thumbs up 10/10. his unique style of electronics education, with his slow/clear voice and simple explanations, is highly accessible i think to electronics newbies, and those who may have english as a second language.. a great asset to humankind!
I was looking for video that explains how desoldering gun is working. All videos was 10m+ long, but all I needed is just to see it in action. This video is the shortest of top 20 I saw in search. Clean, informative, interesting, no side stuff. I wish all videos would be short and informative like this one...
@@dragnet53 unleaded solder requires more heat. I've had to turn my station up to 415C to get it to melt. of course, make sure to be generous with the flux as well, and you might find better success if you melt some leaded solder onto the joint and then remove it all together
Personal opinion, desoldering smd with a heatgun is a breeze, simply heat the element slowly up you want to desolder, and then wipe it off the board. Soldering normal solder joint get one of those solder sucking irons (a combination of soldering iron and solder sucker) and then heat the connection up and suck the solder out, the easiest method I have found so far to do the job, makes desoldering especially pin rows a breeze!
I can't begin to tell you how helpful your videos have been to me Collin. I've been building synthesizer modules for the past year and you've saved me a ton of time and taught me a great deal. Thanks for all the effort!
Great presentation style. Collin you rock. None of the excitable presentation style or product promotion, just to the point and simply explained with a touch of humour. 10/10. More education clips like this are needed!
This is really good. Clear instructions, detailed camera work, and a pinch of goofy humor. That's funny. I'm gonna see if I can repair my mouse, now; thank you!
I've finally been able to replace the switches on my mouse (G Pro Wireless) that started doubleclicking. Thanks buddy. I love slow and clear explanations that give you the time to assimilate the information. The camera work is great too.
I know this is super old, but I just did my first solder today. I wanted to do something simple, so got a little blink pack that turns lights on and off. They linked to your channel for desoldering tips. Thanks a lot. This was super helpful. I was wondering what the wick was for and why my setup came with a weird suction thing. Thanks a lot for providing info to newbies like me!
I have serious respect for ANYONE that can solder. It seems so simple, yet I just can't seem to get the hang of it. I love your little jokes and sarcasm that you threw in there. Well done.
Thank you, you are a hero!! I just replaced the Lclick switch on my Logitech G402 mouse. It took me an hour to remove the 3-pin switch because there was no space to hold on to the switch on the other side as i had planned. I had to de-solder whole prying it. It was a lot of work. I am going to order the Desoldering Pump and Desoldering Braid. Thanks again!! Now my mice will be repaired easily, hopefully.
Glad to see new Collin's Lab videos. I enjoy his quirky delivery. I find it interesting that he was saying to use desoldering braid for "dealing with a large amount of solder". I generally thought of it in the opposite. I would use my solder sucker for quickly sucking up the majority of the solder joint, and then using my solder braid to get the last little bit of solder to free the component lead from the side of the through-hole plating. (Chem-Wik flux impregnated solder wick for the win!) Granted, all my solder suckers have the heat-resistant rigid nozzles so in order to get a good "suck" I had to quickly remove the iron and push the nozzle flat on the PWB just as I'm pressing the button in. I guess I never liked the waste of filling up inches of solder braid on one desoldering action, especially when I was the one paying for consumables. I should get myself one of those solder suckers with the heat resistant flexible tips one of these days... I also use solder braid for cleaning excess solder from the pads (both THT and SMT pads) before applying new solder. Hold the braid against the board with the iron tip and gently wipe.
It's the suit (lol) and the whole Agent Smith look. It's very effective. You dont expect to see dudes in suits doing PCB work hahah. That's gonna be memorable any time you see it. You have to dig this dudes style.
To remove SMD passives, simply put a large blob of solder on the iron tip, lay the tip on the part, and slide the blob between both joints quickly. The part will wipe off with very little effort. Always be careful cutting apart headers while they are still soldered to the board. The pins will be forced apart from each other and this puts a lot of stress on the pads. You can easily damage a board. I recommend sliding the plastic separator off of the pins instead of cutting it. Chip Quik is awesome for removing SMD ICs, but remember that the alloy is specially designed to create WEAK, easily removed joints. You don't won't Chip Quik to remain when you solder on the new part. After removing the old part, you should wick up all of the Chip Quik, then flood the pads with fresh solder, and wick again. This is to ensure that as much of the Chip Quik as possible is gone.
