Crimping Connectors - Collin’s Lab Notes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2021
- Get the right tools for the job @ adafruit:
www.adafruit.com/?q=CRIMPING&...
Crimping JST connectors is quick & easy with the right tools and a few helpful tips. #adafruit #collinslabnotes #crimping #jst
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These type of connectors do best when you do not twist the wires. Big Clive explains why in a recent video of his.
Hi fellow BC enjoyer! 👋
Was just about to say that
Good to see these types of tutorials still being produced.
Teaching Tech has a really good tutorial on a bunch of different connectors, including a buying guide for all of the different tools. It is specially oriented towards 3d printing but the only difference would be the crimpers and hardware kits you’d need for your specific application! I imagine there’s a LOT of overlap since they’re just standard connectors (jst, DuPont, ferrels, etc etc)
I finally found a crimper I like, it has two dies next to each other, a larger side and smaller side - once I clearly wrote “front” and “wire” on the opposing sides because I’m slow, I get perfect crimps every time. I had bought like 4 sets of crimpers, including one like these, and had just decided that crimping cannot be done by hand and I’d been tricked. Now mine are as good as factory. Practice also has a lot to do with it, and using tweezers to place the metal bit just right in the die is crucial, the tab that sticks out the back abuts the face of the front die
Anyway, takes a tiny bit longer to place the connector right, but it’s much faster overall, doing both steps at once. Advancing the die two clicks makes it so the insulation even stops at the right depth
Wait, I thought you weren't supposed to twist wires before crimping on a connector!
That’s actually true. But a light twist as seen on the video should not affect crimp quality and helps the strands keep together so it’s easier to get them all into the connector.
@@monteramer6602 ,
🤔🙂👍🍻
I came to the comments after watching Big Clive this evening to ask the same thing.
@@LostDryerSocks it's probably "avoid twisting but get all the stands in the crimp connector, even if it requires a light twist". There's no twisting in the instructions from JST (yes they have printable instructions/inspection guide)
@@aarorasilainen The crimping is exepected to bite down parallell to the strands. So the strands should not be twisted.
I learned the hard way its better soldering the wire to these things when working with high frequency applications!
I was using those exact same crimping pliers, jaws and connector. I searced youtube for a tutorial and finally got it but this would've been spot on.
how do you get it inside the plastic connector?
Wow!!! You have nooo idea how helpful this is thank you!!!!!!
I needed this tutorial.
Alright damnit! That’s it! I’m subscribing!!!🤯
There is a blog post out there by Matt Millman discussing common crimped connector terminals, and it has tons of great photos of what you should be looking for in a crimp that's up to standards.
We use a ton of JST-SM wire to wire connectors, so much so that we have a pair of the official JST crimpers. Those things are amazingly good, but super expensive.
This is what I came to say. Matt Millman's research and documentation of wire terminals and crimpers is probably the most comprehensive and useful ever written.
This is something I wanna learn. Thanks
My favorite terminal crimper is the DTT-16-00 TE gun. For this specific terminal youd have to use a different clamp and die block but its so nice.
I Use a crimping Tool Designed to only crimp once it Has a "step" in it and Works Like a Charm and on top saves time 👍
Great tutorial - I have the same Engineer crimping tool (PA-20) and it is fantastic. Sometimes the terminals get a bit stuck but it's very easy to free them, and it's not expensive for what it does (compared to the official JST or Molex tools).
How to sever multiple strands in one go: twist the wires before crimping
hi collin, we love you
More connector crimping machines here!
Ive been wanting THIS for a verry long time now..
Thanks for the tip. Saved me a headache.
Seemingly simple, yet when I do it its always horrible, but I did not realize you had to do it twice.
I thought maybe I got the wrong crimp heads, good to know I was doing it wrong.
(ok its still really simple)
Thank you for this
Love you Collin..
i like the engineer universal crimping pliers,
the amount of times i saw a civil engineer pick up a pair of pliers just for the pair to spontaneously burst into flames...
at least 5 times a day, they always pick the pliers made specifically for Geotehnical engineers by accident. So many singed hands, it even happened to me once or twice.
happily with these brand spanking new universal engineer pliers, sudden combustion is a thing of the past.
Looks so tidy :D
Thank you so much.
A good crimp has some defining characteristics:
1) The conductor is fully captured by the forward tabs.
2) The individual strands are tightly compressed such that their cross-section forms a tessellated hexagon pattern.
