Thanks for making this video! my battery drained faster then expected, now I know why, the amp draw is a little higher then advertised. I believe it’s listed as 5ah on low and 15 on high. I may need to get a second battery.
Glad to hear it was useful information for you! Yea it for sure drains more the heavier the kayak is as well. I noticed when I had all my fishing gear on it that I was drawing about 9 amps on low and around 19 on high!
I was using a 35ah lead acid for this testing but I did upgrade to a lithium iron phosphate and haven’t had any issues so far. Maybe watersnake just hasn’t tested them much on lithiums so they’re hesitant to say it’s ok, not sure. Here’s the link to battery I’m using now: m.aliexpress.com/item/3256803618604245.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.af101802QWmUXJ&gatewayAdapt=Pc2Msite
Awesome video so a 100 ah battery at full speed would last ruffly 5.8hrs? Thats pretty good considering im really only going to be using it half the time going back to start the drift over
@@waterboy5164 that’s correct 👍 if you weigh down the kayak with a bunch of gear you may draw a little more amps but you still would easily get 5hrs on high. That’s what I’m saying man, this little motor rocks!
@@PeterRanieriII awesome thanks I bought 2 of those motors one for me and brother. What size breaker do I use 30? I also need to order batteries. Do you have any links to help the channel out?
@Waterboy5164 awesome man, they are hard to get right now. Was actually looking to get another as a backup. I would use a 30amp breaker: amzn.to/3LNmmly watersnake recommends 25amp but those could be tough to find. for the 100ah battery just buy the cheapest one on amazon as they essentially are all sourced from china (even the expensive US based companies like ampedoutdoors, etc. source the cells from china) Heres a link to one I found: amzn.to/3WkBdca you dont have to buy that one but if you buy anything from that linked page it will help me out 👍
@@TheSargeOnTheWater with the old 35ah lead acid battery I would get about 2 hours on high and 4 hours on low. But now I have an 80ah lithium and I get 4 hours on high and over 8 hours on low.
Thanks, it was actually very cheap to build too. Here's a link to the video I show how to make it: th-cam.com/video/Q7ZQ1j4oo2I/w-d-xo.html I've since been using a LiPO4 battery since but this helped me understand how much AH to get
for this test i just used a cheap lead acid 35ah which i had lying around. I then purchased an 80ah lithium after doing these tests for the motor and still use that one today: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803618604245.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.af101802QWmUXJ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Thanks for this video. Also, if you make a foam or plastic shroud for the motor shaft that covers the part from the motor pod up to the waterline, shaped like the leg of an outboard motor, or symmetrical wing profile, it will stop it sucking air into the prop and making that loud churning sound.
Thank you K1 K2! I’ve been meaning to get back to you on your comment about this idea on the other video I did when I tested it out for the first time. I can’t wait to build something as it’s still making that noise even after I lowered it so I think your def right about how to fix. Almost like an airplane wing right? I want the water to sort of wrap around the shaft as it’s gurgling the water behind the shaft right now, almost like a Boulder in a stream
@@PeterRanieriII Oh did I comment already about this?? Ha. I've been spamming it about the place as I see it come up a bit on these setups. It was an issue for me on my canoe until I did this. Yep just like a normal outboard leg profile or a wing shape. I used some clear flat polycarbonate sheet folded around the shaft then glued in place. It forms the wing shape by itself.
@@oldman1944 Would you consider posting a couple pics and more detail about how you made and how you fastened it? This sounds like exactly what I need. I believe that "gurgling" is cavitation or ventilation (many people call it cavitation but it is actually ventilation).
@@jimwoodmansee It's ventilation as I understand it. I think cavitation occurs at high prop speed when the pressure on one side drops so low that the water boils. I'll take some pics later of the mods on mine.
@@jimwoodmansee YT won't let me post a full imgur link, It keeps deleting it. See if you can work it out from this - p4MDmYl The large one has been tested a few times and works well, it just needs to be covered. It's made from thin polycarbonate sheet, glued with superglue and caulking. The small one hasn't been tested yet. It's harder to get a good profile as the shaft is closer to the prop. It's just thin clear plastic from some packaging covered with sign vinyl. It might work better to be a fat inverted L shape, with the profile extending further back above the prop, filled with foam.