I’m having an issue with through-hole components where the solder wick isn’t sucking up all the solder... it’ll take in some (and it often seems like it’s taking a lot), but some solder remains pooled in the hole. At that point, the wick *and the heat of the iron* can’t properly reach it. I can re-solder the joint and try again, but it’s not perfect. I only got 4 successes out of nearly 50 attempts. The pads are starting to burn. Will the solder sucker do a better job at removing solder without it pooling in the hole? I’m trying to desolder switches in a mechanical keyboard.
Great video. Especially love the music. :) ...although, a desoldering station can be an option. Branded ones (Hakko, Weller, JBC, ...) can be quite expensive, but ZD985 (as Dave Jones mentioned) seems to work well. This sort of stuff makes desoldering process a REAL breeze, at least desoldering of through-hole components.
Great video. Very helpful. BTW, from Online Etymology Dictionary: Solder (n): early 14c., soudur, from Old French soldure, soudeure, from souder, originally solder, "to consolidate, close, fasten together, join with solder" (13c.), from Latin solidare "to make solid," from solidus "solid" (see solid (adj.)). Modern form in English is a re-Latinization from early 15c. The loss of Latin -l- in that position on the way to Old French is regular, as poudre from pulverem, cou from collum, chaud from calidus. The -l- typically is sounded in British English but not in American, according to OED, but Fowler wrote that solder without the "l" was "The only pronunciation I have ever heard, except from the half-educated to whom spelling is a final court of appeal ..." and was baffled by the OED's statement that it was American. Related: Soldered; soldering. The noun is first attested late 14c.
Tried it for the first time and it was a annoying. The pump sucker was useless but I see clearly I wasn't using it properly. Lucky I had an impact drill, I could use a very small drill bit to drill it off and then add the new component to the circuit board which I was doing it for my monitor. To my surprise I got it going (eureeka!) unbelievable. Saved me $200-300 for a new 24inch monitor. Will see how long it will last but so far so good been a whole week now. New beginnings and journeyman to the soldering world :)
I like how you put on a black suit and black tie (dark green?) to do your videos. You look like you are ready for a scene in The Matrix. The sideburns are a nice touch, too.
would like to have heard mentioned why I can't heat the solder of my Raspberry PI 3 to molten state in order to remove large components. (really, any purchased or mass produced object)
Excellent video! Question: my 30-watt soldering iron melts my regular tin wire, but when I try to desolder parts in electronic devices like a mouse or cell phone, it won't melt the solder. Should I get a more powerful soldering iron?
SMD resistors and capacitors are easy to remove with your soldering iron just alternatingly heat both pads quickly and you can usually remove a part in a couple of seconds.
I held my heated solder machine to the solder part of a pin for like 10 minutes. Both the circuit board and the circuit itself become hotter than the sun. But the solder attached at the bottom of the pin of the circuit still didn't melt. Is there any tips for that part?
I'm rather new to soldering myself, but I had the same issue. I read that this is because the old solder has no remaining flux (that helps it melt better), and to either apply some fresh flux, or even apply some fresh solder that has flux in it (a lot of solder has a flux core). NOW try desoldering the pin. The fresh solder helps transfer the heat energy a LOT better, and it ALL will melt a lot better, allowing you to pull the pin free and then use a solder-sucker to clean off the old (and new) solder. Had to do this today after watching this video as a refresher.
@@coby_mj2536 I second this. It works. Especially if your fresh solder has a rosin flux core. Once you get that to melt, it helps transfer the heat a lot better to the old solder, making it melt as well. Then, suck it all up before it cools and solidifies. :)
Hey Collin! You are a Great Instructor and 'am always looking forward to watching your video tutorials. Since the electronics market is changing to SMDs more and more, a presentation of hot air solder stations would be in order, plus All the peripherals that go with it. That includes the type of flux, solder paste and the applicators such as the gauge of the blunt needle tip. Google & eBay are my best source of this information so far. You could do better. So, how about a video on the subject? Also, when buying DIY kits (as they are now called), seems there is always an SMD IC chip that has to be soldered onto the board. There's just no getting around it! Keep up the Good work! Lord Saint Dennis Charles Smart, Enlightened Heaven's Spokesman & Hobbyist
I literally can't desolder. I've tried so many times with both wick and the pump. Usually the solder either just doesn't even melt no matter what I do or the pump doesn't really pull all the solder out of the hole.
thumbs up 10/10. his unique style of electronics education, with his slow/clear voice and simple explanations, is highly accessible i think to electronics newbies, and those who may have english as a second language.. a great asset to humankind!
