A bag of masonry cement and soft sand. Mix it up to about the consistancy of drywall mud and trowel it on , then use a big sponge to smooth it out. It will have a kind sandy texture when done.
60 grit sandpaper to remove the hairs....then you need to stucco it.....trowel it on and dap with course sponge for a stipple effect....or skip trowel it for a plaster look.....
I think you should be really proud of what you've accomplished here. It's not easy to do something "the first time". I'm glad to see you got some help & that you showed your mistakes. I've had plenty of help over the years and I always learn a truckload from others. Good on you!
That reminds me when I got a locate done for my gas line, dude said the same thing, “ah don’t worry it’s 18” down” First time I drove the spade in pishhhh and I smelled gas! It was 2” down 🤣🤣
You’re an awesome brave lady Melissa I’m amazed at all the work that you’ve done. So my tip would be to use La Habra stucco mix you can spread it with a sponge trial in circular motions And the way I see it. It’s no big deal for you because you’re so smart. We love you be blessed and prosper.❤
Go to DrinkLMNT.com/WelcometotheWoods for your free sample pack with any purchase from our sponsor! You will love it! Thanks everyone for watching, I can't wait to keep working on this project and show you my final design.
Have watched you do your projects for years. Always getting great ideas from your projects! In this video I am surprised that they let you build a permanent structure over the gas line. I'm not sure if this is your service for your house or a neighbors. That being said, a safety note for your viewers for future reference when working around gas lines. First rule, never assume with natural gas lines. If you are there when they do the locates ask if they can tell you approximately how deep the line is. If they can give you a depth, this is an estimate. When they mark the gas line with the flags, this is also an estimate, it will be close but I have personally seen gas lines marked several feet off of where the line was actually at. There are many factors that can cause issues. Other services, i.e., water service, sewer. On Poly service lines they run a tracer wire, because poly cannot be picked up by the locating equipment. A tracer wire is a copper wire run in the ditch with the poly pipe. It will not be exactly over the center of the poly service line. It will be in the ditch and an indicator that, the service line is in this general area. A service line, feeding a house will be low pressure. Low pressure meaning the main at the road could be 30 to 40 PSIG for example. When it gets to your house it will be regulated down to water column. 40PSIG doesn't sound like much until you poke a hole in it. Key note here is never assume that your natural gas line is exactly where the yellow paint mark is. It will be close, how close? Sometimes on the money, other times, not so much. Be cautious. The gas line, depending on how old your neighborhood is will be either steel or "poly". Steel is stronger if impacted. If you hit the steel though it does have a protective coating on the pipe. If you damage the coating, the steel will rust, it will leak eventually. The "Poly" pipe can be pierced if impacted. It is quite durable, will not rust but it is basically, plastic. Just really good plastic. Gas lines, low pressure, high pressure, pipelines have depth codes. There may be variations by states. Minimum depth for my state on a low pressure gas line service is 18 inches. All of the people I work with when doing new installs follow this and are usually deeper, slightly. Again, however, depending on the age of your neighborhood and this is the kicker, depending on who installed the service, way back when, erosion and other factors, I have personally seen service lines just below the roots of the grass. When you were driving the rebar into the ground I was cringing with every strike of the hammer. In my profession, I have seen A LOT of stuff. Thank you for the great content and look forward to your future projects!
I did this last year and it was challenging working alone. Im getting ready to do the facing. Your fibreglass cement is too thin, the fibreglass supposed to be 1/4"-1/2" thick to embed into the mix. But I'll be using Sakrete surface bonding cement/stucco. The good news is your project isnt ruined. you can always stucco over your project as many times as you want. Very nice job btw!
I think it looks good, sure was a lot of hard work. Once it there for a while, in the weather, it might even out in color and be just fine. Once it's planted, it will take away from the block, won't be as obvious. Good job - nicely done!
How fast kids grow 👶👧. I did this to a very large planter many years ago. Of course, the tools were not what you had used. I used an old very thick contractors brush to slather it on. On the back side of it I had to use a broom because I could not reach it and too heavy to move. I just used concrete mix without gravel. It worked out nicely. 💙
I absolutely love watching this channel and wish I had half the creativity and drive this girl has. I think a quick easy solution to the "fuzzies" would be a grinding stone and water to knock them down followed by either paint or another skim coat without the fiber. I really like where this project is going and look forward to what you come up with
like most mention below stucco is the way to fix that. The fibers will be a bonus as they will help to hold the stucco to the wall. Im a little worried that we didnt see any drainage added (holes through block and a gravel base to cover). Also, the wood you filled with as it decomposes will gas off and I worry it will be bad for your plants. Always love watching you try new projects and learn new skills.
