I Worked for a big Company for 11years over 2,000 trucks in the fleet. I worked from a operator up to a superintendent. I always helped the mechanics any chance possible, each oil change a few of the mechanics would always run clean oil down before putting the plug in to help push all the old oil out of the pan that may contain any contamination. This allowed for all fresh oil to circulate through out the motor. I have carried this with me ever since. I have seen these trucks be put through hell and yet still run like a champ.
I’m just a girl and after watching this video was able to change the oil on my 2017 250Super Duty. For the first time! I had always paid someone to do it before! Thanks for making my life Easier! Love from Florida
You can if your worried get the filter off first.I have had them so tight from the dealership were the just collapsed. People over tighten oil filers.A good band wrench and get it as far to the top as you can.That the strongest part.
Good video. I have one suggestion. This is something I have used for the past 25 years, changing the oil on my other F250 trucks. Before you remove the old oil filter take a punch or chisel and knock a small hole in the bottom of the filter to let the oil in the filter drain out. This way you don't have to deal with a heavy filter covered in used oil.
Great tip! I've done this before but it's inconsistent. Sometimes it drains the tubes above and sometimes it doesn't. Can't tell what's different. It is guaranteed to get the oil out of the filter though, which is a plus.
I like the replacement drain plug that accepts the hose. The easy drain. I use a scratch awl to poke a hole in the bottom of the filter. It eliminates the mess.
I do the same for my 7.3. So much easier. I am wondering why ford changed the location of the drain plug to the side of the pan instead of on the bottom like the 7.3. Seems like it would leave room for crud to accumulate. 294k trouble free miles on the 7.3, but am starting to get interested in a newer truck. Hard decision...I love my 7.3
This is the way Not the way I did it of course Na...I like to remove it while screaming hot then drop it in the oil pan that’s already almost full...ah yes oil shower for everyone.
After watching Cowlicks videos I've done all my own oil changes since new I've used Rotella T-6 and the Best Royal Purple filter....also I added the fantastic FOMOTO quick valve... Another Cowlick exclusive indeed....humor me I change oil every 3500 miles....my 2017 F-250 6.7 is stored Winters and waxed often. I am blessed in retirement... again high five to Cowlick....
Rotella T6 is now approved for the Ford 6.7L. It's good oil. And that valve is really easy and works best when the oil is HOT. Drains much faster. Changing oil at 3500 miles is a bit overkill but to each their own. I'm with you in that changing oil and waxing often is just plain old fun!
Ran a very similar product on my old 2007 F350, and then on my 2012 F250... never had a single issue with leaks of any cause so I put one on my 2017 F250 KR. I have loved having it on so much I have one on each of my vehicles now... the wife's, my two kids, and my Jeep Wrangler. Wouldn't have it any other way. You'll be very happy with it!
I'm not sure if you will be monitoring the comments on this video as it's a little old, but when removing your oil filter use a larger zip lock baggie to put around your filter when removing will keep the mess to a minimum. Just be careful not to let go otherwise it can be extremely messy.
I was going to make a video myself , and just seen yours . Very nice and detailed simply put. great job, one thing I did not see coming ,or like may be the addition of the easy drain plug. great in theory ,but need to check oil with a mag once drained . there is supposed to be a small magnet on the tip of drainplug to alert of metal in oil from excessive wear or problems . thank you, I do not have to make video myself.
When I change my filter, I put a large size ziplock bag over the filter and then I take it out. It saves the mess and you can still see what the filter is doing and don’t have to worry about dropping it in the used oil pan 👍
Any worries about road debris bouncing up and opening that quick release on the drain plug? I personally would be terrified about dumping 13qts all over town.
That question has definitely been on my mind. If you look at the position of the lever on the valve it's behind the oil pain and up a little bit. Pretty sure nothing is going to get up in there and unlock and turn that thing. These have been out for a long time and satisfaction ratings are high. Figured I'd give it a shot.
EpicCowlick I like the idea of the quick valve but I would worried about it developing a slow leak or something or someone opening it.. Do they make one with a threaded outlet? So you can put a cap on it to protect against leaks? I work around all kinds of valve and it WILL leak someday..
Spoken by experience. lol. Yes, I'm sure given enough time they can leak. Lots of people really like them though and I'll always have the OEM drain plug on the top shelf of the tool box. They do make some plugs exactly like you describe. They also have 90 degree hose nipples too so the oil can drain straight down instead of straight back. Lots of options.
I know this is an older video, but I wanted to say thank you for sharing. I installed the EZ Drain Valve, and am quite excited to have an easy change next time. I am forward to more of your videos!
It doesn't hurt anything to do that. The problem is that the 2051S filters have a silicone anti-drainback valve that prevents oil in the lines above the filter from draining back into the filter. You can punch a hole and empty the filter but a bunch of oil is still held in the lines above. It's hit and miss. Sometimes you get lucky and everything drains through the filter penetration but other times it's not so lucky. Check my video called "punching the filter" for an example.
When I change oil ,I have a 10gal. tote and take off the filter first letting it drop into the empty tote then drain the engine oil. Very little splash if any. I use Shell Rotalla syn.
next time punch a hole in the used oil filter and let that drain out and then unscrew and it wont be as messy and also I would be using Motorcraft oil until the power train warranty is up.
The hole punching hasn't been working lately. Drains only the filter but not the hoses above. No need to use Motorcraft oil, it just has to be CJ4 spec and Mobile 1 is a premium brand.
Ford actually recommends that the new gen. 6.7 psd uses Motorcraft oil, check out powerstrokehelp on TH-cam that will explain a lot more than what I can explain but in all honesty it's a lot of typing and I'm not up for that.....but beautiful truck you have and I can't wait for more videos you post on it
got to love the drain valves, makes changing the oil so much easier. Dont know who invented them, but some one is making good money from a very very useful invention.. Nicest thing about the drain is you put your little hose on the end and you can drain into the pan or some old jugs etc and take the old oil to be recucyled
In March 2017, Ford recently came out with a new motor oil spec for the 6.7 liter diesel. It’s: WSS M2C171 F1. Unless the diesel motor oil you select states on its label that it meets this spec, you could be harming your engine. This last time I checked, Mobile 1 does not comply.
