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I quote you ." Not the easiest of numbers while holding a camera " . Big respect my friend for doing that for us. 👍
I could do with ‘3 hand washing up liquid’ if you can remember that phrase. Was it fairy or something 😂😂 Thanks again Chris 🙏
By far the best tutorial guide on these engines I have found brilliant thanks 😊
I must do another as this one is quite old and I’m far more fluent at them nowadays, but thank you 🙏🙏
Amazing video, thank you very much for taking the time and effort to do it. Just after replacing the strainer (chain snapped), old strainer was very clean but replaced it as a precaution, 118k miles 2016 mazda 6 first owner, remapped from day 4, with DPF and EGR still in place. After the first 3 services with dealer, i serviced it every 7-8k miles as well as wynn engine flush everytime.
Got upper sprocket shipped instead of the lower one so will have to wait on the lower sprocket till i can assemble it.
If it is the OE chain you could reassemble it without replacing the pulley. They don’t really wear. Just the original pulley would match the chain. I have another video on replacing the chain & big end bearings if needed. I’ll copy and paste it 👍
th-cam.com/video/8ywo9tkBO78/w-d-xo.htmlsi=atzCMdpjvpfRL6i-
That's a pain in the backside to change ,what genius at Mazda came up with that idea ,nice job and well explained ,my 6 is at the garage at the mo,low oil pressure and no acceleration out of the blue.
Fingers crossed it won’t be anything too major & yes it is a slight pain in the backside to have to remove everything in the sump for 1 bolt 🤦♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks,hope so too,I'll keep you posted.
@@kennedysgarage3281 Mechanic just told me he cant look at the car for 6 weeks as hes had to let go one of his employees ,now to find someone else who can do it in less time.
What mileage is it recommended to renew the strainer Peter? Thanks
Peter you are a true professional with such clearly, detailed and methodically explained steps…My 2.2 Mazda 3 (I only just bought with 170k km) and did a de-carboning on all the air intakes, including valves cleaning, has, as I expected the DPF light still flashing and engine management and today on its first test drive since the cleaning I noticed the yellow exclamation with an error code of P06DE. This came on when everything had warmed up…and since I don’t know the cars history I’m going to do the gauze and the injector seals. Your video could not have come at a better time. Eventually I’ll do a forced regen but not until I’m happy with oil pressure…Thank you for all your work on these videos. So much appreciated 👍🏻👏🏻
The P06DE fault is an oil pressure fault code so I would agree with renewing the oil strainer first. Let me know how you get on Damien 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 Nothing further to report just yet Peter but I did remove the sump pan and the filter looked to be ok but I’m still going to go ahead and change it out. Also injectors are out and in both cases someone has been here before. I’ve now also removed the DPF for flushing with Wynns off car DPF cleaner but before I do this I need to remove the pesky O2 sensor and a stubborn No.2 temperature sensor from the DPF..so a visit to the local autofactors and then to the Mazda dealership for parts is on the agenda. This car has a history…I just don’t know what it is..but given that a mechanics marker fell out from one of the plastic guards underneath the bumper it certainly suggests previous issues….The investigations continue 🔎🕵️♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 Well Peter to give you the update…I did get the sump strainer but because it was so slow to arrive I reassembled everything but I do think the strainer looks clear..I will change it but not just now. DPF was a right pain..tried Wynns off car and also another on car spray but I wasn’t happy things were really any better so off with the DPF again and I brought it to a company that flushes DPF..all I can say is wow..it was sparkling inside when I collected it 2hrs after dropping it in…a highly recommended solution to a blocked DPF. The new injector seals are installed..used your Autodata info for tightening as they seemed to give a snug fit. Car now fully decarbonised. Seems to be running well now. In a months time or so I’ll do an engine flush.
For those interested in figures the DPF feedback was: differential pressure 13.6in w.c. Before 0.9 after; Airflow 40% before to 100% after. 170gms of soot/ash removed.