3) The insulation tabs are compressed _around_ the insulation and not _into_ it.
Matt Millman has a *fantastic* blog in which he delves into the finer points of terminal connectors and crimping systems. If you're even remotely interested in this kind of stuff you'll find it a great read.
There is a huge array of different connectors and crimpers on the market and not every tool works with every connector. In fact, the right tool is crucial to a good crimp and most failed crimps are (probably) the result of a mismatch (and operator error).
You DO NOT twist conductors when using that style of crimp. Twisting them does more harm than good when the crimp wings fold in and secure around the conductors; often sheering several conductors.
Select crimping pliers / pin as per manufacturers recommendation
Super
What is the name of these connectors?
ok, question: Why crimp, when I could solder the wire to the connector?
Serious question, wanting to learn a thing
In the end I'd solder just to be 100% sure.
Can i replace with jst sm connecter?
Is it possible to use pliers instead of crimping
What’s the name of that crimping tool?
Should NEVER twist the conductors when crimping.
* EDIT to satisfy pendants:
You should neither twist or untwist the conductors, especially for "open barrel" (winged) crimps like the JST-XH shown in this video. Just strip the insulation, tidy up the strands so none are displaced or crossing, then crimp.
Don't know where you heard that but should have a little twist to help the wires not fray
@@CokesAndTokes - what I say is definitely truth. You can confirm it yourself with a magnifying glass, or Google. The crimp squeezes the 2 winged sides down into the lug, and creates 2 separate cylindrical tubes that encase the strands. These squeeze so tightly that the copper is literally reformed to create a permanent and almost "welded" connection.
If the strands are twisted then any that are across the centreline will be snapped off as the 2 sides squeeze down and wrap around.
@@johncoops6897 You shouldn't over-twist the strands however. If over-twisted, the distribution of strands may be uneven and the wire cross-section will be affected, which will also negatively affect your crimp. -Google
Like I said it's OK to twist it a little bit so your statement is wrong out of the box
@@CokesAndTokes - no, it is not wrong. For *THIS* kind of crimp terminal, the strands need to stay straight. Slight twisting is tolerated (although DEFINITELY not recommended) for tubular crimps where the pressure is applied from all sides, since they will get squeezed together anyway.
However *THIS* style of crimp does not work that way. The tabs on either side are turned 180° and cut straight down into the strands of wires. Any strands that cross that centreline may be severed.
I cannot help you stop being an arrogant know-it-all, however I can certainly guide other people about the correct way to perform crimps on *THIS* kind of terminal.
@@johncoops6897 maybe you should specify more. And not say "NEVER" do this while crimping. If you're just gonna say it's OK 2 comments later?
That’s how I do it.
I usually use 1.6 for both the inner and outer tabs, is this not correct?
Might depend on how secure/tight you want it and size of the connector
Thanks u save my day
Donde las venden ?
😳 shoot, need me a pair of them crimpers then, I've been using flush cutters 😁 (same result)
Don’t twist the wire, when you do that, it will cut the wire core when crimping it
I think the insulation requires a soft squeeze not a strong one.
Die decides it if properly selected
The insulation isn't through the strain relief thoughh, the insulation will wriggle right out of the strain relief if done like this.
Boy! Your hands are quite shaky. Can see that in the video.
Should u tin the wire before crimping?
No
Okay now to remove that crimper....!?
I'm sure there are crimpers that crimp both. Or am I wrong here?🤔
Yes but they are 500$+ instead of 20$ for these. Much more cost effective for hobbyists
@@phiIippejean wait these are only $20? I was under the impression that a crimp tool that works will be completely unaffordable, so I avoided looking at them. If I can get one cheaply enough, even if it's just a tiny bit finicky, I must buy one right away...
@@phiIippejean 500$? I'm from EU but even here I can find crimpers that crimp them both for way far cheaper. Around 30€ and up. Usually i find stuff that are cheaper in US compared to the EU.
@@DaveDorenbergVeltman depending on the type of crimpers and manufacturers it varies a lot.
But for aviation/medical grade crimps, I use a lot of Molex/Hirose/Amphenol/TE crimpers that are 200-400$ for handheld and like 1000-3000$ for automatic crimping machines.
It's definitely not worth that much, but the crimps themselves are so cheap that they gotta make money somewhere.
Sleeve not grimping propely
Yes, but dont twist the wire!!!!
I would get fired if i would break such safety rules
If you are not using the proper tool for the job. 😂
Very bad