Just getting a 2011 next week. 102k miles, came from dry West Texas, 2wd, supercab, oil changed every 5000 miles, 10,000 bucks. I’m feeling pretty good about it. The only thing that would’ve been better is a manual and a canopy! I camped out on craigslist for the last couple months looking all over the western US for 2008-20 11/3 GEN rangers, and it finally happened for me. Beautiful red color, just a few tiny dings and dents that I’ll take care of. Now I’m learning everything I need to know, the bad and the good, and some mods, and hope to have this thing for a decade and a couple hundred thousand miles (at least). So don’t give up!
When I bought my Ranger it had terrible road noise the tires were cheap eco tires. So I went up from 245/70/16 to 265/70/16 Cooper Discoveries and it went silent. I got 17 MPG hwy with the 4.0 v6 and about 12 mpg in town. One of the best trucks I ever owned.
I also run 265/70/16 Discount tire Pathfinders ! Pretty quiet tire but ride a little harsher than the Yokohama a/t’s 111,000 miles 2001 . Starting to break more with a fuel pump and radiator this year . But it’s 20 years old !
I just bought mine 6 weeks ago, 09 Ranger 2.3 5 speed manual. I must say gas is decent but the driver window shakes and body rattles when driving through rough roads, but definitely starting to fall in love with it
The only issues I share with you are the rattling of the shifter and the crackling/hissing of the vents when turning the heat or A/C off. I've owned three Rangers, my first was a rusty 2000 that I inherited from my late grandfather, then my daily driven 2005, and a 1999 is my newest and has taken the position as my trail truck. All three have the 4.0L V6 and the '99 and '00 are autos. I sold the 2000 earlier this year to a close friend so he could have a truck to ride the trails around Michigan with. I just wish the US and Canada were lucky enough to get the crew cab Rangers like the rest of the world.
x2. Oldschool trick. Make sure to have good automotive glass cleaner in your truck until the lube is all absorbed and doesn't streak. You could try it on your ebrake lever and it might fix that problem too. Silicone lube is awesome for specific uses. You can use it to refresh your wiper blades and get another couple months out of them. Cheers!
Yes. All older cars/trucks had lots of silicone lubrican (clear kind) in the track of the windows. My 1st (manual) window bracket replacement (on a 1981 Rx7, my high school car) was a messy one. But easy and lots of fun. I would NEVER install a window bracket/track without putting the same lubricant. It also revents rust. If the lubrican doesn't work, adjust the sliding guide. I'm not sure about a Ranger, but a Honda Civic has such bolts at the lower part of either side of the door. They can move over time. My Civic window went totally sideways and got off track...so I learned about this while on the go. Simply took the door panel off to see what the problem was and found that the guide closest to the door hinge had slightly moved...enough so that the window slid off the track. Super simple fix. But the window needs to be held or all the way down when doing this. And you MUST test it before putting everything back together. Too tight and the window won't roll down. Too loose and the window will come off the guide track or become shaky.
We own a 11 Ranger XLT super cab 4X4 with a 4.0 V6 and auto transmission. I was getting 19mpg on the highway until I added a K&N intake and a 3” FlowMaster exhaust. I now consistently get 23-25 mpg on the highway with the cruise set on 75mph. My truck has 3.55 rear differential. Do these 2 mods and you’ll notice increases in your hp, torque and mpg.
@@6speedfletch Yeah, no kidding. I too was impressed and surprised. I knew I’d get better mpg, but I never thought I’d get 4mpg more. I have gotten as much as 25mpg since the mods, but I did have a tail wind. Since I’ve done these 2 mods to my Ranger I’ve had the opportunity to race 2 Chevy’s. One was a pickup and the other was a Tahoe. I would assume they had the 5.3L V8. The Silverado was a piece of cake. The Tahoe gave me a run. The Tahoe and I were running neck and neck, but when we hit 105mph the governor kicked in on the Tahoe and my Ford walked away. Win , Loose or draw, I always give my competition a Thumbs Up. Sadly the guys who loose either flip you off or don’t look at you. Sore losers. Even when I get my butt whooped, I always give the guy a thumbs up. The impromptu race is about fun.
22 MPG combined is really good. I never get over 20 MPG when not on the highway. Love the standard transmission. Would have gotten that if could have found one as good as my 2011.
I guess it’s a gas guzzler compared to a civic. Compared to the v8s of the same era, it’s saves more gas, but the difference wouldn’t be huge in highway situations, stop and go would be big. I believe in mixed driving it’s like 5+mpg.
I have an '03 EDGE SuperCab w/182k getting 22-24 mpg which is great. This is my "Get-Around" aka Spare truck and @ 6'7" 315# I enjoy driving it. As for your hate list, I'm sure you know most of those are quick fixes. I've replaced a switch or 2 with replacements coming from eBay. Thanks for sharing 🤙
I absolutely love my 2008 2.3L lacks power but I get about 26 MPG combined.. They are perfect for what they are, Economical small truck, but they aren’t perfect either..
What I did for the window shake was take off the door panel to access the window mechanism and put some grease on the guider. Not saying it works but it did for me.🚶♂️
Your gas mileage surprised me. I had a 1989 with the 4.0 V6/5 spd that consistently got 26 combined mpg and only dropped to 24 while pulling a 1200 pound pop-up camper cross country. I would think that the mileage would have gotten better on newer ones. I've had 2 Rangers since that one and I have noticed that the quality of the the 89 was a lot better than the other, later years, a 93 (4.0) and a 2001 (2.3), the 93 being the worst (OK, it sucked). The 89 didn't have any of those issues you mentioned, even after 114K miles. I honestly wish I still had it. The 2001 (a "Resurrection" Project) is a 4 banger/5 spd and it gets 22 mpg around town (a whole lot better than the 12-13 mpg that my Navigator gets in town). I haven't completed it yet but it's already become my favorite run-around-town ride. Although I was originally planning to sell it when finished, it's just too fun to drive. (And that sort of a thing is tough to explain to the wife.)
I have a 96 Ranger- 4 banger- 5 sp. And it is a great truck with 99.000 on it - everything works on it and it runs very good - Ford did a good job with the Rangers Thank You
@@ronaldlehmann6935 Cool. You have a good one and also have the advantage of an OBDII port with a 96, which will help when/if you have anything squirrelly happen and you need to track it down. Especially when the vacuum lines start to break down with age (It's a 25 year old truck, after all). So many people immediately go to "Plugs, wires, coil, IAC, MAP Sensor, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, then despair" and don't think about a small issue like the vacuum line leaks causing misfires and lean codes before firing the "Parts Cannon". Take care of it and that truck will last you for a good long while. ;-)
Wtf! No way you guys are getting that gas mileage. In my 2001 4.0 4x4 manual I’m getting 13 mpg combined! Obviously that’s not normal. Now I feel like there’s something wrong with my ranger
@@Nikkk6969 Something isn't normal. I get 13 -14 around town in my Navigator with the 5.4L Triton. That's 3 tons of very powerful fun compared to the relatively light Ranger. Of course, a 1989 4.0 is a bit different than the 2001, and driving habits have a LOT to do with fuel mileage, as well as wheel bearing adjustments, correct and maintained fluids in the Engine, Tranny, Transfer Case & differential, Running A/C or not, etc. Also, just having the 4X4 hurts fuel mileage over a RWD, especially when you actually use it. With the Ranger I have now, 2001 with the 2.3L & 5 spd, I started using a ScanGaugeII recently. Before, I was getting 18-22 around town before. My last tank, I hit 26 around town. I haven't tried it on a trip on the highway yet. It's "Supposed" to get 29 on the highway. We'll see. Keeping an eye on the ScanGauge helped me to realize just what sort of things I was doing wrong in my driving habits. I'm hoping that it won't take too long for it to pay for itself. (I used the weekend 20% off and $20 Speed Perks at Advance and got it around $130). Get somebody with some OBDII software (Forscan works great) to look at it and see how things like the O2 sensors, fuel trims and such are running. You can also tell if there are vacuum leaks and other things that matter by looking at the graphs. I hope you find your problem(s) and get it ironed out. Take Care!
