I actually burnt out my first pump trying to conserve water without an accumulator tank. Found out from the company that the pump isn’t meant to flow water like that because the constant cycling due to the low pressure will eventually burn out the pump. Will definitely be buying an accumulator tank for that reason. Great video!
I absolutely AGREE with this video! I have had both a European motorhome and a large 31 ft American RV motorhome and I had water leaks in both! Carrying spares and knowing how to fix things is part of the RV experience! ☺
Yes water leaks seem to be very common, and everyone should be prepared to fix them if they can. It's a lot easier, faster, and more convenient than sending it to a repair shop for a simple fix.
Thank you very much for this explanation. I'm doing a bus conversion and was contemplating whether or not to add a pressure tank to the system I'm building from scratch. I'm definitely going to use one now. 👍
My Gosh! Thank you, thank you for this video. I had a Truma AguaGo installed and that clunking sound was so annoying. Sounds like an accumulator tank is in my future!
Thanks for the tips, they do really help out, And it's ture, my son took out the kids to the lake, last weekend and the pump went out, so I got one at Amazon and I also got the Expansion tank cause I've seen it on other RV's, Last year my wife and I were out on a trip and the toilet went kaput and the only place open, was the ACE Hardware store, and had to re route the water inlet to a makeshift hose bibb and a washing machine hose so we could flush the toilet.
Yes the accumulator tank is much better than the bypass adjustment. That adjustment is useless for evening out the pump cycle when trying to save water.
@jcardosa02 no switch required. It is just water line connections. You place this next to the water pump. You disconnect the "out" water line on the existing water pump and use that line to connect to the out on the accumulator. Then you need a new short hose that connects the 'out" of the pump to the "in" of the accumulator.
@@jcardosa02 Yes you would always want a switch for the water pump. The RV's already come with a water pump switch so I didn't have to install a new switch. The accumulator doesn't need power. It only works off water pressure (automatically) so you don't need to add power to it.
Consider adding a check value right before going into the water heater. That should help prevent a blast of cold water from the shower when turning the shower on and off. Another option is to add a check value on both hot and cold water supply just before going into the shower. I'm not a professional plumber, so others may have better ideas to prevent cold water shock between cycling water on and off. There's nothing like getting a blast of cold water while your head is full of shampoo.
Yes the checks valves would help for a typical water heater set up where cold water can mix into the hot water line. My last two RVs have the Truma comfort plus that have a dedicated recirculating hot water line to all the fixtures. If those lines are run correctly then the check valves would be unnecessary. The only downside to any type of tankless water heater is a steady pressure of water required.
It's impressive that the apparently tiny 2 to 4 oz of water capacity in this accumulator is providing sufficient buffering! Some folks have installed 2 gallon pressure tanks to get more capacity, do you think that would perform any better than this compact solution? Your videos have been super helpful - thank you very much!
It depends on what your desire for pump cycling. In the video, you saw how slow the pump cycled using the bathroom sink. It's about the same for the shower if you trickle it the same as the video. But if you want higher water pressure, of course it's going to cycle more often or even right away. My goal is to conserve water so I'm happy with this set up. If you flush the toilet full foot pedal step, the pump will cycle right almost right away though. The factory PSI on this accumulator is 30psi, but it's adjustable up to 125. I have mine set up at 45 PSI and am satisfied. As for the larger tank, if you have the space, it wouldn't hurt that's for sure but I'm ok with this set up. Hope that helps.
Save yourself the headache. Its one more item to fail and two more connections that can leak. Install a Seaflo 56a variable speed pump with no acc tank. Quiet, efficient and no cycling.
I might try this pump out in my new RV. Have you had an accumulator tank installed before and did a comparison? Wondering is one is better than the other, or about the same, but with less hassle of having an additional part?
How is the seaflow 51 series able to act the same as an accumulator? It's not variable speed at all, so at really low flow, it would cycle on and off wouldn't it? I'm still debating on the 56a variable pump on my new RV, but the reviews on it are terrible.
I have a pump similar to that pump. It certainly DOES surge & cycle. They are all the same. GET an accumulator tank. It has many benefits. & If you know how to connect plumbing properly nothing leaks.
