Man to be completely honest this is amazing. You never really get to see step by step the ways these comp cars get built and the massive amount of time and technology that goes into every aspect of them. I love this type of content.
In Aerospace we put service loops about 6 inches from the connector, inside the loom. The service loops are usually a few inches so they lay flatter against the harness.
I'm an electrician, and I appreciate seeing a well thought out electrical system to support a proper car build. If you leave the Deutch connectors unpinned after doing the bulkhead, you can cut to fit after it's installed if you really want to avoid extra slack. But when it comes to wire, too long is a good problem to have. Better looking at it, than looking for it.
Maaaaan, in my 46 yrs of being a born car guy I've seen attention to detail in builds, I have been over meticulous but Taylor, you're killing it, every possible problem addressed, this is just inspiring and making a lot of us take a harder look at how we do it.
I’ve always appreciated your attention to detail. I’m getting ready to start a pretty wild project myself and seeing you take the time to do it right is motivating.
@@wraithmedaberry5795 You’re going to think I’m crazy, but I have a 2nd gen dodge Dakota that the 3.9L took a crap on me, so I’m going to K24 swap it. I’ve been gathering parts for the last two years and I’ve got enough to start.
@@acherontiaatropos1 sorry about that, it is the two door extended cab. So technically it does have five seats but I’m going to take the backseat out because we are eventually going to cage it. What I’m trying to decide on now is whether or not I want to make it a drift truck or just break hearts on the street.
I've been watching your channel for a month or so and I'm impressed at what you've been able to do in a 2 car garage. This is a professionally built racecar full stop!
Bulkhead connectors, dry breaks, I love how everything is easily accessible and planned out for ease of use. It's awesome seeing it all come together, it's going to be a monster!
This is some of my favorite content seeing all of the tedious wiring and everything. It puts into prospective what it take to make a project next level! Also being a GM guy I love seeing the Silverado And Vett! Keep up the good work!
2 tips for the heat shrink. 1. Use isopropyl alcohol, it will help lubricate everything to slide everything through. It dries without residue buildup. 2. When sizing your DR25 (or V25 or whatever you are using for the bulk of the harness) use the biggest heat shrink that will shrink to the diameter of your harness. For example: your harness branch is 9/16" thick, use 3/4" or 1" heatshrink. When it shrinks, it gets thicker, providing better abrasion resistance and stuff. When using SCL (the adhesive lined stuff) use the smallest that will fit over the branch.
I think the thing I like the most about this build is just the culmination of all the learning you've gained over the last 5-10 years. It's cool to see it get applied into your craziest build yet. Love it.
I like these full builds you do. I know nothing about building cars and all the components and your videos give a dive into it. I like this format of "what projects to complete today" than just a before and after install of videos.
I don't think I've seen this in-depth of a build series on TV or yourtube. So many things are "we went from the junk yard to the race track in 47 hours." Really glad you have put this much detail into this build Taylor. Keep it up man.
You need the heat shrink attachment for your heat gun. It's a flat curved piece that will shape the hot air around you wires, so you'll hit 3/4's of the line.
Love watching this build.... you make me want to get and start a project so bad.... it's been 10 years since I've built a race car..... but these vlogs really make me want to start again.... keep it up! Can't wait to see it shred the FF
If I understood correctly you have 2X 20 amp channels going to one 12 gauge wire for the fans? If you do upgrade fans and start pulling 30+ amps that 12 gauge wire will get *very* hot! If you have a spare wire in the harness I would double up the 12 gauge wire or use a relay to handle the big load so the ECU just turns the relay on and off. Relay modules are great for high amp draw applications and there are a lot of good quality solid state and waterproof relays available.
You don’t want the smallest size heat shrink possible. You want the largest size that will still recover to your wires relatively tightly. It will make your life easier next time.
This was very educational and satisfying, to see you do your own wiring, I feel like more builders should take that extra step to take time to focus on wire management, keeping it functional no matter the time it takes to do it right the first time
Been watching for a long time man it’s crazy to see how far your builds have come. This one in particular is impressive, truly. My next project I want to have this level of attention to detail in it. It’s so cool to see and something to be very proud of. Keep killin it
It's crazy to see how far you've come. I found your channel during the early episodes of the k swap cefiro and went back and watched most videos all the way back to the start of the LS Miata build. Your attention to showing the whole process is why your channel continuously has some of the best content on YT. Keep at it man, I can't wait to see this beast in action!
Man, I love how in depth you've gone describing your thought process on all of this wiring stuff. I've got an E30 that I need to wire in the near future and all of this has been seriously invaluable.
