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Pointing the blade backward is great for tool storage if you don't want to remove the blade. It compacts the tool and keeps the teeth from biting into hands, tool bags, etc.
@@jeffh4505Can't argue with that. But the next time I want to use my oscillating tool, the blade is already on the tool and not floating around somewhere in my shop.
@@jeffh4505 I inherited mine from my father in law, and the blade is held on by a screw. So I just loosen the screw, flip the blade around, and then tighten back down. Actually easier than removing the blade.
I tend to keep my blade at about a 30° angle - just one notch off from straight - switching it from left to right depending on my access to the work. That seems to give me the best visibility and control. It's easier that way to pull the blade into the work at a slight angle, drawing your cut line with just one side of the blade before plunging in and going to town on it.
Dido. Like for cutting nails between deck board and joist you can use the joist as a fence and hit all nails at the correct angle instead of searching for them with plunge cuts.
Thank You, That is not enough for you, you are truly amazing for doing what you do to help and inform us. I am a 60+ yr old female Diy-er, and I have learned sooooo much from you. You explain in simple, yet depth. As far as this one video, I use a multi-tool a lot, and I am so glad you did this video. How truly cool to learn all this. I have truly learned so much from you, and can't Thank you enough. You are truly a God send!!
The great thing about changing blade angle is for tool clearance and work position. My oscillating saws really shine when cutting drywall. Great video!
A cutting trick that I use on straight cuts is to temporarily attach another piece of wood a long the cut line using Brad nails or double sided tape. The attached piece helps guide the blade straight and square improving the cut. Additionally, changing the speed on the multitool to a lower setting helps improve the quality of the cut, especially when cutting thick pieces of wood.
I have used this exact tool for probably at least a 100 hours. I always keep it straight on and almost never turn it to 90°. Just do what feels best and you will do your best to work that way. This is a great tool for cutting out drywall.
I always use mine to cut drywall anymore. It’s probably one of the most versatile tools I use. Grout removal. Fascia. Siding. Works great to remove interior wood sheeting. Excellent when you need to cut something in a pinch or in weird spaces. That’s the only time I use it on an angle. You can save some money by sharpening or re-filing your blades as well. Fairly quickly. Just use a small triangular file and it works like a charm!
It's funny how some things you take for granted that everyone knows. Like the motion of the blade, I never would have guessed that anyone would think it moved side to side. You're doing important work with these videos. Anyone unfamiliar with power tools can easily understand your format and teaching style. Kudos to you good sir!
No, the definition of "oscillate" is not limited to rotational movement around a pivot. That said, I would have thought that the action of the tool was blindingly obvious from a cursory inspection of its construction.
Multi tools have come quite a ways, as well as the blades. I’m still running a 12 year old Bosch corded but I can’t seem to kill it. One piece of advise I would share is try out the carbide tipped blades; they do extremely well. Also, when choosing a multi tool understand that the degree of oscillation matters immensely in your productivity.
Decided to stick with corded tools years ago, when I realized that different manufacturers make different better devices, so in order to get the best performance, I would have to have a dozen different batteries. Big benefit, was saving $$$$$, plus not having an entire shelf of chargers and batteries... and of course, never running out of juice in the middle of a project.
GREAT advice! When thinking about the "draw" first, it's like a hand saw - in that case, the teeth are positioned to cut more on the draw than the push forward. And when striking an initial groove before, it's always on the pull. Like you were saying you'd now prefer with the multi.
Great video. Technique information is always welcome. I have a tip to share about using oscillating tools. DO NOT use one of these tools inside a closet full of your wife's clothes. Empty the closet first.
Great examples, particularly the pulling vs pushing and multiple points of contact. For most things, I use the half round blade which seems to allow me to not focus on the exact orientation of the blade to the work, less chatter and a straighter cut.
I normally buy DeWalt for my power tools. I was a bit broke the week I needed one to cut out some flooring trim on a permanent shelf. I bought a cheap oscillating tool from harbor freight. It was corded with an adjustable speed dial and only $30. I figured I’d only use it once. Was I wrong. It’s a wonderful tool and since it’s adjustable, I’ve even cut dash plastic with no burning or melting plastic.
I use the round, half circle blades to score a line. Then switch to the regular blade to cut through the material. Way easier than pushing that square blade at an angle
I recently used mine in a spot where the only way was straight ahead. In some situations, left or right facing might be best - or the only - way to use it. Due to the length and width of the tool, different blade orientations are needed at time, and no one direction appears "best".
As a 30+ year experience electrician who does mostly renovation electrical work the oscillating multitool is excellent. You can cut what a reciprocating saw or jigsaw can not do. Thank you for the tips on using it I am open to any ideas.
Have you seen or used the gang box blades? They are basically a rectangle blade that you can use to plunge a single gang hole in one go. They have them at harbor freight and probably some other places. Curious if you've found them effective. For me they'd seem difficult to control outside of half inch drywall. Also a tip I like is to use grout removal blades on horsehair plaster, then switch to wood blades for the lathe. The plaster tears the wood blades up pretty quick, but the grout blades are much more durable.
Great video Ethan, thank you. I normally cut with the blade at 0 degrees for the same reason, but I find other angles like 45 or 90 degrees useful in tight spaces.
Great tests! I always thought I was doing it wrong by working most tools towards me LOL! I always feel more control pulling towards me, I think that's why the Japanese pull hand saws are so amazing!
"cutting on the pull" method means the blade needs to be pointed backwards 180 degrees ? and then start cutting from the far end, and pulling towards you?
Here are some useful but hard to describe insights I hope I can get across. Curved cutting edges on blades are always better than teeth laid out in a straight line. If you can imagine the oscillating action of the tool, you can understand why. As the cutting edge travels back and forth around the fulcrum, the teeth closer to the end of a straight blade push outward just slightly but enough, depending on the length of the cutting edge, to bounce against the bottom of the cut and vibrate the tool out of your hands. Another insight; the longer the shaft of the blade or the bigger the diameter of a round blade, the farther the cutting teeth will travel, increasing cutting speed and cut depth but stressing the motor more so lighter pressure may be warranted. Curved blades also will clear out sawdust better. Straight edge blades push the cutting dust towards the center of the blade, if you can imagine the same phenomenon I described during the first insight.
I recently tried the 90 degree method due to necessity because of a clearance issue. I found it quite clumsy in my hands. However, I'm sure I was pushing instead of pulling. Thanks for the video!
IMO the main advantage of being able to change your angle is for clearance. It doesn't really show up in shop tests like this, but when I bust out the multitool it's almost always for awkward cuts in weird places, where getting the right access is critical.
This is why I think your channel is just great, I always learn something new, and not just new, but helpful and invariably better than the way I was doing something. It also really helps instill confidence, which is very important when doing projects!!
