Cub Cadet RZT 50 Hydrostatic Transmission Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2017
- This video describes the basic rebuild procedure for a hydro-static transmission commonly found on lawn equipment.
One step I was unable to capture on the video. The face of the motor was also scarred. I used 1000 grit wet sand paper to resurface the face. Without this step, you will get limited improvement on the repair.
Hey brother. I too am a follower of Christ and a pastor and a lawnmower mechanic as well. Glad I found you!
Excellent video. Well done. Learned many things watching this.
It's very important to fill and bleed the air out correctly before moving it by putting it in free wheel and running the pumps forward to neutral to reverse 10 times then shut off & unscrew the main cap and make sure it's completely filled another good idea is to add oil to each component as there being fitted together
The absolute best !!!! You did an excellent job of walking us through !
Gald to lend a hand!
I have a similar situation on a similar mower, power loss after the mower warms up on one of the transmissions.
I just wanted to say thanks for the video, I was a little skeptical about reworking the transmission but after viewing your video, I realize this is baby stuff compared to the things I've worked on in the past. Thanks for uploading, God bless you.
Thanks for the video ! We were looking for someone who could show us backyard mechanics how to to repair one of these Hydro-Static Trans. Prayer answered God Bless
* Firefox Glad I could help. make sure you inspect the face of the pump and motor cylinders. if they are scratched as well then you can use 1000 grit sandpaper wet / dry sand paper to clean them up. I failed to capture that step in the video. Best of luck with your repair.
Outstanding video! Very well done and explained.
Thanks Sandra. One step I was unable to capture on the video. The face of the motor was also scarred. I used 1000 grit wet sand paper to resurface the face. Without this step, you will get limited improvement on the repair.
Good job pastor Wesley and let you heart not be troubled.
Rene Gonzalez Thank you my friend!
Rene Gonzalez ok thank you
I've been a mechanic for close to 50 years and I do these all the time. I admire the way you tackled this job without ever having done one before. The only negative thing I have to say about the job is you made the same mistake most amateurs make..... WAY to much and wrong type of case sealer. You're sealing a case, not icing a cake!!!! The same bead of excess RV sealer that is showing on the outside of your case when you had the unit reassembled is also showing on the inside. Those swash plate piston do not like that stuff when it breaks down, and it will break down. RV sealer is antique technology. I've been using PERMATEX GASKET ELIMINATOR exclusively since it first came over 20 years ago. The tube cap is purposely designed to lay down a bead about the thickness of a #2 pencil lead. THAT'S ALL YOU NEED. I can't even count the number of engines, transmissions, and other components I've rebuilt using this stuff over the years and I've never had a single leak. That's my tip to you.... use the good stuff and don't act like your "tagging" a railroad car, otherwise nice job.
BOB Driver Bob, thanks for the comments and corrections!
The Hydro-Gear factory service manual actual says the sealer bead for both the center section and the case should be no more than 1/16" to 1/8" wide. If you go to hydro-gear.com, they actually sell their own proprietary sealer. It's also an "anaerobic sealer" like the Gasket Eliminator
@@resurrectionauto670 Bob I have seen you post on alot of these repairs videos. When you do a repair next time can you record it for everyone. I always like doing a good job so all the help is appreciated as I'm diyer not a mechanic. Thanks.
I am going to attempt to fix my 50 Rzt transmission
@@robbiemorris4970 I got my zt 2800 out of the scag gonna do mine soon. Good luck to you.
Have a 2009 with a weak left hand side transmission. Answered the question just fine. Having it picked up on Wednesday to be overhauled by someone with the tools and experience to do it. Although I'm a mechanical engineer I know when I need to bring in the experts.
wonderful video keep up the good work God bless...
dustin divirgilio Thanks for the comment Dustin.
Where did you get rebuild kit?
Thank you for your video and God bless you
I subscribed because of this video.
Thank you.
forced23 Thank you for subscribing. please take note of the step in the description. Using 1000 grit wet / dry sandpaper, I sanded the the face of the motor cylinder to remove scratches. I was unable to capture it on video. Best of luck with your repair!
