Weight Placement Drag Racing NoPrep and Prep
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2022
- Weight Placement Drag Racing NoPrep and Prep discusses the dynamics of placing weight to help influence the center of gravity and promote weight transfer or stop unwanted wheelstands.
Samson Performance of Sam's Alignment in North Charleston, SC:
Get with us at our shop to let us help you scale your car and do a complete plot of your car as it is today and then we can discuss what changes, if any, we would recommend. We do drag car chassis tuning, chassis setup and ensure the suspension is setup for the best drag racing launches possible! We also offer online remote services from our website below:
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Drag Racing Weight Transfer:
• Drag Race Weight Transfer
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Must have Digital Level and Angle Gauge
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Finding Center of Gravity Height:
bit.ly/2Y2IikU or brakepower.com/center-of-grav...
#suspension #dragracing #noprep #streetrace #samsonperformance #kevinwilsonsbc #antisquat #smalltire #bigtires #chassistuning #4link - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
No matter how many books I have bought on how to hook, drag racing, etc... to understand how to setup the car, your videos are the light I needed to understand things dynamically.
Thanks a lot Kevin, you do a great job!!!!
Wow!! That is a big compliment, Gear Head! I appreciate that so much and am humbled by it. Thanks for taking the time to leave this comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks Kevin. I’m a long time motorcycle dirt track racer,not Mx, . Now retired from that and working on cars for a hobby. I am collecting parts for a drag car and all of this information is an absolute gold mine for me. Thanks and keep it coming. Randy
Hey the way you explain everything is really good I understand I drove a dragster for a long time I’m 63 years old but I’m hanging out with a bunch of kids in the 30s i’ve been going to all these no prep races. I have tons of experience at the track, but I know nothing about suspension. I watching all your videos the last couple of weeks picking it up. Thanks.
I found this video at a perfect time, since we are starting to faster I had to install a chute. That forced me to remove the battery. After watching this video I'm gonna need to find the perfect place to mount that battery. Keep up the good work. Great content
I’m sure everyone watching are very thankful for all the information your teaching us. Love all your videos keep them coming Kevin
Thank you for helping all of us trying to get our cars to work instead of burning tires.
Amen to that... these slicks are not cheap!! LOL. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I was not clear in the video about the butt hurt bar discussion. *Yes, Beater Bombs was stationary on the very end.* I have a subscriber who has fabricated a variation of this but the weight starts closer to the rear and slides on the hit. The general thought was to help overcome the polar moment of inertia, then move further back on the hit once the weight transfer is started. To me, it seems like a deadly projectile if the fabrication was the fail. If I can get his express permission I will share some pics, but I really think most events will not allow this type of "butt hurt" setup.
For now I have cut out the Butt Hurt bar portion to avoid confusion.
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
What about if it's an awd car
What would the weight distribuition be
@@emmanuelmolina3806 Sorry, I just do not have any relevant no prep experience or prep experience with an AWD car. Just being honest. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
These videos are my tech library. Thank you for your time.
Thanks for another great video you do a great job explaining things in a way that less experienced people u derstand how what their car is doing and how yo improve it. Keep up the great work
Thanks so much, ChevyMustang1!! I appreciate you taking the time to leave this comment and I am very humbled by it. I will keep getting out content and working to share with you! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Another great video Kevin! Taken all together you are creating a user's guide for No Prep!
Good point... the No prep playlist is getting some good stuff in it for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great videos Kevin, you help us a lot. thanks!!!
Thanks for sharing, keep the style you have. You are clear and articulate. The content is excellent.
I appreciate that and thank-you for dropping a comment!! I will keep the content coming! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!!! Keep em coming....
Great information and very helpful. Thank you Kevin
Thanks for sharing your knowledge !!! i learn something every time I watch !! Good stuff for every level of racing !!
More to come and thanks for commenting!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks Kevin again for all your great vids. I was just getting ready to ask this question on weight for my Street no prep car I'm building. Perfect timing :)
Right on! Stay tuned and I will keep working on getting more content out! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great videos man, very informative! Thank you 🙏🏼
Awesome video. I wish there was more info like this for AWD cars
I love watching these Videos Kevin Wilson has made! Even for my 12 seconds flat budget drag car. All the tips have helped me put Big Time! Very knowledgeable man. Thanks alot!