How do you pressurize the tank with out the air leaking out once you pump it up. I can never get the pressure correct because when I release the air pump valve it always has a quick moment where the air leaks from the accumulator.
If you have it hooked up already, I would shut off the pump, open a faucet to relieve pressure in your plumbing lines, then add air to 45-50 psi. It's not an exact science. Once you add air, shut off the faucet and turn on the pump. That will make the pump run and add more pressure to the bag inside the accumulator tank. You may have to fine tune it. You may also have to add more air. Not sure why air would leak out when you remove it. What kind of air chuck are you using?
I've never had to winterize, but I'm pretty sure it has winterizing instructions. There is a schrader valve on the end to fill and drain the air bladder that is inside. I would think you winterize like normal, and may have to release the air from the schrader valve, but the manual would let you know.
I would kill to have that open access to my water pump. My pump is installed in a tight space under the bedroom floor and buried in wires. I have wanted to install an accumulator but haven’t found a good place for it. Nice video with excellent recommendations.
I was talking to someone with a 24J and they said the same thing. Could you mount the accumulator further away and just get flexible hoses to connect to pump? You could extend the factory hoses with male adapters and the braided flex hoses.
Good tech info! Curious is the tank compatible with other pumps? I had truma put the aqua go comfort in my 2021 gulfstream conquest 6320 which is 33’8” and get no clunks or nothing and my water temp is constant. I’m on my second water pump and it’s super quiet. Has good volume. It might be an extra advantage with that tank but don’t know, still like it tho!👍
The accumulator can be used with any pump. My pump is quiet also. My water pressure is steady when on medium or high. It is only when it's on super slow trickle (with the trickle valves I out in that the water can surge with the cycle of the pump and that can effect temps. We are talking literally ounces of water during drycamping. I talked to Truma back in early 2020 and they had a pressure regulator for the fix (mine is a 2020 model with 2019 parts). Perhaps Truma made some updates or it could be a Winnebago thing. Not sure if you have the low flow aerator but if you trickle it to extreme low, the water flow will be an issue with pretty much most RV pumps. Any regular or higher pressure, this is not an issue at all. Thanks for the input on your newer Truma.
Don't use pex because they vibrate and make noise. Jus go ole fashion flesh hose, barb fitting and hose clamps. You won't need to carry all those tools around and if you develop a leak all ya gotta do is pop off hose clamp, cut leaky section out and pop it back on.
Yes the flex hose with barbed fittings or factory connectors is a better choice. I plan on doing that on my new RV. Those tools though are for rest of the RV. Leaks were quite common throughout the RV. I replaced majority of all the connectors that leaked throughout.
I prefer the truma over the 10 gallon because it has a recirculating function, and the water is instantly hot at all your fixtures. The only thing I miss about the 10 gallon water heater is the option for electric heat also. The Truma doesn't have an electric option at all, so if you are plugged in, you still have to use the propane.
I actually burnt out my first pump trying to conserve water without an accumulator tank. Found out from the company that the pump isn’t meant to flow water like that because the constant cycling due to the low pressure will eventually burn out the pump. Will definitely be buying an accumulator tank for that reason. Great video!
Sounds good. You will definitely like how the accumulator works especially when trying to save water.
I absolutely AGREE with this video! I have had both a European motorhome and a large 31 ft American RV motorhome and I had water leaks in both! Carrying spares and knowing how to fix things is part of the RV experience! ☺
Yes water leaks seem to be very common, and everyone should be prepared to fix them if they can. It's a lot easier, faster, and more convenient than sending it to a repair shop for a simple fix.
@@rvlifediy Yes, I think the learning is part of it all AND I think it's ALL still worth it! ☺
Thank you very much for this explanation. I'm doing a bus conversion and was contemplating whether or not to add a pressure tank to the system I'm building from scratch. I'm definitely going to use one now. 👍
Great. I think you will be very happy you do. My new RV definitely needs one.
My Gosh! Thank you, thank you for this video. I had a Truma AguaGo installed and that clunking sound was so annoying. Sounds like an accumulator tank is in my future!
Yes I'm surprised more people don't complain about that sound. It drove me crazy. The accumulator will definitely fix the issue.
