Thanks for all the time and effort you put into these videos! The very last line of this one clued me in haha "if the spin basket and agitator both try to move at the same time" ding ding! I had been trying to figure out without knowing beforehand exactly how each piece was supposed to be operating. Without that information it's pretty hard to figure out if it's operating incorrectly! The level of detail in your videos is something you can't find in a service manual. Only from experience - so thanks for sharing yours so that we can benefit from it!
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm thrilled to hear that the videos have been helpful to you, especially that specific insight about the spin basket and agitator. It's my goal to share the knowledge I've gained over the years to make things a bit easier for others. Your feedback truly means a lot and motivates me to continue creating and sharing. If you ever have questions or topics you'd like to see covered, please don't hesitate to let me know. Thanks again for your support and thanks for watching too!
Great description of the splutch and its function. Your comment on how the splutch should move freely saved me from calling a repair man. I have a Whirlpool Cabrio washer and was having issues with it spinning. I replaced the actuator, and the splutch but the washer still would not work. Next I replaced the solenoid, but it still would not run. After watching your video and better understanding the splutch function I realized the new splutch was defective. The slide on the splutch would not move freely and the actuator could not change the position. After pulling the new splutch off and putting the old splutch back on the washer was back in operation.
@HarperandKnowles mind if I ask you a question? I'm trying to figure out if my washer machine is working properly or not. I feel like when the "agitator" spins it move as a snails pace and "stop and goes" VERY slowly. This normal on an older 80 series?
Here’s the video that might fix your problem. How To Replace the Clutch in Your Whirlpool-Style Washing Machine: A Step-by-Step Guide th-cam.com/video/bPPoeaQQOU4/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the informative video brother. I've got parts that will be here in a couple days. Both drive hub and the splutch kit. Pulley nut came off no problem but the pulley won't budge off the bolt. The splutch ring also detached no prob but the pulley won't budge. Splutch is melted where attached to washer, not pulley, so I'm thinking heat must have bound the pulley to the splutch like lock tight.
@@HarperandKnowles I applied some heat and pried off the pulley. There is a 3 pronged metal peice of the pulley that is still stuck to the shaft that is not budging. Idk what type of bonding agent they used when installing the old pulley so guess the whole shift will need to be replaced.
For the record, Mr. Harper passed away last August. Now it’s just me, Chip! It is common for the agitator to spin along with the basket but it isn’t being driven.
The shaft on my agitator plate has about 1/4 play left and right and plate bolt keeps coming loose.Plate and shaft splines gears are fine and seems like when it’s rotating the play is loosening the bolt up.Is the spultch the reason maybe?
I have an Amana washer that makes an awful grinding noise and won’t spin. The water will drain at the end of the cycle. Per my googling, I think it may be the actuator. Do you think that is what the problem is?
Try doing the steps in this video and see if you can figure out which component has failed. How To Diagnose Your Amana Washing Machine: Chip's Guide to Manual Diagnostic Mode th-cam.com/video/M6EQUP4iTHM/w-d-xo.html
Thank yku for your videos! We have an Amana that stopped agitating or spinning, we have replaced the accuator and the lod switch and it srill isnt working, so do you think we need to try replacing the spultch? The lid lock light keeps getting stuck on after it tried to run a wash cycle and stops when it shoukd be agitating abd the final spin light starts flashing and the lid lock light stays steady on.
Watch this video, Complete Guide to Fixing Your Amana Washing Machine: Works for All Whirlpool Corp. Brands th-cam.com/video/M6EQUP4iTHM/w-d-xo.html. You should use your service booklet to retrieve the error codes that are stored in the machine and that will give you a clue as to what is happening. Thanks for watching.
Hi sir, the plastic arm that sticks out from the shift actuator is broken and I have to replace the actuator, there's excess play or backlash between the splines of the splutch and the plastic splines that comes out of the gearbox. Apart from the splutch assembly do you know if the plastic splined part coming out from the gearbox is an individual part or it's the complete gearbox?
My Maytag clicks extremely loud multiple times in between a cycle, like you can hear it on the other side of the house. I have always wondered if it was the splutch, called repair service and they had no idea so they threw a new pump in. Did not fix issue. Out of warranty. Wondering cost to replace splutch with labor time is worth it on 5 year old washer?