Glad to help! Thanks so much for leaving this comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thank you Kevin. Glad I found your channel
Great to have you in the channel!!! Thanks Nick! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks for the video, also you do a great job breaking it down.
Good video that explains weight placement and transfer!!
Great video !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the great content Kevin
You are welcome!! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great stuff 👍
Awesome content! Thanks again for the videos
Thanks so much, Matt! I appreciate you being a subscriber to the channel and for leaving a comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks u so much for your videos I to my car from just a hobby to a top 10 contender every weekend all thanks to your time and videos
Great to hear! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Really enjoy all your videos whether they apply to my car or not.
Thanks so much! That means a lot to me! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
lots of great info this will take me a while to implement all of the good stuff. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Not a drag racer but just a newish fan who enjoys the geekier side of the sport. I love these videos, I sorta feel like I get to know what’s actually happening now. Making my way through the older vids too, interesting to see how little changes and differences make such a huge difference.
Thanks so much, Drew Gorman!! I appreciate you leaving this comment and for being a subscriber of the channel!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Another thing that helps with keeping the front end down is Starting Line Ratio. Weight of car, torque the motor makes, 1st gear ratio of the tranny and rearend gear ratio. A light car with a high torque motor doesnt need a lot of gear to get moving. I went from a 4:30 rear end gear to a 3:90 which helped keep my front end down but didnt hurt my ET, actually went a little quicker.
Thanks again for sharing! Very informative as always!
My pleasure! Thanks for all the support you give this channel!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Happy to help in even in a small way! I was just telling my cousin the other day that without your channel this suspension tuning stuff would be 10x more difficult!
Was looking for some info on some upcoming ridiculous stuff I’m doing, just wanted to say I always appreciate these videos
More content on the way, Matt! I enjoy your channel and keeping up with you guys!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC just wait til you see what stupid thing I did next. 🤣🤣 just know your weight transfer talk helped me decide
@@DNRAuto Just remember it is all about the entire combination of pieces working together. I am pretty sure I know where you are heading and I like it!! Keep me posted if you need anything! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Good video I've been one of the few to throw a bunch of weight in the rear on a street car for bad to no prep I usually shoot for 45 front 55 rear haven't hit it just yet but I have yet to put an aluminum block in the car
nice work kevin love that
Thanks 👍 and thank-you for commenting! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Awesome video thank u for sharing information.
Thanks for watching and your welcome! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Awesome
Thanks Kevin!
You are welcome!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
GREAT stuff!
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for commenting! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
The best video
Thanks again !
Thank you too! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great info
Thank you for your knowledge 💪🏽 USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
Great video Kevin I'm building a 99 s10 hard tire thanks for the info
Right on! Glad it helped and I am sure the s10 will be fun! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thank a learned a lot
So glad it helped! Each car can be unique, but the overall approaches don't differ too much. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I like that your touching more on no prep/street truck stuff
Thanks for leaving a comment and the no prep/street stuff is fun and requires some serious out of the box thinking! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Good video Kevin! How bout addressing the tire selection and how it affects the grip before adding or moving weight around. I have small tire cars running 28/10.5 radials.
Yes.. good point. I tried to cover that part I think in part 1 video of no prep... I will double check on that. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
What is a good crank center line height for tree side no prep and back of the track trying to find something will work OK with both
i sold my race car on no limit 2 because i cant go faster than 3.94 im watching your channel to get some tips to better understand how to set up a drag car and its helping
Thank-you, Josh!! I appreciate you watching the videos!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
So if you add weight let’s say to the very back of the car. If the car was to lose control. Would the weight being farther away from the axle make it more unstable and body roll? Or am I overthinking weight placement.? Thank u
Kevin another great video, I always had a problem correlating polar inertia to drag racing and you help me understand it with this video.... Could you get into engine placement set back and height... I was interested in the comment you made about adding weight to the rear end ... Dave Morgan talked about this in one of the old video seminar tapes that I have and how not having enough weight on the rear end can over power the shocks His quote was the rear end is in charge... I assume like bumps in the track, or extreme cases tire shake Also a question on the SRC garage the Dad talks about how putting a cross brace behind transmission from inner frame rail to inner frame rail helped... I'm trying to figure that out is it due to frame flex and would boxing the frame help any?
