I rebuilt my transaxle and it's working great. I watched a couple of other videos (that were much shorter) before I started, but they left out steps and you included *EVERY* step and tips about how you have to do this before that and stuff. I don't know if I would have been able to complete mine without your video. Edit: When I was finished and was ready to top up the oil I didn't have anything that would work, so I went to the Dollar General and got a condiment squeeze bottle for a dollar that worked perfectly.
Glad to hear it went well. A condiment bottle? Well, hopefully it allowed you to....Ketchup on any lost time looking for a siphon pump and if I were you, I’d...relish in the creativity you used to make it work.
I just acquired a mower with a Hydro Transmission and regardless of the brand I knew your info would be helpful. You did a remarkable in depth Tutorial here and I'm forever grateful for your straight forward approach and thorough explanation. I'm lust a hack who fixes just about anything and rely solely upon tips and procedures from guys like you. It's 4 years since you originally posted but the info is timeless. Two thumbs up and Thank You!
Thanks for a comprehensive step by step video! It was extremely helpful when I tackled the left transaxle on my zero turn a few years ago and again when I recently did the right transaxle. There is one helpful hint that I gleaned from another guy's video regarding how to successfully and without any frustration replace the pump cylinder and its pistons back into the unit: place the pistons back into the cylinder and then wrap a stout rubber band around the pistons up close to where they go into the cylinder. The pressure of the rubber band is enough to keep the pistons from falling out. Put the assembly back into the unit and then use a mechanic's tweezers to grab the rubber band while using a small yet sharp scissors to cut the rubber band, then pull the cut rubber band out from around the cylinder with the tweezers. This method works like a charm and eliminates the one major source of frustration in reassembling the transaxle. I'm posting this hint for the benefit of all who visit this site.
I sure would like to thank you for all the wisdom I learned from your TH-cam mechanical instruction and rebuilding. Thanks for all the info and the humor! I wish you were my neighbor.
Thanks. LOL, Neighbors? Certainly, As long as you don’t mind over the top Halloween and Christmas decorations like that of Clark W. Griswald from Christmas Vaction….along with the ensuing calamities such as stapling one’s clothes to the fascia of the house, getting locked in the attic, and setting a chair on fire and a cousin Eddie that helps take the burnt chair to the curb and then says, “That’s a high quality item, if you don’t mind me asking…how much it set ya back.”
G'day from Australia. I'm a mechanic and Cheers for the hard work to help all of us lost wankers in the Hydro transaxle World to be a little less lost and less wanky. Love the comedy too. 😂
In the process of rebuilding my transmission and your video has the best details I have found of any on TH-cam. Interestingly, I had no damage internally, so in retrospect, I think it may have been a little low on oil. It was jerking at low speed, grabbing until full pressed. The other side is also showing low. Probably didn't need to crack it but this is my first exposure to these drives. At any rate I think your video helped me get it back together right as I caught a couple of things I missed. (you hate it when there are parts left over). Great finale, BTW haha.
My Cub cadet is getting old and something seems to go wrong now every few months. I was having some lower speed bucking issues a couple years ago. Surprisingly, a fuel filter change fixed it, but of course I also did a spark plug change just in case, but it was the fuel filter ultimately. Then a couple months ago, it would just bog down and sputter and not run as fast as typical and struggled to cut just low grass. Changed plugs, air filter, fuel “pump” (more like a fuel diverter on my rig), cleaned and ultimately replaced the carb and fuel filter, but didn’t solve the problem. Deep sigh knowing I had to look into it further. Determined it was only running on one of two cylinders, then determined the issue was actually with the ignition coils. Replaced both (not difficult) and it’s running like a charm once again. Lol, just getting to an age (me) where any issue now requires a deep I-don’t-have-the-energy-nor-desire-to-fix-it sigh, but I keep plugging along cuz I like to diagnose and fix shit.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Ive got a Husqvarna that feels the same way...replacing a part every other cut it feels like. Im down to the drives and the motor, on wear parts. Nice video, glad to see youre still checking up on this video 4 years later. I appreciate the in depth footage, I have the confidence to dive into these.
Only thing I did different that worked well was setting up the transmission to take apart. Instead of the blocks of wood I let it rest in a cinder block. The shaft don't touch. Used a t-shirt to cover the block. Put axle shaft through arm holes. But definitely thanks to you for the step by step. Good thing I have been a professional Bacardi Gold drinker for a while.
Long video, lots of talking and exactly what is needed to rebuild this unit. Thank you Sir for taking the time to explain and show how to take it apart and reassemble. Thanks for telling us about the mistakes you made, letting us avoid them. Hope you get many more views and subscribers.
Well…have fun with that…it’s a process…can be fun if you like he feeling of frustration and solving problems. A couple important things to lower the chances of disappointment - imperative to keep any dirt, dust particles out of the unit as that’s what caused the failure of the trans in the first place. Some will likely fall in as you remove he old gasket rubber so use a vacuum to help keep particles out or whatever works for you. Also, make sure you use a generous amount of the liquid gasket when resealing. Mine sprung a leak a few months ago also I Potok the trans off again and put some liquid gasket on the outside seam. Not ideal but I had no interest in taking it apart again to redo the entire gasket.
I am in the process of rebuilding one now and have a few tips I'd like to contribute. 1) on the RIGHT side unit (no one ever videos this one) you cannot simply disconnect the parking brake linkage, you have to remove the entire assembly from the transmission in order to work the rod out of the hole in the frame. The linkage rod is right against the frame and will not let you move it sideways to disconnect it from the parking brake control. Left side is simple, pull the pin and slide the rod right out. 2) At least on MY unit, the TORX head screw on the forward/reverse control mechanism was installed with RED LOCKTIGHT, I had to take a torch to it to break it loose. 600 lb ft impact wouldn't budge it. If it doesn't come loose like in this video, put some heat to it. 3) REALLY IMPORTANT inside the little pistons on the motor and pump units are TINY thrust washers that are apparently VERY easy to lose, I lost two of them before I even knew they were there. Easy to lose, but I have no IDEA where to get replacements, I couldn't find any and a new motor or pump is $100.00. MAYBE if you called HYDRO-GEAR they might have them? I'm a machinist so I just made new ones. 4) Which SHOULD have been #1, before you tear the tranny down to replace the center section, try changing the oil FIRST. I discovered THAT tip after I opened mine up and saw the center section was still PERFECT, not a scratch on it, but it still lost all power when it gets hot. Apparently this issue can by caused by the oil breaking down and losing viscosity when it gets hot.
I stripped my torx screw trying to get it out (by hand). I had tried heat but maybe I didn’t do it long enough. Appreciate the info. I’ll try again with more heat
Great video that relieves my mind on if I can do this myself.. Being 75 yrs old now and not as sharp as I used to be concerned me, but the way you went thru this so well and informative gives me inspiration to take it on.. Thanks
LOL, Yah, and I’m no mechanic or engineer. It was the first time I did anything to a lawnmower other than replace a deck belt or spindle. I was quite apprehensive about it too, but as long as you pay attention to the details, keep the inside casing free of any particles, and follow the steps, it should work out for you.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Just when I get fired up to do this I find out that they longer Cub Cadet, neither does Parts Tree have parts for my mower since it was built in 2005.. Anyway I was just wondering if you did this in 2019 and you're still mowing with it. Is everything still working now and have you noticed if the other side is acting up.. Oh one thing I think I missed in your video was you having to add more oil after you got all the air out of it. Anyway Thanks to putting out this video.. If I do mine I will have to video it just so I can remember how I took it apart. :)
@@garyhardin3619 so I actually had to do this repair twice, but to the same side. First time I did it, it worked well for a few months, then started having same issue. I’m positive the issue was getting particles from the old gasket in the unit as well as not covering the open unit as it sat in the garage over night. Second time, which is the one I video-ed, I was much more careful and diligent keeping particles out and covered it with a shirt over night. Yes, did this repair in 2019 and it is still working well with no noticeable power loss. No, there are no issues with the other side.
I got a cub cadet z-force mower I need to figure out the problem with it it tries to take off on the left side then does"nt kick on in and go the same side you fixed it acts like it bypasses I am thinking and it dies when I engage the deck any input on whats my problems and can I still get parts. For a z-force commercial mower?
Very very well done you understood what to explain for those who wanted to take a challenge. Being a 11 year maintenance mechanic you got me to take the very next step of the challenge hip hip hooray you gave me the know how THANK YOU 😃🤗
I can't thank you enough for making this video. Even though my transaxle was not exactly like yours, it was close enough to be a great help. Your tips were just great. Thanks!
SilentKnight Saga, You rock brother. I completed the rebuild, using this video and the manual. Success. First cut was flawless. Thank you for your time, instruction, and shared mistakes. Also the commentary along the way, light humor, etc., was appreciated. Thanks again. (This transaxle was on my 2011 Bad Boy MZ)
Great, and hopefully you came out of it on the other end with a little more sanity than I. Mine is still going strong so, what, now 7 months later I guess. Hope yours does as well
Just rebuilt both of mine today. You're video was a huge help! Thank you so much for the time you took to make it. I'm waiting for the sealer to dry so I can fill em up and try them out.
Both? I bet that was all sorts of...fun. On my first rebuild, the seal leaked in one area and I apparently didn’t keep the inside of the casing clean enough because the center section got scratched again, so I had to redo. After being more careful with particle contamination and putting the sealant on a little thicker, it’s been going strong for over a year now.
you are great technician and will a great heart willing to share your skills; I have a same cub cadet and only trying to learn to remove transmission to change oil. Thanks for all your work. God Bless
WOW!! i sure wish i saw this video when i did my rebuild. I did mine all by myself. one pointer i can give you all. is use a pair of vicescrips on the real Axel. clamp it so it does not move up and down while you are working on the case. it will help that LARGE gear not to move. you can clam it near the case (on the axle, between the hub and case) you will see. you are realing just stopping the axle from moving up and down. Great video. I should have rec mine. thanks
Hello..... I watched your video and very informative. Great Job!!!!! I repaired my Cub Cadet RZT 50 with my own labor , thanks to your video. Thank You so much!!!!
Working on mine right now. One thing I truly appreciate is that you gave specific info about not removing the center section bolts before taking out the shaft. I will be putting the bolts back in to do this, cause that sucker is in tight and was wondering how to take it out without damaging something. I hope to update on this soon. Thanks so far for this video. Commentary is great.