I have a 2011 Black 4dr Supercab Sport 4x4 my windows shake too, also even though mine only has 30k miles on it if i let the parking brake off hard on a incline it will actually trip the ABS and stability control modules and throw codes too until i restart it.
2010 Sport w/50k miles and my third Ranger. Agree with all five gripes. Others of notarity is the cam synch. squeak in the 3.0 and weak clutch slave cyl. design in 3.0 and 4.0; they just quit working with no warning or not much. I've learned to use the clutch as little as possible. That is, popping truck into neutral in town and letting out the clutch. As for the interior rattles, DON'T beat your truck up on rough roads and avoid potholes like the plaque! Baby your truck. Too bad they don't make Rangers anymore. (you can keep the new remakes thank you.)
On the dome light I have a 2003 with the three bulb dome light and it's middle bulb is the short tube style and I have had to slightly pinch the clip contacts closer together on my Ranger as well as other cars with the same style. Also check that you door switches are clean too. If the dome light goes off and your door ajar light is also off then they are sticking and the truck thinks the door is closed.
2011 Ford ranger 4.0 Auto 67K KM and I agree with most of this, my park brake doesn’t do that but it just dosent even work. My windows do the exact same thing. My truck doesn’t make noise or rattle like that but probably because it’s low KM. I have an LSD and didn’t even know that you can hold the button down to turn stability off.
2011 sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC owner checking in. I love it but here is my issues. Got some phantom rattle around instrument cluster. I can't pinpoint it but it's driving me fuckin nuts some days. I got a small ass 14 gal tank. I do mostly city driving it sucks gas like a V8. Traction control is awful I hate it so much. I really wanted a fx4 level ii that didn't have this with 4.10 gears and posi set up vs open diff 3.73 Couldn't find one that wasn't hammered on. I dont wanna cut my abs but I agree with you should be able go turn that shit off.
I have a 2008 sport with the FX4 options . My gripes are headlights are not auto , electrical 4x4 switching is a problem on all ford trucks including my Ranger , Super long throw when shifting and last but the most annoying is I stall this truck at least once every time I drive it . I have drove standards all my life including OTR trucks and I have stalled this Ranger more than any truck in my life . It's like the gear is too high for easy starting off . I end up slipping the clutch more than I like . You have to actually concentrate when starting off or you will stall it . Besides the normal wear and tear items it's been a good truck with 145k .
I have 3 black 2003 level 2 fx 4x4 full load rangers out of the 3 My issues are 1. Most annoying is the seat belts that dont retract all the way back when i get out of the truck ,and close the door the damn seat belt gets caught in between the 2 doors.or the anchored lower part twists .all 3 have same problem. 2. Blown fuses ,on the maintenance manual fusebox only lists a few items , but we all know after other items fail as well ,its the ones NOT listed that are the problem, so i have to take out and check every fuse, which i go to #26 !!! . first .wiper\speedo\dome\washer. sometimes just removing and replugging them ,is all it needs ,as the contacts get slightly corroded. 3. Those Damn sensor lights ,never fails either door ajar ,ABS,Park Brake ,Check Engine, low tire ,or fuel door stay lit. And i have to disconnect battery for reset. 4. The dreaded Slip yoke on the driveshaft ,makes you think the truck has major rear end problems ,when just A 13$ tube of blue grease would fix the clunking noise. 5. ANd finally those dumb ass headlights , sliding clips , OMFG even though i know how they install ,with little room and lack of visual ,lining up those holes and clips ,pisses me off especially at night ,can take a half hour or more. The 2 autos are quiet and ride nice at high speeds,but the 1 5spd is very noisy.but i like the manual transfer case ,4x4 low is significantly lower then the automatic. never had shake window ?.1 has a noisy motor though. the 4L is a gas guzzler ,but a hell of a lot better than my old 95 dodge ram. love the fX4 solid reliable truck..
@@6speedfletch Thanks and Your welcome for your video..,Yeah i think we just get used to the ones we forget,But i do repairs on vehicles and these issues are more annoying then problems.Good luck with your ranger. .for a smoother ride on your manual shift ranger ,try using some aftermarket flat soft rubber bushings in between the trans cross member and frame and or mount. to absorb some of the noise ,and vibrations , you would be surprised how much it makes a difference.the trans rubber mount may have gone rock hard or is made harder for manual transmissions. I forgot The fixes lol. That Ranger Station vid where online guys ask if you need help. is completly useless , heads up dont waste your time. 1. youtube users say spray the seat belt with silicone. tried it and works at first , but 1 hour later it goes back to the way it was.still working on a fix ,without taking it apart. 2. copy and print out fuse box diagram, then X mark problem fuses and tape it to cover. 3..door ajar- spray the door locks with WD-40 work it in by opening closing doors several times ,may need a repeat as mine did...fuse 26 keeps blowing no speedo, wipers,dome light etc. the fix is ,move up to the next amp in fuses if it uses a 20 amp , change to a 25 amp..when i added extra lights for back up lights the fuse kept blowing so i put a higher amp fuse in and now it works fine.if it keeps blowing fuse even with higher amp , then you have a short in one of the parts the fuse is connected with. 3a. ABS is usually the sensor dirty or shot on the front hubs or may be wire disconnected. 3b.park brake try WD-40 first ,on the working moving parts, if that doesnt work then add a high tension double end hook spring ..maybe off a rear brake fastener. 3c.check engine light is if 4L engine is idling low or rough and stalls . remove air assembly clean out the throttle body with can of throttle body spray cleaner, until it moves freely ,a faulty or loose fuel cap,the mass airflow sensor is stuck , take it apart and clean it ,make sure it doesnt bind .sometimes removing the negative cable on battery for 10 minutes will reset ,if problem is fixed. 3d. 2007-2011 tire low light Stop the vehicle in a safe place and turn the engine switch off and engage the parking brake. Press and release the brake pedal. Turn the ignition from OFF to ON position three (3) times ending in the on position without starting the engine. If your car has a Smart key button, press once to turn on, then press again to put the vehicle into ACC mode, then press again to turn the vehicle off. Repeat 2 more times, ending in ACC mode. Press the brake pedal again for 2 seconds, then release. Turn the ignition to OFF position (DO NOT remove the key) Turn the ignition from OFF to ON position three (3) times ending in the on position without starting the engine. If the reset mode has been entered successfully, the horn will sound once. Starting from the driver’s side front tire, place the relearn tool against the tire sidewall, near the valve stem. Then press the button to activate the TPMS sensor. Repeat the procedure on the right-front tire, the right rear tire, and the last one left rear tire. A horn chirp confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the left rear tire, training is completed and a message is shown in the information display. Turn ignition to OFF position. Adjust all tires to pressure listed on the tire placard. 3c fuel door light if left open or loose tighten cap close door, may need reset by battery negative removal for 10 min.for reset. 4. Theft light ,usually means the battery or alternater is failing or failed ,and not repairing the problem right away. the low voltage the transponder is receiving has messed with the computers PATS system ,and lost its key code, this causes the engine to not turnover ,driving with faulty battery,to many jump starts or winding down battery until it clicks ,Remember jump starts are safe as long as both vehicles are off before you connect jumpers . fix. .is replace battery or alt , with better quality battery ,and or alternator, place key in ignition turn the key on and off until you here a beep /doors lock if powered,or light quits flashing.leave in off position for 10 min .then remove negative cable on battery for 10 min. PATS system faulty , needs replacement. no dome light connection ,maybe wires in dome light are not tight , if you have no dome light to begin with . 4. the slip yoke is on the driveshaft and connected by a clamp and rubber tube guard, if you have rear end clunking noises upon acceleration and deceleration or a squeaking noise with a manual shift, go to ford and ask for a tube of slip yoke blue grease and a clamp ,take off driveshaft and yoke stuff the whole tube of grease in ,put it all back together .amazing it works. 5.The head lights ..Much needed is a light that is magnetic or adjustable ..when removing lift the clips up about an inch to where the large holes align ,do not remove ,pull out headlight..to reinstall place the two clip bolts in alignment to the outward side , as they reach the holes better, put the 2 in first , then you have room to adjust the last single bolt through the hole. press firmly on light and push down clips.also the adjusters are made of plastic and tend to corrode where they cease solid on the rusted bolt .do not attempt to adjust they will snap , fix....soak in WD-40 for 10 min ,and try to work it free turning the adjuster back and forth .if you break it , no worries just buy a couple of nuts and 2 different size washers ,thread one nut on the bolt almost alll the way on ,then use a small washer,next use a larger washer that covers the hole then place 2 small washers that fit through the hole and a nut with a gap of half inch between washers some hot glue can hold them in place for clip to lock into the half inch gap..done.