It sounds like you're on the right track suspecting the splutch. Before considering a replacement, you can check the splutch for free movement. If it doesn't shift smoothly, then it's likely worth changing both the splutch and possibly the shift actuator. The cost-effectiveness of the repair will depend on whether you plan to do the work yourself or hire a service technician and their charges for the job. Good luck with your decision, and thanks for watching my channel!
I have sense light/ stopped full of soapy water. Took off my pump/hot wired it.flooded the tiny floor space/ 8 towels worth/ checked my cap also good.tried to remove the high tec.lid sw.Yep I busted it. Now finally I'm thinking its that actuator? Gotta find the video where they test it. Can't bring up diagnose with any of the lights on? Great video!Thanks
A lot of times if it’s stuck in a cycle you can hold down the start switch for about 20 seconds and it will cancel and pump out. Too late for that now. Here’s the link to the video to test actuator: Washer not Agitating or Spinning | Diagnose The Shift Actuator th-cam.com/video/7FBRdwwWr6o/w-d-xo.html Good luck!
My lid switch arrived today. It's installed/the capacitor is back on/the pump also. I kept the lid open until the last. Closed the lid/plugged it up. Waters on. Now I've got a locked lid with a flashing red locked lid. This is almost as fun as operating a late model car stereo.
You're not having much luck with that thing, are you? Try holding the start button down and see if the lid lock will open. or try unplugging and after a minute or so plug it back in and give it a minute or so. if that doesn't work see if you can get it into diagnostic mode and try cycling the lid lock from there.
There are several videos, mostly in Spanish where people in "3rd world" countries have more time than money. For them, a bearing replacement is worth it. I don't remember if this video shows it, but one of the repair people had bearings in OE Whirlpool packaging. I googled the numbers and kept getting supply houses in Mexico. An closeup of the actual bearing revealed that it is a common 206, avail at any parts house. One of the YT parts store videos gave the p/n for the tub to transmission seal. Usually, the parts breakdown shows the seal included with the new transmission and not avail separately. The metal sleeve he had trouble with may be the same as the Cabrio bearing kit (?), the machine with the big pancake motor windings at the bottom of the tub. I don't know if there are any more seals used on the transmission. Most of these will leak, kill the bearings to where they sound like an airplane, on spin and later, leaking water will corrode the shifter. If I don't have a leaker, seems like I have good luck flipping these machines over, taking the splunge apart, lightly greasing it and swapping in a good shifter. 90% of the time, after recalibration, the problems are gone. I am running out of old school machines and these new models are starting to pile up. I am still hoping the transmissions will take a big drop in price once the warehouses realize they need to get their money and get out of this model. th-cam.com/video/nZ_GsvkpSQQ/w-d-xo.html 2nd vid th-cam.com/users/shortsj_jNGvG5QZk?feature=share
This is good stuff Professor. Like you said, these folks have more time to do this than we have.There was an outfit in the US that was rebuilding these and selling them as reconditioned parts. I bought a GE transmission from them once. Their price was under a new part but still too high for me to make much profit. If they're going to make these parts unserviceable they should at least make them affordable. Thanks for this great information and the video link too.
I have changed both the ahift actuator and the splutch and the agitator step is still not working properly. It still fails when I try to run a load. It works sometimes during the diagnostic phase but not every time. Is there anything I am missing? I didn’t see it in the comments so apologies if it’s been answered already.
Of course I can’t determine what’s wrong with your machine remotely but I would check the capacitor and the agitator splines. If you take the flapper off the lid and slip it into the cabinet slot you can observe what’s happening better. You could also have a motor that is turning in only one direction. That would cause your clothes to tangle around the agitator. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I have a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II (LSQ8243HQ0). I got it from an ex-coworker for super cheap. He said that he had to replace a motor coupler or something in the past. I used it for about 3 years and then it broke. I can start the washing cycle just fine, but when it gets to the "spin" cycle, the agitator looks like it's trying to spin with the basket but then after about 360 degrees the agitator slams backwards and repeats. Do you think the splutch/cam could be the cause of that symptom?
