I don't mix my oil gas at 16-1. I have found it leaves to much oil residue. I also use add a little marvel mystery oil in my mix. I am closer to 24-1. They still smoke and so far I've seen no ill effects. I read on a blog of a guru of these old motors that the modern oil is much better and it is possible to do that with no ill effects. But I say do whatever makes you comfortable. Great video.
Everyone is doing this and I can’t figure out why? The pressure tanks are reliable overhaul parts are readily available as is the line itself. The fuel does actually stay fresher when it’s closed. There are no fumes to worry about beneath the motor well. No crappy leaky hard primer balls to deal with solid connectors that can be easily overhauled if need be plus no damn fuel pump to fail. I love these videos as most are very good but personally I’ll keep my dual lines for all my pre 60🤔, 60? Ya pre 60 fleet. Great video and nice motor!
I just tried this on a 1958 rude 10 hp, I used method #2 vacuum plug. the engine runs ok but when I rev it there is a bit of gas that discharges out the side of the fuel pump (briggs type) the little gold filter looking thing on the side of the pump,,What did I do wrong? should I use a minkoni or OMC type pump because its a 10 hp? thanks
what should compression on this engine be? I have the same one and its only 75 psi, each cylinder, it has good spark, I can put mix in the cylinders and it will only putt a bit but won't start. I was thinking compression is to low?
A friend of mine is a professional ouboard mechanic and he does this conversion all the time by a far simpler method: he retrofits the intake port covers off later OMC motors and installs the same OMC fuel pump used on early 1960's models. This change-over was an evolutionary change at the factories; they didn't redesign the whole motor and the later parts interchange pretty quickly. Easier and it looks and fits nicer, too.
intake port (bypass) cover method only works if another (newer) version of the powerhead used the same cover with the pump mount (ex 10hp, 15, 18hp.) The 7.5 doesn't have a suitable donor and the 5.5's don't even have the covers. So this method is an awesome method for them.
Found your video from a shared link in iboats forum, I have a 1956 Johnson 30 HP that I need to convert, leaning towards your 2nd method seems easier and less messy.
Great video. Thanks! I am seeing gas/oil mixture coming out the brass screen on my pump. Not very much, but it is there. Engine runs great. Is this unusual?
I would have liked to see how you had hooked up the new connection on the motor side and more explanation on what type of pump and how it was hooked up. Just saying it was held in place with cable ties did not really explain to me how it was really hooked up.
In the beginning of the cap Part you inserted them One way then halfway through you changed it in the video and inserted it the other way. My question is which way do they go? The bulb Side of the Should be facing the reeds or the other side?
A retired OMC mechanic I know told me that with the modern synthetic oils all the motors can run at 50 to one, the oil was the issue in the old days and the documentation on the motors all reflects the old school oils. Some jet tuning may be required but thats all you need to worry about the materials and clearances in the motors are all the same, with less oil you will have a richer fuel ratio as there is less oil per ounce of gas and more fuel. I have run my 1956 Johnson 30 hp for years at 50 -1 on OMC's best synthetic oil.
I've seen a lot of these smaller motors with poor compression from being run on 50:1. I personally ran all my pre 1960 motors with 24:1 to keep smoke down. Oil is cheaper than pistons and rings so I will continue to error on the side of caution.
bumping dead ass thread: the old school guys are totally wrong on this shit, 50:1 is a fantastic mixture for all these motors. They run better, start faster and run cleaner in every way.
I would love to see a video of your method. The two ways I showed were the most common I have heard of . If you make one please post it here as a video response.
will this work on a 1959 cd-12 Johnson Seahorse 5.5? I have an abundance of 1/4" fuel line would this work with the fitting? Trying to get this engine hooked up to a newer Attwood plastic fuel tank.