That's true. The oil used in this video was the last of my inventory of pre-CK4 spec. It was just plain CJ4 full synthetic. And yes, I don't understand why Mobil1 won't meet the Ford spec or why Ford won't approve it. Who knows? Regardless, I used Rotella T6 when I ran out of Mobil1 and have been since. All good.
Awesome video sir just bought a 2012 6.7 f450. Little trick I learned from my motorcycles that have sideways facing oil filters punch a hole in the bottom or you can lightly drill a hole in the bottom at all that oil drain out of that filter before you take it off makes a huge difference
Thanks , I used to change my Cummings fuel filter every other oil change . But it just cost 10.00 and took maybe 5 minutes. This ford cost 75 and will take a while to change it seems with 2 of them
Drain valve is handy, the oil drain plug has a small magnet in it, or used to, to catch any metal fragments in the oil. One check for early issues of engine issues. I know major flakes will be seen in the oil, point is to find it before it’s enough flakes to see in the oil.
This is the reason a magnet is placed on the bottom of the pan close to the drain valve. It holds the tiny wear particles before flushing. It's not as convenient as looking at the bottom of the plug but you can let the oil settle and see how much metal is in there.
Epic, a couple of things. First, thank you for the very helpful videos. I'm looking forward to seeing the fuel filters changed. As to CK oil, it did not pass the Ford tests--other viewers should proceed cautiously. Second, I'm an old guy and only recently learned that the oil film on the filter gasket is to make the rubber slippery so it doesn't bunch. I always thought it had something to do with sealing (I guess it sort of does.) Regards, JD in TN
@@EpicCowlick according to ford you can run 15w40 if you are above like 7* F I believe is what they say but 15w40 completely okay to run especially in hotter places in the US
I really liked those Drain Valves, but they always seemed to leak a little bit. When it came time to sell my vehicle, potential buyers were concerned about the leak, so I ended up putting the drain plug back in the last time I changed the oil before selling it. The leak was never much, but it was enough to get the potential buyers attention.
I've got various brands of CJ-4 oil sitting around, some I won't use anymore. Basically cause they're 15/40 and I use the full synthetic 5W/40 now. But they still find a use every oil change. After draining, and with the drain plug still out, I pour a quart of this still new oil through the engine and allow it to also drain into the pan. Flushes out the last of the black oil at the bottom of the pan, and keeps the oil you changed looking newer slightly longer. Yeah, it's still gonna turn black, but just not as quickly as before.
That is true with the current Mobil1 oil. The oil used in the video was some of the last pre-CK4 and was actually approved for the Ford 6.7. Weird that Mobil1 won't certify for the Ford spec. I've been using Rotella T6 for the last 3.5 years.
I've done that in the past but have kind of given up on it. Punching drains the oil inside the filter ok but there's still all the oil in the plumbing above the filter. Sometimes that drains and sometimes it doesn't. I'll have to try it again next time.
I put that value on my truck what a life saver. 2' hose to a 5 gal pale no mess for the pass 3 oil changes thanks for that idea. P.s. are u still doing videos
Nice video. It empowers me to do my own oil changes. I was thinking you would use teflon tape on those treads for gate valve but I know very very little about auto mechanics. I am a cabinet maker / trim carpenter and metal doesn't agree with me. Unless I am shown so I don't have to learn every step the hard way. Thanks again
Thanks, it's super easy and a big money saver. No Teflon tape necessary. The valve has a rubber o-ring built into it to create a leak-proof seal. You can just see it if you look closely.
Mobil1 is not on the list. The oil used in the video was the last of the old approved formulation. Can't get it anymore. I've been using Rotella T6 for the last 4 years.
Thanks Last couple of times had my oil changed at the dealer and I questioned if they done the job got home and check the level and oil was just as black as before. I thought it would look clean for a few miles so I changed it this time just to see the difference guest I'm use to cars, this is my first diesel.
Diesel oil is notorious for being the same color as the depths of hell. Next time just pull the dipstick before you leave and you'll see glimpses of clean oil. That's your last opportunity until the next oil change. It's always going to be the blackest shade of black.
Just watched your video and noticed when you wiped the drain hole off you rubbed off the O ring that was stuck on the pan you unthreaded the drain plug right out of the O ring
Is there not a need to change the upper end oil where the fuel injectors are located like on the older diesels? It looked pretty intense...I'm planning on getting a new truck soon and was looking at the advantages of the new 6.7 compared to the last generation. Thanks, Mark
There's only one filter and it was shown in the video. The only thing in the engine compartment is the fill cap and dip stick. It's a really easy oil change. It's exact same for this 2017 back through year 2012. In 2011 it's the same except for a special plastic oil plug. You'll love it if you get one.
always good entertaining.. haha.. cheers Oh, I recommend safety wiring that quick change lever in the closed position. Avoid possible disaster, or sabotage.
I hear you. It's a little disconcerting having that thing so accessible. But that's the whole point of the valve after all. The valve has a pretty stiff spring and a metal indentation that the lever sits in. It takes a very specific motion to move it.
Good catch, the drain valve does not have a magnet. I placed a neodymium magnet on the pan right where the oil exits. It's a much stronger magnet and all that needs to be done is to remove it before draining. Any buildup will wash away with the draining oil.
@@42kjackson Yeah, that's the pitch. I'm pretty suspicious of those kinds of claims though. Ford does sell cetane booster so there must be something there.
Real question is with these stay in your car $30 oil changes are we even saving money ? I am a heavy equipment tech and I’ve always done my own vehicles services, but the oil alone usually cost more than the jiffy lube type places now days with their bulk oil and connivence? I ask bc I started sending my wife to get hers done at local lube place simply saves me some time and cheaper I believe .. still won’t let anyone touch one of my cars but myself I just don’t know if it’s cheaper these days good skill to teach your sons/daughters of course but are we saving anything or spending more to do the work at this point ? Love to hear from some of y’all out there who have looked at the numbers
The quick lube places are cheap, but they're setup to gouge in one way or another. Poor quality oil and always pushing some extra service or filters or something. The sign on the front of the building is never what it seems to be.
Your truck sits really tall so that you can get under it without ramps, makes changing oil a little easier. I had a Chevy wagon with the vertical filter way in the back, I always spilled some trying to get it out.
No problems at all. I've learned that it's best to change oil when the engine is at full operating temp when the oil is at about 190 degrees. It drains much faster through the tube. About a third the time of when the engine is cold.