I’m not sure what’s going on here but I don’t think it could be the splutch. On account of it doesn’t have one. I’d probably suspect a transmission failure of some sort. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles ok. I have put off taking the thing apart to try figuring out what broke for like a year. I finally have some free time so I think I'm going to finally do it. I already spent a bunch of time deep cleaning the basket and drum and stuff out. A couple appliance repair guys on the internet said it is a great model washer that's worth fixing.
Great Video Sir! Any chance you would know why i am able to completely remove the shaft from the top of this exact same washer while the agitator is still connected? There is nothing retaining the shaft and nobody seems to have an answer as to a fix. I can grab the agitator plate from the top and the agitator, and shaft will completely pull up with ease. Is there a clip, pin, or bolt that is supposed to lock that shaft in place? Thanks in advance. I was hoping this video was going to show me how the shaft secured from thr bottom!
There probably is a C-clip or something inside The gear case that holds the shaft in place but it must have come off. Unfortunately, this is contained within the gearbox and not accessible to service personnel. I have never seen this before. You, Sir, have a unique malfunction. Thanks for watching!
I have a noisy Whirlpool. Took a look at that wheel and it is hard to turn, as if it was seized. It turns but it takes some force. i also found the belt to be falling apart and a black grease all over the plastic cover that goes over the wheel. Does that mean the gearbox has gone wrong? It seems you were able to easily turn the wheel, mine doesnt. 😮
So my series 500 washer was making a loud clank clank clank when it was at the end of the spin cycle and ive found videos of the exact same sound. Replaced the Splutch and actuator however I still have the same sound..... I dont even see based on the design how they wouldnt make the clank sound when that shift actuator changes position. What else could be the issue?!
I have seen this many times before. What is happening is the motor goes into reverse for a short period of time at the end of the spin cycle and that is what is making the whine sound almost like a braking effect. The stress on the splutch from this torque is causing the splutch gears to jump. This isn't a mechanical problem but a control board problem. This is an area that I'm not an expert in but I used to think that the manufacturer designed the machine to reverse the motor for a braking action after the spin cycle, and they may have, I don't know. I have the luxury of having used control boards from scrapped machines so I experimented and found when I swapped out the board, that fixes the problem. I wish I knew more about this problem perhaps someone with more knowledge than I will see this and educate all of us.
I think this is what's wrong with mine I'll start a cycle and when it goes to agitate the motor hums but no movement. If I open the lid and close it. It starts working until the next agitate cycle. I believe the spin works but my clothes aren't coming out that clean unless I babysit it and open the lid when I start hearing the motor but no agitation. I don't know if the splutch is sticking or the actuator/shifter is weak.
@@HarperandKnowles The machine works if I open the lid then close it. When I say hums I mean it's spinning but not engaging with the agitator. I think the splutch ? Is sticking
I've replaced the gear case, actuator and splutch. Can anyone say why when it's in agitation cycle, why it still makes grinding noise? In one direction, no noise but when goes in opposite direction, I watched the pulley being pulled back towards the splutch which makes it grind. I'm confused.
The oil in the gearbox is heavy gear oil, probably 85-90 weight, and isn't serviceable. For lubing the splutch...? It is made of hard plastic that doesn't come with any apparent grease or oil on the parts. If the splutch is sticking I have used a dry Teflon-based lubricant made by WD40 to free it up. The belt is made from strong fibers impregnated in synthetic rubber. I'm not sure what the fibers are, perhaps kevlar? Thanks for watching.
@@jeromedavis8575 Ben’s Appliances and Junk made a video on this subject recently. I think he found that the parts used on their commercial machines were actually of better quality. Check his videos out and see if you can find it. I think it was published no longer than two months ago.
My washer was not agitating we replaced the shift actuator worked for one load started doing the same thing. Checked the shift actuator and the arm keeps coming out of the splutch.
Transmissions are very weak. Won't last. And the shift actuator switch is the other main problem. No telling how many of those I have replaced. But what choice do you have unless you want to bite the bullet and step up to a Speed Queen.
If Whirlpool just went back to their direct drive machines and used porcelain tops that we're bleach proof they would corner the market. But, alas, if you build a machine that last then you sell fewer units. Did anyone notice that they only started making these junk machines after they acquired most of their US competitors?