Hey how's it going I'm trying to do this conversion at the moment but having some trouble understanding what size fuel line to be using? and where to find the fuel connector part on the engine side can't seem to find the right part
The oiling instructions on the motor calls for 1/2 pint of 30 weight motor oil to 1 gallon of gas which is 16:1 . How ever some agree that 24:1 would be ok with modern 2 cycle oil. It is a subject of debate among collectors at AOMCI but the 5.5 and 7.5 hp motors have a tendancy to wear out the lower piston if ran with too little oil so it is best to error on the side of caution. However it is my understanding that the 25 hp and larger motors did use the 24:1 ratio so I understand your confusion
ok so I bought the rectangle Mukumi Single Carburetor Pump how do you know which lines go where, because there is only 1 port on the manifold, 1 port on the carb. so I just don't know where to hook up the 3 hoses
after modifying the intake manifold as in the video. you put one line from the manifold to the vacuum port of pump. then 2nd line from fuel quick connect that connects the modern fuel tank. to the "IN" port if pump. then the last line from the "out" side of pump to the carburetor.
We followed your directions exactly and we found starting point settings for the upper a lower fuel adjustments. It will only run for 1.5 minutes by itself and dies out. If we keep the pump bulb rock hard it will continue to run great. I don't think the briggs fuel pump is sucking enough fuel from the tank. Do you have any suggestions?
ONTHAT DOVE that's small enough that any pump should run it. The fact that pumping the ball will keep it running indicates a bad pump. Or at least a leak at the pulse [ air] line.
I bought another fuel pump last week along with a fuel filter and will send it with a friend to Haiti in a month. I believe that should fix it. I feel that the pump may have gotten some trash in it with their fuel quality and no inline filter.
Trying to convert my 1959 qd-20 to single line with a fuel pump. Need a bypass cover from a later model. Do you know where I can find one? Thanks. Kyle Conley
I have a 5.5 Evinrude 2 line system. I have never seen a good reason to change it. Why would I want to? Is there an advantage to converting to a one line system?
It allows you to sell a motor that you may not want but but can sell to average fisherman without getting rid of a pressure tank. Or it can also allow you to use the same tank as a bigger modern motor when you use these older motors as a trolling or kicker motor. The pressure tanks are getting harder to find but these old 50 OMC motors can run forever.
ooldschooll ok that makes sense. I just have an old 14 foot Jon boat so 5 gallons of gas lasts me a long time. I never thought about someone wanting to use one as a kicker.
@kodibass I try to keep the vent as close to the top as possible. Is yours toward the bottom? Other than that the only other thing I could think of is the pump may be bad.
i read this question earlier but didn't see the response, you position the the vacuum cap 2 different directions, which is proper? Question #2 If using the vacuum cap method, do you still fill the channel with scotch weld 847?
What is the purpose of removeing the check valve and plugging one side of it? Why couldnt you leave the check valve in and put the fuel pump on the same way you did?
The check valves are there to create constant air pressure to blow into the original pressure tanks and that pressure pushes the fuel to the motor. Newer motors draw fuel to the motor with suction from the fuel pump. The fuel pump needs a pulse to operate. By plugging one side and removing the check valve the one side will push air then pull air on each piston cycle there by creating that pulse for the pump.
Thanks for the help. I can not find scotch weld or 3m scotch grip anywhere. Is it o.k to use permatex products since they are both gasket making products?
Hi there. Can't thank you enough for this video. I'm currently rebuilding a 1959 Johnson 5.5 hp. I'm a little confused about the gas-line you used: It appears that the original gas-lines are barbed for 1/8" i.d. hose. How did you make everything compatible with the 1/4" barb on the new single-line connector and the 1/4" ports on the fuel pump?