I have a 2004 Ranger Edge that I love. Two things I don't love are the fact that I had to have the fuel pump replaced ($744) and I have one or more ball joints clunking that will need attention very soon. The part I hate about it is the truck only has 32,000 miles on it (I bought it new.) Seems those two items should be good for many more miles than that.
For sure. There are common issues with them, which are likely parts Ford cheaped out on. At the end of the day they’re great trucks and the problems that come up aren’t too big of a deal later down the road. Enjoy! And thank you for watching
I have a Ranger XLT 2003 I love it I got offers but I won’t sale my babe But things I hate is 1.Fuel Economy, 2.E brake and 3.Clutch Replacement it’s a little expensive
I have a 99 XLT model - the biggest complaint I have is the door handles and lower door hinges! The handles cant take west Texas heat and the hinge pin retainers wallow out and become loose so the doors hang on the latch! The 5 speed overdrive blows chunks as far as towing or hauling loads! The suspension is soft and can't handle half a ton with passenger's!
@@CL-ty6wp I've added a helper spring on the leafs and air shocks- that allowed it to at least haul an actual half ton without rubbing the fenders! We will see how the axle bearings hold up under the regular loads I put it through! Other than that I really like the truck, handles like a go kart and gets fairly decent gas mileage! A.c. power windows, power steering and five speed overdrive on a 6 cil- it does great! When it's not breaking down! I take good care of her but I am rough on it after all IT is my work truck and I put it to the test!
@@genehasenbuhler2594 enjoy, just bought an 01 3.0 auto stepside with 112k miles. 1 owner. 5,000 out the door. I think I lucked out.. Axle should be good. I know mine has the bigger 8.8 rear with 4:10 gear.
My Ranger gets 13.3 average mpg. I have the 3.0 v6. It also gets 200 miles a tank. 14 gallon tank I'm pretty sure. Gas mileage on the 3.0 is trash. It's a 2003.
My 2001 Ranger 4x4 4.0 gets 16.5 in town and 21 highway if I keep the speed down . 4:10 gears are steep even with 5 speed overdrive auto . 2800 rpm at 75 mph
your truck has issues. They have 19 gal tanks. You need to check your cam syncronizer and make sure your ac compressor isn't stuck engaged. 2 biggest mpg killers on the 3.0 vulcan ranger.
3.0 cam sync, ac compressor engaging nonstop, radio lights dont work, throttle cable slack, top of fender flares faded. Mostly just due to age and not necessarily design.
Thanks for the video. Yeah they're pretty good trucks, and mechanics agree. I've had 4 now, an '86 stx 2wd, a 94 s/c 4x, 07 s/c FX4 level 2, and currently a '11 s/c xlt 2wd. I still own the 94 w 380,xxx on the the clock & 23yrs now. I must say that the earlier units, aside from the awesone German made motors,-til end production), the parts & pieces + assembly were for the most part made in N. America . They're well built w thicker steel, and less road noise. The parts even last longer. I can attest to that w the 94 Also, I've been reluctant to not have the issues in my trucks that you're stating with yours. Except the 07 FX4 was previously owned by a surveyor, whom obviously drove it like a trophy truck to the sites as the interior was a bit rattle trap. The one thing I'm unhappy w current '11 s/c 2wd that has the V6, is that I think Ford was using up the last of the pieces on anything and put a 17gal tank in it, I always thought they put those in 4cyl and or swb trucks. My '11 was made in the last 30 some days of production,- Nov 15 2011 build date, so throwing n whatever was left doesn't surprise me. The Ranger production line ceased Dec 22 2011. Overall they're great trucks w a few Achilles heels. If you've a manual trans, b sure to use modern manual transmission fluid, not the ATF the factory put in there. I've used BG synchro-shift, it's $, but worth it! Also use a 5W30 synthetic blend oil, do not use heavier weight oil!, unless maybe you're towing in 99+ deg temps and conventional is crap unless you strictly change it every 2500 - 3 mi.
@@MrRmeadows yeah it's a bit of a raw deal. So maybe they just ran low on supply occasionally? After owning the previous 2 with the 19.5-20gal tank, it makes this one seem as though it's sucking gas. I've driven 10,xxx on this, and I'm still struggling to get over it after running the other 2 for 25+ yrs combined.
@@robertfrazier7606 I don't know for certain my 2006 was 17 gal. Quick google search thinks it was 19. I really won't notice 2 gal increase from 17. My 2011 goes same distance as my 2006. Google thinks my 2011 has 17 gallon tank. I have owner's manual for the 2011. Says 17 gal short wheel base and 20.3 gal for long wheel base. I don't know which are short and which are long. Suspect extended cab is long wheel base. As bed lengths I think are all the same. Both my Rangers were extended cab. So might be 20 gal. Not much gas.
Have you ever solved the window shaking problem? I just bought me a 2010 Ford Ranger that has this problem and have been trying to figure out how to fix it
I loved my 97 XLT. I hated the automatic transmission. Shit the bed at 137,000 miles. Slow as molasses. Nickeled and dimed me to death. I want another one. 2011 or 2012 (V6) 😍 I won't be getting one because they're to expensive. Then I'll have to repair it. I'll just have to marvel at how great they look when one goes by. I'll be getting the new Toyota Corolla Cross at the beginning of 2022....
Have the same truck as you but mine is automatic! I can strongly relate to you about those 5 things! For future build ideas are you planning on lifting the truck at all and put some bigger tires...
6SpeedFletch prefect I’m looking forward to it! Build on my truck will start soon just need to figure out the entire TH-cam thing first! Have gathered lots of parts over the past months also excited to start creating content and introducing the build!
No need to lift a Ranger or an Explorer. They were designed around 31 inch tires. That's what are on my Ranger and Explorer. Both are stock vehicles. A good set of Mastercraft 31 inch sneakers changes everything!
I understand your point of view on not lifting the ranger and that they were designed for a 31inch tire but with bigger tires it’s easier to go over obstacles and better ground clearance, approach angles, departure angles. Gas mileage may not be as good but let’s be real no ford ranger has good gas mileage either way! But we all each have out opinions on things and point of view!