@@damienkearns9922 it all sounds very positive 👏👏
Well done Damien 😉👍
@@damienkearns9922 fair play to you buddy lots of witk there I've no dof lights but feel it could do with a good clean dud you notice less regens after this work ? I had all my intake cleaned but much more was done I.e. turbo kit head gasket rockers valve clean cams and more mostly top end cist a bomb . If it was just intake I'd have done it myself. I get an odd moan which was present before work was done not sure if it's egr related or not its odd. Only happens mostly at low revs and not stationary . Maybe at high speeds it's not noticeable through other wind noises etc . Pain this car again history isn't great
Really want to thank you for putting this video together and sharing. Having never done much like this after watching the video like 6times your clear explanation and method gave me the confidence to try it myself. Am currently waiting for the sump gasket to set, but have every confidence that the other work was done correctly. I just hope I put enough sealant on and it's not a waterfall 🤣. Again thank you very much
You're very welcome & I’m glad it helped, it isn’t that bad of a job just a bit scary if it’s you first time. Well done mate 👏👏👏👍👍
Let me know how it goes 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you for your reply. The sump doesn't appear to be leaking which I guess is a win 😀. After staring I only have 10psi of oil pressure at idle where before strip I had 20psi. After a gentle drive I had the light and errors come back 😭. I'm guessing there is still some crud somewhere. I am waiting on delivery of new injector seals, so I think I'll take rocker off at that point and clean with break cleaner. And change oil again. Any thoughts or comments on this will be greatly appreciated. Also I'm pretty sure the owners man doesn't mention anything on oil capacity. I put in 5ltr but appeared to need a drop more 🤷
@@1am570yl3z I wouldn’t be too concerned with the 10psi at idle, I have seen good engines to run the same pressure at idle.
I have also seen oil pressure too high due to oil pressure control solenoid working overtime when starved & once oil returns pressure surges.
Do another oil change after the dust settles & see where you end up 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 I have done another 2 engine flush and oil change as well as clean under the rocker cover and get PO6DE error. Idle oil pressure is still at around 10psi any suggestions, have also had someone point out the exhaust cam needs replacing 😭 I've not driven the car yet am starting to get really upset
@@1am570yl3z there is an oil pressure control solenoid to the rear of the engine just behind the timing belt above the r.h drive shaft. These can get stuck due to carbon also. I might be worth removing and cleaning 🤔
Wow what a walkthrough great job brotha, I can’t believe the pump filter is set up in such an idiotic way? I wish they would’ve built it like the transmission filter.
As much information given in this video I think this is where i have to take it to a professional. If you don’t mind me asking how much this type of work costs? How do I even word this to the dealer lol.
There are no problems with my oil pump I don’t think, it’s just preventative maintenance i want to do.
@@Username-es1iy hi mate, change the injector washers first. If they have been leaking it might suggest that you need to replace the oil strainer and oil pump timing chain. All of these items will cost around €1000
Nice and precise job well done. 👌🏾
If only we had someone who knows what they're doing down here in the West Midlands area!
Thank you 🙏 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 have yoo found any one who does it in the Midlands
@@KhanKhan-lw8fw I wouldn’t know any one there but hopefully Boomnite might have found someone & get back to you 🤞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 ok thanks bud really appreciated
You found any one
Great video, I am attempting the same job tomorrow.
How did you get on ??
I done another today too on a CX5 it’s not too bad of a job. The first is the most daunting 😱😱
@@kennedysgarage3281 yes it all went well and the car is back on the road.
The pick up was very badly blocked.
Thanks I couldn't have done the job without your video.
@@markhorsley8367 I’m glad it helped & well done to you 👏👏👏👍
2016 engine with 120k miles and it already needs that much work for a poxy oil strainer...it's bonkers stuff. Still great engine especially in the 3.