I’m currently rebuilding a 1955 Johnson 10 hp and it’s my first time will this method work on it to and if so do you think it is ok on the engine and also does it matter if I use a 16-1 ratio with a full synthetic oil or does it have to be that tw3 or whatever you put in the video
Fuel mix ratios have been and will continue to be a point of disagreement. I found that 16:1 didn't burn well and ran closer to 20:1 but don't recommend it because if you hurt your motor you'd blame me. As a lot of people say oil is cheaper than parts. Bottom line is deviating from the manufactures recommendation risks damage to your motor. Purists are absolutely against single line conversions. The reason I converted was to sell the excess motors I had collected. The 50s motors were so cheap and plentiful that fixing and collecting got out of hand. Finding the old 2 line tanks and selling them to the average fisherman was a pain. I've grown out of collecting for the last several years and have sold most of my motors. if you have a nice two line tank or two. Keep it original and be very selective on the motors you buy because getting rid of motors requiring two line tanks is tough. Most collectors already have too many of those and someone wanting a fishing motors don't want the hassle of tanks that can't be bought at Walmart.
O.K Thanks, I am thinking about going with the first method you showed in this video. After sealing the chanel, do you put the check valves back in or do you leave them out? Thanks.
Great video. Thanks. I have a 1958 18 hp Johnson Seahorse. Can I use the same fuel pump for larger hp engine or should I consider something else? Thanks
I would use a larger pump. The bigger motors 7.5 hp and up have a plates on the left side of the motor. 1 on each cylinder. If you remove 1 of those plates and either use a 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate or drill out the original plate and tap pipe thread to use a brass nipple to get the pulse needed to run the pump. It's much easier than taking the intake off. here is a link to one I did Conversion from the old two line tank
You should be able to, I think it's all about the same till you get into the 30 hp range. I know the fuel pump on a Lightwin 4 is the same as a 15hp. Because I moved one to the other just the other day. That's the beauty of the old johnnyrudes lots of parts swap for lots of years!!
@jasper60103 Thats great. The topic comes up often on a club site I belong to and wanted to be able to post a link on how to instead of trying to type out the intructions.
Thanks for the great video. I guess it must be the type of oil they are using, my motor is not that small it’s a 30hp so that might be the difference, your working on the less than 10 hp motors. Bye for now.
Hey ooldschooll, Just got a old '56 johnson 5 1/2 and was watching your video here on converting tanks. Where did you get that scotch weld 847 and how much is it? After sealing this channel, you connect a regular male connector to the fuel line on the motor correct? Thanks
@kodibass It will run well with 75 any below 60 psi will run poorly. Have you checked the coils? Cracked coils will need replaced even if they have spark. new coils, plugs, impeller, gear oil and a carb and points clean will usually fix these old girls right up.
I just picked up a beautiful 1959 Evinrude and I'll be making this mod in a few weeks. Why do you use the disclaimer? Is this technique dangerous? Why do you not recommend it?
Converting the motor, done properly, isn't dangerous; it's done all the time. But, he had to put a disclaimer on there for reasons of legal liability. These days everybody sues everybody!
You wouldn't be in Texas, by chance, would you? I have an old Johnson 10hp that my brother tried this on many years ago, then he regretfully passed away. I'd really like to get that motor running.
No I'm in Ohio. They are easy to work on. I learned through you tube and some help from a web group called AOMCI. It's an antique outboard forum the have all the answers and info needed. It's a great hobby with many like minded folks eager to help new members.
The video wasn't made to talk you into converting it. Keeping a prize motor original is understandable and even desirable. But there are so many of these 5 and a half horsepower motors that are Beat to Death that can be given a new life to someone who don't have a dual line tank. Trying to dispose of these mediocre Quality Motors without getting rid of your good two line tank is the purpose of converting in my case
The existing barb on the motor WAS used to push a continuous flow of air into the old pressure tank. sealing 1 side stops it from being continuous and causes a pulse. That pulse is the power for the new fuel pump to work. A line goes from it to the pulse barb on the new pump. The tank line comes in the new motor connection then to the "in" side of the fuel pump. then from the "out" side of the fuel pump to the carb. Remember all this new fuel line makes is difficult to prime.