I've had two Toyota pickups in my lifetime, one bought new in '86 and retired in '09 because of body rust, but was still mechanically sound. In '09 I bought my first Ranger, a used '97 2wd manual trans. All my Toyotas and my Ranger have 4 cylinder engines. Six's are overkill and just get five miles less per gallon, for what? More HP. For what? It's a truck not a race car. But ppl seem obsessed with HP so, SHRUG. My last Toyota was carbed. My current Ranger is fuel injected. Might be why it stalls so easily and I have to down shift from fifth gear to fourth gear when passing other cars on the highway. The Toyota rarely ever stalled and I never had to downshift from fifth to forth to pass anyone. The Ranger is a slug. But it's a dependable slug and IMO roomier inside than my last Toyota was. Best reason to buy a Ranger over a similar Toyota is cost. Rangers are far less cost used. Only other Ranger gripe is the rear springs are mounted to the side of the frame. When the rear shackles broke, the springs shot up and punched holes in the bottom of the bed. On my last Toyota, the springs were mounted under the frame.
05 ford ranger 4.0 6 cylinder had to replace cylinder thread but blew it out again guess I got to replace new cylinder head and hope it works I to love the rangers
This one in particular yes has had many, most notably being the slave cylinder. However I’ve also heard of people who buy a ranger and have 0 issues whatsoever so as with any car or truck, it’s luck on which one you get
@@6speedfletch 2002 Ranger Edge 4WD, 2003 Ranger FX4 Level II, both work fine. Maybe someone has been in it before to replace the power window motor and did not do it correctly?
lmao he complains about noisy it is haha, I have a 2001 3.0 liter 5 speed and I have no upgrade packages. But I also have 32 inch mud terrains so yours sounds like a dream compared to mine lmao.
@@WisconsinRailfan22 After watching for one for over a year, I picked up a 2001 2.3L 5spd extended cab RWD that was headed to the Auction with 189K miles with a fairly decent body and the frame was pretty solid. The engine would barely run, wouldn't idle, all ball joints were shot and the interior was a "Smoker's " disaster. The Engine problems got me a better price. I read the codes and knew it had to be vacuum leaks and there was no knocking from the engine. It also had more oil on it than in it, which got the price down a little bit more. And noticing that the differential had a leak got it down a little bit more. Ended up taking a valve cover gasket for the oil leak, a coil assembly, repairing 8 vacuum leaks (that I chased out with smoke while I had the front suspension and tires removed) and ripping out the carpet and replacing with vinyl (carpet in a truck? Really?) cleaned and deodorized it and a few other things (Plugs, Oil, coolant was good, New Brake pads, inspected the calipers (rebuilt one of them) Changed transmission fluid, inspected clutch parts, New muffler, outer tie rod ends, etc). I now have a dependable, smooth running and great riding little truck that I have a TOTAL of less than $4,000 invested and a few days of labor (spread out over several weeks, of course) and no monthly payments. I had budgeted $5500 for the project, so I have some left over for the next project. (More if I sell it. (Probably not. It's too fun to drive.)) Use Motorcraft parts when you can and don't always go with the cheapest price on parts. Most of those are "Chinesium" or plastic, don't hold up well at all, and almost guarantee that you will be back doing the same repair in the very near future. (Ask me how I know.) Also, making all the repairs before getting in to any "Modding" will keep you from going overbudget. But yeah, if you find one in decent shape and are prepared to find and "Properly" fix all the little neglected problems, and remove all the "Jerry Rigging" that you find in these, they will hold up very well. If you find one that someone has already done all of the work (and has receipts), it would cost a bit more but still much less than a new one or a used larger truck. (It seems that everyone thinks that their truck is worth more than it actually is. Down here we call that "Sentimental Value".) Actually, I would like to find an 89 Ranger, like I used to have. It was much better quality than the newer ones. When I traded it in in 1992, it was sold before I even left the lot. Later! Take care.
I love that! That’s awesome that you fixed it up and drive it now. It’s cool that you seem to do projects on the side like the ranger you got. Thank you for sharing that and best of luck with it!
Just getting a 2011 next week. 102000 miles, came from West Texas, 2wd, supercab, oil changed every 5000 miles, 10,000 bucks. I’m feeling pretty good about it. The only thing that would’ve been better would be a manual and a canopy! Can you tell me a little more about sound dampening-what you did and how you did it? Thanks!
Hey your power windows it's not a ranger thing it's a you thing it's called silicone lubricant. I got to say a lot of your complaints are just fucking maintenance thing take care of your truck
Just getting a 2011 next week. 102k miles, came from dry West Texas, 2wd, supercab, oil changed every 5000 miles, 10,000 bucks. I’m feeling pretty good about it. The only thing that would’ve been better is a manual and a canopy!
I camped out on craigslist for the last couple months looking all over the western US for 2008-20 11/3 GEN rangers, and it finally happened for me. Beautiful red color, just a few tiny dings and dents that I’ll take care of.
Now I’m learning everything I need to know, the bad and the good, and some mods, and hope to have this thing for a decade and a couple hundred thousand miles (at least).
So don’t give up!
When I bought my Ranger it had terrible road noise the tires were cheap eco tires. So I went up from 245/70/16 to 265/70/16 Cooper Discoveries and it went silent. I got 17 MPG hwy with the 4.0 v6 and about 12 mpg in town. One of the best trucks I ever owned.
Nice! Thanks for watching!
I also run 265/70/16 Discount tire Pathfinders ! Pretty quiet tire but ride a little harsher than the Yokohama a/t’s
111,000 miles 2001 . Starting to break more with a fuel pump and radiator this year . But it’s 20 years old !
I’m glad for your experience with your Ranger.
They’re actually very durable pickups
I just bought mine 6 weeks ago, 09 Ranger 2.3 5 speed manual. I must say gas is decent but the driver window shakes and body rattles when driving through rough roads, but definitely starting to fall in love with it
The only issues I share with you are the rattling of the shifter and the crackling/hissing of the vents when turning the heat or A/C off. I've owned three Rangers, my first was a rusty 2000 that I inherited from my late grandfather, then my daily driven 2005, and a 1999 is my newest and has taken the position as my trail truck. All three have the 4.0L V6 and the '99 and '00 are autos. I sold the 2000 earlier this year to a close friend so he could have a truck to ride the trails around Michigan with. I just wish the US and Canada were lucky enough to get the crew cab Rangers like the rest of the world.
Put some silicone lubricant on the window seals / guides. That should help with the window shaking as it goes down
Thank you!
x2. Oldschool trick. Make sure to have good automotive glass cleaner in your truck until the lube is all absorbed and doesn't streak. You could try it on your ebrake lever and it might fix that problem too. Silicone lube is awesome for specific uses. You can use it to refresh your wiper blades and get another couple months out of them. Cheers!
Yes. All older cars/trucks had lots of silicone lubrican (clear kind) in the track of the windows. My 1st (manual) window bracket replacement (on a 1981 Rx7, my high school car) was a messy one. But easy and lots of fun. I would NEVER install a window bracket/track without putting the same lubricant. It also revents rust.
If the lubrican doesn't work, adjust the sliding guide. I'm not sure about a Ranger, but a Honda Civic has such bolts at the lower part of either side of the door. They can move over time. My Civic window went totally sideways and got off track...so I learned about this while on the go. Simply took the door panel off to see what the problem was and found that the guide closest to the door hinge had slightly moved...enough so that the window slid off the track. Super simple fix. But the window needs to be held or all the way down when doing this. And you MUST test it before putting everything back together. Too tight and the window won't roll down. Too loose and the window will come off the guide track or become shaky.
