3D Printed 6-Jaw Lathe Chuck Stop Spider
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
Flashlight: amzn.to/3S68tCH
Edge Technology Chuck Stop Spider: amzn.to/3LlAYIJ
6-Jaw Chuck: amzn.to/4f0Vg7R
Socket Cap Screw Kit: amzn.to/3LrMcva
Pinecil: amzn.to/3xt4GbD
Noga Deburring Tool: amzn.to/3VNnI4q
Hot Air Station: amzn.to/3XELLVS
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
make
diy
chuck parallel
thin part
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PLA - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The crown on the lens of the LED flashlight is to prevent the LED from dying a quick death
from heat when the switched-on lamp is placed on the lens
beat me to it.
This sounds good in theory, but I'm not convinced the convection flow there will be really do that much, especially when glass is an insulator and not a conductor. I think the majority of the heat is sinked through the aluminum body. There's also many lights sold that are just a flat front. They always market these as a "striking bezel". I may setup the FLIR and run the light with it standing up with and without spacers there to test. Who wants to see this?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday please make a video about this, I was also skeptical about these claims.
Always thought they were a safety feature if you put the torch face down you could see it is on, although they are LED they still develop quite a bit of heat! Never thought it was to make them a weapon....
This sounds good in theory, but I'm not convinced the convection flow there will be really do that much, especially when glass is an insulator and not a conductor. I think the majority of the heat is sinked through the aluminum body. There's also many lights sold that are just a flat front. They always market these as a "striking bezel". I may setup the FLIR and run the light with it standing up with and without spacers there to test. Who wants to see this?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I think it doesnt help with the heat, but as clive says it gives you a chance to see that you left it on. If there was a transparent slit in the side or so you could see it too, but as it is if it were flat you wouldnt see that its on. Would probably not be a problem heat wise, but the battery would deplete.
Could also simply help prevent scratching and scuffing the lens when you stand it in its end
@@FunctionalPrintFriday yes please for a short with a IR Cam.
I've seen ones that stated, tactical and they have points, so that is what they are for I guessed
another benefit of the adjustable design is that if the fins didn't stick out as much, you could get parts farther back into the jaws for more security and then adjust the spider out when you need to only grap on a narrow section of the part (just need to adjust the spider accurately when doing so).
About the soldering iron stand, you are right, there are two bearings pressed into the 3d print for heat isolation, they work surprisingly well.
Also there is a small 30x30 12v fan positioned inside the station, next to the bearings which blows air around them, I'll post an image on reddit with details :)
thx! I was going to suggest prying off the bearing shields to cut down on heat transfer even more, but if it doesn't need it, leave em on there. Thank you again for your awesome submission. I'll be in touch.
Sometimes the unfinished product has a neat look😎
crown is for airflow when light is sat lens side down, also if you really want to put it in the lathe why not just leave the crown ring on the flashlight and chuck the whole thing up handle first and face it off?
the light has a very slight taper to the body
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Make sense ,just a thought I had, as always another great video, I appreciate you content.
@@erichoyt1094 thx, it was the right thought to have, they just annoyingly added a few degrees of taper to it as the body rocks in there. Almost makes me wonder if it was even on purpose or if their tailstock support in the turning center was off a bit.
Collapsible sleeve
interesting, I like that
In a pinch you could probably print some.
Imagine a PETG or similar tube around 6” long with a .125 wall thickness.
Looking at the end of the tube resembles the letter “C”.
Chuck up the sleeve and true the ends in the lathe.
Make a full set for your size requirement range.
Spring steel would be better but you could print these at home.
Cheers.@@FunctionalPrintFriday
can you turn printed ABS? I thought if your print bed wasn't as square maybe you could just put it in and turn it flat with one pass.
or make the peg oversized, then clamp the spider reversed so the peg is sticking out and then turn the peg to size so it's perfectly rectangular to the face of the chuck
Seriously, can you read my mind? I have this issue constantly but for now have just gotten around putting in the effort.
Possibly stupid question, but would it be possible to use the lathe to true up the spider?
I was thinking that same thing. True up the front side then when that's flat, flip it around and true up the back.
@@AIKineticNRG I can definitely true one side up by shimming it off the chuck body, but the fin extensions would need to be longer to allow me to pull it forward to true the other side. I may give it a try.
LMAO man... SMH "fighting off a wild animal with a flashlight" pretty sure the striking bezel points are for defending against a way more dangerous hominid I.E someone walking at night in any one of the crime ridden cities in the US and finding themselves being mugged etc. Used to cause soft tissue damage without damaging the lens O_o
Anyways thx for the laugh and for the weekly content!
when I saw you put the aluminum puck on the adjustable version, my first thought was that it might be good to have a recess where all the "fins" meet in the middle, maybe 10-15 mm at least, in cas the middle of the part that you are turning isn`t perfectlyu faced, or if you need to drill trough. otherwise, good work as usual
GREAT point, and you're right, the first thin part I need to drill through I'll be re-printing with that revision
Enjoyed the video! Nice work!
What lathe do you have?
With the length you have behind the six flanges, you could mount the spider in the chuck and true both flange faces in a single setup. Also the flange face nearest the chuck only needs to contact the chuck face at the outer 10mm.
Great point on the contact points at the back. I'll neck it down if I print another
Another great video. Thank you for providing the STL files. I have printed several items for use in the shop. One of my favorites is the camera mount for the Neptune printer. Is it too much to ask to include the SKP file for those of us using Sketchup. If not, no worries. Greatly appreciated the weekly videos.
why didn't you just 3d print a new lens cap? anyway good video
Why not turn your printed spider in the lathe to make it true?
Is your lathe a PM and if so what do you think of it?
Why not grip it with just a little bit of stick out and face the 3d print? I've turned PLA before and it's been ok.
What cap screw assortment kit is that? Thanks
I just added the link to the video description
Hey, if you wanted a tight fit, but be sure the screws are straight, you could use a pre-cutter, then thread in the screws. Not really necessary here, just an idea. 😊
thx, I didn't even know such a thing existed.
Why not just chuck up the entire torch?
slightly tapered
Pushing the part with the tailstock likely would have given you the same result.
In line with others suggestions I'd have assumed the prongs are so you can stand it up on it's lens and not have the it get scratched by what you place it on, although if that was the intention I think it should have 3 prongs instead of 4, so the comments saying it's to prevent the lens overheating are probably more correct.
This is why I don't buy flashlights. Every single time I spend hours designing new tools to improve other tools. 😁
lol
I think the fins on the lens ring are a styling element from camera lens hoods/shards. Those are to block light coming in from angles and washing out the image. On a flashlight they might reduce the light visible from off angles.
Just forget all that, chuck the whole flashlight! 5 min job...
Are those teeth not to protect the lens from damage?
Besides cooling maybe they're there for taser metal flanges! My two flashlight lasers have them!! It's better to taser first before shooting! LOL!