Top 10 Budget-Friendly Diesel Models For Your Lionel Layout
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.พ. 2023
- Episode 133: Whether you are brand new to the hobby or are just looking to expand your current toy train empire, I present to you my list of the best budget diesel locomotives
**As an Amazon Affiliate and member of the eBay Partner Program, I may receive commissions on qualifying sales generated from the links on this channel.***
The first model on my list is the K-Line MP15 ebay.us/V0J3eS This model was made from the mid-1980s through the early 2000s and came in a variety of versions. The models are scale-sized, feature twin can motors, a headlight, operating couplers at each end, and 3-position reversing. Some versions were equipped with horns. The MP15 came both in starter sets and as a separate sale item. • My $37 K-Line MP-15 - ...
Staying with K-Line, the next model on my list is the K-Line ALCO S-2 switcher ebay.us/gEt9AU. Based on Marx tooling from the 1950s, K-Line upgraded this neat model with added details, improved trucks, and twin can motors, which make this little switcher a great puller for its size. The S-2 was made to be compatible with Marx 3/16” scale, or roughly 1/64 scale cars, so it is undersized for O scale. However, it looks great with undersize O27 cars like Lionel’s Scout-inspired boxcars, or K-Line’s updated Marx cars that were found in many starter sets.
Next, we have the Lionel GP38, sometimes labeled a GP38-2 ebay.us/lUCP1x. In reality, the shell models neither, as it is actually based on a less common but similar-looking GP39-2. Introduced in 1991, the GP38 features twin-can motors, scale dimensions, a headlight, and two operating couplers, and most versions have horns. Contemporary versions with Lionel’s LionChief and other added electronics are priced higher. The GP38 has been a common element of middle and upper-end starter sets since the 1990s. Since versions of the locomotive are still in production, parts are readily available. • Lionel 6-28827 Chessie...
Similar in price and features to the GP38 is the Lionel ALCO RS-3 ebay.us/lmVEmr. This model, introduced in 1998 features scale dimensions and generally features twin can motors, a headlight, and operating couplers at each end. Recent production LionChief versions are priced higher. There were also some stripped-down versions of the locomotive produced, such as for the Lionel Construction Set.
Next on my list is the Lionel General Electric U36B ebay.us/aADHHr. When first issued in 1974, these semi-scale diesels featured a single Pullmor-style motor on a sheet metal frame with 2 operating couplers and 3-position reverse. Reissues in the 1990s and later feature twin-can motors similar to the RS3 and improved electronics. These models are priced above our target range. • Lionel MPC Takes A Cha...
And speaking of Geeps, next we have the Lionel GP7/GP9/GP20 line of locomotives ebay.us/jO4vac. All of these are based on the GP7 and have similar operating features, so I am putting these all together in the same category. • Lionel's GP7 - The Mod...
This brings us to a model with a large variety of versions and features, the Lionel NW2 switcher ebay.us/ZhgfR7. When introduced in 1949, the NW2 was a top-shelf model, featuring scale dimensions, a single Pullmor motor, 2 operating couplers, Magnatraction, 3-position reverse, and a die-cast frame. These models have excellent detail and are superior runners.
Speaking of model variations, perhaps no model has undergone more extreme changes than the Lionel ALCO FA ebay.us/ki3QOb. When introduced in 1950, the FA was a premium, full-featured model. By 1965, many FAs were offered without even a reverse mechanism!
Contrasting with Lionel’s FA is the K-Line ALCO FA ebay.us/5irZOq. While many believe these are knock-offs of the Lionel versions, K-Line’s are actually based on original Kusan tooling and show significant differences in the body castings. • K-Line Twin ALCO FA's ...
Last, and perhaps, least, on the list is the Lionel Postwar 44 Ton switcher ebay.us/Gh7CVL. This model is EXTREMELY oversize for O scale and is essentially a stripped-down Geep locomotive with a different frame. Most versions feature 3-position reverse, a headlight, and Magnatraction, but some models have non-operating couplers.
Toy Train Tips And Tricks is a channel devoted to the operation, repair, history, and collecting of classic 3-rail O and O27 gauge trains made by Lionel, Marx, K-Line, Menards, and other manufacturers.
