"Stock refinishing Part 2- Steaming out dents and using steam to remove the old finish"
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This section teaches you how to steam out dents. Stay tuned for part 3 which will cover sanding and prepping the wood to the refinished as well as the actual refinishing process. (The stock is currently drying)
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"Water and electricity don't mix ..." >proceeds to dip the iron in the water tub
did anyone else notice that he dipped the iron in the water instead of the cloth. lol
LMAO
Yea
I have a Russian capture k98 and I followed this video series to the letter I'm at the point of sanding and I'm so happy with it thus far just wanted to say thank you for putting this info out and helping me learn this craft
I've never used any form of tung oil on a gunstock before, used it for other woodworking projects though with good results. My weapon of choice however is 6-8 coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil over a nice oil based stain, finished with 0000 steel wool to a satin sheen for my stocks. I find that in using a good stain/ oil finish brings out more character in the wood than using tung oil or linseed oil by itself.
this is a great technique i just used the krud kutter (Purchased at home depot) on my mosin nagant and it worked great. i also used a regular steamer which worked nice also. This is a great way to clean off a stock without ruining the wood A+ mate.
Great series of videos! I love working on my own guns and you are a great help. Thank you for your servive to our country!!!
Did you ... did you just dipped the iron into the water ??
Emrah Ekinci I saw that too. But they do a great job of working and talking. Lol
I know persons who swear by the dishwasher system. Pop the stock in your dishwasher and crank 'er up. Removes all dents,grease, grunge, and all unsightly mung. Pull it out when done. Let 'er hang ten for a day or so in the sun. Then begin the sanding process on your squeaky clean rifle stock!!. Remember that you are smarter than the stock is!!.
A note about Formby's tung oil if you've never used it. It's not just plain tung oil, it has some varnish in it. The finished peice will have a dull sheen to it. Nothing like polyurethane but still a light sheen. It closely enough matched the orig finish on the K31 I did and also two older Winchesters of mine that needed re-done. I would not use it on something that originally had a linseed oil or plain tung oil finish like an M1 Garand if original appearance means anything.
This Spanish Mauser stock looks RIDICULOUSLY similar to an M39 Finn Mosin
MY God you guys looked young,
great work! i will try the iron steaming on the next build. thanks for the info!
thanks for your service!
lol chad looks like Vanilla Ice in this video
I wasn't quite sure how to do it then but I did use and iron and wet rag. I got some of the dings raised and it had a lot of them, mostly litte ones. Really I don't mind an old gun having some "character" and this one has enough in that regard. The finish I applied after all the wood work was done was Formby's low gloss tung oil. In the case of the K31 it does a good job of replicating the original wood finish.
May not be the case with all types of wood, though.
Wow, that iron looks handy, no pun intended. The iron I'm using is just a travel model I bought at Kohls I think, got it mainly for the small size.
Very good explanation on how and why. It's probably a shame I didn't know about this method before refinishing the stock on my K31 as I may have sanded down a bit more than I needed to in order to minimize the appearance of all those dings and dents on the buttstock. Thankfully it still looks good.
I plan on using this method of yours with a No.4 Mk I I just picked up that has a dinged-up stock (but excellent metal) BEFORE I sand.
Thanks for the tips!
Good explanation of the process, I have used it in the past, nice to share. Just want to remember to stay away from the cartouches.
This hot water/ steam method does not affect the wood in any manner that would interfere with the bedding. However, with boiling you have to be careful because prolonged exposure (15+ minutes) will cause the wood to swell more than you would like. It'd be enough where some sanding may be needed to fit the stock to the action once again. Although in my experience, I've only had to fit the outside of the stock to buttplates/ reciever tangs/ etc, never had to fit the inner areas after boiling.
I have an old Remmington that was a sniper rifle. No dents but lots of notches. Yes they provide a measured ammount of character.
i love these guys, i wish i could do this all day long
Daaaaamn look at that hair on Chad! Lol
Wow that steam pulled the color right out of it. That's pretty neat.
Great video!! Chad looks like Egon from ghostbusters!!
+Colorado Milsurp Ironically Chad's other hobbies are collecting molds, spores and fungus.
I was just going to say that!! LOL
Didn't know you could do this, very useful for the future.
Great vids and thank you for your service to our country!!!
I've watched your channel for years... So feel obliged to make fun of you here,
Translation for English speaking individuals:
Olll = Oil
Bollling = Boiling
Essentially add the letter "i" where it is typically pronounced :P
omg look how young them boys look !
I found that steaming the entire stock of my M1 will along with raising dents, will remove blotchy type stains that may affect your stain finish. Be sure to use only one ply of toweling for best results. Can't find your blueing video as of yet.
Ron Nov
that was amazing how easy them dents came out guy's
The entire process only took me between 20 - 25 minutes. The water only needs to be heated to boiling in the beginning when the initial cleaning is taking place, it will stay very hot for the duration of this process. By the time you start steaming the dents, the heat will come from the steam and not the water so reheating is not necessary.
Can you fill out the nicks, gouges, and splits with epoxy or wood filler?
zarak yosufzai you could but it probably wouldn't look very good once you re finished it.
Formby's isn't meant specifically for gun stocks it's pretty much for any woodworking project where that kind of finish is desired. I'm basing this on the fact that they sell it at Lowe's and/or Home Depot with the rest of the wood finishing products.