I like how you say, ok, the rear is done.... Except the other side, and proceed for the next 5 mins to explain what's NOT DONE in the rear, lol..... Love your videos man.... Cant wait to see you Drifting in it....
I love every video on this car. This build is next level precision. I really like that the fact that you're documenting every detail, ups and downs. You're a he'll of a fabricator man. I really like you're a one man army and don't have like 20 people on your payroll that build your shit for you. As always, keep up the great work bud! Love to see it!
You’re such a great designer and fabricator. It’s really something to make something out of your mind be perfect and modular for future stuff. I do the same thing with my industry.
Taylor; I am enjoying all your videos and the corvette is becoming unbelievable with auto technology. Keep up the good work and hope you do well in drifting circuit 2022.
Looking good and I can't wait to see you ripping it. I probably would have used one of the lowest amp outputs and ran it to a 50 amp solid state relay for the fans.
With that style of heat shrink, it's really best to use a blowtorch and just move quickly to avoid burning it. I've used similar before, and would always reach for the torch over the heat gun.
To pull wires thru shrink tube you can use a "fish" method and pull thru, teflon spray on the wires seems to help them slide thru nice if kinda a tight bundle.
I wanted to know more about LS engines when I started watching Taylor. I love his content and look forward to his next video. Your likes and shares and comments help but why don't we all join up on Patreon and inject some dollars to see what we can help him become? Lets help him catapult to even more awesome! Couple bucks a month, come on.
I love this build, I have watched every video thus far and it's so pleasurable to see all the detail put into it. Cant waite to see you rip this monster!!
You could make a little black plastic box to cover those two ecu connectors and have two holes in the bottom that the looms feed through. Will clean up the look
The heat shrinkable tube you’re calling “loom” comes in various shrink or recovery ratios. If you get a 3:1 or 4:1 you’ll have an easier time sliding it over your wire and it will still shrink snuggly to the bundle. 2:1 makes everything difficult.
Idea for the oil lines. A couple of quick release tie downs like the 3M Command Hooks brand. Strategic placement to hold the ends when attached or not.
Now this is electrical work. But at work when we are doing control wiring we have to us step up pins. So you can put a smaller wire in a bigger spot or split a big wire into 2 smaller spots. Splitting the bigger ones though you have to have a shrink wrap or raychem boot
Can't wait to see this thing rip this thing is gonna be crazy. Seeing you've already won klutch kickers with the miata I know this car will open up a whole realm of driving for you
Just a thought on the dry brakes for the car. Keep the lines shorter and cleaner and build a jumper hose with dry brake ends in the event you have to delete a component to run
You’ve got all the parts to make a remote oil warmer, 1 more pair of dry breaks and then some aluminum tube wound in a coil around a heater, put it on wheels and you’ve got a mobile oil warmer, the car could be at temp basically as soon as you start. Would be very helpful with engine life
I don’t want you to finish the Vette… 🤣 It has been by far the most interesting build you have done. You should be super proud of what you have created. 👍🏻
I used the raychem heat shrink at the main junctions on mine (used a different wirecare style loom for the long runs) and it was still tedious with a plug in heat gun. having to work carefully around each breakout point making sure every bit was shrunk. It's great seeing you put the thoughts and effort into the car - I know the pressure to get it done for a specific event. Just took my mustang to it's first event and only two small issues cropped up. rooting that you have the same experience.
I absolutely love watching you build this car It makes me want to go work on my car that I have incorrected for years But I would love to meet you in person and learn how to make the pie cuts for your Turbo That's something that I need to learn how to do.
This car deserves a custom livery with chrome and kick ass graphics. I hope you e been brainstorming ideas for it. If you do wrap it one color I won’t be mad but dude…
@Taylor Ray Why not buy one more dry break, run shorter hoses to the cooler and build an extension with the third break to reach in the event you need to bypass? Would clean up the long runs and leave less hose to possibly get damaged.
Don't bother with Mishimoto RICE fans, if you want good fans SPAL is the best choice. Nice job with the wiring. You still have the dry sump scavenge filters in the WRONG place.
I´ll highly suggest to make some type of cover for the ECU exposed wiring because I assume you are not running windows in the car an water might get in there if it rains and cause nightmares down the road.
Man to be completely honest this is amazing. You never really get to see step by step the ways these comp cars get built and the massive amount of time and technology that goes into every aspect of them. I love this type of content.
In Aerospace we put service loops about 6 inches from the connector, inside the loom. The service loops are usually a few inches so they lay flatter against the harness.
