That was a dream job Peter, normally as you know in our job we have so many injectors that do not budge , great job , Dave will like the Amazon shop link 👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 yep , I've purchased some stuff off there last month , very reasonable prices and decent stuff , cheers Peter , have a great Christmas and New Year 🎅🎅🎅👍👍👍
Hi Peter ,you made that look easy ,I've just been into Mazda. those 4 injectors are a grand each without fitting ,ill be replacing with ones that don't come in the Mazda logo box🤣.
Yes, the injectors are easy to remove but rocker cover removal might be needed if they were leaking bad. But all in all relatively easy job. Fantastic to have someone from Athens watching, thank you so much and the very best of luck with the job 🤞🤞🙏🙏🙏
No rest….even on Christmas Day Peter!!! Great video and couldn’t have come at a better time for my project. I’m thinking I’ll go a step further and remove the cover to see if/what damage lurks for my wagon as it has shown the P06DE error code..I just hope the damage isn’t already done ☹️😞🤔
I’m changing the exhaust camshaft on this one due to a P0101 & P0102 air flow code. I’m waiting on parts but should have it uploaded by 10th jan if any help. But well worth looking under the cover 🤔👍 Cheers Damien
Greetings from norway 🙋So many thanks for your videos! Have helped me alot on my mazda 6 2013 2.2d (101500 km)👌👌 It started with watchin a video of you taking out the map sensor, became interested myself and of course the sensor on my car looked like a cone of carbon. Then i did the intake carbon cleaning, extremely clogged up, could only fit a finger through the holes between all the carbon build up. On my first test drive after, the car suddenly started to jump like a kangaroo! Was impossible to bulid up speed and almost couldnt get home 😬🙈 after saying to myself im an idiot and shouldnt have done tried this i calmed down and checked the enginebay, the hose just before the intercooler had popped completely off 😂😂 shouldn't have had those beers when assembling everything the night before 😂😂😂 drove perfectly after that 👌👌 After that I checked the exhaust pressure sensor with Forscan, read only 70 kpa on koeo, but pressure did increase/decrease when monitoring it when driving. Dont exactly know how it did, because it was COMPLETELY impossible to blow down through the metal pipe. Got the thing out after watching your video about it (really freaking hard to get enough space to remove the screws btw😅) After two hours with alot of miscellaneous things, wire, strips etc attached to my drill i managed to get it unclogged, and fitted back to the car with the new version of the sensor. Now it reads correctly ca 100 kpa on koeo and i can clearly see pressure both rising an falling alot quicker when monitoring it driving also. (Probably was a microsopic hole left in it before) 🤷 So yesterday i decided to do the injector washers, and at the same time taking of the rocker cover and check the exhaust cams. Everything went smooth, injectors came up easy and the original copper washers looked fine actually (changed them of course with new silver ones). No exhaust gases had leaked and under the rocker cover everything looked nice thankfully. The oil shower pipes was clear, including the little holes in it. EXCEPT the exhaust cams, which was wore down probably 2.5 mm. Have you ever openened one of these things without finding worn exhaustcams?? Anyway, I put everything together (didnt change the exhaustcam, need to order it first with new lifters) But now to my question if you have time to answer 😊 The car wont start now, probably air in the fuel system 🤷 tried loosing one of the nuts on the injector pipe closest to timing belt side just as i have watched you done, and have cranked probably 6 times now. (10 seconds cranking, with breaks inbetween and tried many times tightening again, trying to start) Have not seen any any diesel coming out of the pipe yet 🤔 Do you need to crank alot of times and try again and again? Have the impression you only do it "a couple" of times and it always starts up fine 😂 I probably used 10x the time doing this than you do and messing about with things so more air have entered the system maybe? Anyways hope you have time to answer (this became a very long read😂)and again thanks for all the videos you put out. Have become my main things to watch when having free time, and also when i am working on my car, great entertainment and learning 👌👌 -Thor
Got it running again! Made a frankenstein sucktion pump out of a syringe, bicyclepump, jam jar and lots of garden hose attachments and various hoses.😅 Sucked the air out of the small pipe right side top of engine where you can remove a black rubber cap untill only fuel appeared in the hose. Then I opened the nut on the injectors one by one and cranking in between. Also did a injector calibration with Forscan after. Car drives so much nicer now than before i did all the repairs! Only the exhaustcam left to do now, had the turbo replaced last year at a workshop after it broke. Would have tried to replace it myself now if it had broken today, was crazy expensive..
Well done Thor, you don’t everything absolutely perfect 💪💪💪 If you leave the fuel system disconnected overnight it can become a whole lot harder to bleed & we do exactly as you done. Bleed it through the little black cap 👏👏 I have only once ever for a good camshaft on disassembly, they are worn on every one of them after 120,000 kms . But very well done on achieving this repair, hats of to you 🎩
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks! 😁 felt really good once it fired up! When things are not working right away I always start thinking i messed up somehow 😂 I have orderd the camshaft, both kind of rockers (8 total) and new hydraulic tappets(im changing everything now once im in there😅), very excited to recieve it. One last question(s) if you dont mind; I watched a video on Deise Diagnostics's channel(one of your guys?). th-cam.com/video/V8Gct8gandg/w-d-xo.html
@@thorels that is Alan who works for me 😂😂 The best advice I can give is to just ignore the valves. They can get tight very often but only get opened 3 or 4 mm by the new camshaft & they engine sounds awful on first cranking. (ie. No compression whatsoever, but it will come back slowly. 1 cylinder at at time ) just keep cranking for couple of minutes. We were removing the cylinder head off the CX5 in Alan’s videos anyway 😉😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 Just coming back to say thanks again, I have now successfully replaced the camshaft, tappets and rockers 😅👌Took of the intake camshaft just to inspect it also, but everything looked like new. Also replaced lower front control arms on both sides as one side had the ball joint broken. As you said it sounded terrible on first 2 - 3 cranks, almost like it was struggling to rotate the engine. Of course i got the stomach churning feeling a few seconds/minutes as I thought I had over tightened something (did torque down all bolts to spec) before it suddenly returned to normal, idle stabilized and sounded better than ever. 😁 Maybe you could include the first startups in one of your videos so that people dont have a heart attack when reparing this by themselves 🤣🤣 If someone else are going to do this repair or replacing injector washers, valve cover gasket etc, it really helped me this time to first bleed out the air from the fuel system where the black cap is before starting to crank and then have the lines open at injectors. The fuel lines was off maybe 3 days and i had no problems getting fuel to the injectors. All in all, great experience to do this all by myself and not extremely difficult if you're not afraid to take things apart. Before this i had only done basic brake pad/disc changes and various suspension parts. Next up is probably the vacuum pump, the pressure comes down to 7.6 kPa after pumping the brake pedal at idle, in twice the amount of time compared to your other video after you replaced it. But i have no fault codes or trouble braking so will wait a bit :) Cheers!
