I rarely comment on videos but this one was so well done and so informative I feel like I had to say great job. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge
By far the best channel I’ve ever seen at describing and explaining race stuff. Wish I had someone like you nearby to consult and talk to about race cars😂although I know absolutely nothing compared to you
Awesome video , I’ve ran caltracs for roughly 20 years on both my cars , very good informative video . Only thing is with mopars(which I run) you actually want to have a dimes worth of air gap on the front pivot . Mopars have a very short front segment on the spring and they don’t like a lot of preload , talking to John Calvert many years ago this is what he recommended , I run that airgap in a 9.90 5 spd duster .
Kitimatwinterhawks thanks so much for your comments about the short segment on the mopars! You got the 5 spd hauling some groceries for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Mopars dont need caltracs to work . I threw mine out and went back with factory as springs and my own bar set up I ran in the 70s . Car hooks as good if not better now .
@@darwinfoster7420I’ve seen a fair amount of this. I haven’t been involved so dk if they are messing up the pinion angle of getting the wrong spring rate or what, but see a lot of big winners go back to the stock mopar setups
I also found out once I put the Cal tracks on. The car could put a lot more power down out of the turns! Wasn't expecting that but the first time I took the car road racing it was amazing I could use twice the amount of power coming out of the turns without breaking the back end free!!! Bottom line is if you have a leaf spring car you have to have caltracs
Thank you for a great informative video on caltracs. I recently bought a 69 roadrunner already set up with the caltrac and split leaf springs. Again thank you for explaining how they work and how to adjust them
To add to what was stated about INITIAL Cal Trac setup, always have someone with reasonably equal weight sit in the driver's seat while adjusting, along with every other "weight" (fuel/etc) the same as if you were about to make a pass, and may as well have the tire pressures set as well. Also, a trans brake car (or one with a manual transmission) will be neutral on the starting line, but if you're foot braking an automatic either with or without a 2 step, I found my car liked the bars 1 to 3 flats LOOSE at static, because the moment you are staged and on the throttle, the housing is going to have some amount of load applied. Something you might want to experiment with if you are having issues.
I had mine so many years, back on the old 67 Camaro BBC... They didn't have sliders back then guess I need to upgrade... I'f one is looking for grip in low initial traction situations like street/no prep with radial tires....would a lighter rate allow more work to be done via movement? That is to say if everything was taken off the car but the leaf, would not a lower rate leaf allow the maximum body separation, the more inches of separation the more travel you can manipulate with rebound? Allowing one to not hit the tire as hard and in a way providing providing more travel to work with in a similar way to having more front end travel?
Theres actually a lot here I didn't know and some things ive only theorized in my head about. All the installation videos ive seen rarely talk about preloading, they usually stop after the ride height, dime gap. If i continue to build my 75 nova ill be doing the caltracs. I was not aware of the importance of the rear sliders. Thanks for the info
I am in the process of setting up my 64 Plymouth with Caltracs and Split Mono Leafs, You really have taken the mystery out of this set up. Thank You for your time and video, It will be a massive help.
This came from my chassis guy: the top hole tends to work better for radials and the bottom hole tends to work better for bias ply. we run 275 radial pros and use the top hole.
Also don't forget about the Assassin bars. They give you a bit more adjustment, which yes can get some people in trouble, but the key thing we and others have found is that when you start putting big/more power down, the Caltracs tend to bend the leaf at the contact point where the Assassin's do not as the contact point is moved to the spring eye.
Dave67 thanks so much for your comments! The Assassin bars absolutely are good products! My bad for not including them in the video. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed the video. Your explanation was very easy to follow and should help take some of the fear of chassis tuning away. Good on ya for giving real tech and got yourself a subscriber! 👍
Fantastic education! Thank you very much. I have Caltacs on both my cars. One has single adjustable shocks and you are right - they don't work. The only way I can stock the wheelhop is setting them at full stiff 10. They are Rancho (Caltrac) shocks and it rides like a cement truck if I forget to put them back to 5. That car has way too much pinion angle. I can see the front of the yoke pointing down and what this does is make it hit the tire WAY too hard. I need to cut the perches off and start over or use pinion angle wedge shims.
I would love to see you do a slapper bar vs Caltrac video, you have talked about your dad starting out drag racing with home build slapper bars, lots of guys still run them, I need somebody to convince me that Caltracs will be better than slapper bars and why.
Kevin I got the CalTrac bars set up on the S-10. Running a well tuned stock LT-1. Wheel hop was so bad I nearly busted the wind shield. Also installed the split mono leaf springs. I bought some Toyo Proxos R888R Dot Radials and a mini spool DAY AND NIGHT DIFFERENCE!!! The bar was nearly parallel so I moved to the top hole to get some angle to increase bite. light rear end. Need DA shocks but don’t how to order. I’m thinking the QA1 shocks. Just running stock shocks. And they have a lot of rebound but no compression. Thanks for the very informative videos. Outstanding!, Andy
Andy Jones thanks so much for your comments and info on your S-10! Give QA1 a call at 952.985.5675 and give them your S-10 info and they can get you the part number you need for the double adjustable shocks if you have all the stock mounting locations still in place. Calvert Racing at 661-728-9600 wold also be a good place to start. Keep me posted! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Only one bit of information for you. If you have any kind of power and torque. With the caltracs you will be looking at stars. Ripped the bumper off my 72 Nova at the track.
