How To Rebuild a KTM/Husqvarna WP Linkage Style Rear Shock
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2019
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Whether your rear shock just needs a fluid change or a full breakdown and rebuild, having the right know-how and tools can turn a daunting task into something you knock out in an hour or two. In this video, Charles shows how to rebuild and install a Race Tech Bladder Cap Kit on KTM/Husqvarna WP linkage style rear shocks.
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Thanks again for this video, I watch it once each year when I do this job!
Thanks for sharing these videos, I learned how to do my Yamaha Honda and now the KTM
Dang, that's awesome! Glad to see that the videos helped out!
2:00 record previous settings
2:40 back off preload adjuster and remove bottom lock ring & spring
3:38 depressurize reservoir
4:40 remove bottom cap
5:14 depress sealhead and remove lock ring
6:00 pull out shock shaft, dump oil
6:50 remove reservoir with heat gun + strap wrench
7:40 remove nut and shock stack, clean and inspect
9:15 replace bumper, cap, topout spring, seal head, shim stack+piston
10:50 retaining nut w loctite, 29.5 ft lb
11:38 replace reservoir w red loctite using strap wrench
12:15 pre-fill part way w shock oil
12:44 replace bladder
13:36 install bladder retaining clip and pull bladder up to clip
14:08 pour oil into shock body, insert shock stack, pump out air bubbles
15:15 top off oil, press in seal head, install retainer ring
16:03 extend shock, tap in bottom cap
16:29 turn right-side up with bleed bolt at high point; open bleed bolt
18:12 install schrader valve in bladder, install valve cap, clean oil off shock
18:49 fill w nitrogen, test full self-extension without spring
19:20 replace washer on preload adjuster, spring, washer, spring retainer, retaining clip
20:00 restore preload, compression & rebound settings
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what PSI are you filling the bladder to ??
@@No83Racing I use 150 PSI. The consensus online seems to be it doesn't have to be exact. The bladder does lose some pressure over time, probably best to check it a few times per year.
What an awesome video! Thanks for sharing it!!
Is this the same bleed procedure for the 50sx shock?
Hi rocky mount atv I have a question. I have the stock suspension on my rm85 and I rebuilt it by filling the Reservoirs with oil then putting in the bladder is in the shock shaft. I did it and I either got air in it or not enough oil. When I took it for a ride the bladder when into the reservoir further then the c clip. Can I rebuild it the showa way? I feel like that would be easier. Thanks
best review
what pressure do you set the nitrogen fill for the bladder?
Could you please share a link for the shrader valve?
Is this the same for a '13 150xc ?
Hello, I have a question. What would happen if i put normal Air in the container. Air conists to 80% out of nitrogen so i'm asking myself if it would be possible.
mine is a little bit leaking, is there any way to stop the leaking without opening the whole thing or paying much? its on a 2016 te 250 with 50 hours. Is this normal for 50 hours or should i be worried?
Never mind you are installing new reservoir , I missed that part
Do i need to remove the gas when i want only to replace sealing ? My shock just has got spilled out, and i want to fix it.
Where did you get the tool to remove the bladder
Sto riportando alle tarature stock un monoammortizzatore di un ktm sx 2014, era stato modificato per uso freestyle, mi sapreste dare le misure delle lamelle? Di tutta la piramide, in compressione e ritorno
Grazie
Sx 250 2014 eu
Is the bleeding process the same with the standard reservoir?
I believe the standard reservoir is pretty hard to service at home. I was under the impression that the main reason that KTM uses the vacuum bleeder is because of the standard piston reservoir. Other brands don't recommend a fancy vacuum bleeder because they already use the bladder system. That's half the point to installing the bladder kit is so you can do it again at home as well as a slightly different feel to the rear end.
Does Rocky Mountain sell the service manuals for ktm/husky’s I’ve been trying to fine em?
Thanks!
We should have them available for your bike. What bike are you looking for a service manual for?
Rocky Mountain ATV MC I’m looking for the service manual for a 2019 TE300i
We carry the Husqvarna OEM Repair Manual DVD which is all the Husky offers other than their PDF's that you should be able to download from their site. Also, depending on what service you're looking to do, manualslib has some that you can view online also. Here's a link to the CD if you want to check that out:
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/husqvarna-oem-cd-rom-repair-manual-p
Hello! Thx for sharing these really good videos!
I have a question
Is it possible to use your Bleeding method without the bladder kit?
Does it works anyway bleeding all the air out?
budellari poliandro wow great answer he gave you I guess he don’t know either I’d like to know that also hey this guy Morgan great guy from highland cycles answers everyone who ask him questions and he can fix anything on two or four wheels check him out he’s on you tube highland cycles
If you happened to have air left in the shock how would you tell. Would you be able to tell when you compress the shaft after the nitrogen charge?
