At 17:35 in the vid you talk about scratching up the surface to improve the grip of the adhesive. This can also be done with a bunch of shallow drill holes ( ~1/16 ) all in the name of getting a tighter bond between wood and adhesives. Many hardwoods used for rifle stocks have a very "tight" grain so very slow setting adhesives that seep in and deeply penetrate the wood also makes for a good bond. Brsides adhesive grip strength, the compressability, flexibility, and shear properties [ YOUNG'S MODULUS ] of the adhesive is critical. Many ooooold single-shot military muskets/rifles show deep gouges and SERIOUS cracking in the wood because if out of ammunition or in CQB, a soldier would grab their firearm by the barrel front to use it as a wicked hammer/club !
sweet, cant wait. i love seeing how little projects like this turn out. another way to get the wood close to its shape is one of those cheap electric sanders and 36 grit sand paper. just make sure you dont get too deep. i use it on bondo and it cuts it down quick. the 36 grit looks like rocks glued to the paper
That is certainly one method. A better one is to aviod having a corner to fit into at all costs, if possible. A better, quicker, and more appealing method is to bring flat surface to flat surface with no corner to fit. If done correctly no filler would be needed and usually a better grain pattern match. No pins needed either . Been doin' it 30 years so I know a few tricks. Thanks for the vid.
i have this shotgun, but in the savage model, and the stock has a broken piece near the top of the reciever. Ths video is going to help me repair that. Now I just have to figure out how to take the trigger group out of the reciever so i can clean and blue the reciever and barrell. The front trigger guard pin will not budge...i've pounded it, pressed it...just won't budge...can't wait for your next video...
Scoring the wood surface is a good idea to improve the grip of the epoxy. Likewise, a few strokes on each end of each pin with a needle file will form notches that will improve the acraglas grip on the pins.
I love how he's spreading around the goo that's apparently of dubious origin, you spout out the great Sean Connery on Jeopardy voice. Classic. I think I remembered a "that's what she said" joke in the other video.. Another great vid.
You need to use the sawdust from a sander and not from the saw. Sanding dust from wood makes a great filler for epoxy. Thanks for you great videos Iraqveteran8888 :)
@jasongiddensviper478 Yeah yeah, I didn't have my PULL SAW laying around, haha. That's the saw I was talking about as being the "proper tool" for the job. Had to make do with that I had over at Eric's.
Please please use the correct saws. When you are cutting the stock you were using a hacksaw with a fine (metal cutting blade) blade, if you had to use a hacksaw change to a course blade. But you should be using a woodwork saw.
Will accra glass fill tiny delamination in a laminated stock? 700 laminated rifle has thin delamination on either side of front swivel stud. Buttplate has small moisture delam in adjacent wood
@SpiroHrvoje1989 most lumber yards carry an assortment of hardwoods. I would reccomend finding a yard in the local yellow pages and ask about their leftovers(i.e. leftover after cutting stock lumber)
@NaplesSwampRat I prefer to stay away from the power sanders for stock work. I like the feel of a hand tool, more control. Less risk of letting the tool slip and...oops...well, you get the idea.
Hey let's make a video on how to repair a damaged stock but I don't have the proper tools ? Why the hell would you cut into a gun stock with a hacksaw ? Next time be better prepared and have all your tools ready to go .you guys look like a couple of little boys that got into daddy's tools
At 17:35 in the vid you talk about scratching up the surface to improve the grip of the adhesive. This can also be done with a bunch of shallow drill holes ( ~1/16 ) all in the name of getting a tighter bond between wood and adhesives. Many hardwoods used for rifle stocks have a very "tight" grain so very slow setting adhesives that seep in and deeply penetrate the wood also makes for a good bond. Brsides adhesive grip strength, the compressability, flexibility, and shear properties [ YOUNG'S MODULUS ] of the adhesive is critical. Many ooooold single-shot military muskets/rifles show deep gouges and SERIOUS cracking in the wood because if out of ammunition or in CQB, a soldier would grab their firearm by the barrel front to use it as a wicked hammer/club !
sweet, cant wait. i love seeing how little projects like this turn out. another way to get the wood close to its shape is one of those cheap electric sanders and 36 grit sand paper. just make sure you dont get too deep. i use it on bondo and it cuts it down quick. the 36 grit looks like rocks glued to the paper
I like using a dovetail saw for fine cutting like this. helped a lot when I made my own stock.