That's funny you say mix gas and oil 16/1 when my manual with my 1956 7.5 model 7520 says 3/4 cup oil to one gallon of gas or 15 cups of oil to 20 gallons of gas or just under 20 to 1 like 20.17 to 1
Nothing funny about it. I don't own stock in the oil companies. The correct fuel mix in 50s motors with bushings ,not needle bearings have been a subject of contention in outboard forums forever and there is still not a consensus . The argument that oil is cheaper than parts won the day at the making of this video. Run what ever you think adequately protects your motor.
Back in the 1950s, the oil that was available/recommended was just SAE 30 motor oil. That is why 16:1 mix ratio was recommended. With the modern Johnson/Evinrude oil, you can run them 40:1 per my local Evinrude dealer. I'd probably run 32:1 just to be on the safe side.
I cringed, just imagining the screwdriver impaling your hand Mate! I am going to keep a pressure tank arrangement (Tank From the States by Airmail.......amazing how it got Down under). CD-15 is nearly finished. Mind you, I would be doing the sealant of a channel if I wanted to change. Very informative by the way. B.
Thanks, I used your video and this guide (outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Johnson%205.5%20HP%20Seahorse%20Outboard%20Boat%20Motor/Pressureized%20Fuel%20Tanks.htm) to convert my 50's 5.5 evinrude fisherman and just got it fired up. I used the mikuni fuel pump described in the post. I think you had your vacuum plug backwards at first and turned it around in the video.
Scotch weld and scotch grip are the same product. The 847 is the determining factor. Never use silicone on an outboard. it will always fail. 847 is the product use by OMC mechanics as Directed by the factory. I put a link in the description below the vid for Grainger
in my opinion you make way to much work for yourself. I've done at least a hundred of these conversions. All you need to do is block of the vacuum with a capped piece of hose. I usually take a 2 inch piece of hose cap it with a screw or bolt zip tie it and stick it on in place of the vacuum hose. Drill a hole in the intake on the side of the motor where your pump is install a barbed fitting and use a Mercury fuel pump for a 60's or 70's 3.9.- 4.5 Mercury
I don't mix my oil gas at 16-1. I have found it leaves to much oil residue. I also use add a little marvel mystery oil in my mix. I am closer to 24-1. They still smoke and so far I've seen no ill effects. I read on a blog of a guru of these old motors that the modern oil is much better and it is possible to do that with no ill effects. But I say do whatever makes you comfortable. Great video.
54coupekid
I am new to this outboard motor stuff, but looking up the specs on my 1957 Johnson 10 HP the oil mix for it is actually 24-1
54coupekid
I am new to this outboard motor stuff, but looking up the specs on my 1957 Johnson 10 HP the oil mix for it is actually 24-1
Everyone is doing this and I can’t figure out why? The pressure tanks are reliable overhaul parts are readily available as is the line itself. The fuel does actually stay fresher when it’s closed. There are no fumes to worry about beneath the motor well. No crappy leaky hard primer balls to deal with solid connectors that can be easily overhauled if need be plus no damn fuel pump to fail. I love these videos as most are very good but personally I’ll keep my dual lines for all my pre 60🤔, 60? Ya pre 60 fleet.
Great video and nice motor!
I just tried this on a 1958 rude 10 hp, I used method #2 vacuum plug. the engine runs ok but when I rev it there is a bit of gas that discharges out the side of the fuel pump (briggs type) the little gold filter looking thing on the side of the pump,,What did I do wrong? should I use a minkoni or OMC type pump because its a 10 hp? thanks
Mine is doing same thing. Did you happen to find a fix?
This is a great video,thanks for taking the time to do it.I am going to bookmark it for future reference.
Steve
what should compression on this engine be? I have the same one and its only 75 psi, each cylinder, it has good spark, I can put mix in the cylinders and it will only putt a bit but won't start. I was thinking compression is to low?