Excellent Peter you sure know your stuff
Thank you kind sir 🙏😉
I’m really just chancing my arm & hoping for the best 😬
Super job Peter.
Good explanation and video 👌
Thank you kind sir 🙏🙏🙏
So do these give problems? Why do they need changed? Bit of a job all the same. Thanks for the effort of showing this👍
Yes John, carbon buildup inside the engine blocks the gauze & cause’s the oil pressure to drop which can be detrimental to the engine bearings 😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 yes I seen from another of ur "cartoons" the injectors leak at the copper washer and rather than it leaking to the atmosphere it goes into the cam-box causing contamination. The joys of the modern diesel 🙈
I love ur stuff, I served my time as a mechanic back in the late 80s before moving to work in aircraft manufacturing. I do a wee bit at home here mostly just the family cars as a hobby. I loved the garage but the money was crap.
@@johnfittis5764 the crap money bit made me laugh 😂 😂
You were right to go into aircraft manufacturing, it sounds quite cool 😎
I’m glad you enjoy some of my videos. That is why I do it🙂
Cheers John 👍👍
Would have been nice if you opened the old strainer , timing chains are probably the biggest killer of these engines along with diluted oil from adblue , change oil every 5000km on these engines
I must do that on the next one, my one didn’t have Adblu but they do suffer from oil dilution due to diesel being injected on the exhaust stroke to increase exhaust temperature to achieve regeneration temperatures. Thanks Akai 🙏🙏
Jeez every 5k, prob 100 quid to do yourself. 250 in a garage. That's twice a year..oh what a pain.
Super job kid great to see crack
😂😂😂 there is no point in taking it too seriously .
Happy new year mate 🙏🙏🙏
I have the same problem 2020 mazda 3 P0524 fault code . I think is the oil pump too . Thank you show me very detail step !!
Wow, that’s the newest I’ve heard of going wrong. Is it still under warranty??
And this is why you should change oil every 10 000 km max. Also flush engine oil before oil change.
Correct 👍
Good job!!!❤️❤️❤️
It is a relatively easy job if you are going to tackle it 🙏🙏👍👍
Another good one 👍
It might help someday Trevor 🤔😉
Appparently there are two metal meshes within the oil pump and it has to be removed to get to them. Any idea where they are?
Yes, just remove the oil pump assembly and you will 2 little outlet and 2 O-rings on the top section where it bolts onto the engine block. They don’t come out, so just use some brake cleaner and compressed air 😉👍👍👍
Peter, thanks so much for all these Mazda6 videos - I'm having oil pressure issues with my own and they all really help to try and figure out what's going on with it. I had DPF issues with mine and have had the DPF fully removed and remapped, but still getting the occasional low oil pressure warning. Similar to another of your videos, my mechanic cleaned as much of the carbon deposits out, and changed the strainer etc. I saw you had a similar issue and a second replacement of the strainer seemed to resolve the low oil pressure. Would you recommend getting that done again along with the oil filter? I'm also getting P258B Vacuum pump error codes and only the other day my climate control fans have stopped working... I guess I'd also be interested to hear of you think it's worth persevering, or am I just throwing good money after bad at this stage.... 😟 Keep up the good work, super interesting to see your thought process and methods on this stuff.
Hey Shuggy, the oil issue is due to an injector washer failing. It’s the carbon from that that has blocked the oil strainer, has your mechanic removed the rocker cover and taken out the carbon buildup underneath that . If not he have to do that.
Have you had the intake manifold cleaned?? This is the cause of most Dpf related faults.
The exhaust camshaft wearing causes the vacuum pump to fail, steel shavings from it 🤷🏼♂️
Changing can be very expensive nowadays so I’d keep going if I was you. They are an exceptional car once fixed right.