Welcome. First time I tried the rebuild I left the bolts in and went down a bit of a frustrating road, ended up chipping the casing a bit around the rubber gasket and did some unnecessary things that cost quite a bit of time. Good luck with it. Sounds like you’re making a lot of progress. Most difficult thing after that is putting the pump with pistons back in with the center sections but if you do it as outlined in the video, it should go as smoothly as possible. Lining the hole of the pump up with the hole of the center section so the shaft fits back in can also be a bit tricky, but perseverance will win. Once it’s properly aligned, it will slide in without difficulty, no need to force it.
Thank for making this video..everyone had videos for husqvarna zero turns that have already failed or simply had a loose belt..nonetheless none of them mentioned that what if it works fine until 30 or 40min into the mow and then it starts slipping. 🤔 so instead of cutting the lawn in 3 segments I'm gonna try my luck with your tips and rebuild it...at first I was just gonna change the oil but I will probably just have the same issue. My yard has 55deg hills and it's almost 2acres so it did its job perfectly for the last 17yrs. With just a simple charging resister that went bad and a few batteries I believe I got my money out of it. Since I work doing custom machining hopefully I can repair it cheaper then buying a new 850 dollar one!
Any update Jason? I'm also a machinist and having exact symptoms. Wondering if it's thermal expansion of the cases that cause excessive bypass at half hour, or is the old oil thinning to much?
@lukemurphy9224 Well I tried changing the oil first. I used Valvoline 2050 VR 1. And wound up with the same problem. Not sure if it's because the oil is not for transaxles. I am gonna try amsoil transaxle oil before i rip it apart. I think the pump is just getting weak. The oil i originally changed out was shot shot. Almost water like. So im hoping that it is an oil issue. ...if not...well then i take a self taught class in rebuilding hydrostats....haha
@@jasonruch3529 Sorry, but I would be very surprised if you find any marked difference with specific hydrostatic fluids. My (and most Bobcat branded) skid steer loaders specify to use a multigrade 15W40 engine oil for the mixed use in hydraulic and hydrostatic drive systems. Looks like you may need to do the same as me and get internal :( I have 2 lots of transmissions to play with now as well, as I picked up a cheap 'spare unit' from parts mower and direct swapped only to find it seems to have the same issue. Both right hand sides. I was wondering if the angle of wrap of the belt being less on this side is a contributing factor or just the way people turn the machine with chute direction etc. I'm from down under.
Good luck. Just remember lots of patience and persistence. Walk away from time to time if you have to, do something that keeps you grounded, then back at it with a fresh approach.
Very helpful video! I bought a used 2006 Cub Cadet RZT 50 ~3 years ago for $900 and followed this video to rebuild the Transaxles. After 5 years the left unit is loosing power so I'm going through the process again, but had a difficult time finding this video. I found several others which were not nearly as useful!. This is the best I've found on You Tube. I've found I can re-surface the Center Section using a large Sharpening Stone and wrapping the wet/dry sand paper over it. I rebuilt the right transaxle without buying any parts and am doing the left again now without any parts. I have used a spare mower blade on wood blocks across the input shaft to pull the seal out with the shaft and bearing without damaging the seal. That's the only seal I damaged on my first rebuild. Just wanted to thank you for the tips you put into this video as I find it very helpful even doing this for the 3rd time now.
@Leo Thiel let us know how that works for you. I once tried it without new parts and smoothing the aluminum center section by hand. It lasted 2 weeks. If you can do it then fine. I have not been able to make that work. Also, it seems like 90% of the time when they get weak, it’s the left side. I wish I could understand why. Does everyone favor using that side more when they run the mower? Seems unlikely to me.
@failranch9542 I have two of these mowers, (Massey Furguson version) got one cheap with failing hydro, bought a third "parts mower" and swapped them in. Same outcome, two out of the two I have that are slipping are right sides, but I'm down under, so maybe it has to do with hemispheres?
Hey dude, thanks a lot! There was a lot of good information here, very detailed. One thing to add, I rebuilt both of my Trans and you had mentioned not bothering with the axle side. Well it wasn't cleaning well enough for my liking and one ring clip holds it in so I took it apart, there is a reservoir underneath the big gear for the top bearing to stay lubed with plenty of oil. I found some grit and other pollutants in this chamber, so I cleaned it out and resealed it and while I was at it I went ahead and changed out the bearings which were only like six bucks a pair or something. I figured I had this much time and ca$h in it might as well go for it. Oh, one other thing, the breather hose on both of mine were clogged, hard to get rid of air pressure if it can't breath. I normally don't write these, just want to say thanks and share what I ran into. Btw, I think my hair line is a little higher now.
Thank you, great video. Noticed your Kia Soul and Dodge truck in the background. Dodge guy myself and have three Kia Souls in the family. Lol Take care and thank you for sharing your wisdom and fun. :)
There's a brake spring tool that would make some of this job easier. It's a steel J on a T-handle. Harbor Freight sells a version for about 8 bucks. I've used it on furniture springs and trampoline springs in addition to automobile drum brake springs. Handy tool.
I'm rebuilding mine now thanks to your video. Btw use 14x1.5 oil drain plugs for the fill plugs vs the hex key bolt for easier removal and filling for future reference. I also watched the other guys video on how to prime the transaxle on the bench since this are very difficult to fill while installed. I also drilled out holes in the frame to access the plugs easier. I also plan on adding drain plugs to the casing. Putting together tomorrow. Thank you so much for this video.
Welcome, hope it all works out. We’re you able to order a center section and if so, from where? Another subscriber commented they were no longer available and I looked at several different parts sites and couldn’t find them.
Was wondering if you could share any details about the size and placement of the drain plugs you installed in the casing of the transaxle you mentioned rebuilding in your comment here. We have a older EZT-2200 and thinking of putting a plug. Thanks in advance for any comment!
The best hand cleaner I've ever used is Tub O Towels sold at Amazon and Home Depot. I use them to clean anything that is covered in grease. A bus tub makes everything neater and easier. I get them at my local restaurant supply store but amazon sells them for about $10. Place the transaxle in the tub, spray it down with degreaser, carburetor cleaner, paint thinner or whatever works for you. Then remove the oil drain plug and flip the unit upside down for draining. When you're done pour the contents into a lidded container for delivery to your local auto parts store or anyplace that changes oil for disposal. I place the used oil container in a lidded 5 gallon bucket with a stack of shop towels in the bottom and use that to transport it in my car. Grooves on the center section can be polished off with an oil coated piece of sandpaper. Place the sandpaper on a flat surface and slide the part over it using a circular pattern. Start with 400 grit then repeat with 800 than 1200 grit until you arrive at a smooth mirror like finish.
You don’t need to pump the fluid into the transmission units to refill. Doing one transmission at a time, remove fill plug near top of transmission, and fill expansion tank with fluid. Keep adding fluid until fluid weeps from open fill hole on transmission unit. Reinstall/tighten fill plug. Repeat with other side transmission. Bleed system normally, and adjust fluid level in expansion tank.
You do though because you need to purge the air from the transaxle in order to get the rest of the oil in. Unless you’re gonna remove it again after purging, fill it the rest of the way, and then reinstall it on the mower, you have to use a pump. It’s just a lot easier
I really appreciate your video. My rebuild went pretty well. I would not have attempted to rebuild this if it wasn't for your video! I found a way to "prime the pump" after the rebuild with it out of the machine using a drill to spin the drive, and I worked the bypass/operator with my hand until it primed up. The fill hole on my RZT22 is just about impossible to access after it is installed. I made a video and gave a shout out to you. I hope you don't mind.
@@mattc6044 Ah, I see your trans does look a little different. Was able to use a pneumatic wrench to take off my pulley. Love how people solve their own unique puzzles they come across during their rebuild. Don’t love how companies manufacture products that make it difficult to do common maintenance like refilling the trans oil. I’ve seen some videos where people actually drilled holes through their deck to access the fill hole.
You are a goofy individual....much like myself. I messed up as well, removing the center section bolts too early.....then I decided to go to youtube and found your video. I was able to use a slide hammer to tap the input shaft out fairly easily. A bronze wire brush works well on aluminum to remove the old silicon gasket. I use a steel wire brush on....steel. I enjoyed the video and hopefully I can repair my mower.
Lol, “goofy individual.” When I was a wee lad and was called goofy, I took it as an insult. Over the years, I learned to embrace it as a compliment, maybe much like yourself. Nowadays, I define it as quirky. Hope you were able to successfully fix your mower. If you haven’t worked on it yet, just make sure you prevent any of the gasket particles from getting inside.
@@silentknightsaga2415 yup, I fixed it. Kids say it has plenty of go and I don't hear the transmissions whine hardly at all. Thanks again for the great video.
I'd like to congratulate you on your organizational skills and oratory skills as well being from the motorcycle and diy A/C repair industry's I'd like to make some suggestions if I may, first of all when splitting cases we always used a heat gun to slightly expand the cases and to soften up the adhesives then a dead blow hammer to smack any shafts protruding from them to force them apart, have you ever thought of using nylog to seal them back, you can check out the product it's pretty impressive, also using assembly lube on any moving parts to avoid wear on power up, and preluding any seals before inserting anything in them to avoid damage? Well that's my two cents you did one hell of a job, thanks for your presentation it's one of the best I've seen on youtube. Rick
Thanks for the suggestions. I’m a bit of a novice on these things and wasn’t aware some of those products an techniques existed. I’m sure it will be helpful to others as well. Question for you since you mentioned things like adhesives. Do you know if there is a way and a product that you can use to seal a hole or defect in an adhesive gasket versus having to tear the whole thing apart, and remove and replace the old gasket?
Just a question about sanding out the scratches. Using the wet /dry sandpaper, wouldn't the sandpaper cut faster if you use water instead of oil? Maybe use oil on the last couple of finer sandpaper.
So your saying the oil breaks down because you can't change the oil. Pump scoring from degrading oil. That makes sense. Thanks for the information and video Man. Ps. After seeing what happened to the lift side I think I would change the oil in the right side.
Thank you for this video. I think it is the best I ve seen for this mower. I like your approach to this repair. After you got the 1.7 qts. of oil in the unit was the oil all the way to the top of the fill hole? Is it safe to add oil to the drain/refil opening. Would this be too much? Thanks again for this fantastic video.
