a battery to spare and/or on charge. At least the tool manufacturer didn't go all wanker and demand a special battery for high demand, it does give people an option. I don't do milwaki, Im invested in makita, but the same shit flies regarding batts.
@@UberAlphaSirus Well said sir, I always try and use the biggest batteries first, but it is nice to know I can still throw a small one on if I need to. I had Makita for a while until an issue where it took 8 weeks to get a warranty repair done, no offer of a loaner or a deal on a new one. Not good enough, 8 weeks in trade is a killer. I sold everything and switched over and haven't looked back. Also the 5 year warranty is excellent.
What are your thoughts on a 12v camera-too view screen of the blade and cut path built into the saw? Yes it would cost more but I feel the quality and ease will make up. The setup would have guide lines on the hd display.
If you like this with a 5ah battery, you'll be amazed with a high output 6, 8, or 12ah pack or high demand 9ah pack. They can supply more amps to the saw and REALLY make it sing. It's a completely different experience. A 5ah or less pack simply can't supply the juice to make this saw work as it should. The kits came with 12ah packs. I'll put this up against any 7 1/4 saw, cordless or corded, for brute power. I haven't tried the new cordless worm drive from Skilsaw, though. It's supposed to be a beast. Rear handle saws are generally for framing and are at their best when you position your work to let gravity and the saw do the work. Setting up a saw horse a bit shorter and tilting the timber so you crosscut downhill and you'll get the most productivity out of them.
Great review !!! thanks
Good chippy!! Good review!!!
No one can tell me when it is coming out to Australia 😭
Would love to see you and RR buildings do a tools day video together
Used a worm drive about 5 years. Wont go back brilliant saws.
Just FYI, the rear handle Milwaukee (and Makita and DeWalt for that matter, IIRC) aren't worm drives. They just have the saw blade on the left but are still direct drive saws.
Just a name for a rear handle, my makita is a hypoid.
Nice Robin, I wish manufacturers would make the knobs out of metal
Like the American hypoid saw I want it
Hi Rob 👋
Just purchased this but struggling to decide which battery to also purchase 😬 🤔
I know you said you run the 5amp but is it the "High Output " 5amp ?
Thanks Nick
Robin, if you're using this with a 5ah battery, you aren't doing it or yourself justice. This was designed for high output batteries, specifically the 12ah. With a HO battery they are as powerful and any corded saw and will run through timber as fast as you'll ever want. It's got a bit more power than the 36v Makita, and just a slight bit less than the DeWalt version on a 54v battery. So if you find it lagging, use a HO battery.
About time we got these in the UK. Great for framing and roofing. Shame it's so expensive. Blatantly copied the Skill though.
Not at all mate, it’s you have a look at how the motor is connected to the drive shaft they are complete different
Would you recommend this or the Hikoki multi-volt circular saw you’ve used in previous videos?
I have exactly the same question Robin. Namely this one vs the 3607... which one is preference and why?
The Hikoki C18DSL is a left blade machine, and has a 57mm cut at 90deg. It is better than the right hand blade, but still a short sole machine
The septic framing guys live and die by their skilsaws. Once you get the hang of using one, with its nice long sole and the blade on the left so as you can see what your doing, the europe right hand blade seems bizarre. You never see a compound mitre saw on site there til the second fix guys turn up
What I saw was they all had corded saws on an extended 50' lead, but most of them also used an air nailer too so they were used to trailing cable and pipes . I tried everything to get a mains skilsaw here, didn't know there was a cordless version available. In the US, most framing timber is DRY, untreated doug fir. Wondering how this will deal with the wet tanalised stuff that we get
@ukconstruction Hi Robin, Ive had a look through the comment but couldnt see this asked. With the main section of the plate being on the ‘off cut’ side of the timber, how have you found keeping the saw upright as you get close to the end of the cut - if that makes sense. Thanks Robin.
About time. Talked to skillsaw to be told they were not allowed in Europe
Love my skill mag77 wormdrive one of few in the uk🇬🇧🇬🇧
Is it 110v running on a transformer? I think the Americans have got the edge on timber framing
James Drennan Love mine too
Yeah, the milwaukee isnt true wormdrive.
I run a dewalt worn drive I bought from America, 110volt...7 1/2inch blade and a 2300 watt motor, thin curf blade and it is like a hot knife through butter.
@@simonpalmer8033 man after my own heart
Great vid goo feedback
I’m sure you know but that saw needs the high output batteries for maximum performance. I use an HO 8.0 amp hour in mine. And it does great 🙂
Yes, thanks for that and you are right. For some reason Milwaukee didn't send any. We bought one but it was on the table saw.
Gotcha
3:55 It gets loose because of the motor brake. I've had my angle grinder blade get off my tool and run around the ground multiple times. Very dangerous! The thread tightens when the tool runs, but loosens when it brakes.
both of hikoki multivolt saws can do 66mm depht of cut with half of the wait and plenty of pover to spare
Would love to see a side-by-side comparison with the DeWalt DCS577. I've got batteries for both systems but have generally found DeWalt tools to be my preference with a few exceptions.