Thanks so much, Shawn! The cross brace helps eliminate the frame flex and boxing the frame would absolutely help. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
When building From scratch not knowing the centre of gravity, and placing things in the car that would usually be there. Is it down to educated guessing for correct placement For the most common track the car will
Be used on, ie full prep
Thank you so much for this video.I have a c4 1996 corvette that i am desperatly trying to get to hook , your awesome !! Thankyou. Please any words or help please send to me.
Great video . The but hurt bar isn't sliding weight but holding 25 to 75 up high to get 60 percent on the rear .
Yes, Beater Bombs was stationary on the very end. I have a subscriber who has fabricated a variation of this but the weight starts closer to the rear and slides on the hit. The general thought was to help overcome the polar moment of inertia, then move further back on the hit once the weight transfer is started. To me, it seems like a deadly projectile if the fabrication was the fail. If I can get his express permission I will share some pics, but I really think most events will not allow this type of "butt hurt" setup. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Would love to talk to you regarding drag race ladder bar set up. Prepped track, tube chassis ladder bar. I am 52 rear 48 front. Bracket racer on a prepped surface. Thanks
Hi, im on leaf springs, and radial tyres, i have moved my fuel cell farr back in the bed(79model toyota pickup) and found it didnt make much difference, my question is if i moved the weight right above the leafspring mounts to chassis(front section) and where caltracs pivot is, will this help force more traction down as the leafs and caltracs really fighting to lift the weight right above? Hope this all makes sense thanks would love your input
Great video Kevin! One question, for small tire (28x10.5) slick car on a preped surface, what weight % am I looking for ish? car is 3450 with me in it.
I still want 46-50% on the rear.... Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Im right at 45% on the rear...
👍👍
Another great video and your art work is getting better and better you have helped me so much I’ve been building an S-10 I need to weigh the truck to find the center of it I don’t know anyone with scale’s maybe you can help me out with that Thanks again for your Great Video’s
Thanks, Kevin, and LOL on the artwork... I enjoy the chalkboard and you guys are patient with my drawings. LOL! Without scales, you can try to find a truck similar to yours to at least get a reference point. I can dig through some of my chassis plots to see what I come up, but definitely search out others with S-10 trucks similar to your build and see if you can get them to share some of that data with you. Not sure of your location, but you may be able to find a shop that is willing to scale your truck for a reasonable price also. Scaling is the best way, of course, but you can still get creative. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thanks Again Kevin
How do you find the sweet spot for the front weight% getting the car out of a hole , but not unloading down track..
Making educated changes and testing.. no magic formula. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great video!!!! You had mention about you would like to see 6" of travel on front of a no prep car. How much would be a good starting point for a prep car?
Thanks, Jim! For a prep car, we generally end up limiting the front end or use a shock with some extremely tight rebound valving. For a prep car, I would still like to see 4 - 5" of front end travel, then "limit" it as needed. It is much easier to limit travel than to grow the travel. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thank you sir for getting back with me!!!! This will help for sure!!!! God Bless!!!!
Kevin, starting to get the car setup for prep or bracket racing. How much weight do you like to see on the front and the rear? This is a small tire car ( 28x10.5 ) This is also a leaf spring car too.
I am very interested to know what you think of adding more weight in the rear of a car that has too much power and no rear grip. I have a 2019 Camaro ZL1 and it honestly feels like if I had around 400lbs in the rear trunk, the grip off the line would be so much better. I really think the amount of time you lose not being about to use ALL the power off the line is as much or close to the same amount of time lost by adding all that weight. At least when it comes to do the 1/4 mile and nothing more. Any response is appreciated, this has been something I have been wondering about since I got my car.
