Fixing a Filament Flow Problem on CR-10 mini, CR-10 or Creality Ender 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2018
- Chuck shows you how to fix filament flow problems on a CR-10, CR-10 Mini and Creality Ender 3. He describes the issue and this shows you the steps he took to get his printer work excellent once again. Filament was not flowing properly and leaving gaps in layers. The prints looked awful until he fixed the problem. This may be a common issue. Watch and see if it helps you fix your 3D Printer.
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I've been beating my brains because of this problem with my Ender 3. I was so confused and discouraged with printing. I replaced the nozzle and everything was fine, but it started stringing, even on large prints. It was driving me crazy! Thank you so much for sharing this solution because you've saved me from so much aggravation!
As another quick tip on this issue. If you mark the Boden tube where it comes out of the hot end you can see if the tube gets pushed up while printing.
Nice list of things that were not the cause :)
I had this problem and traced it to the screw that holds the tension arm onto the extruder being too tight. It's the screw in the top of the extruder, right next to the Z leadscrew, around which that sprung arm pivots. With it too tight, the tension arm binds a little and the spring can't apply the proper force to the filament, so it silently slips a little, and you get occasional but gross under-extrusion.
Backed it off a 1/4 turn and it prints perfectly now.
This problem was driving me crazy! Thanks for the video! I had no idea why it was such an effort to change filament and why my layers were not bonding. It was a bad Bowden tube and a coupler that was letting the tube slip away from the nozzle. Just ordered new tubing, couplers and nozzles. Thanks!
Thanks Chuck! Wish I saw this before going through the troubleshooting myself :P I think they must have had a bad batch of couplers for some of the Ender 3's.
As Ben said below, "Thank you! A thousand times thank you!" Great tip Chep, I have now to check if this gap is present on my CR-10S or no. I really appreciate your videos, you help us to get success with our 3D printings.
I think you may of just saved my day with this 2 year old video. I swapped out some filament last night, noticed the same exact glob you showed in the video, didn't think too much of it. Woke up to an incomplete print that the machine said was 70% done, so once these parts come in, I'll try and get this fix going. Thank you Chuck!
I had the same issue a while back. Just drove me crazy. I disassembled the whole thing. Now I check it for looseness after each print. Thanks for sharing.
WOW, maybe this could be my issue as well. I've literally disassembled the whole printer to no avail. When I saw your clump I realized I removed one of those but since the issue returned I guessed it wasn't related. Can't wait to try this. Thank you!
Amazing thank you so much. Was going mad with my CR10S. New tube and fittings delivered next day and quick to replace. Now printing like a dream.
I have just been having the same issue with my CR-10. That has helped me to work out what has been plaguing my prints recently. Thanks heaps.
This mirrors my issues exactly. I had assumed my problem was elsewhere and I've gone through everything but replacing the coupler. Those are on order, can't wait to get mine in to get my printer running again!
I have just ordered my first i3 clone 3d printer a Creality Ender 3 and have watched all your Ender 3 videos so hopefully, I will have my printer running to the best of its potential thanks to your videos!
The problem I had last night on my new Ender 3 was that I replaced my tube and coupler with a new better coupler and Capricorn tube but the set screw on the heat brake tube was set so tight that my Capricorn tube could not push down to the top of the nozzle. I was getting clogs and a huge mess of particles up on the extruder teeth up near my PLA spool. I took the whole thing apart last night. Fun. It’s running great now. I sure do appreciate this channel.
You just fixed months and months of frustration and fury! Thanks. The coupling had never ONCE occurred to me as a problem!
Thank you for sharing the process & proposed fix. Exact same symptom after a couple of months. Great video
Great video! I especially appreciate that you show each step of troubleshooting that failed. Thanks!
Thank you for this video, I have been having all kinds of skipping and stringing issues lately and have not been able to figure it out, it wasnt until you showed the pulled out filament that was difficult to pull out and had the glob at the end that I realized I might just have the same problem as shown in your vid. I have ordered the parts you recommend and hopefully it solves my issue so I can get back to printing!
Man, you saved me! I had my printer stopped because of this issue for months.. Im so glad I found this video!
Thank you for this. I found your video via Maker's Muse and I'm taking this advice as a preventative for my new Ender 3. Great stuff!
Thank you Chuck! I had just replaced my nozzle and tubing and continued to have exactly the same problems you described.
I keep a short length if ptfe tube on hand for extrusion issues/partial blockages. My cleanout routine includes removing the nozzle & bowden tube from hotend & using the length of tube to make top through bottom passes through the hot end til no residue appears. Double check the bowden tube end for trash or deterioration & trim if needed. Reassemble & get back to printing. This practice has become a real time saver by covering all the bases for hotend related issues.
THANK YOU! My Ender 3 Pro recently had issues with gaps and all I had to do was move the tube all the way down toward the nozzle. Excellent video and it really helped me.
Hey, found this video today after searching forums and everything else and it has saved me from major despair with my printer that has been plaguing me for a week out of nowhere. So, thank so so much!