They will probably get fined if it lasts too long. Most retail machines have to fail within a time limit or face fines. I'm sitting here with a pulley that must be heat welded together. Guess I'll have to break it off. Splutch kit and drive hub will be here in a couple days so not worried about damaging the pulley or splutch. Thank you for continuing to reply to all those whom this video has helped and you have my condolences for your loss brother.
it is more than just red and black (as I found out the hard way)....I have the commercial Maytag and used a regular actuator and it blew my circuit board...USE the correct actuator and save yourself 175 bucks
Hmmm, I don’t see how you could use the wrong actuator. They have totally different plug interfaces. You had to do some creative re-wiring to achieve that task! Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Looks like a WTW5000DW/MVWC555DW/MVWC565FW/MVWX655DW, it can also be a Kenmore 25132 or 22352. It can also be a Crosley model CAW42114GW. Based on the drain pump style on a VMW it must be one of those. It’s gotta be one of those models tho.
@@HarperandKnowles Was the machine loud in the spin cycle? If it was then you are right that it has a bad bearing, even if it’s a model with bearings ha rarely fail
Oh, I thought you were asking me about your own machine! Yeah, it ain't my first rodeo, my friend. The bearings were gone in this one. It is a common malady of these machines. I probably have 100 or more pass through the shop in a year's time and I'd say at least a third of them have failed bearings. Thanks for watching!
Splutch.......Splined Clutch.... is what I think it is🤔 ALSO you can start calling people a "Splutch" and they would have no idea what it is.....Imma use that one !!!...😅🤣😂😂
I scrap these all the time. Amana. People always blow the transmission and bearing on these. And i dont replace bearing either so maybe 1 in 10 i get at the shop ends up on the floor. Its too bad they make these so flimsy now and keep slapping that super capcity on there so people overlaod and kill them in 2-5 years max
Mr. Harper has told me about those and he has a bunch of parts for them too. I have never had to work on one. I think they are considered machines of antiquity now. I wonder if any are still out there in my community??
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into these videos! The very last line of this one clued me in haha "if the spin basket and agitator both try to move at the same time" ding ding! I had been trying to figure out without knowing beforehand exactly how each piece was supposed to be operating. Without that information it's pretty hard to figure out if it's operating incorrectly! The level of detail in your videos is something you can't find in a service manual. Only from experience - so thanks for sharing yours so that we can benefit from it!
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm thrilled to hear that the videos have been helpful to you, especially that specific insight about the spin basket and agitator. It's my goal to share the knowledge I've gained over the years to make things a bit easier for others. Your feedback truly means a lot and motivates me to continue creating and sharing. If you ever have questions or topics you'd like to see covered, please don't hesitate to let me know. Thanks again for your support and thanks for watching too!
Great description of the splutch and its function. Your comment on how the splutch should move freely saved me from calling a repair man. I have a Whirlpool Cabrio washer and was having issues with it spinning. I replaced the actuator, and the splutch but the washer still would not work. Next I replaced the solenoid, but it still would not run. After watching your video and better understanding the splutch function I realized the new splutch was defective. The slide on the splutch would not move freely and the actuator could not change the position. After pulling the new splutch off and putting the old splutch back on the washer was back in operation.
It’s kind of disappointing when your new part is worse than the old one. I’ve had the same experience with new splutches. Thanks for watching!
Great video!!
Thank you and thanks for the watching too!
@HarperandKnowles mind if I ask you a question? I'm trying to figure out if my washer machine is working properly or not. I feel like when the "agitator" spins it move as a snails pace and "stop and goes" VERY slowly. This normal on an older 80 series?
Here’s the video that might fix your problem. How To Replace the Clutch in Your Whirlpool-Style Washing Machine: A Step-by-Step Guide
th-cam.com/video/bPPoeaQQOU4/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching!
Thank You for the informative videos!!! Really detailed and makes this easier to understand!!!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks man just helped me diagnose my problem, appreciate it
I’m glad my video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic detailed explanation, thanks!
Bravo! 👏🏻
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed video. Very helpful.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for the video!
On 3:24, I think it's actually a led light that is used to determine the rpms.
Thank you for that information, I think you may be correct. Thanks for watching!
Very informative 👏 👌 👍🏾
Thanks for watching!