I have a couple of questions, do you need to register the kayak if there motor is electric? and could the water snake push a Hobie Outback with a 220 pound fisherman?
You do have to register the kayak. I think once you motorize any kind of vessel (regardless of electric or gas powered) its required. That's NY state of course. It should be able to power you. This little motor is powerful, I was very surprised, especially because its really not that heavy. Have you seen Dan's channel "Fishin Accomplished" recently? He's actually successfully installed it on an outback, he's prob not carrying as much weight but with a lithium battery I think it would work. Every pound counts though and I have seen a difference in speed with the motor by just adding/removing about 20lbs of weight.
This registration for an electric motor is harder than I thought, they want me to bring the information on the motor (water-snake) and even though I have the MSO number they want a bill of sale and I'll have to pay taxes on the kayak? This is insane!
Hey Peter, which 60AH lithium battery do you think you'll end up buying? So many choices on Amazon from about $200 - $500 range. Scary thing about batteries is that once they get past the warranty is when they fail and you're buying again. Like to see u out there so early. I'm starting to check my gear and getting ready for the April Tog in the Sound and May Hudson stripers. If gas prices weren't so high I may run to Raritan bay in April too.
There’s so many choices but from the research I’ve done it seems a lot of those cheaper ones are basically from the same wholesalers in China. Another viewer told me to check out dhgate.com which I did and they have super cheap batteries. You get what you pay for but I think I will get a cheap one instead of say a Dakota lithium which is like 400$ for 54ah, maybe it’s a better warranty but I’m not looking to have this battery for super long, after all it’s on a floating piece of plastic and things happen so I’ll prob take the risk and go cheap. Check this link out: 200$ for a 90ah: www.dhgate.com/product/liitokala-12v-90ah-lifepo4-battery-pack-12/749048156.html?d1_page_num=1&dspm=wapen.sp.list.1.ZNWHDExsRTN3kTNuGUyG&resource_id=749048156&scm_id=search.LIST...1T|2|0|unrerank|7_3|newes.#s1-1-1;searl|0657363447:1 Thanks, yea was so happy to start getting out there, April I’ll start looking for tog, stripers and maybe winter flounder too. Gas prices are gunna be rough this summer, even more reason to be on the yak with trolling motor rather than a boat :)
@@PeterRanieriII Wow, 90AH at that price. I hope it lasts a while. I'm just starting to think about adding trolling motor to my Old Town Sportsman 120PDL. I'm thinking of going thru the hull at PDL opening. Not sure yet
@@RobertSmith-dj3qw crazy cheap right?! theres a video on YT of a guy that takes it apart and tests it and for what we're doing with it, I think its still worth it. Is the old town sportsman 120pdl able to accept the minn kota trolling motor with spot lock like their autopilot version? If you can just buy that autopilot motor and plop it in, thats probably what I would do. I def think down the road if I were to upgrade my motor, I would try and figure out how to get spot lock
@@PeterRanieriII The Minnkota w/spot lock that comes on their autopilot yak is a completely different configuration than the opening for PDL drive so it will not fit. I'm surprised that no one has come out with a retrofit kit to add a trolling motor to the opening. I thought Navarre would've by now. Great yak but I'll have to retrofit a TM into it. Was looking at yours coming out the side but I've seen people cut down the shaft and go thru the hull. Either way I go it will be a nice project for days too windy to be out there.
@@RobertSmith-dj3qw Ah, I see, thats too bad. I'm surprised as well. I'm also surprised there isn't more mods where you can add gps spot lock to an existing trolling motor, guess its more compicated than it seems. So regarding the trolling motor in the drive opening, I was very close to doing it that way on mine but I had a friend that did a side mount and has relative success so I went off his idea and just adjusted a few things. I like having the motor running while at the same time having my pedals in the drive. Maybe its just psycological but I'm much more comfortable having the ability to just start manually pedaling instead of being required to change out the motor for the pedals. Also, I found you get a tad more speed when you pedal and motor which I enjoy a lot because I still enjoy pedaling quite a bit actually, it's part of the whole experience of being on the kayak to me, I just don't like doing it against wind and current for a long time.
