Thank You for the video. I just completed this job. A few notes A) I removed the wheel and inner panel. This make access to the tensioner and belt much easier. B) I disconnected the radiator hose in front of the alternator. This make access to the lower mounting bolt and moving the alternator around much easier. C) I did not touch the radiator support crossbeam, fans, or radiator D) I removed the oil dipstick and exhaust heatshield. This allows you to turn the alternator pulley facedown and pull it out toward the center the vehicle next to the radiator fill E) Be extremely careful. There's thin wires connected to the underside of the bracket at the back of the alternator. These wires go down to a sensor below the alternator. You really cant remove these wire until the alternator is pulled out slightly. It would be extremly easy to accident rip these wires out and many videos fail to metion them
This is a very good walkthrough! I was looking for an older video with the same method (without radiator removal) that I watched last year and came across this. Much cleaner and detailed!
You are one of Finest people that I have watched video for. It is super easy understanding the process because of your organized video. Thank you very much for posting this video
If you are doing this be sure to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor wiring harness from the alternator bracket. He did not show this during the video(the bracket with the 12MM under the exhaust manifold). I was doing this job and broke the harness off at the connector when removing the alternator. Now I wait half a week to get a pig tail shipped in. Also you don't have to remove the fans or radiator. If you are like me and break the crank shaft position sensor wire you are in for a treat. The crankshaft position sensor lives behind the ac compressor but above the oil filter housing. Its a bear to unbolt even though it is only torqued to a couple inch lbs. Its only marginally less difficult to get the connector to unplug from the sensor once it is out of the car. It is possible to take apart the connector and fix it but good luck finding 22 gauge wire from your auto parts store. Good video other wise just needed to vent a bit.
@@OnPointAdventuresND solder seal connectors and a harbor freight heat gun will be your friend. If you are able to de pin the connector without breaking it Toyota will sell you the pins with about 5 in or so of wire. O'Riley is the only auto parts store I could find that carries the pig tail (comes with the connector with pins and wire all put together). I bid you good luck.
@@lejoshmont2093 ouch... That is unfortunate... I got a little lucky and my neighbor came over to check out what I was doing and he helped me move the compressor to remove the sensor and then deconstruct the sensor to put the wires back in then put it all back together... Turned a 3 hour job into about 10 hours after I got a tool stuck in the car lol
@@bernardhammonds3718 Yea I need either some new wire to rebuild the existing connector or a pig tail to quickly install. I don't have a soldering iron so a crimp in solution is ideal.
Awesome video! Very detailed and the humor is appreciated since most of us watching this video are obviously dealing with car troubles lol. I love your scripture on your dash too!
Thank you for this. I changed mine and it took about 7 hours total. The actual labor was only about an hour and a half, but going back and forth to the hardware store for the right tools took up most of my time. Also the belt took up a lot of time. I did everything from the hood because my mechanic tightened my lug nuts on my wheel too tight and I needed to get this done asap. Great video, very helpful.
I recently did this on my Toyota V6. One note of caution. Be SURE to disconnect your battery before you start and don't hook it back up until everything's back together. Shorting at the alternator can blow a fuse that is a holy PITA to replace.
Thanks dude replaced my girls battery (since it was 6 years old) the light went away so I thought it was all good then died on her. saw this video and got it replaced in an hour. Only thing I didn’t see in the video was there’s a clip on the back of the alternator attached to the wiring harness that needed taken off but other than that video is perfect!
Just replaced my alternator. You don't have to remove the thermostat housing nor the radiator. You have to remove the fan assembly, a plastic shroud, and a thin piece of metal that sits a top the radiator. A total of about 12 bolts.
