How do you rebuild a KTM shock?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Rebuilding a KTM shock isn't that hard and you only need a few special tools.
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Hey Morgan, I’m putting SDI bladder kit and changing the oil while I’m there. The SDI video shows needing the spring on. I’ll have it apart to change the adjustment collar. Do I need to put the spring on to install the bladder or just do it like you did here? Tia
No, you can install without spring
Can i bleed my ktm 125 sx 2021 rear xact shock the same way as u do in this video?
It might be a silly question but how do you set the 10mm piston in the reservoir?
That is a great question and I forgot to film it. I use a really skinny screw driver and I put an oring on it. I push the piston up from the bottom until it is all the way up and slide the oring up to the body of the reservoir. Then I pull it out and slide the oring 10mm down. Then I push the piston down from the top more than 10mm. I bleed the shock and then push the piston up from the bottom using the screw driver and the oring as the set height.
@@highlandcycles Many thanks!!! 👍🏽
You skipped over reinstalling the compression adjuster, how do you install it without getting air into the system?
Love the vids Morgan, I look forward to watching them every night!
justplanecrazy awesome. Thanks
🛑 Use a zip tie to hold the cap out of the way boss 👍🏻
Hmm...at 11:30, before you flipped it over, I noticed the oil was topped off, but it didn't spill. What's the magic?
everything was sealed up. Just the final cap was off but the seal was in place
You really need some one to hold that cam to show better what your doing 😂
I know. Maybe once we get enough subs I can hire someone. That would be super cool.
😊Hi I want to replace only the bump stop,does it possible to change by dismantling rebound side pivot set without removing the damper seals, Kindly suggest me a best way. Thanks
No, just take it apart the right way
If you just pressurized the bladder with line pressure you can do all you bleeding from the seal head side. When your done you can remove the nitrogen and install the seal head. Let oil over flow. The seal head will displace the oil and push the piston where it needs to be. Then pressurize. Or you can get a shock vacuum pump/bleeder.
I’ve done it that way too. I like using the bleed cup because I usually get some tiny bubbles out from between the shims.
hey Morgan i'm in need of one of these, can u send me a link or part # that i can get one assap?
Cool video!
DRC Hardware sells a cool bleeder cup makes bleeding super EZ. Probably be worth it for someone like you who does this all the time!
I have those. Great product
Need help here, can we replace bump without messing the nitrogen. Or change oil without touching the nitrogen side. Appreciate it, excellent work man.
No, it all has to come apart to do it right
Were you finding the 18mm shock seal please give me the link..thanks
SDI
Love your videos, good work. Can you give part number for those rubber air valves? Would they work for most shocks?
SPNV 0512
Thanks so much for watching. The work on all the KTM shocks.
Thank you for your very helpful videos much appreciated. I want to lower my Ktm 1090r without effecting the shock stroke length by fitting a reduced length bottom rod end.Firstly can you please advise if such an item can be purchased and secondly can you please advise disassembly and reassembly procedure without damaging the bottom rebound adjuster mechanism. Thanking you in advance . Sam
I’m not sure if you can buy that shaft. We usually have them machined down. As far as the work, just like everything, you just have to be careful and not force anything
Man, you skipped the part I needed to see about the little aluminum cover at the bottom of the shock body with the holes in it. My buddy’s bike had that cover pop off and fluid’s dripping out. I can’t see a snap ring/circlip in there at all.
There should be a circlip. I have seen them come apart
Isn’t Brady an okie? Are you in Colorado amigo? Right on
He is and yes I’m in CO.
Hey on my 2001 KTM 300EXC my KTM dealer installed a 1 inch longer bump stop during rebuild telling me it has compression characteristics that equal the shorter OEM bump stop that is no longer available . I am thinking of trimming it to the stock bump stop length as hard to believe . Ever seen this ? Wondering if I should trim especially since about to ride some fast , deep sand whoops and dont want less rear wheel travel .
I’d trim it. I don’t think they are right about that
My rear shock (12187L6701) on the TM- the foam buffer has degraded due to high humidity where I cam located - is this easy to replace - shock appears to be operating fine and no visual problems other than the buffer
It’s pretty straightforward but you do have to disassemble the whole shock to do it.