Thank you very much. I am new to drag racing (had tons of fast cars). I have a '72 Nova, 461bb, th400 w/ tb, 3.90 gears running 275 radial pros. Due to being new, I went to a pro to set the car up for me, but I know that in order to get the car to work on different surfaces, I'm going to need to know how, why and when to make adjustments. The car has caltracs, split mono w/ sliders, afco big gun DA's in the rear and menscer DA's up front. I consider the car slow (100mph 1/8 w/ bottom 1.5x 60s).Bar is in the top hole. But I'm using this year to learn as much as possible, because we've already started building a 582 for next year. I haven't touched the caltracs, the car goes straight. But I felt accomplished last time out because I made adjustments that worked immediately. The front extension was tight, not much lift, and the rear extension was loose, separating immediately causing the tire to grab, unload, spin, then grab again and go. I loosened the extension quite a bit and tightened the rear extension a little and my next two passes were my best 60s yet.
the idea is to maintain preload evenly on the wheels pushing down without bouncing, shocks do that. bite?, this bar.. essentially locks the rear end and only allows axle wrap, and twists the frame, especially with solid mounts.... simple geometry
How does moving the bar on a caltracs change the instant center? The instant center is the where the front of the spring is mounted. The only thing that bar does is leverage on the spring and keep it straight.
Kevin Wilson I thought if you don't have scales to adjust by corner weight, you are suppose to sit in the drivers seat and then preload the Caltracs evenly. I put an empty 351C bare block with caps in my drivers seat and a set of bare Cleveland 4v heads on the floor board in my 70 Cougar. I'm 230lbs so I figured that would be close enough weight to start with.
The main takeaway is to be consistent on how you check the preload. That establishes a baseline from which you can now make educated changes. Then test and evaluate. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
One of the fastest s10s on the street runs a stock leaf spring... and probably half your viewers I kno i do. Alot of people cant always afford new leaf springs.
Crider prepping channel CPC thanks so much for your comments! Absolutely understand and agree. On these videos I try to cover all the spectrums out there. We have had great success with stock leaf springs and removing some of the stiffer helper springs for sure. Budget is critical, trust me, I know. Thanks for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC hell yea I'm running stock leafs without the bottom two springs. I'm just now starting to get mine all figured out ran a 6.61 at 110. This video is a big help for me tho bud thank you
Regarding shocks on a split mono leaf/Cal Trac car, I've been running mine forever starting with stock shocks, moving up (or so I thought) to Koni SPA-1 drag shocks with reasonable success. (best of a 1.34 60' time) When the track is marginal, the 60' times go for crap, along with the round loss. (bracket car) Yesterday I was ordering parts for the Camaro and I started thinking about updating my rear shocks. I stumbled on full tight being what worked for me and never changed the setting, and when I stroked the shock yesterday I realized the extension is very tight, but compression is basically non existent. I think that explains why I had traction issues on marginal surfaces. It will load the tire initially, but won't maintain it since the shock has zero compression damping. I ordered a set of QA1 double adjustable stocker star shocks for the back with the intention this year of hitting the marginal street legal nights and test until this car will hook in the burnout box. I wish your video was around 10 or so years ago when I bought these Koni shocks, I would have known to spend double the money to buy the correct shocks instead. Cheers!
yarrdayarrdayarrda thanks so much for your comments! You are spot on with the rebound and compression valving needing to help keep control of the tire and suspension! Keep me posted on how it goes! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Snow on the ground for another couple of months so it will be a bit, but I have a new reason (the D/A shocks) to be excited for the new season. Going to focus less on the bracket events, more on the Friday night drags and actually tuning on the car. Thanks for the great informative videos!!
This video helped me understand a lot to how this whole thing works thank you ! I was completely off on my thinking lol… I’m Running a VAS traction bar kit on my truck the bar is on the hole closest to the leaf spring the bar looks parallel to ground Will lowering the bar below the differential (off setting it lower) work the same to adding more bite anti squating
You started to touch on a higher hole adjustment at the axle bracket. If you mount to a higher location at the rear bracket, I assume that will add even more squat?
Why do you need the back end of the spring to slide? What do you physically mean, when you say "you want the spring to work"? What are "flats" for preloading the springs? What is the antisquat line? Not sure how the floater ladder bar works... if the spring supports the weight of the car, how can the ladder bar transfer weight to the chassis
Kevin in reviewing the video of the first trip to the track I noticed the bed of the truck came up. If the old theory is right when the bed was coming up there was certainly pressure being applied down as well. As I mentioned in a previous comment the truck left great but still spun some. Of course we want to go faster. We are going to add power over the winter. Would double adjustable shocks keep the the bed from rising in order to put that pressure down on the tires? I moved the the cal trac bar to the top hole because the S-10 had the CT bar pointing downward to the front of the truck. I’m running the stock shocks but want to add the DA/QA1 shocks Thank you again for these outstanding videos. This shows your love of the sport and willingness to help others along the way!! Andy Jones
Andy Jones thanks so much for your comments! Absolutely get some Double Adjustable shocks Call Calvert Racing and let them help you get the shocks you need for your S-10. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
If it left good then spun that's where a double adjustable shock helps. You can add more compression to keep the tire planted. Also dont overlook adding more tire pressure. Most of the time low air pressure will hook initially, squat the tire, then bounce back up and spin the tires. Get DA shocks and add tire pressure to get rid of tire bounce. Great video btw Kevin.