Could you show me link where Mobil one diesel oil is 100% poa. Cause all I have found is that Mobil one rotella t6 and basically all of them are highly refined base crude oil with additives.
The oil comes out pretty fast with just the drain plug. Maybe a minute could be saved on the last 100 ml or something? Not worth the effort for me when it's so easy to move around under the truck as it is. The EZ Valve takes a full 20 mins to drain cold oil and about 5 mins when the oil is hot (195 degrees).
Oil filters on 6 liter trucks are much easier and neater to replace. B.T.W. what mileage interval do you change your oil and filter. I decided that since it costs me at least $120 per oil change for the oil and filter I change my oil around 10,000km. I do light duty work so I think I am good.
I'm changing whenever the truck tells me to. I'm expecting about every 7,500. It was weird that the truck prompted at only 4,000 miles for this first one.
+EpicCowlick Thanks for the video. It would be good to know if the 4000 mile change is specified just for the first change. Is the 7500 mile interval a distance stated in their literature?
The 2017 has an "Intelligent" oil life monitor as opposed to the previous version. It can now factor in mileage, temperatures, time at pressure and even fuel dilution. This is not a complete description as there are other factors also. It was a surprise to get the change notification at just over 4,000 miles as I was expecting more. If you read the forums people are getting the notifications anywhere up to about 9,000 miles. Time will tell what my average will be but I'm expecting somewhere in the 7,000 range.
Thank you for the info. As I read other posts, I see someone saying he routinely changes at 5000 for the benefit of the engine. I have been reviewing the 2017 F350 with a Diesel as a replacement for my 3/4 ton gas powered truck. Is the amount and frequency of oil changes the largest maintenance premium of Diesels relative to gas engines?
Did that on the last oil change due to a comment like yours. It was awesome. In 30 years of oil changes, I never figured that out. Hard to change old habits I guess. From now on, FILTER FIRST!
Hi there again. From your knowledge, did Ford changed the required oil as you mentioned in the video? You used the Mobil 1, are you going to do oil change and filter every 5 k miles or you recommend 10K based on the oil you used??? Thank you so much.
I'm getting close to the fuel filter change. Truck is at 23,000 miles and I think the message will come on at 25,000. I've always waited for the truck to tell me it's time to do it.
Oil flows smoother out of the containers if you have the cap as high as possible (in other words, handle down, cap up) because it lets oxygen back into the container, instead of it slopping out... could prevent a mess at some point in the future.
I have a question about the Oil Life Monitor. Is there a place you can see where the Oil Life Monitor is currently at? Like 15% left? I have a 2017 F350 DRW Lariat. I have 6000 miles on the truck and have never got the alarm to change the oil.. Kinda making me wonder if my truck has the monitor.
The truck does not show oil life remaining on the standard screens. You can get monitoring software like FORScan or Torque Pro and use an OBDII bluetooth adapter to see exactly that and much, much more.
Great video! I gotta ask, how tough was it to move on from your 2011 Super Duty? I liked your customization videos and was 'mirin that Titan Tank and On-Board Air.
There was a little bit of anxiety letting it go. It was setup just the way I needed it but the 2017 gives me a chance to do it all over again. It's an amazing piece of engineering.
I got rid of a 2015 KR for the 17. I loved the 15 but something just kept it from feeling " complete". I drove all three major brand diesel's and the Nissan. The Nissan took less than a mile to dismiss. I can say in my opinion, this is the closest thing to a "complete" truck I've been in and FINALLY a 48 Gallon tank
Thank you for doing the video. When resetting the computer it just resets. Does it give you an option to set the number of miles to be notified for your next change?
After an oil change, the computer must be reset manually. The oil change warning is calculated based on how a person drives including idle time, percentage of fuel in oil, etc.
When it comes to cars like my Volkswagen they used to call for 5w40 but now the same engine for some strange reason calls for 5w30. It really isn't that strange if you know that the EPA has something to do with it, lighter oil to reduce fuel consumption. I always use 5w40 and never had any ill effects at all. A lot of times you can get away with using a slightly heavier oil and some people who do say that the engine runs smoother too. I am not sure if those ones made a switch to or from synthetic but they do say it runs smoother after that.
I don't have any experience with the additives and use Shell Rotella T6 since Mobil 1 is not approved by Ford. The quality synthetics are really marvels of chemical engineering. Changing them at appropriate intervals is probably the best thing that can be done.
Still there and still working. It works really well when the engine is really hot. It drains in about the time it takes to remove and reinstall a new filter. I punch a hole in the center of the filter before removing it so it drains and prevents (mostly) oil coming over the top of the filter. I've since added one to my wife's explorer with a tube permanently attached. Then I drilled a 2 inch hole in the plastic pan so I can get to the drain plug lever. THAT is a huge winner.
API CJ-4 is a general type of oil meant for diesel engines. Ford's requirements are specific for the high horsepower 6.7L engine and listed on the WSSM2C171F1 spec sheet. Notably absent is Mobil1's 5W40. Shell's Rotella T6 is approved and available almost everywhere. It's a good, relatively cheap oil.
do you always go by the computer telling you to change the oil? I don't drive my 6.7 everyday and sometimes it goes 6+ months before it says I need an oil change. Does the length of time of it sitting in the truck matter as much as the mileage?
So how come you switched away from rotella t6 full synthetic. And I didn't see on that list you out in other comment I didn't see that Mobil 1 or rotella make the cut is that right ?
That other list is the approved CK-4 oil formulations. Neither Mobil 1 or Rottella T6 have a formulation on the market yet. I switched from T6 years ago because it wasn't a true base 4 synthetic. They marketed it as full syn but it was a blend. That made me switch back to Mobile 1 and I never went back. I think T6 is now a 100% base 4 syn now.
Group 4 or Poly-alpha-olefin (or poly-α-olefin, abbreviated as PAO) is a polymer made by polymerizing an alpha-olefin. They are designated at API Group 4 and are a 100% synthetic chemical compound. API Group 3 base oils are sometimes considered Fully synthetic, but they are still classified as highest-top-level mineral-base stocks.
Mobil delvac 5w-40 best oil I've used in all my years. Runs smoother than T6. Have 2015 f250 fx4 get about 20-22 highway at 65mph. Love the truck. If I were to tow every single day then the Cummings I6 would be a better choice and more reliable. Keep up the vids
It doesn't and I kind of wonder about that. I'm thinking I"ll just put a rare earth magnet on the drain pan right next to the valve and it will stop any ferrous particles. Then I just pull off the magnet when I change the oil and it will flush everything out.