The bottom bracket that you move over connects to a line that was difficult for me to get the clip off of. I had to angle the alternator out and take the bracket off, then undo the clip/line to move the bracket over. To access the lower bolt (he calls it #3 in the video), I rented a serpentine belt tool and used a 3/8in dr 14mm deep socket to break it loose, then a long 3/8in dr ratchet to get it out all the way. A 1/2in dr 14mm deep will be too long and won't fit. I recommend having someone to help torque the tensioner when removing and putting the belt back on, as well as holding the alternator in place when only the top mounting bolt is in and trying to get the bottom bolt in by hand. Also you don't need to remove the hose for the radiator I managed to get by without doing so. Great tutorial really saved my ass
Personally I always test on the alternator directly. There have been times where the wire got chewed or there was some other issue (I had one where the battery stopped accepting a charge) Its better to probe right on the alternator and even disconnect the alternator top connection and get a reading there Just my two cents tho lol Thank you for the video. I'm tackling this job on my wife's car and this will save me a ton of time
thanks for the video learned a couple of things that would of made it easier before changing my own alternator. Like the allen key in the belt tensioner would of been great to know. I had used a bunch of zip ties and a bungie cord to hold my serpentine belt tool as I was working alone. Wouldn't recommend doing that again
is it easier to remove the 12 mm 3rd bolt on the brcket from the inside behind the alternator or the 12 mm bolt that is on the outer side of the bracket?
Awesome video even made me laugh a few times. I need to get this done today and you saved me a bunch of time and effort with this grade A videos and clutch af tips thanks for sharing your knowledge and time.
I am now in the club with a recent replacement of an alternator in a 2008 Toyota Camry XLE 3.5L 2GR-FE. Wear a glove on left hand that has the fingers and thumb cutoff - you'll thank me later. ALSO BUY THIS PITTSBURGH PRO 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive Long-Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet from Harbor freight - This will be your friend when removing and installing the lower 14mm bolt on the pulley side. It is also great for pulling on the tensioner FROM UNDERNEATH the car. Get the 1/4 short and extended metric sockets too for this. LEAVE THE SMALL BRACKET THAT IS ON THE NON PULLEY SIDE ATTACHED TO THE ac cable connector. You will remove the bolt from the bracket to the engine and also from the same bracket to the alternator. (there is an a/c plug you will have to remove if you remove the bracket with the alternator - You don't have to do that. When you get to the alternator bolts remove the bolt that fastens the bracket to the engine. Then loosen the top pulley side 14MM bolt (disconnect the hose next to it. Then go after the 14mm lower pulley side bolt. Wear your fingerless gloves.It moves slowly. Then go after the top pulley side 14mm and pull it out. THEN take out the bolt that fastens that little bracket to the alternator. You can do it. Move the alternator around to get a better position. When you put the alternator back in first bolt the bracket to the alternator. Then put in the top pulley side bolt so that it is started into the opposite threads leave it loose but threaded through. Then go on to the lower 14mm bolt on the pulley side. Get it firm with the 1/4 thin flex head with short then extended socket. Don't tighten it. Move over to the bolt that fastens the bracket to the engine it is a 12mm and install it. You may have to take a screw driver and put pressure on the bottom of the bracket below the bolt so that you can insert, align and thread the bolt into the block. Don't tighten it but make it firm. No go back over to the lower pulley and tighten. When that is tightened then go back over to the bracket bolt to the engine and tighten. Fishish with the Top bolt pulley sided. ONE MORE THING YOU DO NOT NEED TO PULL THE RADIATOR AS IT IS TOTALLY UNNECESSARY. Just remove the fan assembly, Also the air stuff and heat deflector, and cross support with horns on top. If I can do this anybody can.....and yes it took hours because I didn't know the short cuts.
Excellent video, gonna help me do my Avalon alternator here in about an hour. But a Q: Isn't what you call the "ground lug" at 1:33 actually the positive output? When I test voltage, I put my red probe on that stud, and the black on the engine, and get a positive reading. (If I'm wrong, please do correct me ... I'm not much of a "car repair" guy until lately.) Don't mean to bust your chops, just to correct any mis-info for people with my level of knowledge or less. Otherwise, rock on!
Mine did not have that wire. I believe only 2007+ have it? Anyway, someone else in the comments section said it was the crank position sensor wire. If you broke the wire it will need to be soldered back together
Have a question, I changed my alternator on my 2012 Toyota Camry and I was able to change my alternator but it still want start all it does is turn over,but I noticed two wires a red and green wire, and I don't where they go
On my 2013, the removal of the radiator is not necessary, but removal of the FAN SHROUD IS. The video looks like the fans were removed before recording started because the squeeze clips that hold it on top are bare. Key piece of info that needs to be included. Thanks. This got me started in the right direction. I had some other steps to discover along the way.