Check out huegelkultur, there seems to be now concern with off gassing, and it retains water better. One small study even showed that there could be higher nitrogen content for the plants.
For being able to see the seem, I would cheat and add a third layer where you do just that section until the 90 degree inner turn. It may still be another shade(3rd shade) but each complete section will be solid and it is much harder for the eye to see the difference in a corner especially with the shade hitting that corner. You might not even notice. That would be the cheapest and least work option to try. fix, I think.
Maybe try doing a “stucco“ style skim coat. I did one on my cement block foundation. Depending upon how you mix up the material. You could make it as smooth or rough as needed. I went with a rougher style to match with. They did originally on my 1918 Era house in Nebraska. It also hides the imperfections if you have a rougher coat. Just like your interior drywall walls
I think it looks amazing plus you learned a new skill, always a plus. You might look in to stucco. I also wonder if you could now grind/sand it and then use a thick block filler paint.
A weed burner will get the fiberglass threads off. Then smooth with sander (maybe) or small grinder. Then apply a microtopping with steel trowel. Definitely something that takes some practice to get it to look right.
Torch /burn the fibers off - scrape or sand to knock off the burnt bits and then put a thick paint coat or two to hide the seams (we use traffic coating paint on horizontal surfaces)
Awesone project once again! Can't wait to see how you solve the issue. Don't stress about it I'm sure whatever you come up with will work out just fine. My wife and I love to sit back and watch you work your magic while we have a few cold ones! lol 🍻Is that a smokeless fire pit? Does it really work? Man I hope so because my wife says fire pit smoke gets all up in her hair! lol Keep up the great work!!
Could you use a belt sander and sand them off, and then use a heavy coat of paint that's made for cement in whatever color you like, even a cement gray color?
First of all the looks fantastic despite some of minor imperfections mentioned in the video. Is it possible in some way to sand or smooth out your finally layer of concrete/fiberglass?
if you dont want to use sandpaper you might try pressure washing it to remove hairs or maybe even a flame wand to burn them off. Whatever you use it has to be thick or you will still see the roughness and hairs. Maybe the person that said stucco is right. Maybe your money is better spent having a pro do it. It was really nice for your daughter to help, its hard to get kids to work now days and its nice to see she does not mind helping 😁
Your wall is defiantly not ruined. If you're looking for a modern appearance, start by cleaning the wall thoroughly to remove any dirt, debris, or loose mortar. After cleaning, wet the wall down with some water. Mix the parging material. It's typically a blend of Portland cement, sand, and water, to a creamy consistency. Then apply the mixture evenly to the wall using a trowel, working from the bottom up in smooth, even strokes, and ensure a consistent layer of about 1/4 inch thick. Finish by smoothing the surface with a trowel for a sleek, contemporary look, and allow it to cure properly before any additional treatments or painting.
That’s hilarious. I’m sure you could hire out instead lol or ask her to help you so she understands the work it takes. Make it a partner activity. Good luck ! It’s hard being a man at times.
Well done for getting on and giving it a go, but as an English bricklayer...ouch! And as I can also plaster double ouch! If I was your neighbour I'd help out.
I'm not sure whether you can find this (or a similar product) where you live, but here in Australia we have Dulux Roll-on Acratex. It can be applied by roller. You might want to sand off some of the worst of those fibres beforehand.
Don’t feel bad about not having block skills. It takes a lifetime, just like a bunch of skill sets. It’s not worth a lifetime of laying blocks for one project. The fact that you can run an angle grinder is proof enough that you have skills. That puts you ahead of 90 percent of men or women.👏👏👏
I DIY most things at my spread but I leave concrete to the experts. It’s heavy, messy and the consequences for mistakes are big so I leave it to the professionals.
I think I would’ve done the raised beds with wood. Then plastered or concreted over it. That way it easier to dismantle one day. This seems super permanent.