Loving all the Mazda 6 video's Peter. I know so much more about the engine and the common problems due to your videos. What is your labour rate? Going to see if it is worth my while coming down from Dublin to get a few bits done
I would have cars coming from Dublin & further afield on a constant basis. It only 1 hour & 30 minutes away. Google Kennedys garage & give me a call to run through any issues you are having. I could give overall guide prices then 😉👍👍👍👍
Best tutorials on TH-cam, maby I’m biased as an Irish man, Peter where do you get your Mazda parts, I’m an amateur and have been working off eBay so far long wait times and second hand thanks for all the videos
I get a lot of my parts from the dealership, especially injector washers, camshaft’s & vacuum pumps. I’m glad you liked my videos and thank you so much Chris 🙏🙏
We usually just blow in some compressed air, get to get any residue from the injector seats. But it’s not something you should need to worry about too much 😉👍👍
Hi peter great video i was kind of a bit scared to do this job on mine but after watching definetly feel more confident about doing it :) mine is 2017 sportnav 2.2d whose injectors you removed came offf so easy every story i have heard they are pain in the asss to romove from other cars what millage was on this car? im on 66000 miles and thinking of changin the washers on my incjetors .. thanks tom
I have encountered ones that were too bad as of yet. You can use the 2 bolts at each side of the injector bracket to raise the bracket and pull up the injector. Be sure to unscrew the bolts evenly though & you will need a very small torx socket 🤞🤞💪💪
Yes Lukasz I did mention that they had been replaced but I had no record of the work being done so I replaced them again anyway. Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment 😉👍
Hi Peter, I have a 2016 Mazda 6 tourer with 138k KMS and FSH. Only problem so far is turbo replacement 3 months ago. How often do these injector washers need to be replaced? Or is it a case of checking the sump gauze first? I might have to take my holidays in Waterford this year 😀
Sorry for the delayed response Michael I only now have seen the comment 😞 Did they find the reason for the turbo failing?? This normally happens due to oil starvation. If they found an oil feed pipe blocked or something else all that s ok but if not you might need to consider the gauze sooner rather than later 😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 A rivet had broken off the turbo, there was no acceleration up to 2500 rpm. As regards the injector washers is there a recommended time to replace or is it a case of checking the gauze?
@@michaelcurley8764 I meant to say before but usually replaced around 150,000 kms. But they are quite easy to do so some people get them replaced when getting the car serviced. If not too carboned up it should cost €250 - €300
@@kennedysgarage3281 local garage quoted me 111 for 3 seal replacements which isn't bad but prices here may be different . In UK. I've got my washers inc the instruction to do it . I've been tempted on doing it myself a few times they have nor long been out as head gasket was done so know they shouod come out no issues . I listened to them today woth stethoscope and the newest injector sounds crisp cylinder 1 . Cylinder 3 not so bad either. 2 and 4 sound noisier or at least not scrimp like the other 2 . I wonder of theure a bit poor . I'm hoping injectors aren't knackered but I guess I'd prob get misfire if Amy were bad. ? Either way I guess doing them wouod give piece of mind . The part that gets me is the torquing up pattern. I guess I read a few more times it'll all make sense . As ot shows markings etc all od need is a kit to clean seats and bores and an additional torque wrench as all 3 of mine . Lowest is 5nm so no good Thanks buddy
I have never in my time seen injectors come up and out so easily. They must have been lubed by that engine oil. Is the rocker gasket leaking all that oil into the injector hole ??
No Chris, the seals on top under the injector clamp is to stop oil leaking out but under that seal the injector is open. So in essence the oil does get in and around the body of the injector. If that makes sense 🤔 But yes they did come out nice and easy, I would think they were done quite recently by the looks of them. I am actually replacing the exhaust camshaft on it so you will get to see it in more detail soon 😉
Have a 2016 cx5 with the 2.2d. currently have no issues with the seals, but would it be worth changing the seals? Not even sure if my year of model will have the copper seals in it. Cheers
Hi Kennedy I have a question if you can answer it of course I replaced all four injectors in my car but I can not find a way to program them with their unique code I used the original software ids and my lunch diagnostic tool as well and they both doesn't have that function So the only programming that I've done is the injectors correction Do you have any idea if it needs a special tool to program them or this procedure is enough Thanks Denis
If your scan tools don’t have the option for it & once it drives ok with the new injectors with just injector correction done, I think it will be fine. The PCM does adjust the flow rating over long drive cycles & it will be fine 👍🙏
@Kennedy’s garage It looks like it is because it's driving very smooth and nice after this job exept the injector holders wich the two of four broke in the middle after a week...omg Thank you so much Kennedy you have very big patience to do those video really!
Hi Peter, question. How many types of those engines are there? 2.2d? I mean in how many series it is produced. I heard that since 2016, all the problems with that engine have been removed. I wonder if that is true? Cheers mate 🍻
I did not put a ring on the nozzle, I just put it in the mine.And especially the fitting on the fuel pump, look. black cap to bleed air from the system
Hi bud do you know to access the oxygen sensor on mazda6 2.2skyactiv-d 175 and the location? And also is the oxygen sensors for the 175 bhp and 150 bhp the same? Many thanks mate
There are 2 in the exhaust system, 1st is up close to the turbo & the 2nd is after the Dpf. They will be the only sensor’s in the exhaust with 5 wires 👍
The injector shaft is normally clean but oily. It is when they are covered in hard carbon that you need to be worried about the oil strainer being semi blocked 😉👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 I see yes I’ve heard once the injector washers fail the fuel and combustion gases turns the cam area into sludge and pour it all around the System but I can see you know all about these- I worked in a Mazda dealer when the RX7’s had just been released and wow that was a fun wankel ( rotary ) engine to drive in …very fast and great sound ..
Did you found the part number of these injector nozzles? On some forums these Denso injectors were faulty and had to be replaced, but new 4 of them would cost 4k € or more. I was wondering if it's possible to change only the nozzles as it would cost much less.
These injectors cannot be disassembled & repaired. They are around €400 each, so should be under 2k for 4 injectors. The only word of caution I must mention is that the exhaust camshaft wear in these very often and cause similar symptoms. It might be worth taking a look at it. Also you could replace the injector washers when doing it 🤔🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281I already checked the injectors in a specialized center on the bench, by removing all 4 and then replacing the cooper washers with the grey ones. Both camshaft and EGR are on my suspect list now
Just loosen 1 of the 17mm fuel line nuts on an injector & then crank the engine over until you see diesel leaking from it. This just allows the air somewhere to go, then tighten it again & up it should go 🤞🤞🤞
Good morning Kennedy, my name is Stefano. I'm writing to you from Italy. I saw your video about policing the injector locations. I should do the same job on my Mazda 6 Sky Active. I wanted to ask you what type of cutters you used for cleaning and smoothing the injector seats. If you can help me or share a link on Amazon about this kind of equipment. Hello and thanks Stefano
Hi Stefano, injector washers do fail on these very regularly and are well worth doing. This is an Amazon link that I copied and pasted for injector seat cutting tool. Hopefully it helps you out 🤞🤞 amzn.eu/d/244ilQY
I use any kind of grease, just to hold the washers in place while dropping in the injectors. It has no sealing value whatsoever. Thanks for watching & commenting, hopefully this helps 🙏👍
Alright mate I'm having similar problem i think. I have a 2011 2.2 113000 miles and it smokes intermittently. When I park up and leave it idle car revs jump up and smoke clears. Sometimes on motorway it's there sometimes not. Mostly when get down to normal speeds. I've only had car two month and it's happened three times now lasting couple of days then no smoke for maybe 10 days.