I trimmed all around the bottom of my bedroom skirting board (baseboard) using a multitool, to prepare to lay wood floor under it (removing it would have caused too much plaster damage). I found that a 45° blade angle worked best, with one hand around the front of the tool, between tool body and skirting. I had really good control of blade depth with my knuckles, giving a really good feel of when it had cut through. I think 45° helps for such long cuts because it "flows" in one cut: if you do it straight on, you make lots of short cuts that probably wobble in their horizontal angle more.
Fantastic! My favorite tool and I didn't know this. I'm going to have fun this winter trying out this new method!!! Thanks THC...you always give us tremendous information. Just proves we're never too old to learn.
That's not true. The blade is significantly thinner than a western style saw which makes it easier to use as you are sawing through less material. The double hand technique is also much easier to learn as it automatically lines up your cut giving you straighter results. Western saws have a higher skill ceiling but once learnt you can get similar results. In summary, Japanese style saws given you nicer cuts but take longer, western saws are more aggressive and cut faster for the same amount of applied force but the cut is generally rougher.
Cutting a hole in a wall, fx. for outlets, I turn the blade 90 degrees, as I can rest my hand holding the tool on the wall while cutting, and it makes it easier for me to cut the line (straight or curved) more precisely and holding the tool more stable. At least for me, as the tool is a bit heavy for me to hold stable unsupported for a longer time. And I've gotten used to doing it this way!! And "used to" is important, as the video showed! /Pia
I have his tool so your input helped me a lot. Your knowledge of tools is immense and spot on. I must admit though, it is pretty heavy to hold for me so prolonged cutting is uncomfortable. Blades don’t last long so there’s the cost too. All in all, it’s a great tool. Thanks for the info.
Your videos are great. I love how you usually explore or,explain alternative methods to provide reasons for one or,the other. On this,video, though, the rotating cutting arc is kind of what “oscillating” means. It usually a rotational or arch, not linear. If it was linear, it would be a vibrating cutter. Second, the reason you have more control on the draw is that you’re shortening the fulcrum. A push cut moves the fulcrum away from you, which is always less stable than closer; the same as with applied leverage. And, the instructions from the manufacturer (at least on mine) stipulates to not use the blade other than “straight.” While I’m an occasional rebel and don’t always follow instructions (shock!), but with power tools I’ve always assumed they stipulate things like this for safety and/or functional reasons.
I use the big round blades for open straight cuts. That way you can cut in lie or at 90 degrees at any time. I find that make straighter cuts easier. And the blade lasts longer since the cutting is spread out over longer area. I reserve the small straight blade for tight cuts.
I’ve just bought one of these tools and not yet used it. Thanks for your really useful and easy to understand tutorial. I would never have thought of turning the blade 90degrees.
It depends on the type of cut if it is a long cut then I find on the side pulling towards you is the best. But if it is a short cut for example cutting wall board for an outlet the straight works better. Just my opinion. Great video
Thanks for pointing out the difference between cutting on the draw or pushing away. I’ve done both and didn’t really notice that there was a difference. But I will try to do more draw technique now when I really want a straight line.
it's the tension. when you pull the blade, the blade is in tension, making it stable. when you are pushing, the strength is pushing outwards, with the material being cut functioning like a pivot that want to throw off the blade. Same principle applies to Japanese handsaw which are pull saw and western saw which are push saw. The former immediately pull the blade in tension, giving much more control especially with the start of the cut
As the arm and elbow moves away from the body it becomes less stable and subject to wobbly movements. When the arm and elbow is pulled in towards the body, it’s more stable, and therefore better control of the saw. The Japanese have it right
Years of experience condensed into an excellent video! I just bought a hook blade that will facilitate that desirable pull direction cut. Thank you for these helpful tips.
@@MrRaptorman1975 It would be handy to have 3 LED lights: -45°, 0°, and 45° The manufacturing cost of the light feature is almost all in the first LED.. Two more LEDs would likely add just pennies to the cost.
@@MrRaptorman1975 Yes, and I agree. I recently was cutting out some trim in a dark closet and really wished my multitool had an LED at 45° so I could see the blade. _(Note: My original comment was a joke about the placement of the LED.)_
The method of using 'pull' against 'push' is very interesting and your explanation wins the day. As previously mentioned by others - that's why Japanese saws are so accurate and efficient as pulling has a lot more control. Thanks for the video.
Hey Ethan! I switched to mostly 90 degree pull cuts about a year ago. I feel i have far better control and get cuts that are more square than using it the typical way. Love your videos!👍
I recently bought blades from Amazon with a slight Arc to them. They have better control and seem to last longer. I only use side cutting 4 tight spaces and actually that's what it was designed for.
Great!You are absolutelly right, by default always use straight cuts, otherwise only when you need. Whats the deal with speeds? I never know when to use it fast or slow material wise?
It really depends on the circumstances of the material you're cutting. Sometimes you have to turn it to get in a tight spot. I feel like straight cutting is faster but I find it easier to brace the tool with my knuckles riding on the material, with the blade sideways.
It's always interesting to hear from other folks about stuff like this. I almost always find it easier to knuckle slide straight on...but it probably all comes down to how big your hand is, how it's shaped, how your wrist turns. Everything. That's what I like about carpentry...everybody has a slightly different way of doing it!
You should try the newest Makita one, I know it only takes Starlock blades. But the vibration is like 80% less than this Dewalt. It's also bulkier, but it's nicer to hold with two hands when cutting. I'm a newbie when using oscillating tools, but I find it much easier to keep my accuracy when vibrations are so much lower. Also, thank you for the tips on using oscillating tools, I'll use it your way from now on.
I agree about the Makita multi tool. It's one of the best tools Makita has ever produced. Superior cuts due to almost no vibration. Its aalso very quiet. I find Bosch blades stay sharp longer than others.
I've never been a fan of the multitool, but I think that's because of what you discovered about controlling it. I'm definitely going to try some of these techniques next time I use it.
You offer some of the best analysis I have seen. While it seems effortless, your word choices are very close to engineered for understanding. My compliments.
Lovely insights, great job! I usually have my blade at a 45-ish degree for clearance and visibility, but I do mostly horizontal cuts in decor building. Definitely gonna try the pull method! What's your opinion on pulling on vertical cuts? Specifically longer ones. I usually would go top to bottom push, would top to bottom pull be better? Or any other combination of direction and technique
I have the Hercules corded oscillating tool from Harbor Freight. I seem to lean towards setting the blade at a 92 plunge cut and 45 to cut lines. By anchoring my backhand to the wall to steady the tool and my left hand for fine adjustment, seem to be able to get very straight lines. Love your videos sir
I've not used my multi tool that much, but have always gone with the straight on method. I never even considered side on as an option, however I could see how this knowledge will come in handy when space is an issue. Thanks for this enlightenment 😂
Thanks for another great vid! The oscillating multi tool has been a great addition to the toolbox. You made some very valid points but also what speed with blade combo depending on task at hand. The multi tool has got me out of many difficult situations.
Actually, I generally use my multitools with the blade at 30-45 degrees from front, right hand or left hand, depending on the cut to do. It gives me a better angle for many tasks.