I don’t think that idea would withstand the weather in Minnesota more than a few months. The ground freezes and thaws and heaves with frost. Wood also decays in contact with soil and ground treated wood is poisonous for plants. Cedar is really the only wood recommended to build planters with which is extremely expensive in my area and only lasts about 8 years before rotting when in contact with soil. I can’t imagine coating cedar which is a gorgeous high end wood with concrete. How would the concrete adhere to something that breathes? It would surely crack and fall off quickly.
Out comes the biggest concrete grinder disk you can find to smooth it out. I wonder if it would work to skim it like a shower wall with furring strips?
The project came out great! The finish imperfection is only a small fail. I'm sure the solution will be found somewhere in the comments. Not this one though! 😄
You're not building an antitank fortification! Just did a demo of my old bbq island. Previous owners built it using the same idea - full size cinder blocks, 1/2 inch rebar, concrete fill almost every hole and right next to the fence. Budget a few days and a chiropractic - or a few thousand for demo/hauling when you get tied of the beds. I hope you can still reach the fence for whatever maintenance
Not sure something as thin as paint will get the fibers to lay down but if I could get the fibers off maybe I could paint the concrete to get rid of the line where you can see the two different batches I used. Thanks for the input!
I'd say use a tiger torch to burn off the fiberglass fibers, than either concrete paint. Or if you want more work, than stucco. But you may have to apply a mesh for the stucco, so try concrete paint first? That will even out the color for sure.
I love the diy spirit. I tried redoing a garden bed with blocks and had a hard time getting level. I did alright with a bucket of fine sand. This is something id like to try.
Im a plasterer. I carved many stucco projects at Disney. May i suggest that you contact John, your mason. He should know a plasterer and /or a local plasterer. It’s an easy fix for them in just a couple of hours. Or call the local union for a volunteer. The finish is your choice, hand texture, roll on texture, or spray texture knockdown. Or sand finish. It’s just two walls. Keep up your good work, and especially intense mason work will keep you healthy in the long run. I know at 75 years here in Florida. If you go to Orlando see some of my work at Animal Kingdoms ‘Tree of Life.’
That's awesome that your neighbor took the time to help you!
Well I paid him lol
@@WelcometotheWoodsBlog oh, well that works too 😂😂
A bag of masonry cement and soft sand. Mix it up to about the consistancy of drywall mud and trowel it on , then use a big sponge to smooth it out. It will have a kind sandy texture when done.
Oh good call!
60 grit sandpaper to remove the hairs....then you need to stucco it.....trowel it on and dap with course sponge for a stipple effect....or skip trowel it for a plaster look.....
I think you should be really proud of what you've accomplished here. It's not easy to do something "the first time". I'm glad to see you got some help & that you showed your mistakes. I've had plenty of help over the years and I always learn a truckload from others. Good on you!
Blow torch to melt off the fiber, and then concrete paint over it all to the color you want.
This is the answer.
A little hand held propane torch, not a steel cutting torch.
very ambitious! i watched this video then got off the couch and continued working on my diy project!
That reminds me when I got a locate done for my gas line, dude said the same thing, “ah don’t worry it’s 18” down”
First time I drove the spade in pishhhh and I smelled gas! It was 2” down 🤣🤣
Brilliant idea using the sled to move the sod. I swear pound for pound you get more work done than anyone I know. Nice work.
You’re an awesome brave lady Melissa I’m amazed at all the work that you’ve done.
So my tip would be to use La Habra stucco mix you can spread it with a sponge trial in circular motions
And the way I see it. It’s no big deal for you because you’re so smart. We love you be blessed and prosper.❤
What a work horse! A true Clydesdale!
She is awesome!!!
Go to DrinkLMNT.com/WelcometotheWoods for your free sample pack with any purchase from our sponsor! You will love it! Thanks everyone for watching, I can't wait to keep working on this project and show you my final design.
You'll figure it out. The rendering of your concept looked super cool. Nice work!
Have watched you do your projects for years. Always getting great ideas from your projects! In this video I am surprised that they let you build a permanent structure over the gas line. I'm not sure if this is your service for your house or a neighbors. That being said, a safety note for your viewers for future reference when working around gas lines.
First rule, never assume with natural gas lines. If you are there when they do the locates ask if they can tell you approximately how deep the line is. If they can give you a depth, this is an estimate. When they mark the gas line with the flags, this is also an estimate, it will be close but I have personally seen gas lines marked several feet off of where the line was actually at. There are many factors that can cause issues. Other services, i.e., water service, sewer. On Poly service lines they run a tracer wire, because poly cannot be picked up by the locating equipment. A tracer wire is a copper wire run in the ditch with the poly pipe. It will not be exactly over the center of the poly service line. It will be in the ditch and an indicator that, the service line is in this general area.
