Here's an easy way to make a trellis support for berry bushes in the garden. See written instructions here: manabouttools.com/make-raspberry-trellis To support this channel and future content, please click here: www.patreon.com/manabouttools
MAN about TOOLS for anyone else wanting to cut slots in round posts, put all posts on the saw horse and align them at the top, screw a timber to across the posts where you are to cut and use this as the guide for the circular saw to cut to the same depth across all posts in one pass, it will save you a lot of marking and mucking around
A trellis like this makes your raspberry plants happy. Did something like this many years ago, but without the fancy joinery and hardware. Basic design was the same and I just used a spool of 1/8" aluminum wire a neighbour gave me, and wrapped it around the cross pieces in which I had cut little notches top and bottom to hold it in place. I was placing this near another neighbour's fence and, when I was just about done stringing the wire, he stuck his head over the fence and asked in his broad Irish accent and with a twinkle in his eye, "So it's a power company you'd be building then?" Planted an ever bearing variety (can't remember the name) but for as long as I was there we had bountiful harvests (unless the kids got to the berries first).
Man About tools, I have enjoyed all your videos. It is very refreshing to learn from good works by other people. Thank you for sharing all the great information about tools, tool building and garden design.
I'm always a fan of your animations. They help me get a good idea of what you're doing in theory before it actually is made. Very high quality as well! Can't wait to see those little bushes grow :D
I've used outdoor clothesline wire for projects like this one. It works out great. Plus the use of turn-buckles at one end can give you the tension/release that will be required periodically.
I sure hope you're planning to release another video after the raspberry plants get larger to show how well the trellis is working. I would be very interested to see how well it is working. Thanks for the great idea.
I built several rows very similar to these years ago. Neighbor kids thought we had a cemetery! Extreme lack of foresight on my part and this berry patch was placed under a shady oak tree. Built another berry patch (nice and sunny) using 8' t-posts with 36" & 18" lengths of 1/2" rebar welded at the appropriate heights. They do a very fine job of supporting the canes, are as permanent as can be, but most of all they are nearly invisible from a distance.
Woooooow! Thank you so much for this very detailed video! I have been searching for the perfect day video to create a trellis for my kiwi vines and this is the best video thus far!
nice video. I like your eye bolt connection on one end instead of wire vise clamps on both ends as I did with mine. yours is a nice feature in case you want to take wire down in future for easier cleanout with mechanical tools. I wish I had done that. spinning jenny build was also very educational and most useful. Thanks for sharing.
I would like to see if when the moisture in the wood freezes in winter if it splits the concrete around the base of the posts. In the past I saw someone do something similar but the concrete was only close to the surface and not only did it split but it got frost heaves bad enough so both the concrete and posts needed to be removed.
Nice trellis work. Love the detail in your videos. This would also work with your concrete garden boxes for beans, squash and gourds. Thank you for the inspiration.
I use pea gravel to set my posts. We get 50+mph winds and i haven't had a problem. posts are easier to jack up if you need to remove them later. Easier than concrete.
Just came across your videos & wondered where you found those wire vice clamps. Have checked the 2 big box stores that are close to me and can't seem to find anything like what you used. Great videos!
great video as always, especially appreciate that the dimensions are also shown in metric units at the beginning. Did you apply some kind of anti rot treatment for the post parts and braces in the ground?
Thanks! I totally forgot to burn the bottom of the posts. I have a roofing torch I used on the fence posts just for that. Burning creates a natural creosote, I'm told, that will extend the life of the posts. I'm glad you asked about this as I completely missed that step. Cheers, Kent
Thank you for such a great video as well as the written directions I found on your website. The wire vise is genius! Now that you used it for a season, would you do anything differently?
MAN about TOOLS , a couple of years ago I saw a similar product as the wire vice here in New Zealand to put up farm fences and they used a pop riveter to get them tight, probably worth a try.
Is there a reason that you didn’t leave the eye bolts lose while tensioning the wire. If you did, you could have adjusted the tension by tightening or loosening the bolt.
The trellis probably won't fall down, if you skip the end braces, if that's what you mean. But I imagine they will help keep the entire system plumb over the many years of service that I am hoping to achieve. So I opted to include them in my own construction. I personally find that crooked projects hurt my eyes. I guess a matter of personal preference.
Thanks Bob! It's a tough balance for me making these videos. I don't always know how much detail to show, or to move through it quickly and leave stuff out.
Doing knots in high tensile wire is always difficult so don't, just make a twitch (a flat piece of 3/4" wide x 4 " long flat steel with a hole drilled about 3/4" from one end). Twist the wire then hold it with something (a bit of steel or a stick) and put the wire through the twitch and then wind it around the long it of wire. A poor description but it's the basic technique I used to use on miles of farm fencing. Finally why use concrete which is a pain, just put 1/3 of the post in the ground and use a crowbar and tamp in some soil and rocks ; don't over tighten the wire as your plants don't need lots of support or put much pressure on the wire even in high wind.
