Mercedes W163 Locate a Parasitic Battery Drain (Tele-Aid Emergency Call circuit, Fuse 8) ML350 ML500
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 เม.ย. 2021
- This video shows the step-by-step process for confirming and locating the source of a parasitic battery draw (drain, leak) on the W163 (ML320, ML350, ML500). A parasitic drain was discharging the battery on this '05 ML500 such that it wouldn't start after just a couple days sitting. The cause was determined to be the Tele-Aid module, which is an obsolete emergency call system that MB has not supported since about 2007/2008.
The steps in the first part of this video are general to any parasitic drain and show the techniques for confirming and locating the trouble circuit on the W163.
The latter part of the video shows troubleshooting of the Fuse 8 circuit and Tele-Aid circuit in particular.
Timestamps and Links:
Find the parasitic leak:
00:38 Use a multimeter to detect current at the battery
05:19 Use a multimeter to detect voltage across Fuses
10:04 Check fuses in the interior fuse box
Troubleshooting the problem circuit (Fuse 8):
14:00 Troubleshooting the Fuse 8 circuit
18:41 Checking current at the battery with Fuse 8 removed
20:44 Remove the front seat to reach the Tele-Aid module
21:51 Disconnect the Tele-Aid module
22:42 Checking the Fuse 8 circuit with the Tele-Aid module disconnected
24:01 Tele-Aid circuit diagram
27:57 Inspecting the Tele-Aid module
28:06 SRS light shows with the Tele-Aid module disconnected
Repair options for the Tele-Aid circuit:
29:23 Important information about repair options
32:46 Disconnect the overhead Tele-Aid switches ("SOS" switch)
34:17 Inspect the Tele-Aid switch board
37:18 Re-install the Tele-Aid switch
38:32 Checking voltage on Fuse 8 with the Tele-Aid switch disconnected
Installing the replacement Tele-Aid module:
39:06 Remove Fuse 8 before installing the replacement Tele-Aid module
39:32 Remove four 10mm bolts to remove the module
39:40 Comparing the old and replacement modules
40:25 Reconnect the Tele-Aid module
40:57 Checking voltage on Fuse 8 with the new module installed
41:16 Checking and clearing SRS codes
42:07 Re-install the seat
42:41 Checking current at the battery
Here are some links mentioned in the video:
Humble Mechanic's video on parasitic draws:
• The BEST Way TO Perfor...
Voltage Drop Fuse Charts:
www.powerprobetek.com/wp-cont...
Alternator diode testing:
• How to check your car ...
Removing the alternator on the W163:
• Mercedes W163 Replace ...
I hope the video is helpful. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Timestamps and Links:
*Find the parasitic leak:*
00:38 Use a multimeter to detect current at the battery
05:19 Use a multimeter to detect voltage across each fuse, then use charts to infer current
10:04 Check fuses in the interior fuse box
*Troubleshooting the problem circuit (Fuse 8):*
14:00 Troubleshooting the Fuse 8 circuit ("Transfer Case/Emergency Call" circuit)
18:41 Checking current at the battery with Fuse 8 removed
20:44 Remove the front seat to reach the Tele-Aid module
21:51 Disconnect the Tele-Aid module
22:42 Checking the Fuse 8 circuit with the Tele-Aid module disconnected
24:01 Tele-Aid circuit diagram
27:57 Inspecting the Tele-Aid module
28:06 SRS light shows with the Tele-Aid module disconnected
*Repair options for the Tele-Aid circuit:*
29:23 Important information about repair options
32:46 Disconnect the overhead Tele-Aid switches ("SOS" switch)
34:17 Inspect the Tele-Aid switch board
37:18 Re-install the Tele-Aid switch
38:32 Checking voltage on Fuse 8 with the Tele-Aid switch disconnected
*Installing the replacement Tele-Aid module:*
39:06 Remove Fuse 8 before installing the replacement Tele-Aid module
39:32 Remove four 10mm bolts to remove the module
39:40 Comparing the old and replacement modules
40:25 Reconnect the Tele-Aid module
40:57 Checking voltage on Fuse 8 with the new module installed
41:16 Checking and clearing SRS codes
42:07 Re-install the seat
42:41 Checking current at the battery
Here are some links mentioned in the video:
Humble Mechanic's video on parasitic draws:
th-cam.com/video/lRcj1fQcWwU/w-d-xo.html
Voltage Drop Fuse Charts:
www.powerprobetek.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/fuse-charts.pdf
Alternator diode testing:
th-cam.com/video/oUhgyqm0wro/w-d-xo.html
Removing the alternator on the W163:
th-cam.com/video/qeSMEd1w93k/w-d-xo.html
I hope the video is helpful. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
You re a star. Explicit explanation. Welldone L35inC!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Omg Thank you so much. This was a perfect match to my dilemma. Today I went to my Mercedes mechanic an he said that that was the only one that was draining it (F8) So I'll try the step of the SOS.