I use a sure flow accumulator tank with my seaflow 42 series pump and All steel braided threaded lines no issues
Thanks for the tips, they do really help out, And it's ture, my son took out the kids to the lake, last weekend and the pump went out, so I got one at Amazon and I also got the Expansion tank cause I've seen it on other RV's, Last year my wife and I were out on a trip and the toilet went kaput and the only place open, was the ACE Hardware store, and had to re route the water inlet to a makeshift hose bibb and a washing machine hose so we could flush the toilet.
Thanks for watching and comment. Yes a spare pump is always a must have for me now.
I always carry extra plumbing stuff in a plastic box here in my van i live in
Thanks for sharing this upgrade. Nice job.
Thank you
The sure flow 4008 pump has a bypass it needs to be set but a accumulator tank helps alot more
Yes the accumulator tank is much better than the bypass adjustment. That adjustment is useless for evening out the pump cycle when trying to save water.
Thankyou. I'm installing an accumulator tank . I found your video xtremely helpful and very informative..... TY...😃👌🖐
Ok great and thanks for watching.
great video so easy to follow. wish u showed us the pressure of the water now
I'll have a new video with full install process in the future. I'll make sure to show the pressure before and after install.
@@rvlifediy thank you! do i have to add an on/off switch to the pump?
@jcardosa02 no switch required. It is just water line connections. You place this next to the water pump. You disconnect the "out" water line on the existing water pump and use that line to connect to the out on the accumulator. Then you need a new short hose that connects the 'out" of the pump to the "in" of the accumulator.
@@rvlifediy i’m sorry i meant for the water pump lol
@@jcardosa02 Yes you would always want a switch for the water pump. The RV's already come with a water pump switch so I didn't have to install a new switch. The accumulator doesn't need power. It only works off water pressure (automatically) so you don't need to add power to it.
Consider adding a check value right before going into the water heater. That should help prevent a blast of cold water from the shower when turning the shower on and off. Another option is to add a check value on both hot and cold water supply just before going into the shower. I'm not a professional plumber, so others may have better ideas to prevent cold water shock between cycling water on and off. There's nothing like getting a blast of cold water while your head is full of shampoo.
Yes the checks valves would help for a typical water heater set up where cold water can mix into the hot water line. My last two RVs have the Truma comfort plus that have a dedicated recirculating hot water line to all the fixtures. If those lines are run correctly then the check valves would be unnecessary. The only downside to any type of tankless water heater is a steady pressure of water required.
It's impressive that the apparently tiny 2 to 4 oz of water capacity in this accumulator is providing sufficient buffering! Some folks have installed 2 gallon pressure tanks to get more capacity, do you think that would perform any better than this compact solution? Your videos have been super helpful - thank you very much!
It depends on what your desire for pump cycling. In the video, you saw how slow the pump cycled using the bathroom sink. It's about the same for the shower if you trickle it the same as the video. But if you want higher water pressure, of course it's going to cycle more often or even right away. My goal is to conserve water so I'm happy with this set up. If you flush the toilet full foot pedal step, the pump will cycle right almost right away though. The factory PSI on this accumulator is 30psi, but it's adjustable up to 125. I have mine set up at 45 PSI and am satisfied. As for the larger tank, if you have the space, it wouldn't hurt that's for sure but I'm ok with this set up. Hope that helps.
Save yourself the headache. Its one more item to fail and two more connections that can leak. Install a Seaflo 56a variable speed pump with no acc tank. Quiet, efficient and no cycling.
I might try this pump out in my new RV. Have you had an accumulator tank installed before and did a comparison? Wondering is one is better than the other, or about the same, but with less hassle of having an additional part?
My seaflo 51 series is a beast, no accumulator needed either.
How is the seaflow 51 series able to act the same as an accumulator? It's not variable speed at all, so at really low flow, it would cycle on and off wouldn't it? I'm still debating on the 56a variable pump on my new RV, but the reviews on it are terrible.
I have a pump similar to that pump. It certainly DOES surge & cycle. They are all the same. GET an accumulator tank. It has many benefits. & If you know how to connect plumbing properly nothing leaks.
@@rvlifediyit doesn't. He doesn't know what he's talking about.
Another great video......keep them coming, Thanks Craig
Thanks Craig. Many more in the works.
How do you pressurize the tank with out the air leaking out once you pump it up. I can never get the pressure correct because when I release the air pump valve it always has a quick moment where the air leaks from the accumulator.