Glad it helped.
Thanks, for detective work. Cannot know it all with 3D printing. I glad we have good resources to help us fix our 3D printing problems. Keep up the great reviews.
Thankyou Chuck! You provide excellent information! I learned a lot from you in this short video! I spent way more time this last weekend trying to de-bug our Ender3, and still have issues. I will try out your suggestions tomorrow!
Excellent video- extremely clear and well presented - so much better than so many of the other gash videos on the Tube. Really professional videos and a joy to watch
Just did the fix on my Ender 2 and holy Cow the print quality improved. Before i would get a lot of horizontal lines due to inconsistencies in the flow and now its just dead straight. Thank you so much :D
I love when a vid is helpful and not just advs. thank for sharing your experiences.
Great vid, Chuck! To add my 2 cts: I found that a proper cleaning of the hot end requires the fan shroud to be turned away from the finned cooling section, allowing it to heat up so that any filament residue stuck to it can be removed. I did not do so initially, being scared of damaging the wiring whilst bending. This resulted in the tube 'bottoming out' on a filament blob (and me watching a million vids and trying any remotely plausible remedy).
Thanks for the video Chuck, you helped my out in figuring my clicking/feeding filament problem.
Once again your videos made fixing my Ender 3 Pro a breeze. My coupling was fine but I had a hole in the capricorn tubing. A little snip and everything is working perfect again. Thanks once again :)
Finally someone who made this video, I have spent over 7 hours to find out what’s going on about the extrusion. Thank you chuck so much!
Dude, I've joined the 3D printing club a few weeks ago and info like this is really helpful. Your videos remind me a lot about "Ask This Old House", and I mean that in a good way.
Thanks. That style was the original inspiration for the channel so apparently it worked.
Thanks for the info CHEP! i literally went through the same exact process as you. The only thing that might have differered for me is that my extruder starter to click after i swapped out my bowden tube and nozzle.
I just ordered a replacement coupling as I think you're correct. I hope this works!
Very useful video, saved me time and uncertainty, lovely and clear descriptions, thanks Chuck!
Before Chuck I was lost in darkness, after chuck I saw the light. Thanks once again you are the Efin 3d champion of the world
You were absolutely right, I watch the video ran to my CR10S, and realized the issues i was seeing were because i never pushed the capricorn tubing down to meet the new nozzle, Doh! Thanks Chuck
Thanks for the excellent troubleshooting tips. It's amazing so many things can go wrong along the filament path.
this helped my problem so much I was constantly cleaning out my hot end because I didn't know that the tubing was supposed to press all the way up on to the nozzle
This was a great video. I was noticing the same thing in my prints. Definitely giving you a follow. Thanks for this.
Thanks for solving one of my biggest problems of CR 10S5.
I had similar problems on my cr10. It was a real head scratcher to what was going on. I gave the printer a birthday and it has been sweet ever since. Now I have some spares.
I love learning from other people's experience. Thank you.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU, omg i was so racking my brain i am very new and i was not getting good prints at all, like you showed the fill was just lousy, i thought i had pushed the tube all the way in but nope and now my ender 3 pro is now behaving how it should i think. thank you again for this video.
Thanks so much! I pulled my hair out for weeks trying to figure out the problem. Also, saw your booth at makersfaire, great job!
Oh man I would never think to look there. Thanks for sharing!
Those couplers were the bane of my existence with my prior printer, particularly since it was the type where the tube doesn't go all the way through ("all metal" hot end). Occasionally, one of the stainless steel teeth (or two, or more) would break off and go into the nozzle.
I tell you, it is a PAIN trying to get stuff out of a nozzle clogged by those teeth.
Good vid!
huge thumbs up for this video. Had the exact same problem on my Tevo Tornado, it took me 6 weeks to finally solve it
ty. realy helped me a lot. i found that best way to put nozzel in is to turn 1 turn back when you are all the way in. and then after you put PTFE turn the nozzel all the way in. i'm on 800m of PLA and it's working with no problems.
Thank you Chep I had to change both at my cr10-S, great tip!
Great video. I've ordered and waiting the delivery of an Ender 3 pro. You're not the first person to mention the bad locking coupling so I think I'll order replacements right now and use them instead of the supplied set
Thank you so much, I've been struggling to find a solution to this!
i learned a lot even i dont have a printer now, thank u ! If anyone still don't understand, i suggest watch installation of nozzle in CREALITY
New to the channel, this video greatly helped and are exactly all the steps I took to trouble shoot my 3d printer which made it so ironic but much more worthwhile, really enjoying the videos 🙏
Hi Chuck, thank you for sharing valuable time and knowledge. Greatly appreciated keep well!
Thank you, and same problem here, hope it will fix the printing problem.
But I already found a melted tube inside the push-in fitting / hot end
This was exactly my problem. Thank you for solving it!
Thank your for the advice !