Great video.. i'm putting caltracs on a 62 plymouth this weekend (and probably next weekend as i'm moving the springs a bit), The car is just gonna be for stoplight fun on the street, any issues with them on the street? Keeping shackles in the back, figured slider noise would be annoying.
So my main question is what is the difference between the Cal track system and running a rigid ladder bar instead of a pivoting Cal track system? To me the only difference is you’re not letting the pivot hit the leafspring to work off that it’s rigid to keep it from flexing to push the car forward correct
Just wondering is the squatline a line parallel to the bottom Caltrak bar was curious about where the other end of the line goes to is there a target on the chassis to aim for?
Joe Schmo thanks so much for your comments! Checkout the video I just released for Part 2 Leaf Springs. th-cam.com/video/WcA5xQGWpuY/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks Kevin, when do I need to run a panhard bar/wats linkage with floater / ladder bar? I notice most leaf springs are not parallel , is this enough to not require a panhard? thanks man
@@KevinWilsonSBC I watched a couple more of your videos and I really like the content on your channel. I found you yesterday and I subscribed and hit the bell so I don’t miss any of the videos that you upload. This is in my top three favorite channels and I look forward to catching up on your other videos because I’m relatively new to the drag racing scene. Until this build I never had an engine that put out over 350 horsepower. Not that this one is going to break records but it should be about 750-800 with a shot of giggle gas and that’s a lot of power to me right now and I don’t have anyone with a bunch of knowledge to help me out so I’m hoping to buy into one of your plans in the spring.
I encourage you to checkout this Playlist from my channel. It is full of most every video you can think of for drag racing suspension tuning, including scaling a car. th-cam.com/play/PLK2JQ7QIgx_JRQMKBZMkx_tu0W4MDUxZQ.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Camaro Drag Racing Second Generation thanks so much for your comments! We have actually ran some sliders that have some drop in them on the hit and they work great, so yes, good point! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
I really need to pick your brains. I’m just starting a build, a 55 Chevy Wagon and I’m wondering which direction to go in regards to rear suspension setup. If staying leaf spring I have to relocate them inboard to make room for a 10” tire and I figure at that point I may as well just go coil overs, also a ladder bar is appealing to me for it’s simplicity, I can easily fab up the mounts/crossmembers for both in my home garage. My dilemma is where should the front mounts for the ladder bars be height wise in relation to the axle centre line and should I also run an anti roll bar along with a panhard bar or watts linkage?
@@KevinWilsonSBC i definitely will. Thank you for replying. Plans have changed s little I sold the wagon and am going to look at a 48 Austin A40 sedan. I’ll email you with my plan.👍
Kevin, I need advice installing spring sliders on my 67 Camaro with Caltracs. How far apart? What angle? Where should the leaf eye bolt sit in the slider while car is at rest? There's not much info available for installing these properly. Thanks in advance.
At what point do you think all the fancy leafs and bars are needed? I run 6.50s 1/8 mile with stock leafs and slapper bars! Lol it 60ft 1.43-44s. pulls both fronts 6" and rides out
J Bevins thanks so much for your comments! If it ain't broke, don't fix it! We have had stock stuff and slapper bars in the 1.32 60' all day long. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Hi Kevin. I apologize if this is a silly question but I searched and didn’t quite see the answer. What is the main benefit of sliders over a stock type shackle? The way I see it they both allow for and aft movement of the spring eyelet, so I don’t quite understand why a slider is better. Is it because the slider doesn’t move on an arc like a shackle, or maybe because you’d be losing the rubber bushings? I’m currently working on a Dakota that will be running mono leafs and cal trac bars and your video got me wondering if I should look into the sliders. Appreciate all of the info you’ve been kind enough to share.
Jason Pipkin thanks so much for your comments and question! The main goal of the slider is to allow the spring to have smooth lateral movement as the suspension goes through its travel on the hit and eliminate the arc of the shackle type setup. Trying to put all the energy into launching the car and not have wasted motion and/or binding of the spring on suspension travel. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I have been watching your videos on leafsprings and was wondering what you might be gaining with adding a hole in the calvert spring plate under the leaf springs above the factory one they use? Just trying to get all the separation I can get and wanted to know since you spoke about it but didn't really say what it could do.
Generally the more uphile the caltrac bar is from the rear end going toward the chassis, the more you will help with separation of the chassis and pushing the rear end toward the track. If you flatten the bar getting it closer to level, the less upward tq being applied to push the chassis up and the more you are helping drive the chassis forward. However, the big factor is the location of the front spring mount and if you are allowing enough motion on the rear leaf spring mount. So if you are really wanting more separation, make sure the rear leaf spring mount is free to move and there is enough movement in the rear to allow for more separation. If the rear spring mount cannot move forward or forward and down more, then you are effectively done separating. This is really key hence all the focus on sliders or hangers that are canted back at ride height so you have more movement to allow the rear end and spring to continue down toward the track more. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
this is what i have been looking for in a video. i have been power watching your rear set ups for leaf springs, i have a full size F150 and the springs are over the rear housing. i have latter bars on it now and it hooks up very well, ( they are NOT mounted in a traditional manor, upside down and split mount.) my question is this, how would you make a latter bar work on this setup? would you use the slider in the same way on the spring?