I was looking for video that explains how desoldering gun is working. All videos was 10m+ long, but all I needed is just to see it in action. This video is the shortest of top 20 I saw in search. Clean, informative, interesting, no side stuff. I wish all videos would be short and informative like this one...
when im waching i feel like im going bak to the 1970's his dress sence and even the intro music lol i love it though
It's good to see you on TH-cam again, Collin. Nice camera work, nice info, nice everything!
+Applied Science I love when the channels I love love the channels I love.
RSP same
nice hair
I'm finding desoldering a real pain. Thanks for the humorous attitude. It's just what I need. And there are some big tips here too.
My problem is that no matter how hot your solder iron gets that the solder doesn't liquify. I wonder what type of solder do these companies use?
@@dragnet53 unleaded solder requires more heat. I've had to turn my station up to 415C to get it to melt. of course, make sure to be generous with the flux as well, and you might find better success if you melt some leaded solder onto the joint and then remove it all together
Personal opinion, desoldering smd with a heatgun is a breeze, simply heat the element slowly up you want to desolder, and then wipe it off the board. Soldering normal solder joint get one of those solder sucking irons (a combination of soldering iron and solder sucker) and then heat the connection up and suck the solder out, the easiest method I have found so far to do the job, makes desoldering especially pin rows a breeze!
I can't begin to tell you how helpful your videos have been to me Collin. I've been building synthesizer modules for the past year and you've saved me a ton of time and taught me a great deal. Thanks for all the effort!
So this is what Agent Smith is up to these days
i thought the same thing haha
Mr Anderson!!!!
The Shadow Man yeah he’s really let himself go
I thought the same thing lmao
lol ""Mr. Anderson"
Great presentation style. Collin you rock. None of the excitable presentation style or product promotion, just to the point and simply explained with a touch of humour. 10/10. More education clips like this are needed!
This is really good. Clear instructions, detailed camera work, and a pinch of goofy humor.
That's funny. I'm gonna see if I can repair my mouse, now; thank you!
LOVE Colin's Lab videos! (wish they weren't so infrequent though!)
The mans busy sharing his wisdom and cool in different mediums
I've finally been able to replace the switches on my mouse (G Pro Wireless) that started doubleclicking. Thanks buddy. I love slow and clear explanations that give you the time to assimilate the information. The camera work is great too.
So glad to see you again dear Collin
I know this is super old, but I just did my first solder today. I wanted to do something simple, so got a little blink pack that turns lights on and off. They linked to your channel for desoldering tips. Thanks a lot. This was super helpful. I was wondering what the wick was for and why my setup came with a weird suction thing. Thanks a lot for providing info to newbies like me!
I have serious respect for ANYONE that can solder. It seems so simple, yet I just can't seem to get the hang of it.
I love your little jokes and sarcasm that you threw in there. Well done.
I love his suit. He looks like he's ready to take over Wall Street. Or the Matrix.
Imagine him saying: "Mr. Anderson!".
Or Scotland Yard
Thank you, you are a hero!! I just replaced the Lclick switch on my Logitech G402 mouse. It took me an hour to remove the 3-pin switch because there was no space to hold on to the switch on the other side as i had planned. I had to de-solder whole prying it. It was a lot of work. I am going to order the Desoldering Pump and Desoldering Braid. Thanks again!! Now my mice will be repaired easily, hopefully.
This needs to be on regularly.
I had a solder-sucker in my beginner’s kit the whole time and I didn’t know what it was for. Thank you!
Glad to see new Collin's Lab videos. I enjoy his quirky delivery.
I find it interesting that he was saying to use desoldering braid for "dealing with a large amount of solder". I generally thought of it in the opposite. I would use my solder sucker for quickly sucking up the majority of the solder joint, and then using my solder braid to get the last little bit of solder to free the component lead from the side of the through-hole plating. (Chem-Wik flux impregnated solder wick for the win!) Granted, all my solder suckers have the heat-resistant rigid nozzles so in order to get a good "suck" I had to quickly remove the iron and push the nozzle flat on the PWB just as I'm pressing the button in. I guess I never liked the waste of filling up inches of solder braid on one desoldering action, especially when I was the one paying for consumables. I should get myself one of those solder suckers with the heat resistant flexible tips one of these days...
I also use solder braid for cleaning excess solder from the pads (both THT and SMT pads) before applying new solder. Hold the braid against the board with the iron tip and gently wipe.
+Christopher Elliott (Sembazuru) Same
There is something special in his videos that makes me not forget.
It's the suit (lol) and the whole Agent Smith look. It's very effective. You dont expect to see dudes in suits doing PCB work hahah. That's gonna be memorable any time you see it. You have to dig this dudes style.
