Creality Ender 3, CR-10 - Hotend PTFE Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ม.ค. 2019
- Chuck uses an Ender3, CR10 Hotend PTFE Fix to correct a common issue on these 3D printers. Typically the PTFE tubing will lift away from the nozzle leaving a gap and forming a blockage. Chuck shows you two alternatives to fix that problem.
My Custom Coupling:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:334...
Capricorn Tubing: amzn.to/2nI2ipS
Original Coupling:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:199...
Original Creality hot end ptfe fix:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:320...
CR10 Hotend Model:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:292...
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-----------
PTFE Coupling: amzn.to/2BJDog1
Capricorn Tubing: amzn.to/2nI2ipS
CR10/Ender3 Silicon Heater Block Cover: amzn.to/2PaxJ89
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Check out my update on this hotend fix here:
th-cam.com/video/7tCxO17XZtw/w-d-xo.html
thoughr my ender 3 nozzle had a washer right above it in the hot end but was a perfectly round black charred circle of plastic wow
Chuck, i'm the author of the original coupling and your improvement is really clever. I like it!
Once I'll connect to the thingiverse, I'll put a link on your modified version into the description.
Thanks and wish you many successful prints!
You did the hard part. What software did you use to design it.
@@FilamentFriday For all my 3D designs, I'm using Rhinoceros 5.0 (but planning to buy an upgrade to 6.0).
It uses NURBS model for calculating 3D instead of mashes but includes useful tool for stl export.
A properly assembled stock hot end will never experience this problem. I am glad this works and it is a novel solution. I would prefer however not to add more steps and complexity to my configurations.
I applaud the creative solutions though. All 3 of them and your remix of the 2 to make them even more convenient.
Sure, but the couplings that come from creality will fail sooner than later, at least they did for me on two printers. May as well kill two birds with one stone like with this solution.
Over time couplings fail especially after a lot of retractions push to create the gap. If it wasn’t a common issue I wouldn’t get the views I got on my previous video showing how to properly fix it with better couplings. This is an alternative many viewers suggested.
CHEP nothing wrong with that. Your viewers have the choice. My Cr 10 mini works fine but if I ever have such problems I’ll definitely try out this solution.
oh like I said nothing wrong with creative solution. like I said I especially like your combination of both of them into a single convenient part. elegant.
but I have never had a coupler fail past burn in. I have had them come basically DOA. install the spare and never a problem again. I would consider it a low failure component. of course you do need to install it right and secure the clip. if its allowed to ride back and forth it will eventually chew the PTFE tube. most are damaged on removal not on use. users don't remove them right wreck them and when reinstalled they fail. if you can't get the PTFE tube out stop trying. remove the compression fitting push the fitting FURTHER into the tube while depressing twisting and then reversing direction to slide it off.
creality recognizes some of this issue and now includes nice clips with the printers. I hope to see them included across the board soon and also for sale nice and cheap :-)
BTW I also LOVE your teaching aid you got their for the hot end in cut away. FREAKING cool! did you fab that up or get it from somewhere else?
@@FilamentFriday
Link is in the description for the hotend STL I started with and then I designed the rest in Tinkercad.
Thank you!
I was trying to fix this problem for a few months and I was hopeless but now after printing your coupler my ender 3 is making perfect prints
Thank you so much for these! You just helped me fix my CR10s5. I watched this video and the one about hot end gap. That was my problem. I also want to thank you for all the getting started with electronics books from Radio Shack. I learned electronics from those when I was in high school. I'm 65 now, so those helped me for a lifetime.
Just printed and installed this on my CR-10s today. Worked perfect. Thank you!
In the short amount of time I've been using my Ender 3 Pro you've been an invaluable source of innovative content, .STLs, and overall advice! Keep up the great work.
Chuck, thanks for a wonderful tour of the inside of the Ender 3 and CR10 hotends. It's so helpful when trying to resolve people's extrusion issues! Thank you again for a wonderfully done video!
you are the boss. Save my life...I had to finish some work and the Custom Coupling work perfect. In my country there is no parts in stock. Thanks man.
Newbie here, broke my coupler trying to get the PTFE out after I was having some minor issues... I was able to use an alligator clip to grab onto the PTFE and some wire to hold the clip to the hotend shroud long enough for me to print this, you've saved me a week of waiting for new couplers and I'm already back to printing!