A friend of mine is a professional ouboard mechanic and he does this conversion all the time by a far simpler method: he retrofits the intake port covers off later OMC motors and installs the same OMC fuel pump used on early 1960's models. This change-over was an evolutionary change at the factories; they didn't redesign the whole motor and the later parts interchange pretty quickly. Easier and it looks and fits nicer, too.
Russ G that's fine if you have a newer intake .
@Russ Gallagher lots of what?
intake port (bypass) cover method only works if another (newer) version of the powerhead used the same cover with the pump mount (ex 10hp, 15, 18hp.) The 7.5 doesn't have a suitable donor and the 5.5's don't even have the covers. So this method is an awesome method for them.
Very good instructional video. I never done a fuel tank conversion, but feel I could now. Thanks.
Found your video from a shared link in iboats forum, I have a 1956 Johnson 30 HP that I need to convert, leaning towards your 2nd method seems easier and less messy.
Great video. Thanks! I am seeing gas/oil mixture coming out the brass screen on my pump. Not very much, but it is there. Engine runs great. Is this unusual?
I would have liked to see how you had hooked up the new connection on the motor side and more explanation on what type of pump and how it was hooked up. Just saying it was held in place with cable ties did not really explain to me how it was really hooked up.
Exactly. He completely skipped the explanation of those connections. Ridiculous.
In the beginning of the cap Part you inserted them One way then halfway through you changed it in the video and inserted it the other way. My question is which way do they go? The bulb Side of the Should be facing the reeds or the other side?
A retired OMC mechanic I know told me that with the modern synthetic oils all the motors can run at 50 to one, the oil was the issue in the old days and the documentation on the motors all reflects the old school oils. Some jet tuning may be required but thats all you need to worry about the materials and clearances in the motors are all the same, with less oil you will have a richer fuel ratio as there is less oil per ounce of gas and more fuel. I have run my 1956 Johnson 30 hp for years at 50 -1 on OMC's best synthetic oil.
I've seen a lot of these smaller motors with poor compression from being run on 50:1. I personally ran all my pre 1960 motors with 24:1 to keep smoke down. Oil is cheaper than pistons and rings so I will continue to error on the side of caution.
bumping dead ass thread: the old school guys are totally wrong on this shit, 50:1 is a fantastic mixture for all these motors. They run better, start faster and run cleaner in every way.
I would love to see a video of your method. The two ways I showed were the most common I have heard of . If you make one please post it here as a video response.
will this work on a 1959 cd-12 Johnson Seahorse 5.5? I have an abundance of 1/4" fuel line would this work with the fitting? Trying to get this engine hooked up to a newer Attwood plastic fuel tank.
does anyone know if it matters what hole you plug on the motor thanks!
Great video got an old one I need to convert as the tank no longer holds pressure.
I don't know if I'd want to try this myself. Is this conversion something any outboard mechanic can do? I have a 1955 Johnson Seahorse 5hp
can you show me where the lines run to from the briggs and straton witch one gose where on the carb and fuule line fitting
***** me and my dad are stuck on this part help please
the larger motors did. I think 24 to 1 would be fine with modern 2 cycle oil even on these smaller ones
I have a 59 Johnson 18 seahorse do you have a fuel pumo or list of parts that would work for that engine
Hey how's it going I'm trying to do this conversion at the moment but having some trouble understanding what size fuel line to be using? and where to find the fuel connector part on the engine side can't seem to find the right part
The oiling instructions on the motor calls for 1/2 pint of 30 weight motor oil to 1 gallon of gas which is 16:1 . How ever some agree that 24:1 would be ok with modern 2 cycle oil. It is a subject of debate among collectors at AOMCI but the 5.5 and 7.5 hp motors have a tendancy to wear out the lower piston if ran with too little oil so it is best to error on the side of caution. However it is my understanding that the 25 hp and larger motors did use the 24:1 ratio so I understand your confusion
ok so I bought the rectangle Mukumi Single Carburetor Pump how do you know which lines go where, because there is only 1 port on the manifold, 1 port on the carb. so I just don't know where to hook up the 3 hoses
after modifying the intake manifold as in the video. you put one line from the manifold to the vacuum port of pump. then 2nd line from fuel quick connect that connects the modern fuel tank. to the "IN" port if pump. then the last line from the "out" side of pump to the carburetor.