To remove SMD passives, simply put a large blob of solder on the iron tip, lay the tip on the part, and slide the blob between both joints quickly. The part will wipe off with very little effort.
Always be careful cutting apart headers while they are still soldered to the board. The pins will be forced apart from each other and this puts a lot of stress on the pads. You can easily damage a board. I recommend sliding the plastic separator off of the pins instead of cutting it.
Chip Quik is awesome for removing SMD ICs, but remember that the alloy is specially designed to create WEAK, easily removed joints. You don't won't Chip Quik to remain when you solder on the new part. After removing the old part, you should wick up all of the Chip Quik, then flood the pads with fresh solder, and wick again. This is to ensure that as much of the Chip Quik as possible is gone.
both videos are quick and straight to the point
Excellent, quick easy science class all in one. The Alton Brown of electronics world!!
I was wondering ¿why so pro? Then I saw Adafruit's logo and everything made sence.
Great video!
+Adafruit Industries Seriously, we need MORE Collin and MORE frequently.
This video is amazingly calming and educational!
I feel like his narrative style is a throwback to 50s/60s high school education films. The black glasses frames seal the deal.
Do MOAR of these moving picture and sound thingies!
He looks like someone out of the matrix and I love it.
that music in background 🤩🤩!!! MIB 👍👏🤝🤩 soldering looks cool now after watching this video🤝🤩
I like Collin's Lab. Very helpful.
I really enjoy the information formatting....superb job
This video is great. Thanks so much for all the effort that went into making this informative upload. I've subbed. Looking forward to more.
I’m having an issue with through-hole components where the solder wick isn’t sucking up all the solder... it’ll take in some (and it often seems like it’s taking a lot), but some solder remains pooled in the hole. At that point, the wick *and the heat of the iron* can’t properly reach it. I can re-solder the joint and try again, but it’s not perfect. I only got 4 successes out of nearly 50 attempts. The pads are starting to burn. Will the solder sucker do a better job at removing solder without it pooling in the hole? I’m trying to desolder switches in a mechanical keyboard.
Very professional presentation, well done
Colin is back?? Wow!
and how about a SMD component/package with 72 legs? would you still recommend chipquick? or a hot air desolder station??
What tip # are you using on your 888d? My current one isn’t the greatest.
Use 2x soldering irons for 2 terminal SMDs, or a SMD rework station, such as a Atten 858D for parts with more (and hidden) terminals.
Great video. Especially love the music. :)
...although, a desoldering station can be an option.
Branded ones (Hakko, Weller, JBC, ...) can be quite expensive, but ZD985 (as Dave Jones mentioned) seems to work well. This sort of stuff makes desoldering process a REAL breeze, at least desoldering of through-hole components.
Mr. Agent Smith, thank you for the tutorial.
Great video. Very helpful.
BTW, from Online Etymology Dictionary:
Solder (n): early 14c., soudur, from Old French soldure, soudeure, from souder, originally solder, "to consolidate, close, fasten together, join with solder" (13c.), from Latin solidare "to make solid," from solidus "solid" (see solid (adj.)).
Modern form in English is a re-Latinization from early 15c. The loss of Latin -l- in that position on the way to Old French is regular, as poudre from pulverem, cou from collum, chaud from calidus. The -l- typically is sounded in British English but not in American, according to OED, but Fowler wrote that solder without the "l" was "The only pronunciation I have ever heard, except from the half-educated to whom spelling is a final court of appeal ..." and was baffled by the OED's statement that it was American. Related: Soldered; soldering. The noun is first attested late 14c.
Tried it for the first time and it was a annoying. The pump sucker was useless but I see clearly I wasn't using it properly. Lucky I had an impact drill, I could use a very small drill bit to drill it off and then add the new component to the circuit board which I was doing it for my monitor. To my surprise I got it going (eureeka!) unbelievable. Saved me $200-300 for a new 24inch monitor. Will see how long it will last but so far so good been a whole week now. New beginnings and journeyman to the soldering world :)
Thankyou so much really informative and easy to follow
He was really missed! He have a really simple way to make complex things easy to understand...
Love Collins' Lab! :)
I like how you put on a black suit and black tie (dark green?) to do your videos. You look like you are ready for a scene in The Matrix. The sideburns are a nice touch, too.
is there any way to extend the leads of any component removed?