I need help! So glad I found you. Two years in and I still cannot do my project. Project is cutting carpet to remove it then cutting nails in tack strips in concrete slab. My tool is a 25 year old Roto Zip Rebel and I have no idea if I can even buy the blades I might need. Husband said go ahead and buy a new tool. So whatever oscillating tool I buy, which blades do I need to cut carpet then cut the nails to get rid of tack strips? Thanks.
Hey Katherine, cut the carpet with a utility knife with disposable blades. The tack strips can be pried up with 16-20 oz. Hammer (rip claw style) and a 5-in-1 painters tool. Nails can be beaten down or broken off…whatever gets them flush. I hope that helps!
Even better tip the m12 fuel multi tool blows Dewalt way way out of the water Cuts faster at any angle and so much less vibration The Dewalt is exhausting ; the Fuel is a joy
It depends on the Dewalt multitool. dcs356b is great, the dcs355 is the one I have and it's the one you see on the tool channel used as a comparison. I've used M18, Makita, and Dewalt. I like the DeWalt better with how it feels in hand and the control I seems to have. The Makita is one of the shop owned tools I've used, and its fat base design makes it hard to use and clumsy feeling. My budding uses M18 tools and he would even say "You can't go wrong with Ketchup and Mustard". I'd simply put it that they are both great tool lines, and them competing so hard is a win for the consumers.
Hey, Ethan! I have to agree with you about the osculating tool and about having a straight line cut with it, I remember I used the osculating tool actually to cut a seat tube (this is where the seat post goes into.)on a bicycle for a client, due to the fact that this client was shorter. And she was having a much harder time getting herself on the saddle. So the frame size was just slightly too big for her, so I had to cut the seat tube down just a bit so that she could get onto the saddle, plus I bought a saddle that was designed for women in mind. Anyways, I was using a blade that was specific to metal and I actually did the same thing you did pushing the blade downwards with gravity, in my favor.
Very useful observations. I watched the Fein Multimaster TH-cam video and they almost always were running the tool with both hands on the tool, including several pull cuts. As far as the rotational aspect of the cutting goes, there's a reason it's called an oscillating tool.
I have this tool, and am waiting for a reason to use it. I am a DIY hobbiest and everything other than the drywall you cut, I would use a different tool for. I do not do carpenter work, but build guitars and stringed instruments. But I build a lot of jigs, cut, plain, drumsand, drill, finish etc. I got the tool on a sale for a great price and could not pass it up, and hopefully one day I will find a good use for it :) Thanks for the video!
It’s best for remodeling work, Dan! The ability to plunge cut in place is utterly priceless. It could literally shave days off of my bigger carpentry remodels 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thanks, that makes sense. I was thinking it might work for me to add a couple of outlets in my garage shop easier then using the sheetrock saw. Thanks again for showing it in action!
Wasn't looking for this subject at all (was watching your Pocket Screw videos) - but this is Very interesting. Off to try the pulling technique. Excellent content. Thanks.
This is such a fantastic tool. I have had mine for almost 2 years and I named it Rex The Wonder Tool. I used it to install a built in electric clock in my bathroom the other day and tried different ways of cuttings a wood backing plate as I was at some odd angles on the shelf I was fitting the clock into. The draw method is very good and useful. Ya kinda gotta let the tool talk to you and just try different things in different spots. Great video as you show the good and bad at various attack angles and that's the key. Don't lock in you process with this tool and go outside the box of pre-thinking on how this tool works. I put on faux foam (GenStone) stone siding on my farmhouse and got this tool mostly to cut slits in the foam upper screw mounting strips so the foam could flex with heat and cold. It did this task with such ease and speed. Drywall cuts are amazing. It can apply to so many things but almost each one needs a different application of use. Thanks for another great video on common uses for common tools. Bobby
For me the DeWalt multi tool is hard to change the blades. Being a carpenter of 40 years my hands/grip are about wore out. Great News! Rigid has came up with a clever way to lock the blades in without having to depress a lever with a spring. It has sold me. Great video
I started using one of these saws 15 years ago and I'm pretty good with it now. I use the milwaukee 18 fuel and the basic one also. I'm able to remove center of a hardwood board clean enough that my cut mimics a factory beveled edge.
I noticed you were using the multi tool cutting the wood with the tool head pointing up did you try it with the head of tool pointing down? Was there a difference? I'm floor tiler and have been using multi tool to cut bottom of architrave. Head has to point down. Allow I haven't spent much time how well it cuts, I just hold the tool whatever way it works best in confined places I.E corners
I bought an oscillating multitool in 2012 when I was refurbishing/remodeling a house built in 1945. I don't remember what angles I used the most because I used the tool more for demolition and prep work. I used many styles of blades depending on the task at hand and accessibility. They work great and saved me a lot of time on the job.
Great instructional videos! I have a question about soft wood rot. After clearing out all of the rot possible, there's always some rot that one just cannot get to easily or at all without major "surgury". My question is, although still wet and completely rotted, does the spead of that rot stop spreading to good sound wood if the entire area is allowed to simly dry out? Thank you, Mr. Honest!
hi there.. I am making branch place card holders.. putting piece in a clamp and thought the oscillating tool would be a good idea to make the slit for the place cards.. do you agree?
I am so late to the oscillating multi-tool game ... I'm only 6 months in ... this is my favorite tool hands down. I sometimes wonder how I ever lived without it in my arsenal. Cutting on the draw might just be the technique that gets that EVER IMPORTANT initial straight line perfect. Thank you. ... Also, working at an angle might be what the doctor ordered if you are in a tight spot. I don't always have that full length worth of space to maneuver in. Again ... Thanks for the tips.
True, it all depends on what needs to accomplished. When I store mine, I store the general purpose blade on the tool as shown at 4:10 until it's worn out.
True, it all depends on what needs to accomplished. When I store mine, I store the general purpose blade on the tool as shown at 4:10 until it's worn out.
I have been using the same DeWalt multi tool for years and I never knew the angle of the blade was a debate? as far as which way to cut with the tool depends solely on what you are cutting and if precision cuts are what you are after. I use mine to cut through metal or nail embedded wood. Yes practice makes perfect and yes you can get strait cut at any angle with enough practice. Like your channel thanks for sharing the tips.
Though I am old the oscillating is new to me. I’d seen it used on TV shows and just had to have one. LOVE LOVE LOVE it. As I didn’t know better, I used it with various angles depending on the cut and my positioning. I did notice right away that pulling gave me a better cut. This would have saved MUCH agrivaton in my younger years.
Pulling any type of tool towards me always feels more stable. Having a sideways cutting edge when space is tight may be useful & good to know that, thanks.