Not sure I am following you exactly. Can you shoot me an email at samsalignmentsc@gmail.com so we can discuss more. Sounds like you have ladder bars now that are working well but you are wanting to know more about sliders regarding springs on top of axle. This will be easier over email and you provide pictures of your current setup. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Definetly checkout my additional videos on leaf springs. Start with this one next: th-cam.com/video/WcA5xQGWpuY/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Tom Smith thanks so much for your question and a good question! Many bars will have a hex head welded or manufactured in into the bar to allow using a wrench to turn the bar vs using pliers/channel locks. A Turnbuckle will most likely have a hex built in also. A hex head as 6 sides so generally 2 flats will be around 1/8 of a full turn. Hope this helps explain 1 to 2 flats of a turn. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
What if I'm running 3 inch lowering multi leaf springs from hotchkis can I still run a Caltracs set up or should I ditch them for a mono leaf spring ?? Awesome explanation. Subscribed!!
Moses Andres thanks so much for your comments and question! I have not ran the hotchkis leaf springs before so I would recommend you give them a call. I did check out their documentation and that don't really address the caltrac type setups. I am big fan of the mono leaf springs for full track use. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Kevin an I correct in understanding from your videos that if you were setting up a new car from scratch and had your choice of rear suspension types 4-link would be your #1 choice?
I haven’t build my shock mounts and got shocks on it but my Isuzu pickup the single leaf bows in the center with weight on it. Will getting my shocks added to the rear remedy that or do I need to look at getting some new leaf springs?
I encourage you to get the 4 corner weights and then talk with the leaf spring manufacturer. Installing shocks will not remedy that. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
This is the absolute best video I’ve ever seen on TH-cam as far as a performance video!!!!
Well done!!!
Andy Jones thanks so much for your comments and encouragement! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
You explained this the best I ever heard and I now have a better understanding than I ever have.
Hey Kevin man you did a great job of explaining leaf spring Caltracks....you make it sound so easy.
I rarely comment on videos but this one was so well done and so informative I feel like I had to say great job. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge
I appreciate that! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
😢😮😮😢😅😅😮😮ry6ť😮😮😢😮😮😮😮 2:46 😢😮vioujv9vovv8i🎉🎉😢😢is4454yyt4😂😢😢😮 2:46 😮
By far the best channel I’ve ever seen at describing and explaining race stuff. Wish I had someone like you nearby to consult and talk to about race cars😂although I know absolutely nothing compared to you
Awesome video , I’ve ran caltracs for roughly 20 years on both my cars , very good informative video . Only thing is with mopars(which I run) you actually want to have a dimes worth of air gap on the front pivot . Mopars have a very short front segment on the spring and they don’t like a lot of preload , talking to John Calvert many years ago this is what he recommended , I run that airgap in a 9.90 5 spd duster .
Kitimatwinterhawks thanks so much for your comments about the short segment on the mopars! You got the 5 spd hauling some groceries for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Mopars dont need caltracs to work . I threw mine out and went back with factory as springs and my own bar set up I ran in the 70s . Car hooks as good if not better now .
@@darwinfoster7420I’ve seen a fair amount of this. I haven’t been involved so dk if they are messing up the pinion angle of getting the wrong spring rate or what, but see a lot of big winners go back to the stock mopar setups
Love to hear a man that knows what he is talking about....
Many have tried, but your the first person who has made it make sense to me! Thanks dude! :)
Glad I could help! Thanks!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I also found out once I put the Cal tracks on. The car could put a lot more power down out of the turns! Wasn't expecting that but the first time I took the car road racing it was amazing I could use twice the amount of power coming out of the turns without breaking the back end free!!! Bottom line is if you have a leaf spring car you have to have caltracs
Teflon plated sliders are used in dirt racing they do great at not making noise
Jeremy Pike thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thank you for a great informative video on caltracs. I recently bought a 69 roadrunner already set up with the caltrac and split leaf springs. Again thank you for explaining how they work and how to adjust them
To add to what was stated about INITIAL Cal Trac setup, always have someone with reasonably equal weight sit in the driver's seat while adjusting, along with every other "weight" (fuel/etc) the same as if you were about to make a pass, and may as well have the tire pressures set as well.
Also, a trans brake car (or one with a manual transmission) will be neutral on the starting line, but if you're foot braking an automatic either with or without a 2 step, I found my car liked the bars 1 to 3 flats LOOSE at static, because the moment you are staged and on the throttle, the housing is going to have some amount of load applied. Something you might want to experiment with if you are having issues.
yarrdayarrdayarrda thanks so much for your comments! I agree 100%. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Been running caltracs for a few years they do work great when you get them set up sliders work better at 4/6 degree angle.
Camaro Drag Racing Second Generation thanks so much for your comments! Good advice snuck in there!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I had mine so many years, back on the old 67 Camaro BBC...
They didn't have sliders back then guess I need to upgrade...
I'f one is looking for grip in low initial traction situations like street/no prep with radial tires....would a lighter rate allow more work to be done via movement?