Nice video man and the Milwaukee tools are awesome I've seen coworkers over pay for snap-on electric tools but im Milwaukee all the way. I have the 3/8 drive impact as well and I've unbolted&bolted sub frames with it and go to make sure it's torqued with a long half inch ratchet and lemme tell you that little 3/8 impact is stronger than me. Anyways gotta do this on my dads car this weekend and haven't actually looked at the placement yet but could you have maneuvered it to take it out through the wheel-well rather than taking the rad support off? Cheers!
How long do they last? I changed my at 90k miles with aftermarket and I think I need new one at 160k miles. My dash lights started flashing and slowly all light inside and outside were turning off.
That sounds about right to me. If you want 150k+ out of your alternator you have to pony up for a factory new denso unit. Since it won’t likely leave you stranded, I wouldn’t hesitate to get another aftermarket one for the price savings.
Nice video thanks ! I changed my alternator on my 2009 avalon and it had only 77000 miles... not sure what was the cause but one morning the battery light came on and then the battery died completely (I couldn't even recharge it and it was a fairly recent battery), then I installed a new battery and the alternator started smoking like crazy (engine was off). Now I changed the alternator and everything seems to be fine now.
That's exactly what's going on with mine, (minus the smoke!) My battery is fairly new, so I'm really hoping it's the alternator I just picked up this afternoon! Haha.
@@ryanpowers435 Good luck with the installation !! In my case my old battery (that was still good) completed died because I tried to recharge it too often, back then I though the battery was the issue (but the alternator was draining it each time), that's when I installed a new battery and the alternator started to smoke right away, only then I realized the alternator is definitely the real issue 😅
@@c-sfrancoeu1883 Oof! That had to suck. I am afraid that it's both the battery and the alternator. Thanks for the luck (I'll probably need it! Lol) I'm actually excited to do it. It'll be my first alternator replacement on my own. I'll let you know how it goes! 🤞🏼
i was hoping you didnt take the rad hose off but i might see if i can squeeze it out cause im a lazy fuck and its just my dad's car and i'll be doing in a dark garage unfortunately
Managed to do it without taking tire off in about 2 hours (I work kinda slowly)! Your instructions were great. Thanks so much. Also, regarding other comments below about another wire that could snap behind it (as shown in this video: th-cam.com/video/5nN_g_yRkVE/w-d-xo.html) I didn't have one like that. Maybe only on Touring or Limited models? Either way, thanks!!!!
You missed the part about the crankshaft position sensor wire also being attached to the BOTTOM of the alternator. Kind of a big miss considering you cant see it and if you pull the wires out of the harness you are f$@!ed. Big miss here be careful everyone!
That’s weird, this was the original alternator and I didn’t have the crank sensor wire connected to the alternator. I didn’t miss it- it simply wasn’t connected to the alternator. It is easy to snag though, you have to be careful. What year was yours?
Sorry man, my 2006 didn’t have that clipped to the alternator otherwise I definitely would’ve filmed it. I just ripped out the camshaft position sensor on my Solara and you really don’t need a new harness if you can solder. The pins are removable.
Personally I just hold the car up with my hands no jack or stand needed and undo the bolt with my own feet not a crows foot bird feet are weak just a big toe and long toe sometime you just gotta live life on roids and risk
Thank You for the video. I just completed this job. A few notes
A) I removed the wheel and inner panel. This make access to the tensioner and belt much easier.
B) I disconnected the radiator hose in front of the alternator. This make access to the lower mounting bolt and moving the alternator around much easier.
C) I did not touch the radiator support crossbeam, fans, or radiator
D) I removed the oil dipstick and exhaust heatshield. This allows you to turn the alternator pulley facedown and pull it out toward the center the vehicle next to the radiator fill
E) Be extremely careful. There's thin wires connected to the underside of the bracket at the back of the alternator. These wires go down to a sensor below the alternator. You really cant remove these wire until the alternator is pulled out slightly. It would be extremly easy to accident rip these wires out and many videos fail to metion them
This is a very good walkthrough! I was looking for an older video with the same method (without radiator removal) that I watched last year and came across this. Much cleaner and detailed!
You are one of Finest people that I have watched video for. It is super easy understanding the process because of your organized video.
Thank you very much for posting this video
Thank you for the kind words! Very glad it helped.