Thank goodness the blades are able to rotate. When the blades are spent I use my angle grinder (w a cutting disc) and cut new grooves. This is rough cut only but it’s a huge value and adds so much more life to the blades. Regardless of what price you’re getting them for. Also using double sided tape to hold sandpaper on old blades make a brilliant use of the tool for sneaking into random spots. Top and bottom of the surface depending on the challenge you’re facing. Cheers
Thanks! Cutting on the draw seems like a good stable method. I will try it next time I fire up the multi tool. Nice explanation of the actual motion of the tool' adapter.
The 90degrees angle cut allows for supporting the tool with your arm more easily by resting your wrist or elbow on the support to cut, especially for the first cut attempt.
Mostly I use a multi tool where access is restricted, so that controls the angle of the blade. But where I'm cutting along a wall or board, I'll have the blade out to the side so I can have part of a hand or a forearm running along or braced off the surface to give more control. End on its harder to do this.
As a multitool enthusiast, this is the best tool and will pay for itself on the first project. This tool is one of a kind. The best use for the blade rotation in my experience is depending on the location of your cut, you have the ability to change to any angle and make your job easier. And at the end of the day that’s exactly what this tool does.
It was one of your old videos of this DeWalt that convinced me to buy it. Previously I had a cheap corded multi-tool that broke and only thought it was a sander. I didn't know it could to cuts.
Ah you covered it at the end - I would say it's situational in terms of how you adjust the blade. If the pressure or cut is straight in, a plunge cut with limited travel back and forth then straight is better because the pressure is directly into the cut. If it is drywall I angle my blade around 45 degrees or so, whatever is comfortable so I can have a better more stable grip on the tool as I'm running it through my cut line. I've never really done the 90 degree method but I can see how this would be fantastic if you are doing a long horizontal cut and you want to hold it firmly and you are drawing it towards you...I guess it's all about comfort, control, pressure on the tool, and how stable you can hold it. Interesting video, thanks for the content!
I just bought the small DeWalt multitool! Now I wish I had all the accessories, too. My question is, what is the best way to get a smooth and even cut?
I need to cut out a 20x30 inch piece of damaged drywall. I am wondering which tool is best for someone with no experience. I think I would need depth control so I don't accidentally cut a stud even if I have to finish with hand saw. Ziptool or oscillating easier to control? And neither heat up causing fire risk to insulation behind it?
I always thought the blade was left to right, never realized turning it 90⁰ meant the blade actually goes side to side. Thanks for the excellent demo and explanation! -Glen
omg... i need to watch your videos on this tool! I've inherited the late husband's tools. This one's new to me!! Nice scientific approach, too! After that, on to the routers.
I'll use the blade at about 120 degrees and pulling toward me. I find it lets me brace my hand or elbow against something for better stability. But, it all depends on what I'm cutting and how much room there is.
Great understanding about the tool! Thanks for the video. I was gonna suggest a video idea.. How to adjust/tune your mitre saw to be tru and accurate. All the best!
I actually HAVE cut with the blade pointed back along the tool, in a case or two. it was a particularly restricted space. I also like the 90 degree position for vertical cutting. I also frequently cut with the blade "upside down" because it puts the blade more in line with the handle. you have to get off axis to see your line that way, but it feels more balanced.
Osilating versus reciprocating, these descriptions are self evident for alot of English speaking people. How you hold it though is up to the craftmyn. Unfortunately some folks are raised to think learning is for jerks, so that they adapt to the world around them with a shallow base of understanding. Hold the tool this way, shun the literate that way. Thanks again for sticking to the fundamentals.
I used a multitool to cut through the top layer of fiberglass in a small trailer/rv floor. This allowed me to remove rotten wood under it, replace and re-glass it back. I had to constantly change the position of the blade to fit into tight spaces, inside storage cubbies, into corners, etc. No way I could keep the blade in one position for that job. Since then I change the blade position based on comfort and ease of the cut and don't just stick to a single position.
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Pointing the blade backward is great for tool storage if you don't want to remove the blade. It compacts the tool and keeps the teeth from biting into hands, tool bags, etc.
I do exactly that, for those reasons.
But you have to remove the blade to turn it around, so it doesn't really change anything
@@jeffh4505Can't argue with that. But the next time I want to use my oscillating tool, the blade is already on the tool and not floating around somewhere in my shop.
@@jeffh4505 I inherited mine from my father in law, and the blade is held on by a screw. So I just loosen the screw, flip the blade around, and then tighten back down. Actually easier than removing the blade.
@@jeffh4505 not mine, held in by a center screw and quick release lever.
The best trick is buying blades online for roughly $1.00 each, instead of Lowes/Home Depot for around $10.00 each
That show I’ve always done it, Andy. I linked a bunch below!
Yes, true that, if you hate yourself
I buy them on line and so far they have been good. I guess it depends on the manufacturer.
These are not Harry's shaving blades
I wish I knew that before I got mine and bought blades from Homedepot 😢.Thanks for the tip.
I tend to keep my blade at about a 30° angle - just one notch off from straight - switching it from left to right depending on my access to the work. That seems to give me the best visibility and control.
It's easier that way to pull the blade into the work at a slight angle, drawing your cut line with just one side of the blade before plunging in and going to town on it.
Same here
Yeah I like the 45 degree angle cut position
Dido. Like for cutting nails between deck board and joist you can use the joist as a fence and hit all nails at the correct angle instead of searching for them with plunge cuts.
oooo i'm def gonna try this!
Thank You, That is not enough for you, you are truly amazing for doing what you do to help and inform us. I am a 60+ yr old female Diy-er, and I have learned sooooo much from you. You explain in simple, yet depth. As far as this one video, I use a multi-tool a lot, and I am so glad you did this video. How truly cool to learn all this. I have truly learned so much from you, and can't Thank you enough. You are truly a God send!!
Thanks so much, Jan! I greatly appreciate that positive feedback. And I’m really glad the videos are so helpful! 😄🙏
Truly?
The great thing about changing blade angle is for tool clearance and work position. My oscillating saws really shine when cutting drywall. Great video!
A cutting trick that I use on straight cuts is to temporarily attach another piece of wood a long the cut line using Brad nails or double sided tape. The attached piece helps guide the blade straight and square improving the cut. Additionally, changing the speed on the multitool to a lower setting helps improve the quality of the cut, especially when cutting thick pieces of wood.
I have used this exact tool for probably at least a 100 hours. I always keep it straight on and almost never turn it to 90°. Just do what feels best and you will do your best to work that way. This is a great tool for cutting out drywall.
Perfect for drywall, Dallin! I did tons of wood siding repairs with it too.
I always use mine to cut drywall anymore. It’s probably one of the most versatile tools I use. Grout removal. Fascia. Siding. Works great to remove interior wood sheeting. Excellent when you need to cut something in a pinch or in weird spaces. That’s the only time I use it on an angle.
You can save some money by sharpening or re-filing your blades as well. Fairly quickly.
Just use a small triangular file and it works like a charm!
2 years of use and I’m finding this out now!. Straight to the shed and tried it and it’s a game changer…. Thx champ
Awesome, Rob! 😁👍
It's funny how some things you take for granted that everyone knows. Like the motion of the blade, I never would have guessed that anyone would think it moved side to side. You're doing important work with these videos. Anyone unfamiliar with power tools can easily understand your format and teaching style. Kudos to you good sir!