It wasn’t all the way to the top of the fill hole. It was probably around 3/4 to 4/5ths full. I’d assume if you filled it all the way up it may eventually drain down to the level of the drain hole. That said, it might be possible to create too much pressure inside the unit if it’s overfilled with oil which may harm your seals, etc. Yes, you can add the oil into the fill hole. I used a small hand pump siphon. However, you have to be diligent in ensuring you clean any dirt from on and above the hole, any dirt you may knock loose when putting oil into the unit once it’s been remounted, otherwise, you’ll ruin all your hard work.
Thank you for the great detailed video. Good advice and tips in general as a bonus when approaching any project like this, cardboard, pics, tools, removing gasket sealer, etc. You could be a pro. Question, if you please. Did you consider drilling a drain hole, tapping it and placing a removal plugin the casing when you had it apart in order to change the oil periodically? Any reason why you might advise against doing it? Was there a filter inside the unit and, do you think it would be safe to drill the bottom of the case, in the middle of where the filter sits? Again many thanks
Didn’t consider drilling a drain hole. I’d think it would introduce additional potential for something to fail/go wrong. Had considered drilling a hole in the frame of mower just above the fill plug to make it easier to fill. You could probably use a siphon to remove the oil. I do recall there being a plastic filter with some mesh-like material. I believe it is mounted near the axel area but don’t recall exactly. I’d like to think the company that designed and manufactures these units didn’t put a drain plug at the bottom of the casing for a reason other than to just make draining the oil more difficult for the customer.
Well, I followed a link back to your GREAT Video of repairing your transaxles. I am having to replace the belt that runs the two units and I think you have the best view of doing just that. With my memory now at the age of 75 going it makes things even harder for me remembering how things go back together.. It appears taking off the rear wheels will give me better access to the belt. Any hints you have to give would be greatly appreciated.
Brilliant video, thank you. After years, it's still the best and im so glad i found it!! Rather quirky, i chuckled at the continual references to the "bearing thrust" and "gaskets" instead of "thrust bearing" and "seal" but whatever. Frankly im pretty disgusted at Hydro-gear, they've let down US engineering. WTF is the centre section made from aluminium? Such a really poor material choice for a high- pressure bearing surface. Why is it not made of cast iron or the same material as the pump and motor cylinder blocks that rub against it? It seems designed to fail...and its so expensive, for a bit of cast aluminium with some easy machining. Quite disgraceful and a pretty obvious cash gouge. I've had my rant😊 you can tell I've been servicing my EZT unit lol.
Not sure, seems like the right side would be more susceptible given most people cut the grass with the deck shoot facing outward which means the right side transax gets used more frequently than the left in terms of pushing forward. That said, maybe the type of use with the left side is the issue as that one gets pulled back more than pushed forward. Not sure. Just make sure you are diligent about keeping the case inside completely free of any particles as you’re working on it.
when putting the piston motor back, turn the case a little its side and put motor piston is at an angle this will keep them from falling out. should make it easier to reinstall.
I inherited a Craftsman Z6400 ZT lawnmower.And the left rear wheel is real oily looking like something has been leaking out plus the left side drive doesn't work as smooth or as fast as the right.What is that center nut on the axle for?Maybe somebody has loosened that and not got it back tight and it is leaking oil out of it,I just don't know and haven't used it yet other than just to see if it will mow.
It’s been awhile since I did the repair so I don’t recall how everything was connected. It MIGHT connect the wheel hub (that piece that with the 4? wheel mount screws) to the transaxle. I do recall coming across some info that there is a seal somewhere on that piece that sometimes needs replaced. The wheel hub removal wasn’t part of what I needed to do, so I’m not real familiar with it. Regarding the oily leak, that might be where it’s coming from. Is it oily on the inside of the tire closest to the mower frame, or the out side of the tire I.e. on the rim of the wheel? Either way, it sounds like your transaxle fluid is leaking and obviously it will likely get too low and cause eventual failure. Sounds like there is already some damage in the transaxle if you’re noticing that the left side isn’t as powerful. Could be due to that leak or could just be due to general wear and tear. My suggestion would be to enjoy all the... fun of researching that issue. There might be some pro mower repair vids that address it on TH-cam. Consider searcing for wheel hub leak, etc. You should be able to look up the parts on the Cub Cadet website.
Just finished the same job thanks to your video! Juat curious if you have had to complete the job again since the video or if the hudro-gear is still going as strong? Thanks again for the invaluable video!
The only issue I’ve had is that the liquid gasket that seals the two halves of the casing together sprung a leak after about three years. It seems to come and go. Obviously, this can cause another failure, but I’m not interested in taking it a part, removing the old seal and replacing so I just added some liquid gasket to the outside of the casing which I know isn’t the proper way nor a very effective fix, and I check the fluid level from time to time.
My fill hole has the plug with the hose on it. I have filled it and purged. But when it runs for awhile fluid just flows out the hose. A lot of it. Should that happen? Any ideas?
It’s possible you’re over filling and the fill hose may double as a purge/overflow hose. My purge hose isn’t part of the fill hole, it’s toward the bottom of one of the sides.
I look through your videos and couldn't find anything like the problem I am having. I have a Cub Cadet 46" RZT L with 190 hrs. The mower will start at times and works great. Other times it want start as if dead battery, battery is good btw, can't hear anything when trying to start the engine. Example: Cutting grass and stop the mower to take a break return starts right back up no problems. Then another time after stopping when I return no start. Go back in and after mower sets awhile or sometimes overnight it starts. I do my own maintenance being a retired Navy electrician / mechanic. Any suggestion. Tks
I’m no lawnmower expert by any means, I just did a bunch of research on the transax repair and did the video. That being said, from time to time, my mower has the same issue you describe. If it’s not making the cranking sound when you try to start, then it’s unlikely an issue with the choke. Sometimes choke will stay in the open position, but it does make the cranking sound, so I just manually close the choke lever on the engine and it starts. This sounds like possibly one of three issues, all of which I experience from time to time, though your mower may not have the same functions as mine. Assuming the battery is good, either positive or negative terminal wire to battery could be a little loose though this is probably the least likely cause given that it continues to run once you have it started. 2. The sensor on your seat could be glitchy. Maybe try shifting your weight around a bit etc. 3. An issue somewhere with the parking break to the engine. Try engaging and disengaging the parking break a few times. Other than those three options, not sure what else it could be.
From the Hydro gear website, did you purchase a rebuild kit and a center section? I’m pulling the exact parts number off of my Hydro today to ensure exact match.
Hmmm, if I recall, I actually ordered all the parts individually from various sites. Not sure I ordered anything at all from Hydrogear. I think the only thing I used from Hydrogear were some schematics of the transax which were downloadable from their website. Mostly ordered parts from Cub Cadet and PartsTree, maybe some from Amazon. That was like five years ago and some have commented since then that they can’t seem to find the center section available anymore. I think some of the parts came as a “kit” I.e. rubber gaskets, but most were ordered individually. I don’t recall there being an all inclusive kit that would have everything you need.
Well, I’m no professional lawnmower repair person, just a novice who repaired a transaxle successfully the second time I did it. That said, two suggestions for you. You’ll likely need a new half of the casing, or you might want to reach out to Hydrogear customer support to see what they recommend.
No, several months ago it sounded as if the pumps might not be sold anymore, however at that time I was still able to find them on partstree…though I haven’t looked for them recently so I’m not sure. Not sure if Hydrogear sells them, but here’s the number to call CUSTOMER SUPPORT 877.728.7410
I'm about to perform this rework on my RZT-50. If I have access to a mill, is there enough movement in the pistons to allow for refacing of the center section? I'm imagining I'd only be removing about .005" off those mating surfaces to clean up the grooves.....no?
So the pistons are spring loaded so to speak and while I can’t say 100% that resurfacing the center section would work, I can tell you that those pistons definitely lay very tight against the center section so one would think a .005 shave wouldn’t cause a problem. Just keep in mind, if it doesn’t work, you’ll have to do it all over again, so if you’re willing to risk that, then no big deal. Good luck with it. Remember to make sure the center section and motor/pump sections are completely free of any debris before reinstalling.
Hmmm, unsure. Maybe if you turn it at the wheel hub, but given the nature of the pumps and pressure around the shaft, I’d think it would be quite difficult to turn the shaft by hand.
Not sure if you’re talking about how long it took to do the repair or how long the repair lasted. The repair itself took about two days, in part because you have to let the liquid gasket dry for like 24+ hours before remounting the to the axle. With respect to how long the repair lasted, currently it has been over four years and still working. That said, two things to mention, 1) first time I did the repair, it lasted a couple months then failed because I apparently didn’t keep the inside of the unit completely particle-free/didn’t remove all particles before resealing. It’s critical to do so. When I opened it back up after it failed, there were scratches on the surface of the center section which is what causes it to fail in the first place and those scratches are caused by particles inside the unit. The liquid gasket also began to leak within those three months. Second thing, about three years after the second repair was successful, the liquid seal began to leak. The only way to truly fix that is to remove the unit, open it back up, remove the gasket, and reseal. I didn’t want to go through that, so I just put some more gasket liquid in he seam where it was leaking. Stopped the leak for a couple months, now it seems to leak a bit every now and then.
I would really like to know what courses those parts to go bad. And does that transmission have a drain plug. And how many hours did you have on your mower when that happened.
Ran it for about eight years at that point so it probably had about 500+ hours. I guess you could remove and replace the oil if you used a siphon, but no, there’s no drain plug. Consider that even with the oil in a contained unit, it’s still lots of metal parts moving at high speed and making contact and getting extremely hot so they tend to shed some metal particles over time. Also, the way this particular mower and probably many like it is designed, the fill cap is facing up toward the underside of the frame which gets very dirty. If you don’t make sure everything around and above the fill hole is perfectly particle free when you open the cap (and it’s a tight space between the cap and frame so your hand rubs on the dirty frame when loosening and removing the cap), you’ll get dirt in the transmission which then contaminates the oil.
@@silentknightsaga2415 ok I see what you mean. I just bought me a Hustler Fas trak 54 inch mower. I never owned a o turn before. Man what a difference in productivity. Thanks again for the information.
If you’re talking about the oil in the transaxle, sort of. Because it has to be emptied of the oil before working on it, it has to be filled with oil both before remounting it, as well as topped off after you purge the transaxle, all of which are included in the video.