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I actually got a LionChief RS-3 New Haven Road named for 75.00 at a hobby shop blow out!
Excellent deal!!
Agree with you 100 percent! I also push MPC, postwar and other affordable models to those getting started. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
My favorite color is orange. I love the Union Pacific Alco 202 in solid Orange. I found a set of the Milwaukee special cars and I painted them solid Orange can match the locomotive. I bought one brand-new out-of-the-box for $100. It was so cool to get a brand new one.
Mike, you put A LOT of time and effort into research and filming, editing, and so on. Most don't realize what goes into making even a brief video. Just want to say thanks for all you do for our hobby!
Thanks for the compliments. You're correct that you don't realize how involved it is until you do it! My first 40-50 videos were pretty awful! Maybe someday I can make this my full-time endeavor and I could crank out more of these.
Fellow budget engineer here. This is a great post and gives me some options to consider. I have the K-line mp15 in green NYC livery .
Happy to help and thanks for watching!
I think you're definitely right when it comes to potential hobbies Then they see the price tag and walk away When they could take a turn back in time And buy some older models or some models today without all the crazy features
I can definitely vouch for the cheaper alcos. They're incredibly simple to work on, reliable and fun to customize. Great video to show o scale trains don't have to be so expensive.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the good info. I have a K-Line FA in NYC and can fully agree it's a great bargain runner! My grandkids have enjoyed it for years.
Love it!
Thank you for doing the research and putting this video together. The only diesel I have now is a GP-38 CP Rail but I'd love to add Chessie System and Burlington Northern. And I'm limited to my 31" radius Fast Track. It's only a Christmas display but I like to switch it up every year. These last few years I've had the pleasure of running vintage post war (and a pre war) Lionel steam engines that I inherited after my dad passed away.
FYI All of the diesels in the video will operate on O27 and wider curves.
Great tips, it's always nice to know which trains are budget friendly!!! Thanks 😀
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks your welcome!
OK Mike. You’ve officially called me cheap. I have all but the U36 and 44 toner. Of these, I like my K-Lines the most.
:-) I spell "cheap" f-r-u-g-a-l!
I recently bought on E--bay, a sweet O gage Marx Santa Fa #21, made from 1950--54. It`s large, heavy, and powerful, with a double reduction motor. I'm a follower of Benz Trainz, and have learned how to pinch pennies. Oh yes, I failed to mention that I picked it up for a total of $34.00 price and shipping, biding against eight others.
Marx made many gems. I avoided them for this video because of incompatible couplers and often the drives are incompatible with Lionel turnouts and crossovers. There is a bit of a learning curve to combining Marx and Lionel on the same layout. Benz Trains is an excellent channel, and somewhat inspired me to begin mine.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I replaced my lionel turnouts and crossovers with Marx .
My first Lionel engine was a set headed by a Texas Special 1055. I was 5 and playing with it alone when it derailed and the short caused the transformer to set the set box on fire. My father's cardboard suitcase which he immigrated from Ireland with 10 years before held those trains for the next 40 years. The next year my father took me to Woolworth's where we bought an HO transformer. Years later I was at a train show where the set was available in the box. They didn't take credit cards and I didn't have cash but Joe Gryzboski was selling at the show and fronted me the money. A few tears later Angela Trotta Thomas painted a family portrait featuring that 1055.. If I see a video featuring "my" Texas Special I will watch it. I know it's not worth much but its priceless to me.
Great story. Thanks for sharing!
I have a couple of these... they run just fine!
:-)
Williams Reproductions are generally affordable and nigh indestructible as well. I have a few for my layout.
At the time of the video, Williams diesels were generally selling well above the price range in the video criteria - closer to $200 in most cases.
@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I see. And I believe you are correct. Recently though it seems they have been dropping back to more reasonable prices, probably due to the increased accessibility of budget Lionchief offerings. But I run mostly conventional so Williams fills the bill. It seems price is more dictated by availability of roadnames than anything else, at least in my encounters.
Thanks Mike, this was very informative.
Thanks for watching!