Yes, it's those graphite-like particles that get past the filter and hopefully get attached to the magnet. Thanks for bringing that up because I just went out in the garage and put a 1 inch neodynium magnet on the pan right next to the valve. That will work a ton better than the drain plug. It's an upgrade!
3 gallons = 12 quarts. so yes, 3 gallons plus one quart. Having said that, put in 3 gallons and run the engine for a minute and wait a few minutes. then check the dipstick. You will see the oil level is within the hash marks indicating level is "full". The additional 13th quart may not be necessary.
@@tonyrivera3285 It's not on Ford's approved WSS-M2C171-F1 list. That would keep me from using it. Interestingly, Mobil 1's CK4 isn't either. I've switched to Rotella T6. Cheap and approved.
@@tonyrivera3285 Anything off of Ford's approved list should be ok. www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/additionalinfo/dieseloilsWSSM2C171F1.pdf I always use full synthetic 15W40 due to it's high heat and low cold performance. The new Ford 6.7L runs about 10 degrees hotter than the previous version and it's not unheard of to see oil temps at 245 when towing hard and heavy. I also see temps below zero in the winter so synthetic is really a must.
Yes, I pulled the fifth wheel for a few hundred miles. I'll bet my driving a lot through deep snow racked up more sever service miles though. I'll just go by whatever the computer recommends.
I Worked for a big Company for 11years over 2,000 trucks in the fleet. I worked from a operator up to a superintendent. I always helped the mechanics any chance possible, each oil change a few of the mechanics would always run clean oil down before putting the plug in to help push all the old oil out of the pan that may contain any contamination. This allowed for all fresh oil to circulate through out the motor. I have carried this with me ever since. I have seen these trucks be put through hell and yet still run like a champ.
I’m just a girl and after watching this video was able to change the oil on my 2017 250Super Duty. For the first time!
I had always paid someone to do it before! Thanks for making my life Easier! Love from Florida
Glad it helped!
nice 😀
No such thing as "just" a girl. Well unless you're on the Titanic while its sinking then maybe!
Never attempted to ever change my own oil. After watching this I feel pretty confident I can now in my 6.7 as well. Nice vid 👍
You can if your worried get the filter off first.I have had them so tight from the dealership were the just collapsed. People over tighten oil filers.A good band wrench and get it as far to the top as you can.That the strongest part.
Good video. I have one suggestion. This is something I have used for the past 25 years, changing the oil on my other F250 trucks. Before you remove the old oil filter take a punch or chisel and knock a small hole in the bottom of the filter to let the oil in the filter drain out. This way you don't have to deal with a heavy filter covered in used oil.
Great tip! I've done this before but it's inconsistent. Sometimes it drains the tubes above and sometimes it doesn't. Can't tell what's different. It is guaranteed to get the oil out of the filter though, which is a plus.
I like the replacement drain plug that accepts the hose. The easy drain. I use a scratch awl to poke a hole in the bottom of the filter. It eliminates the mess.
I punch a hole in my oil filter and let oil drain out the filter before removing it.
I do the same for my 7.3. So much easier. I am wondering why ford changed the location of the drain plug to the side of the pan instead of on the bottom like the 7.3. Seems like it would leave room for crud to accumulate. 294k trouble free miles on the 7.3, but am starting to get interested in a newer truck. Hard decision...I love my 7.3
This is the way
Not the way I did it of course
Na...I like to remove it while screaming hot then drop it in the oil pan that’s already almost full...ah yes oil shower for everyone.
After watching Cowlicks videos I've done all my own oil changes since new I've used Rotella T-6 and the Best Royal Purple filter....also I added the fantastic FOMOTO quick valve...
Another Cowlick exclusive indeed....humor me I change oil every 3500 miles....my 2017 F-250 6.7 is stored Winters and waxed often. I am blessed in retirement... again high five to Cowlick....
Rotella T6 is now approved for the Ford 6.7L. It's good oil. And that valve is really easy and works best when the oil is HOT. Drains much faster. Changing oil at 3500 miles is a bit overkill but to each their own. I'm with you in that changing oil and waxing often is just plain old fun!
Ran a very similar product on my old 2007 F350, and then on my 2012 F250... never had a single issue with leaks of any cause so I put one on my 2017 F250 KR. I have loved having it on so much I have one on each of my vehicles now... the wife's, my two kids, and my Jeep Wrangler. Wouldn't have it any other way. You'll be very happy with it!
That's what I'm hoping for. The first oil change went off without a drip. So far so good.
I'm not sure if you will be monitoring the comments on this video as it's a little old, but when removing your oil filter use a larger zip lock baggie to put around your filter when removing will keep the mess to a minimum. Just be careful not to let go otherwise it can be extremely messy.
I was going to make a video myself , and just seen yours . Very nice and detailed simply put. great job, one thing I did not see coming ,or like may be the addition of the easy drain plug. great in theory ,but need to check oil with a mag once drained . there is supposed to be a small magnet on the tip of drainplug to alert of metal in oil from excessive wear or problems . thank you, I do not have to make video myself.
The drain valve for the oil looks good but could be better with a dust cap.
Why?
Over thinking it
I came to ask why as well.
@@raulm4529 it will fill with dirt/mud etc
When I change my filter, I put a large size ziplock bag over the filter and then I take it out. It saves the mess and you can still see what the filter is doing and don’t have to worry about dropping it in the used oil pan 👍
I've heard the same but haven't tried it myself. Any plastic bag that doesn't leak will do.
Any worries about road debris bouncing up and opening that quick release on the drain plug? I personally would be terrified about dumping 13qts all over town.
That question has definitely been on my mind. If you look at the position of the lever on the valve it's behind the oil pain and up a little bit. Pretty sure nothing is going to get up in there and unlock and turn that thing. These have been out for a long time and satisfaction ratings are high. Figured I'd give it a shot.
EpicCowlick I like the idea of the quick valve but I would worried about it developing a slow leak or something or someone opening it.. Do they make one with a threaded outlet? So you can put a cap on it to protect against leaks? I work around all kinds of valve and it WILL leak someday..