It will help me in the futur
Good Tip, I wasn't sure what the symptoms of a bad Boden tube or coupling would be but now I know what to expect.
Shortly after MRRF I ordered Capricorn tubing and pass through connectors from Amazon so it looks like I'm prepared for when my CR-10 has the same or similar problem.
Thanks
Thanks Chuck. Great to see even the experts get stumped for a little while before working up a solution. I'll keep that one in the "Vault" for future reference. Cheers, JAYTEE
Thank you so much for this video, this problem was driving me crazy with my cr-10
Good info! This issue has been plaguing me for a week now following a jam, I thought it was a settings issue but I am pretty confident that - based on some work I had to do following a previous clog - that my current "sparseness" issue is due to something like this. Wish you'd put this video out a week ago; it would have saved me a lot of time...time that I still need to spend to actually fix my problem! :-/
Thanks, found my issue.
The CR-10 glass bed was warped (new). So I bought the glass tiles from Lowe's, and I took my hardened steel nozzle off and reinstalled a brass nozzle.
Great tipp! Never even thought of that. Thanks for the video!
wow OK i thought it was a setting problem on my part but i couldn't figure out why i had stringing and under extrusion so this must be it ill check this out, thanks for the tip.
Thank you for the video, this was very helpful!
Great tip Chuck, thanks for sharing.
OMG, I LOVE YOU!!!! This solved ALL MY ISSUES! Literally have a brand new printer again!
Awesome Chuck! My cr10 just started doing this after 2 years, gonna try that
saved me a lot of time!
Not enough good videos on the CR-10 Mini - Thank you!
Been having this precise issue and thank you so much for posting this! It's been driving me insane replacing everything except, typically, the wretched coupler! It seemed so impossible to track down that it really disheartened me and was causing my Ender 3 to start gathering dust. Thank you for solving this dilemma!
Glad I could help.
Fantastic video! New to 3D Printing. I just bought this printer and before I assemble it I will get these parts
Thank you so much for sharing! This helped so much!
Had the same issue after a while and had a suspicion it could be that. Thanks for the video, now I know.
Oh, thank you! Can't believe I didn't see this problem. Was about to buy a new hot end!Thanks for the vid!
I was just about to replace the hotend when I saw this video, you saved me, thank you.
Nice troubleshooting. I had a similar problem recently (print that printed successfully a few months ago was now printing poorly) and the problem turned out to be that my filament had absorbed moisture. Putting the roll in the toaster at 50C (122F) for two hours fixed it.
I've been chasing this gremlin all day. It worked thank you.
Awesome video man. I’m going to be ordering a handful of those couplings. I’m also going to recheck my machines for that. 👍
Wao this is huge. Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. Its absolute essential. May i suggest to create a CR10 troubleshooting video series. So that one can just go it compare issues and get your suggested suggestions.
Really helpful and well explained. Thank you!
Thanks Chuck.....you just help me fix my printer....
You are the best. Thanks for all those great explanations 😀👍
This is Grant from Norway, thanks for the info. I was struggling with this with my Cr-10
Wow, I am honestly so surprised by how that fixed my machine. Thank you!
Thank you so much! That’s what it was for me! I replaced soooo much before watching your video!
Thank you Chuck, It was devastated that the quality of my prints form my first new 3D printer was aweful, (Ender 3). I tried everything and still didn't work. The problem was that it had indeed a clog, which I couldn't find out. With this video you helped me a lot. Thank you.
Glad I could help.
Thanks for this!
I sure hope that is my problem, thanks for your video
Oh thanks man !!
Got that issue too !!
Thanks I'm hitting amazon this weekend and I'll be using your links thanks....
You are a genius! Thankyou so much for this video! This is the solution to the issue I was having. Many thanks.
Me pasa lo mismo, la impresión empieza bien pero después de muchas retracciones comenzaba a tener problemas de atascos y deficiencia en el flujo. Probé desatascando y varias otras cosas, y descubrí que realizando el cambio de filamento se solucionaba por un tiempo pero el problema volvía. Con este video comprendí cuál era el problema original. Gracias Chep por compartir toda esta información. Un saludo desde Argentina.
Thanks for your work on this! It's exactly my problem.
This is a great reminder to check those couplings on the bowden tube setups. Bonus info -if you have a printer with an oddball size coupler like the JGAURORA A3s/A5 series, or if you're just in a pinch because you've run out, there are 3D printable versions on thingiverse. They work pretty good. I put one on my A3S. It was going to be a temporary deal until I got the right size fitting in the mail, but it's been over a month and it's still working, so I'm just going to leave it and see how long it lasts.
I've been going insane trying to fix this same issue. I was ready to punt the printer out the window. I'm going to have to check it tomorrow and hopefully this will be the solution.
I think you have just saved my cr-10s from the bin :PWas getting really frustrated with my printer because the plastic was just not melting @ 205 celcius while it was before. I recognize the piece of filament in the end of the PTFE tube. Will check tonight. Thnx. subscribed
thank you soo much!!! this helped with my cr-10s