When I was 6 or 7 back in late 80s my dad bought me a kline conrail mp15 with matching caboose for my layout. It was my favorite loco. Definitely a great value and it was a puller
I also had Lionel’s Santa Fe rs3 but we some reason I hated it compared to the mp15
Fun!
The MP15 was likely a better puller.
Love the 1055 Texas Special! Found one when I was kid in the 70s at a garage sale! Love the barn red color and it says Texas on the side! Will get one again.
Great!
Very informative and enjoyable. I have many of the units you commented upon and am putting together my grandsons first set using several. It’s a great way to get started. Thanks.
Great! Have a wonderful time "training" together!
What great video!
How to have fun, collect and enjoy on a budget.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I love my C&O 624, runs great and has a lot of pulling power with Magne-Traction. I picked it up on the Bay for $85.
Nice! I have the Williams version.
While I do have about 6 of the mid price range locomotives from Lionel, MTH, Williams, K-Line and have been model railroading since 1955 when I received my first train set -- the Lionel 1615 0-4-0 Switcher with rolling stock and a 40 watt transformer, I now have 2 ZW-R's and a larger layout ,but only last week I purchased a fully functioning Marx 666 with smoke unit for $ 45 on ebay that came with its original tender and both look as if they were used very little. So bargains can be found in this Hobby in O Gauge as long as you can be willing to bypass DCC, etc. and other such nice amenities that push a price point up to over $1800 for a new Lionel or MTH locomotive from the 2023 catalogs.
Those prices in the 2023 catalog are the reason I don’t even look at Lionel catalogs. Obviously any thing worth owning is priced for collectors. The almost reasonable priced stuff is junk. That’s why we enjoy video productions such as toy trains & tips. It exposes the work around to inflated costs. Author does a good job, thank you again.
Great information 👍
Thank you!
I realize this is an older video, but I'm starting to see MPC era single motor F3s like the Preamble Express in your listed price range. It is a narrow group of single motor F3s from the beginning of the MPC era.
Gonna shout out the Williams scale 44 ton. Brand new, full sound, great pullers, $130 from some retailers
Great deal!
Great and informative presentation. I have several of the mentioned locomotives and they all operate well. One thing on the K-Line S2, coupler parts are getting very hard to find and the couplers are a bit delicate. With the lower pricing, I don't worry about repainting since these are runners and not shelf queens.
Yes, the K-line S2 does derail while climbing trestles do to its stiff trucks. While predecessor, the Marx 1998 has no problems with climbing grades.
Thanks for the information!
These are gorgeous models
Thanks! I like them!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks you welcome
Well you just talked about my all diesel motor power and one wish-list train. (Two FA or PA-1s and two the two K-lines)
New to your channel, this was the first video I watched. So, I have my K Line Kennecott switcher, my can motor 8263 GP 7 (Closer to a GP9), and my Alco 8861&8862 AB. Those are my favorite locomotives. Looks like we were thinking the same thing.
Great! Welcome aboard!
I've always quite liked the classic Lionel 44-tonner, but mainly because I like to think it's one of the similar-looking 80 or 120 tonners!
The locomotive has it's charms! Thanks for watching!
You really hit all the bases! The only thing I could add is check out the local trainshows and look for the older Williams product line of diesels. Many can be found in the $100 to $200 range and being Williams they're darn near bulletproof. Also, check out the dealer ads in O-Gauge centric magazines, many will have older conventional control NOS or "New Old Stock" starter sets on hand and being conventional they're typically very reasonably priced.
I was going to mention reasonably priced steam engines but I'm guessing you're heading there next, so I'll keep my mouth shut! 😉
I considered listing Williams products - and I love them - by when I did my sales research I found that prices have currently creeped above my $150 threshold for most of them. You can occasionally find an older SD45 under $100 - especially with missing handrails. Otherwise, $150-$250 seems to be the current market price.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks You're right, depending on place. Still, keeping below the $150 threshold's a good idea.
