Parkside Smart Battery Problem Solving (Bluetooth Module Issue)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 เม.ย. 2024
- #ErCanEverything #Parkside #Battery
🔋In this video, I'll show you how to troubleshoot a non-working Parkside Smart Battery
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I had the same problem and in a discussion on another PARKSIDE battery repair video I got the same tip about the BT module, 3.3V regulator and 20 ohm resistor.
I used the HT7133 stabilizer, input voltage up to 28V, although only 30 mA. But I measured the board's power draw - when the 3 led charge status indicators were lit, about 12 mA (corresponds to the video here). After 10 seconds the LEDs went off, the draw was approx 5 mA and after another 10 seconds the idle state - approx 70 uA.
I haven't found a replacement BT7L module (only different types), but it's not necessary to have it there. It's just not a "smart" battery (perhaps all the better, a component that is not in the device cannot cause a malfunction).
I wonder why these BT modules short out so often (it's a pretty widespread problem). I can think of the possibility of a voltage spike on the tool motor going through the stabilizer and causing damage to the 3.3V branch ...
Just my reasoning.
Faulty BT module 🤯
How is this even possible?
Nice troubleshooting Brother ✌️
They were 3 pcs.
And I decided to make a video about the last one.
Thank you Brother🙂🤝
3 yıl garantisi var, aynı sorunu bende yaşadım bana yenisini yolladılar. Yaptığın iş çok iyi saygı duyuyorum ,teşekürler . Benim için Özel alet,edavat gerekli ve de masraflı. Türk atasözü derki "attığın taş ürküttüğün kuşa değecek) 😃
Mais um excelente trabalho, parabéns, obrigado
Thank you my Friend🙂🤝🤝🤝
Parkside should pay for this troubleshooting xD Heard that many 8ah batteries have that problem(personaly never had). No bluetooth module that could be compatible to replace?
Thank you
Awesome troubleshooting as always. Many parkside users have issues with smart batteries and now you found solution. Anyway 99.9% of users don't use BT on their tools, it is just making problems. Great work as always my Friend 👏 👏 👏
Nobody wants any kind of Smart connection on their tools. I never used this stupid bluetooth modules And I have lot of tools with this function And maybe 8 batteries. Never conected to any phone - there is simply no reason, why to do that.
@@marekaksmu exactly
Thank you my Friend🙏🙂🤝🤝🤝❤️
@@marekaksmuI want and I use, don't way for all...
vauv hiç aklıma gelmezdi modül arızası. tebrikler...👋
ercan hocam merhaba. kanalınızı ilgiyle takip ediyorum. bir sorum olacaktı. benim matkabın BMS kartında RS1M diyotu yandı. kartta sorun yok. bu diyot yerine kolay bulabileceğim muadil bir diyot önerebilir misiniz? US1M uygun mudur acaba?
Your hot air gun is either not adjusted to the appropriate temperature or cannot provide the desired temperature. Because during the disassembly process of SMD components, you do the disassembly process before the solder melts completely. This may cause the solder pads on your electronic board to break.
Wow. Awesome lab
Thank you my Friend🙂🤝
Hey Mate, have three of this. Thanks to you, one is working again!
The two Others have just 2,4V on the Regulator... Do you know the Problem?
Excellent troubleshooting! Could you try replacing the 7533-1 with a Nisshinbo NJW4184U3-33B-TE2? It's SOT-89-3, 35V and 300mA. Current spec is a little low, but it was the best I could find
in poland they use ap2204 so 0.3a is enough i suppose..., but they say it is more about Vin - which should be about 21V at least for this stabiliser and it is probably voltage that kills the original stabiliser and not current.
But in this case there is a problem in the BT module itself and if I replace with a powerful regulator and I have to replace also with a powerful resistor and then I think it will heat up the BT Module and it will burn.
@@ErCanEverything ah, ok. I thought the problem was just that they'd slapped a BT module in without accounting for its additional power draw.
@@ErCanEverything bt module is not the culprit, it burns first on the way to the microprocessor after the sabiliser fails. You can remove the bt but you need to use good quality stabiliser because then when it fails again, you will fry the microprocessor - no bt to protect it and take away the current. That's why in poland people use transil diodes when the bT unit is removed. If anything fails. it is the transil diode that shuts overcurrent to ground and saves the microprocessor. Without the bt unit on the pcb it is very risky, the bt chip accidentaly plays a protection to the microprocessor. the bt unit burns as first after the 3.3v stabiliser failure. Sometimes it goes so bad that the mp is burnt also, but usually BT chip saves the mp. You may think of any other form to protect the MP - because you cannot buy any replacement and when it fails, the battery is junk. These is quite well documented in poland now and people manage to perform successful repairs. THere are also two types of these batteries, and two types of stabiliser - one of them - cant remember the markings now - is supposed to be "stable" and will not give any problems. 33b is the one that fails.
@@toolscientist bt module is not a problem, it accidentaly saves the microprocessor - serves as an overload protection. WIthout the BT you will burn the MP if the stabiliser fails again. It is the stabiliser that is faulty. (it is nearly impossible to comment on YT now, I wrote a long comment and they deleted it for no reason. You need to remember to copy your comment before posting it case it gets deleted - f... you yt. ) If you remove the failed BT chip, find a way to protect the micro processor. You cant buy a replacement - battery is junk if the microprocessor gets shot. (You can use the bms pcb from a normal 4ah battery though) In poland they mount transil diodes to protect the mp chip after the bt was removed. There are two types of stabilisers on this batteries - 33b is supposed to be a faulty one. People dont report problems on the other type of the stabiliser but I can remember its symbols.