Spoken by experience. lol. Yes, I'm sure given enough time they can leak. Lots of people really like them though and I'll always have the OEM drain plug on the top shelf of the tool box. They do make some plugs exactly like you describe. They also have 90 degree hose nipples too so the oil can drain straight down instead of straight back. Lots of options.
Yes, I would worry about it if I did much off road work.
Amen. Run over a stump with some branches still on it and see what all can happen...
Got a part number for the EZ drain plug?
I know this is an older video, but I wanted to say thank you for sharing. I installed the EZ Drain Valve, and am quite excited to have an easy change next time. I am forward to more of your videos!
My valve is still working great. It drains really fast when the engine oil is HOT. Really slow if cold... ;)
@@EpicCowlick did you ever worry about the valve rusting or corroding at all from salt on the roads?
Would it be all right to poke a hole with an awl or something in the filter to let it drain out the bottom before removing it?
It doesn't hurt anything to do that. The problem is that the 2051S filters have a silicone anti-drainback valve that prevents oil in the lines above the filter from draining back into the filter. You can punch a hole and empty the filter but a bunch of oil is still held in the lines above. It's hit and miss. Sometimes you get lucky and everything drains through the filter penetration but other times it's not so lucky. Check my video called "punching the filter" for an example.
When I change oil ,I have a 10gal. tote and take off the filter first letting it drop into the empty tote then drain the engine oil. Very little splash if any. I use Shell Rotalla syn.
next time punch a hole in the used oil filter and let that drain out and then unscrew and it wont be as messy and also I would be using Motorcraft oil until the power train warranty is up.
The hole punching hasn't been working lately. Drains only the filter but not the hoses above. No need to use Motorcraft oil, it just has to be CJ4 spec and Mobile 1 is a premium brand.
Ford actually recommends that the new gen. 6.7 psd uses Motorcraft oil, check out powerstrokehelp on TH-cam that will explain a lot more than what I can explain but in all honesty it's a lot of typing and I'm not up for that.....but beautiful truck you have and I can't wait for more videos you post on it
No problem. Thanks.
Ryan Starke my oil is changed by ford and they use mobile one as well.
i just picked up a 2017 F250 6.7 and my Owners Manual say's 15 quarts of oil
Nice video. Very straight forward and helpful. Thanks for posting.
got to love the drain valves, makes changing the oil so much easier. Dont know who invented them, but some one is making good money from a very very useful invention.. Nicest thing about the drain is you put your little hose on the end and you can drain into the pan or some old jugs etc and take the old oil to be recucyled
Fumoto is the original maker. This EZ Drain model is a knockoff. I'm really looking forward to the next change to try it out.
In March 2017, Ford recently came out with a new motor oil spec for the 6.7 liter diesel. It’s: WSS M2C171 F1. Unless the diesel motor oil you select states on its label that it meets this spec, you could be harming your engine. This last time I checked, Mobile 1 does not comply.
That's true. The oil used in this video was the last of my inventory of pre-CK4 spec. It was just plain CJ4 full synthetic. And yes, I don't understand why Mobil1 won't meet the Ford spec or why Ford won't approve it. Who knows? Regardless, I used Rotella T6 when I ran out of Mobil1 and have been since. All good.
Awesome video sir just bought a 2012 6.7 f450. Little trick I learned from my motorcycles that have sideways facing oil filters punch a hole in the bottom or you can lightly drill a hole in the bottom at all that oil drain out of that filter before you take it off makes a huge difference
Great tip!
Thanks , I used to change my Cummings fuel filter every other oil change . But it just cost 10.00 and took maybe 5 minutes. This ford cost 75 and will take a while to change it seems with 2 of them
Drain valve is handy, the oil drain plug has a small magnet in it, or used to, to catch any metal fragments in the oil. One check for early issues of engine issues. I know major flakes will be seen in the oil, point is to find it before it’s enough flakes to see in the oil.
This is the reason a magnet is placed on the bottom of the pan close to the drain valve. It holds the tiny wear particles before flushing. It's not as convenient as looking at the bottom of the plug but you can let the oil settle and see how much metal is in there.
Epic, a couple of things. First, thank you for the very helpful videos. I'm looking forward to seeing the fuel filters changed.
As to CK oil, it did not pass the Ford tests--other viewers should proceed cautiously.
Second, I'm an old guy and only recently learned that the oil film on the filter gasket is to make the rubber slippery so it doesn't bunch. I always thought it had something to do with sealing (I guess it sort of does.)
Regards, JD in TN
I stocked up on about two years worth of CJ4. Hopefully this thing gets resolved by then. I DO NOT want to put a zero weight oil in this engine.
Yes sir it’s so you don’t pinch or roll the gasket or “seal” it does help in removal of filter later but piled gasket always more malleable than dry
@@EpicCowlick according to ford you can run 15w40 if you are above like 7* F I believe is what they say but 15w40 completely okay to run especially in hotter places in the US
@@ozzmann3217 yes but if you do that they recommend oil change every 3,000 miles per owners manual.
I really liked those Drain Valves, but they always seemed to leak a little bit. When it came time to sell my vehicle, potential buyers were concerned about the leak, so I ended up putting the drain plug back in the last time I changed the oil before selling it. The leak was never much, but it was enough to get the potential buyers attention.
The early versions used gaskets and these now use O rings. No leaks and if they do it's a quick fix. I still really like them.
I've got various brands of CJ-4 oil sitting around, some I won't use anymore. Basically cause they're 15/40 and I use the full synthetic 5W/40 now. But they still find a use every oil change. After draining, and with the drain plug still out, I pour a quart of this still new oil through the engine and allow it to also drain into the pan. Flushes out the last of the black oil at the bottom of the pan, and keeps the oil you changed looking newer slightly longer. Yeah, it's still gonna turn black, but just not as quickly as before.
Mobil tech services says that the Turbo oil you are using is NOT recommended for the Ford 6.7. Mobil said I should use Delvac ESP. Check it out.
That is true with the current Mobil1 oil. The oil used in the video was some of the last pre-CK4 and was actually approved for the Ford 6.7. Weird that Mobil1 won't certify for the Ford spec. I've been using Rotella T6 for the last 3.5 years.
Love the idea of the oil drain valve!!
What size for 2012 F250?
Never thought of getting a valve. Genius. Bought it. Thanks for the link.
No problem 👍
That’s A Nice Pickup!
just a small tip on your oil filter, poke a hole in the oil filter and drain it before you remove it. a lot less messy. good video, nice truck.