Great list. My first engine set had the 1055 Texas Special back in 1960. I still have it although my second set was American Flyer and I stayed with S Scale until today. Age 66. Great video and thanks for sharing! @Cbtrainnut
We'll forgive the switch to two rail! :-) Actually, we love them all!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks my wife has a 3 rail Halloween layout. We are rebuilding it right now. I think I’ll do a video today! Thanks for the inspiration!
Very informative video. I have most of the ones you mentioned except for the S-2 and the 44 tonner. Something you did not mention was that a lot of these engines can be run in pairs with the e-units locked in one direction. That gives more pulling power albeit without the ability to reverse direction. I run a lot of my MPC diesels that way. Obviously, the engines run like that should be similar mechanically i.e. all pullmor motors or all can motors.
Yes. I made a video on this topic. th-cam.com/video/l1TLtrYLkw0/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching!
Hi Mike…first time subscriber…excellent video…thought you could mention some Williams engines…I’ve got 6 and all they do is run…got most of them under $150…thx for video
I considered adding Williams to the video, but when I checked recent eBay sales most came in between $150 and $225.
My two favorite "budget" models are the Alco fa's with two axle magna -traction, Like 218's and a personal favorite New Haven 232's. AND Whiled diesels are the focus, the best bang per buck for me are the old 2018 2022 and similar steamers. :)
Good Choices
I added the Lionel Powermaster. This means I can control Protosound 1 and postwar with an old Lionel Base-1/Cab-1 remote. I added an AC Voltmeter to the layout so I can see what it's doing, otherwise it can be opaque as to how much voltage it's putting out. Basically it works fine. I don't collect these old trains, but I like to keep the ones my father bought working.
Nice!
The construction zone RS-3 was my first Lionel set.
Cool!!
I am a recent fan of the Lionel Alco FA. Worth noting is some budget models were lacking magnetraction or traction tires. Leading to an engine that would only pull a few cars. I love the body design & compressed looks.
This can help. th-cam.com/video/J5utRr6m-oY/w-d-xo.html The Texas Special in the video has no Magna traction and no traction tires except Bullfrog Snot.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Thanks for the link. That's an interesting product!
I did end up with a Lionel 027 Texas Special but it only runs forward even though there's a slot for the lever which I filled up with CA (super glue) and baking soda. Sanded it down, matched the paint and gave new paint over the repair. I did install a 5mm LED headlight with ballast (current limiting) resistor. Of course, there's no E-unit in the engine. I've got 2 Scout engines, one plastic and one die cast and one die cast Atlantic 4-4-2. Then there's my 2026 which needs a new E-unit as the brad failed and the lever came off. I tried super glue but it just won't hold. Cheers from eastern TN
The 1000-series FAs were all unidirectional but still had an e-unit slot.
kline FAs do not always have operating rear coupler, I just got one as part of a set that just has a single piece plastic knuckle on the rear and an operating one in front for some reason. The set does have an uncoupling track, so I don't know if that's part of it or if the loco itself was originally supposed to be part of an ab or aba set or something like that. The set only was supposedto have a single a unit so I don't know waht's going on with that.
That must have been part of an AA or AB set.
If you ask me, an easy budget loco to find would be from Marx. My loco, with its new whistle tender, performs nicely (although the tender is heavier than the loco is and hence I can't back it up without a derailment), pulls modest trains (modest means two cars 'cause of the heavy tender), and runs nicely from my new 1033 transformer.
So you're using a Lionel whistle tender with a Marx steamer? Which Marx steamer?
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Yes, I did run the tender with my steamer. And by your question, if you mean what model, I have no clue at all. It's just my the one that I used to be running with my Type V (once I start getting electric turnouts I will power the turnouts with it) and it doesn't mind the tender, and it looks and sounds beautiful.
Another great vid! I wonder if you or any of your viewers can help. I just did a maintenance and lube on my Lionel 1882 General and the headlight quit working. It runs great and the E unit functions normally. The brushplate tab is making contact with the handrail stantion in the cab and the bulb tests good.Any thoughts? I can't find any vids on line of anyone working on this engine!
I'll see if I can find a schematic...
Is the other side (non-handrail) of the lamp bracket properly grounded? Is the smoke unit functioning (It's part of the same circuit as the headlight)? BTW - nice locomotive and somewhat rare!