A service line, feeding a house will be low pressure. Low pressure meaning the main at the road could be 30 to 40 PSIG for example. When it gets to your house it will be regulated down to water column. 40PSIG doesn't sound like much until you poke a hole in it. Key note here is never assume that your natural gas line is exactly where the yellow paint mark is. It will be close, how close? Sometimes on the money, other times, not so much. Be cautious.
The gas line, depending on how old your neighborhood is will be either steel or "poly". Steel is stronger if impacted. If you hit the steel though it does have a protective coating on the pipe. If you damage the coating, the steel will rust, it will leak eventually. The "Poly" pipe can be pierced if impacted. It is quite durable, will not rust but it is basically, plastic. Just really good plastic. Gas lines, low pressure, high pressure, pipelines have depth codes. There may be variations by states. Minimum depth for my state on a low pressure gas line service is 18 inches. All of the people I work with when doing new installs follow this and are usually deeper, slightly. Again, however, depending on the age of your neighborhood and this is the kicker, depending on who installed the service, way back when, erosion and other factors, I have personally seen service lines just below the roots of the grass.
When you were driving the rebar into the ground I was cringing with every strike of the hammer. In my profession, I have seen A LOT of stuff. Thank you for the great content and look forward to your future projects!
I did this last year and it was challenging working alone. Im getting ready to do the facing. Your fibreglass cement is too thin, the fibreglass supposed to be 1/4"-1/2" thick to embed into the mix. But I'll be using Sakrete surface bonding cement/stucco. The good news is your project isnt ruined. you can always stucco over your project as many times as you want. Very nice job btw!
I think it looks good, sure was a lot of hard work. Once it there for a while, in the weather, it might even out in color and be just fine. Once it's planted, it will take away from the block, won't be as obvious. Good job - nicely done!
How fast kids grow 👶👧. I did this to a very large planter many years ago. Of course, the tools were not what you had used. I used an old very thick contractors brush to slather it on. On the back side of it I had to use a broom because I could not reach it and too heavy to move. I just used concrete mix without gravel. It worked out nicely. 💙
I absolutely love watching this channel and wish I had half the creativity and drive this girl has. I think a quick easy solution to the "fuzzies" would be a grinding stone and water to knock them down followed by either paint or another skim coat without the fiber. I really like where this project is going and look forward to what you come up with
like most mention below stucco is the way to fix that. The fibers will be a bonus as they will help to hold the stucco to the wall. Im a little worried that we didnt see any drainage added (holes through block and a gravel base to cover). Also, the wood you filled with as it decomposes will gas off and I worry it will be bad for your plants. Always love watching you try new projects and learn new skills.
Check out huegelkultur, there seems to be now concern with off gassing, and it retains water better. One small study even showed that there could be higher nitrogen content for the plants.
You are a very hard worker. Good job! 👏🏻
It's fix with very Thick Cement mixer with liquid waterproof in it 🙋🙋✨✨
stucco. it can go on vertical walls, just get a stucco adhesive to mix in before you apply
Very impressive! I think stucco probably gives you the smooth surface that you are looking for and it is easier to work with.
I think it looks great!!! A little paint and you will be fine. The fibers give it character!
For being able to see the seem, I would cheat and add a third layer where you do just that section until the 90 degree inner turn. It may still be another shade(3rd shade) but each complete section will be solid and it is much harder for the eye to see the difference in a corner especially with the shade hitting that corner. You might not even notice.
That would be the cheapest and least work option to try. fix, I think.
Maybe try doing a “stucco“ style skim coat. I did one on my cement block foundation. Depending upon how you mix up the material. You could make it as smooth or rough as needed. I went with a rougher style to match with. They did originally on my 1918 Era house in Nebraska. It also hides the imperfections if you have a rougher coat. Just like your interior drywall walls
I think it looks amazing plus you learned a new skill, always a plus. You might look in to stucco. I also wonder if you could now grind/sand it and then use a thick block filler paint.
Torch. Burn the fibers off then stain the concrete.
beautiful as always💥❤❤
All that sod digging is a big drag. Great work.
A weed burner will get the fiberglass threads off. Then smooth with sander (maybe) or small grinder. Then apply a microtopping with steel trowel. Definitely something that takes some practice to get it to look right.