I got a 1957 or 58 Johnson would the 2 method work
We followed your directions exactly and we found starting point settings for the upper a lower fuel adjustments. It will only run for 1.5 minutes by itself and dies out. If we keep the pump bulb rock hard it will continue to run great. I don't think the briggs fuel pump is sucking enough fuel from the tank. Do you have any suggestions?
ONTHAT DOVE What size motor?
7.5 Evinrude Fleetwin 1955 model
ONTHAT DOVE that's small enough that any pump should run it. The fact that pumping the ball will keep it running indicates a bad pump. Or at least a leak at the pulse [ air] line.
I bought another fuel pump last week along with a fuel filter and will send it with a friend to Haiti in a month. I believe that should fix it. I feel that the pump may have gotten some trash in it with their fuel quality and no inline filter.
Just wondering would the process be the same for a 1955 25hp
Trying to convert my 1959 qd-20 to single line with a fuel pump. Need a bypass cover from a later model. Do you know where I can find one?
Thanks.
Kyle Conley
AOMCI web site.
So correct me if im wrong but all I got to do is take check valves out, block one side, then install fuel pump?
yep.
Yep
what size is the fuel line and two line barb.. I have a 1956 Johnson 7 1/2 HP it has 1/8" id line on it
3/16 i believe. and grainger did have it.
I have a Johnson 2 line fuel tank,can you tell me what its worth?
how did you hook up the fuel pump? I'm trying to do this myself
I have a 5.5 Evinrude 2 line system. I have never seen a good reason to change it. Why would I want to? Is there an advantage to converting to a one line system?
It allows you to sell a motor that you may not want but but can sell to
average fisherman without getting rid of a pressure tank. Or it can also allow you to use the same tank as a bigger modern motor when you use these older motors as a trolling or kicker motor. The pressure tanks are getting harder to find but these old 50 OMC motors can run forever.
ooldschooll ok that makes sense. I just have an old 14 foot Jon boat so 5 gallons of gas lasts me a long time. I never thought about someone wanting to use one as a kicker.
@kodibass I try to keep the vent as close to the top as possible. Is yours toward the bottom? Other than that the only other thing I could think of is the pump may be bad.
i read this question earlier but didn't see the response, you position the the vacuum cap 2 different directions, which is proper?
Question #2 If using the vacuum cap method, do you still fill the channel with scotch weld 847?
I have a 59 1/2 and it doesn't have the two channels, one that you fill in, in order to get this to work. So should I follow approach 2?
Does it have a fuel pump already? 59 - 60 is when they went to modern style tanks.
***** No fuel pump. So approach 2 is the way to go?
Cliff Stetter Further investigation showed the two channels (5.5HP) but they were covered by the gasket.
My fuel pump is leaking fuel from the mesh part of the fuel pump... What did I do wrong??
is the mesh vent at the 12 oclock position?
Does any one what fuel pump I would need for a big twin..35 hp 1956
hey ***** are your black fuel hose 3/8 or 5/16 we need to know
I used 3/16 fuel line bought at Grainger
where did you purchase the fuel connector on the engine side?
What is the purpose of removeing the check valve and plugging one side of it? Why couldnt you leave the check valve in and put the fuel pump on the same way you did?
The check valves are there to create constant air pressure to blow into the original pressure tanks and that pressure pushes the fuel to the motor. Newer motors draw fuel to the motor with suction from the fuel pump. The fuel pump needs a pulse to operate. By plugging one side and removing the check valve the one side will push air then pull air on each piston cycle there by creating that pulse for the pump.