Just gotta tighten that bracket a bit but yeah, thanks! Oh I'm nuts its true, I really shouldve waited a little longer for a better day, that dry suit keeps you so warm but my hands were done for bc of holding the gopro. Hey what speed to you usually use for your bixpy? Do you blast it when cruising out to your spots or do you keep it in the 50-75% throttle area? I'm curious bc if I do a PWM, I wonder if I'd use the variable speeds
from the research I've done, going over 25lb - 30lb thrust wastes more energy than its worth. There is a plateau effect to your speed vs. power due to a kayaks' hull design. You will require larger and larger amounts of thrust for a smaller and smaller gain in top speed.
I think the company recommends 25A circuit breaker but I used a 30A. Probably 20A is too low since it would be close to drawing that much if you had a lot of gear on the kayak and were going against the current. Here's the link to the one i installed on this battery: amzn.to/3VSwX1d
You’re drawing a lot less amps than my T18 so I too believe you have to mount the motor way deeper to get the full power from the motor, and probably better efficiency. I’m drawing 19.5amps on high and I think you said you have the T24 which is a bigger motor again.
That makes sense. Yeah this is the T24 (24lb thrust) so probably your right, the air pocket is preventing it from pushing more water. I'm going to try and get it lower in the water and see what happens. 19.5amps seems high for the 18lb motor, I thought it's marketed to draw 15 on high. It's like our motors are reversed, lol
I would say if your amps are low and your speed is relatively good then you have good efficiency. If you lowered your motor then drew a hole load more amps for little speed gain then that is NOT efficient. I think you demonstrated your set up well..👍👍 19.5 amps on my little 20lb motor I have would be very high as it only uses around 16 amps and its 2lb stronger than a T18!
haha it does ruin the concept of kayaking a bit, I will agree, especially the noise, it's not as peaceful having the motor sound. It's easy to take out though if I'm just staying close, and if I want to go further on a trip it helps so much. I think if you aren't going long distances on your outings it's not necessary but I just love to explore on this thing and it really helps with that. Thanks for the comment man!
@@PeterRanieriII max distances ive done till now are like 7-8kms. Dont know if its a lot or not but im feeling fine after :) so i think ill pass for now
@@60watergr Your young and thats not too far, its good exercise! I did about a 12km trek and thats when I felt slight soreness in my knees and thats when I started looking at the motors so prob if you don't feel anything, just keep doin what your doin and getting those huge groupers!
I was thinking the same thing that you should try to add a PWM. I usually don’t blast out. If I launch from Goldstar in Huntington Harbor I’m usually between 2-3 on the remote, around 2.5 mph non pedal assisted since it’s usually pretty calm in the mooring fields. Once I get around Wincoma Pt there usually is current so I’ll ramp up to around 50% if I’m heading a few miles north. If I’m trolling I’m usually at 2 setting and that will generally put me around 2+ mph. If I launch on the CSH side more often than not there is current so I’m running 40-50% heading north into the sound, less if I head south. Once I ran about 60+% heading towards Centre Island against the current and wind. Was doing around 3 mph. I think the snake with a prop probably performs better in snotty conditions than the Bixpy with the smaller jet like system. Bixpy good for speed in calm conditions, not so much in rougher water. But the trade off is the lower motor and battery weight and placement on the stern. The Bixpy allows for much easier weight distribution on the Outback. BTW planning another short FL trip third week of the month. When I return I’ll probably pull the wrap off the big boat.
@@LI-FLKayakFisherman Good to know, so you definitely utilize the different speeds. I think your right about the bixpy excelling in calmer conditions, but its true weight distribution is very important and thats a downside to this heavy battery as it matters where you put it. Awesome! hope you get better weather down there this time...
sure thing, yea 38-39F so still pretty cold, I have no idea what those seagulls were doing, maybe just getting clams or whatever bc of the extra low tide
Pete! Hah idk about genius, just obsessed when I get a project in my head. Always glad to hear from you, hope we can get out on the water and fish soon!