Exactly. It obviously rotates back & forth. Not side to side. Thanks for commenting.
I could not believe it was not known it pivots (rotates) on a center axis.
Yeah. Attach to a round mount and not think rotation instead vibration
I can't believe that anyone thinks these things move from side-to-side.
I was about to comment the same thing like who wouldn't know that it didn't move side to side when its mounted on a round oscillating shaft.
With utmost respect. Your comments about the cutting action is explained in the name of the tool. Oscillating Multitool.
You may be overestimating the amount of people who know what 'oscilating' means.
Good point.
I feel bad for this guy if he's doing construction. No one ever thought it would peck if rotated to the side.
No, the definition of "oscillate" is not limited to rotational movement around a pivot. That said, I would have thought that the action of the tool was blindingly obvious from a cursory inspection of its construction.
Yeah, I was shaking my head at that whole section. I won't be watching any more of his videos.
Multi tools have come quite a ways, as well as the blades. I’m still running a 12 year old Bosch corded but I can’t seem to kill it. One piece of advise I would share is try out the carbide tipped blades; they do extremely well. Also, when choosing a multi tool understand that the degree of oscillation matters immensely in your productivity.
@@joe52428i have a cheap one too. The vibration and noise are surprisingly aggravating, so I plan to buy a much better one.
Decided to stick with corded tools years ago, when I realized that different manufacturers make different better devices, so in order to get the best performance, I would have to have a dozen different batteries. Big benefit, was saving $$$$$, plus not having an entire shelf of chargers and batteries... and of course, never running out of juice in the middle of a project.
GREAT advice!
When thinking about the "draw" first, it's like a hand saw - in that case, the teeth are positioned to cut more on the draw than the push forward. And when striking an initial groove before, it's always on the pull. Like you were saying you'd now prefer with the multi.
I would be interested in seeing this comparison with other style cutters too. I am impressed with the half moon for straight cuts.
Great video. Technique information is always welcome. I have a tip to share about using oscillating tools. DO NOT use one of these tools inside a closet full of your wife's clothes. Empty the closet first.
Heck of a tip, Mark. 😆 There will be a great deal of dust!
Don't forget the shoes and the pole the clothes are hanging on. That cost me quite a few points. 😒 Site prep is so important when doing work in situ.
I already did it, because she always leaves trash in my car😂
Great examples, particularly the pulling vs pushing and multiple points of contact. For most things, I use the half round blade which seems to allow me to not focus on the exact orientation of the blade to the work, less chatter and a straighter cut.
I normally buy DeWalt for my power tools. I was a bit broke the week I needed one to cut out some flooring trim on a permanent shelf. I bought a cheap oscillating tool from harbor freight. It was corded with an adjustable speed dial and only $30. I figured I’d only use it once. Was I wrong. It’s a wonderful tool and since it’s adjustable, I’ve even cut dash plastic with no burning or melting plastic.
I use the round, half circle blades to score a line. Then switch to the regular blade to cut through the material. Way easier than pushing that square blade at an angle
I recently used mine in a spot where the only way was straight ahead. In some situations, left or right facing might be best - or the only - way to use it. Due to the length and width of the tool, different blade orientations are needed at time, and no one direction appears "best".
As a 30+ year experience electrician who does mostly renovation electrical work the oscillating multitool is excellent. You can cut what a reciprocating saw or jigsaw can not do. Thank you for the tips on using it I am open to any ideas.
Have you seen or used the gang box blades? They are basically a rectangle blade that you can use to plunge a single gang hole in one go. They have them at harbor freight and probably some other places. Curious if you've found them effective. For me they'd seem difficult to control outside of half inch drywall.
Also a tip I like is to use grout removal blades on horsehair plaster, then switch to wood blades for the lathe. The plaster tears the wood blades up pretty quick, but the grout blades are much more durable.
Great video Ethan, thank you. I normally cut with the blade at 0 degrees for the same reason, but I find other angles like 45 or 90 degrees useful in tight spaces.
Great tests!
I always thought I was doing it wrong by working most tools towards me LOL! I always feel more control pulling towards me, I think that's why the Japanese pull hand saws are so amazing!
thin plates of metal lose stability when compressed (pushed)
"cutting on the pull" method means the blade needs to be pointed backwards 180 degrees ? and then start cutting from the far end, and pulling towards you?
Here are some useful but hard to describe insights I hope I can get across.
Curved cutting edges on blades are always better than teeth laid out in a straight line. If you can imagine the oscillating action of the tool, you can understand why. As the cutting edge travels back and forth around the fulcrum, the teeth closer to the end of a straight blade push outward just slightly but enough, depending on the length of the cutting edge, to bounce against the bottom of the cut and vibrate the tool out of your hands.
Another insight; the longer the shaft of the blade or the bigger the diameter of a round blade, the farther the cutting teeth will travel, increasing cutting speed and cut depth but stressing the motor more so lighter pressure may be warranted.
Curved blades also will clear out sawdust better. Straight edge blades push the cutting dust towards the center of the blade, if you can imagine the same phenomenon I described during the first insight.
I recently tried the 90 degree method due to necessity because of a clearance issue. I found it quite clumsy in my hands. However, I'm sure I was pushing instead of pulling. Thanks for the video!
Sure thing, Bobby! After all these years, it really was a revelation to me 😄
It wasnt the cut or the tools that was clumsy, thats was your hands.
IMO the main advantage of being able to change your angle is for clearance. It doesn't really show up in shop tests like this, but when I bust out the multitool it's almost always for awkward cuts in weird places, where getting the right access is critical.
This is why I think your channel is just great, I always learn something new, and not just new, but helpful and invariably better than the way I was doing something. It also really helps instill confidence, which is very important when doing projects!!
Thank you, Matt!
I trimmed all around the bottom of my bedroom skirting board (baseboard) using a multitool, to prepare to lay wood floor under it (removing it would have caused too much plaster damage). I found that a 45° blade angle worked best, with one hand around the front of the tool, between tool body and skirting. I had really good control of blade depth with my knuckles, giving a really good feel of when it had cut through. I think 45° helps for such long cuts because it "flows" in one cut: if you do it straight on, you make lots of short cuts that probably wobble in their horizontal angle more.
Toe kick saw at HF is about 50 bucks if you're doing more.
HF=Harbor Freight? It's a bit of a trek to the nearest one from the UK.
Also, I don't think a toe kick saw is for what I'm describing: I'm cutting horizontally under the skirting board, rather than vertically down.
Fantastic! My favorite tool and I didn't know this. I'm going to have fun this winter trying out this new method!!!
Thanks THC...you always give us tremendous information. Just proves we're never too old to learn.