Are you talking about the Center Section? Taking a look....so the number I’m giving you is for a cub cadet RZT 50. That said, the important info in all this is that the center section part number is for a HydroGear 2100/2200 transmission so you’ll need to confirm that’s the trans you have. It’s typically on a label somewhere on he trans housing. Here’s how to find he Part number on the Cub Cadet website - go to Service and Parts tab, click on Find a part, enter your mower model number (typically found underneath the seat), click on Diagrams tab, then select your model number from the list, then click on the Transmission diagram (there should be one for the Left side trans “LH” and one for the right side trans “RH”), then look for the part called “Kit Center Section”. For the left side, the part number is HG-71529. For the right side it’s HG-71530. Current price on CC Website is $147.28. You might be able to find it cheaper on I.e. Parts Tree.com or Amazon. Those transmission diagrams on the CC website are a great reference for all the parts and part numbers you may need. Just be sure you’re looking at the correct diagrams for your mower’s model number and whether it’s for the Left Side or right side trans. Another viewer posted a comment about where they got their center section cheaper Lastly, use the HydroGear Website trans diagrams as a reference when disassembling and reassembling everything for the 2100 or 2200 EZT Trans. And, make sure you clean out the trans and keep it free of any particles while doing the work, otherwise you’ll experience great sadness....
Probably around 800 hours, about 2.5 acres and one very long steep embankment that goes from 0 degrees to about 45 degrees in only 8ft from base to top…so kind of a hill.
It must take you two hours to watch 60 Minutes. Holy cow, lengthy narration. I hope you were never a teacher! But at the same time I do appreciate you having made this video. Thank you:) The center sections...are they the same for both sides? I'm guessing yes because there doesn't seem to be a left and right center section. I'm an engineer and I don't understand how the center section is getting damaged. It must be some sort of hydraulic erosion unless there's debris in the oil or interference between the housing and pump. Do you think there could be interference...parts touching each other under power causing the damage? That company is making an absolute fortune by selling those housings for $120. That cast aluminum part by itself including machining cost them less than $10 if they're making over 10,000 per year, and it seems they're beyond that number.
Lol, two hours to watch 60 Minutes. That’s funny…I can appreciate the humor, though it really only takes me about 40 minutes because I don’t have the patience to sit through commercials when a show is recorded. Yes, I believe the center sections are the same for each side. Regarding the damage, in my case I noticed it to slowly start to show signs of damage (power loss) not long after something I did on the mower. Grass was wet and in a moment of attempting to remember my youth, I began to do donuts in the wet grass, basically full speed in circles sliding the back end for probably five minutes. If I had to guess, I’d say the constant over-torquing and spinning the wheels for five minutes likely created some metal shavings from somewhere in the unit. That said, after completing the repair, I realized that a lot of oily dirt and grit coats the mower frame above the fill cap area and that has to be cleaned well before attempting to open the fill cap.
@@silentknightsaga2415 thanks! I think I might have missed something with the bypass valve when I reassembled. With it open or closed, I’m able to rotate that side freely.
Thanks.FYI, prior to doing this rebuild, the only thing I ever did to the mower myself was change the deck belt…15 times and replace a few spindles on the cutting deck. All I did was watch a bunch of videos on how to do the trans rebuild, which left me with a lot of questions, especially as I got into the thick of tearing it apart, so I shot the video as a means to help those who would experience similar issues if they decided to dive into the rebuild. I Googled the tuff torque and while I don’t know what model you have, I saw there were some rebuild videos available and looks like they actually sell rebuild kits for tuff torque as opposed to having to search for and order all the parts individually like with the Hydrogear trans. So, I was a complete novice at it prior to doing the work, now I’m less of a novice at it.
I believe it was PartsTree. Cub Cadet had them available at the time, but more expensive. That said, based on some comments several months ago, it sounds as if there’s some difficulty finding these available in recent months.
This was a good instructional video. One of the better ones on the subject. I’ll offer a little constructive criticism though, and I’m in no way jabbing at you. It should have been edited down to about 1/3 the length you have it. Also, be careful when removing the seals and keep track of your lock rings...there is no reason whatsoever to drop $30 on a “seal kit”. I did a lot better than you on the center section too. Amazon had it for $110 directly from Hydro Gear.
Hello, I know this is three years late but I just rebuilt my trans exactly as you did. The problem was fixed but about 3 hours after running, if went back to normal(loss of power, full acceleration and no movement) What could I have possibly done wrong?
And I used high quality oil, and new seals, new center piece, one new pump, sanded down the other one and cleaned the trans from debris. I’m very sad and really don’t want to have to buy a brand new trans😢
@@liamreynolds5820 blah…tough to say. Could be any number of things given all the moving parts. Potentially something as “simple” as the linkage arm or mech not engaging properly to something deeper such as the cylinder piston springs or yes, scratching of the center section. Seems like more than just a scratched center section and unlikely it got scratch so much to cause that issue in just three hours. That said, the first time I did the rebuild, it started loosing power after about, meh, three months. As much of a pain as it was to do the rebuild, I decided to bite the bullet and and disassemble it again. I discovered that the brand new center section was once again scratched so I obviously left contaminants in there. I did the rebuild over again which is when I actually shot the video and it’s worked great ever since. Is the complete power loss on one or both sides?
It’s just the left side, it is still drivable but doing a zero turn, a slight hill incline or just quick acceleration, it just barely or completely refuses to move. The right trans seems completely fine and picks up the slack of the left one for the most part.
Not familiar with that unit. It really depends on what make and model transmissions you have. If it’s a hydro gear ez 2100 or 2200, it should be exactly the same. You should be able to find the make and model somewhere on he trans casing.
Blah, 11 months ago I might have been able to speak more intelligently about it, so I’m just speculating. Is it a hydro gear transmission? Does the side that stopped make any noise when it’s engaged? Does it ever work or has it stopped completely? Was that side loosing power slowly or was it working fine and suddenly stopped? It could be something wrong with the COG brake assembly, maybe its stuck. Could be something wrong with the bypass arm or bypass rod. Could be something wrong with the control arm. Other potential might be something wrong with the internal gears, but I’d think it would make a grinding noise if so. If you were slowly loosing power over time, then it could be the pump block and center section and/or springs and pistons. Lastly, could be a leak in the gasket and you have no fluid in he trans, but I’d think you would have heard some grinding before it stopped working.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Thank you for responding. I think it is a hydro gear it did shake and jump under any kind of load towards the end of it working. when it died I pulled the hole thing out I wanted to drain the oil out to see if their was like any O-ring crap in it so I drained the fluid out of it and I got about 3/4 of a cup of tar looking oil out of it and it was so thick I could not even tell so I put in fresh 10w30. I put it back in and nothing no noise I had it jacked up with the tire off when I tried and it didn't even try to move I checked the bypass rod I moved it back and forth it kinda clicked but nothing all the linkages move normal it is a single unit meaning the pump and motor are together. but I really hope I can fix it and not half to buy a new unit.
@@gunnerstanwick6663 Well, sounds like the “joy” of cracking it open is in your future. I’d think it would be unlikely if it couldn’t be fixed, though obviously depends on what type of damage you might find. All parts are replaceable, so it’s a matter of trying to accurately diagnose what’s “broken”. There are lots of moving parts in those things, but not overly complicated. It could even be something as “simple” as a spring or tiny ring clamp that broke loose from the shaft inside. If you figure it out, no matter what you do, make sure you clean the inside well, especially given the tarry substance you found, and keep any particles out of the unit as you work through it all. That was the issue that caused my first rebuild to fail.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Well I am probably going to half to do that. I have a parts washer that might come in handy. but I will keep you posted on what I find
Hmmm, unsure. I think it depends on the make of the transmission. Not sure if all makes use oil or something else. If you know the make, then you should be able to find the correct lubricate to use I.e. on the manufacturer’s website. I’m only familiar with specs on the Hydro Gear 2100 and 2200.
I rebuilt my transaxle and it's working great. I watched a couple of other videos (that were much shorter) before I started, but they left out steps and you included *EVERY* step and tips about how you have to do this before that and stuff. I don't know if I would have been able to complete mine without your video.
Edit: When I was finished and was ready to top up the oil I didn't have anything that would work, so I went to the Dollar General and got a condiment squeeze bottle for a dollar that worked perfectly.
Glad to hear it went well. A condiment bottle? Well, hopefully it allowed you to....Ketchup on any lost time looking for a siphon pump and if I were you, I’d...relish in the creativity you used to make it work.
😂@@silentknightsaga2415
I just acquired a mower with a Hydro Transmission and regardless of the brand I knew your info would be helpful. You did a remarkable in depth Tutorial here and I'm forever grateful for your straight forward approach and thorough explanation. I'm lust a hack who fixes just about anything and rely solely upon tips and procedures from guys like you. It's 4 years since you originally posted but the info is timeless.
Two thumbs up and Thank You!
Thanks, I too am “just a hack” who fixes…well more like attempts to fix just about anything…other than when it involves 120-240 volts.
Thanks ! Very good video, all the other videos left out too many steps I had to watch yours to understand how to get back together. Good Job!!
This is by far the best video I’ve ever ever seen excellent! Your tips are golden thank you
Thanks for a comprehensive step by step video! It was extremely helpful when I tackled the left transaxle on my zero turn a few years ago and again when I recently did the right transaxle. There is one helpful hint that I gleaned from another guy's video regarding how to successfully and without any frustration replace the pump cylinder and its pistons back into the unit: place the pistons back into the cylinder and then wrap a stout rubber band around the pistons up close to where they go into the cylinder. The pressure of the rubber band is enough to keep the pistons from falling out. Put the assembly back into the unit and then use a mechanic's tweezers to grab the rubber band while using a small yet sharp scissors to cut the rubber band, then pull the cut rubber band out from around the cylinder with the tweezers. This method works like a charm and eliminates the one major source of frustration in reassembling the transaxle. I'm posting this hint for the benefit of all who visit this site.
I sure would like to thank you for all the wisdom I learned from your TH-cam mechanical instruction and rebuilding. Thanks for all the info and the humor! I wish you were my neighbor.
Thanks. LOL, Neighbors? Certainly, As long as you don’t mind over the top Halloween and Christmas decorations like that of Clark W. Griswald from Christmas Vaction….along with the ensuing calamities such as stapling one’s clothes to the fascia of the house, getting locked in the attic, and setting a chair on fire and a cousin Eddie that helps take the burnt chair to the curb and then says, “That’s a high quality item, if you don’t mind me asking…how much it set ya back.”
