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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2017
- This video is an install and review of the SeaFlo RV Accumulator Tank. This is similar to the popular ShurFlo brand. Promises to quiet pump and stop that famous RV pump shutter or hammering. Install took about 20 minutes and was straight forward. To complete the install I purchased some 1/2 inch braided FDA grade nylon tubing and two hose clamps. Overall I think it was a positive upgrade. Affiliate links to the SeaFlo RV Accumulator Tank and nylon tubing are below.
Get the SeaFlo RV Accumulator Tank on Amazon: amzn.to/2ufSTdm
Get the 1/2 inch Braided FDA Nylon Tubing on Amazon: amzn.to/2gOhils
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Thanks. I have a 32 ft forest river forester 2013. Not much room in the pump compartment. Looks very similar to your, same pump as yours. The filter is directly next to the pump, and the back board is blocked. So I’m going to have to figure out another mounting method. But I’m happy to view your video. I’m going to save it for future reference. I will also subscribe to hour sight. You were Recommeded by another site that showed how to Winterize. You guys are professional!!! Thanks for the info on antifreeze!
Thanks for the help!
Thanks so much Jerry! Also you can mount an accumulator tank anywhere in the cold water lines it does not need to be near the pump.
Thank you for this video! Super helpful!! 👍
Hi Emily, You're so welcome!
Should got the seaflo pump and accumulator combo. Comes on a nice platform all plumbed and rdy. Even wiring is easy cuz they wired the pump into some quick connectors.
This is so awesome! I just bought one for my truck camper.🎉🎉🎉
I eventually replaced the ShurFlo pump with the SeaFlo pump. It is so quiet compared to the Shurflo, Also a great upgrade.
@@RVHabit might have to do that eventually. I’ll be running a camplux pump cuz that’s what I bought. 😎✌🏼
Very nice and clean install. 30 bucks is a good deal. I will have to check my bay and see what space I have. Yes of course I will make a video... LOL. Im sure my space will only take a small tank as well. Very cool.
Thank you for commenting. I put it in the water bay which made it easy to connect but it can go anywhere in the rig on the pressure side, even just T'eed in to the line. It does help with the dreaded water pump hammer and it makes your water flow super smooth regardless of how high or low you turn your faucet on.
Should have bought the SeaFlo series 55 pump too! 1/2 the noise of any pump I've ever heard. That combo with the accumulator tank is a home run!
Yes I am still amazed how quiet this pump is.
Thanks for sharing
Great video, thank you!
Hi and thank you. I appreciate you taking time to comment.
Just ordered one. Mainly the price and they have it on prime. should have by Friday. Thanks
Yes I got mine on prime also. I agree was a great price. Good luck on the install.
The pressure tank has to be with the air valve up or can be down?
Great vid thanks, still happy with it, any water or air leaks developed? I noticed it also has slightly more volume than the Shurflo, 0.75L vs 0.62L
Hi John, Still works great. I check the air pressure at the beginning of every season.
@@RVHabit Cheers, they're half the price of the Shurflo one here in Oz.
Would there be any benefit to linking 2 or more of these inline? Not possible with your space, but in lieu of finding space for a much larger 2 gallon tank, would that just further reduce the amount that the pump has to cycle on and off?
Yes, you could link multiple units together or at least in the same system.
I seen your review on Amazon...thanks a bunch for the video....I seen where you stated in the comments that more than one could be installed..could these be put under the bathroom or kitchen sink for just the hot water or should they stay on the cold side....thanks
Expansion tanks typically are only installed on the cold water side. You can add them under any sink or any other place a cold water line exists.
It's been a very interesting video how has it done over the last 4 years and how do you preset pressures on tank before install
Hi it has held up and is still working great. I check and adjust air pressure every year. There is a Schrader valve on top to add or remove air.
Very well explained thanks.
I've very little room in my camper van plus it's tiny compared to yours. The pump on off switch is in easy reach from the sink. I keep off when not using it so I don't think it is really worth my while to fit one of these.
If I ever decide to though your video was very helpful.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment. Happy travels.
Hello, thanks for the video. How do I set the pressure?
There is a schrader valve on top. Use a tire pressure gauge to determine the current pressure and adjust accordingly by removing or adding air.
Nice install. I run one too. Question: do you bypass the accumulator when you winterize?
HI, I do not bypass the accumulator when winterizing. I do however unscrew the connections as a final step so there is no pressure in any lines.