It's really good to see you back Colin ;)
how about doing a proper how to on some of the adafruit shields mmm say the motor v2
would like to have heard mentioned why I can't heat the solder of my Raspberry PI 3 to molten state in order to remove large components. (really, any purchased or mass produced object)
Excellent video! Question: my 30-watt soldering iron melts my regular tin wire, but when I try to desolder parts in electronic devices like a mouse or cell phone, it won't melt the solder. Should I get a more powerful soldering iron?
will the solder sucker's tip melt
Hot tweezers are great for two pad SMD parts. I've also seen people use two soldering irons and grab them with one in each hand.
SMD resistors and capacitors are easy to remove with your soldering iron just alternatingly heat both pads quickly and you can usually remove a part in a couple of seconds.
Dude, the Kraftwerk is strong with you! Bless!
3:00 what is this type of PCB? called
Where do i buy same typenof solider sucker as yours.
We never had problems with desoldering leaded solder. The components seem almost welded in these days!
That copper wire technique is great.
But how hot should the iron be?
I held my heated solder machine to the solder part of a pin for like 10 minutes. Both the circuit board and the circuit itself become hotter than the sun. But the solder attached at the bottom of the pin of the circuit still didn't melt. Is there any tips for that part?
I'm rather new to soldering myself, but I had the same issue. I read that this is because the old solder has no remaining flux (that helps it melt better), and to either apply some fresh flux, or even apply some fresh solder that has flux in it (a lot of solder has a flux core). NOW try desoldering the pin. The fresh solder helps transfer the heat energy a LOT better, and it ALL will melt a lot better, allowing you to pull the pin free and then use a solder-sucker to clean off the old (and new) solder. Had to do this today after watching this video as a refresher.
It's a cool Technic. Thanks you Collin's Lab.
Can someone tell me what solder is? Is that like kind of gallium or something
Collin is the best
my iron isn't hot enough to melt the lead while desoldering but works fine when i solder any suggestion ?
Apply a little new solder to what you want to desolder then suck it up. I know it sounds counter productive but it works.
have iron freshly cleaned/tinned
@@coby_mj2536 I second this. It works. Especially if your fresh solder has a rosin flux core. Once you get that to melt, it helps transfer the heat a lot better to the old solder, making it melt as well. Then, suck it all up before it cools and solidifies. :)
OMG Its rellay wondering to see even for a little usefull thing like de-soldering you guys made professional lecture type tuturial....
Love this guy man.
Which solder sucker is best? The ENGINEER the VAMPIRE or the KOTTO Solder Sucker? They are $26, $30, & $20
Another great video! Thank you Collin.
Excellent, really helpful and clear. Thank you
What about hot air blower ?
Perfect video and most informative
Collin’s Lab is The Best
When did Collin switch from Make to Adafruit?
Whats called. ? Chip quick ?
just what i was looking for. thanks for the noob friendly explanation
OK, so where did you find this very nice solder sucker?
+miro2424 They sell them. See www.adafruit.com/products/1597
Great tips. Thank you.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the info
Thank you Mr. Smith
What's the best method for removing a soldered pronged battery from a Gameboy game cartridge so I can replace it with another pronged battery?
Thanks man imma buy all these stuff right away and start reparing stuff =D
Welcome back!
Why do I feel like James Bond got a TH-cam channel
Can we have more Collin please?
Thank you. I am just a electro novice sucker but this helped
Yes! Collin's not dead!
Cool video Colin!
Great video, thanks so much. I learned a lot.
Love these videos. I hope this means we can expect to see more soon.
Hey Collin!
You are a Great Instructor and 'am always looking forward to watching your video tutorials.
Since the electronics market is changing to SMDs more and more, a presentation of hot air solder stations would be in order, plus All the peripherals that go with it. That includes the type of flux, solder paste and the applicators such as the gauge of the blunt needle tip.
Google & eBay are my best source of this information so far. You could do better. So, how about a video on the subject?
Also, when buying DIY kits (as they are now called), seems there is always an SMD IC chip that has to be soldered onto the board. There's just no getting around it!
Keep up the Good work!
Lord Saint Dennis Charles Smart, Enlightened
Heaven's Spokesman & Hobbyist
yay Colin's Lab new video
very precise; thank you bro
He's back !!!! Yeeeaaahh !
What kind of solder sucker is that
how many priece?
Can you do a video on trace repair?
I thought I knew desoldering but I was wrong. This gave me more tips and tricks.
Hakko 808 desoldering gun or the new FR301. Done. Make life easier for yourself!
I literally can't desolder. I've tried so many times with both wick and the pump. Usually the solder either just doesn't even melt no matter what I do or the pump doesn't really pull all the solder out of the hole.
Very well made video