If you are doing this be sure to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor wiring harness from the alternator bracket. He did not show this during the video(the bracket with the 12MM under the exhaust manifold). I was doing this job and broke the harness off at the connector when removing the alternator. Now I wait half a week to get a pig tail shipped in. Also you don't have to remove the fans or radiator. If you are like me and break the crank shaft position sensor wire you are in for a treat. The crankshaft position sensor lives behind the ac compressor but above the oil filter housing. Its a bear to unbolt even though it is only torqued to a couple inch lbs. Its only marginally less difficult to get the connector to unplug from the sensor once it is out of the car. It is possible to take apart the connector and fix it but good luck finding 22 gauge wire from your auto parts store. Good video other wise just needed to vent a bit.
Pretty sure the same thing just happened to me. Sucks he said nothing about this! All the sudden I have bare wire ends sitting here like wtf
@@OnPointAdventuresND solder seal connectors and a harbor freight heat gun will be your friend. If you are able to de pin the connector without breaking it Toyota will sell you the pins with about 5 in or so of wire. O'Riley is the only auto parts store I could find that carries the pig tail (comes with the connector with pins and wire all put together). I bid you good luck.
After looking at this, and you explained so excellently, honest mechanics deserve every cent. ❤
That clear box tip is absolutely genius for working out on the field how you said
life saver... although i learned more about my car than i wanted.... and i pulled the timing/crankshaft sensor wires out... that was FANTASTIC
oh yea broke that wire off at the connector too. To make it even better it was on the week end wont be able to fix the car till Tuesday.
@@lejoshmont2093 ouch... That is unfortunate... I got a little lucky and my neighbor came over to check out what I was doing and he helped me move the compressor to remove the sensor and then deconstruct the sensor to put the wires back in then put it all back together... Turned a 3 hour job into about 10 hours after I got a tool stuck in the car lol
@@bernardhammonds3718 Yea I need either some new wire to rebuild the existing connector or a pig tail to quickly install. I don't have a soldering iron so a crimp in solution is ideal.
@@lejoshmont2093 ouch, good luck... Don't you love repairing your own car!
Awesome video! Very detailed and the humor is appreciated since most of us watching this video are obviously dealing with car troubles lol. I love your scripture on your dash too!
Thank you for this. I changed mine and it took about 7 hours total. The actual labor was only about an hour and a half, but going back and forth to the hardware store for the right tools took up most of my time. Also the belt took up a lot of time. I did everything from the hood because my mechanic tightened my lug nuts on my wheel too tight and I needed to get this done asap. Great video, very helpful.
I recently did this on my Toyota V6. One note of caution. Be SURE to disconnect your battery before you start and don't hook it back up until everything's back together. Shorting at the alternator can blow a fuse that is a holy PITA to replace.
Thanks dude replaced my girls battery (since it was 6 years old) the light went away so I thought it was all good then died on her. saw this video and got it replaced in an hour. Only thing I didn’t see in the video was there’s a clip on the back of the alternator attached to the wiring harness that needed taken off but other than that video is perfect!
yep I broke that wire let me tell you fun times.
This was perfect for me. Best video for changing alternator on my avalon
That was an excellent video. Very good light, clear explanations and even humorous. Well done. Thanks.
Awesome video and helped me with my car. Stay grounded is good advice. As a therapist I second that!
Great video and explanation, with the help of it I did this by myself like a pro mechanic! 😂 God bless!
Thanks, excellent video, I didn't pull the tire and ended up pulling the fans off the radiator to squeeze it out but I really appreciate the video.
Just replaced my alternator. You don't have to remove the thermostat housing nor the radiator. You have to remove the fan assembly, a plastic shroud, and a thin piece of metal that sits a top the radiator. A total of about 12 bolts.
The bottom bracket that you move over connects to a line that was difficult for me to get the clip off of. I had to angle the alternator out and take the bracket off, then undo the clip/line to move the bracket over.
To access the lower bolt (he calls it #3 in the video), I rented a serpentine belt tool and used a 3/8in dr 14mm deep socket to break it loose, then a long 3/8in dr ratchet to get it out all the way. A 1/2in dr 14mm deep will be too long and won't fit.
I recommend having someone to help torque the tensioner when removing and putting the belt back on, as well as holding the alternator in place when only the top mounting bolt is in and trying to get the bottom bolt in by hand. Also you don't need to remove the hose for the radiator I managed to get by without doing so.
Great tutorial really saved my ass
This video might be the best one. Thank you.