There is absolutely times where you need to add rear weight... the surface, the tires, the HP/TQ and so many things will dictate that in the moment. Also adding sprung weight vs unsprung weight matters. Power management these days is way more crucial than many believe, especially in the street/no-prep world. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Can you explain engine placement where you move the engine far back to help with transfer weight.....could you explain how much percentage of weight you would get on the Rear of the car by doing this????
This was a very helpful video thanks.
There is not a fast answer on this, but it makes a big difference on many aspects of the weight bias and suspension behavior. Each car is different but reducing the midplate to rear end difference is worth a good bit. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Could you talk about weight during scaling Should we care about side to side? Should Rt rear be the same or less than Lt rear? should Rt front be more than Lt front?
I will definitely get a video out to cover this... getting more and more questions. Stay Tuned! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I got a question, if you look on my channel you'll see my 4th gen Z28 it is a 6-speed car. Car has been lowered but it will not transfer whatsoever and I feel like it's because it's been lower but what blows my mind is I've seen cars that have been lowered transfer like crazy. What do I need to do
how about front wheel drive honda sir
Just a thought I've had re the front /rear weight ratio, in drag racing where the ideal setup would have the front wheels just skimming the ground, I don't think the weight ratio is the right ball to keep our eyes on, I think it is the distance of the CG from the rear axle. In other words, the ideal distance of the CG from the rear axle would be similar for two similar cars with different wheel bases where the ideal front to rear balance would change quite a bit.
Good point! I do believe as the distance of the CG to the rear axle decreases, this usually equates to having more weight on the rear vs the front. I agree with your comment, but for many, doing a quick scale check is needed to understand the CG of locations front to rear. When adding weight to the rear, you are effectively moving the CG closer to the rear. Good comment!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
What would u suggest for a rwd 3800lb 500hp turbo car? I'm having trouble putting any power down in 1-2 gear
My apologies, but I would need a ton more info on the setup. www.samsonperformance.com/store/p1/RemoteSuspensionTuning.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@KevinWilson with my monza having such a short wheel base and the center of the Sbc being in line with the front axle center line would I still want to keep the engine low to help prevent wheelies? I have all trick performance adjustable bar brackets on rear end housing and frame and on the chaise for the upper bars I use g body four link design. Or have the engine up high and my turbo down low ? I don’t think I could ever get it 50/50 as the fuel cell radiator and transmission cooler is all I can put in the rear.
My wheel base is 97 inches. Car is still in the building process. If it be best I could make two set of mounts to have the engine high or low if needed or two hot sides and cold side if it will truly be the best to do. My front travel is 9” btw
I would need a bunch more info on your setup. Each car is unique. Many cars cannot get to 50/50 without adding weight, and some shorter wheelbase cars don't need to add any weight at all, but you will need to test and make changes based on your car's needs. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC what info do you need? im still building so cant test yet. but if i could not have to go back and cut apart and do it different a second time id like to avoid that.
@@turbomonza1561 I would encourage you to checkout my services at samsonperformance.com/services.html and read the description of the Full Remote. However, that service is not really meant for chassis design and fabrication which is much more detailed. Shoot me an email from the website if you would like me to put together a service to help you with the fabrication part. I am just not able to do that level of detail over TH-cam comments. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
In my S10 about the only place I have to mount 40 lbs is under the rear frame rail, it is about 2" below the bottom of the tailgate. Currently my scales show this: LF-846 / RF- 800. LR-652 / RR-654 - Left 50.7%, CR-49.2% and rear is 44.2%. 2952 lbs total, race ready with driver in. Those weights are with 3- flats preload on right top bar (4-link) and one turn longer on right Anti-roll bar. Still pretty light in the rear but do you think this is a good starting point. BTW- Enjoy your tech sessions in Facebook.
Start with that and test and see how it responds... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
The best way to put weight far back and it still be legal is to put weight in the wing or you could use very heavy material to make the wing.......it's little bit like having a butt hurt wing.....lol
Beater bomb always good. B.H.B. in any form will hurt someone. My 2ct
My question; typical street car 3700# 800hp, Hoosier, any make, aprox 115 wheelbase.