Good morning Mike thanks for the input. I know you're not running an on line repair forum! I do suspect the issue is in the headlight bracket. I just need to figure out how to get the front end apart. The 1882 is not equipped with smoke. Have a great toy train day!
Just getting into playing with my father's old Lionel stuff, old steamer engines. Unfortunately, I just can't get into diesel engines, too much like what I work on in real life. Work at a company that builds and installs radio control systems for, among other things, locomotives. So, anything that looks like a SW series or GP series, just gives me the willies, lol. Sticking with steamers for awhile!
Cool job!
Try an Alco RS3!
Just a heads up on the DC can motors. If they are built into the trucks, be sure to keep the gears free of dirt and things like tinsel. Also those gears need oil especially on the center pivot of those gears. You have to avoid sudden stops and starts with them, to avoid over pressure on the gears and the gear pivot points, since those don't have any fly wheels on those motors. otherwise they are good pullers and even better with the two motors models. Also in most cases the dummy engine of these has the same trucks but without the gears and motor, so I assume they could be swapped out for pats if the motorized one has issues.
Center plastic gear spins on a plastic pin that’s part of the housing. Once that pin breaks and they do very easily the drive is junk. Other postings and discussion groups say avoid plastic gearing. There are plenty of engines with metal gearing and housings that will withstand hard use even by kids. The costs are well below the $100 ceiling. As a suggestion the Lionel 2037 all metal construction, was one of the most durable steamers with magna traction, smoker, 3 position E unit, and whistle tender. Size wise it is 027 smaller than most O’s. Lionel made a bazillion of these so finding a very nice one should be no problem. You just can’t kill one of these.
Thanks for the information!
Thanks for the comments!
@@genemanno1533 Actually you can do a fix on these, but the average person will just junk it or give it away. The first one I had that did this, was partly my fault since I had it in an automatic stop and start 5 train system on my train layout of two main lines. What I did was carefully drill out the center just a little into the plastic that was still there, as accurate as possible and the used a machine thread screw and carefully screwed it into the plastic opening I drilled out, so that drill hole must be smaller. Then I stopped using that diesel on the automated layout. I eventually gave that set away. I think it was a K-line rail yard train set. The other ones I have see in poor shape on the web were due to tinsel all wrapped around the gears, just chewed them all up. So yes the metal gears are often the best, even better using the magna traction. However never ever put steel wool near them or any other metal shavings, it will ruin the gears. The above diesel fix I did when I was around 26 years old and I'm now 60. Found out about the magna traction error when I was around 9 the hard way back around 1972, did not have the money or the place to get that fixed then. I fixed a MPC steam engine problem with a screw on the second gear, cluster gear, shaft issue as well, and a erector piece to hold the armature gear end in place as well, when I was around 11 years old.
To me the plastic gears are not the big problem but the plastic pivot points and the lack of a fly wheel on those high speed DC motors, is the wear point that is missed.
There a steam version of this video?
Not yet. The simple answer is most 2-4-2, 4-4-2 and some 2-6-4 models.
I think you need a sequel
Lionel Mpc rectifiers
Gg1s
Williams?
GG1s and rectifiers are electrics, not diesels, plus GG1s tend to command more than the budget parameters of the video. Likewise, Williams diesels are very nice, but as a result it is difficult to find them in good condition under $150.
My k line disales Kee going strong
Could you do a video on budget steam locomotives
A good idea!
Certainly! @@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks
I am at this moment bidding on a non-tested 6-1285 Lionel 0/O27 Sante Fe Twin Diesel MPC era early 1970s boxed set with 6 freight cars in original boxed set including 8020 powered engine and 8021 non powered dummy engine but lacking the the 027 tracks that originally. These were Alco FA types. I'm currently top bidder at $86 + $20 shipping. I'm wondering how much higher it's worth bidding for? From pictures the engines and cars look look to be cosmetically in good shape. It's being sold by a pawn shop, not an individual owner our hobby store.
Value is subjective. How badly do you want the items? Are you interested as a collector, operator, or both? I personally would go no higher unless you REALLY want the items with the original box.