@@kennedysgarage3281great stuff, thanks for the reply. As far as I know, intake manifold was cleaned when the DPF was removed, but will have them check those bits you mentioned also. Have it booked in for the vacuum pump to be replaced on Tuesday. Got one from Mazda dealer for 140 + VAT, thought it was gonna be worse tbh. They said they are cheaper than they used to be since they are having to replace so many… cx5 has a recall on the same part apparently. Would have had it dropped in to you if I wasn’t all the way up here in Donegal (honestly contemplated a road trip haha 😄) Thanks again for the info!
@@shuggy1001 I have heard of a recall on some models, but as you know it can be hard to get someone to say ‘yes’ to that 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Call down anytime, my brother owns a bar close by 🍻🍻
@@kennedysgarage3281Hi Peter - just one more question on my Mazda after speaking to you the other week - I bumped into the mechanic who did the original work (DPF removal, manifold clean, strainer replacement etc) and they said they also changed the injector seals as part of that work (approx 4 months ago I'd say). They did say they thought there was a fair amount of wear on the engine in their opinion. I guess my question now is whether that indicates a bigger issue and is it worth replacing the strainer and seals again - I would have thought if they were replaced along with the strainer I'd get longer out of it than that?
Am I right in thinking the injector seals that Mazda would have fitted in the factory when new are no longer the ones they use? When I originally had the DPF removed/manifold cleaned etc, the car drove great for approx a month before the oil pressure light started coming back on again, so I'm not sure if that gives any more hints?
@@shuggy1001 it can be vey difficult to answer when a car has a problem but the owner says that everything is good or replaced 🤔🤔🤔
The only fact is that the car has an oil pressure issue & the most common cause is oil strainer semi blocked.
The only way anyone can prove it good or bad is really only to disassemble and take a look.
The only other option is that a big end bearing is worn since the original fault and the oil pressure is escaping from there, but you should hear the engine knocking slightly 😬😬
Mazda olajszivattyú eltávolítása, P06DE
These engines are over engineered, no wonder they are so bad.great vid,if i ever do one (not)😂.
Eugh, my Mazda6 has an oil leak coming from the sump. Turns out when they last took it off the sheared a bunch of the bolt threads. It's some of the shallow ones you mentioned too. Cant seem to find anyone to fix it.
Are you based in Ireland by any chance??
Buy new ones can't be much pr check size and pitch
My engine light and engine on light have come on for the second time in the last 3000km for CX-5 2.2 Diesel. Last time it was fixed by replacing the engine oil.
This is also most likely to do with Dirty or Clogged Oil pump or Strainer.
I am getting error codes P055F and P0524.
Is there anything else i need to look other than Oil Strainer.
Changing the oil only temporarily helped increase the oil pressure.
The injector washers failing & leaking exhaust gas into the crankcase (carbon). This is what causes the strainer to block, so definitely replace the injector washers when doing the job 😉👍👍👍
Have u ever had one of these oil pumps apart for inspection. I've an engine that ran a big end bearing due to oil pump chain snapped. And my injectors where also blowing past the seals and ceased I the head. I'd rather dismantle my oil pump before buying a new one 1st as there while money new.
Oil pump chain snapped, ouch 😓
I have never on disassembled any further than the video, but I have never seen one to fail either. But either have I seen the chain to break, something to watch out for.
It shouldn’t be too hard to disassemble just start with a clean work area so parts are clean and in order. Good luck with it 🤞👍
RE: A Flush
Can you use engine flush in a diesel engine?
Engine flush products can offer some benefits to diesel engines. They can help oil flow more freely by clearing out deposits that may have ended up clogging some of the narrow oil passages. Once freed, the oil flows as freely as it should, saving wear and tear on the engine.
Historically I’ve been told no no no
Does this continue. Would it not remove some Carbonisation before taking sump off for strainer job.
Or do nothing but harm
I’m guessing answer be what I expect ????