You have to feed the plants Nitrogen like crazy until those logs decompose. Nice work.
Torch /burn the fibers off - scrape or sand to knock off the burnt bits and then put a thick paint coat or two to hide the seams (we use traffic coating paint on horizontal surfaces)
That’s a Good Sturdy Woman 👍🏽🤣🤪 Johnathan Brandmeier. WLUP-FM 👍🏽🍺👍🏾😎
I know you are currently dealing with an issue, but I think it’s going to look amazing! Looks great so far, less the fibers.
Awesone project once again! Can't wait to see how you solve the issue. Don't stress about it I'm sure whatever you come up with will work out just fine. My wife and I love to sit back and watch you work your magic while we have a few cold ones! lol 🍻Is that a smokeless fire pit? Does it really work? Man I hope so because my wife says fire pit smoke gets all up in her hair! lol Keep up the great work!!
Next time, use Mortar Mix and the Concrete Bonding Adhesive. It's cheaper and works better than those other products.
Burn the fibers with a torch, then paint with masonry paint grey
Could you use a belt sander and sand them off, and then use a heavy coat of paint that's made for cement in whatever color you like, even a cement gray color?
Legit use of the kid's sled. Work smarter not harder!
Blowtorch will take care of the fibres.
When you are going to stucco you should rub the block joints instead of striking them, usually pros just use a chunk of styrofoam
First of all the looks fantastic despite some of minor imperfections mentioned in the video. Is it possible in some way to sand or smooth out your finally layer of concrete/fiberglass?
Agree with the torch method. Then just a concrete paint should be enough to cover the "ugly". Great box though.
Fantastic content!
if you dont want to use sandpaper you might try pressure washing it to remove hairs or maybe even a flame wand to burn them off. Whatever you use it has to be thick or you will still see the roughness and hairs. Maybe the person that said stucco is right. Maybe your money is better spent having a pro do it. It was really nice for your daughter to help, its hard to get kids to work now days and its nice to see she does not mind helping 😁
It's lovely. Paint that part. It will be invisible, especially if you put a bench and pillows in front of it. Only you will know.
Ur a super girl doing such work and its perfect
Your wall is defiantly not ruined. If you're looking for a modern appearance, start by cleaning the wall thoroughly to remove any dirt, debris, or loose mortar. After cleaning, wet the wall down with some water. Mix the parging material. It's typically a blend of Portland cement, sand, and water, to a creamy consistency. Then apply the mixture evenly to the wall using a trowel, working from the bottom up in smooth, even strokes, and ensure a consistent layer of about 1/4 inch thick. Finish by smoothing the surface with a trowel for a sleek, contemporary look, and allow it to cure properly before any additional treatments or painting.
Could you use a parging solution? What they cover house foundations to give it a more appealing look
Screw in some cedar fence boards so you can eliminate the cold look of concrete and warm it up with some wood.
My wife also has lots of ideas, but the diff is that she expects me to do it. Melissa's husband is the luckiest man in the world
Well man up😂
That’s hilarious. I’m sure you could hire out instead lol or ask her to help you so she understands the work it takes. Make it a partner activity. Good luck ! It’s hard being a man at times.
I thought the exact same thing. Melissa is like a super woman.
That’s what being a husband means. But it’s nice to do the projects together.
Perhaps you could try to sand it to a smooth finish (light sanding) and then use some concrete paint.
stucco is the way to go, in my humble opinion...
Well done for getting on and giving it a go, but as an English bricklayer...ouch! And as I can also plaster double ouch! If I was your neighbour I'd help out.
I'm not sure whether you can find this (or a similar product) where you live, but here in Australia we have Dulux Roll-on Acratex. It can be applied by roller. You might want to sand off some of the worst of those fibres beforehand.
Maybe use a torch to melt the fiberglass and do another skim coat after?
Don’t feel bad about not having block skills. It takes a lifetime, just like a bunch of skill sets. It’s not worth a lifetime of laying blocks for one project. The fact that you can run an angle grinder is proof enough that you have skills. That puts you ahead of 90 percent of men or women.👏👏👏
I DIY most things at my spread but I leave concrete to the experts. It’s heavy, messy and the consequences for mistakes are big so I leave it to the professionals.
OUTSTANDING ; o .....
Stucco is what you wanna apply on top of that.