I would like to know this too
When he presses the shaft down into the body and watches it extend it's a test for that. If there is air still in oil the shock will skip and return erratically as the trapped air goes through the valve. Smooth compression and return is indicator you got air out.
How long would you think it would take if you have all the tools and replacement parts from disassembly to assembly with someone that knows what they’re doing compared to someone doing it for the first time?
Do it yourself
It’s easy. But use SKF seals. Anything else cheap quality will leak. SKF is made to last not break. Raced whole season on outdoors and big tracks and still last
Takes 45min rear shock. Realistically
Quick question, I'm planning on just changing the oil, so do I need to take the nitrogen filled peice all the way out? or can I just drain it from the high speed compression bolt by removing it, and fill it back up, pump it for air bubbles, etc? Thank you!
If you already have the bladder conversion kit on there, you should be able to change out the oil just like a KYB or Showa shock. So yes, you can do it through that compression bolt. If you don't have the bladder conversion kit, you'll have to make sure the floating piston is in the correct position and you'll wan't to refer to your service manual. The whole point of the bladder kit is to simplify servicing the shock. Does that make sense? -Charles
@@rmatvmc Yes, thank you i appreciate it
If i don't have the possibility for nitrogen i can put simply air like in the front suspension?
You can just put air in, the reason people use nitrogen is cause pure nitrogen 100% will not have water in it. Good ol air might have a small percentage of water in it. Downside to the water is is could cause corrosion/rust. Also nitrogen is slightly lighter than regular air so it might behave slightly differently when being compressed and rebounded.
Would a PDS shock be much different?
I bought the bladder from RMATV and followed these instructions on my 300XC (linkage),
so now thinking about doing my 500 EXC (pds).
with this process and a bladder kit it would be the same...however with vacuum pump PDS shocks are much more difficult to bleed, because the transition hole between main body and gas chamber (unlike linkage shocks) is not at the highest point. PDS has a hydrostop chamber which sits above the transition hole where air can be trapped.
@@michail1963 I did the bladder conversion on my 500 EXC pds shock today and sure enough it went just the same as the linkage shock in this video.
@@youtubeaccount9058 indeed. bladder allows this process...
@@michail1963 Do you know, after the bladder conversion is done, the next time you change the oil do you have to repeat the whole process, such as removing the reservoir? Or is there an easier way with a bladder system? I heard something about draining and refilling through - maybe the bleed hole, don't remember - so I'm looking for info on that.
@@youtubeaccount9058 if you dont have a special vacuum pump setup, then yes you have to do it and repeat the process in the video. if you have a www.shockbleeder.com or Andreani pump, then actually normal setup with piston is much easier to bleed...
What’s the point of removing the reservoir ? You are just replacing it with the race tech bladder?
Why use a bladder vs the OEM piston?
The stock piston design is known to be a bit harsher feeling compared to the bladder and it makes servicing easier since this Race Tech kit converts the nitrogen fill valve to a Schrader type valve.
Do you have to use nitrogen? Can you use a plain old air compressor?
Yes, you will want to use nitrogen. Nitrogen is way less affected by pressure, temperature, and does not support moisture. The action that your shock gets creates a lot of friction and heat and that's the main reason that nitrogen is a much better choice to charge your shock.
How much nitrogen di i need
Why wouldn't pressurize the bladder with a small amount of air during the bleeding process? That's how wp forks work.
I agree. More pressure will bleed it better. Just make sure you let the pressure back out before opening the bleed screw!
How much nitrogen did u put n it?
I pretty sure manual calls for 150psi.
How much nitrogen
10 bar usually
What tool are you using to remove the retaining clip @5:31? Do you have it for sale?
That is the Race Tech shock clip tool: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/race-tech-shock-clip-tool-p