@@calumrife can I use wd-40?
cant relate i have a 2011 5 speed manuel with roll up windows and everything that you were talking about i dont have those issues
Hows the mpg becuase Im thinking of buying one
Not overly bad. I pay about $75 a week on gas with current prices. Which are very high
We own a 11 Ranger XLT super cab 4X4 with a 4.0 V6 and auto transmission.
I was getting 19mpg on the highway until I added a K&N intake and a 3” FlowMaster exhaust.
I now consistently get 23-25 mpg on the highway with the cruise set on 75mph.
My truck has 3.55 rear differential.
Do these 2 mods and you’ll notice increases in your hp, torque and mpg.
Wow no kidding! I’ll keep that in mind and you may see that on a future video!
I maybe do it
@@6speedfletch Yeah, no kidding. I too was impressed and surprised. I knew I’d get better mpg, but I never thought I’d get 4mpg more. I have gotten as much as 25mpg since the mods, but I did have a tail wind.
Since I’ve done these 2 mods to my Ranger I’ve had the opportunity to race 2 Chevy’s. One was a pickup and the other was a Tahoe. I would assume they had the 5.3L V8. The Silverado was a piece of cake. The Tahoe gave me a run.
The Tahoe and I were running neck and neck, but when we hit 105mph the governor kicked in on the Tahoe and my Ford walked away.
Win , Loose or draw, I always give my competition a Thumbs Up. Sadly the guys who loose either flip you off or don’t look at you. Sore losers. Even when I get my butt whooped, I always give the guy a thumbs up. The impromptu race is about fun.
22 MPG combined is really good. I never get over 20 MPG when not on the highway. Love the standard transmission. Would have gotten that if could have found one as good as my 2011.
Lol yeah they’re little guzzlers. Thank you for watching!
I guess it’s a gas guzzler compared to a civic. Compared to the v8s of the same era, it’s saves more gas, but the difference wouldn’t be huge in highway situations, stop and go would be big. I believe in mixed driving it’s like 5+mpg.
for an old truck that's awesome, my 03 Tundra got like 14 mpg :D
I have an '03 EDGE SuperCab w/182k getting 22-24 mpg which is great. This is my "Get-Around" aka Spare truck and @ 6'7" 315# I enjoy driving it. As for your hate list, I'm sure you know most of those are quick fixes. I've replaced a switch or 2 with replacements coming from eBay. Thanks for sharing 🤙
Thanks for watching! That’s great that your Edge has been treating you well
I absolutely love my 2008 2.3L lacks power but I get about 26 MPG combined.. They are perfect for what they are, Economical small truck, but they aren’t perfect either..
What I did for the window shake was take off the door panel to access the window mechanism and put some grease on the guider. Not saying it works but it did for me.🚶♂️
The biggest con with the 4.0 is the mpg.......makes no sense why it's so thirsty lmao.
Lube the windows before its to late.
Your gas mileage surprised me. I had a 1989 with the 4.0 V6/5 spd that consistently got 26 combined mpg and only dropped to 24 while pulling a 1200 pound pop-up camper cross country. I would think that the mileage would have gotten better on newer ones. I've had 2 Rangers since that one and I have noticed that the quality of the the 89 was a lot better than the other, later years, a 93 (4.0) and a 2001 (2.3), the 93 being the worst (OK, it sucked). The 89 didn't have any of those issues you mentioned, even after 114K miles. I honestly wish I still had it.
The 2001 (a "Resurrection" Project) is a 4 banger/5 spd and it gets 22 mpg around town (a whole lot better than the 12-13 mpg that my Navigator gets in town). I haven't completed it yet but it's already become my favorite run-around-town ride. Although I was originally planning to sell it when finished, it's just too fun to drive. (And that sort of a thing is tough to explain to the wife.)
Very cool! They are definitely quite fun to drive, thank you for sharing!
I have a 96 Ranger- 4 banger- 5 sp. And it is a great truck with 99.000 on it - everything works on it and it runs very good - Ford did a good job with the Rangers Thank You
@@ronaldlehmann6935 Cool. You have a good one and also have the advantage of an OBDII port with a 96, which will help when/if you have anything squirrelly happen and you need to track it down. Especially when the vacuum lines start to break down with age (It's a 25 year old truck, after all).
So many people immediately go to "Plugs, wires, coil, IAC, MAP Sensor, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, then despair" and don't think about a small issue like the vacuum line leaks causing misfires and lean codes before firing the "Parts Cannon".
Take care of it and that truck will last you for a good long while. ;-)
Wtf! No way you guys are getting that gas mileage. In my 2001 4.0 4x4 manual I’m getting 13 mpg combined! Obviously that’s not normal. Now I feel like there’s something wrong with my ranger
@@Nikkk6969 Something isn't normal. I get 13 -14 around town in my Navigator with the 5.4L Triton. That's 3 tons of very powerful fun compared to the relatively light Ranger.
Of course, a 1989 4.0 is a bit different than the 2001, and driving habits have a LOT to do with fuel mileage, as well as wheel bearing adjustments, correct and maintained fluids in the Engine, Tranny, Transfer Case & differential, Running A/C or not, etc. Also, just having the 4X4 hurts fuel mileage over a RWD, especially when you actually use it.
With the Ranger I have now, 2001 with the 2.3L & 5 spd, I started using a ScanGaugeII recently. Before, I was getting 18-22 around town before. My last tank, I hit 26 around town. I haven't tried it on a trip on the highway yet. It's "Supposed" to get 29 on the highway. We'll see.
Keeping an eye on the ScanGauge helped me to realize just what sort of things I was doing wrong in my driving habits. I'm hoping that it won't take too long for it to pay for itself. (I used the weekend 20% off and $20 Speed Perks at Advance and got it around $130).
Get somebody with some OBDII software (Forscan works great) to look at it and see how things like the O2 sensors, fuel trims and such are running. You can also tell if there are vacuum leaks and other things that matter by looking at the graphs.
I hope you find your problem(s) and get it ironed out.
Take Care!
The power windows my ranger does it aswell. The passenger side does it all the time but the driver side never jumps
Swap out ur window regulators
I have a 2011 Black 4dr Supercab Sport 4x4 my windows shake too, also even though mine only has 30k miles on it if i let the parking brake off hard on a incline it will actually trip the ABS and stability control modules and throw codes too until i restart it.
You just need to spray silicone . typical maintenance .
2010 Sport w/50k miles and my third Ranger. Agree with all five gripes. Others of notarity is the cam synch. squeak in the 3.0 and weak clutch slave cyl. design in 3.0 and 4.0; they just quit working with no warning or not much. I've learned to use the clutch as little as possible. That is, popping truck into neutral in town and letting out the clutch. As for the interior rattles, DON'T beat your truck up on rough roads and avoid potholes like the plaque! Baby your truck. Too bad they don't make Rangers anymore. (you can keep the new remakes thank you.)
Oh yeah. I just had my slave and master cylinder headache over the last 2 months. Thanks for watching!
On the dome light I have a 2003 with the three bulb dome light and it's middle bulb is the short tube style and I have had to slightly pinch the clip contacts closer together on my Ranger as well as other cars with the same style. Also check that you door switches are clean too. If the dome light goes off and your door ajar light is also off then they are sticking and the truck thinks the door is closed.
Thanks!
What about the exploding thermostat housing? I'm on my third replacement but this time it's getting a metal aftermarket.
It sounds like you just need to do a few minor repairs
2011 Ford ranger 4.0 Auto 67K KM and I agree with most of this, my park brake doesn’t do that but it just dosent even work. My windows do the exact same thing. My truck doesn’t make noise or rattle like that but probably because it’s low KM. I have an LSD and didn’t even know that you can hold the button down to turn stability off.