Thanks Lioness!! It’s true 😄
You’ve learned why Japanese hand saws cut on the pull - much more control and ability to apply more force
One more reason, the Japanese always know how to do things better ha ha
@@edyue1roses are red, violets are blue, there is always an Asian better than you.
That's not true. The blade is significantly thinner than a western style saw which makes it easier to use as you are sawing through less material. The double hand technique is also much easier to learn as it automatically lines up your cut giving you straighter results. Western saws have a higher skill ceiling but once learnt you can get similar results. In summary, Japanese style saws given you nicer cuts but take longer, western saws are more aggressive and cut faster for the same amount of applied force but the cut is generally rougher.
@edyue1 except the entire ww2 thing... oh and nan king
Cutting a hole in a wall, fx. for outlets, I turn the blade 90 degrees, as I can rest my hand holding the tool on the wall while cutting, and it makes it easier for me to cut the line (straight or curved) more precisely and holding the tool more stable.
At least for me, as the tool is a bit heavy for me to hold stable unsupported for a longer time.
And I've gotten used to doing it this way!! And "used to" is important, as the video showed!
/Pia
I have his tool so your input helped me a lot. Your knowledge of tools is immense and spot on. I must admit though, it is pretty heavy to hold for me so prolonged cutting is uncomfortable. Blades don’t last long so there’s the cost too. All in all, it’s a great tool. Thanks for the info.
Your videos are great. I love how you usually explore or,explain alternative methods to provide reasons for one or,the other. On this,video, though, the rotating cutting arc is kind of what “oscillating” means. It usually a rotational or arch, not linear. If it was linear, it would be a vibrating cutter. Second, the reason you have more control on the draw is that you’re shortening the fulcrum. A push cut moves the fulcrum away from you, which is always less stable than closer; the same as with applied leverage. And, the instructions from the manufacturer (at least on mine) stipulates to not use the blade other than “straight.” While I’m an occasional rebel and don’t always follow instructions (shock!), but with power tools I’ve always assumed they stipulate things like this for safety and/or functional reasons.
I use the big round blades for open straight cuts. That way you can cut in lie or at 90 degrees at any time. I find that make straighter cuts easier. And the blade lasts longer since the cutting is spread out over longer area. I reserve the small straight blade for tight cuts.
I’ve just bought one of these tools and not yet used it. Thanks for your really useful and easy to understand tutorial. I would never have thought of turning the blade 90degrees.
It depends on the type of cut if it is a long cut then I find on the side pulling towards you is the best. But if it is a short cut for example cutting wall board for an outlet the straight works better. Just my opinion. Great video
Good insights, Rich! Thanks 🙂
Plunge cuts usually straight on. Anything with a side motion is either the slight angle, or the half-moon blade.
Thanks for pointing out the difference between cutting on the draw or pushing away. I’ve done both and didn’t really notice that there was a difference. But I will try to do more draw technique now when I really want a straight line.
it's the tension. when you pull the blade, the blade is in tension, making it stable. when you are pushing, the strength is pushing outwards, with the material being cut functioning like a pivot that want to throw off the blade. Same principle applies to Japanese handsaw which are pull saw and western saw which are push saw. The former immediately pull the blade in tension, giving much more control especially with the start of the cut
As the arm and elbow moves away from the body it becomes less stable and subject to wobbly movements. When the arm and elbow is pulled in towards the body, it’s more stable, and therefore better control of the saw.
The Japanese have it right
Years of experience condensed into an excellent video! I just bought a hook blade that will facilitate that desirable pull direction cut. Thank you for these helpful tips.
The *#1 reason* to use the blade straight on is....
so the cutting area is illuminated by the little LED light at the top of the multitool.
45 degrees. Straight on you have to cut at a 90 or slightly more and are torqueing your wrist the entire time.
@@MrRaptorman1975 It would be handy to have 3 LED lights:
-45°, 0°, and 45°
The manufacturing cost of the light feature is almost all in the first LED.. Two more LEDs would likely add just pennies to the cost.
@@DemPilafian I'm saying the blade is best at a 45
@@MrRaptorman1975 Yes, and I agree. I recently was cutting out some trim in a dark closet and really wished my multitool had an LED at 45° so I could see the blade.
_(Note: My original comment was a joke about the placement of the LED.)_
I wear a work headlamp.
The method of using 'pull' against 'push' is very interesting and your explanation wins the day. As previously mentioned by others - that's why Japanese saws are so accurate and efficient as pulling has a lot more control. Thanks for the video.
Hey Ethan! I switched to mostly 90 degree pull cuts about a year ago. I feel i have far better control and get cuts that are more square than using it the typical way.
Love your videos!👍
That’s cool, Bilbo! Goes to show that different techniques can totally suit different people 😄
I recently bought blades from Amazon with a slight Arc to them. They have better control and seem to last longer. I only use side cutting 4 tight spaces and actually that's what it was designed for.
With the Dewalt oscillating tool, which is the only one I’ve used, I like putting the blade at 45 degrees. Awesome video as always
Thank you, SOS! You’re the second person to say they prefer 45…I’ll have to try it more!
Great!You are absolutelly right, by default always use straight cuts, otherwise only when you need. Whats the deal with speeds? I never know when to use it fast or slow material wise?
It really depends on the circumstances of the material you're cutting. Sometimes you have to turn it to get in a tight spot. I feel like straight cutting is faster but I find it easier to brace the tool with my knuckles riding on the material, with the blade sideways.
It's always interesting to hear from other folks about stuff like this. I almost always find it easier to knuckle slide straight on...but it probably all comes down to how big your hand is, how it's shaped, how your wrist turns. Everything. That's what I like about carpentry...everybody has a slightly different way of doing it!
You should try the newest Makita one, I know it only takes Starlock blades. But the vibration is like 80% less than this Dewalt. It's also bulkier, but it's nicer to hold with two hands when cutting. I'm a newbie when using oscillating tools, but I find it much easier to keep my accuracy when vibrations are so much lower. Also, thank you for the tips on using oscillating tools, I'll use it your way from now on.
I agree about the Makita multi tool. It's one of the best tools Makita has ever produced. Superior cuts due to almost no vibration. Its aalso very quiet. I find Bosch blades stay sharp longer than others.
I've never been a fan of the multitool, but I think that's because of what you discovered about controlling it. I'm definitely going to try some of these techniques next time I use it.
You offer some of the best analysis I have seen. While it seems effortless, your word choices are very close to engineered for understanding. My compliments.
Lovely insights, great job! I usually have my blade at a 45-ish degree for clearance and visibility, but I do mostly horizontal cuts in decor building. Definitely gonna try the pull method! What's your opinion on pulling on vertical cuts? Specifically longer ones. I usually would go top to bottom push, would top to bottom pull be better? Or any other combination of direction and technique
I have the Hercules corded oscillating tool from Harbor Freight. I seem to lean towards setting the blade at a 92 plunge cut and 45 to cut lines. By anchoring my backhand to the wall to steady the tool and my left hand for fine adjustment, seem to be able to get very straight lines. Love your videos sir
I enjoy your videos and always learn from them. A true expert that can explain things clearly!! Thanks!!