Hi Peter firstly I love all your videos on the mazda 6's they are so informative. I have a 2016 2.2d that I recently bought. Car has had De coke from Mazda new Map and Maf sensors. They have also completed a pcm update and oil change This has helped with the issue I was having with the MPG. However I am noticing that the regen on the DPF is activating every 56 miles regardless of whether it is on motorway or not. I've heard stories about enlarged nozels on injectors. But also exhaust back pressure sensor but mine is the updated metal one. I have forscan and everything looks as it should as far as I can tell but wondered if you had come across this and what may have been the issue.
Hi David, I’m delighted that you enjoyed my videos 🙏🙏 Generally the car ECU only triggers Dpf regeneration when it sees the ‘exhaust back pressure being higher that it wants’. It then starts a regeneration on the presumption that it is soot/particulate. Now DPF’s can also build up ash residue in them that cannot be gotten rid of by a regeneration. High ash content normally happens around 200,000 kms. The car will keep trying to clean the Dpf over & over, possibly what is happening 🤔🤔 If so an off vehicle Dpf cleaning is the only solution, make sure the pressure sensor is reading accurately first. Hopefully this will help 🤞👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi Peter thankyou so much for the response. Which makes so much sense. Shortly after buying the car I had an on car DPF clean. As part of that it came with a diagnostic. The chap said that following his work it was showing approx 4% Ash content so I'm hoping that is the case and that the DPF is not the issue. I'm leaning more towards the exhaust back pressure sensor (bank2 I think it's classed as). Prior to the clean it was showing a reading of 20 but I don't know what the 20 related to this was whilst the engine was off. He said that this meant the ecu was thinking the dpf is partly full and it start the regenerations earlier. Even after the clean it was still showing a reading meaning of 12 so his theory seems to be sound. When mazda had the car they said the sensor was fine and from what I can see it wasn't changed but I don't know if the de-coke extended to the metal pipe that runs behind the block. On forscan the sensor shows a reading of around 100Kpa which I believe is in line with atmospheric pressure but then rises under acceleration to a max of around 3-400kpa with the car stood. It's so difficult as there are not many guides to sensor max /min values to help. I saw your video where you changed the pipe that was clogged leading to that sensor so wondering if that may also be a contributing factor. I may just bite the bullet and get a sensor. For that sake of £70 it may just do the trick. Potentially that may help in seeing if the pipe too is blocked. He also recommended changing the metal pipework too. I'm definately a DIYist and wouldn't want to shear a nut but maybe worth checking it and then going from there.
@davidravensdale651 any joy buddy. I had noticed my regens almost stop with higher grade fuel in it ... hence why I'm sire its injectors. 1 was new around 1.5 tears ago got 1 new herecto to go in . So wouod only need 2 more . But trying to find a tool that will do coding ?
Hi mate love ya vods as isual i kkow ive commented here before but bekieve i need new injectors 1 was new over a year ago git 1 at home new 2 to go . Hope to do it kysekf ive got a reaming kit . But any coding device you recommend ? As id need to code new ones in ? Tjanl you pal .. Amd b is the 2nm and 90° clockwise nut B (left ) is the 2nm amd 270 anticlockwise ? Ty again
Hy I have cx 5 2.2 2013 Obd erorr P062B Internal Control Module Fuel Injector control performance. Any ideea. On dasboard Light esp and check engine. Thanks!
I have not come across that, but it is the 2nd comment this morning talking about ECU failure. Check all the engine & ECU earth straps ?? Are you in Ireland??
Hiya Peter, Great content! I have a big question. I have a 2.2d skyactive CX-5 and recent took off fuel injectors to change seals and clean them. I now put it all back together and tried to crank without bleeding system (as I forgot). Then wouldn’t start. So then I realised and bled around 1 lucazade bottle of fuel. Now there is no pressure building in fuel system as when I slacken the high pressure fuel pipes that attach to the injectors, there is no pressure. The car starts when I spray “easy start” into air box. But doesn’t start normally. I then took out glow plugs and checked if they were wet (to prove if fuel is entering chamber from injectors) then I found that cylinder 1,2,3 is dry glow plugs. And cyclinder 4 is wet. Possibly I am thinking injector 4 is stuck open? But how would this happen when all I did is take them out and clean them? But maybe this happened when I cranked without bleeding? The exhaust camshaft lobes is also worn when I checked. But car was running before. Also I wanted to ask. Does this deisel CX5 have an in tank fuel pump? Or is there just a float in tank? As maybe I have damaged the in tank pump??
Hi Leon, you have no pump in the fuel tank anyway. I don’t believe it is airlocked, if no.4 is wet. Injectors can be very particular about and dirt particles getting inside them, so hopefully that didn’t happen when they were removed 🤞🤞 Is your car manual ?? Could you try a tow start?? Did you by any chance remove the MAP sensor for a look when at it ?? I done this once on an assessment & a piece of carbon fell into the intake manifold and got stuck underneath intake valves. I had an awful job to get it going again 😬😬
@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for prompt reply Peter. You are correct. I realised this car has no filler pump in tank. Only has a fuel sending unit (I.e a float) Yes car is a manual 2.2D skyactive And. Yes I did clean the intake manifold too and actually replaced the old MAP sensor because the old one was worn and broke when I attempted to undo it. I did this all on the same day. But I removed the intake manifold and cleaned it before putting it back on the car. I also made sure intake valves where closed on engine side when cleaning. I have already tested spraying some easy start into air box and car starts up and runs straight away. So wouldn’t that prove that my intake valves are not stuck? Reason I think airlock is because only one high pressure fuel pipe (I.e metal pipes that go from fuel rail to injectors) contains pressure. Cylinder 4 has pressure while the other 3 just dribble when you loosen the nut on the pipe. My problem is that I do not know how to prime the fuel system properly without an in tank fuel pump. As seems the only pump it has (I.e high pressure pump on engine) only moves with the camshaft when cranking. Is there a way to contact you on Facebook or something to explain. 🙈 I’ve been stuck with car not running almost a week now. And it’s my daily family car 😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks Peter. Seems I needed to bleed from fuel return nipple on fuel distributor (the little Y shaped thing before the fuel pump). Did that and worked like a charm.