Can watch the video for the other part transfer case.
One of the finest diagnostic for a current drain ,very informative and narrated in a concise, calm way.... Should help in battery power drain on my W211 estate car ,a Euro model
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I hope I can now find the parasitic draw on my ML now as winter is just around the corner. This video was extremely helpful . Thank you.
Thanks - good luck! And thanks for watching! : )
Xentry schematics are the worst at information. At least all others you can see signal, power and ground. I had to diag my rain sensor and the schematic was useless, luckily a friend with access to aldata gave me a printout, so I could prove the sensor had good power and a good ground. On the doors, you can use a screwdriver to latch the door latch closed while door is open to put modules to sleep and maintain access to interior for tests, after just open with door handle like opening the door to return to normal position. Also, check all the grounds, they can corrode between the metal and still look ok, I am working on cleaning ALL my grounds and power connections and using dielectric grease to seal them from corroding again.This is a very good video, all the extra data you add in if priceless. Thank you so much.
Wow, thanks for adding your tips! Electrical issues are never any fun - and as you know, things are just getting more and more complicated with newer vehicles. Your note about the grounds is important, especially as these W163's are all nearing 20 - 25 years old now. Thanks again for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
Great Video. I will check and update you. My SRS stays on but with your great teaching and videos I'm learning a lot...Grateful to have found you videos & channel...
Your battery clamp lifting up method is the most genius I have ever seen to test milli amp. You know more than the shop foreman out there !
My own experience to share: W209 takes 0.5 hour to go sleep mode, W203 takes 1.5 hour. Technically they are the same chassis so not sure why such big diff. They drain 50 to 70 mA in sleep mode. 3A immediately waking up then 0.2A after 1 minute.
Thanks - I was taught that trick by someone else, and it works well! Thanks for adding your tips about the W209 and W203 - it's great to have these references : )
I am glad you gave values for normal current draw. I measured my draw, but did not know what was acceptable. This is the second time you have helped me. Thanks
I'm glad the video helps - thanks for watching! : )
Can lister to you all day lol. You have such a pleasant voice
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I do similar type of work great job
Excellent video! Super comprehensive.
Thanks for watching! : )
Thank you so much. SOS/TELEAID still works to contact a human being even though it's officially deactivated.
Thank You for your amazing instructions
Thanks for your comment, and thank you for watching! : )
Fantastic video. I have a parasitic drain on my ML and this will help me fix it. Really appreciate this. Cheers
I hope the video helps and that you can locate it! Good luck!!
Great presentation. Very useful.
Amazing video. Thumbs up
Thank you ,you are the best
Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
great video thanks
Thanks for watching! : )
Great! Thank you
Love your vlogs... 👊😎👍
Wow, I appreciate that -- thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado no problem i got ml55 03 did my starter motor on the weekend 👌
@@catmanmorgs Very cool and well done!
I didn't even have to unbolt my seat since my safe/storage drawer wasn't there 🥰I just reached under and did it with a screwdriver and my hand 🥰
Nice, thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
That was amazing
Thanks for watching! : )
Happy holidays L35
Thanks a lot... I love you way
Thanks for watching -- good luck! : )
Nice. I knew how to check for excess draw at the battery (have also got a small clamp meter that can read low values for this), and I knew you could zero in using individual fuse circuits. But I wasn't aware you could quickly infer how much current ran through each fuse from a voltage test. I thought those exposed tabs on the fuses were just for quickly checking continuity if you maybe had a blown fuse. Definitely printing out one of those charts to go in my toolbox. Thanks!