G'day from Australia. I'm a mechanic and Cheers for the hard work to help all of us lost wankers in the Hydro transaxle World to be a little less lost and less wanky. Love the comedy too. 😂
Welcome. Think I’ll go have a Vegemite sandwich now. Men at Work, one of my favorite groups from the 80s.
In the process of rebuilding my transmission and your video has the best details I have found of any on TH-cam. Interestingly, I had no damage internally, so in retrospect, I think it may have been a little low on oil. It was jerking at low speed, grabbing until full pressed. The other side is also showing low. Probably didn't need to crack it but this is my first exposure to these drives. At any rate I think your video helped me get it back together right as I caught a couple of things I missed. (you hate it when there are parts left over). Great finale, BTW haha.
My Cub cadet is getting old and something seems to go wrong now every few months. I was having some lower speed bucking issues a couple years ago. Surprisingly, a fuel filter change fixed it, but of course I also did a spark plug change just in case, but it was the fuel filter ultimately. Then a couple months ago, it would just bog down and sputter and not run as fast as typical and struggled to cut just low grass. Changed plugs, air filter, fuel “pump” (more like a fuel diverter on my rig), cleaned and ultimately replaced the carb and fuel filter, but didn’t solve the problem. Deep sigh knowing I had to look into it further. Determined it was only running on one of two cylinders, then determined the issue was actually with the ignition coils. Replaced both (not difficult) and it’s running like a charm once again. Lol, just getting to an age (me) where any issue now requires a deep I-don’t-have-the-energy-nor-desire-to-fix-it sigh, but I keep plugging along cuz I like to diagnose and fix shit.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Ive got a Husqvarna that feels the same way...replacing a part every other cut it feels like. Im down to the drives and the motor, on wear parts. Nice video, glad to see youre still checking up on this video 4 years later. I appreciate the in depth footage, I have the confidence to dive into these.
Only thing I did different that worked well was setting up the transmission to take apart. Instead of the blocks of wood I let it rest in a cinder block. The shaft don't touch. Used a t-shirt to cover the block. Put axle shaft through arm holes. But definitely thanks to you for the step by step. Good thing I have been a professional Bacardi Gold drinker for a while.
Long video, lots of talking and exactly what is needed to rebuild this unit. Thank you Sir for taking the time to explain and show how to take it apart and reassemble. Thanks for telling us about the mistakes you made, letting us avoid them. Hope you get many more views and subscribers.
Thanks for the comments.
My hat is off to you dude! I'm goin' in on my RZT 50 today.
Well…have fun with that…it’s a process…can be fun if you like he feeling of frustration and solving problems. A couple important things to lower the chances of disappointment - imperative to keep any dirt, dust particles out of the unit as that’s what caused the failure of the trans in the first place. Some will likely fall in as you remove he old gasket rubber so use a vacuum to help keep particles out or whatever works for you. Also, make sure you use a generous amount of the liquid gasket when resealing. Mine sprung a leak a few months ago also I Potok the trans off again and put some liquid gasket on the outside seam. Not ideal but I had no interest in taking it apart again to redo the entire gasket.
@@silentknightsaga2415 I did it!!!! It was a stuck parking brake. YES!
I am in the process of rebuilding one now and have a few tips I'd like to contribute. 1) on the RIGHT side unit (no one ever videos this one) you cannot simply disconnect the parking brake linkage, you have to remove the entire assembly from the transmission in order to work the rod out of the hole in the frame. The linkage rod is right against the frame and will not let you move it sideways to disconnect it from the parking brake control. Left side is simple, pull the pin and slide the rod right out. 2) At least on MY unit, the TORX head screw on the forward/reverse control mechanism was installed with RED LOCKTIGHT, I had to take a torch to it to break it loose. 600 lb ft impact wouldn't budge it. If it doesn't come loose like in this video, put some heat to it. 3) REALLY IMPORTANT inside the little pistons on the motor and pump units are TINY thrust washers that are apparently VERY easy to lose, I lost two of them before I even knew they were there. Easy to lose, but I have no IDEA where to get replacements, I couldn't find any and a new motor or pump is $100.00. MAYBE if you called HYDRO-GEAR they might have them? I'm a machinist so I just made new ones. 4) Which SHOULD have been #1, before you tear the tranny down to replace the center section, try changing the oil FIRST. I discovered THAT tip after I opened mine up and saw the center section was still PERFECT, not a scratch on it, but it still lost all power when it gets hot. Apparently this issue can by caused by the oil breaking down and losing viscosity when it gets hot.
I stripped my torx screw trying to get it out (by hand). I had tried heat but maybe I didn’t do it long enough. Appreciate the info. I’ll try again with more heat
I tried replacing the oil and is still not working after HOT
One month (now actually 7 months), later and the trans rebuild is still running like new.
Great video that relieves my mind on if I can do this myself.. Being 75 yrs old now and not as sharp as I used to be concerned me, but the way you went thru this so well and informative gives me inspiration to take it on.. Thanks
LOL, Yah, and I’m no mechanic or engineer. It was the first time I did anything to a lawnmower other than replace a deck belt or spindle. I was quite apprehensive about it too, but as long as you pay attention to the details, keep the inside casing free of any particles, and follow the steps, it should work out for you.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Just when I get fired up to do this I find out that they longer Cub Cadet, neither does Parts Tree have parts for my mower since it was built in 2005.. Anyway I was just wondering if you did this in 2019 and you're still mowing with it. Is everything still working now and have you noticed if the other side is acting up.. Oh one thing I think I missed in your video was you having to add more oil after you got all the air out of it. Anyway Thanks to putting out this video.. If I do mine I will have to video it just so I can remember how I took it apart. :)
@@garyhardin3619 so I actually had to do this repair twice, but to the same side. First time I did it, it worked well for a few months, then started having same issue. I’m positive the issue was getting particles from the old gasket in the unit as well as not covering the open unit as it sat in the garage over night. Second time, which is the one I video-ed, I was much more careful and diligent keeping particles out and covered it with a shirt over night. Yes, did this repair in 2019 and it is still working well with no noticeable power loss. No, there are no issues with the other side.
I got a cub cadet z-force mower I need to figure out the problem with it it tries to take off on the left side then does"nt kick on in and go the same side you fixed it acts like it bypasses I am thinking and it dies when I engage the deck any input on whats my problems and can I still get parts. For a z-force commercial mower?
Very very well done you understood what to explain for those who wanted to take a challenge. Being a 11 year maintenance mechanic you got me to take the very next step of the challenge hip hip hooray you gave me the know how THANK YOU 😃🤗
Welcome, glad you found it helpful!
I can't thank you enough for making this video. Even though my transaxle was not exactly like yours, it was close enough to be a great help. Your tips were just great. Thanks!
Welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
SilentKnight Saga, You rock brother. I completed the rebuild, using this video and the manual. Success. First cut was flawless. Thank you for your time, instruction, and shared mistakes. Also the commentary along the way, light humor, etc., was appreciated. Thanks again. (This transaxle was on my 2011 Bad Boy MZ)
Great, and hopefully you came out of it on the other end with a little more sanity than I. Mine is still going strong so, what, now 7 months later I guess. Hope yours does as well
Just rebuilt both of mine today. You're video was a huge help! Thank you so much for the time you took to make it. I'm waiting for the sealer to dry so I can fill em up and try them out.
Both? I bet that was all sorts of...fun. On my first rebuild, the seal leaked in one area and I apparently didn’t keep the inside of the casing clean enough because the center section got scratched again, so I had to redo. After being more careful with particle contamination and putting the sealant on a little thicker, it’s been going strong for over a year now.
How much were the parts?
@@djmcdonald5508 around $120 per side.
Thank you for doing this. Congratulations also in electing to plunge out into relatively unknown territory to successfully fix your mower.
Thank you. Most complete video I have found. Helped me quite a lot.
Glad it helped!
you are great technician and will a great heart willing to share your skills; I have a same cub cadet and only trying to learn to remove transmission to change oil. Thanks for all your work. God Bless
Great video!
Thanks for doing the leg work and get us the the info.
WOW!! i sure wish i saw this video when i did my rebuild. I did mine all by myself. one pointer i can give you all. is use a pair of vicescrips on the real Axel. clamp it so it does not move up and down while you are working on the case. it will help that LARGE gear not to move. you can clam it near the case (on the axle, between the hub and case) you will see. you are realing just stopping the axle from moving up and down. Great video. I should have rec mine. thanks
Hello..... I watched your video and very informative. Great Job!!!!! I repaired my Cub Cadet RZT 50 with my own labor , thanks to your video. Thank You so much!!!!
Very helpful video! Thanks for your time.
Outstanding video! Thank you so much.
Working on mine right now. One thing I truly appreciate is that you gave specific info about not removing the center section bolts before taking out the shaft. I will be putting the bolts back in to do this, cause that sucker is in tight and was wondering how to take it out without damaging something. I hope to update on this soon. Thanks so far for this video. Commentary is great.
Welcome. First time I tried the rebuild I left the bolts in and went down a bit of a frustrating road, ended up chipping the casing a bit around the rubber gasket and did some unnecessary things that cost quite a bit of time. Good luck with it. Sounds like you’re making a lot of progress. Most difficult thing after that is putting the pump with pistons back in with the center sections but if you do it as outlined in the video, it should go as smoothly as possible. Lining the hole of the pump up with the hole of the center section so the shaft fits back in can also be a bit tricky, but perseverance will win. Once it’s properly aligned, it will slide in without difficulty, no need to force it.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Awesome, thanks for those tips. I will be getting back to it in a day or two.
Thank for making this video..everyone had videos for husqvarna zero turns that have already failed or simply had a loose belt..nonetheless none of them mentioned that what if it works fine until 30 or 40min into the mow and then it starts slipping. 🤔 so instead of cutting the lawn in 3 segments I'm gonna try my luck with your tips and rebuild it...at first I was just gonna change the oil but I will probably just have the same issue. My yard has 55deg hills and it's almost 2acres so it did its job perfectly for the last 17yrs. With just a simple charging resister that went bad and a few batteries I believe I got my money out of it. Since I work doing custom machining hopefully I can repair it cheaper then buying a new 850 dollar one!
Any update Jason? I'm also a machinist and having exact symptoms. Wondering if it's thermal expansion of the cases that cause excessive bypass at half hour, or is the old oil thinning to much?
@lukemurphy9224 Well I tried changing the oil first. I used Valvoline 2050 VR 1.
And wound up with the same problem.