Just about deep enough to cut cls batons for stud walls 🤔 might have to buy one for myself
Skillsaw has an actual cordless worm drive saw
dont think you can get that here in the UK, also the 1 year warranty is really off putting
@@jackofalltrades4091 I get you man just not a big fan of this "worm drive". I had the DeWalt version of this (flexvolt) but I did not like it since it felt unbalanced. This was right after I tried the actual worm drive corded version that DeWalt sells, the corded was better. The cordless skill version looks actually good and its a worm drive AND the parts can easily be replaced.
Sadly I think because of there metal housing and somthing to do with being grounded or the way they do it can’t be sold here go figure but if you do timber framing work etc there excellent tools
It seems to me, reaching over for the handle makes this handed.? Would handling be improved if the whole machine was opposite handed/built.?
How do you make that wooden guide for the framing square
I prefer the 8 amp battery light and gives me full power
I plunge and then cut but that looks a little more awkward with that saw. Guess it would take a little while to get used to doing !!
Do thay do a left hander
As far as I know these are not in use in Europe? I've at least never seen one in Norway. It appears to me that people prefer the mitre saw here to get better, more accurate cuts
I've never really got to the bottom of why that is. Some people say it's for marketing reasons (ie people won't buy them in Europe) but another theory goes that worm drive saws are illegal in the EU. I don't know if thats true but certainly a lot of the rear handle saws which have come onto the European market recently are "worm drive style" rather than the true worm drive machines you get in America
Been using worm drive saw in ireland for years. Never a problem.
@@kierandoherty1600 Yup, same here. I have one of the last Skil Mag 77's to be made in America. Combined with a Freud Diablo blade it is unstoppable.
You can get plenty accurate with these saws with practice. Watch some Larry Haun and Essential craftsman framing videos to see how well they are put to use.
I like the miter saw idea, but it sounds like a lot of time is burned moving materials to and from the miter saw.
U should compare it to the dewalt one
Please do youself a favor and contact your Hilti rep to try the 36V worm drive circular saw
6:13 *brushless.. Surprised MW missed that.
I went to the states in the 90's and met a carpenter over there who was shocked I hadn't heard of worm drive , I can't understand why it's taken nearly thirty years for rear handle saws to arrive in the UK.
In north America it's called a worm drive saw.
Yes but this isn't a worm drive. It has a direct connection from the motor rather than a pinion.
3:18 most of the world prefer Metric
much easier to calculate
For some strange reason, we Americans haven't caught up to the rest of the world on this. It's a bit embarrassing really. But then, we are getting quite used to embarrassment these days. Sorry.........
The handle isn't over the weight when cutting so that is why your wee wrist is strained. It's a perfect saw for cutting rafter tails or for sighting a cut from down and below a bit when you can't find a straight edge. The downsides are its battery driven and I will take a cord over managing g batteries any day and again the weight is all forward so it can wear your arm out faster and if it's still not a hypoid or worm gear saw then the torque is no better than a regular circular saw.
daniel buckner the 12 ah battery will last 2 days hard work, so can’t see how it’s a downside, With a Freud blade this saw is amazing, this week I did a full 3 bed 1st fix on one battery 😁
That's impressive but I guess for me having to remember to charge batteries at all is more than I want to deal with with different tools from different manufacturers. In north America batteries for different manufacturers are all different. So I would have to remember which tools I want to use and charge those batteries ahead of time or take up valuable space with chargers charging all the batteries. I know Germany recently moved to unify battery design for tools sold in Germany which is awesome but here its isn't like that and no matter who makes my corded tools they all plug in and run to an outlet or generator here. To each their own of course and naturally I do have cordless tools I use and like but those are more like hand tools than heavy tools.
You will only get the HO power out of the ho batteries 3ah,8ah or 12ah
Yes, agreed but they didn't send any and the tools worked quite well without
@@SkillBuilder The difference is like night and day. If you liked it with the 5ah, you'll absolutely LOVE it with a HO battery. Seriously, it makes that much difference.
If Robin keeps using that and gets a pair of braces he'll be like a retro Essential Craftsman.
I’m looking into getting one of theses saws but can’t seem to find any blades online can anyone help?
Its just a 190mm x 30mm 24T. FFX do a pack of 3 DeWalt blades for under £40. No connection etc
Thanks man appreciate it
Ryan yeah I’ve had a look at the Freud blade but they don’t seem to have the knock out for the diamond bore
Milwaukee vs Dewalt flexvolt ?
We will do it
It's annoying all the different dust port sizes. Even amongst the same brand sometimes. They should all agree a common size.
I think it’s partly a marketing ploy so you have to buy their vacuum so it fits properly to vent the power tool?
