Good move. It gets nuts trying to answer every question directly - doing that in content as a topic ultimately is what works. Love this channel, as I have learned a few things, and time is well spent.
Thank you for the knowledge you openly spread, excited to hit the track this season and more importantly your video on carnivore was my inspiration at trying it. 4 months in and I've never felt better.
Great information. I have been playing around with my ladder bar car and a a few friend/local racer 4 link car all on slicks bracket racing prep. Haven’t had much luck with longer instant centers (greater than say 40 inches) or with anything that squats or is near neutral. When people ask me for advice I tell them to set their 4 link up similar to my 32 inch ladder bar car which is set up at about 150 percent AS. Once their cars start separating a little their 60 foots improve and tire spin down track lessens. This is on mostly 3000 pound bracket cars 900-1100 hp range. Most people have decent double adjustable rear shocks now.
New subscriber here. Thanks and all for this for this priceless information BUT… holy cow man you don’t even look like the same guy from the video 3 years ago!! Congrats on getting healthy
More awesome well thought out practical advice here . To me followin this stuff separates the men from the boys . Perhaps alot of info to take in . Perhaps alot of effort and diligence to actually follow through on it but the knowledge is so powerful !
Awesome video! Your style of presentation is super easy to understand. You mentioned the mounting point spread at the axle, but do you have any insight to the distance from axle centerline to the upper and lower mounting points? Usually the upper mounting point is closer to axle centerline and the lower is further away. Is that usually a space constraint? Or is there a leverage effect being taken advantage of?
At 25:09 of the outro, you can see the driver rear tire do "something." It leaves a bit of a different tire track right there. I'm wondering what that was? A seam in the drag strip maybe?
Good eye! That was a radial prepped track and I was on a big tire slick... the slicks were not totally happy and chattering just a bit, but I was able to drive through it. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
I got a 72nova with a good ol twin turbo dart ls. Im on 1 inch drop calvert leaf springs with sliders and a 275 pro drag radial. My question is Should i use the blocks I got and lower it another 2 inches or will that hurt performance via weight transfer or something like that. Like what should I be going for here like a lower front end than the rear or overall leveled out i seen some leaf spring radial cars low and leveled work great and I see some guys have the front end sit lower than the rear
Kevin, if you see this i'm just curious of what you think is safe inner tire to leaf spring clearance? I just got my '62 plymouth together and have bout 3/8" between the tire and leafs (10.5x30 ET streets) I'm not sure how much side to side movement there is in a sidewall..
So if I was a no prep/ street with a 28x10.5 Hoosier co7 tubeless. Would I lean more to a radial style set up? By radial style I mean more than 100% aintsquat, a shorter ic, and more spread on the bars at the rearend?
There is a bunch more to all of this, but for starting out I would go with the slick setup first then test, then make educated changes. You will have to make changes depending on your weight bias, front end travel, power management, etc... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
My apologies, but my health situation and job have made this nearly impossible. I hope to resume those by the end of July. I really appreciate you and your patience. Thanks! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Good move. It gets nuts trying to answer every question directly - doing that in content as a topic ultimately is what works. Love this channel, as I have learned a few things, and time is well spent.
Very helpful info. Been catching up on all your vids last few months. Appreciate the help!!
Thank you for the knowledge you openly spread, excited to hit the track this season and more importantly your video on carnivore was my inspiration at trying it. 4 months in and I've never felt better.
Great information. I have been playing around with my ladder bar car and a a few friend/local racer 4 link car all on slicks bracket racing prep. Haven’t had much luck with longer instant centers (greater than say 40 inches) or with anything that squats or is near neutral. When people ask me for advice I tell them to set their 4 link up similar to my 32 inch ladder bar car which is set up at about 150 percent AS. Once their cars start separating a little their 60 foots improve and tire spin down track lessens. This is on mostly 3000 pound bracket cars 900-1100 hp range. Most people have decent double adjustable rear shocks now.