That is certainly one method.
A better one is to aviod having a corner to fit into at all costs, if possible. A better, quicker, and more appealing method is to bring flat surface to flat surface with no corner to fit. If done correctly no filler would be needed and usually a better grain pattern match. No pins needed either . Been doin' it 30 years so I know a few tricks.
Thanks for the vid.
i have this shotgun, but in the savage model, and the stock has a broken piece near the top of the reciever. Ths video is going to help me repair that. Now I just have to figure out how to take the trigger group out of the reciever so i can clean and blue the reciever and barrell. The front trigger guard pin will not budge...i've pounded it, pressed it...just won't budge...can't wait for your next video...
Scoring the wood surface is a good idea to improve the grip of the epoxy. Likewise, a few strokes on each end of each pin with a needle file will form notches that will improve the acraglas grip on the pins.
Stevens was brought out by Savage arms in the 1920. So it's 100 years old plus. I was wondering about a vice and maybe some files.
I love how he's spreading around the goo that's apparently of dubious origin, you spout out the great Sean Connery on Jeopardy voice. Classic. I think I remembered a "that's what she said" joke in the other video.. Another great vid.
So far as the saw naysayers go: To quote Dale Earnhardt, “You gotta run what you brung.”
it;s a good thing you're not using power tools since you had already emptied that Crown Royal bag on the workbench! j/k thanks for the vid! 5*
All that cutting, drilling, and bonding reminds me of my last dental visit. :-(
Use a vice and teach some safety at the same time and also a little precision as holding by hand is the worst way to do what you are doing.
I watch you all the time. I just got my from IMA and I can not get the breach open, any idears?
Thanks for uploading!!!
You need to use the sawdust from a sander and not from the saw. Sanding dust from wood makes a great filler for epoxy. Thanks for you great videos Iraqveteran8888 :)
@jasongiddensviper478
Yeah yeah, I didn't have my PULL SAW laying around, haha. That's the saw I was talking about as being the "proper tool" for the job. Had to make do with that I had over at Eric's.
Please please use the correct saws. When you are cutting the stock you were using a hacksaw with a fine (metal cutting blade) blade, if you had to use a hacksaw change to a course blade. But you should be using a woodwork saw.
Will accra glass fill tiny delamination in a laminated stock? 700 laminated rifle has thin delamination on either side of front swivel stud. Buttplate has small moisture delam in adjacent wood
Dang, need part 2 now, haha
Did you check the stock for termites first?
good video, I'ld have used wood dowls and cascamite/resinmite, but same method.
"That's what she said" @ 7:43 - nice.
Was there any particular reason that you did not use wood dowels instead of metal pins?
Speaking of a dovetail saw, I would have dovetailed in a complete end piece instead of a patch. Do it with contrasting wood and it would look nice.
hi eric next time you may use wooden nails... try it and believe me they made a solid block with the glue...
@SpiroHrvoje1989 most lumber yards carry an assortment of hardwoods. I would reccomend finding a yard in the local yellow pages and ask about their leftovers(i.e. leftover after cutting stock lumber)
@NaplesSwampRat
I prefer to stay away from the power sanders for stock work. I like the feel of a hand tool, more control. Less risk of letting the tool slip and...oops...well, you get the idea.
@bootsytakes6 . Hey, been there, too. Keep up the good work guys.
I believe you're referring to a hack saw?
@TheYTViolation
Great tip, thank you. I'll definitely have to try that in the future. Seems like I've been working too hard!
you guys need a tenon or dovetail saw for this job.
Ok guys,,,, a vise would help..
wow you need a coping saw or something.. i've done that with a bandsaw but that was to cut down the stock for a girl with a shorter LOP.
Hack saw?
Not too impressed with the choice of a dull hacksaw without a vise. You guys can do better...
lol nice
Antione Garza has stolen tons of your videos.
thats what she said lol
hahahha thats what she said
"You want to be slow and methodical" use a rasp then genious.
Hey let's make a video on how to repair a damaged stock but I don't have the proper tools ? Why the hell would you cut into a gun stock with a hacksaw ? Next time be better prepared and have all your tools ready to go .you guys look like a couple of little boys that got into daddy's tools
I did it too. This is what I used Woodprix designs for
I have been woodworking for 50 plus years and never ever seen someone make such a mess of a project. Please stick to what you know not this. PLEASE.
@bootsytakes6 . Hey, been there, too. Keep up the good work guys.