Outstanding video. Explained functionality extremely well.
I’m glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
This is great. If it’s not the shifter switch, I think it might be the splutch.
I hope you get it fixed. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles yessir! Took me only 7min! Thank you!
Very informative, thank you! I actually need to fix mine as well.
I’m glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching!
So very helpful. Thank you!
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the informative video brother. I've got parts that will be here in a couple days. Both drive hub and the splutch kit. Pulley nut came off no problem but the pulley won't budge off the bolt. The splutch ring also detached no prob but the pulley won't budge. Splutch is melted where attached to washer, not pulley, so I'm thinking heat must have bound the pulley to the splutch like lock tight.
You can use a set of pullers for this. Thanks for watching!
Tried that but to no avail. Gonna try some heat on it next
@@HarperandKnowles I applied some heat and pried off the pulley. There is a 3 pronged metal peice of the pulley that is still stuck to the shaft that is not budging. Idk what type of bonding agent they used when installing the old pulley so guess the whole shift will need to be replaced.
Or you could use a die grinder with a cutting wheel and cut it off the shaft.
Thanks for your help, from New Zealand
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Thank you!! Just what I needed.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
Mr. Harper, thank a million for the great video. Question: When this machine spins it also is spinning the agitator, correct?
For the record, Mr. Harper passed away last August. Now it’s just me, Chip! It is common for the agitator to spin along with the basket but it isn’t being driven.
@@HarperandKnowles My condolences! Thank you so much for the super fast reply!!!
excellent explanation
Thanks for watching!
The shaft on my agitator plate has about 1/4 play left and right and plate bolt keeps coming loose.Plate and shaft splines gears are fine and seems like when it’s rotating the play is loosening the bolt up.Is the spultch the reason maybe?
I’d suspect the wash plate. Just change it and see if that fixes the issue. Thanks for watching!
I have an Amana washer that makes an awful grinding noise and won’t spin. The water will drain at the end of the cycle. Per my googling, I think it may be the actuator. Do you think that is what the problem is?
Try doing the steps in this video and see if you can figure out which component has failed. How To Diagnose Your Amana Washing Machine: Chip's Guide to Manual Diagnostic Mode
th-cam.com/video/M6EQUP4iTHM/w-d-xo.html
Thank yku for your videos! We have an Amana that stopped agitating or spinning, we have replaced the accuator and the lod switch and it srill isnt working, so do you think we need to try replacing the spultch? The lid lock light keeps getting stuck on after it tried to run a wash cycle and stops when it shoukd be agitating abd the final spin light starts flashing and the lid lock light stays steady on.
Watch this video, Complete Guide to Fixing Your Amana Washing Machine: Works for All Whirlpool Corp. Brands
th-cam.com/video/M6EQUP4iTHM/w-d-xo.html. You should use your service booklet to retrieve the error codes that are stored in the machine and that will give you a clue as to what is happening. Thanks for watching.
Thanks
Thank you for watching! I love binge watchers!
Hi sir, the plastic arm that sticks out from the shift actuator is broken and I have to replace the actuator, there's excess play or backlash between the splines of the splutch and the plastic splines that comes out of the gearbox.
Apart from the splutch assembly do you know if the plastic splined part coming out from the gearbox is an individual part or it's the complete gearbox?
That is part of the gearbox assembly. I have never seen one worn too bad. There is a first for everything though. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thank you.
My Pleasure
My Maytag clicks extremely loud multiple times in between a cycle, like you can hear it on the other side of the house. I have always wondered if it was the splutch, called repair service and they had no idea so they threw a new pump in. Did not fix issue. Out of warranty. Wondering cost to replace splutch with labor time is worth it on 5 year old washer?
It sounds like you're on the right track suspecting the splutch. Before considering a replacement, you can check the splutch for free movement. If it doesn't shift smoothly, then it's likely worth changing both the splutch and possibly the shift actuator. The cost-effectiveness of the repair will depend on whether you plan to do the work yourself or hire a service technician and their charges for the job. Good luck with your decision, and thanks for watching my channel!
I have sense light/ stopped full of soapy water. Took off my pump/hot wired it.flooded the tiny floor space/ 8 towels worth/ checked my cap also good.tried to remove the high tec.lid sw.Yep I busted it.