An 8 foot post for a fence should be set about 4 feet in the ground... I have built 100s of miles of ag fence. Something like this would have work better with 10 footers... The weight of the wire will cause tension on the single post and the brace and will start to lay inward over time. One can add a dead man with an anchor point on the other side to prevent this from happening.
@@bevaroni27 You can get many different size ones, Depending on how long of one you want to build you might opt for a longer post and thicker.. These look like 7 to 8 inch post by 8 foot. They are sized based on the width at the skinniest end. They must be in between the set size they are graded at. meaning that one end might be 7.9 while the other end might be 9 inches.
Those who can not find wire vices or what ever they are called, Just buy extra long eye bolts and tie the wire on on end and then pull thru the other eye bold as tight as you can.. Then tighten up the nuts on each end till tight and cut off excess with a hack saw.. This way is sure to save you some money...
On the concrete .. why not just put the dry mix in the hole and then water the concrete in the hole? It’s a lot easier and gets better distribution of the concrete
Concreting wooden posts in the ground is not a good idea. It pollutes the ground and leaves an obstacle that might have to be removed if you change the use of the site, or even if you need to renew the post. Secondly it encourages the post to rot quicker. Posts usually rot because of fungal decay, and concrete around the post helps to produce optimal conditions with plenty of air and moisture for the fungi to grow in. These conditions are best for fungi at ground level, which is why posts generally rot and break off at that point. Better to point your posts and bang them in, or firm them up tight with a small rammer. They usually last longer and you never have to dig up old concrete out of the ground.
Nice project but you dropped your fence pliers (tool) way too soon. I used to walk fence lines with one tool and few extra staples in my pocket since I was 8 years old. That tool you dropped so fast stretches and wraps wire like a pro; you just need to know how to use it right. I used to pull wire so tight people would think I used a pulley and wrap wire so tight it looked like it was done by machine. I'm not knocking you; mostly old ranchers know these tricks. Check out some of the rancher tricks on TH-cam it's a great tool more people need to learn more techniques for it. Great channel. Great video. I'll be waiting for your next video.
@Tyger I have 100s of miles of new ag fence under my belt and I can almost tell you that your fence you think is tight is almost never the case. I have so many miles of what people thought was good looking fence and installed new fence that you can strum a cord off of. These are mile long fences using 4 rolls per mile per strand and up to 6 strands per fence.
Why didn't you just use a wire vise on the ends only and jus run the wire thru your posts ? They make a tool to loosen the vise holder ! Not a big fan of the sloppy I-bolts !!!
Overkill. You may reformat the garden and have to deal with digging up concrete. If you are going to do overkill I would piggy back off the sucess of the cast cocrete raised bed video and cast your own fence posts.
i have to downvote this video.... just because of one simple thing that sets a really bad example ... the pipe wrench you used instead the right sized wrench for the nuts .,. something that can cause damage to the galvanized layer and make the nut rust actually much faster or greatly increases the risk of exactly that. its always important to use the right tool for the right items to prevent exactly damage and make stuff harder then it needs to be ... i wanted to say and explain why i downvoted and what issue i had with this video ... Anyway keep on doing what you do .. just make sure to use the right tools so i have no critics :P
Here's an easy way to make a trellis support for berry bushes in the garden. See written instructions here: manabouttools.com/make-raspberry-trellis
To support this channel and future content, please click here: www.patreon.com/manabouttools
MAN about TOOLS for anyone else wanting to cut slots in round posts, put all posts on the saw horse and align them at the top, screw a timber to across the posts where you are to cut and use this as the guide for the circular saw to cut to the same depth across all posts in one pass, it will save you a lot of marking and mucking around
A trellis like this makes your raspberry plants happy. Did something like this many years ago, but without the fancy joinery and hardware. Basic design was the same and I just used a spool of 1/8" aluminum wire a neighbour gave me, and wrapped it around the cross pieces in which I had cut little notches top and bottom to hold it in place. I was placing this near another neighbour's fence and, when I was just about done stringing the wire, he stuck his head over the fence and asked in his broad Irish accent and with a twinkle in his eye, "So it's a power company you'd be building then?" Planted an ever bearing variety (can't remember the name) but for as long as I was there we had bountiful harvests (unless the kids got to the berries first).
Man About tools, I have enjoyed all your videos. It is very refreshing to learn from good works by other people. Thank you for sharing all the great information about tools, tool building and garden design.
Making a very similar one, thanks for your help!
Hey, I have been looking at trellis ideas for grape vines - this was PERFECT timing! THANK YOU for posting! Very useful indeed!