Great job! I have a feeling mine will need this soon. I broke a few blades off of the transmission pump fan. Ordered the replacement but haven't taken the time to pull the transmission.
TightWadRepairs Make sure you check for wear / scratches on the pump and motor faces. You may need to replace them or at least resurface. Best of luck with your repair!
Wesley Garner You mention changing the oil last season, how did you drain it? Do you have to force fill it or will the oil just pour in with a funnel? How do you get the air out?
TightWadRepairs Good questions. The drain plug is just in front of the vent tube. Transmission has to be removed to drain. Fill with funnel. Purge air by activating by pass valve and moving lever back and forth will trans mission is installed with engine running. Make sense?
Wesley Garner Thank you for your prompt and detailed answers. You should consider getting a tripod for your phone so you can record yourself removing parts. My subscribers expressed appreciation once I started showing the work. I now film with a GoPro so I can just leave it recording. The audio is now subpar but the video is great.
AWESOME VIDEO!!! THANK YOU!!
Nice 👍 I have a Troy built rzt 50 and the right side won't work like it should I believe I'm Gona give it a shot. Thanks . God Bless.
Thanks for comment Milton. The video should help you out. I failed to capture one step. The motor and pump faces needed resurfacing. I used wet sandpaper to clean up all the grooves. Otherwise the repair will not be effective.
My 2009 Ariens zoom zero turn has the identical hydrostatic transmission with the same problem. I've had taken the cover off to see inside but didn't know where to begin. thanks for the info. BTW I have the same shoes.
Bhar 1420 Glad the video is helpful. One step I was unable to capture is resurfacing the pump and motor faces. Make sure to read the video description for details. Let me know if you have questions. Best of luck with your repair.
Interesting. I’ve never seen a right-side fail. I’ve seen several left sides. Good to see that maybe there is some symmetry to the failures
Great video, thank you
Would it be possible to replace my 54" Craftman Zero Turn Hydro Trans to Commercial Hydrostatic Trans for easier maintenance ???
Thanks brother this was a great help God bless , Evangelist Jesse DeJesus from Pennsylvania
Really well Made video
Thank you!
Disregard I figured it out
I speak blessings over ur family and ur ministry
Hi. Could you tell me where I can get this spare part to buy it online from my country? Thank you
Great job 👍. You might have used wet sand paper on the pump mettle part. But all in all you did really good.
Nice job! God Bless
What size nut was holding down the fan pulley? I can’t seem to find the right size. Plz help. Thanks
Great video, Wesley. Could you post the video you mention from "last year" showing how to drain / fill one of these things?
Jack MacDonald Thanks Jack. I see if I can hunt that video down to repost.
was it making any loud whining noises prior to the failures?
If I can't get the fill stop with the Allen wrench can I just fill it with the other one beside it?
Thanks for this video help alot
Found your video here, you did a
excellent job on this, I have Toro Timecutter and I want to replace the belt for these pumps and you really help with your video. Sub'd ya too
I need to know what you did at 9:40 to get that pump out. I cannot seem to figure that out.
Thanks for the video - I'm thinking of adding a drain plug to both hydros on my RZT - would most think that in front of the filter, near the case cover is ok? 7:40 And is the breather hole good to refill, or is that allen bolt near it good for refilling? Thanks
Good question Matt. There should be a fill plug at the top of the transmission. You should not need to change fluid very often so I'm not sure I would add a drain plug. Best of luck with your repair!
I change my trans fluid every year. That fluid is a 20w50 and that fluid gets extremely hot during normal operation. So it WILL break down.
Great info but I am wondering I have a 05 cadet V Force 3 Z Turn and one of my hydro units started doing the same thing. My question is are mine the same and if so I heard you say where you got parts from but no part #s is it possible to get Part numbers for the items you replaced. God Bless and Thank You
Dad Sr Yes, the fundamental concept is the same. The details of the assembly will likely be different. I believe I purchased my parts from hydrogear. Best I'd luck with your repair
I have a Question
I have a Cub Cadet RZT-50, it will not move forward but it will move in reverse. What will cause t
Thanks brother! 🙏🏼
Awesome Job !!!! Amen
Dean Mackey Thank you Dean!