Many thanks and happy new year!
Once again Chuck some research and practical input goes a long way Thanks for bringing this to my attention and the community !!!
Great video. I hope to receive my ender pro by latest next week Tuesday, and this will be my very first upgrades. I've been working on these creality machines over two years, and I will confirm that this is a very common problem with older technology hotend designs across the board. The old Ultimakers2 also used to have that problem which is fixed in the um3 versions onward.
Wow! This is one of my favorite channels and for good reason!
I just printed this for my Ender 3. I had a piece of Capricorn tube that was too short for a Bowden tube so I used it for the hot end piece. I think I left it a little too long because my first test was seriously under extruded, suggesting unwanted friction somewhere. I backed the fitting out of the heat sink and printing improved.
I remeasured a few things and decided I was a bit long. Even with the good cutters, it is hard to take off 1 mm and get a square cut on the end (well for me at least) so I just cut another piece to length. It is now about 1mm above the heat sink and it is printing better than ever! AND I'll never have to buy one of those fittings again! I printed a second spare just in case I ever need it.
Now I'm off to find an STL for the one on the extruder.
Ill try right away! Yesterday i was in a hurry and your video saved me. Man i really love what you are doing!
This is actually brilliant. Good job
Thank you! You just helped me fix a problem I just couldn't figure out. Thanks also for all the getting started with electronics little books from Radio Shack. I taught myself electronics using your books when I was in high school. That knowledge was more useful than anything they taught at the school.
Hi. I’ve been using One Bad Marine’s fix for a week or two with success. Will give your update a try too. Thank you.
Gonna give this a try this weekend! Thanks Chuck as always well done!
From week to week we get something revolutionary from you.
Brilliant!!! That is an amazing solution.
Can’t wait until next Friday to see what new lesson you will have. Thx
This was the bane of my existence for the past month
Trying to fix this
This helped me a lot as I had same problem with fan that I hadn't noticed , now replaced fan all is good again 👍👍
Hey Chuck, Thats incredible. I'm certain there are a ton of people that will find this a god-send.
Thank you @KRrekTM and Chuck. Thanks for doing this Chuck I have been floundering with my CR10S.
Thank you Chuck! you helped us with our da vinci's now you're helping us with our creality printers thank you for your help and advice by showing us the figurative potholes on our 3d printing road!
You’re welcome
I just subbed because of this video. Freaking life saver. My CR10 is printing like a champ once i did the little trapped ptfe tube trick. THANK YOU!
i had the fitting/coupling break over the weekend, so i made this, and the luke hotend fix, and its just works, i got new parts monday, but im not changing it, its works
This is awesome - I won't need this mod on my old printer but the original coupling will likely replace the cheap metal coupling I use on my old printer my 12 y.o. has - it looks like it'll grip the PTFE tube better and there is no risk of little metal teeth dropping into the hot end (which has happened to me on several occasions and is a royal pain to fix).
Thanks!
Nice job, you delivered stability 💝
never stop making vids please you are defo the best om yt i found explained every issue how you found it multiple solutions every issue i had was fixed by you basicaly so thanks a bunch!
Glad I could help.
thanks for this. i just had a blockage from the ptfe not seated correctly. it is very easy for there to be a tiny gap which eventually leads to a clog
Great video. I’m not having problems, but if I do, I’ll definitely try this. Please do an update on this in a couple months and maybe summarize all your mods and how happy you are longer term.
love this video. i seen the idea of the piece of ptfe in the hot end with a washer just havent had a chance to really try it. but since this video i do like your clamp idea way better. reason it it can help identify a problem that absolutely nothing else can identify. potential fan failure. freakin awsome.
Got my first 3D printer for Christmas. Binged all of your youtube videos and learned a whole lot, especially about tinkercad, so I just became a Patreon supporter. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge. BTW, I remember when Connor played for the Riverhawks!
Wow, that was a long time ago. Thanks for watching and your support. Register at CHEPCLUB.com and I’ll upgrade your registration to match your Patreon level.
This is a really good solution. It's the style of the duplicator i3 mini which of all the problems that it has, clogging is not one.
Great improvement, thanx for inventing and sharing it.
I dont own a machine compatible with this, but I've got to give Chuck props for this, its awesome
Great findings. Thanks for sharing.