Nice! That’s a gem with that little KM on it!
I hate my radio
I will not eject any CDs.
I’m stuck with the Stones. Not bad but like to switch CDs.
2011 sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC owner checking in. I love it but here is my issues.
Got some phantom rattle around instrument cluster. I can't pinpoint it but it's driving me fuckin nuts some days.
I got a small ass 14 gal tank.
I do mostly city driving it sucks gas like a V8.
Traction control is awful I hate it so much. I really wanted a fx4 level ii that didn't have this with 4.10 gears and posi set up vs open diff 3.73 Couldn't find one that wasn't hammered on. I dont wanna cut my abs but I agree with you should be able go turn that shit off.
I have a 2008 sport with the FX4 options . My gripes are headlights are not auto , electrical 4x4 switching is a problem on all ford trucks including my Ranger , Super long throw when shifting and last but the most annoying is I stall this truck at least once every time I drive it . I have drove standards all my life including OTR trucks and I have stalled this Ranger more than any truck in my life . It's like the gear is too high for easy starting off . I end up slipping the clutch more than I like . You have to actually concentrate when starting off or you will stall it . Besides the normal wear and tear items it's been a good truck with 145k .
I agree with all of these!
If you're stalling a ford ranger constantly, you don't know how to drive a stick.
I have 3 black 2003 level 2 fx 4x4 full load rangers out of the 3 My issues are
1. Most annoying is the seat belts that dont retract all the way back when i get out of the truck ,and close the door the damn seat belt gets caught in between the 2 doors.or the anchored lower part twists .all 3 have same problem.
2. Blown fuses ,on the maintenance manual fusebox only lists a few items , but we all know after other items fail as well ,its the ones NOT listed that are the problem, so i have to take out and check every fuse, which i go to #26 !!! . first .wiper\speedo\dome\washer. sometimes just removing and replugging them ,is all it needs ,as the contacts get slightly corroded.
3. Those Damn sensor lights ,never fails either door ajar ,ABS,Park Brake ,Check Engine, low tire ,or fuel door stay lit. And i have to disconnect battery for reset.
4. The dreaded Slip yoke on the driveshaft ,makes you think the truck has major rear end problems ,when just A 13$ tube of blue grease would fix the clunking noise.
5. ANd finally those dumb ass headlights , sliding clips , OMFG even though i know how they install ,with little room and lack of visual ,lining up those holes and clips ,pisses me off especially at night ,can take a half hour or more.
The 2 autos are quiet and ride nice at high speeds,but the 1 5spd is very noisy.but i like the manual transfer case ,4x4 low is significantly lower then the automatic.
never had shake window ?.1 has a noisy motor though. the 4L is a gas guzzler ,but a hell of a lot better than my old 95 dodge ram. love the fX4 solid reliable truck..
Those are all very good points to the ranger! Thank you! I can’t believe I forgot some of those
@@6speedfletch Thanks and Your welcome for your video..,Yeah i think we just get used to the ones we forget,But i do repairs on vehicles and these issues are more annoying then problems.Good luck with your ranger.
.for a smoother ride on your manual shift ranger ,try using some aftermarket flat soft rubber bushings in between the trans cross member and frame and or mount. to absorb some of the noise ,and vibrations , you would be surprised how much it makes a difference.the trans rubber mount may have gone rock hard or is made harder for manual transmissions.
I forgot The fixes lol.
That Ranger Station vid where online guys ask if you need help. is completly useless , heads up dont waste your time.
1. youtube users say spray the seat belt with silicone. tried it and works at first , but 1 hour later it goes back to the way it was.still working on a fix ,without taking it apart.
2. copy and print out fuse box diagram, then X mark problem fuses and tape it to cover.
3..door ajar- spray the door locks with WD-40 work it in by opening closing doors several times ,may need a repeat as mine did...fuse 26 keeps blowing no speedo, wipers,dome light etc. the fix is ,move up to the next amp in fuses if it uses a 20 amp , change to a 25 amp..when i added extra lights for back up lights the fuse kept blowing so i put a higher amp fuse in and now it works fine.if it keeps blowing fuse even with higher amp , then you have a short in one of the parts the fuse is connected with.
3a. ABS is usually the sensor dirty or shot on the front hubs or may be wire disconnected.
3b.park brake try WD-40 first ,on the working moving parts, if that doesnt work then add a high tension double end hook spring ..maybe off a rear brake fastener.
3c.check engine light is if 4L engine is idling low or rough and stalls . remove air assembly clean out the throttle body with can of throttle body spray cleaner, until it moves freely ,a faulty or loose fuel cap,the mass airflow sensor is stuck , take it apart and clean it ,make sure it doesnt bind .sometimes removing the negative cable on battery for 10 minutes will reset ,if problem is fixed.
3d. 2007-2011 tire low light
Stop the vehicle in a safe place and turn the engine switch off and engage the parking brake.
Press and release the brake pedal.
Turn the ignition from OFF to ON position three (3) times ending in the on position without starting the engine.
If your car has a Smart key button, press once to turn on, then press again to put the vehicle into ACC mode, then press again to turn the vehicle off. Repeat 2 more times, ending in ACC mode.
Press the brake pedal again for 2 seconds, then release.
Turn the ignition to OFF position (DO NOT remove the key)
Turn the ignition from OFF to ON position three (3) times ending in the on position without starting the engine.
If the reset mode has been entered successfully, the horn will sound once.
Starting from the driver’s side front tire, place the relearn tool against the tire sidewall, near the valve stem. Then press the button to activate the TPMS sensor.
Repeat the procedure on the right-front tire, the right rear tire, and the last one left rear tire.
A horn chirp confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position.
After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the left rear tire, training is completed and a message is shown in the information display. Turn ignition to OFF position. Adjust all tires to pressure listed on the tire placard.
3c fuel door light if left open or loose tighten cap close door, may need reset by battery negative removal for 10 min.for reset.
4. Theft light ,usually means the battery or alternater is failing or failed ,and not repairing the problem right away. the low voltage the transponder is receiving has messed with the computers PATS system ,and lost its key code, this causes the engine to not turnover ,driving with faulty battery,to many jump starts or winding down battery until it clicks ,Remember jump starts are safe as long as both vehicles are off before you connect jumpers .
fix.
.is replace battery or alt , with better quality battery ,and or alternator,
place key in ignition turn the key on and off until you here a beep /doors lock if powered,or light quits flashing.leave in off position for 10 min .then remove negative cable on battery for 10 min. PATS system faulty , needs replacement. no dome light connection ,maybe wires in dome light are not tight , if you have no dome light to begin with .
4. the slip yoke is on the driveshaft and connected by a clamp and rubber tube guard, if you have rear end clunking noises upon acceleration and deceleration or a squeaking noise with a manual shift, go to ford and ask for a tube of slip yoke blue grease and a clamp ,take off driveshaft and yoke stuff the whole tube of grease in ,put it all back together .amazing it works.
5.The head lights ..Much needed is a light that is magnetic or adjustable ..when removing lift the clips up about an inch to where the large holes align ,do not remove ,pull out headlight..to reinstall place the two clip bolts in alignment to the outward side , as they reach the holes better, put the 2 in first , then you have room to adjust the last single bolt through the hole. press firmly on light and push down clips.also the adjusters are made of plastic and tend to corrode where they cease solid on the rusted bolt .do not attempt to adjust they will snap , fix....soak in WD-40 for 10 min ,and try to work it free turning the adjuster back and forth .if you break it , no worries just buy a couple of nuts and 2 different size washers ,thread one nut on the bolt almost alll the way on ,then use a small washer,next use a larger washer that covers the hole then place 2 small washers that fit through the hole and a nut with a gap of half inch between washers some hot glue can hold them in place for clip to lock into the half inch gap..done.