I've done that in the past but have kind of given up on it. Punching drains the oil inside the filter ok but there's still all the oil in the plumbing above the filter. Sometimes that drains and sometimes it doesn't. I'll have to try it again next time.
Epic, can you link to the drain valve you have? Thanks!
I would be using Ford recommend motor craft oil too .
wanting to get a 2017 king ranch. love how detailed your videos are!!
You will absolutely love that new truck.
I put that value on my truck what a life saver. 2' hose to a 5 gal pale no mess for the pass 3 oil changes thanks for that idea. P.s. are u still doing videos
Glad it's working out for you. I have those valves on all my vehicles now. And yes, I'll make a video when something interesting comes up. Been busy.
What oil are you going to use after Mobil 1 starts adding ck 4 to their oil? Keep up the good work and take care. You have a bless day.
Nice video. It empowers me to do my own oil changes. I was thinking you would use teflon tape on those treads for gate valve but I know very very little about auto mechanics. I am a cabinet maker / trim carpenter and metal doesn't agree with me. Unless I am shown so I don't have to learn every step the hard way. Thanks again
Thanks, it's super easy and a big money saver. No Teflon tape necessary. The valve has a rubber o-ring built into it to create a leak-proof seal. You can just see it if you look closely.
IS it just me - or is that Mobil 1 (which is what i use in my other vehicles) not listed on the ford approved oil list?
Mobil1 is not on the list. The oil used in the video was the last of the old approved formulation. Can't get it anymore. I've been using Rotella T6 for the last 4 years.
Thanks Last couple of times had my oil changed at the dealer and I questioned if they done the job got home and check the level and oil was just as black as before. I thought it would look clean for a few miles so I changed it this time just to see the difference guest I'm use to cars, this is my first diesel.
Diesel oil is notorious for being the same color as the depths of hell. Next time just pull the dipstick before you leave and you'll see glimpses of clean oil. That's your last opportunity until the next oil change. It's always going to be the blackest shade of black.
Just watched your video and noticed when you wiped the drain hole off you rubbed off the O ring that was stuck on the pan you unthreaded the drain plug right out of the O ring
You're the first person to notice that! I put it back on the OEM plug later. Found it in the pan when I drained it.
thanks for taking the time to make the video I enjoyed it.
We're can I go by that valve for the oil pan .the open & closed valve
Is there not a need to change the upper end oil where the fuel injectors are located like on the older diesels? It looked pretty intense...I'm planning on getting a new truck soon and was looking at the advantages of the new 6.7 compared to the last generation. Thanks, Mark
There's only one filter and it was shown in the video. The only thing in the engine compartment is the fill cap and dip stick. It's a really easy oil change. It's exact same for this 2017 back through year 2012. In 2011 it's the same except for a special plastic oil plug. You'll love it if you get one.
can you do a video on how to do a fuel filter change on the new super duty?
When the time comes of course.
Is that drain plug only for a F250 or any oil pan. I have a 2006 Ford Explorer and wanted to put this on my truck.
They're available for most all vehicles of all types.
@@EpicCowlick Thanks for the reply. I went to their website and saw all the make and models and what sizes fits what so I ordered one.
always good entertaining.. haha.. cheers
Oh, I recommend safety wiring that quick change lever in the closed position. Avoid possible disaster, or sabotage.
I hear you. It's a little disconcerting having that thing so accessible. But that's the whole point of the valve after all. The valve has a pretty stiff spring and a metal indentation that the lever sits in. It takes a very specific motion to move it.
Did the oil pan plug replacement also have a magnet? I know factory plugs usually do.
Good catch, the drain valve does not have a magnet. I placed a neodymium magnet on the pan right where the oil exits. It's a much stronger magnet and all that needs to be done is to remove it before draining. Any buildup will wash away with the draining oil.
Hey you ever thought about adding/using archoil to your oil???
Never have. Is there a benefit to using it in a relatively low mile engine?
@@EpicCowlick from what I hear, the archoil oil additive fixes most injector problems, aids in cold starts and slight increase in power
@@EpicCowlick they also have a fuel additive. It increases mpg, lubricate fuel injectors and pump and also helps decrease soot levels.
@@42kjackson Yeah, that's the pitch. I'm pretty suspicious of those kinds of claims though. Ford does sell cetane booster so there must be something there.
Looked like you did not have a gasket on your new drain?? I have the same one and there should be a green gasket.
This valve has an O ring instead of a gasket. If you look closely, you'll see it.
How much liter of oil for Ford have duty 6.7 disal needs??
12.3 L
Do you fill the filter then add 13 more quarts? Or measure what you put in filter then fill the rest of it until 13 quarts total?
13 quarts total
Thanks for showing us the process, sure helped.
Real question is with these stay in your car $30 oil changes are we even saving money ? I am a heavy equipment tech and I’ve always done my own vehicles services, but the oil alone usually cost more than the jiffy lube type places now days with their bulk oil and connivence? I ask bc I started sending my wife to get hers done at local lube place simply saves me some time and cheaper I believe .. still won’t let anyone touch one of my cars but myself I just don’t know if it’s cheaper these days good skill to teach your sons/daughters of course but are we saving anything or spending more to do the work at this point ? Love to hear from some of y’all out there who have looked at the numbers
The quick lube places are cheap, but they're setup to gouge in one way or another. Poor quality oil and always pushing some extra service or filters or something. The sign on the front of the building is never what it seems to be.
Where did you get the drain plug?
That easy drain doesn't look like it will let as much oil out as the factor plug.
That's going to slow things down a little. It probably flows half the oil.
nice video. will be purchasing a 350 or 450 soon and wanted to know some good tips. the EZ valve is a nice add on. definitely will be purchasing it.
Your truck sits really tall so that you can get under it without ramps, makes changing oil a little easier. I had a Chevy wagon with the vertical filter way in the back, I always spilled some trying to get it out.
It's true and something I probably take for granted. It's nice to be able to slide around underneath without jacking it first.
Have you had any issues with the drain. Any leaks? Thanks
No problems at all. I've learned that it's best to change oil when the engine is at full operating temp when the oil is at about 190 degrees. It drains much faster through the tube. About a third the time of when the engine is cold.
Do you clean your towels?