I'm always a fan of your animations. They help me get a good idea of what you're doing in theory before it actually is made. Very high quality as well!
Can't wait to see those little bushes grow :D
I've used outdoor clothesline wire for projects like this one. It works out great.
Plus the use of turn-buckles at one end can give you the tension/release that
will be required periodically.
Yes that would work well too.
Good timing as I need to build some blackberry trellises!
I sure hope you're planning to release another video after the raspberry plants get larger to show how well the trellis is working. I would be very interested to see how well it is working. Thanks for the great idea.
I will be next year.
Me too! I would like to see how successful the plants were given that you did not remove the sod between the plants.
I built several rows very similar to these years ago. Neighbor kids thought we had a cemetery! Extreme lack of foresight on my part and this berry patch was placed under a shady oak tree. Built another berry patch (nice and sunny) using 8' t-posts with 36" & 18" lengths of 1/2" rebar welded at the appropriate heights. They do a very fine job of supporting the canes, are as permanent as can be, but most of all they are nearly invisible from a distance.
Woooooow! Thank you so much for this very detailed video! I have been searching for the perfect day video to create a trellis for my kiwi vines and this is the best video thus far!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for shearing sir. You are my inspiration. Regards from Sweden
How do you control the grass growing around the Raspberries? Do you just let it go until the raspberries take over? Or come in after and mulch?
Awesome video man. Have an amazing weekend Andreas 🇸🇪
nice video. I like your eye bolt connection on one end instead of wire vise clamps on both ends as I did with mine. yours is a nice feature in case you want to take wire down in future for easier cleanout with mechanical tools. I wish I had done that. spinning jenny build was also very educational and most useful. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! There's many ways to build these and support the wires. I have a thing for hardware so I chose eye bolts and wire vises. Cheers! Kent
Is there an update on your system? I’d like to see how they’re trained, and they’re probably booming this year ! Thank you for your content.
I would like to see if when the moisture in the wood freezes in winter if it splits the concrete around the base of the posts. In the past I saw someone do something similar but the concrete was only close to the surface and not only did it split but it got frost heaves bad enough so both the concrete and posts needed to be removed.
Nice trellis work. Love the detail in your videos. This would also work with your concrete garden boxes for beans, squash and gourds. Thank you for the inspiration.
Thanks Matt! I appreciate your kind words and support! Kent
I like it. Its a bit overkill for me. I used T-posts and wire with my black raspberry's. Solid. Good luck.
I use pea gravel to set my posts. We get 50+mph winds and i haven't had a problem. posts are easier to jack up if you need to remove them later. Easier than concrete.
New subscriber. This is great, am going to share this!
Just came across your videos & wondered where you found those wire vice clamps. Have checked the 2 big box stores that are close to me and can't seem to find anything like what you used. Great videos!
Check a fence supply or farm supply store. I think I left an amazon link in the description too.
great video as always, especially appreciate that the dimensions are also shown in metric units at the beginning. Did you apply some kind of anti rot treatment for the post parts and braces in the ground?
Thanks! I totally forgot to burn the bottom of the posts. I have a roofing torch I used on the fence posts just for that. Burning creates a natural creosote, I'm told, that will extend the life of the posts. I'm glad you asked about this as I completely missed that step. Cheers, Kent
Thank you for such a great video as well as the written directions I found on your website. The wire vise is genius! Now that you used it for a season, would you do anything differently?
Thanks! I don't think I would change anything. Will do an update after a few more years tho.
@@MANaboutTOOLS do you wish you made your rows 10' apart?
Ever tried to tighten the wires with pop riveter?
I have not.
MAN about TOOLS , a couple of years ago I saw a similar product as the wire vice here in New Zealand to put up farm fences and they used a pop riveter to get them tight, probably worth a try.
Is there a reason that you didn’t leave the eye bolts lose while tensioning the wire. If you did, you could have adjusted the tension by tightening or loosening the bolt.
No. There was no reason I can think of.
Are braces necessary? Can't imagine a lot of load from Raspberries.
You might be able to get away without them. But, they can't hurt.
The trellis probably won't fall down, if you skip the end braces, if that's what you mean. But I imagine they will help keep the entire system plumb over the many years of service that I am hoping to achieve. So I opted to include them in my own construction. I personally find that crooked projects hurt my eyes. I guess a matter of personal preference.
I like the trellis design. I may copy some of the ideas. You explained everything well, but I thought the pace of this video was a little slow.
Thanks Bob! It's a tough balance for me making these videos. I don't always know how much detail to show, or to move through it quickly and leave stuff out.
I mean... it's good work as always, but uh, just how big do you expect your raspberries to get?