Well that makes sense. Thanks for the info. I have a 50s model Fisherman 5.5 i will be doing this to.
Thanks for the help. I can not find scotch weld or 3m scotch grip anywhere. Is it o.k to use permatex products since they are both gasket making products?
Hi there. Can't thank you enough for this video. I'm currently rebuilding a 1959 Johnson 5.5 hp. I'm a little confused about the gas-line you used: It appears that the original gas-lines are barbed for 1/8" i.d. hose. How did you make everything compatible with the 1/4" barb on the new single-line connector and the 1/4" ports on the fuel pump?
DaffyJeffy I went to Grainger and picked up 3/16 line. it worked well
Thank you!
I’m currently rebuilding a 1955 Johnson 10 hp and it’s my first time will this method work on it to and if so do you think it is ok on the engine and also does it matter if I use a 16-1 ratio with a full synthetic oil or does it have to be that tw3 or whatever you put in the video
Fuel mix ratios have been and will continue to be a point of disagreement. I found that 16:1 didn't burn well and ran closer to 20:1 but don't recommend it because if you hurt your motor you'd blame me. As a lot of people say oil is cheaper than parts. Bottom line is deviating from the manufactures recommendation risks damage to your motor. Purists are absolutely against single line conversions. The reason I converted was to sell the excess motors I had collected. The 50s motors were so cheap and plentiful that fixing and collecting got out of hand. Finding the old 2 line tanks and selling them to the average fisherman was a pain. I've grown out of collecting for the last several years and have sold most of my motors. if you have a nice two line tank or two. Keep it original and be very selective on the motors you buy because getting rid of motors requiring two line tanks is tough. Most collectors already have too many of those and someone wanting a fishing motors don't want the hassle of tanks that can't be bought at Walmart.
O.K Thanks, I am thinking about going with the first method you showed in this video. After sealing the chanel, do you put the check valves back in or do you leave them out? Thanks.
Where are you located?
Great video. Thanks. I have a 1958 18 hp Johnson Seahorse. Can I use the same fuel pump for larger hp engine or should I consider something else? Thanks
I would use a larger pump. The bigger motors 7.5 hp and up have a plates on the left side of the motor. 1 on each cylinder. If you remove 1 of those plates and either use a 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate or drill out the original plate and tap pipe thread to use a brass nipple to get the pulse needed to run the pump. It's much easier than taking the intake off. here is a link to one I did Conversion from the old two line tank
You should be able to, I think it's all about the same till you get into the 30 hp range. I know the fuel pump on a Lightwin 4 is the same as a 15hp. Because I moved one to the other just the other day. That's the beauty of the old johnnyrudes lots of parts swap for lots of years!!
@jasper60103 Thats great. The topic comes up often on a club site I belong to and wanted to be able to post a link on how to instead of trying to type out the intructions.
Thanks for the great video. I guess it must be the type of oil they are using, my motor is not that small it’s a 30hp so that might be the difference, your working on the less than 10 hp motors. Bye for now.
@alectraproject LOL. All is well but thanks for the concern.
I wish I had time to do that? I'm in peck season right now. If I think of it next time I do it I'll take some pictures for you.
Hey ooldschooll, Just got a old '56 johnson 5 1/2 and was watching your video here on converting tanks. Where did you get that scotch weld 847 and how much is it? After sealing this channel, you connect a regular male connector to the fuel line on the motor correct? Thanks
thjat seams to happen more with the briggs style pump. Try to position that screen as close to 12:00 as possible .
@kodibass It will run well with 75 any below 60 psi will run poorly. Have you checked the coils? Cracked coils will need replaced even if they have spark. new coils, plugs, impeller, gear oil and a carb and points clean will usually fix these old girls right up.