Great video - but how do you know what PSI you are adjusting the accumulator to; -3 psi to pump - is there a gauge or ? to verify? Thx
Use a regular tire pressure gauge on the Schrader valve on the accumulator tank.
two questions:
1. Does the accumulator tank have to be straight up? My water pump lays down and there is room for the accumulator tank to lay beside it - is that ok?
2. I have an extra value for the bypass hose to winterize, does that valve go between the pump and the accumulator tank?
Hi, great questions. First, the accumulator tank can go in any position. It does not even need to be near the pump. Its only requirement is it needs to be after the pump, on the pressurized side. As for the second question. The winterizing valve is on the intake side of the pump. The accumulator goes on the output side of the pump. So the answer is no the accumulator tank goes anywhere in the pressurized side of the RV plumbing. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video, but how you adjust the pressure of the tank to 35 psi...?
There is a schrader valve on top. You can use a bicycle pump.
Hi, did you reset the pressure in the accumulator “before” installing? Or is it working ok with the 10 psi that it came with? Thanks
I properly charged the accumulator tank with a battery-operated pump. A hand bicycle pump is also very good. I do not recommend a compressor as damage may occur.
Thanks for that great video. I found you because I was looking to find out how to adjust the seaflo accumulator tank as there are no indications on the top of the tank where you twist to adjust so I’m unsure how to do that. Do you know??? Many thanks
A small bicycle pump will do it. The valve is a Schrader valve. You want to put in about 3 to 4 psi less than the pumps cut in pressure.
@@RVHabit yeah but bicycle pumps don’t tell you how many psi I am putting in . I don’t see others having any problem with this so I must be missing something as I’m a bit confused how to measure the psi
You need a tire pressure gauge. You can get one at any auto store, Amazon, or Walmart.
@@RVHabit thank you very much!!! Most helpful. 🌺🌸🌺🌸
I'm having a problem with water hammering when I flush my toilet, my camper is hooked up to well water from our campground, would this help or is this strictly for when your running of your pump? I was thinking about putting it inline on the main line feeding the toilet behind it... Your thoughts Please...
Yes, the hammering most refer to is the actual water pump. So when you're using your fresh water tank and water pump, the water pump can "hammer" when trying to deliver small amounts of water. When you're connected to the campground water supply, typically called "city water" your water pump should be turned off. You do not need the water pump on when connected to an outside water source. I would see no benefit the accumulator tank would have when connected to "city water". Is it possible you left your water pump on even though you connected to the campground water supply? Good luck let us know how you make out.
No my water pump is not on I was just curious knowing that in a house you have air Chambers that you can install to avoid the hammering I just thought this might help if I installed it behind the toilet?
No, I have not heard of that for an RV. I have heard that due to the rigidity of the Pex lines they can bang a bit. Some people replace the trouble area with a more flexible water line in that area. Also if your getting a lot of movement in the water line make sure you're not getting too high of water pressure from the campground. Up to 55 psi is acceptable.
How do you set the pressure on the bladder ? It says 3psi less than cut in but nothing advertises cut in. Trial and error ?
Just google your specific pump and you should be able to find the cut in and cut off pressure. then use a tire pressure gauge on the top of the bladder to read pressure.
What is the middle hose going to? The one coming out of the middle of the shut off valve.
That is a winterizing bypass hose. You rotate the water shut off valve and that hose allows you to put antifreeze in the lines with the aid of water pump.
The hose you purchased looks bigger than the other hoses around your tank. Is that an optical illusion or is the new hose bigger inoutside diameter than the existing hoses?
Well it may be a little larger OD than the pex but not noticeable. I think it is just the camera
Does the accumulator need to be upright? I've got a very small area to work with.
The accumulator tank can be mounted in any orientation.
That hose you used is rated for 125F, is our RV water heater heat the water to so where around 140ish?
Hi Grant, the Accumulator tank only goes on the cold water line. Hot water should never be run into an Accumulator tank. Great observation. Thanks for watching.
Nice vid. Clean and easy to follow. I’m about to install one. How do you go about setting the correct pressure of the accumulator tank?
Use a regular tire pressure gauge to check tank PSI. It does not take much air to change the pressure since it is small. Any compressor or bicycle type pump will do.
RV Habit thank you! And just to ask on final thing. How do you know the cut in pressure of the water pump? I can’t see if anywhere on my pump. It states 35psi cut off. Does that mean my accumulator tank needs to be set to 32psi (3 below)
@@robby.barron You need to set the tank 3 to 4 psi below the cut in pressure. My water pump turns on at 40 psi and off at 55 psi. This is pretty typical of most rv water pumps. I keep my tank at about 35 psi. If there is to much pressure in the tank the pump will turn off before the pump can push the pressure in the tank and fill it with water. I hope that makes sense. You can Google your specific water pump for the specs and should be able to find the exact cut in and out psi. Good luck.