Personally I always test on the alternator directly. There have been times where the wire got chewed or there was some other issue (I had one where the battery stopped accepting a charge)
Its better to probe right on the alternator and even disconnect the alternator top connection and get a reading there
Just my two cents tho lol
Thank you for the video. I'm tackling this job on my wife's car and this will save me a ton of time
Great tutorial! I'm doing this job on my wife's car and didn't even know about the 12mm bracket.
Great video...straight forward...no ..nonsense...thank you very mucch
thanks for the video learned a couple of things that would of made it easier before changing my own alternator. Like the allen key in the belt tensioner would of been great to know. I had used a bunch of zip ties and a bungie cord to hold my serpentine belt tool as I was working alone. Wouldn't recommend doing that again
This video makes me feel better about paying a professional mechanic a tidy sum to do all of this work for me.
is it easier to remove the 12 mm 3rd bolt on the brcket from the inside behind the alternator or the 12 mm bolt that is on the outer side of the bracket?
Great video. No way I'm going to DIY but at least I'm educated before going to shop.
Great job and very useful explanations thank you.
What’s that bracket on the old that has to be placed on the new one. Mine doesn’t have that bracket
I enjoyed the video your mechanical ability your funny cracks and grunting. Thanks...
Awesome video even made me laugh a few times. I need to get this done today and you saved me a bunch of time and effort with this grade A videos and clutch af tips thanks for sharing your knowledge and time.
I am now in the club with a recent replacement of an alternator in a 2008 Toyota Camry XLE 3.5L 2GR-FE. Wear a glove on left hand that has the fingers and thumb cutoff - you'll thank me later. ALSO BUY THIS PITTSBURGH PRO 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive Long-Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet from Harbor freight - This will be your friend when removing and installing the lower 14mm bolt on the pulley side. It is also great for pulling on the tensioner FROM UNDERNEATH the car. Get the 1/4 short and extended metric sockets too for this. LEAVE THE SMALL BRACKET THAT IS ON THE NON PULLEY SIDE ATTACHED TO THE ac cable connector. You will remove the bolt from the bracket to the engine and also from the same bracket to the alternator. (there is an a/c plug you will have to remove if you remove the bracket with the alternator - You don't have to do that. When you get to the alternator bolts remove the bolt that fastens the bracket to the engine. Then loosen the top pulley side 14MM bolt (disconnect the hose next to it. Then go after the 14mm lower pulley side bolt. Wear your fingerless gloves.It moves slowly. Then go after the top pulley side 14mm and pull it out. THEN take out the bolt that fastens that little bracket to the alternator. You can do it. Move the alternator around to get a better position. When you put the alternator back in first bolt the bracket to the alternator. Then put in the top pulley side bolt so that it is started into the opposite threads leave it loose but threaded through. Then go on to the lower 14mm bolt on the pulley side. Get it firm with the 1/4 thin flex head with short then extended socket. Don't tighten it. Move over to the bolt that fastens the bracket to the engine it is a 12mm and install it. You may have to take a screw driver and put pressure on the bottom of the bracket below the bolt so that you can insert, align and thread the bolt into the block. Don't tighten it but make it firm. No go back over to the lower pulley and tighten. When that is tightened then go back over to the bracket bolt to the engine and tighten. Fishish with the Top bolt pulley sided. ONE MORE THING YOU DO NOT NEED TO PULL THE RADIATOR AS IT IS TOTALLY UNNECESSARY. Just remove the fan assembly, Also the air stuff and heat deflector, and cross support with horns on top. If I can do this anybody can.....and yes it took hours because I didn't know the short cuts.
Excellent video, gonna help me do my Avalon alternator here in about an hour.
But a Q: Isn't what you call the "ground lug" at 1:33 actually the positive output? When I test voltage, I put my red probe on that stud, and the black on the engine, and get a positive reading. (If I'm wrong, please do correct me ... I'm not much of a "car repair" guy until lately.)
Don't mean to bust your chops, just to correct any mis-info for people with my level of knowledge or less.
Otherwise, rock on!
No, you’re correct! It’s a lug, but not ground. I misspoke.
Great video..funny also..doing mine saturday...not so greasy !
Hey on the bracket that goes behind the alternator. What wire is that for? Mine ripped and I can’t seem to trace it. Pls help!!!
Mine did not have that wire. I believe only 2007+ have it?