@@PeterRanieriII haha I know all about that. I may try to copy you and add a motor on my kayak. We’ll see how the season goes. If my hip can’t take the peddling I’m gonna have to do what you did. Yeah man the weathers been great recently, I feel like I’m missing fish! I’m definitely hitting the Hudson once Striper season opens up there. You’re welcome to join but I know that’s a hike for you. Keep it up Pete! I’m looking forward to seeing what’s next.
@@ProphecyFishing for sure man, you don’t want to aggravate an injury like that. That’s right I remember I’ve seen you go up the Hudson in past videos, it’s a bit tough for me to get up that far these days but ya never know
some may disagree with me but I've come to the conclusion that both are not worth the money. By the time you get one that is both waterproof and wont overheat, you've spent more that the motor is worth, and I haven't seen anyone post amp draw testing to show a reduction of any significant magnitude
@@PeterRanieriII I like to troll and would like to be able to dial in a speed that is lower than the low speed on the T24. I want to install the Hobbywing 880 brushed ESC inside the head of the T24 and a rotary speed dial outside the top of the head to replace the two speed switch. FPV-Power has made their own version using the T24 but adding some more windings on the motor to make it a 28 and built in a PWM in the head and a rotary speed dial on the top of the head.
I just added a Bioenno 60ah lithium battery and a Renogy RBM500 battery meter to a group 24 battery box for my Hobie Lynx. I like the Renogy because it also shows the estimated remaining capacity in amp hours and in %. I like K1 K2!'s post about making a shroud for the shaft to minimize the churning sound (cavitation/ventilation). I hope he posts a video and more detail about how he did it. PS: is there a way to post a pic in these Comments? On Facebook I just drag it into it but I don't know how to share a pic here on TH-cam.
Hey James, that does sound nice to have the battery % and yea K1 K2 is exactly right about the shroud for the shaft, I haven't done a good job of it yet but i quickly taped some thin foam around the shaft near the waterline right before my last trip out and noticed a difference. When I figure out a better more permanent way like they suggested with the formed plastic I'll try and post a video on it. Yea YT is kinda strict with posting links but I have been successful posting links from imgur before, try this: imgur.com/upload
@@jimwoodmansee I'm looking at a Watersnake 18lb and 24lb for my Lynx along with the Eco-Worth LiPo (20AH or 30AH) battery. I'm leaning towards the 18lb since I primarily lake and reservoir fish and don't have to deal with currents, tides or long distances. Can you advise on what you've learned, your recommendations including 1) battery meter, 2) the actual need/value of a PWM controller and 3) an auto-reset fuse (should i ever venture into salt water). Thanks.
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Thank you. Good highlight of the stats (Amp draw, speed).
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for making this video! my battery drained faster then expected, now I know why, the amp draw is a little higher then advertised. I believe it’s listed as 5ah on low and 15 on high. I may need to get a second battery.
Glad to hear it was useful information for you! Yea it for sure drains more the heavier the kayak is as well. I noticed when I had all my fishing gear on it that I was drawing about 9 amps on low and around 19 on high!
I am considering purchasing this motor. I see you have had this for a couple of years. What is your thoughts on this motor?
@@bruceheller9796 I love it. Even now with the ability to put the xi3 in bow or stern I’m taking this side mounted motor prob 75% of the time I go out
@@PeterRanieriII Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the videos! Just got my Watersnake 24 today. What battery are you using? I want to go lithium but Watersnake is strongly opposed to them.
I was using a 35ah lead acid for this testing but I did upgrade to a lithium iron phosphate and haven’t had any issues so far. Maybe watersnake just hasn’t tested them much on lithiums so they’re hesitant to say it’s ok, not sure. Here’s the link to battery I’m using now: m.aliexpress.com/item/3256803618604245.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.af101802QWmUXJ&gatewayAdapt=Pc2Msite
Awesome video so a 100 ah battery at full speed would last ruffly 5.8hrs? Thats pretty good considering im really only going to be using it half the time going back to start the drift over
@@waterboy5164 that’s correct 👍 if you weigh down the kayak with a bunch of gear you may draw a little more amps but you still would easily get 5hrs on high. That’s what I’m saying man, this little motor rocks!