Flush doesn’t do any harm but I just haven’t seen it to be very effective on breaking down the carbon that clogs the strainer 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks. I didn’t think could remove carbon crystals in any way myself. Maybe ok sludgy Petrol engine
hi Peter. I've recently done this job ,unfortunetly while removing sump ive managed to damage one of 2 orings where oil pump meets engine block.from my understanding 2 orings goes on 2 niples with groove around them on the pump itself.have you noticed any other orings on any of the pump balancer holes?
No, only the 2 small ones you mention. And they are fairly generic and are easily replaceable. Well done on doing this job mate 💪💪💪
Remove the injectors too, just to see if they are leaking combustion gas into crankcase. This is what causes the carbon buildup 😉👍👍👍
I have Mazda cx5 2016 diesel 2.2 175hp and my mehanic sad that chain on oil pump broke. I heard storys that even after you change the chain on oil pump that after few weeks or months engine dies. Is that true and how can I prevent it after changing the chain?
That is correct but most definitely avoidable. If the oil pump chain breaks the big end bearings run without any oil feed & can get slightly damaged. Just remove the big end bearings one by one to check or go ‘fail safe’ and renew them. Problem solved
I do it in this video
th-cam.com/video/8ywo9tkBO78/w-d-xo.htmlsi=M2wg01H1rNjWeLSS
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks a lot. And that's it or there is something more that needs to be done? And that big end bearings expensive
@@Imenijebitno108 that is the most common thing to fail after oil pressure loss. You must be precise on the repair, but that’s it 🤞🤞
Big end bearings are around €150 to €180
Hi are u able to split the strainer and clean replace the insides? Rather than taking the whole pump out?
No, unfortunately not. The strainer is all one piece & the oil pump must be separated from the balance shaft to remove one of the strainer retaining bolts 😬😬😬
Update ,finally found a mechanic to look at the car ,broken chain on oil pump ,hes checked everything else and no damage ,getting quoted 780 for new pump and chain from Mazda ,any ideas why the chain would break .
Hi Kieran, sorry for the delay on replying. Hopefully the telephone call information helps & don’t hesitate to contact me again if you need any more information 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 No worries,thanks a lot for taking the time today , the information was definitely useful, saving $$$.
I find Mazda dealers down the country charge half the price for stuff. Eg got a quote to do a clutch on a 3 for 500. Which I consider good. In Dublin your looking at 700.
Hi Peter, I'm experiencing a P06DE code which comes on only after a bit of harsh acceleration (on flat grounds). It's the yellow warning triangle with the 'vehicle system malfunction' displayed.
The engine sounds and runs sweet as a nut even after this error (no limp mode, full power available) and it's only this particular DTC that shows, nothing else, and disappears once the car is restarted.
Any idea what else I could be looking at before coming to the oil strainer/pump?
It sounds simple but did you check the oil level??
The orange light normally means oil level issues & the oil level rises quite often in the Skyactive engine. Worth a check before removing the oil pan🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks buddy, turns out the oil pickup was indeed blocked and my mechanic was surprised oil was even getting through 😅
@@shxh.720 well done, another Mazda engine saved 💪💪💪
@shxh.720 how do you mean blocked ? I have exactly same issue, no driving issue, just the code and light, turns off after engine on and off
@@sahmedt9same and me and i drive it for 4 mobths like this and bo problem
Could you clean the old one with diesel of equivalent? maybe soak it
Some people do try that but it normally ends up with me taking the oil pump off again and replacing it 😬😬
Great video, helped us a lot with the repair of our Mazda cx5 2.2 skyaktiv. We had problems with the oil pressure and in the end had to replace half the engine. From camshaft, hydro tappet, turbocharger, injectors, cylinder head and small parts. We cleaned the arg valves and the throttle body. However, the car does not run at 100%. After reassembly, the engine runs smoothly at idle and when the engine is still cold, the engine runs great and accelerates, just great. As soon as the engine warms up, the engine starts to jerk and no longer accelerates. We are at a loss as to what it could be. Do you have any ideas?