How often should you replace the washers? Mazda have said since the washers were replaced with the revised version they no longer need to be replaced. I think this is not true but I wanted your opinion. I have done 70 thousand km on the new washers now and I’m thinking its time.
I believe around every 120,000kms & the camshaft’s seem to fail around that mileage too. So well worth removing the rocker cover when at it for a look 😉👍👍👍
There is no way of preventing the Exhaust Camshaft from wearing, it is just a design flaw. As for the injector washers & pipes, I re-use them all the time with no side effects 😉😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you. Also I confirm that from factory the injector brackets sit with the larger hole on the right as you look at the engine standing from the front of the vehicle
Did you mean ‘ the injector brackets’ break after 3-4 kms ?? If so they are just being over tightened, they are only 2 Nm + 90* Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞
Jesus fking christ on a candystick purging the air out of this crd injector system is hell on earth. Been at it for close to 16hrs now, and i just cant get the car to prime, no matter how much fuel i pull up using the nozzle on the lower crd rail top.
Received error code for injector. When replacing the injector notes that the injector seat (hole) is oval (not round) in the engine block, tips for dealing with it? Do you have to replace the engine block or the entire engine (faster) or is there is a the smart solution, find nothing when I search online, according to Mazda one an engine replacement costs 108% of the car's value. This is a problem with Mazda 2012-2016 if I understand. Mazda globally seems to have no sensible economic solution, other than selling a new engine that costs more than the car = more economical to scrap the Mazda ☹ Does anyone know why it becomes oval against Washer Seal under the injector, it looks like the pressure has been blasting away material under high pressure for a long time. Even the Seal under the injector was oval = same size as the hole under = leaking. The hole towards the cylinder (lower part) looks circular, but the upper part to the top towards the gasket itself, is oval. That is, half the hole is oval on one side, but on the top side. The oval part is the size of half the material in the cylinder hole/gasket.
Once the injector washers fail it allows air movement ( ie. the combustion gases are travelling up by the side ) this creates heat and burns the injector hole. You possibly need a cylinder head 😬😬😬
Great video Peter, but I must tell you that you are using the incorrect torque sequence for the injectors. The injectors washers that you removed have already had the silver washers, which are the modified type. If these are torqued according to procedure, I have never seen them to leak and I have done hundreds of these. The procedure that you used was the old procedure for the copper washers, you will need to follow the modified procedure for the silver washer and you will also need to buy the modified injector clamp nuts to enable you to do the procedure correctly. The silver washers have a higher crush point and the injector bracket is used as a fulcrum between the front and back bolts this creates varying degrees of pressure and you need the right pressure or it will leak again.
Wow, great information. What are the up dated torque settings??? I will post it in the description for others to use. And isn’t it crap that the online updated version of Autodata didn’t know of this information 😤.
Hi, I'm planning to change these washers on my 2.2d 2014 92k miles. Can you share torque for the nuts and also type of modified nuts required . Much appreciated
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi, would you be a le to advise?? Or should I just proceed with you instruction as new torque setting and new nuts are not needed?? Thank you
@@stepancermak7215 if you are able to get the new torque settings I would advise to use them. But I use the ones I have still & haven’t had any issues, it is quite an easy job but good luck with it 👍
They possibly were but I replace them every time I remove & refit the injectors. Which I do very often when replacing camshafts etc. It might be overkill but just what I do, cheers Rob 🙏🙏🙏
So hand tighten all nuts Tighten nut A to 2nm Then slacken nut A by 90 degrees Then nut B tighten 2nm Then tighten (not slacken ) nut B by 230 degrees ? And nothing more ? Thanks in advance . You'd think nut A wouod now be loose lol
I’m editing a video at the moment where I had to change the oil strainer a second time. After only 30mls, I changed the oil pressure control solenoid first & then was left with no other option than the strainer again 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ The second strainer did fix my problem
@@kennedysgarage3281 root cause was injector 1 problematic and seals never refreshed, issue reoccurred after 1800 euro worth or work ,not a happy camper
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That was a dream job Peter, normally as you know in our job we have so many injectors that do not budge , great job , Dave will like the Amazon shop link 👍👍👍
Some good stuff in there & priced very well too. Easy ones can be few and far between alright. It makes a change for me , cheers Mike 🙂👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 yep , I've purchased some stuff off there last month , very reasonable prices and decent stuff , cheers Peter , have a great Christmas and New Year 🎅🎅🎅👍👍👍
@@mikeberry304 many happy returns Mike 🎄🎄😉
If all injectors came out that easily.Good video yet again Peter.
The hard bit is yet to come it needs an exhaust camshaft 😤😉
Hi Peter ,you made that look easy ,I've just been into Mazda. those 4 injectors are a grand each without fitting ,ill be replacing with ones that don't come in the Mazda logo box🤣.
They should be around €400 each 😉🙏🙏
Nice clear and precise as usual 👌
Thank you Wackey 🙏. And have a Happy Christmas & a prosperous New Year 🎄🎄👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Peter happy new year and I wish your family a very happy new year aswell thank you
Well done. Excellent video, I could remove on my own the injectors. Thank you, regards from Athens Hellas.
Yes, the injectors are easy to remove but rocker cover removal might be needed if they were leaking bad. But all in all relatively easy job. Fantastic to have someone from Athens watching, thank you so much and the very best of luck with the job 🤞🤞🙏🙏🙏
Topman me and my mechanic gonna do this 2mro superb points made when putting back 👏
I’m glad that it helped & the very best of luck with the job 🤞🤞👍
No rest….even on Christmas Day Peter!!!
Great video and couldn’t have come at a better time for my project. I’m thinking I’ll go a step further and remove the cover to see if/what damage lurks for my wagon as it has shown the P06DE error code..I just hope the damage isn’t already done ☹️😞🤔
I’m changing the exhaust camshaft on this one due to a P0101 & P0102 air flow code. I’m waiting on parts but should have it uploaded by 10th jan if any help.
But well worth looking under the cover 🤔👍
Cheers Damien
Brilliant, good job 👍
Thank you 🙏🙏
Great video ❤
Thank you sir 🙏🙏
Today i put engine in a one piece. 2 injector seal was broken. So i need to wash everything in cylinder head. Tomorrow is a test drive.
@@DrFixxer well done mate 💪💪
Was the exhaust camshaft good, I find it worn on 90% of the engines i received 😬😬
Greetings from norway 🙋So many thanks for your videos! Have helped me alot on my mazda 6 2013 2.2d (101500 km)👌👌
It started with watchin a video of you taking out the map sensor, became interested myself and of course the sensor on my car looked like a cone of carbon.