Doing knots in high tensile wire is always difficult so don't, just make a twitch (a flat piece of 3/4" wide x 4 " long flat steel with a hole drilled about 3/4" from one end). Twist the wire then hold it with something (a bit of steel or a stick) and put the wire through the twitch and then wind it around the long it of wire. A poor description but it's the basic technique I used to use on miles of farm fencing. Finally why use concrete which is a pain, just put 1/3 of the post in the ground and use a crowbar and tamp in some soil and rocks ; don't over tighten the wire as your plants don't need lots of support or put much pressure on the wire even in high wind.
Richard, your suggestions are good ones. And thanks for taking the time to comment here! There's many ways to do this. Kent
An 8 foot post for a fence should be set about 4 feet in the ground... I have built 100s of miles of ag fence. Something like this would have work better with 10 footers... The weight of the wire will cause tension on the single post and the brace and will start to lay inward over time. One can add a dead man with an anchor point on the other side to prevent this from happening.
no tar before putting the concrete ?
Mac Yavelle No. Didn’t want that in my garden soil. But, I should have torched the bottoms like I did with the fence posts. Just forgot.
I didn’t catch the diameter of the fence posts. I’m assuming they are 8 inch. Is that right?
BTW. I love all your projects.
Thanks! The posts were 8" dia on average
@@bevaroni27 You can get many different size ones, Depending on how long of one you want to build you might opt for a longer post and thicker.. These look like 7 to 8 inch post by 8 foot. They are sized based on the width at the skinniest end. They must be in between the set size they are graded at. meaning that one end might be 7.9 while the other end might be 9 inches.
Those who can not find wire vices or what ever they are called, Just buy extra long eye bolts and tie the wire on on end and then pull thru the other eye bold as tight as you can.. Then tighten up the nuts on each end till tight and cut off excess with a hack saw.. This way is sure to save you some money...
That would work too
"A few weeks later..." Yes, we understand.
On the concrete .. why not just put the dry mix in the hole and then water the concrete in the hole? It’s a lot easier and gets better distribution of the concrete
You can do it that way as well if you like. Thx, Kent
Concreting wooden posts in the ground is not a good idea. It pollutes the ground and leaves an obstacle that might have to be removed if you change the use of the site, or even if you need to renew the post. Secondly it encourages the post to rot quicker. Posts usually rot because of fungal decay, and concrete around the post helps to produce optimal conditions with plenty of air and moisture for the fungi to grow in. These conditions are best for fungi at ground level, which is why posts generally rot and break off at that point.
Better to point your posts and bang them in, or firm them up tight with a small rammer. They usually last longer and you never have to dig up old concrete out of the ground.
Nice project but you dropped your fence pliers (tool) way too soon. I used to walk fence lines with one tool and few extra staples in my pocket since I was 8 years old. That tool you dropped so fast stretches and wraps wire like a pro; you just need to know how to use it right. I used to pull wire so tight people would think I used a pulley and wrap wire so tight it looked like it was done by machine. I'm not knocking you; mostly old ranchers know these tricks. Check out some of the rancher tricks on TH-cam it's a great tool more people need to learn more techniques for it. Great channel. Great video. I'll be waiting for your next video.
Thanks! And yes that's a great tool. I'll look at learning a few more skills with it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Kent
@Tyger I have 100s of miles of new ag fence under my belt and I can almost tell you that your fence you think is tight is almost never the case. I have so many miles of what people thought was good looking fence and installed new fence that you can strum a cord off of. These are mile long fences using 4 rolls per mile per strand and up to 6 strands per fence.
Three years later
I bet you wish you made the rows 10' apart
Why didn't you just use a wire vise on the ends only and jus run the wire thru your posts ? They make a tool to loosen the vise holder ! Not a big fan of the sloppy I-bolts !!!
Nice Job,,But tooo much work for me
Thanks. And, there's easier ways to do this as well.
бляяяя, подумал, на первых минутах, что это виноградники у тебя будут)
Cement isn’t needed. Clay and water would work perfectly to set the posts. The whole build is overkill for this use, if I’m honest.
savedfaves
Depends a lot on your soil, doesn’t it?
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Overkill. You may reformat the garden and have to deal with digging up concrete.
If you are going to do overkill I would piggy back off the sucess of the cast cocrete raised bed video and cast your own fence posts.
Would be pretty good for grapes!
i have to downvote this video.... just because of one simple thing that sets a really bad example ... the pipe wrench you used instead the right sized wrench for the nuts .,. something that can cause damage to the galvanized layer and make the nut rust actually much faster or greatly increases the risk of exactly that.
its always important to use the right tool for the right items to prevent exactly damage and make stuff harder then it needs to be ... i wanted to say and explain why i downvoted and what issue i had with this video ...
Anyway keep on doing what you do .. just make sure to use the right tools so i have no critics :P