Check the exhaust pressure sensor, it’s just behind the rocker cover to the right. The one with only 1 pipe. Also make sure the steel pipe to it is clear 🤞🤞👍
Did you solve the problem in the end?
@@dukic91 yes. The injector washers fail, causing carbon buildup in the engine, which then blocks the oil strainer. Be careful because loss of oil pressure can make turbos & bigends fail 🤞🤞🤞
would you replace the o-ring on the oil pump? or can be reused?
Personally I reuse the old one’s and don’t have any issues with that 🤔🤔
Hi from the oil pump is the alu pipe connected ro the engine. Its oil output to the enginr. On one side there are 2 screws and metal seal connection to the oil pump. On the other side is only 1 screw and no any oring or seal?
Any help with this?
That is exactly the way it is, so you are correct. On 1 side 2 bolts and a steel gasket & on the other 1 bolt and no gasket 👍👍
Thought maybe something is missed. Anyway preasure is ok. I tested
@@losgorniacos no mate all good & well done 👏 👏
Hi peter i recently had a oil pump changed. The garage at the time said for me to change the injector seals also as this could affect the oil pump later. Is that true ? I believe the injector has no corollation with the oil pump. Could you please tell me im not going mad. Many thanks
The main cause of reduced oil pressure in these is the oil strainer getting blocked with small bits of carbon. This carbon that blocks the oil strainer originates from the injectors 🤔🤔
The washers start leaking and all the carbon gets into the oil system & blocks the strainer. So they are correct 😬😬
@kennedysgarage3281 onky thing I'm trying to get my head around is I often believed if seals were bad diesel would be visible around injector area ? (Black death ) ..I'd have thought bad spray patterns wouod be more to blame? ..I've got 2 new to go in woth upgraded seals . I csn do it BUT I don't own a diagnostic to code them which stops me in my tracks I've asked around to see if some mechanic can help with this . I had 1 booked in but was messed around ..
What would happen when the balancing shaft came out. Does it have any right position? Bit worried that my problem described before, is caused by the wrong position of the balancing shaft in the oil pump.
The balance shaft is timed or aligned in a certain position. But if will only increase vibration & not bother the running of it 👍
Is this the same as oil screen cleaning and oil pressure switch /connector replace ?
Yes, very similar
Where are you based? How much to sort out my2013 Mazda6. It has low oil pressure warning. Wanting new filter, pressure sensor and oil change, and if still not resolved new pump. Please quote me 🤣
I would advise to remove the sump and oil pump, change the oil pick up/strainer gauze then refit with new oil and filter. This would cost around €670 in total.
In an based in a little village called Portlaw in Co. Waterford
I'm hoping to do this beginning of summer ..it says 1-4 then 5-9 was that meant 1-3 ?. Theres 3 bolts that bolt 2 halfs right ? Saw theure 25nm each then the bolts that hold whole assembky onto engine ..
Ps my egr cooler came today awaiting my new oil cooler ..ive checked via blow method but obviously ill check pressure 4 leaks via vacuum.ill keep you informed ..i do get very odd intermittent groan noises im wondering if its inhert gases trying to get through egr thats blocked causing noises /pressure!!
Hey Kevin, just 3 size 10mm head bolts holding the pump and balance shaft together.
And hopefully the egr cooler stops that noise for you 🤞🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 ty buddy
@@kennedysgarage3281 the egr cooler /oil cooler is nainky to hopefully help with coolant issues. Fingers crossed ..vacuum seems to hold oressure at 16psi on radiator
@@kevinhancock4064 hopefully your cooler will sort it so 🤞🤞
@kennedysgarage3281 fingers crossed matey jeep the videos coming love em.
Do you have any videos on mark 7 transits
No David, only 2 or 3 on MK8. Glow plugs tip & egr’s sticking. Oh & a central locking issue 👍
Peter did you drain coolant or you did the job without draining it ? thanks
I didn’t drain the coolant. Removing the sump is very easy & there are no coolant hoses in the way, so I’d say it’s not necessary 😉👍👍
Do I understand correctly that to replace oil strainer I need to remove oil pump first?