Now finally I'm thinking its that actuator? Gotta find the video where they test it.
Can't bring up diagnose with any of the lights on?
Great video!Thanks
A lot of times if it’s stuck in a cycle you can hold down the start switch for about 20 seconds and it will cancel and pump out. Too late for that now. Here’s the link to the video to test actuator: Washer not Agitating or Spinning | Diagnose The Shift Actuator
th-cam.com/video/7FBRdwwWr6o/w-d-xo.html Good luck!
Wow!
Thank You very much!
My lid switch arrived today.
It's installed/the capacitor is back on/the pump also.
I kept the lid open until the last.
Closed the lid/plugged it up.
Waters on.
Now I've got a locked lid with a flashing red locked lid.
This is almost as fun as operating a late model car stereo.
You're not having much luck with that thing, are you? Try holding the start button down and see if the lid lock will open. or try unplugging and after a minute or so plug it back in and give it a minute or so. if that doesn't work see if you can get it into diagnostic mode and try cycling the lid lock from there.
There are several videos, mostly in Spanish where people in "3rd world" countries have more time than money. For them, a bearing replacement is worth it. I don't remember if this video shows it, but one of the repair people had bearings in OE Whirlpool packaging. I googled the numbers and kept getting supply houses in Mexico. An closeup of the actual bearing revealed that it is a common 206, avail at any parts house. One of the YT parts store videos gave the p/n for the tub to transmission seal. Usually, the parts breakdown shows the seal included with the new transmission and not avail separately. The metal sleeve he had trouble with may be the same as the Cabrio bearing kit (?), the machine with the big pancake motor windings at the bottom of the tub. I don't know if there are any more seals used on the transmission. Most of these will leak, kill the bearings to where they sound like an airplane, on spin and later, leaking water will corrode the shifter. If I don't have a leaker, seems like I have good luck flipping these machines over, taking the splunge apart, lightly greasing it and swapping in a good shifter. 90% of the time, after recalibration, the problems are gone. I am running out of old school machines and these new models are starting to pile up. I am still hoping the transmissions will take a big drop in price once the warehouses realize they need to get their money and get out of this model.
th-cam.com/video/nZ_GsvkpSQQ/w-d-xo.html
2nd vid
th-cam.com/users/shortsj_jNGvG5QZk?feature=share
This is good stuff Professor. Like you said, these folks have more time to do this than we have.There was an outfit in the US that was rebuilding these and selling them as reconditioned parts. I bought a GE transmission from them once. Their price was under a new part but still too high for me to make much profit. If they're going to make these parts unserviceable they should at least make them affordable. Thanks for this great information and the video link too.
I have changed both the ahift actuator and the splutch and the agitator step is still not working properly. It still fails when I try to run a load. It works sometimes during the diagnostic phase but not every time. Is there anything I am missing? I didn’t see it in the comments so apologies if it’s been answered already.
Of course I can’t determine what’s wrong with your machine remotely but I would check the capacitor and the agitator splines. If you take the flapper off the lid and slip it into the cabinet slot you can observe what’s happening better. You could also have a motor that is turning in only one direction. That would cause your clothes to tangle around the agitator. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I have a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II (LSQ8243HQ0). I got it from an ex-coworker for super cheap. He said that he had to replace a motor coupler or something in the past. I used it for about 3 years and then it broke. I can start the washing cycle just fine, but when it gets to the "spin" cycle, the agitator looks like it's trying to spin with the basket but then after about 360 degrees the agitator slams backwards and repeats. Do you think the splutch/cam could be the cause of that symptom?
I’m not sure what’s going on here but I don’t think it could be the splutch. On account of it doesn’t have one. I’d probably suspect a transmission failure of some sort. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles ok. I have put off taking the thing apart to try figuring out what broke for like a year. I finally have some free time so I think I'm going to finally do it. I already spent a bunch of time deep cleaning the basket and drum and stuff out. A couple appliance repair guys on the internet said it is a great model washer that's worth fixing.
So I replaced the gearbox in mine but now it makes a pulsing squeak sound when in the wash mode. Any idea why?
I have no idea. I’d examine the splutch area, maybe spray some dry lubricant on those parts and see if that fixes it. Thanks for watching!
