Modified Epson C86 PCB Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 เม.ย. 2012
- An updated version of the video showing my modified Epson C86 printer printing onto copper clad board to create a Test PCB. This updated video features my newly created video introduction and infographics.
Find out more about the build process here: www.instructables.com/id/Conve... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Very nice conversion!
I've actually moved towards making prototype boards with my ShapeOko CNC recently.
The printer works well with double-sided boards if you print a test image and then align the board over it when you print the actual board. For the boards I've created using a few test vias I can usually align the top and bottom of the board well enough.
I'm not sure what your tolerances are, but if you need to be exact you're going to probably need to build a better alignment rig.
As you can see, some places on the brass sheet are completely eroded as in others it is corroded only until some point. It's why a perfect alignment is mandatory to me. Do you think it's possible to have this level of aligment precision? Thanks again, Willian!
nice job!
What are you using as ink?
Regular printer ink is not good for etching, right?
Wow! Do you have a blog post or tutorial about this?
Hola.
Estoy modificando una vieja C84 y tengo una pregunta.
¿Qué distancia ha de haber entre el cabezal de impresión y la placa?
¿Cuántos milímetros subiste el conjunto de impresión?
Gracias.
and could help me choose the best printer and what is easier to work with the sensor to build one for me
Hello.
I'm modifying an old C84 and I have a question.
What distance should be between the print head and the plate?
How many millimeters uploaded the whole print?
Thank you.
What etchant do you use? ordinary ink is etched out by the FeCl.
went to your website and saw the cnc post. any way you could make me/cost estimate building an extension bracket to convert an outrunner dc brushless hobby motor into a spindle? from what ive seen people replace the shaft with a 8mm str8 shank with Collet on one end. Then then machine a bracket that allows them to add an extra bearing to take lateral stresses off the motor bearing at collet end of shaft. I have a speed controller, linear slide rail and speed controller and 4.6in long shank but am still waiting on the damn 5055 800kv 1450w motor from china. it should do 20k rpms at 25v. I want to do a drill press first hence just one rail and hopefully a friend with a welder for a steel frame to suspend it on but the extra bracket for handling the lateral motion of cnc is the part i figure will be hardest to come by so im already looking.
Why doesn't this exist in production yet? The technology's all here. Etch resist, solder mask, and silkscreen, all in 1 machine!
Ever thought of adding small ovens at the entrance for preheat/baking?
The ink is a heat set pigment ink called Mis Pro. I use the yellow ink because from what I've read it stands up to etching the best. I've added a link in the video description that will take you to my Instructable which covers the whole build process and talks about the ink as well.
Nice jog! congratulations!.
excelente amigo felicitaciones.......
Id like to know too. What kind of ink?
Great work man! Have you tried using normal Epson DuraBrite ink? I tried it here but the ink dissolves during the etching process with ferric chloride.
I did try the standard Epson inks as an initial test. As you mentioned they didn't stand up to the etching process very well. If I remember correctly the Magenta ink held up best, but even then it had a lot of pinholes where the etchant dissolved right through. Once I found the Mispro ink that you can thermal set I had great results and gave up on the Epson inks.
Hi friend! I'm going to modify an printer like this to direct print on brass for photoetching parts production. I need a very precision alignment solution for double side printing. I have no idea on how to solve this issue. Could you help me in some way? Thanks in advance!
Very interesting. I have a question: how does the printer head know not to get too close to the copper - since it's quite a bit thicker? Is there a sensor there, or are you setting that depth either in a GUI or physically when you set up the print bed?
I actually cut the frame and put in spacers to lift the carriage higher to account for the added thickness of the copper.
What ink do you use so it doesn't fade?
All I did was measure the thickness of the copperclad boards I was using and then tried to lift the printer carriage as close to that distance as I could. That should keep the distance roughly that same as when the printer originally printed on paper.
Is the ink water ressitant?
Hi, thanks for sharing
I want to try your method for printing on wood veneers. (Approx: 1-1,5 mm. thickness)
Do you think that is possible?