Yes, it is a great trick -- a big time saver! Thanks for watching! : )
Michael Jackson, is that you? Hee heeee 🕺
I wish I could dance like MJ!
Thanks for watching : )
You made this super easy to understand - thank you.
In my case, my multimeter doesn't go down to 5A. Only 10A. I'm not sure if that gives a different reading or not? Mine said there was 0.38 drain.
I checked over the fuses but the multimeter read 0.01 for every fuse. Is this normal?
Someone has installed a braking regulator for towing and an extra line for a fridge (no longer installed), so I'm going to check them tomorrow to see if it's the issue.
Yes, it is fine to use your 10A meter. Sounds like you're certainly getting a drain if you're seeing 380 mA (0.38 A). Definitely check that added fridge circuit that you're describing! Good luck! : )
Hi I have a question I am having the same issue with my teleaid module, do I have to match both number the “ MB sachs Nr” and “ Mot model” ??
Or just the first one ?
Question…. Disconnecting the module interfiere with anything else? Like the airbags or anything. I want to disconnect mine since I took out the stock radio. I just want to remove it entirely. But I get the SRS light. I can easily remove the SRS bulb from the dash. But I want to make sure if I get an an accident or something the are bags will still go off etc. 😂
Would you happen to know?
I just don't know - but I agree that airbags are very important and wouldn't want to interfere with that circuit or logic! I don't have enough information, but perhaps you can ask the MB technicians at the MB World forum (www.benzworld.org - note, ".org" not ".com"). There are some highly knowledge techs there who have encountered these situations, and they might be able to help! Check out the sub-form for W163's. I hope that helps : )
I have a tele aid parasitic power drain. Can't delete it nor find a module that doesn't drain.
Can’t get the link for the fuse charts to work, can anyone help ?!
Hey ! Great video ! I have 0.4 current leak on my ml 163 , on f 13 (instrument cluster, STEERING) what could i do ?
Check this thread out:
www.benzworld.org/threads/parasitic-draw-from-f13-okay-to-drive-with-on-board-computer-disconnected.2993667/
I hope that helps -- good luck!
@@L35inColorado love your work and how you really explain all the things.Just made voltage survey , on f 13 ( 10 amp) and got 0.1 v of voltage , can this make a damage to 100 amp/h battery ?
@@L35inColorado by the way, thank you for the link !!! ✌️
You doing very good job 👍👍👍
Where is the your shop located?
Thanks - I don't have a shop, and just do repairs in my garage for my family and friends. I record my repairs whenever possible so that others can save money and learn skills for their own DIY's.
Thanks for watching and being a subscriber! : )
@@L35inColorado Thanks for reply
I was live in Denver 30 year and I moved out 3 years ago come California but I'll back to Colorado soon...
Any way you're great mechanic and excellent.
Thank you so much..
Mam, I have issue with my Mercedes w220
Hi. So I disconnected the negative battery post and the negative cable. Now, when i touch one electrode of my multimeter to the negative battery post and one electrode of my multimeter to the negative cable the reading it shows me is O.04 A. Is this ok? Or is it a parastic draw? Because whenever i check my battery voltage in the mornings it shows me 11.94 V.
Yes, that draw is normal because 0.04 A is 40 milliAmps, which is normal.
L35 in Colorado - ok. I guess the problem is with the battery then. Its a brand new battery, not even a month old. Thanks.
@@delaguiar Perhaps consider checking out the alternator: I had a similar issue on an ML350, where the battery was draining down. It ended up being the connector to the voltage regulator:
th-cam.com/video/qeSMEd1w93k/w-d-xo.html
But it is also possible to have a bad cell in a new battery (if its an AGM battery), as that has happened to us before, too.
I hope that helps -- good luck!
Thanks for the help.
Fantastic informative video. But 1 area i m baffled. When you checked fuses if the fuse isnt broken then you are putting both multimeter leads on a straight wire. That wouldn't work at all...