Thank you, Kerry! It appreciate you watching 😄
Thanks Mister I a a sinior man and was given a multi tool and you have helped me a lot. I am from South Africa 🎉🎉
You’re welcome, Tom! Happy to hear from South Africa 🇿🇦 😄
I've not used my multi tool that much, but have always gone with the straight on method. I never even considered side on as an option, however I could see how this knowledge will come in handy when space is an issue. Thanks for this enlightenment 😂
Sure thing, Ross! Give it a try sometime…and draw the blade! 😁
Thanks for another great vid! The oscillating multi tool has been a great addition to the toolbox. You made some very valid points but also what speed with blade combo depending on task at hand. The multi tool has got me out of many difficult situations.
Actually, I generally use my multitools with the blade at 30-45 degrees from front, right hand or left hand, depending on the cut to do. It gives me a better angle for many tasks.
I need help! So glad I found you. Two years in and I still cannot do my project. Project is cutting carpet to remove it then cutting nails in tack strips in concrete slab. My tool is a 25 year old Roto Zip Rebel and I have no idea if I can even buy the blades I might need. Husband said go ahead and buy a new tool. So whatever oscillating tool I buy, which blades do I need to cut carpet then cut the nails to get rid of tack strips? Thanks.
Hey Katherine, cut the carpet with a utility knife with disposable blades. The tack strips can be pried up with 16-20 oz. Hammer (rip claw style) and a 5-in-1 painters tool. Nails can be beaten down or broken off…whatever gets them flush. I hope that helps!
Even better tip the m12 fuel multi tool blows Dewalt way way out of the water Cuts faster at any angle and so much less vibration The Dewalt is exhausting ; the Fuel is a joy
It depends on the Dewalt multitool. dcs356b is great, the dcs355 is the one I have and it's the one you see on the tool channel used as a comparison. I've used M18, Makita, and Dewalt. I like the DeWalt better with how it feels in hand and the control I seems to have. The Makita is one of the shop owned tools I've used, and its fat base design makes it hard to use and clumsy feeling. My budding uses M18 tools and he would even say "You can't go wrong with Ketchup and Mustard". I'd simply put it that they are both great tool lines, and them competing so hard is a win for the consumers.
Also there is the DCB354B. I don't know much about that one.
Hey, Ethan!
I have to agree with you about the osculating tool and about having a straight line cut with it, I remember I used the osculating tool actually to cut a seat tube (this is where the seat post goes into.)on a bicycle for a client, due to the fact that this client was shorter. And she was having a much harder time getting herself on the saddle. So the frame size was just slightly too big for her, so I had to cut the seat tube down just a bit so that she could get onto the saddle, plus I bought a saddle that was designed for women in mind. Anyways, I was using a blade that was specific to metal and I actually did the same thing you did pushing the blade downwards with gravity, in my favor.
Cool application, Marshall! I like hearing about tool usage in other trades 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter absolutely! It might surprise anyone what some tools might come in handy for.
I find it very hard to believe anyone would not know the blade moves in a very short arc
Same! Why would anyone think otherwise, idk.
I didn't have any idea, but I don't use mine much.
Seriously lol
Agree. If you have ever mounted a blade, it is obvious.
People aren't smart
Very useful observations. I watched the Fein Multimaster TH-cam video and they almost always were running the tool with both hands on the tool, including several pull cuts. As far as the rotational aspect of the cutting goes, there's a reason it's called an oscillating tool.
Talk about making a video about literally nothing. I’m impressed
lol I actually don’t know how he thought the blade slid side to side. It is pretty obvious that it’s wiggling from a central point
I'm at almost 3 minutes, waiting for him to begin to approach an answer.
Great video, thanks! What is THE BEST blade for metal (nails, thin wall pipe, drywall corners, etc)??
I have this tool, and am waiting for a reason to use it. I am a DIY hobbiest and everything other than the drywall you cut, I would use a different tool for. I do not do carpenter work, but build guitars and stringed instruments. But I build a lot of jigs, cut, plain, drumsand, drill, finish etc. I got the tool on a sale for a great price and could not pass it up, and hopefully one day I will find a good use for it :) Thanks for the video!
It’s best for remodeling work, Dan! The ability to plunge cut in place is utterly priceless. It could literally shave days off of my bigger carpentry remodels 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thanks, that makes sense. I was thinking it might work for me to add a couple of outlets in my garage shop easier then using the sheetrock saw. Thanks again for showing it in action!
Wasn't looking for this subject at all (was watching your Pocket Screw videos) - but this is Very interesting. Off to try the pulling technique. Excellent content. Thanks.
This is such a fantastic tool. I have had mine for almost 2 years and I named it Rex The Wonder Tool. I used it to install a built in electric clock in my bathroom the other day and tried different ways of cuttings a wood backing plate as I was at some odd angles on the shelf I was fitting the clock into. The draw method is very good and useful. Ya kinda gotta let the tool talk to you and just try different things in different spots. Great video as you show the good and bad at various attack angles and that's the key. Don't lock in you process with this tool and go outside the box of pre-thinking on how this tool works. I put on faux foam (GenStone) stone siding on my farmhouse and got this tool mostly to cut slits in the foam upper screw mounting strips so the foam could flex with heat and cold. It did this task with such ease and speed. Drywall cuts are amazing. It can apply to so many things but almost each one needs a different application of use. Thanks for another great video on common uses for common tools. Bobby
For me the DeWalt multi tool is hard to change the blades. Being a carpenter of 40 years my hands/grip are about wore out. Great News! Rigid has came up with a clever way to lock the blades in without having to depress a lever with a spring. It has sold me. Great video
Nice presentation Nd explaining,..also you can clamp a straight rip of a sacrificial piece and just use that to skim along for a straight cut.
I started using one of these saws 15 years ago and I'm pretty good with it now. I use the milwaukee 18 fuel and the basic one also. I'm able to remove center of a hardwood board clean enough that my cut mimics a factory beveled edge.
This was really well explained. I've always walked by this tool at the store and never knew what it was. Now I want to buy one..
I noticed you were using the multi tool cutting the wood with the tool head pointing up did you try it with the head of tool pointing down? Was there a difference? I'm floor tiler and have been using multi tool to cut bottom of architrave. Head has to point down. Allow I haven't spent much time how well it cuts, I just hold the tool whatever way it works best in confined places I.E corners
I bought an oscillating multitool in 2012 when I was refurbishing/remodeling a house built in 1945. I don't remember what angles I used the most because I used the tool more for demolition and prep work. I used many styles of blades depending on the task at hand and accessibility. They work great and saved me a lot of time on the job.
Great instructional videos! I have a question about soft wood rot. After clearing out all of the rot possible, there's always some rot that one just cannot get to easily or at all without major "surgury". My question is, although still wet and completely rotted, does the spead of that rot stop spreading to good sound wood if the entire area is allowed to simly dry out? Thank you, Mr. Honest!