If your sure you want THAT kind of finish it might be worth a try. It takes multiple applications, though, until you reach the desired results.
However, it looks like shit (to me) on a Yugo Mauser stock which is probably carpathian elm.
HTH
@Warbeast911 yes, but its hard to find a big enough pot.
You also have to cook out the water out of the stock before finishing.
Is it possible to steam a dent out without damaging the shellac?
I Have several WWII Era weapons and have refinished many of them and i LEAVE a lot of the marks in there. Battle scars are cool...
can u do this before removing or even without removing the old finish like you did in part 1?
I did something like that with a K31 stock.
Great job young men
Belo trabalho irmão.
Babe? What happened to my iron?
I didn't want that question so I got a $20 Amazon iron lol
what is krud kutter is some kind a cleaner and for what you useing for
NICE WORK.
This popped up in my recommended 12 years late lmao.
PERFECT, very helpful
Great job!
@ grendelt
Blast, I had hoped no one had caught that, haha. I was trying to multitask, sue me, lol.
Nice video, very informative!
Is Chad like 15 in this video??
Christopher Fiorillo nope he's 12
He looks so different.
So your saying it would be better to soak the stock in a pot of boiling water rather than use steam?
Cool, cool. I still like my dents though :) I bought a K31 that had obviously had the dents steamed and it had been sanded and refinished. Whoever did it did a good job. But, it lost its character. It still shoots like a k31 though :)
Quick question. If i do this without doing a full sand/refinish, does this damage the finish/stain on the gun? I would hate to ruin the finish on my K31....
I'd be cautious. I steamed a gouge out of my K11 and it left the stock feeling rough. I think I overdid it.
i am working on a SKS stock in this way right now. Its working out pretty well, but i dont have an iron, only a clothes steamer. it sucks!
Thanks for the video. I did cringe when he dipped the iron in the tub of water though.
Did you really just stick the iron in the tub of water?
what are your thoughts on steaming out the old stain, sanding with 150, 220, 320, initial stain, sand with 400, stain, 500, stain, wet sand 600, stain, wet sand 700 and repeat up to 1000 grit then oil? a friend of mine was taught to do it this way in a gun smithing class..
so steaming is not going to hurt the finish on it?
My question is, in using the hot water/steam method and by using wet cleaners etc., is there any problem or danger of the stock actually warping (to where it would cause a mis-alignment of the barrel to the barrel channel of the stock???
Baby Chad! 2009, wow.
Can you use your dishwasher?
do u have to keep boiling more water or did the water from part one last u the whole process
Hey bro, I'm an Army Vet too and I need everything by the numbers. You went from ironing strait to a stripped stock towards the end of the video. Did you end up using stripper, or did you just go strait into sanding after you ironed it to get the old stain off? i
I have a k31 I wanted to do this on, but I dont want to destroy the collectors value of the gun. What should I do?
Just use linseed oil for steaming its much quicker
whats a good way to remove the finish, when you have "check ingravings"?
Vintage Chad.
Will method take out Cosmoline? I love my K98k but the Cosmoline still comes out after shooting all day.
Does the hot water/steam affect the original bedding of the stock?
wouldn just cooking the stock remove also oil and help it clean?
I have a 1939 German k98 and im looking into cleaning the stock, It has no finish on it its just the raw wood, i just want to clean it and get all the dirt/oil out of it. would the wet rag and iron be able to clean it all up? any suggestions would be great.
Thanks
Wow! Thanks!
how much would you charge for that rifle or to finish one up for a customer?
5:15 I see a Cutlass in the back :D
How hot do you have the iron?
Unless it will touch the wood, it might not work as well as a good ol' iron.
Hi!
I need your help!
Could you help me on a project? I have some repairs to make on an old gun.
Thanks!
Is it okay to use this method on a shellac finished wood
WOULD THIS WORK ON A LACQUER FINNISH STOCK?
Dang chad I’m his early days lol
can this be done on composite wood stocks?
can i do this to my laminated stock mosin nagant?
Noted ;)
what about guitar necks ?? my prs got one on the neck :(((
I have a dry MKIII SMLE. It is like new. It is an Austrailian rebuild. I am considering handrubbing it with tung oil and Johnsons paste wax. Can anyone on here see a reason why I shouldn't?
Does it work with paint on it
Oh hahah nevermind I thought you meant the type of metal until the actually iron showed up.
Woah I just fell through a time rift...
Where the hell is PART: 1?
how do you tell if the gun is stained or not
TheMrT83 most are if it looks darker the typical wood it's probably stained. Also typical they used linseed oil to help protect it from weather. Which in turn also changed the colour a bit.
I have yugo sks with oil finish. I want to remove cosmoline and dents and re oil. will the steamed spots look different with new oil? or should I steam the whole stock for even finish? Any help is much appreciated.
btk btk whole stock even finish
Arrow Eyraud thank you!
от какой винтовки это ложе?
You don't remove just the finish, but everything, including marks when you sanding your sotck.... such barbarians :X
Oh i forget: this is not the "finish" who give this red/brown color to the rifle, but the storage oil (cosmoline) who are used only AFTER the world war, so the Mosin's never had this color at war.
Chad looks like he was in a boy band.
wft dont dip an iron into the water for fuck sake!... anyway nice video guys.
She looks nice
Woodprix has very good and accurate plans.
★★★★★
Your buddy sure says Crap a lot...