I really enjoy your videos I tend to watch them multiple times to get as much information out of them as I can Thank you !
New subscriber here. Thanks and all for this for this priceless information BUT… holy cow man you don’t even look like the same guy from the video 3 years ago!! Congrats on getting healthy
Thanks so much!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
good advise
I found u again. Glad u healthier.
Welcome back! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
What about the new Viking Biserker double adjustable shocks? These do have more aggressive valving.
Great video anyone can understand this 2:28
Thanks, Dad! Love you! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Thanks so much for sharing ur knowledge, ive learned so much about what i love.
Had no idea you were at Orangeburg yesterday
I was not... I wish I was, but it wasn't me. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Thanks for sharing.great info
More awesome well thought out practical advice here .
To me followin this stuff separates the men from the boys . Perhaps alot of info to take in . Perhaps alot of effort and diligence to actually follow through on it but the knowledge is so powerful !
Awesome video! Your style of presentation is super easy to understand.
You mentioned the mounting point spread at the axle, but do you have any insight to the distance from axle centerline to the upper and lower mounting points?
Usually the upper mounting point is closer to axle centerline and the lower is further away.
Is that usually a space constraint? Or is there a leverage effect being taken advantage of?
At 25:09 of the outro, you can see the driver rear tire do "something." It leaves a bit of a different tire track right there. I'm wondering what that was? A seam in the drag strip maybe?
Good eye! That was a radial prepped track and I was on a big tire slick... the slicks were not totally happy and chattering just a bit, but I was able to drive through it. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Gotcha. Thanks!
I got a 72nova with a good ol twin turbo dart ls. Im on 1 inch drop calvert leaf springs with sliders and a 275 pro drag radial. My question is Should i use the blocks I got and lower it another 2 inches or will that hurt performance via weight transfer or something like that. Like what should I be going for here like a lower front end than the rear or overall leveled out i seen some leaf spring radial cars low and leveled work great and I see some guys have the front end sit lower than the rear
Kevin, if you see this i'm just curious of what you think is safe inner tire to leaf spring clearance? I just got my '62 plymouth together and have bout 3/8" between the tire and leafs (10.5x30 ET streets) I'm not sure how much side to side movement there is in a sidewall..
Hello Mr. Wilson. What do you think of the tunnel ram blower manifold now that you have installed it and had it awhile? Thank you
Love it!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC - Thank you! C.G. from Juneau, AK
What about a big block tread like Mt sportsman pro. Which setup direction would you lean towards on a prepped track.
Slick is where I would start but it will need some tweaking depending on many factors. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Thanks for the info Kevin! Any thoughts on Zoom meetings for members in the future?
In my livestream software you can join me with just a browser and internet. You game for that? It would be fun!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
So if I was a no prep/ street with a 28x10.5 Hoosier co7 tubeless. Would I lean more to a radial style set up? By radial style I mean more than 100% aintsquat, a shorter ic, and more spread on the bars at the rearend?
There is a bunch more to all of this, but for starting out I would go with the slick setup first then test, then make educated changes. You will have to make changes depending on your weight bias, front end travel, power management, etc... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Not sure if ive been missing member lives?
My apologies, but my health situation and job have made this nearly impossible. I hope to resume those by the end of July. I really appreciate you and your patience. Thanks! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
What did app did you use for the drawing?
Performance Trends 4 link calculator - www.performancetrends.com/4link.htm
Hey kev, does this apply to triangular 4 link?
yes it does. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
So, when initially installing a 4 link, does all the links have to be collapsed or extended while attempting to triangulate and weld them in place?
Sorry, but that is much deeper than we can do on a comment. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC would you be opposed if we can email? I need help
What about 28x10.5 slicks?
Use the slick setup baseline as I discussed in the video. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
What software are you using?
Performance Trends 4 Link Calculator
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
lol. I have DD501 DAs on my car…
Been carnivore 3.5 yrs @71😊