That is to say if everything was taken off the car but the leaf, would not a lower rate leaf allow the maximum body separation, the more inches of separation the more travel you can manipulate with rebound?
Allowing one to not hit the tire as hard and in a way providing providing more travel to work with in a similar way to having more front end travel?
Theres actually a lot here I didn't know and some things ive only theorized in my head about. All the installation videos ive seen rarely talk about preloading, they usually stop after the ride height, dime gap. If i continue to build my 75 nova ill be doing the caltracs. I was not aware of the importance of the rear sliders. Thanks for the info
Awesome ,I need more bite ,I smoke the tyre 2.5 turns lower hole now to try top hole.
Thank you this is awesome instruction video
I am in the process of setting up my 64 Plymouth with Caltracs and Split Mono Leafs, You really have taken the mystery out of this set up. Thank You for your time and video, It will be a massive help.
Scott Escobar thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
FANTASTIC.........You just answered all my questions, been having troubles with my launch....great stuff..thanks.
Lazy's Chevy V8 Racing Capri - Learn the mechanics thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I appreciate you sharing your wisdom with us. Thank you
MAN THAT WAS A GREAT EXPLANATION, THANKS
Mike Condoluci thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Thanks for sharing great info n ur knowledge to help us enjoy what we love Kevin
Thanks for answering what the top hole is good for! Next time I’m on sub par prep I’m moving up a hole. Trying to make these radials work every where
David Walker thanks so much for your comments and don't give up! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
This came from my chassis guy: the top hole tends to work better for radials and the bottom hole tends to work better for bias ply. we run 275 radial pros and use the top hole.
Also don't forget about the Assassin bars. They give you a bit more adjustment, which yes can get some people in trouble, but the key thing we and others have found is that when you start putting big/more power down, the Caltracs tend to bend the leaf at the contact point where the Assassin's do not as the contact point is moved to the spring eye.
Dave67 thanks so much for your comments! The Assassin bars absolutely are good products! My bad for not including them in the video. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed the video. Your explanation was very easy to follow and should help take some of the fear of chassis tuning away. Good on ya for giving real tech and got yourself a subscriber! 👍
Great video! Extremely educational and great presentation!
Fantastic education! Thank you very much. I have Caltacs on both my cars. One has single adjustable shocks and you are right - they don't work. The only way I can stock the wheelhop is setting them at full stiff 10. They are Rancho (Caltrac) shocks and it rides like a cement truck if I forget to put them back to 5. That car has way too much pinion angle. I can see the front of the yoke pointing down and what this does is make it hit the tire WAY too hard. I need to cut the perches off and start over or use pinion angle wedge shims.
Nice job Kevin. Very interesting information
Scott Nettell thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
I would love to see you do a slapper bar vs Caltrac video, you have talked about your dad starting out drag racing with home build slapper bars, lots of guys still run them, I need somebody to convince me that Caltracs will be better than slapper bars and why.
Great info! Best leaf spring suspension video I've seen.
I think it’s slowly sinking in. Thanks for all of these excellent explanations and examples.
Kevin
I got the CalTrac bars set up on the S-10. Running a well tuned stock LT-1. Wheel hop was so bad I nearly busted the wind shield. Also installed the split mono leaf springs. I bought some Toyo Proxos R888R Dot Radials and a mini spool DAY AND NIGHT DIFFERENCE!!!
The bar was nearly parallel so I moved to the top hole to get some angle to increase bite. light rear end. Need DA shocks but don’t how to order. I’m thinking the QA1 shocks. Just running stock shocks. And they have a lot of rebound but no compression.
Thanks for the very informative videos. Outstanding!,
Andy
Andy Jones thanks so much for your comments and info on your S-10! Give QA1 a call at 952.985.5675 and give them your S-10 info and they can get you the part number you need for the double adjustable shocks if you have all the stock mounting locations still in place. Calvert Racing at 661-728-9600 wold also be a good place to start. Keep me posted! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Sir all I can say is perfect. Now I know how they work and how to adjust off the hit with the front in the air.
Chris Bergeron thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Getting ready to switch from stock leafs to a mono leaf set up with caltracs, thanks for the info.
Todd Dunham thanks so much for your comments! Good move for sure!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Only one bit of information for you. If you have any kind of power and torque. With the caltracs you will be looking at stars. Ripped the bumper off my 72 Nova at the track.
@@jamespaul4731 will 530-550 horsepower to the rear wheel in a 80 Trans Am have me looking at the stars with the caltracs?
Love the way you describe things. Thanks very much.
Thank you very much. I am new to drag racing (had tons of fast cars). I have a '72 Nova, 461bb, th400 w/ tb, 3.90 gears running 275 radial pros. Due to being new, I went to a pro to set the car up for me, but I know that in order to get the car to work on different surfaces, I'm going to need to know how, why and when to make adjustments. The car has caltracs, split mono w/ sliders, afco big gun DA's in the rear and menscer DA's up front. I consider the car slow (100mph 1/8 w/ bottom 1.5x 60s).Bar is in the top hole. But I'm using this year to learn as much as possible, because we've already started building a 582 for next year. I haven't touched the caltracs, the car goes straight. But I felt accomplished last time out because I made adjustments that worked immediately. The front extension was tight, not much lift, and the rear extension was loose, separating immediately causing the tire to grab, unload, spin, then grab again and go. I loosened the extension quite a bit and tightened the rear extension a little and my next two passes were my best 60s yet.