Hey do you have a link for the rebuild kit? I have someone that needs to rebuild their mower but can't find the kit to do so. I done mine a long time ago and forgot where I got the parts!
Great video! I have a Troy Bilt that is weak on both sides, guess i will have to check it out.
edwin rance If you decide to rebuild, make sure you inspect the motor and pump faces for wear. See description for more details.
Wish you were close to Shreveport, id let you rebuild them. lol
edwin rance I'd do it for free if I could.
Well the mower works great!
mark kirk Great job. Glad you got it going!
How many hours were on the transaxle and how big was the property you were mowing, were there any hills? Thanks in advance.
Where did you download the repair manual from
What was the name of the part you replaced thanks
Where you horder the parts i have mustang troy bilt 50 inches i need the seal kit
Can you show how you took that bolt out with the star head on it. I’ve been trying on mine and haven’t had any luck
Eric Grigoleit Good Question Eric. What time in the video does it appear? I'll do my best to give you a hand. Also make sure you resurface the motor and pump faces outlined in the description of this video. I was unable to capture that step on video.
Great job! I am trying to get a rebuild kit for my 60" Cub Cadet ZT2800. Can't find the kit, Can you tell me where to find it? Thanks so much
Good question. Its been a while since the rebuild so I really don't remember. Make sure to read the description in the video. You'll need to resurface the pump and motor faces. Best of luck with your repair.
My center face is ok on both sides and the pistons seems ok
I have a broken cradle bearing and the manual is saying its only available with a new case, but I found the cradle bearings sold separately. Have you ever replaced those? Not sure if they just rest there in the case or if they are adhered in some kind of way.
Good question. I have not replaced them.
Very informative
I am having trouble with my Hydrogear. I was wanting to rebuild it but I am having trouble finding some parts. I tried one of the links in the comments but I cannot find any parts. I appreciate you help.
Jacob. It's been a while since I did this job. I will look around to see if I can post a vendor for parts. Give a day or so.
Hi sir I have the same problem with my mower is like that can tell me the code of the parts you bought for the mower
Good question. You can find the web address in the comments below. Best of luck with your repair
You say you made a video of changing the fluid a year before this one, that's the one I want to see, but I went to your page and couldn't find it. Can you add the link or send it to me for the changing of the hydro oil? Thanks.
You have to remove the hydro transmissions and dump the oil of the fill plug. unfortunately there's not a drain plug on these units
I’m going to be doing the to mine I was wondering how long the repair lasted is it still working properly?
Great question Tony. Yes, the repair was effective and long lasting. There is one step that I did not capture on video but it's very important. You may need to resurface the pump and motor faces to remove scratches. Check the video description on how to do that. Feel free to message me with any questions. Best of luck with your repair!
It took me about 7 hours but works good.
wesley, can you show a video of how to purge the system also
also how does the pump shaft come out, the one the fan was attached to, got all the plastic pieces and snap ring off and the bearing is showing now, but I can not get the shaft out..that section was not in video just the afterwards..thank you
What is the part number on that center section? Mine is bad as well. Thanks for the video!
I purchased the part from this vendor. They were super helpful. Make sure you inspect the face of the pump and motor. If scratched, you will need to replace or rework as described in the description of this video. Best of luck!
www.hydrogearpartstore.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw9_jJBRCXycSarr3csWcSJABthk07YB-vPKZY-UB9lYtPC15o4wZKN2amOk3-GOE8lduyZxoCFbXw_wcB
I Found it on Ebay. that and seal kit was $123.00. Better than $800.00 for transmission! Thanks!
How do you Purge the air?