Then i did the intake carbon cleaning, extremely clogged up, could only fit a finger through the holes between all the carbon build up. On my first test drive after, the car suddenly started to jump like a kangaroo! Was impossible to bulid up speed and almost couldnt get home 😬🙈 after saying to myself im an idiot and shouldnt have done tried this i calmed down and checked the enginebay, the hose just before the intercooler had popped completely off 😂😂 shouldn't have had those beers when assembling everything the night before 😂😂😂 drove perfectly after that 👌👌
After that I checked the exhaust pressure sensor with Forscan, read only 70 kpa on koeo, but pressure did increase/decrease when monitoring it when driving. Dont exactly know how it did, because it was COMPLETELY impossible to blow down through the metal pipe. Got the thing out after watching your video about it (really freaking hard to get enough space to remove the screws btw😅) After two hours with alot of miscellaneous things, wire, strips etc attached to my drill i managed to get it unclogged, and fitted back to the car with the new version of the sensor. Now it reads correctly ca 100 kpa on koeo and i can clearly see pressure both rising an falling alot quicker when monitoring it driving also. (Probably was a microsopic hole left in it before) 🤷
So yesterday i decided to do the injector washers, and at the same time taking of the rocker cover and check the exhaust cams. Everything went smooth, injectors came up easy and the original copper washers looked fine actually (changed them of course with new silver ones). No exhaust gases had leaked and under the rocker cover everything looked nice thankfully. The oil shower pipes was clear, including the little holes in it. EXCEPT the exhaust cams, which was wore down probably 2.5 mm.
Have you ever openened one of these things without finding worn exhaustcams??
Anyway, I put everything together (didnt change the exhaustcam, need to order it first with new lifters)
But now to my question if you have time to answer 😊
The car wont start now, probably air in the fuel system 🤷 tried loosing one of the nuts on the injector pipe closest to timing belt side just as i have watched you done, and have cranked probably 6 times now. (10 seconds cranking, with breaks inbetween and tried many times tightening again, trying to start) Have not seen any any diesel coming out of the pipe yet 🤔
Do you need to crank alot of times and try again and again? Have the impression you only do it "a couple" of times and it always starts up fine 😂 I probably used 10x the time doing this than you do and messing about with things so more air have entered the system maybe?
Anyways hope you have time to answer (this became a very long read😂)and again thanks for all the videos you put out. Have become my main things to watch when having free time, and also when i am working on my car, great entertainment and learning 👌👌
-Thor
Got it running again!
Made a frankenstein sucktion pump out of a syringe, bicyclepump, jam jar and lots of garden hose attachments and various hoses.😅 Sucked the air out of the small pipe right side top of engine where you can remove a black rubber cap untill only fuel appeared in the hose.
Then I opened the nut on the injectors one by one and cranking in between.
Also did a injector calibration with Forscan after.
Car drives so much nicer now than before i did all the repairs! Only the exhaustcam left to do now, had the turbo replaced last year at a workshop after it broke. Would have tried to replace it myself now if it had broken today, was crazy expensive..
Well done Thor, you don’t everything absolutely perfect 💪💪💪
If you leave the fuel system disconnected overnight it can become a whole lot harder to bleed & we do exactly as you done. Bleed it through the little black cap 👏👏
I have only once ever for a good camshaft on disassembly, they are worn on every one of them after 120,000 kms . But very well done on achieving this repair, hats of to you 🎩
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks! 😁 felt really good once it fired up! When things are not working right away I always start thinking i messed up somehow 😂
I have orderd the camshaft, both kind of rockers (8 total) and new hydraulic tappets(im changing everything now once im in there😅), very excited to recieve it.
One last question(s) if you dont mind; I watched a video on Deise Diagnostics's channel(one of your guys?).
th-cam.com/video/V8Gct8gandg/w-d-xo.html
@@thorels that is Alan who works for me 😂😂
The best advice I can give is to just ignore the valves. They can get tight very often but only get opened 3 or 4 mm by the new camshaft & they engine sounds awful on first cranking. (ie. No compression whatsoever, but it will come back slowly. 1 cylinder at at time ) just keep cranking for couple of minutes.
We were removing the cylinder head off the CX5 in Alan’s videos anyway 😉😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 Just coming back to say thanks again, I have now successfully replaced the camshaft, tappets and rockers 😅👌Took of the intake camshaft just to inspect it also, but everything looked like new.
Also replaced lower front control arms on both sides as one side had the ball joint broken.
As you said it sounded terrible on first 2 - 3 cranks, almost like it was struggling to rotate the engine.
Of course i got the stomach churning feeling a few seconds/minutes as I thought I had over tightened something (did torque down all bolts to spec) before it suddenly returned to normal, idle stabilized and sounded better than ever. 😁
Maybe you could include the first startups in one of your videos so that people dont have a heart attack when reparing this by themselves 🤣🤣
If someone else are going to do this repair or replacing injector washers, valve cover gasket etc, it really helped me this time to first bleed out the air from the fuel system where the black cap is before starting to crank and then have the lines open at injectors. The fuel lines was off maybe 3 days and i had no problems getting fuel to the injectors.
All in all, great experience to do this all by myself and not extremely difficult if you're not afraid to take things apart. Before this i had only done basic brake pad/disc changes and various suspension parts.
Next up is probably the vacuum pump, the pressure comes down to 7.6 kPa after pumping the brake pedal at idle, in twice the amount of time compared to your other video after you replaced it. But i have no fault codes or trouble braking so will wait a bit :)
Cheers!
Loving all the Mazda 6 video's Peter.
I know so much more about the engine and the common problems due to your videos.
What is your labour rate? Going to see if it is worth my while coming down from Dublin to get a few bits done
I would have cars coming from Dublin & further afield on a constant basis. It only 1 hour & 30 minutes away. Google Kennedys garage & give me a call to run through any issues you are having. I could give overall guide prices then 😉👍👍👍👍
Best tutorials on TH-cam, maby I’m biased as an Irish man, Peter where do you get your Mazda parts, I’m an amateur and have been working off eBay so far long wait times and second hand thanks for all the videos
I get a lot of my parts from the dealership, especially injector washers, camshaft’s & vacuum pumps. I’m glad you liked my videos and thank you so much Chris 🙏🙏
brill thanks buddy
Your welcome & thanks for watching 🙏🙏👍
Since i started using better quality fuel the injector numbers are better than before 😂
Good job Peter, your videos have great info. When you use that seat tool do you need to remove any swarf some how?
We usually just blow in some compressed air, get to get any residue from the injector seats. But it’s not something you should need to worry about too much 😉👍👍
Hi peter great video i was kind of a bit scared to do this job on mine but after watching definetly feel more confident about doing it :) mine is 2017 sportnav 2.2d whose injectors you removed came offf so easy every story i have heard they are pain in the asss to romove from other cars what millage was on this car? im on 66000 miles and thinking of changin the washers on my incjetors ..
thanks tom
I have encountered ones that were too bad as of yet. You can use the 2 bolts at each side of the injector bracket to raise the bracket and pull up the injector. Be sure to unscrew the bolts evenly though & you will need a very small torx socket 🤞🤞💪💪
It looks like they were replaced before, because they are originally assembled yellow copper and these are silver upgrades! But well done anyway!!