Thank you, very informative!
I have a 2004 Ranger Edge that I love. Two things I don't love are the fact that I had to have the fuel pump replaced ($744) and I have one or more ball joints clunking that will need attention very soon. The part I hate about it is the truck only has 32,000 miles on it (I bought it new.) Seems those two items should be good for many more miles than that.
For sure. There are common issues with them, which are likely parts Ford cheaped out on. At the end of the day they’re great trucks and the problems that come up aren’t too big of a deal later down the road. Enjoy! And thank you for watching
Had my fuel pump replaced at 110,000 miles at ford $1290 . 2001 4.0 auto. Got to get away from ford dealers $$$$$
Keep your tank at least 1/4 full . Pumps get hot when is near empty . So mine lasted 110,000 miles and 20 years
@@fairlane19641 dang. Its prob a 150$ part and can change easy with a hoist or someone to lift bed.
@@fairlane19641 that an cold winters/water in the gas when you keep tank low is a bad idea.
I have a Ranger XLT 2003 I love it I got offers but I won’t sale my babe
But things I hate is 1.Fuel Economy, 2.E brake and 3.Clutch Replacement it’s a little expensive
I test drove an ‘08 Ranger the other day and it had the window shake too.
Ha I think they all do
I have a 99 XLT model - the biggest complaint I have is the door handles and lower door hinges! The handles cant take west Texas heat and the hinge pin retainers wallow out and become loose so the doors hang on the latch! The 5 speed overdrive blows chunks as far as towing or hauling loads! The suspension is soft and can't handle half a ton with passenger's!
22 year old springs will be soft.
@@CL-ty6wp I've added a helper spring on the leafs and air shocks- that allowed it to at least haul an actual half ton without rubbing the fenders! We will see how the axle bearings hold up under the regular loads I put it through! Other than that I really like the truck, handles like a go kart and gets fairly decent gas mileage! A.c. power windows, power steering and five speed overdrive on a 6 cil- it does great! When it's not breaking down! I take good care of her but I am rough on it after all IT is my work truck and I put it to the test!
@@genehasenbuhler2594 enjoy, just bought an 01 3.0 auto stepside with 112k miles. 1 owner. 5,000 out the door. I think I lucked out..
Axle should be good. I know mine has the bigger 8.8 rear with 4:10 gear.
My Ranger gets 13.3 average mpg. I have the 3.0 v6. It also gets 200 miles a tank. 14 gallon tank I'm pretty sure. Gas mileage on the 3.0 is trash. It's a 2003.
Yeah they’re quite thirsty engines for sure!
Xrider04, i guess I was lucky.
My 97 4 cylinder was getting
17 mpg 😂
My 2001 Ranger 4x4 4.0 gets 16.5 in town and 21 highway if I keep the speed down . 4:10 gears are steep even with 5 speed overdrive auto . 2800 rpm at 75 mph
your truck has issues. They have 19 gal tanks. You need to check your cam syncronizer and make sure your ac compressor isn't stuck engaged. 2 biggest mpg killers on the 3.0 vulcan ranger.
@@classic287 your i4 should be mid 20's city , near 30 hwy.
3.0 cam sync, ac compressor engaging nonstop, radio lights dont work, throttle cable slack, top of fender flares faded. Mostly just due to age and not necessarily design.
window shake is kinda funny ngl
Thanks for the video.
Yeah they're pretty good trucks, and mechanics agree. I've had 4 now, an '86 stx 2wd, a 94 s/c 4x, 07 s/c FX4 level 2, and currently a '11 s/c xlt 2wd. I still own the 94 w 380,xxx on the the clock & 23yrs now.
I must say that the earlier units, aside from the awesone German made motors,-til end production), the parts & pieces + assembly were for the most part made in N. America . They're well built w thicker steel, and less road noise. The parts even last longer. I can attest to that w the 94
Also, I've been reluctant to not have the issues in my trucks that you're stating with yours. Except the 07 FX4 was previously owned by a surveyor, whom obviously drove it like a trophy truck to the sites as the interior was a bit rattle trap.
The one thing I'm unhappy w current '11 s/c 2wd that has the V6, is that I think Ford was using up the last of the pieces on anything and put a 17gal tank in it, I always thought they put those in 4cyl and or swb trucks. My '11 was made in the last 30 some days of production,- Nov 15 2011 build date, so throwing n whatever was left doesn't surprise me. The Ranger production line ceased Dec 22 2011.
Overall they're great trucks w a few Achilles heels.
If you've a manual trans, b sure to use modern manual transmission fluid, not the ATF the factory put in there. I've used BG synchro-shift, it's $, but worth it! Also use a 5W30 synthetic blend oil, do not use heavier weight oil!, unless maybe you're towing in 99+ deg temps and conventional is crap unless you strictly change it every 2500 - 3 mi.
Thanks for watching! I agree with ford cheaping out in places but at the end of the day we still love them!
@@6speedfletch 100!
My 2006 4.0 v6 also had a small 17 gal gas tank.
@@MrRmeadows yeah it's a bit of a raw deal. So maybe they just ran low on supply occasionally?
After owning the previous 2 with the 19.5-20gal tank, it makes this one seem as though it's sucking gas.
I've driven 10,xxx on this, and I'm still struggling to get over it after running the other 2 for 25+ yrs combined.
@@robertfrazier7606 I don't know for certain my 2006 was 17 gal. Quick google search thinks it was 19. I really won't notice 2 gal increase from 17. My 2011 goes same distance as my 2006. Google thinks my 2011 has 17 gallon tank. I have owner's manual for the 2011. Says 17 gal short wheel base and 20.3 gal for long wheel base. I don't know which are short and which are long. Suspect extended cab is long wheel base. As bed lengths I think are all the same. Both my Rangers were extended cab. So might be 20 gal. Not much gas.
Have you ever solved the window shaking problem? I just bought me a 2010 Ford Ranger that has this problem and have been trying to figure out how to fix it
No luck with it yet unfortunately. I just suffer with it XD
Swap out ur window regulators and clean the tract
I loved my 97 XLT. I hated the automatic transmission. Shit the
bed at 137,000 miles. Slow as molasses. Nickeled and dimed me to death. I want another one.
2011 or 2012 (V6) 😍 I won't be getting one because they're to expensive. Then I'll have to repair it. I'll just have to marvel at
how great they look when one goes by. I'll be getting the new Toyota Corolla Cross at the beginning of 2022....
Nice! Enjoy the new car!
Other than using lots of gas I have not had any of these problems . I have owned 4 Rangers over the years
Hell yeah, freedom units!
Have the same truck as you but mine is automatic! I can strongly relate to you about those 5 things! For future build ideas are you planning on lifting the truck at all and put some bigger tires...
Awesome! Yeah they’re pretty common. Still great trucks though. And all I can say about the build is... coming soon... it’s going to be pretty sweet!
6SpeedFletch prefect I’m looking forward to it! Build on my truck will start soon just need to figure out the entire TH-cam thing first! Have gathered lots of parts over the past months also excited to start creating content and introducing the build!
Awesome! That good to see, best of luck on it
No need to lift a Ranger or an Explorer. They were designed around 31 inch tires. That's what are on my Ranger and Explorer. Both are stock vehicles. A good set of Mastercraft 31 inch sneakers changes everything!
I understand your point of view on not lifting the ranger and that they were designed for a 31inch tire but with bigger tires it’s easier to go over obstacles and better ground clearance, approach angles, departure angles. Gas mileage may not be as good but let’s be real no ford ranger has good gas mileage either way! But we all each have out opinions on things and point of view!