Great Video Sir! Any chance you would know why i am able to completely remove the shaft from the top of this exact same washer while the agitator is still connected? There is nothing retaining the shaft and nobody seems to have an answer as to a fix.
I can grab the agitator plate from the top and the agitator, and shaft will completely pull up with ease. Is there a clip, pin, or bolt that is supposed to lock that shaft in place? Thanks in advance. I was hoping this video was going to show me how the shaft secured from thr bottom!
There probably is a C-clip or something inside The gear case that holds the shaft in place but it must have come off. Unfortunately, this is contained within the gearbox and not accessible to service personnel. I have never seen this before. You, Sir, have a unique malfunction. Thanks for watching!
Can aftermarket shift actuator be a problem even when new,i changed mine and still not working
I wouldn’t rule it out but it’s rare. Thanks for watching!
I have a noisy Whirlpool. Took a look at that wheel and it is hard to turn, as if it was seized. It turns but it takes some force. i also found the belt to be falling apart and a black grease all over the plastic cover that goes over the wheel. Does that mean the gearbox has gone wrong? It seems you were able to easily turn the wheel, mine doesnt. 😮
The inner shaft spins freely, the outer one is the one I have tough time spinning.
Yes, the gearbox has failed. Usually a terminal illness with these machines. Thanks for watching!
So my series 500 washer was making a loud clank clank clank when it was at the end of the spin cycle and ive found videos of the exact same sound. Replaced the Splutch and actuator however I still have the same sound..... I dont even see based on the design how they wouldnt make the clank sound when that shift actuator changes position. What else could be the issue?!
Share a link of one of those videos and I'll see what I can make of it.
@@HarperandKnowles
th-cam.com/video/C267PxOO6i8/w-d-xo.html
I have seen this many times before. What is happening is the motor goes into reverse for a short period of time at the end of the spin cycle and that is what is making the whine sound almost like a braking effect. The stress on the splutch from this torque is causing the splutch gears to jump. This isn't a mechanical problem but a control board problem. This is an area that I'm not an expert in but I used to think that the manufacturer designed the machine to reverse the motor for a braking action after the spin cycle, and they may have, I don't know. I have the luxury of having used control boards from scrapped machines so I experimented and found when I swapped out the board, that fixes the problem. I wish I knew more about this problem perhaps someone with more knowledge than I will see this and educate all of us.
Burnt the top lip of the main part that engages the pulley wheel twice. Any ideas. Thanks
Change it. Thanks for watching!
I think this is what's wrong with mine I'll start a cycle and when it goes to agitate the motor hums but no movement. If I open the lid and close it. It starts working until the next agitate cycle. I believe the spin works but my clothes aren't coming out that clean unless I babysit it and open the lid when I start hearing the motor but no agitation. I don't know if the splutch is sticking or the actuator/shifter is weak.
You may have a bad capacitor if the motor hums during the start cycle. My best guess without being able to check it myself. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles The machine works if I open the lid then close it. When I say hums I mean it's spinning but not engaging with the agitator. I think the splutch ? Is sticking
By works you mean it squirts water. Check your belt.
I've replaced the gear case, actuator and splutch. Can anyone say why when it's in agitation cycle, why it still makes grinding noise? In one direction, no noise but when goes in opposite direction, I watched the pulley being pulled back towards the splutch which makes it grind. I'm confused.
Watch this video and see if that’s the problem you’re having. th-cam.com/video/rXDETg8vaRY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qMIsAabbDhRQlBWe. Thanks for watching!
Nice demo. What oil is used? What are the belts made of?
The oil in the gearbox is heavy gear oil, probably 85-90 weight, and isn't serviceable. For lubing the splutch...? It is made of hard plastic that doesn't come with any apparent grease or oil on the parts. If the splutch is sticking I have used a dry Teflon-based lubricant made by WD40 to free it up. The belt is made from strong fibers impregnated in synthetic rubber. I'm not sure what the fibers are, perhaps kevlar? Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles Are they the same or different on the maytag models including their commercial models?
@@jeromedavis8575 Ben’s Appliances and Junk made a video on this subject recently. I think he found that the parts used on their commercial machines were actually of better quality. Check his videos out and see if you can find it. I think it was published no longer than two months ago.