I find your video incomplete I am in the process of rebuilding one and followed you instructions , but when I came to removing the control levers and and the pump shaft I could not find any detail showing how they were removed both have interior bearings and the shafts do not just pull out I have all the bolts loose with the shafts still in and cannot pull the pumps out. MORE DETAIL PLEASE
Jeff. Thanks for the comment. You're probably correct. It was the first time I had repair that item so trying to shoot video was some what difficult. Sorry about that. Another step I failed to capture was resurfacing the motor and pump faces. Check the description for those details. Best of luck with your repair.
Where did you get the center section. I have googled this to death and I can not find this center section
Kenneth Schwiebert Good question Ken. Here is the website. Also, make sure you inspect the pump face and motor face for scratches or uneven wear. They may need to be replaced or reworked per video description. www.hydrogearpartstore.com
Awesome video Sir, I really appreciate it. Would you by any chance still have the website links to both the parts, and the rebuild instructions that you used?? Seems like google just wants me to buy whole new transmision lol. Thank you.
Good question. I do not have that those links. It's been a while since the repair. Also check out the comment section of this video concerning the motor and pump faces.
@@resurrectionauto670 Ok, thanks for your help Sir.
I rebuilt my transmission and now the mower wont move at all. Any ideas?
Check to see if you have the cylinders backwards. The one with the 7 pistons goes to the squash plate.don't forget to keep an eye out for the bypass plate.
So.... did it work?
Do you have links for the rebuild manual?
So sorry. It been a while since I did this repair. I don't have the links. Do read the description in this video to address the motor and pump heads
After 6 years do you still have this mower? If so, how’s it running?
I have a 2009 model w/o any issues and definitely used it a lot. Right now I’m sand blasting and repainting the entire thing. Funny part is I pulled the original drive belt off and it was unbelievable that it didn’t break after all this time….
Anyway, thank you for posting this video 😁
Pump & motor can be done using the same procedure as in my last comments.
Thanks for the video, but I'm stuck. I have removed the three bolts from the center section and it won't lift out. Your video didn't show how to remove the input shaft, which is probably what I need to do to remove the center.
Whisky Ridge Yes. You are correct. You'll have to remove to o input shaft. I apologize for not showing that step clearly. Also, you'll need to check the motor and pump faces for wear as well. They can be resurfaced or replaced.
my transmission seems to whine really bad and doesn't seem to pull as good as it use to and was wondering if you think the transmission needs to be rebuilt or just change the oil
Jason phillips Good question Jason. I would make sure the transmission is full of oil. Low oil can definitely effect preformance. If it is full and still does not pull well, it will need rebuild. Make sure you resurface the pump and motor faces as well as replace the center section. Best of luck with your repair.
thx so much
Great video 👍 anyone know what's that oil reservoir underneath the seat for ?
The oil reservoir under the seat is to allow for expansion of the hydraulic fluid when it heats up. You want only 1/4" of fluid in this reservoir when cold. Do not be tempted to add more oil thinking it will fix something. Too much hydraulic oil in the reservoir will create issues.
Ron Athon - what is that hydraulic fluid powering (moving)?
Well it runs but is weak on the left side! push both handles forward and it goes off to the left!
Well I put in a new center piece in mine and put it together but went to purge it and it just won't move. You can hear the pump running but no wheel movement. I will pull it out tomorrow and see what is up?
mark kirk Good afternoon Mark. Inspect the face of the pump and motor for corresponding scratches. You can use 1000 grit wet - dry sand paper to clean them up. Place the sand paper on a flat surface and work the face against it. You will begin to see the defects as the sand paper removes material. Hope that helps. Let me know if I can be of help.
Wesley Garner I did that before putting it together
I will try to figure it out tomorrow. maybe it needs more oil? but I put almost 2 quarts in it.
Mark Kirk it took some time for the oil to begin to pump in mine. perhaps a little more purging will do the trick.
Wesley Garner I will let it sit overnight and start it and purge it again in the morning! thanks!
Thanks. I would love to hire you to do the transmission in ours. :)
Thanks Sheldon. If you tackle this job, make sure you read the description in the video. There is one step I was unable to capture in the video. Best of luck with your mower!