IKEA do the same thing with kitchens because their units are not standard size you can only use their doors
@@josoapification yeah could be. My Makita router has a different size port than my Makita track saw. Then different again on my Makita multi tool/sander.🤯One brand three different diameters.
I’ve had a skil saw from the states now for over 15 years and back when I got it I knew I couldn’t use it on sites as it didn’t have a riving knife. Is it ok now to use a saw without one?
David Carter I'm from the States and have been banging nails for 30 plus years and don't think I've seen a skill saw with a riving knife
Why anyone would use anything other than a worm drive is beyond me well availablity has been the main reason .
I have a corded one next purchase will be cordless
Only Skil makes a true cordless worm drive. The other brands are left line-of-sight direct drives. Not that it really matters, honestly, they all can do the same job equally well.
"A widdle bit"
Better off with the flexvolt wormdrive version
Based on what? Assume youve tried them both side by side?
@@mattryan1986 I dont need to I can see how the Milwaukee struggles cutting 45mm thick timbers compared to the flexvolt. Use the flexvolt daily.
I like corded tools...till they can mske a cordless with battery ti run 5 hrs straight working i hate cordless
3:15 Robin 13.5 inches is 342 mm not 362!
You are right, well spotted. Don't mix your units, measure responsibly.
I was just giving an approximate example!! Well spotted mate
Is this saw corded
No mate M18 battery platform
I got lady wrists too ;(
Not for me that saw I say if it’s roof I’m doing I might as well get the Bosch circular saw 110v out and I gave give it plenty of stick and you can’t do that to the battery ones
Yes you can, I use mine to rip all the time. I do not own a corded saw.
Lugging around a transformer, no way! Cordless all Day long.
Said the man who obviously hasn't used one. These are every bit as powerful as any corded saw you've probably used. You can rip several hundred feet of 3/4 inch plywood/osb on a single battery too. Battery powered saw have made quantum leaps in the last couple of years.
Mike Morgan hahah sorry forgot you work with me yes have used battery saws and I’ve got battery saws but when I do a roof I use 110v saw
@@markmarlow Fair enough. What models have you used, and when? What is your reasoning for using a corded saw on a roof? What country are you working in?
Hi,
I wish milwaukee can make another 7 1/4 model with a top handle style with a left side blade like their 6 1/2". This milwaukee rear handle is just too bulky.
I was skepticle of a 20 volt circular saw. But I have several B&D 20 volt batteries and the drill Works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . I saw the 4 stars and some glowing reviews so decided to purchase this saw. Well, leave your money in your pocket and run a cord because this little saw won't cut
Got the Milwaukee, one really annoying thing, they designed a perfect bucket, where the battery goes is a perfect bucket for that saw dust on the site and any light shower of rain to get into. Very poor design, I would think the makita would be better in that regard although I don't have it to test.
Yes it needs a lid for sure
Have you ever really cut rafter tales 7 stories off the deck?
We use scaffolding in the U.K.
@@SkillBuilder we just hop up real fast in the US
Remortgage my house to buy one I guess
Just wanted to add, Don't buy any of the US Milwaukee tools as they won't have any warranty over in the UK and with regards to this saw the mounting hole in the blade is diamond shaped in the US, so a standard blade won't fit the US saw.
Hope that helps someone.
Regards
Tim
Some blades have both i.e you can punch out the diamond. Diablo i think
I have three Milwaukee saws and none of them had the need for a diamond hole blade.
Too heavy for cutting eaves...when u upside down..
Not sure why you would use a saw that big for cutting rafter tails. Used more for cut man on the ground feeding carpenter crew.
Shame they didn’t put metric on the saw for all of us. I’ll switch to metic to find the middle of a board at times.
Check out the tape measure tricks video to find the middle of a board.
This shit too heavy,
47 mm just say 2x4 it’s easier, metric is sh•t
It has the same power as the other Milwaukee circ saw, only has a rear handle now and blade left. This saw just doesn’t have the power of the flexvolt 577. No cordless saw comes close to Dewalt flexvolt. As a framer trying this saw, it bogs down ripping pt or engineered lumber. No balls...DIY only....
Metric sucks, a standard door is 2’6 x 6’6 convert to metric it’s 762 x 1981 how is metric similar, it’s not use inches it’s easier.
Robin why are you so English, I have a Makita worm drive saw it’s actually a Makita hypoid saw, I bought in America I’ve had it for 18 years and it’s still working fine.but Robin your to English, and you always use metric.
To heavy and wide. Makita rear handle is a way better and cheaper buy
Nm they are both terrible designs is it too much to ask for a lid on the battery compartment, thanks shill builder!
£400 for a battery powered circular saw, I will stick to corded thanks all the same.
One can't put a price on portability and convenience. Corded tools are for a workshop.
The whole time I was waiting for you to cut that board lame you talk to much and show to little
Pistol Pete
The word is too.