And, I couldnt understand how the printer pull/take the sheet at the first movement. Do you push it from the back a little bit when it starts to feed? (There must be two rollers for pulling the sheet -one is at the top one is at the bottom logically :)) but you have only one shaft at the bottom.
Could you help some please;)
Oh sorry.. okey . you push the carrier. But even so, carrier is pretty heavy I think.. how does priter drive it?
Than second question is about the feeding sensor. It seems like there is one sensor but, there are two missions about the paper. 1: paper detection 2: paper's position detection. Does the same sensor do both missions?
how to fix paper sensor for work i used dtg printer canon iP2702 printer system but i have problem w sensor
hi Ryan ~ i can not find the epson 8 family~ do i use the epson l120 ?
does it work ?
neighbor ur, that's an interesting printer model I've not seen before. From the technical specs it uses the same piezo head printing technology so my guess would be that it will work. Granted I've never had hands on one of those printers and it will take some work on your part to open it up and verify that it can be lifted properly and the paper pathway can be modified to lay flat out the back of the printer. From first glance of pictures on the Epson site I think it could be possible, but you'll have to open one up and study it to be sure.
Ryan Pourcillie thanks and i will try it
some guy at the group that announced itself below made it way cooler. /more convient ...actually hotter... there is a build floating around with a quartz ir heater tube before and after the printer to preheat and set ink
John Wuethrich sounds pretty impressive, do you have a link to the build? I still use this printer so if I can improve it to be completely automated for boards that'd be great.
ill try to find it again some time soon, trying to get a few uv processed boards done at moment and when i looked again ive couldnt get back to the form page the dude had posted the pics on...it was burried somewhere between pg 35 and 50 on a cad/cam/milling form but ive seen it on the yahoo group too. the pics on the form/form software pissed me off big time because it was one of those poorly written/ancient php or cgi form packages and by the time you registered the origional page you clicked reg from was hard to find again (instead of auto redirect after reg)
if you find it and decide to give it a try i have a suggestion: thrift store/second hand stores usually have toaster ovens that the heating elements can be sourced from for less than buying them new. Im working on a reflow oven with a from scratch frame (toaster ovens are never very insulated) so it can sit in a rack or under a shelf with out being a fire hazard...ive sourced 4 same wattage and length, like new quartz ir elements for 12 bucks from a thrift store down the street (2 ovens)
have you tried adding the heating elements yet?
also is that just standard forced air/heat ducting metal from like hd? did you cut it find a standard width? if u cut it, what did you use? ive tried tinsnips in the past but am never satisfied with the quality of that cut
I don't really have any experience with the model of printer you're using so I'm not sure how to help you with your paper sensor problem.
Hi Ryan! Thansk for your fast response and attention!
Actually, I do have a 600x500 mm CNC too. It's fine to mill PCB, but what I want to do is a little bit different and I think it's not possible using an CNC. Well, maybe a laser one would do great! Please take a look here: img534.imageshack.us/img534/1630/dscf6594k.jpg
If you set the ink by heating it more, Durabrite inks can work, too. And MISPRO will work better. More info about temperature and time here:
groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Inkjet_PCB_Construction/info
Can I do this with HP D1360 inkjet printer? Please reply
no. epson and cannon only. it has to do with how the print heads work. E & C use vibration everyone else uses heat ...notice how heat set the pigment ink? not good if its inside your print head.
I should add that in theory brother printers can do it too. I loved my muti function for the price but in practice...when applied for the needs of thin traces at predetermined spaces it would have been shit. Most of what i have read has recomended avoiding brother printers for the same reasons i noticed while printing and coppying documents. again. was hard to beat for what i used it for when it worked.
nice job, looks like mine, hehe, but with the epson D92. however, I'm not using the original epson ink, but some cheap ink with compatible cartridges , see my video, .
Nice doing man ! continue,
now you need to modify inc :)
Ale, you can go to my website www.ryanpourcillie.com and find contact info there as well as a link to an Instructable for the printer that will give you step-by-step directions of the whole process.