Could you show me link where Mobil one diesel oil is 100% poa. Cause all I have found is that Mobil one rotella t6 and basically all of them are highly refined base crude oil with additives.
And from what I can tell they are both base 3 with additives
Would it make a difference to drive the front end up onto some ramps to aid in draining?
The oil comes out pretty fast with just the drain plug. Maybe a minute could be saved on the last 100 ml or something? Not worth the effort for me when it's so easy to move around under the truck as it is. The EZ Valve takes a full 20 mins to drain cold oil and about 5 mins when the oil is hot (195 degrees).
Oil filters on 6 liter trucks are much easier and neater to replace. B.T.W. what mileage interval do you change your oil and filter. I decided that since it costs me at least $120 per oil change for the oil and filter I change my oil around 10,000km. I do light duty work so I think I am good.
I'm changing whenever the truck tells me to. I'm expecting about every 7,500. It was weird that the truck prompted at only 4,000 miles for this first one.
+EpicCowlick Thanks for the video. It would be good to know if the 4000 mile change is specified just for the first change. Is the 7500 mile interval a distance stated in their literature?
The 2017 has an "Intelligent" oil life monitor as opposed to the previous version. It can now factor in mileage, temperatures, time at pressure and even fuel dilution. This is not a complete description as there are other factors also. It was a surprise to get the change notification at just over 4,000 miles as I was expecting more. If you read the forums people are getting the notifications anywhere up to about 9,000 miles. Time will tell what my average will be but I'm expecting somewhere in the 7,000 range.
Thank you for the info. As I read other posts, I see someone saying he routinely changes at 5000 for the benefit of the engine. I have been reviewing the 2017 F350 with a Diesel as a replacement for my 3/4 ton gas powered truck. Is the amount and frequency of oil changes the largest maintenance premium of Diesels relative to gas engines?
I see Ford got rid of that that plastic 3/8" driver drain plug that they had on the previous year 6.7 PSD.
+FROGMAN524 They only made the for two years I think. Folks must not have like them. I did though.
anyone notice he wiped away the o-ring @ 3:17 ?
Good eye. I put it back on the factory plug and into the box. The drain valve has its own o-ring.
ford said you could continue to use cj4 until it's depleted but they have there own part number for the oil already
Yeah, they are supposed to come out with a final position statement in April. I stocked up on enough to get me by for two years.
I always change the fuel filters and the air filter when I change the oil on my Diesel engine
I remove the oil filter first into my empty 8 gal. tote then drain the oil . I find it less messy!
Did that on the last oil change due to a comment like yours. It was awesome. In 30 years of oil changes, I never figured that out. Hard to change old habits I guess. From now on, FILTER FIRST!
Using all the required specs on the oil and filter, is Ford allowing you to do your own oil change and keep the warranty???
2018 F-250
Just save your receipts and keep a record of your oil changes. Ford cannot deny your warranty if you change it properly on your own.
Hi there again.
From your knowledge, did Ford changed the required oil as you mentioned in the video?
You used the Mobil 1, are you going to do oil change and filter every 5 k miles or you recommend 10K based on the oil you used???
Thank you so much.
What Mud Flaps are you running? and do you have any problem's with rubbing with your 37s
do you have a video on fuel filters change? and how often do you change yours i have a 2018 F-350 6.7 diesel
I'm getting close to the fuel filter change. Truck is at 23,000 miles and I think the message will come on at 25,000. I've always waited for the truck to tell me it's time to do it.
Did your F350 come with the tire pressure monitoring option.
Yes. Tire pressure is displayed on the dash for each tire.
Oil flows smoother out of the containers if you have the cap as high as possible (in other words, handle down, cap up) because it lets oxygen back into the container, instead of it slopping out... could prevent a mess at some point in the future.
Pro tip. Thanks.
EpicCowlick You're welcome! I learned the hard way...
That's why they make the jugs that way.
You like that mobile over rotella ?
I stopped using T6 a few years ago when I found it it was not a true base 4 synthetic. I think they are now but I just keep buying the Mobile 1.
I’m confused. You put one and a quarter gallons of oil in but that doesn’t equal 13 quarts. Am I missing something? Shouldn’t it be 3.25 gallons?
Those are 4 quart containers. Pour in three gallons plus a quart from the 4th container.
nice work. i'll do it myself moving forward , video gave me a wind of confidence
Hey Epic ... dud you add 13 qts on top of the oil you poured into filter ?
Nope
I'm looking forward to more videos on the 2017 Ford.. I liked the train horn install on your last truck!
I have a question about the Oil Life Monitor. Is there a place you can see where the Oil Life Monitor is currently at? Like 15% left? I have a 2017 F350 DRW Lariat. I have 6000 miles on the truck and have never got the alarm to change the oil.. Kinda making me wonder if my truck has the monitor.
The truck does not show oil life remaining on the standard screens. You can get monitoring software like FORScan or Torque Pro and use an OBDII bluetooth adapter to see exactly that and much, much more.
This new 17 will get a oil change every 5000 miles just like the rest of my diesel's in the past may be a over kill but better safe then sorry lol
Great video! I gotta ask, how tough was it to move on from your 2011 Super Duty? I liked your customization videos and was 'mirin that Titan Tank and On-Board Air.
There was a little bit of anxiety letting it go. It was setup just the way I needed it but the 2017 gives me a chance to do it all over again. It's an amazing piece of engineering.
I got rid of a 2015 KR for the 17. I loved the 15 but something just kept it from feeling " complete". I drove all three major brand diesel's and the Nissan. The Nissan took less than a mile to dismiss. I can say in my opinion, this is the closest thing to a "complete" truck I've been in and FINALLY a 48 Gallon tank
Thank you for doing the video. When resetting the computer it just resets. Does it give you an option to set the number of miles to be notified for your next change?
After an oil change, the computer must be reset manually. The oil change warning is calculated based on how a person drives including idle time, percentage of fuel in oil, etc.
@@EpicCowlick thanks. Is there an average amount of mileage you get?
@@SteveK99Sub 18-19 highway, 14-15 around town, 10 towing.
@@SteveK99Sub I drive more in town and occasionally freeway. Avg for me is 13 after correction for the 37 inch tires.
@@EpicCowlick Thanks.. I was wondering how many miles you get between oil changes..
What size wrench? That is the entire reason to watch not in the video
OEM plug is a 5/8 hex head. A 17mm will do in a pinch.