So there I was bumbling around watching YT videos until my eyes bled, just another day on Furlough. I have had this nagging problem of ptfe tubing getting stuck in the hotend coupler so much so that I always have to cut it off and renew the tubing.
Then as if I was touched by an all powerful Deity( more likely a draught from the lounge window) in my bumbling I bumbled onto Cheps channel and there it was a 3d printed hotend coupler . So simple yet beautiful. I am a lazy git and have been meaning to add Chep on Patreon for ages but Furlough has a way of focusing your mind on the small but now important stuff. I mean I could be dead next week so I did it. Please don't thank me Chep it's not much. I think the tiers are Gold,Silver and Bronze. I'm on the Wet Cardboard one. Please just do what you obviously like doing and if having lots of Patrons means you don't have to take as much shit as you may have used to then good for you.LLAP
Thanks as always great videos. Answered my newbie question in the intro. The question which is not answered in just about any other place that is how far in does the ptfe tube go.
Excellent work and research! A++!
Nice Job Chep, great idea. Thanks.
Thank you this came just in time I just experienced my first clog
Keep up the good work chuck
Oh wow this is a great idea
When I next change nozzle I’ll do this
That's really great idea and fix!
Wasn't aware that this was an issue. I have 3 creality printers and never had a problem. Cut the tube flush, put it down the hotend and have good coupling sets. Also, I find it weird that you put capricorn tube inside hotend but not using it from the extruder to the hot end. I know it can take hotter temps, but the lower tolerance and smoother inside makes it worth using.
Cool idea and WOW that's an AMAZING print! (and I'm a print quality craze)
Pretty amazing job, man. Noted! Thanks a lot! 😊
I'm going to give this a go Thanks Chuck
Mind blowing, great job. Helped me really. Thx allot.
Maybe it has already been noted, but the printed fitting did not hold the Bowden tube on my CR10s. I was 15 minutes into my first print after the hotend fix when the filament pushed out the fitting. The male threaded portion looked very rough. I had printed a second one because it didn't look substantial enough... The 'nut', on the other hand, looked great. I was hoping to not have to buy the pneumatic push-lock fitting. Not the end of the world.
Thank's for the idea...great job!awesome!!!😁
I'm gonna do this to my Tornado. Thanks for the video and model. =)
dude, you are great! thanks for the videos!
The Boden tube coupler faild me and was nolonger holding the tube to the hot end will definitely get this printed out. In the mean time I used the smaller coupling and JB welded it to the larger coupler so I can print the parts
Using prints as schematic, awesome!
I will definitely use your brilliant idea, your awesome 😎!
Love this vídeo! Thanks for share, CHEP!!
Your content is amazing! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping peons like me.
We’re all learning. Glad I could help.
Getting it now, thank you
Nice, I’ll have to give that a try
You need to have that coupling design made in metal. Sign me up for a few. Great idea, I'm not sold on the plastic version. As a small volume printer, such a failure would ruin hours of work on a large print. I'd rather "push through" the print and get it done and replace teh fan as part of routine maintenance from time to time.
A coupling like that would be pretty easy to machine out of aluminum or brass as well. I might do that for our cr10s-pros in the shop here, because I 100% have been running into the issue of the ptfe tubing wiggling enough that after 50-100 hours of printing I get a backflow clog and have to disassemble and clean the hotend. Awesome ideas man!
If you do, I would totally buy 4
I'd totally buy a couple too! Shoot me a message if you make any!
@@schmaltzy82 if you do make these in metal I would like to buy as well
I'm not sure if you ended up with the XVico Pioneer but that little extra PTFE in the nozzle is how mine came, which I thought was curious. Sadly the ID is really really bad on it and I replaced with PTFE all the way down, but might go back to this method only with better tolerance tubes. Surprised the printed coupler held up!! Just goes to show even PLA can work for functional parts.
I have lots of functional PLA parts that I sell that hold up really well.
I have an XVico but haven’t taken it out of the box yet. Gotta get to that ;)
Thats Genius!!! Thanks chep
Great application and example of combining two great ideas into another great idea. I'm thinking that getting a tachometer might not be a bad idea to occasionally check the fan speed on workhorse printers. I would like to see future videos on maintaining your printer. I print a lot of PLA and PETG and have had great results (no clogs) with and prefer the hot ends with high quality PTFE sleeves (like Capricorn) all the way to the nozzle vs. all metal hot ends for these two filament materials.