Nice job!!! You got this! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Really appreciate the info.. hoping to get this s10 rolling soon
Awesome video boss. Thanks so much for your time and expertise on this subject. Greatly appreciated
My pleasure! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
the idea is to maintain preload evenly on the wheels pushing down without bouncing, shocks do that. bite?, this bar.. essentially locks the rear end and only allows axle wrap, and twists the frame, especially with solid mounts.... simple geometry
How does moving the bar on a caltracs change the instant center? The instant center is the where the front of the spring is mounted.
The only thing that bar does is leverage on the spring and keep it straight.
You should do a video on the assassin bars by smithcraft!!
Brock Gibson thanks so much for your comments! I will get a video out on them for sure. Thanks! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Kevin Wilson I thought if you don't have scales to adjust by corner weight, you are suppose to sit in the drivers seat and then preload the Caltracs evenly. I put an empty 351C bare block with caps in my drivers seat and a set of bare Cleveland 4v heads on the floor board in my 70 Cougar. I'm 230lbs so I figured that would be close enough weight to start with.
The main takeaway is to be consistent on how you check the preload. That establishes a baseline from which you can now make educated changes. Then test and evaluate. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Thanks for the information on leaf springs really helped me out alot
Lance Burk thanks so much for your comments and support! We love the leaf spring setups and they absolutely do work!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Thank you so much!!! Felt a lag for power delivery and its my cal tracs have a descent air gap.
Matt Helms thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Wow great advice & knowledge , thanks for sharing 👍🏼
R R thanks so much for your comments and encouragement! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Have you made a video on choosing the right size tire and rim when sitting up the suspension
I will add that to the list. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Gained another subscriber today great job my man🤘
Excellent explanation & a lot of help. Thank you😊
Franc Furian thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
One of the fastest s10s on the street runs a stock leaf spring... and probably half your viewers I kno i do. Alot of people cant always afford new leaf springs.
Crider prepping channel CPC thanks so much for your comments! Absolutely understand and agree. On these videos I try to cover all the spectrums out there. We have had great success with stock leaf springs and removing some of the stiffer helper springs for sure. Budget is critical, trust me, I know. Thanks for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC hell yea I'm running stock leafs without the bottom two springs. I'm just now starting to get mine all figured out ran a 6.61 at 110. This video is a big help for me tho bud thank you
Excellent tutorial . Thank u sir
Thank you so much for this video
Leroy Tapia thanks so much for your comments and you are welcomed! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
I'm running a Frankland QC with a Bicknel torque arm. I'm guessing the physics are the same?
Regarding shocks on a split mono leaf/Cal Trac car, I've been running mine forever starting with stock shocks, moving up (or so I thought) to Koni SPA-1 drag shocks with reasonable success. (best of a 1.34 60' time) When the track is marginal, the 60' times go for crap, along with the round loss. (bracket car) Yesterday I was ordering parts for the Camaro and I started thinking about updating my rear shocks. I stumbled on full tight being what worked for me and never changed the setting, and when I stroked the shock yesterday I realized the extension is very tight, but compression is basically non existent. I think that explains why I had traction issues on marginal surfaces. It will load the tire initially, but won't maintain it since the shock has zero compression damping. I ordered a set of QA1 double adjustable stocker star shocks for the back with the intention this year of hitting the marginal street legal nights and test until this car will hook in the burnout box. I wish your video was around 10 or so years ago when I bought these Koni shocks, I would have known to spend double the money to buy the correct shocks instead. Cheers!
yarrdayarrdayarrda thanks so much for your comments! You are spot on with the rebound and compression valving needing to help keep control of the tire and suspension! Keep me posted on how it goes! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Snow on the ground for another couple of months so it will be a bit, but I have a new reason (the D/A shocks) to be excited for the new season. Going to focus less on the bracket events, more on the Friday night drags and actually tuning on the car. Thanks for the great informative videos!!
GREAT vidio Kevin!!
Jim Nelson thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Leaned alot, thanks.
Thank you 👍👍
This video helped me understand a lot to how this whole thing works thank you ! I was completely off on my thinking lol…
I’m Running a VAS traction bar kit on my truck the bar is on the hole closest to the leaf spring the bar looks parallel to ground Will lowering the bar below the differential (off setting it lower) work the same to adding more bite anti squating
1slow02 thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I'm not using a 79 blower I am putting together a 79 Volare Roadrunner F body that is a Plymouth
Acceptional video series on suspensions. Bios ply?
Great informative video thanks
Good video, great teacher
Thank you! 😃 Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
You started to touch on a higher hole adjustment at the axle bracket. If you mount to a higher location at the rear bracket, I assume that will add even more squat?
Yes, in theory it promotes less separation. Many more factors in play for sure, but at a high level, yes. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great video!!
Dulla thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Why do you need the back end of the spring to slide?
What do you physically mean, when you say "you want the spring to work"?
What are "flats" for preloading the springs?
What is the antisquat line?