I bought the exact same tank and the threads were not NPT standard. I could have forced them on but that would have boogered the pump or the tank or both.
Maybe they have changed. I upgraded to brass fittings and they were NPT. Hope it all worked out. Thanks for sharing.
Any recommendations on a 2 gallon accumulator tank?
If you can fit a 2 gallon accumulator tank in your rig SeaFlo actually makes one. It is reasonably priced at under $45. I have not personally used it but I have been happy with SeaFlo's pump and accumulator tank I have. You can check it out at amzn.to/2VZGOVh
What about Winterizing RV with anti-freeze? Do you disconnect the accumulator to prevent anti freeze from entering?
no I leave accumulator in place. It handles the RV antifreeze fine. Then after your finished and the system has no pressure there will be no antifreeze in accumulator as the air bladder will push it out.
Hi sorry if it sounds dumb but how do I actually set the pressure? Like at the gas station where you do your tires kind of place? Thanks
Hi, There is a Schrader valve on top of the accumulator tank. Just use an air pressure gauge to determine the pressure. Fill with something manual like a bicycle pump. Using an air compressor may burst the bladder as it is very small.
@@RVHabit Thanks I'll give it a try
Hey mate, how do you set your accumulator tank.
There is a schrader valve on top. Use a tire pressure gauge to determine the current pressure and adjust accordingly by removing or adding air. You need to set the tank 3 to 4 psi below the cut in pressure. My water pump turns on at 40 psi and off at 55 psi. This is pretty typical of most rv water pumps. I keep my tank at about 35 psi. If there is to much pressure in the tank the pump will turn off before the pump can push the pressure in the tank and fill it with water. You can Google your specific water pump for the specs and should be able to find the exact cut in and out psi. Good luck.
Maybe the right question is… Does The pressure tank have intake & outtake specific direction? In what direction the flow goes? I may installed the wrong way, upside down.
Hi Alberto, since it has a bladder inside it can be mounted in any direction although I would not mount the Schrader valve at the bottom. You can even cap one end and just attach one end to the cold water line.
@@RVHabit Finally I managed to fix the pressure jump, It was just to remove a little bit of air of the tank. Thanks. I installed the tank upside down & it works.
@@RVHabit hello againnn!!!
I’m having trouble with the pressure tank. First it was ok, little jumps on the sink, then I removed a little pressure and started to function perfect. Yesterday the pressure in the sink was to low, I try to inject some pressure but nothing happens. Any ideas? The water pump its working ok.
Low pressure is the water pump or the sink aerator is clogged. The aerator tank should only even out the pressure. Even if the accumulator tank had no air in it the water would still run.
Peace… Salam... Shalom... Namaste and Thank You so much for All that you are doing to Heal our Mother Earth 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ 🌷 ❤
Anyone have a system without an air bladder/accumulating tank?
I hate them along with any pressure tank. They always fail. Then the pump burns out from constant cycling.
Just wondering if anyone uses a pump without one? Use a flo meter instead. I hear some pumps are now "smart" pumps and has a sensor built in.
Most RV's do not come with an accumulator tank. RV pumps are designed with a pressure switch. When you call for water such as opening a faucet the pump turns on. When you shut the faucet the pump turns off.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
I only got a brief look at his compartment, and it seems that the larger compartment has enough space; so why don't you attach the tank to the right side of the compartment, run the hose to the pump?
Hi Cameron great question. There is a door that closes hiding and protecting the water pump, water filter and now the water accumulator. I wanted to try to keep it behind the door. I use the main compartment to throw my fresh water hoses and other misc, equipment. I figured the accumulator would get banged around to much. Thanks so much for commenting and watching.
Thanks for responding; I don't yet have an RV, but seeing enough of these on TH-cam, I figured why not throw in my .5 cents to the mix. At least you'll get a different perspective from a non RV'er for now.
TH-cam is a great place to learn about RV's. There are many great people here that love to share. I assume your looking for an RV since you said "yet". Good luck in your search and my advice is take your time and make sure the one thing you love is the floorplan. Stay Safe.
We are, we're both married and in our mid-60's; so things that are important to a young family with children (
How is 35lbs 2,3 lbs below 40?....😅😅😅