Thermal camera would also work to have a reference for heatsink temperature, and will also show failed sections on a hot bed as well, along with failing connectors before they catch fire.
Awesome, thanks man!
Just found your sight & I like it Just a thought on that part to hold the tube in the top of the extruder I never use PLA for any parts on my printer. PTFE is the only filament I use on my printer it's just that much better at holding up under temperature. PTFE prints as easily as PLA so it's usually what I print with.
PETG I'm guessing is what you meant to say. Afaik there's no printer hard core enough to print with the heat resistant material PTFE.
I took a marker and dabbed a spot on the connecting area of the ptfe tube and coupling. I noticed the coupling was bad and replaced it. I've noticed by watching those marks that after putting better fittings, after a while the tube might not pull out but it might spin or rotate in the fitting. Doing this mod might prevent the tube from rotating in the heat break, if it even ever does.
I noticed today that on my Tevo Tornado the bowden tube on the extruder was moving in and out of the coupling quite a bit, And I have bad stringing that I haven't been able to solve. It always did that, but I really noticed it today. These couplings might help a lot!
That was the original reason as I showed in this video:
th-cam.com/video/x35aWmnZ_A0/w-d-xo.html
Great video once again.
I built an aluminum washer for my ENDER 3. This is a good fix, mine works flawlessly. Works better than an all metal Hot end. I print PETG all the time at 240-250C no problems. I have 260C PTFE Tube in the lower section. I ditched the ENDER 3 PTFE Couplers the first day, since one failed to hold the tube after the 2nd or 3rd print.
If you not sure, crank up those e steps and the junky originals will die very very quickly,. LOL
@@Biff8899 Ain't that the truth. You don't need to crank up the E-steps too much. I was printing fairly slow with mine and the tube just popped out. Fortunately, I had ordered some extra high grade fittings as a precaution.
How long must the small blunt PTFE tube be I don't see it anywhere
Hi Chep. Do you know of a mast to print that would fasten to the hot end or one of the roller screws so you can zip tie all of the wires to the mast that come out of the top of the hot end. During printing all of those wires are flexing and twisting and pulling. It can't be good for them. Even a metal bracket or mast would help.
Another great video Chuck, thanks!
Thanks.
Excellent work. I just saw your video so I used a different approach on my Ender 5 since I had not seen your recommendation.
I have replaced the Bowden tube with Capricorn and also replace the original Creality coupler with a coupler that use metal components instead of plastic to lock in the tube. Then I put the new coupler into the top of the hot end and after it was tight I backed it out about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Then I put the new tube into the coupler and push it down as far as it will go. Now, remember the coupler is backed out just a bit. Now I tighten the couple which pushes the tube down a bit and also helps lock in into the coupler.
Yes, I’ve done that as well and it works great. Another option is to also loosen the nozzle a turn. Then tighten after the PTFE is in place.
That is really great idea
I find it pretty hilarious that at first, you must have a 3d printer, then shortly thereafter...I must have a 3d printer to print parts for my failing 3d printer...lovely
Thanks for your dedication , you sure saved 3d printing for me, all I have had is problem after problem with my ender 3, I would have pitched the unit if I hadn't found your channel, consider this as an appreciation comment, and a sub, THX bro!!
That's why you have 2 3d printers. That way you always have a printer to fix your printer.
Excellent work, this solves a bunch of issues, and makes access to the PTFE tube easier when using something like a Petsfang Bullseye. Just one note though - while Capricorn tubing is very nice, it's still PTFE, and does not allow for higher than normal temperatures. The marketing is a little "vague" around this...
What is normal? Capricorn XS states 340° C melting point specs.
@@FilamentFriday It also states it's 'mostly' safe at 210c, 'ok' at 225c and 'maybe' safe at 275c, which they're honest about...but not exactly clear. PTFE off-gasses well below it's melting point, and while some dodgy PTFE tubes 'could' perform worse than standard in terms of off-gassing, Capricorn tubes do not perform better than industry standard PTFE.
@@FilamentFriday And while I'm rambling, I'd also argue that comparing melting points of 'as low as 220' against 'up to 340' is super special marketing science...
great job!
Thank you
Chuck your the best!