@@PeterRanieriII awesome thanks I bought 2 of those motors one for me and brother. What size breaker do I use 30? I also need to order batteries.
Do you have any links to help the channel out?
@Waterboy5164 awesome man, they are hard to get right now. Was actually looking to get another as a backup. I would use a 30amp breaker: amzn.to/3LNmmly watersnake recommends 25amp but those could be tough to find. for the 100ah battery just buy the cheapest one on amazon as they essentially are all sourced from china (even the expensive US based companies like ampedoutdoors, etc. source the cells from china) Heres a link to one I found: amzn.to/3WkBdca you dont have to buy that one but if you buy anything from that linked page it will help me out 👍
Do you have pwm with that or straight to battery
Pwm? Nah straight to battery
@@PeterRanieriII how long or how many hours you get straight to battery
@@TheSargeOnTheWater with the old 35ah lead acid battery I would get about 2 hours on high and 4 hours on low. But now I have an 80ah lithium and I get 4 hours on high and over 8 hours on low.
The battery box is just awesome. Mind sharing a link please for it?
Thanks, it was actually very cheap to build too. Here's a link to the video I show how to make it: th-cam.com/video/Q7ZQ1j4oo2I/w-d-xo.html
I've since been using a LiPO4 battery since but this helped me understand how much AH to get
@@PeterRanieriII Thanks so much. Is that an AGM battery type on the video? Also, will it also work with a LiPO4 battery?
@@plgrv its a lead acid in the video. But yeah it would definitely work with lithium iron phosphate (LiPO4)
What kind/size battery are you using?
for this test i just used a cheap lead acid 35ah which i had lying around. I then purchased an 80ah lithium after doing these tests for the motor and still use that one today: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803618604245.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.af101802QWmUXJ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Excellent video!
Thank you!
Thanks for this video. Also, if you make a foam or plastic shroud for the motor shaft that covers the part from the motor pod up to the waterline, shaped like the leg of an outboard motor, or symmetrical wing profile, it will stop it sucking air into the prop and making that loud churning sound.
Thank you K1 K2! I’ve been meaning to get back to you on your comment about this idea on the other video I did when I tested it out for the first time. I can’t wait to build something as it’s still making that noise even after I lowered it so I think your def right about how to fix. Almost like an airplane wing right? I want the water to sort of wrap around the shaft as it’s gurgling the water behind the shaft right now, almost like a Boulder in a stream
@@PeterRanieriII Oh did I comment already about this?? Ha. I've been spamming it about the place as I see it come up a bit on these setups. It was an issue for me on my canoe until I did this. Yep just like a normal outboard leg profile or a wing shape. I used some clear flat polycarbonate sheet folded around the shaft then glued in place. It forms the wing shape by itself.
@@oldman1944 Would you consider posting a couple pics and more detail about how you made and how you fastened it? This sounds like exactly what I need. I believe that "gurgling" is cavitation or ventilation (many people call it cavitation but it is actually ventilation).
@@jimwoodmansee It's ventilation as I understand it. I think cavitation occurs at high prop speed when the pressure on one side drops so low that the water boils. I'll take some pics later of the mods on mine.
@@jimwoodmansee YT won't let me post a full imgur link, It keeps deleting it. See if you can work it out from this - p4MDmYl
The large one has been tested a few times and works well, it just needs to be covered. It's made from thin polycarbonate sheet, glued with superglue and caulking. The small one hasn't been tested yet. It's harder to get a good profile as the shaft is closer to the prop. It's just thin clear plastic from some packaging covered with sign vinyl. It might work better to be a fat inverted L shape, with the profile extending further back above the prop, filled with foam.
I have a couple of questions, do you need to register the kayak if there motor is electric? and could the water snake push a Hobie Outback with a 220 pound fisherman?