Not sure if it's because the oil is not for transaxles. I am gonna try amsoil transaxle oil before i rip it apart. I think the pump is just getting weak. The oil i originally changed out was shot shot. Almost water like. So im hoping that it is an oil issue. ...if not...well then i take a self taught class in rebuilding hydrostats....haha
@@jasonruch3529 Sorry, but I would be very surprised if you find any marked difference with specific hydrostatic fluids.
My (and most Bobcat branded) skid steer loaders specify to use a multigrade 15W40 engine oil for the mixed use in hydraulic and hydrostatic drive systems. Looks like you may need to do the same as me and get internal :(
I have 2 lots of transmissions to play with now as well, as I picked up a cheap 'spare unit' from parts mower and direct swapped only to find it seems to have the same issue. Both right hand sides.
I was wondering if the angle of wrap of the belt being less on this side is a contributing factor or just the way people turn the machine with chute direction etc. I'm from down under.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video!!! Ours went out and it looks like a great time to fix it with this COVID 19 lock down.
Good luck. Just remember lots of patience and persistence. Walk away from time to time if you have to, do something that keeps you grounded, then back at it with a fresh approach.
Very helpful video! I bought a used 2006 Cub Cadet RZT 50 ~3 years ago for $900 and followed this video to rebuild the Transaxles. After 5 years the left unit is loosing power so I'm going through the process again, but had a difficult time finding this video. I found several others which were not nearly as useful!. This is the best I've found on You Tube. I've found I can re-surface the Center Section using a large Sharpening Stone and wrapping the wet/dry sand paper over it. I rebuilt the right transaxle without buying any parts and am doing the left again now without any parts. I have used a spare mower blade on wood blocks across the input shaft to pull the seal out with the shaft and bearing without damaging the seal. That's the only seal I damaged on my first rebuild. Just wanted to thank you for the tips you put into this video as I find it very helpful even doing this for the 3rd time now.
@Leo Thiel let us know how that works for you. I once tried it without new parts and smoothing the aluminum center section by hand. It lasted 2 weeks. If you can do it then fine. I have not been able to make that work. Also, it seems like 90% of the time when they get weak, it’s the left side. I wish I could understand why. Does everyone favor using that side more when they run the mower? Seems unlikely to me.
@failranch9542 I have two of these mowers, (Massey Furguson version) got one cheap with failing hydro, bought a third "parts mower" and swapped them in. Same outcome, two out of the two I have that are slipping are right sides, but I'm down under, so maybe it has to do with hemispheres?
Hey dude, thanks a lot! There was a lot of good information here, very detailed. One thing to add, I rebuilt both of my Trans and you had mentioned not bothering with the axle side. Well it wasn't cleaning well enough for my liking and one ring clip holds it in so I took it apart, there is a reservoir underneath the big gear for the top bearing to stay lubed with plenty of oil. I found some grit and other pollutants in this chamber, so I cleaned it out and resealed it and while I was at it I went ahead and changed out the bearings which were only like six bucks a pair or something. I figured I had this much time and ca$h in it might as well go for it. Oh, one other thing, the breather hose on both of mine were clogged, hard to get rid of air pressure if it can't breath. I normally don't write these, just want to say thanks and share what I ran into. Btw, I think my hair line is a little higher now.
Yah, I didn’t want to press my luck with the axle. Glad you found the video helpful, and there’s always hair club for men....
Your home made spring removal tool work great on my Ferris mower. Thanks for the tip!
Glad it helped.
Thank you, great video. Noticed your Kia Soul and Dodge truck in the background. Dodge guy myself and have three Kia Souls in the family. Lol Take care and thank you for sharing your wisdom and fun. :)
Dodge man here, !992 dakota, 328000 miles. Runs like a clock
Saving this video brother in case I need it in the future. Great job. Cheers.
Thank you keep up the good work.
Tanks for this video sr
Appreciate
Saving for future use. I had to take mine off yesterday to replace fan blade. I don't know why this popped up. But Saving
Entertaining & Informative video, thank you ; )
Nice cover.
There's a brake spring tool that would make some of this job easier. It's a steel J on a T-handle. Harbor Freight sells a version for about 8 bucks. I've used it on furniture springs and trampoline springs in addition to automobile drum brake springs. Handy tool.
Thank you for your tutorial!
I'm rebuilding mine now thanks to your video. Btw use 14x1.5 oil drain plugs for the fill plugs vs the hex key bolt for easier removal and filling for future reference. I also watched the other guys video on how to prime the transaxle on the bench since this are very difficult to fill while installed. I also drilled out holes in the frame to access the plugs easier. I also plan on adding drain plugs to the casing. Putting together tomorrow. Thank you so much for this video.
Welcome, hope it all works out. We’re you able to order a center section and if so, from where? Another subscriber commented they were no longer available and I looked at several different parts sites and couldn’t find them.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Amazon got both parts the pumps rub against for $200ish new bolts and bypass key.
Was wondering if you could share any details about the size and placement of the drain plugs you installed in the casing of the transaxle you mentioned rebuilding in your comment here. We have a older EZT-2200 and thinking of putting a plug. Thanks in advance for any comment!
The best hand cleaner I've ever used is Tub O Towels sold at Amazon and Home Depot. I use them to clean anything that is covered in grease.
A bus tub makes everything neater and easier. I get them at my local restaurant supply store but amazon sells them for about $10. Place the transaxle in the tub, spray it down with degreaser, carburetor cleaner, paint thinner or whatever works for you. Then remove the oil drain plug and flip the unit upside down for draining. When you're done pour the contents into a lidded container for delivery to your local auto parts store or anyplace that changes oil for disposal. I place the used oil container in a lidded 5 gallon bucket with a stack of shop towels in the bottom and use that to transport it in my car.
Grooves on the center section can be polished off with an oil coated piece of sandpaper. Place the sandpaper on a flat surface and slide the part over it using a circular pattern. Start with 400 grit then repeat with 800 than 1200 grit until you arrive at a smooth mirror like finish.
Informative video. Thanks man.
Thanks. Nice looking Dobie in your pic.
Thank you from Cheboygab Mi
You don’t need to pump the fluid into the transmission units to refill. Doing one transmission at a time, remove fill plug near top of transmission, and fill expansion tank with fluid. Keep adding fluid until fluid weeps from open fill hole on transmission unit. Reinstall/tighten fill plug. Repeat with other side transmission. Bleed system normally, and adjust fluid level in expansion tank.
You do though because you need to purge the air from the transaxle in order to get the rest of the oil in. Unless you’re gonna remove it again after purging, fill it the rest of the way, and then reinstall it on the mower, you have to use a pump. It’s just a lot easier
Thank you Chedoygan MI
Nice one thank you 😀
Very nice video amigo and the best was the end😅😅😅😅😅
I really appreciate your video. My rebuild went pretty well. I would not have attempted to rebuild this if it wasn't for your video! I found a way to "prime the pump" after the rebuild with it out of the machine using a drill to spin the drive, and I worked the bypass/operator with my hand until it primed up. The fill hole on my RZT22 is just about impossible to access after it is installed. I made a video and gave a shout out to you. I hope you don't mind.
Glad to hear it went well and that you came out of the process still coherent and human. I’d like to see your vid.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Here's a link. th-cam.com/video/2MWIAlU388Q/w-d-xo.html
@@mattc6044 Ah, I see your trans does look a little different. Was able to use a pneumatic wrench to take off my pulley. Love how people solve their own unique puzzles they come across during their rebuild. Don’t love how companies manufacture products that make it difficult to do common maintenance like refilling the trans oil. I’ve seen some videos where people actually drilled holes through their deck to access the fill hole.
Excellent idea!!
You are a goofy individual....much like myself. I messed up as well, removing the center section bolts too early.....then I decided to go to youtube and found your video. I was able to use a slide hammer to tap the input shaft out fairly easily. A bronze wire brush works well on aluminum to remove the old silicon gasket. I use a steel wire brush on....steel. I enjoyed the video and hopefully I can repair my mower.
Lol, “goofy individual.” When I was a wee lad and was called goofy, I took it as an insult. Over the years, I learned to embrace it as a compliment, maybe much like yourself. Nowadays, I define it as quirky. Hope you were able to successfully fix your mower. If you haven’t worked on it yet, just make sure you prevent any of the gasket particles from getting inside.
@@silentknightsaga2415 yup, I fixed it. Kids say it has plenty of go and I don't hear the transmissions whine hardly at all. Thanks again for the great video.
Thank you!!
Thank you
I'd like to congratulate you on your organizational skills and oratory skills as well being from the motorcycle and diy A/C repair industry's I'd like to make some suggestions if I may, first of all when splitting cases we always used a heat gun to slightly expand the cases and to soften up the adhesives then a dead blow hammer to smack any shafts protruding from them to force them apart, have you ever thought of using nylog to seal them back, you can check out the product it's pretty impressive, also using assembly lube on any moving parts to avoid wear on power up, and preluding any seals before inserting anything in them to avoid damage? Well that's my two cents you did one hell of a job, thanks for your presentation it's one of the best I've seen on youtube.
Rick
Thanks for the suggestions. I’m a bit of a novice on these things and wasn’t aware some of those products an techniques existed. I’m sure it will be helpful to others as well. Question for you since you mentioned things like adhesives. Do you know if there is a way and a product that you can use to seal a hole or defect in an adhesive gasket versus having to tear the whole thing apart, and remove and replace the old gasket?
Just a question about sanding out the scratches. Using the wet /dry sandpaper, wouldn't the sandpaper cut faster if you use water instead of oil? Maybe use oil on the last couple of finer sandpaper.
So your saying the oil breaks down because you can't change the oil. Pump scoring from degrading oil. That makes sense. Thanks for the information and video Man. Ps. After seeing what happened to the lift side I think I would change the oil in the right side.
Thank you for this video. I think it is the best I ve seen for this mower. I like your approach to this repair. After you got the 1.7 qts. of oil in the unit was the oil all the way to the top of the fill hole? Is it safe to add oil to the drain/refil opening. Would this be too much? Thanks again for this fantastic video.
It wasn’t all the way to the top of the fill hole. It was probably around 3/4 to 4/5ths full. I’d assume if you filled it all the way up it may eventually drain down to the level of the drain hole. That said, it might be possible to create too much pressure inside the unit if it’s overfilled with oil which may harm your seals, etc. Yes, you can add the oil into the fill hole. I used a small hand pump siphon. However, you have to be diligent in ensuring you clean any dirt from on and above the hole, any dirt you may knock loose when putting oil into the unit once it’s been remounted, otherwise, you’ll ruin all your hard work.