If you have it hooked up already, I would shut off the pump, open a faucet to relieve pressure in your plumbing lines, then add air to 45-50 psi. It's not an exact science. Once you add air, shut off the faucet and turn on the pump. That will make the pump run and add more pressure to the bag inside the accumulator tank. You may have to fine tune it. You may also have to add more air. Not sure why air would leak out when you remove it. What kind of air chuck are you using?
I have been meaning to do this mod. Great video. What about winterizing? What do you do with the tank in the system?
I've never had to winterize, but I'm pretty sure it has winterizing instructions. There is a schrader valve on the end to fill and drain the air bladder that is inside. I would think you winterize like normal, and may have to release the air from the schrader valve, but the manual would let you know.
I would kill to have that open access to my water pump. My pump is installed in a tight space under the bedroom floor and buried in wires. I have wanted to install an accumulator but haven’t found a good place for it. Nice video with excellent recommendations.
I was talking to someone with a 24J and they said the same thing. Could you mount the accumulator further away and just get flexible hoses to connect to pump? You could extend the factory hoses with male adapters and the braided flex hoses.
@@rvlifediy This is a good suggestion that lets me give it a second thought. Thanks.
Good tech info! Curious is the tank compatible with other pumps? I had truma put the aqua go comfort in my 2021 gulfstream conquest 6320 which is 33’8” and get no clunks or nothing and my water temp is constant. I’m on my second water pump and it’s super quiet. Has good volume. It might be an extra advantage with that tank but don’t know, still like it tho!👍
The accumulator can be used with any pump. My pump is quiet also. My water pressure is steady when on medium or high. It is only when it's on super slow trickle (with the trickle valves I out in that the water can surge with the cycle of the pump and that can effect temps. We are talking literally ounces of water during drycamping. I talked to Truma back in early 2020 and they had a pressure regulator for the fix (mine is a 2020 model with 2019 parts). Perhaps Truma made some updates or it could be a Winnebago thing. Not sure if you have the low flow aerator but if you trickle it to extreme low, the water flow will be an issue with pretty much most RV pumps. Any regular or higher pressure, this is not an issue at all. Thanks for the input on your newer Truma.
Hello, I just installed an accumulator tank. Was wondering what pressure you set your tank to? Thx
I believ I had mine set to 45 to 50 psi but you can experiment on what works best for you.
What size Pex tubing are you using?
Everything is 1/2 inch pex
how much air pressure do you have in the accumulator tank
About 45psi. It comes with 30
Thanks for the detailed info, very helpful👍
No problem
Don't use pex because they vibrate and make noise. Jus go ole fashion flesh hose, barb fitting and hose clamps. You won't need to carry all those tools around and if you develop a leak all ya gotta do is pop off hose clamp, cut leaky section out and pop it back on.
Yes the flex hose with barbed fittings or factory connectors is a better choice. I plan on doing that on my new RV. Those tools though are for rest of the RV. Leaks were quite common throughout the RV. I replaced majority of all the connectors that leaked throughout.
So it’s like a water capacitor
Yeah basically similar concept instead of an electrical charge, it's constantly charged with air from the incoming water pressure.
I would replace that water heater with a 10 gallon electric one
I prefer the truma over the 10 gallon because it has a recirculating function, and the water is instantly hot at all your fixtures. The only thing I miss about the 10 gallon water heater is the option for electric heat also. The Truma doesn't have an electric option at all, so if you are plugged in, you still have to use the propane.
@@rvlifediy yea I use a Rheem 6 gal in my camper Van
what is the exact pump that you're using here? not the accumulator, but the water pump :D
Are you looking for the water pump model number?
@@rvlifediy brand and model number, yes please :D I like how quiet it is!
It's a Pentair (Shurflo) 4008-101-A65 3.0 GPM and also a link amzn.to/3yefvuR. It is pretty quiet unless you get air in the system.
@@rvlifediy thank you soooo much!
@@aaronpetrossian9203 👍
Why u stop making videos?? You’re too good at this to stop?
Still making videos but not as often. Have a really busy schedule.
A guy needs to get into a situation where he’s too busy to work….😎
@keithalexander2412 so true. Getting there soon.