I think I would’ve done the raised beds with wood. Then plastered or concreted over it. That way it easier to dismantle one day. This seems super permanent.
I don’t think that idea would withstand the weather in Minnesota more than a few months. The ground freezes and thaws and heaves with frost. Wood also decays in contact with soil and ground treated wood is poisonous for plants. Cedar is really the only wood recommended to build planters with which is extremely expensive in my area and only lasts about 8 years before rotting when in contact with soil. I can’t imagine coating cedar which is a gorgeous high end wood with concrete. How would the concrete adhere to something that breathes? It would surely crack and fall off quickly.
good job it is nice
How about a stucco mixture to correct the imperfections? Very nice by the way.
Out comes the biggest concrete grinder disk you can find to smooth it out.
I wonder if it would work to skim it like a shower wall with furring strips?
Fire will remove the fibers. I look forward to "part 2"
Молодець. Приємно дивитися за вами
Sand it down, then primer and paint it.
I have a 16' long x 2' wide and 3 feet high cinderblock raised bed. Do I need drainage?
The project came out great! The finish imperfection is only a small fail. I'm sure the solution will be found somewhere in the comments. Not this one though! 😄
Very nice
I think you can just sand it and paint it, it will look nice
I think stucco would solve all the issues.
Stucco video coming soon.....
You're not building an antitank fortification! Just did a demo of my old bbq island. Previous owners built it using the same idea - full size cinder blocks, 1/2 inch rebar, concrete fill almost every hole and right next to the fence. Budget a few days and a chiropractic - or a few thousand for demo/hauling when you get tied of the beds. I hope you can still reach the fence for whatever maintenance
I give you a lot of credit for doing these major projects. Try sanding then concrete paint should cover evenly.
Concrete paint! It will even the color and stick down all the fibers
Not sure something as thin as paint will get the fibers to lay down but if I could get the fibers off maybe I could paint the concrete to get rid of the line where you can see the two different batches I used. Thanks for the input!
@@WelcometotheWoodsBlog the concrete paint I have used is very thick pair that with a large nap roller it should keep the fibers down
Just buy a bag of of stucco sand finish slap it on and then go back over it with a wet sponge
Definitely stucco the wall. It will look nice and hide the joints completely
Nice ❤❤❤❤
trop belle
Sand off the fibers, then paint?
I'd say use a tiger torch to burn off the fiberglass fibers, than either concrete paint. Or if you want more work, than stucco. But you may have to apply a mesh for the stucco, so try concrete paint first? That will even out the color for sure.
That looks like a parging product. Call someone who coats foundations, and they may know how to smooth the surface.
Stucco and paint maybe
This is a high value wife.
Minnesota
Is it going to crack over winter? Ground heave?
So that’s the point of the rebar and core filling, to stabilize and prevent cracking. I highly doubt it will crack until the wall is quite old
Wait…. There was a wall in this video?
Torch the fibers off.
stone veneer or stucco.
I would just let the garden hose flow over me it will perk you up
You look exactly like starlight from The Boys (before the plastic surgery). Uncanny.
7:23 what if you missed the rebar and crushed the block?
That happened once but since I’m not swinging it super hard it only crumbled a little bit of block and didn’t crack it or wreck it
I love the diy spirit. I tried redoing a garden bed with blocks and had a hard time getting level. I did alright with a bucket of fine sand. This is something id like to try.
I’d say sand it down. And worse come to worse apply one without fiber
Beautiful woman!!!
Im a plasterer. I carved many stucco projects at Disney. May i suggest that you contact John, your mason. He should know a plasterer and /or a local plasterer. It’s an easy fix for them in just a couple of hours. Or call the local union for a volunteer. The finish is your choice, hand texture, roll on texture, or spray texture knockdown. Or sand finish. It’s just two walls.
Keep up your good work, and especially intense mason work will keep you healthy in the long run. I know at 75 years here in Florida.
If you go to Orlando see some of my work at Animal Kingdoms ‘Tree of Life.’
👍👍👍👍👍
That's not really how to use a sledge hammer, you could have used a hammer and gotten the same force. Big Swings =)
I know I know! Use an electric razor that we use for the thick hair on our faces...and film it close up. That would be fun to watch. 😮 Bzzzzzzzzzzz
Parge it with rapid set cement all or mortar mix. You can sculpt it however you want it to look and even add pigments.