When it comes to cars like my Volkswagen they used to call for 5w40 but now the same engine for some strange reason calls for 5w30. It really isn't that strange if you know that the EPA has something to do with it, lighter oil to reduce fuel consumption. I always use 5w40 and never had any ill effects at all. A lot of times you can get away with using a slightly heavier oil and some people who do say that the engine runs smoother too. I am not sure if those ones made a switch to or from synthetic but they do say it runs smoother after that.
What are your thoughts on Lucas Oil - Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer and replacing 1 qt of oil with it? 2019 Power Stroke still under warranty.
I don't have any experience with the additives and use Shell Rotella T6 since Mobil 1 is not approved by Ford. The quality synthetics are really marvels of chemical engineering. Changing them at appropriate intervals is probably the best thing that can be done.
Give us an update on the drain plug you installed
Still there and still working. It works really well when the engine is really hot. It drains in about the time it takes to remove and reinstall a new filter. I punch a hole in the center of the filter before removing it so it drains and prevents (mostly) oil coming over the top of the filter. I've since added one to my wife's explorer with a tube permanently attached. Then I drilled a 2 inch hole in the plastic pan so I can get to the drain plug lever. THAT is a huge winner.
EpicCowlick 👍
The 2019 6.7 liter owners manual oil spec is wss-m2c171-f1 but the cap says use API CJ-4 what to use ?
API CJ-4 is a general type of oil meant for diesel engines. Ford's requirements are specific for the high horsepower 6.7L engine and listed on the WSSM2C171F1 spec sheet. Notably absent is Mobil1's 5W40. Shell's Rotella T6 is approved and available almost everywhere. It's a good, relatively cheap oil.
What keeps road or trail debris from opening the valve and dumping your oil?
The lever is spring loaded and rests in a knotch. It takes a very specific motion to open it. I have them on all my cars now and love them.
do you always go by the computer telling you to change the oil? I don't drive my 6.7 everyday and sometimes it goes 6+ months before it says I need an oil change. Does the length of time of it sitting in the truck matter as much as the mileage?
wideopenmx850 the computer goes by idle and mileage dealer recommends going by that indicator
wideopenmx850 I have full confidence in the Ford engineers. Some folks change more frequently but I don't think it's necessary.
So how come you switched away from rotella t6 full synthetic. And I didn't see on that list you out in other comment I didn't see that Mobil 1 or rotella make the cut is that right ?
That other list is the approved CK-4 oil formulations. Neither Mobil 1 or Rottella T6 have a formulation on the market yet. I switched from T6 years ago because it wasn't a true base 4 synthetic. They marketed it as full syn but it was a blend. That made me switch back to Mobile 1 and I never went back. I think T6 is now a 100% base 4 syn now.
EpicCowlick what is base 4 syn
Group 4 or Poly-alpha-olefin (or poly-α-olefin, abbreviated as PAO) is a polymer made by polymerizing an alpha-olefin. They are designated at API Group 4 and are a 100% synthetic chemical compound. API Group 3 base oils are sometimes considered Fully synthetic, but they are still classified as highest-top-level mineral-base stocks.
Mobil delvac 5w-40 best oil I've used in all my years. Runs smoother than T6. Have 2015 f250 fx4 get about 20-22 highway at 65mph. Love the truck. If I were to tow every single day then the Cummings I6 would be a better choice and more reliable. Keep up the vids
does that draining valve have magnet like the original plug
It doesn't and I kind of wonder about that. I'm thinking I"ll just put a rare earth magnet on the drain pan right next to the valve and it will stop any ferrous particles. Then I just pull off the magnet when I change the oil and it will flush everything out.
Supposed to but have you ever noticed that the metals most of the time are so fine the look like sludge or graphite....
Yes, it's those graphite-like particles that get past the filter and hopefully get attached to the magnet. Thanks for bringing that up because I just went out in the garage and put a 1 inch neodynium magnet on the pan right next to the valve. That will work a ton better than the drain plug. It's an upgrade!
So it’s 3 gallons plus one quart?
3 gallons = 12 quarts. so yes, 3 gallons plus one quart. Having said that, put in 3 gallons and run the engine for a minute and wait a few minutes. then check the dipstick. You will see the oil level is within the hash marks indicating level is "full". The additional 13th quart may not be necessary.
EpicCowlick thank you! What do you think of adding delo 15w40 on a 2018 F250 6.7
@@tonyrivera3285 It's not on Ford's approved WSS-M2C171-F1 list. That would keep me from using it. Interestingly, Mobil 1's CK4 isn't either. I've switched to Rotella T6. Cheap and approved.
EpicCowlick thank you for the information. So what about 10w30? Which do you recommend?
@@tonyrivera3285 Anything off of Ford's approved list should be ok. www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/additionalinfo/dieseloilsWSSM2C171F1.pdf
I always use full synthetic 15W40 due to it's high heat and low cold performance. The new Ford 6.7L runs about 10 degrees hotter than the previous version and it's not unheard of to see oil temps at 245 when towing hard and heavy. I also see temps below zero in the winter so synthetic is really a must.
Just wondering if you did any towing only 4000 miles for the first oil change...
JD
Yes, I pulled the fifth wheel for a few hundred miles. I'll bet my driving a lot through deep snow racked up more sever service miles though. I'll just go by whatever the computer recommends.
EpicCowlick can you adjust at what oil life percentage you want the change oil message to come up? I know you can with some of the f150s.
Ok I remember you had a fifth wheel from a previous video, thanks.
Another tip is to put a freezer bag over filter after it it is loose.
Your videos are awesome! Keep up the good work.
Exactly what I do on my 7.3. Makes life much less messy.
good vid. At What elevation do you live? Noticed cool mountains in the background in some of your vids.
4,500 feet above sea level. The mountains you see are 9,500 feet at the peaks.
Where did you get that easy drain valve part # or link to website. Thanks like that idea
Check Amazon for "EZ DRAIN"
How many miles do you guys change oil? I've always been a gas dude and change mine every 3000. I was told it was more for diesels.
I change when the truck tells me to. It's about every 7,000 miles.
We use All Case IH oil
Where do you get that valve for the oil pan?
Video and link is on the channel.
Is the link the one you bought for your 6.7
Affirmative
What size thread for the oil drain valve?? I have a 2017 f-250 6.7L as well
The part number is in the video description.