@@highlandcycles the complete shock - or can I gain access via the bottom mount ?
@@itolond whole shock shaft out
Sweet vid.... My Ricor shock for my KLR died over winter & cant find any rebuild kits for it / dealer wants to sell me a factory shock.....
Ugh. That’s the problem sometimes. I’m not sure what deal you need but a good shop should be able to take it apart and figure that out.
Ma man!!!🤘🤘 Totally doing that this week.... Need to do a AER fork vid to!!!👊👊👊
L Beck you mean like this? th-cam.com/video/n_biyi34Oto/w-d-xo.html
@@highlandcycles ma man's ALWAYS on point!!!🤘🤘🤘👊
I feel like I spy the fancy tool for that behind you while your saying that! 😄
Actually no. These take a different one
Great video, do you know for this shock if the compression clickers are backed out all the way “soft” and the rebound being turned in all the way “hard” would the shaft not rebound out after being compressed? Or should the shaft still rebound out even though the rebound clickers are turned in all the way?
Thank you
It should still rebound but just really slowly
Where do you get that bolt you used to fill the nitrogen ?
Race tech makes them
At 13:17 you said you set the piston height to 10mm. That was cut out of the video though. How did you do that? I can’t find any other videos that have a factory shock. They all seem to have a bladder kit in them.
I will find the one where I show it. I do have a vid on that.
@@highlandcycles I went looking, too. I didn't find it, but I found your video comparison of bladder vs piston. It made sense. So I went ahead and ordered a bladder kit. I'll give it a go!
@@watts300 you’ll be happy
Hello, I have a question. What would happen if i put normal Air in the Shock "container". Air conists to 80% out of nitrogen so i'm asking myself if it would be possible? Would it cause problems?
You are right about air and nitrogen. It won’t cause a big problem at all. The pure nitrogen just heats up less.
@@highlandcycles Oh, that’s nice to hear. I think i will give it a try then🤷🏻♂️
What oil do you put in the shock? Is it 2.5w or 5w?
3wt
Morgan, I am going to add the SDI bladder when I service my shock. At what point of the service would you replace the canister/bladder? Mainly I am curious for bleeding purposes.
You only need to replace the bladder when it wears out. Depends on lots of things but I’ve seen them go 200 hrs +
@@highlandcycles sorry, I worded that funny. I am changing the bladder kit to get rid of the OEM setup. It eliminates the piston in the OEM bladder and has a Schrader valve for nitrogen. I was just curious when disassembling the shock when is the right time to remove the OEM can and replace with my new SDI can, but I found my answer on RM atv video. Thanks for the response 👍
@@mountainmonkey172 gotcha. Right on.
Do you know any method of purging the shock absorber without having to use a vacuum device, it would be of great help, I await your clarification, greetings.
The DRC bleed cups
@@highlandcycles Without the DRC tool, as you would advise me to do, you have another video, changing the oil of another shock absorber just like this one, wp, which you do by removing the adjusting nut, but as it is done in question, please detail the process to me.
Piston height is 10mm down from the bleed hole? And do you set it with the shock shaft extended all the way or pushed in?
Thanks Morgan
Yes 10mm from all the way up and shock shaft fully extended
@@highlandcycles hello dude. If I put a drive screw from the hole of gas what's the mesure of piston height ?
Are you using Maxima 3w oil in this shocks? Thanks.
Yes. It’s the Maxima 3wt shock specific stuff.
Is there anything different with this shock vs the Super Duke R? Looks similar to my friend’s that has lost all damping controls.
I am pretty sure that the only difference is in the spring and calving which would mean that servicing it would be the same
highlandcycles thank you!
How many Ml of 3w maxima you put ?
All told about 600ish
Will the Nitrogen Needle type work on a 2011 XC-W?
Yes
@@highlandcycles Thanks, Just did a dump and flush on the forks and the Shock is next.
Could you make a video on setting the piston height
Yes. I will the next time we do one.
@@highlandcycles Did this video ever happen?
@@meanmachine6717 yeah. Not sure where it is but it’s in there
Why did you suggest adding a bladder? Curious about the SDI kit for my TE300i
The bladder gives you more consistent shock action than the piston. The piston tends to heat up and not move well whereas the bladder acts the same all of the time.
highlandcycles - dig that! Appreciate the vids and replies, sensei DIRT BIKE!