You do have to register the kayak. I think once you motorize any kind of vessel (regardless of electric or gas powered) its required. That's NY state of course. It should be able to power you. This little motor is powerful, I was very surprised, especially because its really not that heavy. Have you seen Dan's channel "Fishin Accomplished" recently? He's actually successfully installed it on an outback, he's prob not carrying as much weight but with a lithium battery I think it would work. Every pound counts though and I have seen a difference in speed with the motor by just adding/removing about 20lbs of weight.
@@PeterRanieriII Thanks Peter!
This registration for an electric motor is harder than I thought, they want me to bring the information on the motor (water-snake) and even though I have the MSO number they want a bill of sale and I'll have to pay taxes on the kayak? This is insane!
Hey Peter, which 60AH lithium battery do you think you'll end up buying? So many choices on Amazon from about $200 - $500 range. Scary thing about batteries is that once they get past the warranty is when they fail and you're buying again.
Like to see u out there so early. I'm starting to check my gear and getting ready for the April Tog in the Sound and May Hudson stripers. If gas prices weren't so high I may run to Raritan bay in April too.
There’s so many choices but from the research I’ve done it seems a lot of those cheaper ones are basically from the same wholesalers in China. Another viewer told me to check out dhgate.com which I did and they have super cheap batteries. You get what you pay for but I think I will get a cheap one instead of say a Dakota lithium which is like 400$ for 54ah, maybe it’s a better warranty but I’m not looking to have this battery for super long, after all it’s on a floating piece of plastic and things happen so I’ll prob take the risk and go cheap. Check this link out: 200$ for a 90ah: www.dhgate.com/product/liitokala-12v-90ah-lifepo4-battery-pack-12/749048156.html?d1_page_num=1&dspm=wapen.sp.list.1.ZNWHDExsRTN3kTNuGUyG&resource_id=749048156&scm_id=search.LIST...1T|2|0|unrerank|7_3|newes.#s1-1-1;searl|0657363447:1
Thanks, yea was so happy to start getting out there, April I’ll start looking for tog, stripers and maybe winter flounder too. Gas prices are gunna be rough this summer, even more reason to be on the yak with trolling motor rather than a boat :)
@@PeterRanieriII Wow, 90AH at that price. I hope it lasts a while. I'm just starting to think about adding trolling motor to my Old Town Sportsman 120PDL. I'm thinking of going thru the hull at PDL opening. Not sure yet
@@RobertSmith-dj3qw crazy cheap right?! theres a video on YT of a guy that takes it apart and tests it and for what we're doing with it, I think its still worth it. Is the old town sportsman 120pdl able to accept the minn kota trolling motor with spot lock like their autopilot version? If you can just buy that autopilot motor and plop it in, thats probably what I would do. I def think down the road if I were to upgrade my motor, I would try and figure out how to get spot lock
@@PeterRanieriII The Minnkota w/spot lock that comes on their autopilot yak is a completely different configuration than the opening for PDL drive so it will not fit. I'm surprised that no one has come out with a retrofit kit to add a trolling motor to the opening. I thought Navarre would've by now. Great yak but I'll have to retrofit a TM into it. Was looking at yours coming out the side but I've seen people cut down the shaft and go thru the hull. Either way I go it will be a nice project for days too windy to be out there.
@@RobertSmith-dj3qw Ah, I see, thats too bad. I'm surprised as well. I'm also surprised there isn't more mods where you can add gps spot lock to an existing trolling motor, guess its more compicated than it seems. So regarding the trolling motor in the drive opening, I was very close to doing it that way on mine but I had a friend that did a side mount and has relative success so I went off his idea and just adjusted a few things. I like having the motor running while at the same time having my pedals in the drive. Maybe its just psycological but I'm much more comfortable having the ability to just start manually pedaling instead of being required to change out the motor for the pedals. Also, I found you get a tad more speed when you pedal and motor which I enjoy a lot because I still enjoy pedaling quite a bit actually, it's part of the whole experience of being on the kayak to me, I just don't like doing it against wind and current for a long time.