Yes Lukasz I did mention that they had been replaced but I had no record of the work being done so I replaced them again anyway. Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment 😉👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Upgrade? So the silver ones are better than the copper ones?
Hi Peter, I have a 2016 Mazda 6 tourer with 138k KMS and FSH. Only problem so far is turbo replacement 3 months ago. How often do these injector washers need to be replaced? Or is it a case of checking the sump gauze first? I might have to take my holidays in Waterford this year 😀
Sorry for the delayed response Michael I only now have seen the comment 😞
Did they find the reason for the turbo failing??
This normally happens due to oil starvation. If they found an oil feed pipe blocked or something else all that s ok but if not you might need to consider the gauze sooner rather than later 😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 A rivet had broken off the turbo, there was no acceleration up to 2500 rpm. As regards the injector washers is there a recommended time to replace or is it a case of checking the gauze?
@@michaelcurley8764 I meant to say before but usually replaced around 150,000 kms. But they are quite easy to do so some people get them replaced when getting the car serviced. If not too carboned up it should cost €250 - €300
@@kennedysgarage3281 local garage quoted me 111 for 3 seal replacements which isn't bad but prices here may be different . In UK. I've got my washers inc the instruction to do it . I've been tempted on doing it myself a few times they have nor long been out as head gasket was done so know they shouod come out no issues .
I listened to them today woth stethoscope and the newest injector sounds crisp cylinder 1 . Cylinder 3 not so bad either. 2 and 4 sound noisier or at least not scrimp like the other 2 . I wonder of theure a bit poor . I'm hoping injectors aren't knackered but I guess I'd prob get misfire if Amy were bad. ?
Either way I guess doing them wouod give piece of mind . The part that gets me is the torquing up pattern. I guess I read a few more times it'll all make sense . As ot shows markings etc all od need is a kit to clean seats and bores and an additional torque wrench as all 3 of mine . Lowest is 5nm so no good
Thanks buddy
I have never in my time seen injectors come up and out so easily. They must have been lubed by that engine oil. Is the rocker gasket leaking all that oil into the injector hole ??
No Chris, the seals on top under the injector clamp is to stop oil leaking out but under that seal the injector is open. So in essence the oil does get in and around the body of the injector. If that makes sense 🤔
But yes they did come out nice and easy, I would think they were done quite recently by the looks of them. I am actually replacing the exhaust camshaft on it so you will get to see it in more detail soon 😉
Have a 2016 cx5 with the 2.2d. currently have no issues with the seals, but would it be worth changing the seals? Not even sure if my year of model will have the copper seals in it. Cheers
Renewing the injector washers is a really good preventative maintenance repair & I would most definitely advise it 😉👍👍👍
Hi Kennedy
I have a question if you can answer it of course
I replaced all four injectors in my car but I can not find a way to program them with their unique code
I used the original software ids and my lunch diagnostic tool as well and they both doesn't have that function
So the only programming that I've done is the injectors correction
Do you have any idea if it needs a special tool to program them or this procedure is enough
Thanks
Denis
If your scan tools don’t have the option for it & once it drives ok with the new injectors with just injector correction done, I think it will be fine. The PCM does adjust the flow rating over long drive cycles & it will be fine 👍🙏
@Kennedy’s garage
It looks like it is because it's driving very smooth and nice after this job exept the injector holders wich the two of four broke in the middle after a week...omg
Thank you so much Kennedy you have very big patience to do those video really!
@@denislevoskin2147 thank you Denis & happy Christmas 🙏🙏🎄🎄
Hi Peter, question. How many types of those engines are there? 2.2d? I mean in how many series it is produced. I heard that since 2016, all the problems with that engine have been removed. I wonder if that is true? Cheers mate 🍻
Correct, they changed the engine design in 2016 and it became available in most 2017 on model’s. Most of the common failures we resolved then 😉👍👍👍
Nice work! What does such a repair approximately cost?
It depends on the garage hourly rate but it takes around 4 hours to do correctly. It is also worth changing the oil if they were leaking 🙏👍👍
I did not put a ring on the nozzle, I just put it in the mine.And especially the fitting on the fuel pump, look. black cap to bleed air from the system
Thank you 🙏 🙏
Hi bud do you know to access the oxygen sensor on mazda6 2.2skyactiv-d 175 and the location? And also is the oxygen sensors for the 175 bhp and 150 bhp the same? Many thanks mate
There are 2 in the exhaust system, 1st is up close to the turbo & the 2nd is after the Dpf. They will be the only sensor’s in the exhaust with 5 wires 👍
There are 2 in the exhaust system, the 1st is up at the turbo & 2nd is after the Dpf. They have 5 wire’s & the 150 & 175 bhp are the same 👍🙏
The for the reply I really appreciate it
Does it’s affect the performance of the washer if the little leg that holds it together breaks?
The leg on the leak back pipe washers??
If so, absolutely not at all. That little leg just saves the individual washers falling off 😉👍👍👍
Thanks a lot for the video , is the oil that came out around the Injectors normal ? or was it a sign the cam cover gasket leaking or is that ok ?
The injector shaft is normally clean but oily. It is when they are covered in hard carbon that you need to be worried about the oil strainer being semi blocked 😉👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 I see yes I’ve heard once the injector washers fail the fuel and combustion gases turns the cam area into sludge and pour it all around the System but I can see you know all about these- I worked in a Mazda dealer when the RX7’s had just been released and wow that was a fun wankel ( rotary ) engine to drive in …very fast and great sound ..
@@tmautosstaustellcornwall5882 they were and still are really popular with the boy racers. Fantastic piece of engineering
Did you found the part number of these injector nozzles? On some forums these Denso injectors were faulty and had to be replaced, but new 4 of them would cost 4k € or more. I was wondering if it's possible to change only the nozzles as it would cost much less.
These injectors cannot be disassembled & repaired. They are around €400 each, so should be under 2k for 4 injectors.
The only word of caution I must mention is that the exhaust camshaft wear in these very often and cause similar symptoms. It might be worth taking a look at it. Also you could replace the injector washers when doing it 🤔🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281I already checked the injectors in a specialized center on the bench, by removing all 4 and then replacing the cooper washers with the grey ones.
Both camshaft and EGR are on my suspect list now
@@ploughable they are really common failure points, good luck with it 🤞🤞
how do you crank the engine to get the air out metal fuel lines thanks
Just loosen 1 of the 17mm fuel line nuts on an injector & then crank the engine over until you see diesel leaking from it. This just allows the air somewhere to go, then tighten it again & up it should go 🤞🤞🤞
Good morning Kennedy, my name is Stefano. I'm writing to you from Italy.
I saw your video about policing the injector locations.
I should do the same job on my Mazda 6 Sky Active. I wanted to ask you what type of cutters you used for cleaning and smoothing the injector seats.
If you can help me or share a link on Amazon about this kind of equipment.