Update: I did not win that bid (too many snipers on automatic bidding at the last minute) nor another bid on postwar Lionel 212 engine and a 218 dummy from the same seller on a separate auction . Ebay bidding on model trains is a cutthroat business. Whatever the initial starting bid is you'll be lucky to win with a final bid at least twice as much as the opening bid. It's ridiculous! On the Santa Fe Twin diesel set I gave up when the bidding went above $130 not counting shipping. But I did win on another auction for a silver & blue modern era Lionel 6-18994 engine with lights & horn for $69 plus $27.59 for shipping & taxes. The 6-18994 is a 2000's vintage made in China O gauge engine with MSRP of $89 but is supposed to be OK with O27 curves. Fixed rear coupler but no front coupler and no 'dummy' engine or tender. Really don't care about that, just want a add 2nd engine to pull postwar O27 streamline passenger cars. But at least it has a track powered electronic horn.
@@terramar72delrey93 Well, it depends. Most of my eBay finds in the past year I've been the only bidder. Don't give up.
I'm having trouble with my Texas special locomotive it won't pull any car's can you tell me how to fix the issue I'm using postwar Lionel car's my name is Bill Harvey
If it's a 1055 it's not a great puller. Add some weight and liquid traction tire to help some. Modern cars will also help. And oil the bearings on your Postwar cars. th-cam.com/video/J5utRr6m-oY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KVyjId-TJJkl6sAS
I only own one Lionel train set with steam locomotive is the polar express 5.0 blue tooth
Nice!
Very nice cost effective review. My main issue is the $ amount used for low cost engines. I had one of the Lionel NASCAR GP (brand new) dual can in the trucks i would advise viewers to stay away from. It derailed and smoked up the wiring before i could retrieve it. Lionel made good and repaired it. It did the same thing again upon derailing. Smoking it even worse. IMHO the engines w/electronics not well made nor long lasting. It left a bad taste in my mouth for any toys with electronics. I have purchased 1950 to 1958 Lionel Alco “A” diesels for as low as $25 plus shipping on Ebay. Some are aluminum frame others starting in 1957 are sheet metal frame. All are double magna traction axles and all forward/reverse w/E units. A couple 202 & 214 only single axle magna traction (suggest avoid if longer consists or climbs). I find it totally unnecessary to spend $100 on an engine, I’m cheap. The prewar Lionel are better made more robust engines and will last years more. Author points some Alco’s out in this video. I must caution 1959 and newer Alco’s do not have bearings in the front trucks. That stopped after 1958. Excessive wear on sheet metal w/axles causes derails on turn outs. So look for prior to 1959 manufacture. Also the 2000 series made prior to 200 series is even better with heavier trucks and cast frames. This is excellent video but more can be found for way less than $100 if one looks on line and train shows which is even cheaper without shipping. Thank you for posting
Thanks for the feedback. You are right that other items can SOMETIMES be found under $100, but I was trying to focus on those that are CONSISTENTLY under $150. Thanks also for the feedback on Postwar FAs, and thanks for watching!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I can assure you if you stay away from retail sales and buy from other train enthusiast you will have no problem staying well under $100. Many will need cleaning and very basic oiling. There are plenty of you tubes to help in maintenance and cleaning. Pretty generally costs more money, so be prepared to do it one’s self and save some cash.
I just bought the tycoemd gp 40 for 125.00 dollars a pretty good deal I think
Hmmm... it's been a while since I did anything in HO scale, but I don't recall TYCO ever making a GP40. Interesting.
I recently got the Spirit of 1776 U36b diesel for only $75.
Nice!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks What made it better was that I also won a $25 dollar certificate as a door prize at the show and I used it for the purchase as well.
So, in the end, I only paid a total of $50.00 for a nice smooth runner in good exterior condition. No scratches or chips as far as I can tell.
It only wobbles a bit as it runs.
@@patrickd.3681 Make sure the traction tire is properly seated. That might case the wobble.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Thanks for the “tip.” Seriously.
The drive system would appear to have been modified on the S-2.