@@resurrectionauto670 We had a transmission go out a couple of years ago. One of our Board members replaced it. Now there is oil on the ground under the right one. I don't remember which one we replaced. The leak can't be a good sign. I'm guessing it is going to a shop soon before it totally goes out. :( I too am in the ministry. Almost 46 years now. Just for grins, if you have time, check out www.GoliathsSpear.com Would love to come to your church. We have been to 23 states with it in the last 18 months. God is good.
Can you do a video of adjusting the controls and the return to neutral. I can't find any good videos.
Good question Michael. I've since sold my zero turn so I don't have a way to shoot the video. Sorry about that!
@@resurrectionauto670 no worries, my ZTM goes fast in forward but super slow in reverse. I have tried adjusting things but haven't figured out a solution
How long do you warranty the repair work ????90 days or 6 months ???
This repair was for my personal mower. I used it for several years with no problem. Eventually I sold the mower
Great video! The left hydro on my Cub Cadet lzt54 was behaving the same. After watching your video (many times), I got the courage to rebuild my EZT. I replaced the center assembly only and did the purge. However, the left hydro still exhibits loss of power after running a few minutes. Any ideas as to what else would need to be replaced. I examined the pumps and didn't see any obvious need to replace them.
Chocolate Lab Good question. The pump and motor likely have wear on the face. It may be just a few thousanths of an inch. That is enough to allow fluid blow by and loss of power. You can replace them or using 1000 grit wet dry sand paper, resurface them. Lay the sand paper on a smooth flat countertop and move the face over it. Sand until the surface is completely smooth. Hope this helps!
I replaced the pump and motor this weekend. She works great again!
Fantastic! Good job!
Chocolate Lab can anyone help me i have the same exact model numbers.. can u post the link site to order parts. I want to get 2 center sections 4 piston set n seal kits.. working in both transmissions.
Resurrection auto i think u did very well. Im just have a hard time finding parts. Can u help me?
One more question I have for you. If you can resurface the face of one part with sand paper why couldn’t you do the same on the face of the center section?
Its possible but the shape of the part is awkward not allowing for clean access. You're likely to make is more uneven. Make sense?
They don’t wont us fixing them at all
After a matter of time shop will get tired of trying to warrant these and just install new ones
DID YOU CHECK THE FACE OF THE BLOCK THAT RODE ON THE DAMAGED CENTER FACE?
Great question. I actually resurfaced it using wet sand paper. Check out the description in the video for more details
I have a question for you sir! How did you go about getting the pulley off of that thing. I have the exact same mower and I can’t get it off.
Good question Terry. I used a electric impact wrench. I was really tight! I don't know another way. Remember also to inspect the face of the pump and motor for wear. See the video description for more info. Best of luck with your repair.
I got the nut off of the pulley but I can’t get the pulley itself to budge. Any suggestions?
@@terryryman6504 a hammer or rubber mallet.
I have this issue with the left side of a 2008 RZT50 Cub Cadet that was given to me. It has 500 hours on it. I contacted Hydro Gear for a rebuild kit, and they told me to go to a local dealer to order the parts I need. Does that sound right? Perhaps the parts could be found on eBay, if I knew the exact parts I needed. Is it just the Center Section and Seal Kit? Thanks for the video and your help! Now I know I can do this and save a lot of money, while gaining a quality machine.
Richard Ballew Great questions Richard. I purchased the parts on line. The model of the transmission should be on an attached label. Make sure you inspect the faces of the pump and motor. They may need to be resurfaced. I was unable to capture that step in the video. I used wet sand paper on a marble counter top. I laid the sand paper face up and moved the face of the motor / pump over. Each one took about 20 min to resurface. It's and important step.
Resurrection Auto Grateful! Ty
Resurrection Auto Thank you. How did you determine which internal parts needed replaced?
Richard Ballew You'll need to replace all the soft parts like gaskets. The loss of power is a result of internal leak likely from the interface between the pump and center section or center section and motor or both. The safest thing to do is replace all three bit it is expensive. The faces of the pump and motor can be resurfaced.