Weight set at roofline on back hoop of rollbar passanger side. What's the assumed effects AFTER launch say 100' out??? Would it still hold more to the side it's on? Would it be more like 80% the side its mounted to , and 20% drivers? Kinda see what I asking?
Interesting question, Dunecoones! With the natural tendency of chassis "twist" on the hit and under hard acceleration, you are generally moving more weight to the right rear. Of course, we can only answer your question by analyzing data logs around shock sensors. With that in mind and our real inability to weigh a car in motion, we can estimate static weight placement on the top passenger side at the roofline, will maintain weight on the passenger side and likely even increase the load impacts on the passenger side under heavy acceleration.
Of course, this can be a deep rabbit hole. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Can you discuss corner weights.
Sorry, but can you give me more on what you want to discuss with corner weights? Preload? Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
How does the weight placement differ in a car that separates vs a car that squats?
In general the weight placement is an aid to solve an issue rather it squats or separates. I prefer no added weight, but if I have to use it help correct an issue, then I will. So with the principles discussed in the video, the placement of the weight will dictate the issue I am trying to solve and/or help. Hope that makes sense. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
In no prep I found that the more angle on your cal tracks the better. The back of my cal tracks sit 2.5 inches from the ground. The front sit as high as possible. Keep in mind the more spring weight you put In the back the more your cal tracks will flatten out. I keep 240lb in the back of my 600hp no prep s10.
I found that my nitrous on a button works best. Cheapo timers arnt worth it.
I also copied src s10 front suspention mods. 6" of travel it makes for lots of toe in! Next season I would like to compair 60' times while changing front suspention travel. I would also like to place my weight up higher.
Great info and thanks for commenting, Bill! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
A stock car buddy of mine told me a general rule of thumb they use is to keep the ballast between the wheelbase. I took his advice and moved my 240 lb of ballast up against the cab instead of the tailgate of my s10. This made a tremendous difference and took almost 3/10 of a second off my 60 ft.
What do you think of Big Chief getting a C3 because of the 51% stock weight distribution? Is he going to he in for a big surprise when he has little adjustment in the short ladder bars or use a toms / dragvette IRS? Ever deal with classes with stock frames and how would you deal with a c3?
I'm also interested in this.
@@cjevans3925able I want to find out where he is racing it. He said it's a class that looks like mine could race in. I got a internal balanced forged 406 with spray
This is a great question!!! I actually this C3 set up with the shorter ladder bars and some good adjustments up and down to influence the Percentage of Rise will work pretty well! th-cam.com/video/mmjieeSov4Q/w-d-xo.html
I just had a 68 vette in the shop last weekend and took some time to confirm what chief is saying. Now this was a numbers matching 68 SBC with 4 speed and all stock front and rear suspension, no back half with ladder bars. The back of the block to the rear axle center lines was 69.5"!! I then measured from the stock axle centerlines forward 32" to simulate some standard ladder bars. At 32" it would place the mount point under the seats! His challenge will be getting all the travel he can get on the front suspension, but this stock 68 showed me a solid 5" of travel, but I think it can give more travel with some simple work.
We do a bunch of the rear suspension work on the C3 vettes as not many, if any at all, shops in our area will touch them. With the proper springs, camber and toe, we can make the C3 IRS work pretty freaking well on the streets. I need to do a video on this the next time we have a C3 in the shop.
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks. I think I'll stick with the IRS for a while.
@@DiscoGreen The IRS will work with the right parts and set up for sure to an extent of HP and TQ. We have generally left the IRS on the C3s around 600 HP and up. Doesn't mean there are not success stories with more HP/TQ, but just sharing our experiences. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
no prep drag racing small tire
hey all ive got a question for you all.. on a drag racing car why do most people add weight as high up and as far back as possible? the most radical can seen on the beater bombs butt hurt bar.
i ve been wondering why they dont add the weight to the rear axil itself... so that the tires see all of the weight -vs- adding all of the weight on top of the chassis.
lets say that i need to add 550 lbs to get the car to a 60% rear wright bias for a back of the track 10x28 race.
my front of the track setup i have a 4 link with short bars 95lb springs with double adjustable shocks with 0 added wieght my 60 ft time averages 1.15 sec on a glued track like enis tx .
now that i have 550 lbs my car now sits way too low in the back so nowi must replace my rear springs with 200 lb ......
since i want to add to my rear axil other than tire presssure i keep my font side setup .............
weight please explaine
will this work any better , any worse , it dosent matter .....