Not sure how the floater ladder bar works... if the spring supports the weight of the car, how can the ladder bar transfer weight to the chassis
Mikhail Paremski thanks so much for your comments! Checkout th-cam.com/video/WcA5xQGWpuY/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Awesome info & well presented.
Tim's Insanity thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Kevin in reviewing the video of the first trip to the track I noticed the bed of the truck came up. If the old theory is right when the bed was coming up there was certainly pressure being applied down as well. As I mentioned in a previous comment the truck left great but still spun some. Of course we want to go faster. We are going to add power over the winter. Would double adjustable shocks keep the the bed from rising in order to put that pressure down on the tires? I moved the the cal trac bar to the top hole because the S-10 had the CT bar pointing downward to the front of the truck. I’m running the stock shocks but want to add the DA/QA1 shocks
Thank you again for these outstanding videos.
This shows your love of the sport and willingness to help others along the way!!
Andy Jones
Andy Jones thanks so much for your comments! Absolutely get some Double Adjustable shocks Call Calvert Racing and let them help you get the shocks you need for your S-10. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
If it left good then spun that's where a double adjustable shock helps. You can add more compression to keep the tire planted. Also dont overlook adding more tire pressure. Most of the time low air pressure will hook initially, squat the tire, then bounce back up and spin the tires. Get DA shocks and add tire pressure to get rid of tire bounce. Great video btw Kevin.
Why can’t you run ladder bars with fixed axle housing?
Excellent video
Jack Collier thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great video!
Great video.. i'm putting caltracs on a 62 plymouth this weekend (and probably next weekend as i'm moving the springs a bit), The car is just gonna be for stoplight fun on the street, any issues with them on the street? Keeping shackles in the back, figured slider noise would be annoying.
Sounds great! No issues at all with Caltracs on the street!
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
I threw my caltracs out went back to factory springs .
So my main question is what is the difference between the Cal track system and running a rigid ladder bar instead of a pivoting Cal track system? To me the only difference is you’re not letting the pivot hit the leafspring to work off that it’s rigid to keep it from flexing to push the car forward correct
William Lutz thanks so much for your comments! Part 2 video coming this week!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
so you think that this is better that using the mopar superstock spring
How do sliders do on the street? Like daily driver street?
Great video
Just wondering is the squatline a line parallel to the bottom Caltrak bar was curious about where the other end of the line goes to is there a target on the chassis to aim for?
What kind of pinion angle do you like to see with leaf springs? I'm running split mons and the smith racecraft assassin bars. Thanks
Joe Schmo thanks so much for your comments! Checkout the video I just released for Part 2 Leaf Springs. th-cam.com/video/WcA5xQGWpuY/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great Video!
Thanks Kevin, when do I need to run a panhard bar/wats linkage with floater / ladder bar? I notice most leaf springs are not parallel , is this enough to not require a panhard? thanks man
Great tech video!!! You’ve definitely given me some ideas for upgrades this winter on my S10.
Edward Nulton thanks so much for your comments! Glad to hear I may have sparked some ideas!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I watched a couple more of your videos and I really like the content on your channel. I found you yesterday and I subscribed and hit the bell so I don’t miss any of the videos that you upload. This is in my top three favorite channels and I look forward to catching up on your other videos because I’m relatively new to the drag racing scene. Until this build I never had an engine that put out over 350 horsepower. Not that this one is going to break records but it should be about 750-800 with a shot of giggle gas and that’s a lot of power to me right now and I don’t have anyone with a bunch of knowledge to help me out so I’m hoping to buy into one of your plans in the spring.
Do you have a video on scaling a car and what kind of percentages to aim for?
I encourage you to checkout this Playlist from my channel. It is full of most every video you can think of for drag racing suspension tuning, including scaling a car. th-cam.com/play/PLK2JQ7QIgx_JRQMKBZMkx_tu0W4MDUxZQ.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@KevinWilsonSBC awesome. Thank you boss
Which would work best on an f100?
I would love to talk some more with you about this information.
David Clark thanks for commenting. Go to samsonperformance.com and shoot me an email and I will respond. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
On that floater do you suggest oiling it from time to time?
I wish I could find someone to talk about getting a F body left - right alinement to keep my right tire from getting the hell chewed out of it
O Negative thanks so much for your comments! Let's get it to the shop. I can help you! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Let me tell you something the sliders need to be at a angle speaking from experience.
Camaro Drag Racing Second Generation thanks so much for your comments! We have actually ran some sliders that have some drop in them on the hit and they work great, so yes, good point! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
I really need to pick your brains.
I’m just starting a build, a 55 Chevy Wagon and I’m wondering which direction to go in regards to rear suspension setup.
If staying leaf spring I have to relocate them inboard to make room for a 10” tire and I figure at that point I may as well just go coil overs, also a ladder bar is appealing to me for it’s simplicity, I can easily fab up the mounts/crossmembers for both in my home garage.
My dilemma is where should the front mounts for the ladder bars be height wise in relation to the axle centre line and should I also run an anti roll bar along with a panhard bar or watts linkage?
AndyGee’s Garage thanks for commenting. Go to samsonperformance.com and shoot me an email and I will respond. Go fast, go straight!
@@KevinWilsonSBC i definitely will. Thank you for replying.