@@justinawingo When going fast in the desert through whoops and such where the shock is working hard, the reservoir on my 300 was hotter than my engine with the stock piston setup. It runs much cooler with the bladder. Plus it has a simple Schrader valve on it now, no need for the needle to fill it.
Y not use the bolt on the back to bleed ?? Am about to do mine and am wondering whats the best way
That bolt works great if you have DRC bleed cups
@@highlandcycles thanks I'll get one
Thanks Morgan!
You bet
How different is the process for a 200 EXC 2000?
Not very different
@@highlandcycles Great thank you. I live in a country where there are no suspension shops so i'm thinking of repairing my shock myself. When I sit on the bike I hear air escaping and then being sucked back in when i sit up. I'm going to buy a bearing rebuild kit. Is there anything else I should I get?
The advised bleeding process is just awfull...use a shock bleeder
It works if you know what you’re doing. I watched one of the best in the biz do it like this at a national hare and hound on the bike that won the race over all the next morning.
At the end you refill it with nitrogen? Where can i get that or let it refill?😅 Thanks✌🏼
Most shops should be able to do that for you
@@highlandcycles Thanks, and do i need then the new bolt for a needle or not?😅
@@dasatom3060 it helps. Otherwise you need a special tool
@@highlandcycles yeah, but for when i take it to the shop to let it fill up.
It’s a local KTM dealer. Do they normally have this tool or should i just to be safe buy the bolt.
Looking forward to watch more learning videos Morgan. Where did you buy the bladder bolt with rubber gasket?
Race Tech makes them. Thanks for watching
@@highlandcycles thank you. I used to buy valving from them to revalve my forks.
how did you set the piston height at 10mm
I use a thin screw driver with an oring on it to push the piston all the way up then I pull it out, move the oring 10mm. Then I take a blunt Allen key and force the piston down from the top through the bleed hole. Then I take the screw driver with the oring and push it back up til the oring is flush.
@@highlandcycles Did it that way and came out mint. thank you sir
name or code of the bolt with nitrogen refill hole?
amzn.to/3chxwMe
highlandcycles 💪🏻🥂
Great video as always. What kinda of container and fluid are you using to clean parts?
I forget who makes the sprayer but you can get them on Amazon. It’s pressurized air that runs it. I use Nutech Brake clean in it. Thanks
@@highlandcycles Thanks
I have one problem need your advice. Before that, I own Duke 390 2017 (new model).
My problem regarding fork, one side fork had leaking and I do servicing and change new seal both sides. New fork oil used Fuchs Silkolene RSF5, and filled 450ml.
The problem is, after finish install all and test ride and do hard front breaking.. the fork go down as normal but didn't rebound as normal before. Only rebound around 10 to 20 mm. Only can rebound more when I open throttle / accelerate more.
After I ride more than 4500km, that fork still same. At entering corering I fill hard that fork, some time have small jerk at fornt. After that I change new oil but after that still same.
Method
1st replace, that fork was dismantle all part inside (rebuild), cleaning and install back together with new seal. The oil filling from the top capping.
2nd just pour out the old oil from top capping and filling back from top capping. Also 450ml with same brand and spec.
So I don't know what the real problem. Wrong method during filling the oil or what. Really need your help to advice me.
Thank you
I don’t know for sure but it could have something to do with how you installed the front wheel. If you didn’t get the forks lined up they could be binding. I have a video on that th-cam.com/video/NB0nhXaYeiQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Bro..
hey Morgan i'm in need of one of these, can u send me a link or part # that i can get one assap?
What part?
the part you screwed into the shock
so u can fill it, have a 2022 husky 150i that i installed a lowering kit on , so basically need that part so i can full it with nitrogen
@@supacat7059 oh the little bolt so you can use a needle? That is a racetech part
yes yes yes thats what i need
How do you get the bushing out and the new one installed that you're talking about at 4:55??
Nevermind i got it. The smaller washer was still in there, which made it look like you couldnt push it out.
Hey Morgan. How are you removing the bushing inside the seal head?
With a little blind bearing puller
Thank you.