How about that?
Thanks : )
I'm not sure what you mean regarding the multimetr - can you post a timestamp?
In this type of troubleshooting, we're not looking for a broken fuse, but instead we're looking for a closed circuit that is drawing current when it "should not" be drawing current (ie, a parasitic draw). If the fuse was blown, then there'd be no current flow in the first place. We're looking for the culprit circuit which is drawing current when it shouldn't be.
So, instead of looking for continuity over a fuse (ie, a blown fuse would have no continuity, a good fuse would have continuity), we're looking for current flow in each circuit, to see which one is the culprit.
We can check for current either by putting the multimeter in the amperage setting, opening the circuit, and using the meter to close the circuit (ie, put the meter in series in the circuit), or we can use the faster, easier (though less precise) method of checking for voltage acorss the closed circuit.
Since we can check for voltage in parallel, it is easier than check for amperage because we don't have to remove any fuses or otherwise interrupt/open/modify the circuit. Instead, we simply check for voltage, then use the tables to infer an approximate current, based on the amperage rating of the fuse.
Is that what you were asking about?
@@L35inColorado well, what i meant is that you put the black n red leads on each fuse. Fuses are one usually positive. If you connect the black to body and then red to fuse you will get reading if the fuse is good. Or nothing if the fuse is bad. 9 min mark you put both leads on a fuse which is one wire. So if you touch either wire with both leads there shouldn't be any reading...
@@junior88fan64 Referring to what's happening at 08:57: the check is for voltage on the circuit - not for continuity of the fuse. It sounds like you're thinking of it as a check for continuity, or a check to see "if the fuse is good" as you said. But what's happening at the 9 min mark is a check for voltage (not resistance/continuity) to see which circuit is drawing current (ie, which circuit is closed) when it should not be drawing current (ie, the circuit should be open).
In short, we're looking for a closed circuit, not checking whether the fuses are good. We know the fuses are good: If a fuse was bad, there wouldn't be current on the circuit in the first place. The problem is that there **is** current on some circuit when there shouldn't be, causing the battery to drain.
So, we are checking voltage across the fuses because it is a fast way to determine which circuits are energized and which are not.
More specifically, to respond:
"Fuses are one usually positive."
- none of the fuses shown here are diodes; there's no "positive" or negative side to them; these are all just regular fuses.
"If you connect the black to body and then red to fuse you will get reading if the fuse is good. Or nothing if the fuse is bad."
- again, the test is not to see if the "fuse is good";
- we already know the fuses are good, as we're not looking for an open circuit, but rather a circuit that is closed when it ought to be open (ie, a parasitic draw).
"9 min mark you put both leads on a fuse which is one wire. So if you touch either wire with both leads there shouldn't be any reading..."
- at 9 min mark, we're checking for voltage on the circuit, not continuity of the fuse (again, we already know the fuse is good);
- if you set your meter to read voltage and you touch either end of a fuse or wire on an energized circuit, you will see a voltage reading (you can see the voltage read at 09:23 on the trouble circuit).
So, the purpose of checking voltage (not resistance) across the fuses at 9 min mark is to see which circuit might be the trouble circuit:
- if the circuit is not energized, the voltage will read zero;
- if the circuit is energized, the voltage will read above zero.
Again, we're looking for a circuit that is energized when it should not be- that is, a faulty circuit which is closed and parasitically drawing current when it should be open and not drawing current.
I hope that clarifies : )
@@L35inColorado thanks
What if you simply change the sound system?
I don't know - I don't know anything about these sound systems!
I wanna marry you 😊
Merry Christmas 🎁🎄 and Happy New Year 🎈🎆🎊
I'm sorry I missed your comment! Haha, thanks and I hope you have a Merry Christmas, too, and Happy New Year : )
I don't understand your voltage measurement at fuse 8? There should be 12V at fuse 8 measured to ground. If you measure the voltage from one side of a fuse to the other it will always be zero unless the fuse is blown.