It works great! I know how anxious you were to test the meter. But 38 degree water temp, you are brave. 😬
Just gotta tighten that bracket a bit but yeah, thanks! Oh I'm nuts its true, I really shouldve waited a little longer for a better day, that dry suit keeps you so warm but my hands were done for bc of holding the gopro. Hey what speed to you usually use for your bixpy? Do you blast it when cruising out to your spots or do you keep it in the 50-75% throttle area? I'm curious bc if I do a PWM, I wonder if I'd use the variable speeds
Im new to inshore kayak trying to motorize it, will i beable to climp up current with a 30lb thrust electric motor?
from the research I've done, going over 25lb - 30lb thrust wastes more energy than its worth. There is a plateau effect to your speed vs. power due to a kayaks' hull design. You will require larger and larger amounts of thrust for a smaller and smaller gain in top speed.
What sort of fuse or breaker should I use when wiring a set up like this
I think the company recommends 25A circuit breaker but I used a 30A. Probably 20A is too low since it would be close to drawing that much if you had a lot of gear on the kayak and were going against the current. Here's the link to the one i installed on this battery: amzn.to/3VSwX1d
Thanks
Hello, could you show how you did the support for the motor?
Hey Carlos, check out this video I did making the rod holder mount: th-cam.com/video/waKLP8u0AAk/w-d-xo.html
You’re drawing a lot less amps than my T18 so I too believe you have to mount the motor way deeper to get the full power from the motor, and probably better efficiency. I’m drawing 19.5amps on high and I think you said you have the T24 which is a bigger motor again.
That makes sense. Yeah this is the T24 (24lb thrust) so probably your right, the air pocket is preventing it from pushing more water. I'm going to try and get it lower in the water and see what happens. 19.5amps seems high for the 18lb motor, I thought it's marketed to draw 15 on high. It's like our motors are reversed, lol
I would say if your amps are low and your speed is relatively good then you have good efficiency. If you lowered your motor then drew a hole load more amps for little speed gain then that is NOT efficient. I think you demonstrated your set up well..👍👍
19.5 amps on my little 20lb motor I have would be very high as it only uses around 16 amps and its 2lb stronger than a T18!
Hello may I ask you what amps your T18 draws under load at low and high also without load?
nice testing there Peter! i was thinking to buy a motor but not sure... it destroys the concept of kayaking , its more like a lil boat.
haha it does ruin the concept of kayaking a bit, I will agree, especially the noise, it's not as peaceful having the motor sound. It's easy to take out though if I'm just staying close, and if I want to go further on a trip it helps so much. I think if you aren't going long distances on your outings it's not necessary but I just love to explore on this thing and it really helps with that. Thanks for the comment man!
@@PeterRanieriII max distances ive done till now are like 7-8kms. Dont know if its a lot or not but im feeling fine after :) so i think ill pass for now
@@60watergr Your young and thats not too far, its good exercise! I did about a 12km trek and thats when I felt slight soreness in my knees and thats when I started looking at the motors so prob if you don't feel anything, just keep doin what your doin and getting those huge groupers!
I was thinking the same thing that you should try to add a PWM. I usually don’t blast out. If I launch from Goldstar in Huntington Harbor I’m usually between 2-3 on the remote, around 2.5 mph non pedal assisted since it’s usually pretty calm in the mooring fields. Once I get around Wincoma Pt there usually is current so I’ll ramp up to around 50% if I’m heading a few miles north. If I’m trolling I’m usually at 2 setting and that will generally put me around 2+ mph. If I launch on the CSH side more often than not there is current so I’m running 40-50% heading north into the sound, less if I head south. Once I ran about 60+% heading towards Centre Island against the current and wind. Was doing around 3 mph. I think the snake with a prop probably performs better in snotty conditions than the Bixpy with the smaller jet like system. Bixpy good for speed in calm conditions, not so much in rougher water. But the trade off is the lower motor and battery weight and placement on the stern. The Bixpy allows for much easier weight distribution on the Outback. BTW planning another short FL trip third week of the month. When I return I’ll probably pull the wrap off the big boat.