WOW COOL
Please add links to all the replacement parts
Thank you for the great detailed video. Good advice and tips in general as a bonus when approaching any project like this, cardboard, pics, tools, removing gasket sealer, etc. You could be a pro.
Question, if you please. Did you consider drilling a drain hole, tapping it and placing a removal plugin the casing when you had it apart in order to change the oil periodically? Any reason why you might advise against doing it?
Was there a filter inside the unit and, do you think it would be safe to drill the bottom of the case, in the middle of where the filter sits? Again many thanks
Didn’t consider drilling a drain hole. I’d think it would introduce additional potential for something to fail/go wrong. Had considered drilling a hole in the frame of mower just above the fill plug to make it easier to fill. You could probably use a siphon to remove the oil. I do recall there being a plastic filter with some mesh-like material. I believe it is mounted near the axel area but don’t recall exactly. I’d like to think the company that designed and manufactures these units didn’t put a drain plug at the bottom of the casing for a reason other than to just make draining the oil more difficult for the customer.
Well, I followed a link back to your GREAT Video of repairing your transaxles. I am having to replace the belt that runs the two units and I think you have the best view of doing just that. With my memory now at the age of 75 going it makes things even harder for me remembering how things go back together.. It appears taking off the rear wheels will give me better access to the belt. Any hints you have to give would be greatly appreciated.
Brilliant video, thank you. After years, it's still the best and im so glad i found it!!
Rather quirky, i chuckled at the continual references to the "bearing thrust" and "gaskets" instead of "thrust bearing" and "seal" but whatever.
Frankly im pretty disgusted at Hydro-gear, they've let down US engineering. WTF is the centre section made from aluminium? Such a really poor material choice for a high- pressure bearing surface. Why is it not made of cast iron or the same material as the pump and motor cylinder blocks that rub against it? It seems designed to fail...and its so expensive, for a bit of cast aluminium with some easy machining. Quite disgraceful and a pretty obvious cash gouge.
I've had my rant😊 you can tell I've been servicing my EZT unit lol.
No business would ever design something not to last so they can squeeze additional cash out of customers………..
Great video!! I'm having the same issue with my 2010 Troy bilt. Parts ordered and gonna try this weekend.
Why do you think it's always the left unit?
Not sure, seems like the right side would be more susceptible given most people cut the grass with the deck shoot facing outward which means the right side transax gets used more frequently than the left in terms of pushing forward. That said, maybe the type of use with the left side is the issue as that one gets pulled back more than pushed forward. Not sure. Just make sure you are diligent about keeping the case inside completely free of any particles as you’re working on it.
Well how would you get a seized shaft out ? I messed up and removed those center section bolts first. I kinda got ahead. Lol
Where did you buy a new shaft from?
Checking it out cuz I want to build a mini tank and this is currently an option for drive train
Well, that seems like an excellent way to social distance
when putting the piston motor back, turn the case a little its side and put motor piston is at an angle this will keep them from falling out. should make it easier to reinstall.
I inherited a Craftsman Z6400 ZT lawnmower.And the left rear wheel is real oily looking like something has been leaking out plus the left side drive doesn't work as smooth or as fast as the right.What is that center nut on the axle for?Maybe somebody has loosened that and not got it back tight and it is leaking oil out of it,I just don't know and haven't used it yet other than just to see if it will mow.
It’s been awhile since I did the repair so I don’t recall how everything was connected. It MIGHT connect the wheel hub (that piece that with the 4? wheel mount screws) to the transaxle. I do recall coming across some info that there is a seal somewhere on that piece that sometimes needs replaced. The wheel hub removal wasn’t part of what I needed to do, so I’m not real familiar with it.
Regarding the oily leak, that might be where it’s coming from. Is it oily on the inside of the tire closest to the mower frame, or the out side of the tire I.e. on the rim of the wheel?
Either way, it sounds like your transaxle fluid is leaking and obviously it will likely get too low and cause eventual failure. Sounds like there is already some damage in the transaxle if you’re noticing that the left side isn’t as powerful. Could be due to that leak or could just be due to general wear and tear. My suggestion would be to enjoy all the... fun of researching that issue. There might be some pro mower repair vids that address it on TH-cam. Consider searcing for wheel hub leak, etc. You should be able to look up the parts on the Cub Cadet website.
Just finished the same job thanks to your video! Juat curious if you have had to complete the job again since the video or if the hudro-gear is still going as strong? Thanks again for the invaluable video!
The only issue I’ve had is that the liquid gasket that seals the two halves of the casing together sprung a leak after about three years. It seems to come and go. Obviously, this can cause another failure, but I’m not interested in taking it a part, removing the old seal and replacing so I just added some liquid gasket to the outside of the casing which I know isn’t the proper way nor a very effective fix, and I check the fluid level from time to time.
@silentknightsaga2415 I would do rhe same. Thanks
My fill hole has the plug with the hose on it. I have filled it and purged. But when it runs for awhile fluid just flows out the hose. A lot of it. Should that happen? Any ideas?
It’s possible you’re over filling and the fill hose may double as a purge/overflow hose. My purge hose isn’t part of the fill hole, it’s toward the bottom of one of the sides.
I look through your videos and couldn't find anything like the problem I am having. I have a Cub Cadet 46" RZT L with 190 hrs. The mower will start at times and works great. Other times it want start as if dead battery, battery is good btw, can't hear anything when trying to start the engine. Example: Cutting grass and stop the mower to take a break return starts right back up no problems. Then another time after stopping when I return no start. Go back in and after mower sets awhile or sometimes overnight it starts. I do my own maintenance being a retired Navy electrician / mechanic. Any suggestion. Tks
I’m no lawnmower expert by any means, I just did a bunch of research on the transax repair and did the video. That being said, from time to time, my mower has the same issue you describe. If it’s not making the cranking sound when you try to start, then it’s unlikely an issue with the choke. Sometimes choke will stay in the open position, but it does make the cranking sound, so I just manually close the choke lever on the engine and it starts.
This sounds like possibly one of three issues, all of which I experience from time to time, though your mower may not have the same functions as mine. Assuming the battery is good, either positive or negative terminal wire to battery could be a little loose though this is probably the least likely cause given that it continues to run once you have it started. 2. The sensor on your seat could be glitchy. Maybe try shifting your weight around a bit etc. 3. An issue somewhere with the parking break to the engine. Try engaging and disengaging the parking break a few times. Other than those three options, not sure what else it could be.
From the Hydro gear website, did you purchase a rebuild kit and a center section? I’m pulling the exact parts number off of my Hydro today to ensure exact match.
Hmmm, if I recall, I actually ordered all the parts individually from various sites. Not sure I ordered anything at all from Hydrogear. I think the only thing I used from Hydrogear were some schematics of the transax which were downloadable from their website. Mostly ordered parts from Cub Cadet and PartsTree, maybe some from Amazon. That was like five years ago and some have commented since then that they can’t seem to find the center section available anymore. I think some of the parts came as a “kit” I.e. rubber gaskets, but most were ordered individually. I don’t recall there being an all inclusive kit that would have everything you need.
I've got a zt2800 that the oil filter stud is stripped out bad. It can't be rethreaded. What would have to be done to replace the oil filter stud?
Well, I’m no professional lawnmower repair person, just a novice who repaired a transaxle successfully the second time I did it.
That said, two suggestions for you. You’ll likely need a new half of the casing, or you might want to reach out to Hydrogear customer support to see what they recommend.
I put by pass shaft in and it does not snap back either way. What am I missing.?
Bypass plate small brass square piece that goes into the centre section
Do you have a part number for the new pump? I'm needing one for a mower I got and haven't found any videos of anybody giving a part number
No, several months ago it sounded as if the pumps might not be sold anymore, however at that time I was still able to find them on partstree…though I haven’t looked for them recently so I’m not sure. Not sure if Hydrogear sells them, but here’s the number to call CUSTOMER SUPPORT
877.728.7410
I'm about to perform this rework on my RZT-50. If I have access to a mill, is there enough movement in the pistons to allow for refacing of the center section? I'm imagining I'd only be removing about .005" off those mating surfaces to clean up the grooves.....no?
So the pistons are spring loaded so to speak and while I can’t say 100% that resurfacing the center section would work, I can tell you that those pistons definitely lay very tight against the center section so one would think a .005 shave wouldn’t cause a problem. Just keep in mind, if it doesn’t work, you’ll have to do it all over again, so if you’re willing to risk that, then no big deal. Good luck with it. Remember to make sure the center section and motor/pump sections are completely free of any debris before reinstalling.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Thank you good work,
after you put the transaxle back together, is it normal that you can turn the axle by hand
Hmmm, unsure. Maybe if you turn it at the wheel hub, but given the nature of the pumps and pressure around the shaft, I’d think it would be quite difficult to turn the shaft by hand.
How many hours did this repair last?? Just curios. Thinking about doing it on my gavely zt2040.TIA
Not sure if you’re talking about how long it took to do the repair or how long the repair lasted. The repair itself took about two days, in part because you have to let the liquid gasket dry for like 24+ hours before remounting the to the axle.
With respect to how long the repair lasted, currently it has been over four years and still working. That said, two things to mention, 1) first time I did the repair, it lasted a couple months then failed because I apparently didn’t keep the inside of the unit completely particle-free/didn’t remove all particles before resealing. It’s critical to do so. When I opened it back up after it failed, there were scratches on the surface of the center section which is what causes it to fail in the first place and those scratches are caused by particles inside the unit. The liquid gasket also began to leak within those three months.
Second thing, about three years after the second repair was successful, the liquid seal began to leak. The only way to truly fix that is to remove the unit, open it back up, remove the gasket, and reseal. I didn’t want to go through that, so I just put some more gasket liquid in he seam where it was leaking. Stopped the leak for a couple months, now it seems to leak a bit every now and then.
I would really like to know what courses those parts to go bad. And does that transmission have a drain plug. And how many hours did you have on your mower when that happened.
Ran it for about eight years at that point so it probably had about 500+ hours. I guess you could remove and replace the oil if you used a siphon, but no, there’s no drain plug. Consider that even with the oil in a contained unit, it’s still lots of metal parts moving at high speed and making contact and getting extremely hot so they tend to shed some metal particles over time. Also, the way this particular mower and probably many like it is designed, the fill cap is facing up toward the underside of the frame which gets very dirty. If you don’t make sure everything around and above the fill hole is perfectly particle free when you open the cap (and it’s a tight space between the cap and frame so your hand rubs on the dirty frame when loosening and removing the cap), you’ll get dirt in the transmission which then contaminates the oil.