There is a small voltage drop at a fuse when the circuit is energized because the fuse is a very low resistance resistor (it is not a "zero resistance device"). The test points on the top of the fuse are used to check the fuse condition in parallel (ie, blown or not) by checking resistance, but these points can also be used to measure small (milli-volt range) voltage drops, as seen in the video.
You cannot measure current across a fuse with a DMM: you'd have to remove the fuse and get the meter in series to measure current. This is why it's convenient to measure voltage instead, then use the tables to infer current.
In the video, I am showing how to measure voltage (voltage drop) across a fuse (as a super low value resistor) to find an energized circuit that is the cause of the parasitic leak. If there is no voltage across a particular fuse, then we can rule out that circuit/circuits as the cause of the drain because we can assume that the circuit is not energized (since there's no voltage drop at the circuit's fuse). We're looking for a circuit that is energized even though it shouldn't be (sleep mode), so that's why voltage drops are useful clues.
I hope that helps! Good luck : )
@@L35inColorado Cool, I never heard of doing that before! I will give it a try.
@@L35inColorado One comment about the call module in the 03 to 05 ML. These do not have fiber connection. The connections you refer to are not fiber but coaxial cable connections. That is why your radio still worked.
@@GotaGetaGoing No, they are fiber optic connectors. The call module is part the "MOST" (Media Oriented Systems Transport) fiber optic (FO) loop, and the connection on the large connector shown at 22:35 are FO connectors.
The antenna cable is a coaxial cable, though.
My best guess about the purpose of the FO loop is for the amplifier, so I think (don't know for sure) that the amp was disconnected when that FO loop was open, so the radio worked but without the amp -- but again, I'm not sure and I don't hear well enough to notice the difference.
But I can confirm that that those connections are FO connections, as they are called out in the wiring diagram as such, and the FO handling "warning" precaution is outlined in the WIS when disconnecting that connector. So, if you need to completely remove the call module and wish to close that FO loop, you'd want to put your loop connector across those cables.
I hope that helps! Good luck : )
@@L35inColorado There are teleaid modules that have the Fiber loop connection but not the one you show which is exactly like mine. Here is one on ebay that does have the fiber connection: ebay.us/hrnr6p
You can see it is different. They say it fits a 2005 but that is not correct.
Fiber connections are always separate from electrical connections. Never included in a wiring harness.
The easiest fiber connection to get to is on the CD changer. It is a fat right angle plug like the one in the eBay link above. Fiber always plugs separately from electrical connections in the W163.
WARNING DO yourself a huge favor . Get rid of that cheep harbor freight meter . they are very inaccurate .. I know from using them in the past . They almost cost me a few thousand dollars from giving me wrong readings. Hope this helps someone .
Thanks for the tip - I do have a better DMM, and I would recommend to anyone who can, to budget in a good DMM, so I agree with your point. However, I tend to use the cheap Harbor Freight DMMs in my videos because I know that that meter is by far the most popular meter for DIYers (because its cheap and easy to get), and so that is what most people are using for their troubleshooting.
I have had several of them over the years, and I still have several from when HF used to give them as the "free gift" years ago! Personally, I haven't had much trouble with them, and the readings have been consistent even compared to high end (ie, Fluke) DMM's, if used properly.
I know that sometimes people forget to switch the jack/terminal (COM/Grd/Current) to the correct jack/terminal for the application, or forget to adjust the dial to the correction setting, and as a result they end up accidentally cooking the meter without knowing it, since the cheaper meters don't have internal protections from such mistakes (even higher end meters don't for most of those jack mistakes).
I think accidentally leaving the dial on resistance while attempting to check voltage is probably the most common mistake that cooks the Harbor Freight meter, since most automotive DIYers are only using the meter to check resistance or voltage; they grab it to check battery voltage without realizing that the dial is set to resistance/Ohms. The other big mistake is intending to check resistance, but not verifying that the component is isolated, and so accidentally checking "resistance" on a live circuit.
For these reasons, I always try to show the proper dial setting and terminal/jack connection. But yes, I do agree with your point - it is never a bad idea to buy a better DMM, for anyone who's in the position to do that, and the more you use a meter, the more you'll like a better meter. Thanks for watching : )
why do you speak so quietly? are you afraid of someone hearing it?