@@LI-FLKayakFisherman Good to know, so you definitely utilize the different speeds. I think your right about the bixpy excelling in calmer conditions, but its true weight distribution is very important and thats a downside to this heavy battery as it matters where you put it. Awesome! hope you get better weather down there this time...
I’m jonsing for squid thanks for reporting water temp
sure thing, yea 38-39F so still pretty cold, I have no idea what those seagulls were doing, maybe just getting clams or whatever bc of the extra low tide
Genius
Pete! Hah idk about genius, just obsessed when I get a project in my head. Always glad to hear from you, hope we can get out on the water and fish soon!
@@PeterRanieriII haha I know all about that. I may try to copy you and add a motor on my kayak. We’ll see how the season goes. If my hip can’t take the peddling I’m gonna have to do what you did. Yeah man the weathers been great recently, I feel like I’m missing fish! I’m definitely hitting the Hudson once Striper season opens up there. You’re welcome to join but I know that’s a hike for you. Keep it up Pete! I’m looking forward to seeing what’s next.
@@ProphecyFishing for sure man, you don’t want to aggravate an injury like that. That’s right I remember I’ve seen you go up the Hudson in past videos, it’s a bit tough for me to get up that far these days but ya never know
Where is this? Lake? Bay? River?
It’s in a bay, near a choke point though so the current can get pretty strong
Does anyone use an ESC instead of a PWM with their Watersnake?
some may disagree with me but I've come to the conclusion that both are not worth the money. By the time you get one that is both waterproof and wont overheat, you've spent more that the motor is worth, and I haven't seen anyone post amp draw testing to show a reduction of any significant magnitude
@@PeterRanieriII I like to troll and would like to be able to dial in a speed that is lower than the low speed on the T24. I want to install the Hobbywing 880 brushed ESC inside the head of the T24 and a rotary speed dial outside the top of the head to replace the two speed switch. FPV-Power has made their own version using the T24 but adding some more windings on the motor to make it a 28 and built in a PWM in the head and a rotary speed dial on the top of the head.
Hitting it early eh. 👍🏼
lol I needed some fresh salty air in the lungs
I just added a Bioenno 60ah lithium battery and a Renogy RBM500 battery meter to a group 24 battery box for my Hobie Lynx. I like the Renogy because it also shows the estimated remaining capacity in amp hours and in %. I like K1 K2!'s post about making a shroud for the shaft to minimize the churning sound (cavitation/ventilation). I hope he posts a video and more detail about how he did it. PS: is there a way to post a pic in these Comments? On Facebook I just drag it into it but I don't know how to share a pic here on TH-cam.
Forgot to mention I have the Watersnake 24# on my Hobie Lynx.
Hey James, that does sound nice to have the battery % and yea K1 K2 is exactly right about the shroud for the shaft, I haven't done a good job of it yet but i quickly taped some thin foam around the shaft near the waterline right before my last trip out and noticed a difference. When I figure out a better more permanent way like they suggested with the formed plastic I'll try and post a video on it. Yea YT is kinda strict with posting links but I have been successful posting links from imgur before, try this: imgur.com/upload
I googled "how to add image to youtube comment, and then followed the steps in the resulting video.
@@jimwoodmansee that’s a nice battery monitor! It’s a little pricey but I would totally use that one on my next battery build, thanks for sharing
@@jimwoodmansee I'm looking at a Watersnake 18lb and 24lb for my Lynx along with the Eco-Worth LiPo (20AH or 30AH) battery. I'm leaning towards the 18lb since I primarily lake and reservoir fish and don't have to deal with currents, tides or long distances. Can you advise on what you've learned, your recommendations including 1) battery meter, 2) the actual need/value of a PWM controller and 3) an auto-reset fuse (should i ever venture into salt water). Thanks.
Just a little deeper & stop the cavitation
gotcha, I've been meaning to fix that, but it's not easy as I have no more shaft left so gotta melt my rod holder PVC mount a little more.
I tried my T24 on the side of my Oldtown topwater 120 and it was a bust. Bow mount was the way to go.
good to know and thanks for sharing, maybe the hull shape is just conducive for the side mount