Make a second harness! There's going to be a track day where part of the harness gets fried somehow and the quick swap-ability will come in handy.
More like 3-4. Turbo LS's doesnt always make it and keeping loom nice and intact 😄
I'm an electrician, and I appreciate seeing a well thought out electrical system to support a proper car build. If you leave the Deutch connectors unpinned after doing the bulkhead, you can cut to fit after it's installed if you really want to avoid extra slack. But when it comes to wire, too long is a good problem to have. Better looking at it, than looking for it.
Maaaaan, in my 46 yrs of being a born car guy I've seen attention to detail in builds, I have been over meticulous but Taylor, you're killing it, every possible problem addressed, this is just inspiring and making a lot of us take a harder look at how we do it.
I’ve always appreciated your attention to detail. I’m getting ready to start a pretty wild project myself and seeing you take the time to do it right is motivating.
Hell yeah man, what are you working on?
@@wraithmedaberry5795 You’re going to think I’m crazy, but I have a 2nd gen dodge Dakota that the 3.9L took a crap on me, so I’m going to K24 swap it. I’ve been gathering parts for the last two years and I’ve got enough to start.
@@bsvJuice had to Google that cause im from the uk is it the 5 seater or 2? Mini truck style would be cool!!
@@acherontiaatropos1 sorry about that, it is the two door extended cab. So technically it does have five seats but I’m going to take the backseat out because we are eventually going to cage it. What I’m trying to decide on now is whether or not I want to make it a drift truck or just break hearts on the street.
I've been watching your channel for a month or so and I'm impressed at what you've been able to do in a 2 car garage. This is a professionally built racecar full stop!
I've been watching for over a year then you'll definitely be impressed with what he can do in a shop with lifts
Bulkhead connectors, dry breaks, I love how everything is easily accessible and planned out for ease of use. It's awesome seeing it all come together, it's going to be a monster!
There is a hook attachment to help the heat wrap around and makes heat shrink so so much quicker.
This is some of my favorite content seeing all of the tedious wiring and everything. It puts into prospective what it take to make a project next level! Also being a GM guy I love seeing the Silverado And Vett! Keep up the good work!
2 tips for the heat shrink. 1. Use isopropyl alcohol, it will help lubricate everything to slide everything through. It dries without residue buildup. 2. When sizing your DR25 (or V25 or whatever you are using for the bulk of the harness) use the biggest heat shrink that will shrink to the diameter of your harness. For example: your harness branch is 9/16" thick, use 3/4" or 1" heatshrink. When it shrinks, it gets thicker, providing better abrasion resistance and stuff. When using SCL (the adhesive lined stuff) use the smallest that will fit over the branch.
I am itching to see this thing in action. I haven't missed one single build video. I've been watching you since the beginning of your TH-cam career
I think the thing I like the most about this build is just the culmination of all the learning you've gained over the last 5-10 years. It's cool to see it get applied into your craziest build yet. Love it.
With small wire into larger milspec pins you can strip them long and fold back to get the bulk to crimp well. Makes it easier and a more sure crimp
I like these full builds you do. I know nothing about building cars and all the components and your videos give a dive into it. I like this format of "what projects to complete today" than just a before and after install of videos.
I don't think I've seen this in-depth of a build series on TV or yourtube. So many things are "we went from the junk yard to the race track in 47 hours." Really glad you have put this much detail into this build Taylor. Keep it up man.
I don’t know how you’re so patient not to hear that motor!? I stare at it every vid in anticipation!!! ✌🏻🤪🤘🏻
This is why I like my old carburetated cars. No tedious wiring.
100% sickest build of 2022 on TH-cam! 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
You need the heat shrink attachment for your heat gun. It's a flat curved piece that will shape the hot air around you wires, so you'll hit 3/4's of the line.
Taylor - for your heat gun, look into a HOOK NOZZLE. Game changer for heat shrink!
Those things are awesome, I didn't think that little bit of metal would do much but I was wrong
Love watching this build.... you make me want to get and start a project so bad.... it's been 10 years since I've built a race car..... but these vlogs really make me want to start again.... keep it up! Can't wait to see it shred the FF
If I understood correctly you have 2X 20 amp channels going to one 12 gauge wire for the fans? If you do upgrade fans and start pulling 30+ amps that 12 gauge wire will get *very* hot! If you have a spare wire in the harness I would double up the 12 gauge wire or use a relay to handle the big load so the ECU just turns the relay on and off. Relay modules are great for high amp draw applications and there are a lot of good quality solid state and waterproof relays available.