WP shock rebuild and gold valve install cheat sheet
Disassembly
1. Record shock settings (turn clockwise)
a. Spring length: mm
b. Low speed compression: clicks
c. Rebound: clicks
d. High speed compression: turns
2. Back up all clickers and HS compression (turn counter clockwise)
3. Remove spring from shock (KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER!!)
a. Loosen Allen bolt securing the preload adjuster ring
b. Turn preload adjuster all the way out, loosening up the spring
c. Move spring stopper up
d. Remove lock ring (clip)
e. Take off spring stopper, washers, spring, top washer
4. Slowly remove reservoir spring
a. Release nitrogen from reservoir little by little
b. Remove bolt and O-ring
5. Clean shock
6. Remove shock cap
a. hammer down against holes using a punch
b. secure cap against shock shaft with zip-tie
7. Clean up all sand and dirt
8. Press seal head down into the shock
9. Locate retaining clip for shock seal
10. Remove clip
11. Clean again
12. Remove shock shaft
a. Place oil drain pan under vise and shock
b. Slowly work the shaft up and out of the body
c. Shock oil might spill
d. Continue to work it out slowly
e. Place shock shaft aside
13. Drain shock body off oil
14. Clean oil residue from shock body and especially the reservoir
15. Remove stickers from reservoir
16. Use heat gun to heat up threads of the reservoir
a. Loosen up Loctite on threads
17. Use strap wrench to loosen up reservoir
a. Apply more heat if it won’t come off
b. Don’t melt it!
18. Place shock body aside
19. Put shock shaft back into vise
a. Remove nut (19mm socket)
b. Remove shim stack and piston
i. KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER!!!
ii. Use screw driver (or any stick like object) to keep everything in order
c. Remove oil seal and small spring
d. Remove zip tie
e. Remove shock shaft cap
f. Remove rubber bumper
g. Clean and inspect shock shaft
i. Spray out holes
h. Clean other parts for reuse
i. Replace worn out parts
Assembly
1. Put shock shaft into vise
a. Threads facing up
2. Install rubber bumper
3. Install cap
a. Notice correct orientation
4. Remove top out spring from old oil seal
a. Clean spring
5. Grease new seal head inside and outside
6. Install top out spring into new seal head
7. Slide seal bullet onto shock shaft
8. Coat seal bullet and shock shaft with shock oil
9. Install new seal head and spring
a. Slowly work it down
b. Spring facing up
10. Reinstall shim stack and piston
a. Make sure all the little shims are seated correctly
11. Apply Loctite to top nut
12. Slightly tighten nut
13. Remove excess Loctite, if any
14. Torque nut to 29.5 foot pounds
15. Place shock shaft aside
16. Put shock body into vise
17. Thoroughly clean reservoir threads of any oil and dirt
18. Apply grease to bottom O-ring
19. Apply Loctite to reservoir threads
20. Install reservoir
a. Tighten with strap wrench
b. Remove excess Loctite, if any
21. Fill some shock oil into main body
a. See the oil fill the reservoir
b. Tap on top of shock body with flat hand to push air out of holes
22. Fill reservoir half way with shock oil
23. Remove cap and Schrader valve from bladder
24. Grease bladder O-ring
25. Apply shock oil to bladder body
26. Install bladder into reservoir
a. Oil MUST overflow from reservoir
b. Seal might be hard to push down into reservoir
c. Push it down far enough to reveal retaining clip groove
27. Install retaining clip
a. Make sure it is completely seated
28. Pull bladder cap up to seat against the retaining clip
a. Use suspension pump or special tool
29. Fill shock body with shock oil
a. Half ways, or a little more
30. Put shock shaft into shock body
a. Oil MUST overflow
b. Slowly work it down into the shock body
c. Pump shock shaft up and down
i. Until no more air bubble are coming up
ii. Make sure piston and shim stack is always submerged in oil
iii. Refill oil as needed
iv. Quickly press the shaft into the body to release more air
d. Top off shock body with shock oil
e. Push shock shaft down into shock body to install oil seal head
i. Push down far enough to reveal stopper ring groove
f. Install stopper ring
i. Make sure it sits right
g. Pull up shaft to extend it all the way
h. Clean oil from shaft and body
i. Install cap using a rubber mallet
31. Realign shock in vise so that bleeder screw on reservoir is the highest point
a. Make sure shaft is extended all the way
b. Make sure Schrader valve is out of the bladder
32. Loosen up and remove bleeder bolt
a. Excess oil and air bubbles will come out
33. Reinstall bleeder bolt
a. Make sure O-ring stays in place
34. Reinstall Schrader valve and cap
35. Clean shock from oil
36. Fill with nitrogen
a. Test that the shaft extends all the way on its own
b. Test valving works correctly
c. If any issues, air might still be in the system
i. Disassemble shock
ii. Repeat steps from step 21 on
37. Put shock upside down into vise
38. Install top washer
39. Reinstall spring
40. Install bottom washer
41. Install spring retainer
42. Install retaining clip
43. Adjust spring pre-load to recorded level
a. Measure spring length
44. Tighten adjuster lock ring
45. Set rebound and compression settings to recorded positions
a. Turn all the way clockwise
b. Then count the clicks turning counter clockwise
Sorry, does NOT include the gold valves
265 mm? why?
waste too much of oil ,just just for the bleeding process
Cheaper than having a dealer do it. 13 dollars for a liter of oil isn't bad
man he made a huge mess lol