Plans have changed s little I sold the wagon and am going to look at a 48 Austin A40 sedan. I’ll email you with my plan.👍
Kevin, I need advice installing spring sliders on my 67 Camaro with Caltracs. How far apart? What angle? Where should the leaf eye bolt sit in the slider while car is at rest? There's not much info available for installing these properly. Thanks in advance.
Can you lower the back bar to add more bite if you don't have multiple holes on the front?
Yes that will help!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thanks for the reply I'm going to try that next.
Good info thanks.
Aj Richards thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
At what point do you think all the fancy leafs and bars are needed? I run 6.50s 1/8 mile with stock leafs and slapper bars! Lol it 60ft 1.43-44s. pulls both fronts 6" and rides out
J Bevins thanks so much for your comments! If it ain't broke, don't fix it! We have had stock stuff and slapper bars in the 1.32 60' all day long. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks awesome information
18f150tvs thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Probably a stupid question but I'll ask anyway. When the car is sitting where should the rear slider position be? All the way towards the front?
DEATHTRAPHOTRODS thanks so much for your comments! That can vary, but generally toward the back of the slider. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thank you
Hi Kevin. I apologize if this is a silly question but I searched and didn’t quite see the answer. What is the main benefit of sliders over a stock type shackle? The way I see it they both allow for and aft movement of the spring eyelet, so I don’t quite understand why a slider is better. Is it because the slider doesn’t move on an arc like a shackle, or maybe because you’d be losing the rubber bushings? I’m currently working on a Dakota that will be running mono leafs and cal trac bars and your video got me wondering if I should look into the sliders. Appreciate all of the info you’ve been kind enough to share.
Jason Pipkin thanks so much for your comments and question! The main goal of the slider is to allow the spring to have smooth lateral movement as the suspension goes through its travel on the hit and eliminate the arc of the shackle type setup. Trying to put all the energy into launching the car and not have wasted motion and/or binding of the spring on suspension travel. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thank you sir. 🤜
Top video thank you
dwayne boan thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I have been watching your videos on leafsprings and was wondering what you might be gaining with adding a hole in the calvert spring plate under the leaf springs above the factory one they use? Just trying to get all the separation I can get and wanted to know since you spoke about it but didn't really say what it could do.
Generally the more uphile the caltrac bar is from the rear end going toward the chassis, the more you will help with separation of the chassis and pushing the rear end toward the track. If you flatten the bar getting it closer to level, the less upward tq being applied to push the chassis up and the more you are helping drive the chassis forward. However, the big factor is the location of the front spring mount and if you are allowing enough motion on the rear leaf spring mount. So if you are really wanting more separation, make sure the rear leaf spring mount is free to move and there is enough movement in the rear to allow for more separation. If the rear spring mount cannot move forward or forward and down more, then you are effectively done separating. This is really key hence all the focus on sliders or hangers that are canted back at ride height so you have more movement to allow the rear end and spring to continue down toward the track more.
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
this is what i have been looking for in a video. i have been power watching your rear set ups for leaf springs, i have a full size F150 and the springs are over the rear housing. i have latter bars on it now and it hooks up very well, ( they are NOT mounted in a traditional manor, upside down and split mount.) my question is this, how would you make a latter bar work on this setup? would you use the slider in the same way on the spring?
Not sure I am following you exactly. Can you shoot me an email at samsalignmentsc@gmail.com so we can discuss more. Sounds like you have ladder bars now that are working well but you are wanting to know more about sliders regarding springs on top of axle. This will be easier over email and you provide pictures of your current setup. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Love the video, any advice for weekend drag races with diesel trucks I have caltrec bars on back looking for adjustable shocks drag/ street mods
Rodger Bishop thanks so much for your comments! Strong valving is your friend with tons of torque!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
so how do you prevent the so called Bunny hop?
Definetly checkout my additional videos on leaf springs. Start with this one next: th-cam.com/video/WcA5xQGWpuY/w-d-xo.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
When you say turn the bar 1 or 2 "flats" what does that mean ? Thanks.
Tom Smith thanks so much for your question and a good question! Many bars will have a hex head welded or manufactured in into the bar to allow using a wrench to turn the bar vs using pliers/channel locks. A Turnbuckle will most likely have a hex built in also. A hex head as 6 sides so generally 2 flats will be around 1/8 of a full turn. Hope this helps explain 1 to 2 flats of a turn. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
What if I'm running 3 inch lowering multi leaf springs from hotchkis can I still run a Caltracs set up or should I ditch them for a mono leaf spring ?? Awesome explanation. Subscribed!!
Moses Andres thanks so much for your comments and question! I have not ran the hotchkis leaf springs before so I would recommend you give them a call. I did check out their documentation and that don't really address the caltrac type setups. I am big fan of the mono leaf springs for full track use. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Would I be able to message you and get some input on some things by chance?
Kevin an I correct in understanding from your videos that if you were setting up a new car from scratch and had your choice of rear suspension types 4-link would be your #1 choice?
ratheal watford thanks so much for your question! For a drag car yes it would be a 4 link. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I haven’t build my shock mounts and got shocks on it but my Isuzu pickup the single leaf bows in the center with weight on it. Will getting my shocks added to the rear remedy that or do I need to look at getting some new leaf springs?
I encourage you to get the 4 corner weights and then talk with the leaf spring manufacturer. Installing shocks will not remedy that. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!