Keep up the good work Taylor! Enjoying your content since you started! Can’t wait to see the vette ABSOLUTELY RIP!!!!!!
Can’t wait to hear the first start up and to hear that custom exhaust that took so long to weld 👍🏼👍🏼
This car is going to unlock a new level of Taylor Ray.
For the bigger pins and smaller wire, strip twice as much insulation off the wire and fold it over itself
Mishimoto fans will never compare to those spal fans. Those are some of the best fans in the business.
Took me 2 days and 5 sessions to finish the last one, wiring is a pain in the ass. Gotta do it right though. Excited for the first start.
You don’t want the smallest size heat shrink possible. You want the largest size that will still recover to your wires relatively tightly. It will make your life easier next time.
Drift Car = Show Car 🤩. Loving the thoughts and reasoning about the components in this car.
This was very educational and satisfying, to see you do your own wiring, I feel like more builders should take that extra step to take time to focus on wire management, keeping it functional no matter the time it takes to do it right the first time
Been watching for a long time man it’s crazy to see how far your builds have come. This one in particular is impressive, truly. My next project I want to have this level of attention to detail in it. It’s so cool to see and something to be very proud of. Keep killin it
It's crazy to see how far you've come. I found your channel during the early episodes of the k swap cefiro and went back and watched most videos all the way back to the start of the LS Miata build. Your attention to showing the whole process is why your channel continuously has some of the best content on YT. Keep at it man, I can't wait to see this beast in action!
Thats clean! First Dahm's wiring episode then this one... really shows how much planning and organization will help immensely in the future.
Man, I love how in depth you've gone describing your thought process on all of this wiring stuff. I've got an E30 that I need to wire in the near future and all of this has been seriously invaluable.
The attention to detail on this build is SO SATISFYING!
I like how you say, ok, the rear is done.... Except the other side, and proceed for the next 5 mins to explain what's NOT DONE in the rear, lol..... Love your videos man.... Cant wait to see you Drifting in it....
I love every video on this car. This build is next level precision. I really like that the fact that you're documenting every detail, ups and downs. You're a he'll of a fabricator man. I really like you're a one man army and don't have like 20 people on your payroll that build your shit for you. As always, keep up the great work bud! Love to see it!
Gotta love that harbor freight heat gun👍🏻
You’re such a great designer and fabricator. It’s really something to make something out of your mind be perfect and modular for future stuff. I do the same thing with my industry.
We always blow low psi air into the wire loom it helps it slide on easier. Low psi though high psi will blow the loom out
Taylor; I am enjoying all your videos and the corvette is becoming unbelievable with auto technology. Keep up the good work and hope you do well in drifting circuit 2022.
The start up is getting so close!! Your attention to detail is very inspiring!
Looking good and I can't wait to see you ripping it. I probably would have used one of the lowest amp outputs and ran it to a 50 amp solid state relay for the fans.
You need to buy a heat gun reflector its made to put the heat shrink in center to shrink it down faster and easier
cant wait to see it running and driving man
Great dude. Doing this gives you the ability of better diagnose an electrical failure. Keep up with the good work.
With that style of heat shrink, it's really best to use a blowtorch and just move quickly to avoid burning it. I've used similar before, and would always reach for the torch over the heat gun.
To pull wires thru shrink tube you can use a "fish" method and pull thru, teflon spray on the wires seems to help them slide thru nice if kinda a tight bundle.
Wiring sleeving tip. Compressed air.
I think Supercharging the Miata as a backup would be a cool option , just to squeeze out another 100 hp or more
Dang that’s coming out nice! Good job Taylor, the work you’re putting into this car is really showing!
I wanted to know more about LS engines when I started watching Taylor. I love his content and look forward to his next video. Your likes and shares and comments help but why don't we all join up on Patreon and inject some dollars to see what we can help him become? Lets help him catapult to even more awesome! Couple bucks a month, come on.
wiring is my favorite part of any build especially done right
I love how josway is just always chilling in the background quietly.
Can't wait to see this car in action!! Looks good man!!
this project has been Looming in the background for a wile... Nice job on the dry break ingenuity!
The markers for the whiteboard are soposed to be standing up with the cap facing down to "refill" the tip. 🇸🇪😎🤘
I love this build, I have watched every video thus far and it's so pleasurable to see all the detail put into it. Cant waite to see you rip this monster!!
loved watching and listening to ya jibber jabber. can't wait to see you rip this around.
Use a metal coat hanger next time to run the wire works perfect gret build love the work one day maybe I will see this cat perform in person!!!
