Drag Racing Rear Shocks Refresher | Coilovers | Prep | No Prep
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2022
- Drag Racing Rear Shocks Refresher | Coilovers | Prep | No Prep It is time to have an updated refresher video on some key parts of the drag racing rear shocks!! Over the past 45 days, especially with my remote suspension tuning services, it is clear we need to keep educated and discussing the rear shocks on a drag car. This video will cover these topics and help you better understand these absolutely critical parts of your suspension recipe!
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Samson Performance of Sam's Alignment in North Charleston, SC:
Get with us at our shop to let us help you scale your car and do a complete plot of your car as it is today and then we can discuss what changes, if any, we would recommend. We do drag car chassis tuning, chassis setup and ensure the suspension is setup for the best drag racing launches possible! We also offer online remote services from our website here below:
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Jerry Wittig at Penske Racing Shocks:
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Watched 8 or 9 videos now of yours, this one has been my favorite. Outstanding information, learned a lot and I’ll probably watch it again just to pickup anything I missed the first time. Thanks for taking the time to make these, I’ll be sure to keep watching in the future.
A good teacher has the ability to convey their knowledge to everyday language so the student understands. YOU sir do that VERY WELL. Should have been a science teacher. I enjoy your teachings. I was racing in the 60's and things were never explained so well. We didn't have any idea of what was really going on. Just trial and error. I'm 70 now and going back to racing next year. (brackets) Started in class racing in 66. Thank you for your knowledge. Daddy must be proud.
Wow! Thanks so much Herb! I really appreciate you leaving a comment and giving me such accolades. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thank you for these videos, working my way through them.
Always very informative and professional. Learning more so I can buy the right stuff
Thank you Kevin. This is was a good refresher for me.
You are welcome!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Another great video with everyday language and explanation.
Appreciate the compliment!! Thank-you so much! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
love the vids!
Thank-you!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
This is great stuff Kevin. The rear suspension in my car is coming together and the old-school drag shocks are in the dumpster. I'll give you a call when I get it back on the ground. This stuff just makes sense. Thanks!
Sounds good, Steve!! Glad you enjoy the channel! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
spot on...great video with pearls of wisdom. hopefully they'll listen to you...lotta people cut corners when it comes to shocks. i often have people tell me their car is to violent for a specific planetary ratio and in trying to calm it down they are leaving a lot on the table when another with a similar car but better suspension management makes the advantageous gearing work...work on and understand your suspension people, he's giving y'all amazing tech...thanks buddy
Thanks so much, Anton!! Appreciate you watching and leaving a comment!! Glad we have connected for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks for the shoutout on stripper glitter. Spend a lot of testing to make it what it is today
Absolutely!!! Michael you guys have a great product for sure!!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great video! We have been trying to use 90/10 front struts on a fox body and the top out extremely fast and unloads. Working on getting a set of double adjustable fronts to get it under control.
Sounds great! You will not regret that decision!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
There have been so many championship and extremely high horsepower winning engines that have been built over the years that are put into junk chassis all the time. It never ceases to amaze me.
Thank-you, Layton!! I agree. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Ever thought about doing a video on shock travel graphs and what to look for? We done a remote tuning session with you and it helped so much. Just wish I knew what to look for more when looking at shock travel
I will be covering this in my upcoming Questions and Answer video. Stay tuned! Thanks for leaving a comment and using the remote tuning!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I have all of what you mentioned except Penske. Old 90/10 struts, AFCO's, and even Menscer on one car. I'd like to try a set of Penske someday.
Thanks for commenting Preston!!! You will find the Penske shocks to be high quality and customer service that rocks. The AFCO and Menscer shocks are also certainly great choices. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@12:00 Cast Iron Piston's Might be a Problem. 💣 Couldn't resist that, knew you meant cast aluminum. 🙂
Yeah... good catch! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Hey Kevin. Leaf spring small tire no prep ET streets Rear shocks does it matter front or rear of axle and strait or angled?
I'm guilty of never investing in quality $hock$ but you've shown me the light for going with quality DA coil overs.
Question: I want to get a set of 4-corner scales, any suggestions?
Suggestion: Can ya do some occasional video breakdowns of cars running on the street & track? I liked hearing your 2 cents of the one you did of the Falcon & Boston George
Thanks again for the wisdom Kevin, we appreciate it!
Thanks so much, Rusty, for how you support the channel! I always recommend this sets of scales: amzn.to/2RTu41S and they have been great for me and always remain accurate. I will keep working on that type of content for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great Video. I do have a question, does it hurt to have a street/strip car (800-100hp) that you drive to the strip(20-30 miles round trip) and do all that driving on coil overs with dual adjustable shocks? I have heard of people having one set to drive on and change shocks/tires when they get to the track, however I always didn't know if the shocks could handle the street driving & weight or not?