My 07 fx4 gets way worse mileage but has no traction control which is fun af
Hey, I just noticed that your running lights are not your low beams. How did you make them your signals and corner lights?
I've had two Toyota pickups in my lifetime, one bought new in '86 and retired in '09 because of body rust, but was still mechanically sound. In '09 I bought my first Ranger, a used '97 2wd manual trans. All my Toyotas and my Ranger have 4 cylinder engines. Six's are overkill and just get five miles less per gallon, for what? More HP. For what? It's a truck not a race car. But ppl seem obsessed with HP so, SHRUG. My last Toyota was carbed. My current Ranger is fuel injected. Might be why it stalls so easily and I have to down shift from fifth gear to fourth gear when passing other cars on the highway. The Toyota rarely ever stalled and I never had to downshift from fifth to forth to pass anyone. The Ranger is a slug. But it's a dependable slug and IMO roomier inside than my last Toyota was. Best reason to buy a Ranger over a similar Toyota is cost. Rangers are far less cost used. Only other Ranger gripe is the rear springs are mounted to the side of the frame. When the rear shackles broke, the springs shot up and punched holes in the bottom of the bed. On my last Toyota, the springs were mounted under the frame.
Toyota is definitely a step up in terms of realizability and quality
Guys i have been thinking about geting a ford ranger do you think i should?
I love mine!
i have and love my ford ranger 1989 4x4 std v6 2.9L
I had an '87 w/2.9 auto. Had more torque off the line than my 91 w/3.0, both good trucks tho. Now have 05 edge w/3.0
Where did you get the amber lights on the grill or they came on the grill
I bought them from my local Canadian tire!
05 ford ranger 4.0 6 cylinder had to replace cylinder thread but blew it out again guess I got to replace new cylinder head and hope it works I to love the rangers
They’re great little trucks! Best of luck with yours!
I can live with 20-something miles per gallon. My last v-8 truck was closer to 10 mpg. Not even close.
Cant the window rattle be fixed by lubricating the sliders?
Your ranger is just clapped mine has none of the problems and it’s got 300k miles
Thanks for the miles and gallons lol , thinking of buying a cheap truck like this for my small business. Has it had any major issues
This one in particular yes has had many, most notably being the slave cylinder. However I’ve also heard of people who buy a ranger and have 0 issues whatsoever so as with any car or truck, it’s luck on which one you get
Look at the maverick. Base model 19k, 40 mpg. Tell em i sent you.. lol
You must have some sort of issue that needs to be corrected. My 2002 Ranger and 2003 Ranger do not have that issue.
Which issue?
@@6speedfletch Sorry, the issue with the power windows shaking. Maybe a loose or worn part. Mine work fine.
@nofortunatesonII hmm, I’ve seen forums where people have had the same issue with no fix… odd
@@6speedfletch 2002 Ranger Edge 4WD, 2003 Ranger FX4 Level II, both work fine. Maybe someone has been in it before to replace the power window motor and did not do it correctly?
@nofortunatesonII possibly! I have no idea and frankly doesn’t concern me enough at this point
What about those lights on the grill?
Alpena Position Podz. Mentioned in a few of my videos and have their own exclusive video too.
@@6speedfletch ok,thanks
lmao he complains about noisy it is haha, I have a 2001 3.0 liter 5 speed and I have no upgrade packages. But I also have 32 inch mud terrains so yours sounds like a dream compared to mine lmao.
XD I guess I have a luxurious Ranger then. I’ll be quiet about the noise it makes or lack thereof haha. Thanks for watching!
Just out of curiosity, what mpg are you sure you get out of it? 22 highway and what for city?
I only get combined. Probably around the same. Maybe 18
@@6speedfletch sorry I forgot you look at economy through liters, so you mean 18 mpg or miles per liter? Haha
18l/100 depending on traffic
im from canada too, does it good on snow?
It’s pretty good. Much better with the bigger tires I have now for sure. 4X4 is great!
I own a ranger 2004 the seats are bad on the back and butt when on long hauls great little truck
My 2001 has great seats 64/40 . I can drive all day as long as I pull my wallet from hip pocket !
Get one that was made before 2004 and you won't have such issues. The later Rangers were not well built. My 1999 has none of these problems.
Interesting. The changes between the years are quite strange. Thanks for watching!
Yeah same my 2000 is great and runs smooth
Will they still be holding up well with all that age? I'm interested in buying one of these. Don't want to get a full size truck
@@WisconsinRailfan22 After watching for one for over a year, I picked up a 2001 2.3L 5spd extended cab RWD that was headed to the Auction with 189K miles with a fairly decent body and the frame was pretty solid. The engine would barely run, wouldn't idle, all ball joints were shot and the interior was a "Smoker's " disaster. The Engine problems got me a better price. I read the codes and knew it had to be vacuum leaks and there was no knocking from the engine. It also had more oil on it than in it, which got the price down a little bit more. And noticing that the differential had a leak got it down a little bit more.
Ended up taking a valve cover gasket for the oil leak, a coil assembly, repairing 8 vacuum leaks (that I chased out with smoke while I had the front suspension and tires removed) and ripping out the carpet and replacing with vinyl (carpet in a truck? Really?) cleaned and deodorized it and a few other things (Plugs, Oil, coolant was good, New Brake pads, inspected the calipers (rebuilt one of them) Changed transmission fluid, inspected clutch parts, New muffler, outer tie rod ends, etc). I now have a dependable, smooth running and great riding little truck that I have a TOTAL of less than $4,000 invested and a few days of labor (spread out over several weeks, of course) and no monthly payments. I had budgeted $5500 for the project, so I have some left over for the next project. (More if I sell it. (Probably not. It's too fun to drive.))
Use Motorcraft parts when you can and don't always go with the cheapest price on parts. Most of those are "Chinesium" or plastic, don't hold up well at all, and almost guarantee that you will be back doing the same repair in the very near future. (Ask me how I know.) Also, making all the repairs before getting in to any "Modding" will keep you from going overbudget.
But yeah, if you find one in decent shape and are prepared to find and "Properly" fix all the little neglected problems, and remove all the "Jerry Rigging" that you find in these, they will hold up very well. If you find one that someone has already done all of the work (and has receipts), it would cost a bit more but still much less than a new one or a used larger truck. (It seems that everyone thinks that their truck is worth more than it actually is. Down here we call that "Sentimental Value".)
Actually, I would like to find an 89 Ranger, like I used to have. It was much better quality than the newer ones. When I traded it in in 1992, it was sold before I even left the lot.
Later! Take care.
I love that! That’s awesome that you fixed it up and drive it now. It’s cool that you seem to do projects on the side like the ranger you got. Thank you for sharing that and best of luck with it!
Go to junkyard & get a dome light from a mustang.
What year is yours?
2011
@@6speedfletch dope! Same here
Sound dampening I have 2011 and I got rid of all the noise and rattles
Just getting a 2011 next week. 102000 miles, came from West Texas, 2wd, supercab, oil changed every 5000 miles, 10,000 bucks. I’m feeling pretty good about it. The only thing that would’ve been better would be a manual and a canopy!
Can you tell me a little more about sound dampening-what you did and how you did it? Thanks!
My make nose little bit my 21 gallon tank
CLICK BAIT
?
Hey your power windows it's not a ranger thing it's a you thing it's called silicone lubricant. I got to say a lot of your complaints are just fucking maintenance thing take care of your truck
Well, many rangers need silicone lubricant then. Thanks for watching
No its a ranger thing dude I have same fuckin problem...! And I do manetaince on my truck. .......!
You dont have to use the emergency brake to park. Just leave it in gear. Smh. Noobs.