Compared to the Marx version? Yes. Significantly upgraded.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I have never seen anything like that original system on any other train. I would like to get one though.
Is there a plan for a steam locomotive version of this video?
There. This comment is on the correct video this time.
The steam selection is pretty limited in that price range, but I'm considering it.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricksShould do it be quite helpful.
The clothes pilot on the front of the ALCO fa looks so much more realistic. Earlier same it was made in 0 27 side and not the larger scale size like the F3
Yes, but it keeps you from running powered A-A pairs.
Put an engine without coupler in front and use one with front and rear coupler as second engine. If both are powered be sure to select E unit so direction is correct. If not they may with a slight current break/interruption become un paired for moving direction.
@@genemanno1533 Right. But if NEITHER has a front coupler...
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks you can always run one of the other Alco units with the unit switched to where the cast unit will be in reverse and the 202 will be in forward you could also put a 202 on each end of a train simulator push-pull train wired up the same way she just way one is always pushing and one is always pulling. A single orange 202 has enough pulling power to pull enough lightweight and PC Milwaukee special Passenger cars. My other orange 202 pause a line of 027 orange operating boxcars with an orange caboose. Before covid I acquired a new in box Milwaukee special set so now I can have a steam-powered orange passenger train as well as the diesel-powered one. And for a small for by 8027 layout you're not going to have long trains anyway.
Are these locomotive o scale model train or ho
O
My marx 1666 is super heavy not made from plastic fie cast very great quality steam locomotive very impressed with marx locomotives not very impressed with Lionel the price you pay for Lionel you should have a great quality locomotive
Are you sure it's not a 666? Also, are you sure it's not a Lionel #1666 - a very nice diecast 2-6-2 steamer.
Anyone else annoyed by the fact that the C&O caboose is backwards
Cabooses can travel in either direction.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks That's right. In addition, the Santa Fe, as part of their union agreement with conductors and brakemen, was required to turn the caboose around if the crew requested it. As a subtle nod to this, I tend to run my cabooses cupola forward behind my Santa Fe locomotives. Plus it just looks good having one turned every now and again.
Today's high-tech locomotives are extremely dangerous to work on. They have high voltage capacitors that if shorted-out accidentally can electrocute you. They are not the simple engines of the 1950s. They did an article about this and classic toy trains a guy touched the wrong thing and it stopped his pacemaker.
OUCH! Thanks for posting!
Is the capacitance of a toy train enough to affect pace maker? If it is “high tec locomotives” should have warning labels. Scary ……….
@@genemanno1533 It would depend on the capacitor. I'm not an electrician, but I know that the right capacitor operated the wrong way can be catastrophic even at relatively low voltages.
@@genemanno1533 I am just going by what I remember seeing in the classic toy trains article. Some of these have very high amounts of electricity in order to keep sound effects on after the power is shutdown. Obviously older guys who had knowledge of Lionel trains thought they could service some like they did the old ones and there must have been injured as a result enough for them to write the article saying don't touch them.
Not to dispute what Frank said because I didn't see that CTT article he mentioned, but having worked in the copier repair field for thirty years I did learn a bit about circuit boards. So, this is a "take it for what it's worth" post.
First, the average PCB (Printed Circuit Board) won't handle more than 24 volts DC. There may or may not be capacitors on the board depending on it's use and even then it's the amperage that injures, not the voltage. Now maybe the larger capacitors that hold voltage on some current production models independently of the PCB's can be an issue but I very much doubt it's enough to cause electrocution. It MAY be enough to interfere with pacemaker operation but as I said I didn't see the article so won't comment further.
I WILL say that PCB's have reached such a level of sophistication that you can forget about trying to fix them yourself. On the job we gave up on in-the-field PCB repairs decades ago, it's just not possible anymore without the proper diagnostic equipment and precision tools. So don't even try it yourself, you're wasting your time.
By the way, take it from me it's the sophisticated electronics that's a najor factor driving the cost of those high-end O Gauge locomotives. You'd be shocked (No pun intended!) at how much those PCB's cost. The were some of the most expensive, if not THE most expensive individual components of the copiers I used to work on.