Lead vs Lead Free Solder - Collin’s Lab Notes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2021
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Learn some key differences between lead & lead-free solder. #soldering #leadfree #adafruit #collinslabnotes
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I feel like there are no good hobbyist grade fume extractors.
They are either the really dinky plastic desktop one with a computer fan and a filter I'm not sure does much, or they're a ridiculously expensive industrial thing some people might have to take out loans to buy.
There should be more 100-200 dollar fume extractors which are just a stiff hose that goes to a box with proper filters, preferably from a company I trust to actually make sure its doing the safety it promises to because I don't have a testing facility in my basement, no matter what my hoarding of parts may say.
Northridgefix apparently sells these
I have a Valtcan Ts500, and it works fine.
Honestly I use a Honeywell “air purifier” that was about $100
@@dylanwhite6539 that works 🤷♂️
I own one from northridgefix
I have a total of 6 rolls of solder at my job as an electrical engineer. Every one of them serves a specific purpose.
My main roll of solder is Felder ISO-Core ultra clear SN96.5AG3CU0.5. I use it for everything where I have a clean surface, it has REL0 flux in it, which is not toxic.
The next roll of Solder I employ is the Stannol SN95.5AG3.8CU0.7 - it has ROM1 flux, so it can be used for surfaces that are not perfectly clean, the fumes are more toxic. Then I have a roll of Stannol 99.3CU0.7 ORH1, and I only use it for very oxidized surfaces. Then I have the weller SN96.5AG3.0CU0.5 with REM1 flux. It is used for repairs of electronic equipmenent and has the best wetting ability from all of them - it is possibly a quality issue tho.
Now on to the leaded solders:
I have a roll of Felder ISO-core "EL" 60/40, I believe the flux type is RMA/ROM1, I use it for repairs on old equipment that had leaded in it before.
Then I have a mystery roll that has no flux in it, and I assume it also is 60/40, I only use it for repairs where I get to use a bunch of external flux.
I have probably a bit of lead poisoning, when I was a kid I was able to just buy 60/40 from the hardware store and used about 2 rolls from 9-21 yeas old. Last year I had to step up my soldering game at the company, so I researched and bought myself Stannol Kristall 611 REL0 SN96.5AG3CU0.5 for the home use - to be very honest, I cannot understand how people hate lead-free that much - set the iron a bit higher and use external flux if very necessary - you will not really know a difference.
Have both, use both, pick one depending on whether or not the kids might handle it. Good lead free isn't much harder than leaded, especially if you've got plenty of flux.
"You already do that, yes? You're nodding?" Lol! I do actually, paid the medium bucks for the Hakko one after deciding that opening my office window to insert a repurposed bathroom exhaust fan every time I soldered was a pain. Not the strongest thing ever, but if the workbench stays clean I can keep it close to the work, and all is well 👍
I used the Hakko filter by itself for a while until I started working flat on the bench with added flux. After a coughing fit I ordered the desk clamp mount that holds the filter above the desk like a magnifier lamp.
I have a big roll I inherited from my father. I don't know what type but it works really well. Even though I use it all the time there will still be most of it left to pass on to my child.
😂😂
I still use lead solder... I had to give up on lead free. It was terrible. I know a girl who works for a company that builds custom wiring harnesses for the military and they are %100 not allowed to used lead free solder, the military wants only lead based solder because they had terrible issues with lead free solder
I'm pretty sure mission critical electronics like aerospace and medical still use leaded unless something changed recently.
@@MMuraseofSandvich That's true, even in the EU for aviation and the like leaded is not only allowed, but recommended, often even required
I'm pretty sure it has to do with the tin escaping over time and making microscopic pins that can cause shorts and other issues. Plus, a lot of military bases had xbox 360s, and we know how those turned out :D
Ya, Mill-specs are very specific on what to use , and they always called for the leaded stuff, I can’t remember a military contract where they called for the lead free stuff.
Actually I lied, now I do recall a mill job that did require silver solder and tinning , but I forget the application. I just remember making sure that one line only had the required stuff, and we had to get new higher temp tinning pots and bars. Pretty much only used them for that one contract.
The company I work for used SAC305 NC up until I was hired and made the decision to switch to K100LD alloy from Kester. It provides a suitable joint at up to 65% less cost per roll than SAC305.
Only real drawback is the eutectic state is slightly longer, but the overall quality and appearance are better than SAC305 as far as we are concerned with all the hand based soldering.
What fume extractor is that?
I just solder outside 😭
I see some people complain and as a total hobbyist, I think maybe they are just using bad lead free solders. SN100+ seems to be the bees knees. I dont think you can even get non shiny solder joints with it.
Sn100+ works great for me too, no problems with it whatsoever
What about that Bismuth low melting point LF solder, Indium(100, or Indium-Tin. I've seen them on Digikey when browsing, there's several ratios available. How does it compare? Any thoughts on the Germanium doped solder from Chip-Quick?
(No, I don't need all the shiny solders, but they're still shiny)
I've used Chip Quik removal alloy before, it's handy if there are temperature-sensitive components on the board, but otherwise a hot air rework station is usually better. I've heard that indium based alloys are for connecting to gold plated metals, other than that I'm not terribly familiar with those solders. I'm thinking they're for very specific uses and might not play nicely with copper, tin, or brass.
Talk about fume extractors
lead copper and silver is the one i always use
Why? u have too much spare cash?
@@rachel705 it's just better and it's like 2 dollars more expensive
Which one is the best to use with surface mount components??
If you're trying to stick to RoHS or if children are going to be nearby, Kester K100LD is really good, just make sure you have ventilation or filtration. Otherwise use 63/37 leaded.
Tq sir
Lead-free solder has way too many drawbacks to being a good replacement for leaded solder. I would take a good eutectic solder alloy any day over lead-free. I don't think I have ever used a fume extractor in all the decades I have been soldering. A good HEPA air purifier in the room is all you really need if you are doing several hours of soldering. Lead-free connections are less reliable, more brittle, require temperature-controlled irons, and more aggressive flux to make decent connections.
I bought once a lead-free solder roll and sold it the day after I tested it. It is the worse replacement for Leaded Solder. I always use Leaded solder.
I use leaded solder for repairing of Graphics Card and other PCBs and the repaired piece lasts forever until the user replace them to upgrade. While the original joint lasted for about 5-7 years. Lead free is too brittle and tend to crack while the leaded solder is softer and doesn't crack. I think companies switched to lead free to produce electronics that will die sooner so that their products keep selling.
NO THEY DIDNT, they switched cause lead is extremely hazardous to our health, it causes permanent brain damage and organ damage than cannot be reversed. Lead is a poison.
I'm soldering 20 minutes per years and have a lot of herited solder with some lead and no fume extractor.
Once I should have a over successful product I will change for sure.
Not nodding so much actually...
lead is always better is easier to use
I almost bought lead free until the flux bit. I’ll just wash my hands
i am not nodding i am noing
I'm using Sn100Ni+, and honestly it works just fine for me. And yes, I have used leaded before
worse fumes, you say?? well...