Lot going on in your comment above... it is all about getting the transfer happing as fast as possible with leverage. I would consider splitting up the 550 lbs b/w sprung weight and unsprung weight and do some testing. Test, test, test and document each change. Not all weight added has to be sitting on the springs which is sprung weight. Put some unsprung weight on the rear so you are not killing the coilover springs. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Like the video, only problem I have is I’m color blind, color dots look so much alike 🤓🤓
Thanks for telling me that! I will have to be more clear on that... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Whats a butthurt bar?
See the long bar and weight on the rear of the mustang on this pic: drive.google.com/file/d/1X3tLg81QgN9dOrv2IIl4Hdf4LjToJ6mg/view?usp=sharing and this video: th-cam.com/video/fAhwLE2Bw1M/w-d-xo.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great video Kev. although I think your numbers are on the conservative side.
I will always start conservative as so many people try to take these talks as literal. My goal is to provide suspension and chassis education, then let the driver make educated decisions. I do agree with you 100% though, but wanted to share why I am so conservative. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I tottally understand. I guess I was just trying to be subtle and not undermind your great content.
There are small tire guys out there winning carrying huge loads in the rear: 5-600 pounds and 55% rear weight bias. Even big tire guys running 54% rear bias on the street is not novel.
From my perspective mph is climbing much faster than 60 foot times are dropping so more is being found on the big end and thats why I think there has been a continued rearward weight shift to chase down track performance. Although I am surprised we dont see more "ricer" style wings...
Sorry for the shit sandwich, awesome content Kev.
Guess billy the kid should lift his engine up then
The old man actually talks in one of his videos several month ago about this on the S10. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I disagree on your claim that the center of gravity moves when you launch a car, at least unless you're looking at fluid slosh or other parts that're moving from one place to another (which is something, but pretty minimal). I agree that acceleration moves the load from the front tires to the rear, but it doesn't move the center of gravity.
I'd add that front to rear determines static weight distribution (what you have right at the hit), while height contributes more to dynamic weight distribution - the higher it is, the more weight transfers, although as you said it may be slower due to polar moment.
As an example, weight very low and rear will absolutely help on the hit but won't contribute as much to wheelies.
Of course, in order for load transfer to happen, you need enough grip to begin with, so too high/forward might not work great.
Thanks for commenting! We don't have to agree for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
One more thought is driver seat placement
Yes, the driver seat placement plays a big role... the further back the more you can move weight to the rear. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Subtítulos please in spanish . Hug !
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We used to use a 40/60 weight distribution 40% to the rear and 60% to the front and we raced prepped and no prepped tracks with our car and did great, race cars should only squat for about 20 feet or so, I launched on my wheelie bars every time I ever launched my car but that’s why you set your wheelie bars at 4 inch’s so the wheelie is small and doesn’t affect the race and I only ran 14 inch slicks, my car weighed 1900lbs the reason these guys need so much weight at the back is they don’t know how to do a burnout correctly and properly heat the tires, if your pulling wheelies just add bars don’t use one of those stupid wheelie control sensors that’s pulls power once you hit a certain ride height, you know back in the 60’s top fuel dragster we’re running on old 4 lane roads that weren’t prepped and there were doing 200mph, drag radials are another issue they don’t heat up good enough and they don’t launch as good as bias ply tires they suck back especially when you pair them with Goodyear eagle bias ply tires you can’t mix the tires like that you can have radials on the front and bias on the back and be fine but if your running bias fronts you have to run bias rear tires or your gonna get wild, these guys only run 1.5 gallon fuel cells, a dead hook is what you want you don’t want to be slipping leaving the line you not to bright about building cars
Thanks for taking the time to comment. While we can agree to disagree on some of your points, I still appreciate you sharing your thoughts! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!