@@silentknightsaga2415 ok I see what you mean. I just bought me a Hustler Fas trak 54 inch mower. I never owned a o turn before. Man what a difference in productivity.
Thanks again for the information.
I haven’t seen whole video yet but do you ever change the oil in these some how?
If you’re talking about the oil in the transaxle, sort of. Because it has to be emptied of the oil before working on it, it has to be filled with oil both before remounting it, as well as topped off after you purge the transaxle, all of which are included in the video.
Do you have the part number for the cub cadet center piece. I can't find it anywhere for cub cadet.
Are you talking about the Center Section? Taking a look....so the number I’m giving you is for a cub cadet RZT 50. That said, the important info in all this is that the center section part number is for a HydroGear 2100/2200 transmission so you’ll need to confirm that’s the trans you have. It’s typically on a label somewhere on he trans housing.
Here’s how to find he Part number on the Cub Cadet website - go to Service and Parts tab, click on Find a part, enter your mower model number (typically found underneath the seat), click on Diagrams tab, then select your model number from the list, then click on the Transmission diagram (there should be one for the Left side trans “LH” and one for the right side trans “RH”), then look for the part called “Kit Center Section”. For the left side, the part number is HG-71529. For the right side it’s HG-71530.
Current price on CC Website is $147.28. You might be able to find it cheaper on I.e. Parts Tree.com or Amazon. Those transmission diagrams on the CC website are a great reference for all the parts and part numbers you may need. Just be sure you’re looking at the correct diagrams for your mower’s model number and whether it’s for the Left Side or right side trans. Another viewer posted a comment about where they got their center section cheaper
Lastly, use the HydroGear Website trans diagrams as a reference when disassembling and reassembling everything for the 2100 or 2200 EZT Trans. And, make sure you clean out the trans and keep it free of any particles while doing the work, otherwise you’ll experience great sadness....
How many hours were on that transaxle and how big was the property you were mowing, was there any hills ? Thanks in advance.
Probably around 800 hours, about 2.5 acres and one very long steep embankment that goes from 0 degrees to about 45 degrees in only 8ft from base to top…so kind of a hill.
@@silentknightsaga2415 okay thanks so much just trying to gauge longevity of the transaxle. Appreciate the quick response.
It must take you two hours to watch 60 Minutes. Holy cow, lengthy narration. I hope you were never a teacher! But at the same time I do appreciate you having made this video. Thank you:)
The center sections...are they the same for both sides? I'm guessing yes because there doesn't seem to be a left and right center section. I'm an engineer and I don't understand how the center section is getting damaged. It must be some sort of hydraulic erosion unless there's debris in the oil or interference between the housing and pump. Do you think there could be interference...parts touching each other under power causing the damage? That company is making an absolute fortune by selling those housings for $120. That cast aluminum part by itself including machining cost them less than $10 if they're making over 10,000 per year, and it seems they're beyond that number.
Lol, two hours to watch 60 Minutes. That’s funny…I can appreciate the humor, though it really only takes me about 40 minutes because I don’t have the patience to sit through commercials when a show is recorded.
Yes, I believe the center sections are the same for each side. Regarding the damage, in my case I noticed it to slowly start to show signs of damage (power loss) not long after something I did on the mower. Grass was wet and in a moment of attempting to remember my youth, I began to do donuts in the wet grass, basically full speed in circles sliding the back end for probably five minutes.
If I had to guess, I’d say the constant over-torquing and spinning the wheels for five minutes likely created some metal shavings from somewhere in the unit. That said, after completing the repair, I realized that a lot of oily dirt and grit coats the mower frame above the fill cap area and that has to be cleaned well before attempting to open the fill cap.
Where did you order your parts from?
Just to be clear. When I first install the unit back, when the fluid is still low, the axle will not move with the first step in the purging?
That is correct
@@silentknightsaga2415 thanks! I think I might have missed something with the bypass valve when I reassembled. With it open or closed, I’m able to rotate that side freely.
Great video sir,do you rebuild for other people?I have a tuff torq hydro unit,but I dont think i can pull it off,lol
Thanks.FYI, prior to doing this rebuild, the only thing I ever did to the mower myself was change the deck belt…15 times and replace a few spindles on the cutting deck. All I did was watch a bunch of videos on how to do the trans rebuild, which left me with a lot of questions, especially as I got into the thick of tearing it apart, so I shot the video as a means to help those who would experience similar issues if they decided to dive into the rebuild. I Googled the tuff torque and while I don’t know what model you have, I saw there were some rebuild videos available and looks like they actually sell rebuild kits for tuff torque as opposed to having to search for and order all the parts individually like with the Hydrogear trans. So, I was a complete novice at it prior to doing the work, now I’m less of a novice at it.
Removing the grooves from the center section pump. Start at 5: th-cam.com/video/uEeIQjLy1zk/w-d-xo.html
Where did you purchase your center section part? Thx
I believe it was PartsTree. Cub Cadet had them available at the time, but more expensive. That said, based on some comments several months ago, it sounds as if there’s some difficulty finding these available in recent months.
This was a good instructional video. One of the better ones on the subject. I’ll offer a little constructive criticism though, and I’m in no way jabbing at you. It should have been edited down to about 1/3 the length you have it. Also, be careful when removing the seals and keep track of your lock rings...there is no reason whatsoever to drop $30 on a “seal kit”. I did a lot better than you on the center section too. Amazon had it for $110 directly from Hydro Gear.
Do you got a part number for it?
@@kypyro5029 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PZSDLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Drag the razor backwards on the flat aluminum covers
Hello, I know this is three years late but I just rebuilt my trans exactly as you did. The problem was fixed but about 3 hours after running, if went back to normal(loss of power, full acceleration and no movement) What could I have possibly done wrong?
And I used high quality oil, and new seals, new center piece, one new pump, sanded down the other one and cleaned the trans from debris. I’m very sad and really don’t want to have to buy a brand new trans😢
@@liamreynolds5820 blah…tough to say. Could be any number of things given all the moving parts. Potentially something as “simple” as the linkage arm or mech not engaging properly to something deeper such as the cylinder piston springs or yes, scratching of the center section. Seems like more than just a scratched center section and unlikely it got scratch so much to cause that issue in just three hours.
That said, the first time I did the rebuild, it started loosing power after about, meh, three months. As much of a pain as it was to do the rebuild, I decided to bite the bullet and and disassemble it again. I discovered that the brand new center section was once again scratched so I obviously left contaminants in there. I did the rebuild over again which is when I actually shot the video and it’s worked great ever since.
Is the complete power loss on one or both sides?
It’s just the left side, it is still drivable but doing a zero turn, a slight hill incline or just quick acceleration, it just barely or completely refuses to move. The right trans seems completely fine and picks up the slack of the left one for the most part.
So what fixed it ? Or was the problem ?
How Much differant is a 22HP Z-Force 48 from this
Not familiar with that unit. It really depends on what make and model transmissions you have. If it’s a hydro gear ez 2100 or 2200, it should be exactly the same. You should be able to find the make and model somewhere on he trans casing.
I was mowing with my zero turn and it stoped driving on one side randomly any ideas
Blah, 11 months ago I might have been able to speak more intelligently about it, so I’m just speculating. Is it a hydro gear transmission? Does the side that stopped make any noise when it’s engaged? Does it ever work or has it stopped completely? Was that side loosing power slowly or was it working fine and suddenly stopped? It could be something wrong with the COG brake assembly, maybe its stuck. Could be something wrong with the bypass arm or bypass rod. Could be something wrong with the control arm.
Other potential might be something wrong with the internal gears, but I’d think it would make a grinding noise if so. If you were slowly loosing power over time, then it could be the pump block and center section and/or springs and pistons.
Lastly, could be a leak in the gasket and you have no fluid in he trans, but I’d think you would have heard some grinding before it stopped working.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Thank you for responding. I think it is a hydro gear it did shake and jump under any kind of load towards the end of it working. when it died I pulled the hole thing out I wanted to drain the oil out to see if their was like any O-ring crap in it so I drained the fluid out of it and I got about 3/4 of a cup of tar looking oil out of it and it was so thick I could not even tell so I put in fresh 10w30. I put it back in and nothing no noise I had it jacked up with the tire off when I tried and it didn't even try to move I checked the bypass rod I moved it back and forth it kinda clicked but nothing all the linkages move normal it is a single unit meaning the pump and motor are together. but I really hope I can fix it and not half to buy a new unit.
@@gunnerstanwick6663 Well, sounds like the “joy” of cracking it open is in your future. I’d think it would be unlikely if it couldn’t be fixed, though obviously depends on what type of damage you might find. All parts are replaceable, so it’s a matter of trying to accurately diagnose what’s “broken”. There are lots of moving parts in those things, but not overly complicated. It could even be something as “simple” as a spring or tiny ring clamp that broke loose from the shaft inside. If you figure it out, no matter what you do, make sure you clean the inside well, especially given the tarry substance you found, and keep any particles out of the unit as you work through it all. That was the issue that caused my first rebuild to fail.
@@silentknightsaga2415 Well I am probably going to half to do that. I have a parts washer that might come in handy. but I will keep you posted on what I find
Constructive criticism: Hold your phone in horizontal instead of portrait.
Tried to subscribe but it pulled up a different list of thing when I hit your page. Not sure if that makes sense
I'm putting a new hydraulic pump in my Husqvarna zero turn does the pump oil in it
Hmmm, unsure. I think it depends on the make of the transmission. Not sure if all makes use oil or something else. If you know the make, then you should be able to find the correct lubricate to use I.e. on the manufacturer’s website. I’m only familiar with specs on the Hydro Gear 2100 and 2200.
@@silentknightsaga2415 thanks for the information But I got it running great. It was the drive belt was not wasn't engaging.
Why don't you use the impact wrench to turn the pulley. That should purge the air out of the oil
Never really thought about it, seems like that would work.
I just tried to order a center kit for mine and they told me it's no longer available
Did you check all the sites mentioned at he end of the video?
According to another subscriber, you can get the part on Amazon in case you’re still trying to source the parts
I have seen a guy sand the center body also with a flat bar and sand paper
That’s probably a better way to help sand it more evenly.
sound was so low could rear al your good inst.