Also, is it possible to just clean/unblock the strainer without replacing it? Thanks!
@@k00baa yes. The oil pump / balance shaft assembly needs to be removed & disassembled in order to replace the oil strainer.
And I haven’t ever had any success on clean due to its design and it being plastic. I would just advise to renew it, it will just work out easier & better in the long run 😬👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you for the reply. What I meant by cleaning was to not removing it from the engine and just clean it after dropping the sump pan, but i guess that's not going to happen, is it? My cx-5 needs it to be done (I think), I just need to find a trustworthy mechanic.
@@kennedysgarage3281how much can I expect to pay at mazda ?
@@k00baaconsidered using mazda?
Great video the torque settings ..I get the +/- bit but not 1-4 &1-4&5-6??? Ty
I’m sorry but I don’t really understand??
Most certainly too late, but I think you're referring to the torque for 6 bolts that hold the oil pump and balancer unit. In that case if someone else is looking for the information bolts 1-4 (bigger bolts) are torqued in two steps 16-22nm and then 30-36nm, bolts 5 and 6 (smaller) 20-26nm, they get torqued first and big bolts are torqued after in cross pattern.
@yuriykra I've not yet done it so be handy to know so 1 setting then 2 ? But like a cylinder head ? ..you have the bolts that bolt balance shaft together (are these diff or same size ) then the bolts that fix pump to emgine that have the chain on cog . Ty in advance
@@kevinhancock4064 well, the 6 bolts explained above are for the oil pump and balancer unit assembly that gets bolted to the engine and yes torque the 4 bolts to first setting then to the second. 3 bolts that hold oil pump and balancer unit together are torqued to 20-26Nm and the sprocket big bolt is 123-140Nm.
Strainer's two bolts are 8-11Nm and the oil pipe three bolts are 10-13Nm. The balancer unit itself doesn't need to come apart.
@yuriykra I've just screenshot this fab info ty matey . I'm just trying to get car as best as I can . I just swapped out thermostat other day ..I'm.wondering if my egr cooler is OK or not . Get regens between 50 and 100 miles see ..I've just ordered an additional injector new unused to go woth 1 new I have ..1 was renewed under 2 years ago ..that wouod leave 1 to install . (I don't iwn a good diag tool to.prigramme them which is a shame ) if need be I'll get them done ..simce thermostat was changed my fans kick in tidy
What is the torque setting for the bolt on the chain for the oil pump and the bolts holding the oil pump and balance shaft to the engine please
The balance shaft & oil pump assembly are 2 stages 19 & 33 Nm (+ or - 3 degrees)
The oil pump pulley is 135 Nm 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hey, maybe you know, if it same for 2009 mazda 2.2 diesel (pulley)?
I appreciate help
@@Brianffs I’m not actually familiar with the 2009 engine but I have an engine to replace or repair in one of them next week, I’ll record it and upload it 🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks, mate! Subscribed
@@Brianffs thank you so much 🙏🙏
Hi I was wondering I have a 2009 Mazda 5 sport and it has an oil light on is there any known issues that I need to know about. That maybe you’ve encountered eight these cars ?
The injector seals/washers fail on this model also which blocks the oil pick up also. So I recommend putting an oil pressure gauge on it and if the pressure is low replace the oil pick up.
The oil feed to the turbo can get blocked also.
Hopefully this helps 🤞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks so much for the reply it’s got 270k kms is there a chance the oil pump is failing ? Or failed ?
@@jaybenjamin5649 it is possible but my first check would be the gauze, let me know what you find 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 perfect I’ll do that. Thanks so much
how common is the oil pumps going on 2014 mazda the sky active engine
It depends on how badly blocked the oil strainer gets, because that starves the engine & pump of oil which can badly damage both. Has your engine failed or seized?