You could make a little black plastic box to cover those two ecu connectors and have two holes in the bottom that the looms feed through. Will clean up the look
The heat shrinkable tube you’re calling “loom” comes in various shrink or recovery ratios. If you get a 3:1 or 4:1 you’ll have an easier time sliding it over your wire and it will still shrink snuggly to the bundle. 2:1 makes everything difficult.
Can't wait to see this car ripping!!!
Idea for the oil lines. A couple of quick release tie downs like the 3M Command Hooks brand. Strategic placement to hold the ends when attached or not.
OR some weld on loops that you could attach to with reusable zip ties
Really heading towards that finishing line, great work Taylor. 👍🏽😎
I love the wiring videos. About to do a way more basic rewire on my drag car than you’re doing but it has given me lots of ideas.
Now this is electrical work. But at work when we are doing control wiring we have to us step up pins. So you can put a smaller wire in a bigger spot or split a big wire into 2 smaller spots. Splitting the bigger ones though you have to have a shrink wrap or raychem boot
Can't wait to see this thing rip this thing is gonna be crazy. Seeing you've already won klutch kickers with the miata I know this car will open up a whole realm of driving for you
Just a thought on the dry brakes for the car. Keep the lines shorter and cleaner and build a jumper hose with dry brake ends in the event you have to delete a component to run
That wire work looks insanely good
I strongly recommend you put some sort of cooling fan and ventilation on your power steering pump as they have a habit of catching fire on minis!
you and hosway sure are jack of all trades and marsters of none great wiring
Such a beautiful build bro. You have amazing attention to detail and patience
Anticipation of start up is much suspenseful 😵💫
Minus the lift the shop set up you have there seems cozy. But im sure you will enjoy the big shop 😁
I love when you drop vids man. Totally awesome relaxing and watching your stuff.
You can get open barrel deutsch pins. They are good to use for bigger wires that are hard to fit into a closed barrel pin
You’ve got all the parts to make a remote oil warmer, 1 more pair of dry breaks and then some aluminum tube wound in a coil around a heater, put it on wheels and you’ve got a mobile oil warmer, the car could be at temp basically as soon as you start. Would be very helpful with engine life
I don’t want you to finish the Vette… 🤣 It has been by far the most interesting build you have done. You should be super proud of what you have created. 👍🏻
I used the raychem heat shrink at the main junctions on mine (used a different wirecare style loom for the long runs) and it was still tedious with a plug in heat gun. having to work carefully around each breakout point making sure every bit was shrunk. It's great seeing you put the thoughts and effort into the car - I know the pressure to get it done for a specific event. Just took my mustang to it's first event and only two small issues cropped up. rooting that you have the same experience.
Your snap transition 26:05 synced up perfectly to a Nintendo switch ad that made the switch snapping noise lol
So excited to see this project done and ripping!!
Satisfying to watch. Motivates me to work on finishing my Z06..
I absolutely love watching you build this car It makes me want to go work on my car that I have incorrected for years But I would love to meet you in person and learn how to make the pie cuts for your Turbo That's something that I need to learn how to do.
I live in Florida too and not too far from where you are located.
I’m so freaking hyped to hear this thing run!
This car deserves a custom livery with chrome and kick ass graphics. I hope you e been brainstorming ideas for it. If you do wrap it one color I won’t be mad but dude…
@Taylor Ray Why not buy one more dry break, run shorter hoses to the cooler and build an extension with the third break to reach in the event you need to bypass? Would clean up the long runs and leave less hose to possibly get damaged.
Always inspires me to get wrenching on my drift car. Love the content man!!!!
Serious nice work there. Almost looks factory.
About ready to start this part of my 67 C10 it'll have stock wiring and won't be quiet this involved but the ideas still help.
Exciting!, Great attention to detail! Can’t wait for the first start! You go Bearded one!
Don't bother with Mishimoto RICE fans, if you want good fans SPAL is the best choice.
Nice job with the wiring.
You still have the dry sump scavenge filters in the WRONG place.
Don't forget the cool shirt wires and anything extra you might need
Dude so satisfying 👍you do a really good job explaining all this and filming all of it and making a good video out of it
14:48 ....... I never though you would talk to a friend like that Tylor
Thank you Taylor.
12:32 I agree 6 inches is a lot, 2, 3 inches is more than enough
Kill it at Riverside today brother 👊🏻🤘🏻
I´ll highly suggest to make some type of cover for the ECU exposed wiring because I assume you are not running windows in the car an water might get in there if it rains and cause nightmares down the road.