Hello and thanks Stefano
Hi Stefano, injector washers do fail on these very regularly and are well worth doing. This is an Amazon link that I copied and pasted for injector seat cutting tool. Hopefully it helps you out 🤞🤞
amzn.eu/d/244ilQY
What grease did you use to hold the washers
I use any kind of grease, just to hold the washers in place while dropping in the injectors. It has no sealing value whatsoever. Thanks for watching & commenting, hopefully this helps 🙏👍
Alright mate I'm having similar problem i think. I have a 2011 2.2 113000 miles and it smokes intermittently. When I park up and leave it idle car revs jump up and smoke clears. Sometimes on motorway it's there sometimes not. Mostly when get down to normal speeds. I've only had car two month and it's happened three times now lasting couple of days then no smoke for maybe 10 days.
I would suggest the intake manifold decarb & injector washer replacement is a good place to start. These are very common to fail 🤞🤞👍👍
Hi Peter firstly I love all your videos on the mazda 6's they are so informative.
I have a 2016 2.2d that I recently bought. Car has had De coke from Mazda new Map and Maf sensors. They have also completed a pcm update and oil change
This has helped with the issue I was having with the MPG. However I am noticing that the regen on the DPF is activating every 56 miles regardless of whether it is on motorway or not. I've heard stories about enlarged nozels on injectors. But also exhaust back pressure sensor but mine is the updated metal one.
I have forscan and everything looks as it should as far as I can tell but wondered if you had come across this and what may have been the issue.
Hi David, I’m delighted that you enjoyed my videos 🙏🙏
Generally the car ECU only triggers Dpf regeneration when it sees the ‘exhaust back pressure being higher that it wants’.
It then starts a regeneration on the presumption that it is soot/particulate.
Now DPF’s can also build up ash residue in them that cannot be gotten rid of by a regeneration. High ash content normally happens around 200,000 kms.
The car will keep trying to clean the Dpf over & over, possibly what is happening 🤔🤔
If so an off vehicle Dpf cleaning is the only solution, make sure the pressure sensor is reading accurately first.
Hopefully this will help 🤞👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi Peter thankyou so much for the response. Which makes so much sense.
Shortly after buying the car I had an on car DPF clean. As part of that it came with a diagnostic. The chap said that following his work it was showing approx 4% Ash content so I'm hoping that is the case and that the DPF is not the issue.
I'm leaning more towards the exhaust back pressure sensor (bank2 I think it's classed as). Prior to the clean it was showing a reading of 20 but I don't know what the 20 related to this was whilst the engine was off. He said that this meant the ecu was thinking the dpf is partly full and it start the regenerations earlier. Even after the clean it was still showing a reading meaning of 12 so his theory seems to be sound. When mazda had the car they said the sensor was fine and from what I can see it wasn't changed but I don't know if the de-coke extended to the metal pipe that runs behind the block. On forscan the sensor shows a reading of around 100Kpa which I believe is in line with atmospheric pressure but then rises under acceleration to a max of around 3-400kpa with the car stood. It's so difficult as there are not many guides to sensor max /min values to help. I saw your video where you changed the pipe that was clogged leading to that sensor so wondering if that may also be a contributing factor.
I may just bite the bullet and get a sensor. For that sake of £70 it may just do the trick. Potentially that may help in seeing if the pipe too is blocked. He also recommended changing the metal pipework too. I'm definately a DIYist and wouldn't want to shear a nut but maybe worth checking it and then going from there.
@@davidravensdale651 did you replace the sensor and did it make a difference? My car also regens after every 60 odd miles
Mine too and it’s driving me nuts.
@davidravensdale651 any joy buddy. I had noticed my regens almost stop with higher grade fuel in it ... hence why I'm sire its injectors. 1 was new around 1.5 tears ago got 1 new herecto to go in . So wouod only need 2 more . But trying to find a tool that will do coding ?
Hi mate love ya vods as isual i kkow ive commented here before but bekieve i need new injectors 1 was new over a year ago git 1 at home new 2 to go . Hope to do it kysekf ive got a reaming kit . But any coding device you recommend ? As id need to code new ones in ? Tjanl you pal ..
Amd b is the 2nm and 90° clockwise nut B (left ) is the 2nm amd 270 anticlockwise ? Ty again
Hy
I have cx 5 2.2 2013
Obd erorr
P062B Internal Control Module Fuel Injector control performance.
Any ideea.
On dasboard
Light esp and check engine.
Thanks!
I have not come across that, but it is the 2nd comment this morning talking about ECU failure.
Check all the engine & ECU earth straps ??
Are you in Ireland??
Hiya Peter, Great content! I have a big question. I have a 2.2d skyactive CX-5 and recent took off fuel injectors to change seals and clean them. I now put it all back together and tried to crank without bleeding system (as I forgot). Then wouldn’t start. So then I realised and bled around 1 lucazade bottle of fuel. Now there is no pressure building in fuel system as when I slacken the high pressure fuel pipes that attach to the injectors, there is no pressure.
The car starts when I spray “easy start” into air box. But doesn’t start normally.
I then took out glow plugs and checked if they were wet (to prove if fuel is entering chamber from injectors) then I found that cylinder 1,2,3 is dry glow plugs. And cyclinder 4 is wet.
Possibly I am thinking injector 4 is stuck open? But how would this happen when all I did is take them out and clean them? But maybe this happened when I cranked without bleeding?
The exhaust camshaft lobes is also worn when I checked. But car was running before.
Also I wanted to ask. Does this deisel CX5 have an in tank fuel pump? Or is there just a float in tank? As maybe I have damaged the in tank pump??
Hi Leon, you have no pump in the fuel tank anyway. I don’t believe it is airlocked, if no.4 is wet. Injectors can be very particular about and dirt particles getting inside them, so hopefully that didn’t happen when they were removed 🤞🤞
Is your car manual ??
Could you try a tow start??
Did you by any chance remove the MAP sensor for a look when at it ??
I done this once on an assessment & a piece of carbon fell into the intake manifold and got stuck underneath intake valves. I had an awful job to get it going again 😬😬
@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for prompt reply Peter. You are correct. I realised this car has no filler pump in tank. Only has a fuel sending unit (I.e a float)
Yes car is a manual 2.2D skyactive
And. Yes I did clean the intake manifold too and actually replaced the old MAP sensor because the old one was worn and broke when I attempted to undo it.
I did this all on the same day. But I removed the intake manifold and cleaned it before putting it back on the car.
I also made sure intake valves where closed on engine side when cleaning.
I have already tested spraying some easy start into air box and car starts up and runs straight away. So wouldn’t that prove that my intake valves are not stuck?
Reason I think airlock is because only one high pressure fuel pipe (I.e metal pipes that go from fuel rail to injectors) contains pressure.
Cylinder 4 has pressure while the other 3 just dribble when you loosen the nut on the pipe.
My problem is that I do not know how to prime the fuel system properly without an in tank fuel pump.
As seems the only pump it has (I.e high pressure pump on engine) only moves with the camshaft when cranking.