@@HarperandKnowles I think I saw that. What do their motors look like?
They look the same. I don't have much experience repairing them though. Not many people in my area buy commercial quality appliances.
U is a boss 👌👌
Thank you!
I read a couple.
If I step up. It'll be to an old washer I saved/it had a bad coupling.
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My washer was not agitating we replaced the shift actuator worked for one load started doing the same thing. Checked the shift actuator and the arm keeps coming out of the splutch.
If the shift actuator arm doesn't have much flex in it I'd change the splutch. Thanks for watching!
Splines and clutch = splutch 😊
Best answer yet! Thanks for watching!
Transmissions are very weak. Won't last. And the shift actuator switch is the other main problem. No telling how many of those I have replaced. But what choice do you have unless you want to bite the bullet and step up to a Speed Queen.
If Whirlpool just went back to their direct drive machines and used porcelain tops that we're bleach proof they would corner the market. But, alas, if you build a machine that last then you sell fewer units. Did anyone notice that they only started making these junk machines after they acquired most of their US competitors?
Why did maytag claim it was commercial technology when they're the same machine?
@@jeromedavis8575 marketing perhaps.
They will probably get fined if it lasts too long. Most retail machines have to fail within a time limit or face fines. I'm sitting here with a pulley that must be heat welded together. Guess I'll have to break it off. Splutch kit and drive hub will be here in a couple days so not worried about damaging the pulley or splutch. Thank you for continuing to reply to all those whom this video has helped and you have my condolences for your loss brother.
Piece just came today, will try to replace
Good luck with the repair and thanks for watching!
it is more than just red and black (as I found out the hard way)....I have the commercial Maytag and used a regular actuator and it blew my circuit board...USE the correct actuator and save yourself 175 bucks
Hmmm, I don’t see how you could use the wrong actuator. They have totally different plug interfaces. You had to do some creative re-wiring to achieve that task! Thanks for watching!
Sprocket clutch combo. Splutch
Sounds reasonable. Thanks for watching!
the bob ross of appliance repair dudes
Lol! Let’s put a happy little Maytag right over here. Thanks for watching!
I don’t think it’s a bearing failure since it’s not that common on this mode
What model is that?
@@HarperandKnowles Looks like a WTW5000DW/MVWC555DW/MVWC565FW/MVWX655DW, it can also be a Kenmore 25132 or 22352. It can also be a Crosley model CAW42114GW. Based on the drain pump style on a VMW it must be one of those. It’s gotta be one of those models tho.
Do, what is the machine doing?
@@HarperandKnowles Was the machine loud in the spin cycle? If it was then you are right that it has a bad bearing, even if it’s a model with bearings ha rarely fail
Oh, I thought you were asking me about your own machine! Yeah, it ain't my first rodeo, my friend. The bearings were gone in this one. It is a common malady of these machines. I probably have 100 or more pass through the shop in a year's time and I'd say at least a third of them have failed bearings. Thanks for watching!
Splutch, spline + clutch
That's as good a guess as any. I think you are correct. Thanks for watching!
splines + clutch = splutch
I knew it was something like that! Thanks for clearing that up. Thanks for watching too!
Thanks for watching!
Splutch.......Splined Clutch.... is what I think it is🤔 ALSO you can start calling people a "Splutch" and they would have no idea what it is.....Imma use that one !!!...😅🤣😂😂
Lol Thanks for watching!
I scrap these all the time. Amana. People always blow the transmission and bearing on these. And i dont replace bearing either so maybe 1 in 10 i get at the shop ends up on the floor. Its too bad they make these so flimsy now and keep slapping that super capcity on there so people overlaod and kill them in 2-5 years max
Yeah! You nailed it. Flimsy is too kind.
I have been repairing washers and dryers off and on since I was a kid in the 70's. I will take an old "wig-wag" over most of these newer models!!!
Mr. Harper has told me about those and he has a bunch of parts for them too. I have never had to work on one. I think they are considered machines of antiquity now. I wonder if any are still out there in my community??
@@HarperandKnowles ive never seen one either. The oldest washer i have and have worked on is a maytag manufactured april of 1966. Still runs.
I thought I was an old geezer but I think Tony has me beat!!