For a custom built drag racing shock, not your off the shelf shock, I would really recommend not doing any daily driving on them. You can... but you need to really give them more attention to nitrogen pressure and any signs for leaking. If you have to drive on them, reduce the R and C clicks greatly to soften up the shocks so the fluid is not getting super heated for so long and takes pressure off the internal pistons/shims. While they have much better quality parts in them, they are designed for drag racing passes. Definitely need to give them some cool down time once you get to the track and then after cool down for at least an hour, verify pressure. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Will these adjustments work similar on a 1000 hp, big tire, 230" dragster, 4-link with no front suspension?
Strictly through your channel I have learned about suspension. Shocks will be my first investment. I live by the paycheck and i'm curious what brand you suggest. I have a forty nine chevy truck on a seventy three g m c frame. I will be putting on a 4 link and would like to know about brand of shocks. I was looking at qa1 double adjustable. Going to take me some time to afford seven hundred dollars. That's fine i'm looking at running eight hundred horsepower approximately and street racing. I'll run either a 28 or 29 tire. I definitely won't be running a blown hemi such as yourself. Did you have any monroe shocks kicking around you don't want? Lol.
Penske 8300's are a very nice shock. I would recommend adding the air dump option, it's not that expensive & can also be added on to most existing versions of the 8300.
Yes, recording shock velocity data is also highly recommended, it shows you exactly what's going on. Or if you are a real baller, you can go with Penske Inerters which are $18,000 a pair 😜 Yes, people are using them even at that insane price level.
Yeah Penske or JRI rear shocks with dump valves are where it is at...
I'd happily use either with the air dump rather than not have the air dump.
Thanks so much, John!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Good feedback, Austin! I would love to get my hands on a set of Inerters!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I helped one PM team & hung out with another team that had Inerters. The data is sort of an odd duck compared with what you see on conventional designed shocks but they definitely work! I heard they have strut Interters now too but have not seen or been around them. In those cases they have close to $40,000 just in shocks & struts. The insanity never ends.
Thanks for the great video. I have a 69 Camaro that is gonna be a street strip car I wanted to get the Detroit speed rear coil over over suspension so it rides nice if I go on a long trip what's your opinion if It would work for Drag Racing with 570 horsepower and Small tire?
I am not that familiar with Detroit Speed shocks/coilovers. If they are double adjustable you should be fine at a high level, but I cannot speak to that shock too much. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
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An actual no prep rear shock break down with video would be nice still hard for me to see visually where you need more or less rebound or compression in the rear
Is it possible to upgrade the penski 7300 series to double/ triple adjustable? Mine are older and need to be rebuilt, so If I can't, ill buy new ones. But if I can, obviously I'd rather keep the ones I have
Give Jerry Wittig a call at Penske for sure at 610-375-6180 and Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
😂 @14:32
Yeah that’s me…
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hello Kevin, I have a 1980 Sunbird mild steel round tube chassis car. Has a similar setup as your new car. Plans are for an LS stroker twin turbo. Looking for a nice Afco double adjustable shocks for the front and rear. And help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for commenting! Earl, there are so many factors that go into that recommendation. I encourage you to speak to Jerry at Penske or Eric at AFCO. I have some remote tuning packages on my website at samsonperformance.com/services.html that would allow me to get the info needed to help guide you if you prefer that route. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thank you Kevin for your fast reply. I will contact Eric and see what he says. Thanks for the link as well.
Hello, I subscribe due to watching Lawrence LT's channel. He recommended your channel. I have a 17 Silverado, I want to some what improve the rear suspension, what would you recommend I do for the rear end. Just new shocks? I want to be able to carry some loads and tow a little more than usual.
Thanks, Justin! I love Lawrence LT's channel also! The changes to the rear end would require me to have more info on the truck. If just better towing is the focus better shocks never hurt, but the springs may also come in to play. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC my '17 Silverado is a 1500 V8 5.3L so nothing fancy. Now my situation is I live in the country up here in Canada, our roads in the far north are somewhat rough, I want to do something that would balance ride quality and hauling items in my box. If I ad a leaf spring it will stiffen up my rearend and wouldn't be good on the rough raid I travle on, if I ad shocks it will be ok but in Canada were limited to the type of shock we can buy. Maybe I'm just thinking or asking for too much.
Hey Kevin my name is Tom I have a Calvert suspension the split leaf the caltrac bars the shocks I'm sure you've heard of Alex Taylor well her boyfriend Nick Taylor has a company called Nikki Bobby Incorporated well he has these brackets that go underneath the leaf spring where the caltrac bars go under but you know where the one bar it's just got the one hole that's attached to the rear well he's got these brackets that have four holes instead of the one plus he has four adjustments for coilovers so I bought the qa1 coilover kit you know it comes with the bar you got to weld between the frame rails you know blah blah blah long story short is everything's going to fit between the frame rails it's not a narrowed rear I have a 67 mustang say I'm asking is is this better then what I had I mean it sounds like a silly question but I've never had coilovers and I'm hoping that this is going to make my suspension coming out of the hole and traction much better if you have any ideas please let me know thank you very much
Maybe I missed it but I know in the no prep world u want the front to come up slow and transfer back but how do u want the rear to react in a no prep scenario???