@@kennedysgarage3281 ok turning out it pump chain has snapped engine making a bang sound
@@dublinforthesam 😬😬 is the engine ok 🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 engine starts bit there ie banging from it also car wont go past 1 mile on accelerate
That Is what I was told when the symptoms were described to a mazda guy but I think the engine is gone
Does the oil pump need to be changed or just the strainer ?
Just the strainer Moe, it gets blocked and starves the pump and then the engine of oil.
A very common problem 😉👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 i was advised by a garage in London the oil pump needs to be changed too,have you come across any failed oil pumps?
I dont want to fork out £500 for a oil pump if I don't need to
@@moe1316 personally I haven’t come across any failed oil pumps but that doesn’t say that yours isn’t damaged. If the oil pump is damaged from oil starvation it is going to be likely that you have engine damage too. Ask them why they recommend replacing the pump too on top of the strainer 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you so much for taking time out to reply appreciate it 🙏.
They said because they are going in that area and because its common failure,I may just go somewhere else only had p055f pop up once never came back on.
Parts required:
Oil strainer
2x o rings for oil pump
Oil filter+engine oil
Gasket sealant-what brand do you recommend?
@@moe1316 the strainer, gasket & the o ring’s , Mazda dealer.
The oil & filter, doesn’t really matter once good quality
How much would this cost?
Around €500 but it does depend on individual prices
Brilliant, I think this is the video I need....
Is I changed the strainer, and/or the pump as well
What would you think cost. Where are you based!! I only want to take mine to a Mazda man!!!! And not the Big Japanese Mazda Man Main-Stealer-Dealer lol !
I’m in Co. Waterford Ireland & you??
@@kennedysgarage3281 Sadly Manchester UK
@@zzhughesd you’ll sort it no bother 💪💪
@@kennedysgarage3281 I'll have to !!! All former DPF's I've blown out with a drink, £100, moved them on faulty within trade, want to fix this.... Do I take it the viscosity of the oil goes thinner when warm, 20-25 mins into drive , this is why low oil pressure doesn't kick in, cheers.
@@zzhughesd that is it, easier to build pressure when the oil is thick & the engine metal is cold 👍
Hi peter! Thanks for your video. I just have question hopefully you can say something about it. I bought a 2015 2.2 diesel after buying it i had a vehicle system malfunction and scbs and dpf error. They cleared it and its working until now. I sent it to my local garage just for a check up and told me they found am error p06de and i should send it to mazda or other garage or get rid of it because it will cost me alot. Should i follow what is he suggesting? So far i dont have any problem with the car no limping or fault. The only fault im going to have is vehicle system malfunction when i hit more than 90mph in the motor way. Even i have those fault i cant feel any difference in the cars performance. Thank you!
The SCBS fault is only there because of engine management faults.
The P06DE is an oil pressure related fault, caused by the oil strainer getting blocked due to injector seals leaking.
The advisable repair procedure is to remove the injectors & rocker cover. While it’s disassembled check the exhaust camshaft for wear. The exhaust camshaft is most likely the cause of your dpf related problem. After these repairs remove the oil pan & replace the oil strainer.
Clean the dpf afterwards and your done 🤞🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 oh thank you so much. How much do you think it will cost me to do all of that? Are you around wrexham? 😬
@@joeram90 they aren’t cheap to get some of these repairs done & quite a lot of garages won’t work on them 🤷🏼♂️
You could probably spend around 2k on it 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you so much for your input. But if this is fixed, is the car going to be okay in a long run? Especially if taken care of? I drive at work for 6 mins for 4 days then more than 2 hours for one or two days in a week. Can you share some tips on how to take care of the engine for a longer life? Please. Thanks!
@@joeram90 changing the oil regularly is of benefit but unfortunately the parts that i previously mentioned are going to wear out every 120,000 kms no matter what you do 😬🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️