God damn this helped me a lot. Thanks!
4:00 How long should the PTFE tube be for yours?
Also, can you post the 3d model of that cut away?
Do you use the same length of tube as Luke did for his fix?
Another ides from this is to use a standard pneumatic fitting that doesn't allow the ptfe to go through the fitting. thus doing exactly what you want.
where I am wrong ? The nut hits the base of the mounting wall for the hotend, so I have to disassemble to hotend from the mounting first. Does it work for you like me or what. Thanks
Nice Video compilation for troubleshooting for the ender 3! They helped me allot since i got my Ender 3!!! Thanks for that. But if i fix one problem another problem comes up...
What is this green ring at 2:01? A washer? Where do i get it?
All links are in description.
Great Idea! An improvent would be to extend the length (height) of the PTFE capture tube and nut above the design - a longer capture would need less tightness to hold the tube in place. As it is I fear the tube will slip free and probably not enough pressure could be applied by the nut to hold it in place. It wouldn't hurt if the nut was double length or greater.
I don’t understand your idea. My length works fine.
Actually I commented before making your design, and having now done so I realise those comments were erroneous. So apologies for raising a non-issue.
The concern that I had was that the PTFE feeder tube would not be held firmly enough and would slip out of the design. However now that I can see the holding arrangement that would seem to be unlikely.
Good design which I will make use of in the coming days. Well done!!!
Clever solution Chuck. You’ve got me wondering if this same technique could be used on the geeetech A10M/A20M to reduce some of the jamming people are experiencing.
I planned to try it on the A10 but didn’t think about the A10M. Even though they have a metal heat break, if the PTFE isn’t all the way to it, it creates the same type of blockage.
I've been chasing my tail on my Geeetech A10 having some slight extrusion issues and been tweaking away on my Simplify3D profile....where it may be this issue you point out....hmmmm I re-did the esteps since the stock one was only putting out 97 mm when prompted to extrude 100 mm I see it prominently on gap filling in prints.
What profile/machine settings did you use?
I had the same problem with the Ender-3 fan. In my case it failed after it sucked some strand of filament and got tangled. These cheap fans get really hot when stalled and the bushings crap out.
Perfect
Fan is easy to fix, just trip it and clean the shaft, and bore, use some WD 40 on a paper towel for the shaft, and the same on a thin piece of wound up paper on the shaft as well, then place a drop of light oil ( 3 in 1 oil, sewing machine oil or even 0W15 motor oil, not silicone oil) on the bush, assemble and another tiny drop at the rear by the O ring and clip, and close up the back. Fan will run much better, and if you do this on new ones they will last longer as well, because the original lubrication they come with is not really enough to fully soak the bushing.
Even works with ball bearing fans, though there you do not strip, just use a drop of oil and fill the rear, then place some film (or a disposable nitrile glove) to apply pressure to get the extra oil into the bearing, a little more to get to the front bearing and away you go with a quiet long lasting fan.
Yes I used to repair little fans, because they were $2k each, and I could get the bearings for them. Not meant to come apart, but went back together with a drop of superglue to replace the original glue that held them together. They were easy to diagnose, if they did not scream loudly they were faulty.
Great idea, I will use this. I found that I needed more airflow from the cooling fan to enable more retraction when I started printing PETG. The fan I have now is noisy but it works to keep the top of the extruder cool to the touch.
When retraction causes jams the filament is stuck hard in the nozzle as it swelled on the quick push after a retraction jerk. This new coupling trick would make it a lot easier to get that filament out. Now I have to remove the nozzle, to open the coupling (fan shroud in the way)
Could you design a coupling that snapped together, or was much taller to elevate the gripping nut?
Maybe in the future.
Chuck - I am still having problems with my HotEnd that came on the SunLu S8. I have taken it apart a number of times to clean out jams. The hot block on this is a little different than the other Hotends .. if y ou could take a look at yours (I bought mine after you did a demo ) and you can see that you can not push the Bowan tube all the way to the tip ... it has a separate piece that can only go in from the bottom..??? Any help would be appreciated..>!!
Loosen the coupler by 1/2 turns, push bowden tube in as far it will go, tighten coupling. Push/pull on the tube to check there's no play at all. Job done. Nice video, thank you.
Muuuuy bueno!!! Saludos desde Argentina.