Hi , i liked the magnifying tool , i have bad sight . Can you share the idea behind it .ty
Good job man!
May I know which thermal camera do you use?
There is an order link in the video description
th-cam.com/video/1776cepvAxE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-MTxZwMwgxma-1EE
Hi! I removed the BT module and replaced the resistor and regulator. The battery now shows the LEDs when you press the button, but it doesn't charge. LEDs show that it's full, and the chargers green light stays on. When connecting it to a tool it works for 2 seconds and then cuts out, like you had in de first part of this video.
Any idea what I could try more? I've added a 20 Ohm resistor in the same method as the French video did it.
Is there 3.3V at the output of the regulator?
Parkside ürünüm yok yinede izledim :) Ercan seyrettiriyorsun videoyu :)
Teşekkür ederim Dostum🙂🤝🤝🤝
nice
Thank you my Friend🙂🤝
Hello my Friend 👋👋👋
Very nice clip. I have the same problem with the button, but the battery works, but I can't see the charging status on the LEDs. Is it the same problem?
Thank you🙂
And is it charging?
Does the red indicator light on the charger when charging?
@@ErCanEverything Ies, is it charging. Only de battery status indicator button not working. At 4 batteries.
@@Sim_Tiby i had that problem, the LEDs fall down after a crash on the floor. Solder back again.
👍👍👍
Отличен, както винаги. Но не разбрах защо използваш паста, вместо тинол. Някои са откровени lead-free боклуци, които и на 240 градуса стоят като зле калайдисана тенджера. Преди много време имах случай в който пастата попадна под корпуса на чипа и накрая имах чудесно окъсена платка :) от тогава не ползвам :)
Ich nutze bleihaltiges und bin sehr zufrieden. Es wird mein Leben nicht reduzieren😂
Спойките на регулатора и резистора не изглеждат много добре във видеото, но след това ги поправих и сега са както спойките на жиците във видеото. Но когато запоявам на 1м разстояние понеже пред мен стои камерата, нещата изглеждат по този начин😁
Благодаря ти Приятелю🙂🤝🤝🤝
Can you make a Video how to Install a Display and USB Ports to the 12Ah smart charger? Very nice 👌
If the charger is there and modified, then there is also a video of how I did it.
th-cam.com/video/zP4K5ixEp9s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=j2fEEJdyEgoejzMx
When you solder that resistor like you did it by pushing it down, it will stress the other solder point of the resistor/circuit board. You should have been using hot air or only put solder on one of the solder points and then the other after the resistor was installed.
New to this but why does it have a BT module anyway ? 🤔
I have almost tha same problem , except main is charging and tool work.
Have you lowered the bluetooth module and changed the voltage regulator? Great work my friend
Thank you my Friend🙂🤝🤝🤝
hello any idea how to reset pin to this type of battery? i have 2 baterry with forgoten password i cant use it because there are bloked
Should i remove the bluetooth module to avoid this problem
If there is no warranty, you have to say goodbye to Bluetooth🙄🤷
Why is there a BT module in the battery?
To connect with mobile and show battery details on it.
This video is missing an explanation of how you determined that the bluetooth module is the culprit.
bt module is not the culprit, it burns first on the way to the microprocessor after the sabiliser fails. You can remove the bt but you need to use good quality stabiliser because then in case it fails you will fry the microprocessor - no bt to protect it and take away the current. That's why in poland people use transil diodes when the bT unit is removed. If anything fails it is the transil diode that shuts overcurrent to ground and saves the microprocessor. Without the bt unit on the pcb it is very risky, bt chip accidentaly plays a protection to the microprocessor. Now, if the stabiliser fails again, the overcurrent will burn the microprocessor directly.
With 13mA current, you can't even burn out an LED diode🙂
@@ErCanEverything I am not an electronic, I just follow the smarter guys and tell you what I have learnt. It is not about current but perhaps overvoltage and then the components failing. However, it has been tested now, that BT module is not faulty as such nor it causes problems, it just takes the overvoltage / overload on the way to a microprocessor from the stabiliser. Sometimes the failure will take both components so if you remove the BT, you need to protect the microprocessor somehow. Perhaps it will make more sense to you if you follow the power supply path on the pcb. This is what is said on my local forums and the smarter guys I follow, BT out = transil diode for protection of the microprocessor. good luck.
The problem is not solved, the BT module is missing.
At least I have a working battery
We need a fix for usb c adapter
Should the next video be about this? I guess some people doubt that I can do this?
Nota 0, o multimetro nao é parkside
Önce güvenlik. Güvenliğiniz için önce pil bağlantısını kesin. Daha çok video içerik üreteceksiniz başınıza birşey gelsin istemem
Teşekkür ederim Haklısınız.
Ancak ölçüm yapip size gösterebilmek için bu şekilde çalıştım.
😂😂😂
380v😂
@monolit4969 😅😅😅
Parkside has awful quality...
Asked TH-cam not to recommend you as you don’t speak. Do you watch silent movies on television
good to see you leaving, bye.
talk is cheap. (It better production that it does not need words to explain everythink)
That's pretty rude even to suggest something like that because he's not speaking!! Even without him speaking he was very thorough through his typed in information it makes it hard when people speak too much when you're trying to troubleshoot something a lot of people waste time by speaking too much and I'm one of those types of people sometimes