I just picked up a beautiful 1959 Evinrude and I'll be making this mod in a few weeks. Why do you use the disclaimer? Is this technique dangerous? Why do you not recommend it?
Converting the motor, done properly, isn't dangerous; it's done all the time. But, he had to put a disclaimer on there for reasons of legal liability. These days everybody sues everybody!
@cajuncookone You welcome Thanks for commenting
You wouldn't be in Texas, by chance, would you? I have an old Johnson 10hp that my brother tried this on many years ago, then he regretfully passed away. I'd really like to get that motor running.
No I'm in Ohio. They are easy to work on. I learned through you tube and some help from a web group called AOMCI. It's an antique outboard forum the have all the answers and info needed. It's a great hobby with many like minded folks eager to help new members.
Oldschool. I'm in Ohio too. Would you do a conversion for me of course I'll pay.
The video wasn't made to talk you into converting it. Keeping a prize motor original is understandable and even desirable. But there are so many of these 5 and a half horsepower motors that are Beat to Death that can be given a new life to someone who don't have a dual line tank. Trying to dispose of these mediocre Quality Motors without getting rid of your good two line tank is the purpose of converting in my case
Great vid, thanks !!
glad you liked it
The existing barb on the motor WAS used to push a continuous flow of air into the old pressure tank. sealing 1 side stops it from being continuous and causes a pulse. That pulse is the power for the new fuel pump to work. A line goes from it to the pulse barb on the new pump. The tank line comes in the new motor connection then to the "in" side of the fuel pump. then from the "out" side of the fuel pump to the carb. Remember all this new fuel line makes is difficult to prime.
great video thank you
That's funny you say mix gas and oil 16/1 when my manual with my 1956 7.5 model 7520 says 3/4 cup oil to one gallon of gas or 15 cups of oil to 20 gallons of gas or just under 20 to 1 like 20.17 to 1
Nothing funny about it. I don't own stock in the oil companies. The correct fuel mix in 50s motors with bushings ,not needle bearings have been a subject of contention in outboard forums forever and there is still not a consensus . The argument that oil is cheaper than parts won the day at the making of this video. Run what ever you think adequately protects your motor.
Back in the 1950s, the oil that was available/recommended was just SAE 30 motor oil. That is why 16:1 mix ratio was recommended. With the modern Johnson/Evinrude oil, you can run them 40:1 per my local Evinrude dealer. I'd probably run 32:1 just to be on the safe side.
I cringed, just imagining the screwdriver impaling your hand Mate! I am going to keep a pressure tank arrangement (Tank From the States by Airmail.......amazing how it got Down under). CD-15 is nearly finished. Mind you, I would be doing the sealant of a channel if I wanted to change. Very informative by the way. B.
Thanks, I used your video and this guide (outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Johnson%205.5%20HP%20Seahorse%20Outboard%20Boat%20Motor/Pressureized%20Fuel%20Tanks.htm) to convert my 50's 5.5 evinrude fisherman and just got it fired up. I used the mikuni fuel pump described in the post. I think you had your vacuum plug backwards at first and turned it around in the video.
Scotch weld and scotch grip are the same product. The 847 is the determining factor. Never use silicone on an outboard. it will always fail. 847 is the product use by OMC mechanics as Directed by the factory. I put a link in the description below the vid for Grainger
in my opinion you make way to much work for yourself. I've done at least a hundred of these conversions. All you need to do is block of the vacuum with a capped piece of hose. I usually take a 2 inch piece of hose cap it with a screw or bolt zip tie it and stick it on in place of the vacuum hose. Drill a hole in the intake on the side of the motor where your pump is install a barbed fitting and use a Mercury fuel pump for a 60's or 70's 3.9.- 4.5 Mercury
Man that was awesome thanks for taking the time. That was very well done!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Really nice!
Thanks,
David(cajuncook1)
leave them out.
Thanks but no thanks! I actually like using my vintage original tank and motor the way that were made to be.