It's a simple reply-wood does not rot-rot does not spread-if the wood stays dry.
hi there.. I am making branch place card holders.. putting piece in a clamp and thought the oscillating tool would be a good idea to make the slit for the place cards.. do you agree?
I am so late to the oscillating multi-tool game ... I'm only 6 months in ... this is my favorite tool hands down. I sometimes wonder how I ever lived without it in my arsenal. Cutting on the draw might just be the technique that gets that EVER IMPORTANT initial straight line perfect. Thank you.
... Also, working at an angle might be what the doctor ordered if you are in a tight spot. I don't always have that full length worth of space to maneuver in. Again ... Thanks for the tips.
Depending on what & where I’m cutting, I’ve used my multi tool in various positions. That’s just one of the reasons it’s called a multi tool. 😉
Fair, Bill…fair 😆
True, it all depends on what needs to accomplished. When I store mine, I store the general purpose blade on the tool as shown at 4:10 until it's worn out.
True, it all depends on what needs to accomplished. When I store mine, I store the general purpose blade on the tool as shown at 4:10 until it's worn out.
I have been using the same DeWalt multi tool for years and I never knew the angle of the blade was a debate? as far as which way to cut with the tool depends solely on what you are cutting and if precision cuts are what you are after.
I use mine to cut through metal or nail embedded wood. Yes practice makes perfect and yes you can get strait cut at any angle with enough practice.
Like your channel thanks for sharing the tips.
Thank you my brother I'm an electrician and I love that tool you definitely taught me something nice keep it coming
Thank you, John! I’m always happy to hear from other trades 🙂
Though I am old the oscillating is new to me. I’d seen it used on TV shows and just had to have one. LOVE LOVE LOVE it. As I didn’t know better, I used it with various angles depending on the cut and my positioning. I did notice right away that pulling gave me a better cut. This would have saved MUCH agrivaton in my younger years.
Thanks Ethan, this is great... ive juat started using mine sideways... its been great!
Blessings ❤
Awesome, Grams! Try “drawing” the cut towards you-it works great! 😄
@@TheHonestCarpenter after watching your video, that's exactly what I'm gonna do... thanks again!
Pulling any type of tool towards me always feels more stable. Having a sideways cutting edge when space is tight may be useful & good to know that, thanks.
Thank goodness the blades are able to rotate. When the blades are spent I use my angle grinder (w a cutting disc) and cut new grooves. This is rough cut only but it’s a huge value and adds so much more life to the blades. Regardless of what price you’re getting them for. Also using double sided tape to hold sandpaper on old blades make a brilliant use of the tool for sneaking into random spots. Top and bottom of the surface depending on the challenge you’re facing. Cheers
I angle the blade according to what needs to be cut and the allowable space for the tool. Isn’t that the beauty of this tool?
Very interesting on pulling the tool towards you when cutting. Ill have to give it a try!
Thanks! Cutting on the draw seems like a good stable method. I will try it next time I fire up the multi tool. Nice explanation of the actual motion of the tool' adapter.
Thank you, Gary!!
The 90degrees angle cut allows for supporting the tool with your arm more easily by resting your wrist or elbow on the support to cut, especially for the first cut attempt.
I do the straight cut or 30degrees for better alignment though.
Mostly I use a multi tool where access is restricted, so that controls the angle of the blade. But where I'm cutting along a wall or board, I'll have the blade out to the side so I can have part of a hand or a forearm running along or braced off the surface to give more control. End on its harder to do this.
As a multitool enthusiast, this is the best tool and will pay for itself on the first project. This tool is one of a kind. The best use for the blade rotation in my experience is depending on the location of your cut, you have the ability to change to any angle and make your job easier. And at the end of the day that’s exactly what this tool does.
It was one of your old videos of this DeWalt that convinced me to buy it. Previously I had a cheap corded multi-tool that broke and only thought it was a sander. I didn't know it could to cuts.
I use mine 95% for cutting! 🙂
Ah you covered it at the end - I would say it's situational in terms of how you adjust the blade. If the pressure or cut is straight in, a plunge cut with limited travel back and forth then straight is better because the pressure is directly into the cut. If it is drywall I angle my blade around 45 degrees or so, whatever is comfortable so I can have a better more stable grip on the tool as I'm running it through my cut line. I've never really done the 90 degree method but I can see how this would be fantastic if you are doing a long horizontal cut and you want to hold it firmly and you are drawing it towards you...I guess it's all about comfort, control, pressure on the tool, and how stable you can hold it. Interesting video, thanks for the content!
You remain beyond max LEGIT. Such a exceptional teacher you are
Thank you, Nick! 😄
I just bought the small DeWalt multitool! Now I wish I had all the accessories, too. My question is, what is the best way to get a smooth and even cut?
I've been using my DeWalt and Milwaukee o-tools for years and I didn't even know the blade went on sideways. Learn something new every day.
I need to cut out a 20x30 inch piece of damaged drywall. I am wondering which tool is best for someone with no experience. I think I would need depth control so I don't accidentally cut a stud even if I have to finish with hand saw. Ziptool or oscillating easier to control? And neither heat up causing fire risk to insulation behind it?
I always thought the blade was left to right, never realized turning it 90⁰ meant the blade actually goes side to side. Thanks for the excellent demo and explanation! -Glen
omg... i need to watch your videos on this tool! I've inherited the late husband's tools. This one's new to me!! Nice scientific approach, too! After that, on to the routers.
I'll use the blade at about 120 degrees and pulling toward me. I find it lets me brace my hand or elbow against something for better stability.
But, it all depends on what I'm cutting and how much room there is.
I’m think that’s a great idea, especially with a pull cut, Mike!
Great understanding about the tool! Thanks for the video. I was gonna suggest a video idea.. How to adjust/tune your mitre saw to be tru and accurate. All the best!
I have to cut overhead cement backerboard...have you done overhead cutting at the 90 degre angle?
I’ve never tried it Anthony. Might help!
I actually HAVE cut with the blade pointed back along the tool, in a case or two. it was a particularly restricted space. I also like the 90 degree position for vertical cutting. I also frequently cut with the blade "upside down" because it puts the blade more in line with the handle. you have to get off axis to see your line that way, but it feels more balanced.
Osilating versus reciprocating, these descriptions are self evident for alot of English speaking people. How you hold it though is up to the craftmyn. Unfortunately some folks are raised to think learning is for jerks, so that they adapt to the world around them with a shallow base of understanding. Hold the tool this way, shun the literate that way.
Thanks again for sticking to the fundamentals.
I used a multitool to cut through the top layer of fiberglass in a small trailer/rv floor. This allowed me to remove rotten wood under it, replace and re-glass it back. I had to constantly change the position of the blade to fit into tight spaces, inside storage cubbies, into corners, etc. No way I could keep the blade in one position for that job. Since then I change the blade position based on comfort and ease of the cut and don't just stick to a single position.