Superb well explained video. It's also nice that you're not a potty mouth 17 year old
i changed the center section in the right side tran but it still wont move good any thawts on it
wildhorse100tom Yes. Did you inspect the faces of the motor and pump. If they are worn, you will still have pressure loss. To correct, see the description in this video. Let me know if you have any questions
You have to purge them, won't work until you do.
Where did you download the instruction manual?
Timothy Brown I honestly don't remember. I think it was directly from hydrogear. Best of luck with your repair.
Resurrection Auto thank you sir!
So did this fix the problem or did it start to fail again after it got real hot?
You should probably check the wear on the pump and motor faces. Sometimes the fluid blow by is caused when there are worn.
@@resurrectionauto670 what...
@@edp9811 if you find you are still experiencing lag when hot in the transmission after replacing the center then there is likely wear on the pump and motor faces.
I found the problem. the bearing fell down when I was putting in motor and center block. it got bound up causing the wheel not to turn.
Mark Kirk Awesome. Good work!
Put it back together after getting bearing and it seems a little better but still drifts to the left with both handles pushed forward and the blades engaged. i lightly sanded the surface of the pump face as well as the motor block face. Should i have replaced pump and motor you think?
Mark. Thanks for the comment. I had to sand the motor surface a lot. I put the wet / dry sandpaper on a perfectly smooth counter top. Then I held the motor face down to sand. As I removed material, I could see exactly the amount of scaring. The sandpaper left the metal shiny in contacted areas. Uncontacted areas remained dull. I continued until the entire surface was completely smooth. I took about 20 minutes and 5 sheets of sand paper. Hope that helps.
I went ahead and ordered another center section as well as a new motor. I would rather be safe than sorry! I did sand the pump side though! It was not too bad. I should be good to go now.
How did you get the bad part out ?
Josh Collins Thanks for the question Josh. Can you give me a little more information?
Wesley Garner the part that is below the pump the part that had the notch out of it do you have a complete video of the entire tare down
Awesome PT
PTL
Did this fix the problem. My right side is doing the same thing.
Yes it did. There is one step that I missed in shooting the video that is important. You need to resurface the pump faces as they likely are grooved.
@@resurrectionauto670 thank you sir!!!
What parts did you buy?
@@brianjenkins1261 just the center support and the seal kit. I resurfaced the pump faces with 1000 grit sandpaper
@@brianjenkins1261 do you know how to resurface them?
I can rebuild that pump assembly for penny's the only parts I'll buy is the seals. I use high tack spray sealer on sump plate the moment it's assembly I put the 20-50 full senthetic bolt it back and ready for service
The steel pump and motor drums spin against the aluminum center section/ sump plate, your high tack spray would generate friction and be rubbed off in seconds.
The metal on the center piece of the pump face needs to be sanded down with sandpaper and oil!
Howdy.Great Video.fo ya all info.The center piece can be oil wet honed in (3) easy steps.#1 400 grit for 3 minutes using a stone wrapped in 400 gtit circular motion.Repeat same using 600grit.Repeat using 1000 grit.
Needs a steel center section, the steel on aluminum design is planned/engineered failure. Only reason to have a hard metal spinning against a soft metal.
You never showed how to purge the air out sir.
Christian Life 👍👍♥️♥️
Good video, but you did not film way to much stuff.
If you did not clean up the faces on the pump and motor, it will destroy that new center section as soon as you start it.
I cleaned my pump and motor but had the bearing fall on the motor side and i jammed it in without noticing and i believe I smoked the new center section. Plus my motor doesn't look all that great! So I am replacing the center section again and the motor block as well! Man you have to be careful with these transmissions!
Changing the oil is importance as well as the cooling fan with a clean trans 😮
Don’t tow with them 😢😢😢
You skipped how to remove the belt pulley without damaging it
I'd rather use a paper gasket.
I've seen gasket maker cause problems in something like that, in time.
Nice video too bad you totally skipped some very important parts on disassembly and reassembly of the hydraulic motor. This is totally useless to me. gotta look elsewhere.