Is there a way to contact you on Facebook or something to explain. 🙈 I’ve been stuck with car not running almost a week now.
And it’s my daily family car 😬
@@LeonAngus just google Kennedysgarage.ie and you’ll find me.
Try tow starting it too. It will overcome any carbon or fuel issues 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks Peter. Seems I needed to bleed from fuel return nipple on fuel distributor (the little Y shaped thing before the fuel pump). Did that and worked like a charm.
@@LeonAngus well done Leon 💪💪
How often should you replace the washers? Mazda have said since the washers were replaced with the revised version they no longer need to be replaced. I think this is not true but I wanted your opinion. I have done 70 thousand km on the new washers now and I’m thinking its time.
I believe around every 120,000kms & the camshaft’s seem to fail around that mileage too. So well worth removing the rocker cover when at it for a look 😉👍👍👍
Is there any way to prevent the camshaft from wearing out? Seems like it will be an expensive job.
Also do the fuel pipes and nuts need to be replaced when replacing the washers? Are these one use item or can they be reused.
There is no way of preventing the Exhaust Camshaft from wearing, it is just a design flaw.
As for the injector washers & pipes, I re-use them all the time with no side effects 😉😉
Sir I have a Mazda 3 1.6 diesel 2006 having fuel injector ticking is it a rubber replacement?
Is your injector leaking?? Or a ticking noise coming from the engine??
@@kennedysgarage3281 Not all the time mostly when idling top head is slightly wet from engine oil thought it could be valve tappets.
@@pabloflorio4349 unfortunately it is near impossible to advise without hearing or seeing the vehicle 😞
@@kennedysgarage3281 Ok understand thanks anyway 👍
How is it determined that the sealing washers need replacing?
Unfortunately only by removing the injectors and examining the injector bodies 😔😔
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you. Also I confirm that from factory the injector brackets sit with the larger hole on the right as you look at the engine standing from the front of the vehicle
@@TrailVapor handy to know, cheers mate 👍👍
Found it
hello !
the injector breakers break every time after 3-4km, I don't know why, can you help me?
Did you mean ‘ the injector brackets’ break after 3-4 kms ??
If so they are just being over tightened, they are only 2 Nm + 90*
Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281
they say " 2nm + 230° on 1 of both no?
@@ewenewen0146 tighten then evenly by hand & torque both. You are correct on the settings 😬
what size engine is this
2.2 Skyactive
Is Intermittent
Jesus fking christ on a candystick purging the air out of this crd injector system is hell on earth. Been at it for close to 16hrs now, and i just cant get the car to prime, no matter how much fuel i pull up using the nozzle on the lower crd rail top.
Is your car manual or automatic??
@@kennedysgarage3281 auto. Succeded after draining about 2 batteries worth of charge.
@@bakakun well done mate 💪💪💪
Received error code for injector. When replacing the injector notes that the injector seat (hole) is oval (not round) in the engine block, tips for dealing with it? Do you have to replace the engine block or the entire engine (faster) or is there is a the smart solution, find nothing when I search online, according to Mazda one an engine replacement costs 108% of the car's value. This is a problem with Mazda 2012-2016 if I understand. Mazda globally seems to have no sensible economic solution, other than selling a new engine that costs more than the car = more economical to scrap the Mazda ☹
Does anyone know why it becomes oval against Washer Seal under the injector, it looks like the pressure has been blasting away material under high pressure for a long time. Even the Seal under the injector was oval = same size as the hole under = leaking. The hole towards the cylinder (lower part) looks circular, but the upper part to the top towards the gasket itself, is oval. That is, half the hole is oval on one side, but on the top side. The oval part is the size of half the material in the cylinder hole/gasket.
Once the injector washers fail it allows air movement ( ie. the combustion gases are travelling up by the side ) this creates heat and burns the injector hole. You possibly need a cylinder head 😬😬😬
I don't even have a diesel car...😊
Nothing like a bit of knowledge, cheers Bastogne 😉🙏🙏🙏
Why arent both screws the same torque
Once they a tighten down evenly then both nuts are the same finishing torque 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks
@@jaykay7007 🙏🙏
How much are injectors
They are around €400 each 👍
Great video Peter, but I must tell you that you are using the incorrect torque sequence for the injectors.
The injectors washers that you removed have already had the silver washers, which are the modified type. If these are torqued according to procedure, I have never seen them to leak and I have done hundreds of these.
The procedure that you used was the old procedure for the copper washers, you will need to follow the modified procedure for the silver washer and you will also need to buy the modified injector clamp nuts to enable you to do the procedure correctly.
The silver washers have a higher crush point and the injector bracket is used as a fulcrum between the front and back bolts this creates varying degrees of pressure and you need the right pressure or it will leak again.
Wow, great information. What are the up dated torque settings???
I will post it in the description for others to use. And isn’t it crap that the online updated version of Autodata didn’t know of this information 😤.
@@kennedysgarage3281 send on your email and I will send on the correct torque sequence. You will also need the modified injector nuts.
Hi, I'm planning to change these washers on my 2.2d 2014 92k miles. Can you share torque for the nuts and also type of modified nuts required . Much appreciated
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi, would you be a le to advise?? Or should I just proceed with you instruction as new torque setting and new nuts are not needed?? Thank you
@@stepancermak7215 if you are able to get the new torque settings I would advise to use them.
But I use the ones I have still & haven’t had any issues, it is quite an easy job but good luck with it 👍
They look like they have already been replaced. The original seals would have been copper and these don't look Cooper
They possibly were but I replace them every time I remove & refit the injectors. Which I do very often when replacing camshafts etc.
It might be overkill but just what I do, cheers Rob 🙏🙏🙏
So hand tighten all nuts
Tighten nut A to 2nm
Then slacken nut A by 90 degrees
Then nut B tighten 2nm
Then tighten (not slacken ) nut B by 230 degrees ?
And nothing more ?
Thanks in advance . You'd think nut A wouod now be loose lol
That is what Autodata says, I always give my own little squeeze on top of that to both 😬
90 degrees or so but that is just what I do 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks mate I've got the sheets to show this just wanted to be sure it's a side 1st cheers
Engine warning light gives way to low pressure warning after injectors flushed and new oil pump fitted. any advice? thanks
I’m editing a video at the moment where I had to change the oil strainer a second time. After only 30mls, I changed the oil pressure control solenoid first & then was left with no other option than the strainer again 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
The second strainer did fix my problem
@@kennedysgarage3281 root cause was injector 1 problematic and seals never refreshed, issue reoccurred after 1800 euro worth or work ,not a happy camper
@@johnnyboy4711 these engines can be very sensitive & won’t let you away with much 😬😬
Well done for getting to the end of it though John 💪💪💪
@@kennedysgarage3281 #1 injector needs replacing,then should be good hopefully,get another year and never buy a Japanese car again, 😂
@@johnnyboy4711 🤞🤞🤞