Watch this one: th-cam.com/video/eF19sCJxw68/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC so what I'm getting from the video is no prep or prepped u want the tire to hit and then as the car accelerates u want it to start separating...with no prep do u want it to separate faster or slower(keep the weight back)
please can you activate the subtitles thank
Stock bottom LS will run 1500hp though. The rest of the junk doesn’t
Can I send a video And give me ur opinion on thoughts
Where can I message you ?
Double adjustable coil overs *( Koni Coil Overs the best race shock on the market )* are the best way to go all the way around not just on the back, dunno why all these kids today insist on running air shocks there not for racing there for a comfy ride on your road car idiots, dude I ran a bracket car on a prepped and no prepped *( some tracks we raced at the surfaces were so horrid and the track was so poor it was what racers today would consider and un-racable surface like how narrow some of the tracks I’ve been on are you almost touch mirrors passing the guy Holly springs MS used to be that way 30 years ago it’s a nice track now )* surface and I never changed anything to my setup on my car I was a small tire *( 14 inch Firestone or Goodyear bias ply, the only two brands and size I would run as rears we were making a little over 1500HP out of a junkyard 350 )* Dude VHT’s been around as long as I can remember that’s what tracks prepp with, wheelie control sensor is the stupidest thing in the world, I run analog cars with a carburetor on there screw all these new electronics, my blocks came from a junkyard but you can get away with that especially if your just gonna bore it chromoly sleeve it and dry block it, but your right my rotating assembly was the best the money I had could buy, your four link system is the rest of the adjustment your guys are taking about gotta remember the four link system is part of your suspension setup, 14 psi that’s a lot we ran 6-8 PSI, don’t see many racer these days running line locks, tracks brakes or even stutter box’s the benefit you get from a stutter box on launch I think kids call them two steps they allow you to leave at full throttle and if your running that stuff and have it set right you better have some wheelie bars on it, Penske is mostly used in nascar guy what are you a Penske rep or just sponsored?
Thanks for the comment!! I am a Penske reseller, not sponsored by anyone and actually do not resale any shocks as I just don't have the time at this stage. I do however run their shocks on my 48 Ford and they absolutely work. They also have a large presence in drag racing today and growing more and more. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Would you please call me on a chassis setup?? 🙏🏻
You want 60 to 70 percent spring compression with a radial . Is that 60 to 70 percent of the total heighth of the spring sitting on the bench or is that 60 to 70 percent of the distance between the heighth dimension of the spring sitting on the bench and the dimension at which that spring binds ?
In other words....if i have a 12" spring am i shooting to have it compressed at a race ready heighth of about 4.5 " ?
That would mean id be conpressing the spring 7.5" from its relaxed state of 12"vwhich would fall between that 60 to 70 percent you're calling for.
Im talikng in terms of putting all other factors aside for the moment
These are very general guidelines. Depending on many factors such as available shock travel at ride height, hp/tq, rear suspension type, etc... On a radial drag car, I am looking for as much of spring travel extension through the run so I can have compliment the shock travel available. With that in mind, I will err on the side of a softer springer, but never sitting in a coil bind situation at rest. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@KevinWilsonSBC point well taken . 66 chevelle 530 hp @6400
520 torque @4800 . 400 tranny built good to 1000 hp . Coan 4k stall .
QP Ford 9" . 3:25 gear (tall ..I know but I've got a plan ) qa1 level 2 kit .
Since finding you I've added 4 viking warrior DA shocks , a UMI cross bar from shock tower to shock tower.
Motor and trans @ 3.5* running downhill toward the back of the car.
Pinion angle 1 5* running uphill from back to front . Lower Control Arm at about 4* running uphill from back to front. Upper control arm running downhill from rear toward front 10*
At those angies my rear shock eyelet dimmension us 15.5 . Shock has a stock travel of 13.5 to 21.25.
Qa1 14/150 spring is currently loose when I lift the body up but I don't want to raise ride height to tighten that up .
Instead I bought a set of hyperco 14/110 .
M/T et street 275 60 15 .
The reason I'm shallow on rear gear is because I want to drive the car in 3rd on the street at a decent RPM versus 3800 @65 mph with a deep gear lol.
I'm not sure how well this is gonna work but here's the plan .
Leave @ 4 grand with about 450 foot pounds , run it up over 7 grand in first , shift once and run it back up to around 7 grand again. Should be game over. 1 shift. Many have suggested 60 foot time will suffer with that gear but im Givin it a shot .
If I have to ill go to 3:73 or 4:10 .
. I know you're a very busy man but any commebt or suggestion you may have would be greatly appreciated.
If not it's cool 😎
I love this shit because a huge percentage of guys are right on the sinkin ship hes talkin about . All motor and drive line and no car . Mike tyson with one broken leg goin up against sugar ray 😂
775 hp gets whipped by 540 because the 540 is 94 percent of what it can be and the 775 is 64 percent of what it can be
Does the spring rate need to be considered with canted shocks for leaf springs or does this pertain to coilover springs exclusively?