Anyway, someone else in the comments section said it was the crank position sensor wire. If you broke the wire it will need to be soldered back together
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 I have a 2005 and it has a black and white color wire. Definitely gonna look into that.
Unless the cable is a dead end
@junebug346 maybe it’s related to the trim level then? Does it run without it?
Have a question, I changed my alternator on my 2012 Toyota Camry and I was able to change my alternator but it still want start all it does is turn over,but I noticed two wires a red and green wire, and I don't where they go
Did you change the alternator to fix the no-start issue? Or did you change it for some other reason and NOW it won’t start?
On my 2013, the removal of the radiator is not necessary, but removal of the FAN SHROUD IS. The video looks like the fans were removed before recording started because the squeeze clips that hold it on top are bare. Key piece of info that needs to be included. Thanks. This got me started in the right direction. I had some other steps to discover along the way.
No fan shroud to remove on the 06… this is a different generation than your car but it’s close enough glad it helped!
Is it possible to get away this easy on a camry 2007?
I've seen a ton of videos, but the freaking groaning was classic. problem after problem after problem. I totally related.
Glad it’s not just my v6 camry lol
Yes! It's definitely the sound effects for me. 😅😅😅
Thanks for the info. It helps me alot.
Excellent walkthrough!
Does this apply for the ES350 as well?
It should I believe
Great vid helped me so much thank you
very well explained 🎉🎉
Do you have a belt diagram ?.
I screwed up last year and the internet doesn't pull up a diagram
Just google 2GR belt diagram- should be plenty of help there :)
Nice video man and the Milwaukee tools are awesome I've seen coworkers over pay for snap-on electric tools but im Milwaukee all the way. I have the 3/8 drive impact as well and I've unbolted&bolted sub frames with it and go to make sure it's torqued with a long half inch ratchet and lemme tell you that little 3/8 impact is stronger than me. Anyways gotta do this on my dads car this weekend and haven't actually looked at the placement yet but could you have maneuvered it to take it out through the wheel-well rather than taking the rad support off?
Cheers!
Maybe if you melt the alternator with oxy-acetylene torch and let the molten metal drip down through the wheel well… does that count?
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 I don't have torches at home unfortunately lmao sounds good man
Thanks for the help!
How much $ labor on average?
$400.00 for labor - I was quoted from the cheapest place in town.
Thank you. Great Vid. Appreciate it. My god what an ugly job for an alternator!!! I did save $500 so worth it but still... worst job.
I can't get that bolt out above the pulley... Help
Can you give me a time stamp of exactly where you’re stuck
Good thing I bought a bunch of extensions for my spark plug change on this engine....
I thought for a second I was watching a younger Scotty Kilmer at work 😅
How long do they last? I changed my at 90k miles with aftermarket and I think I need new one at 160k miles. My dash lights started flashing and slowly all light inside and outside were turning off.
That sounds about right to me. If you want 150k+ out of your alternator you have to pony up for a factory new denso unit. Since it won’t likely leave you stranded, I wouldn’t hesitate to get another aftermarket one for the price savings.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 factory remanufactured also isn't a bad idea its quite cost competitive.
Nice video thanks !
I changed my alternator on my 2009 avalon and it had only 77000 miles... not sure what was the cause but one morning the battery light came on and then the battery died completely (I couldn't even recharge it and it was a fairly recent battery), then I installed a new battery and the alternator started smoking like crazy (engine was off). Now I changed the alternator and everything seems to be fine now.
That's exactly what's going on with mine, (minus the smoke!) My battery is fairly new, so I'm really hoping it's the alternator I just picked up this afternoon! Haha.
@@ryanpowers435 Good luck with the installation !! In my case my old battery (that was still good) completed died because I tried to recharge it too often, back then I though the battery was the issue (but the alternator was draining it each time), that's when I installed a new battery and the alternator started to smoke right away, only then I realized the alternator is definitely the real issue 😅
@@c-sfrancoeu1883 Oof! That had to suck. I am afraid that it's both the battery and the alternator.
Thanks for the luck (I'll probably need it! Lol)
I'm actually excited to do it. It'll be my first alternator replacement on my own. I'll let you know how it goes! 🤞🏼
nice tutorial. 10\10
I’m back a year later because my alternator went bad again! Lifetime warranty at least but ugh. Should be faster this time.
i was hoping you didnt take the rad hose off but i might see if i can squeeze it out cause im a lazy fuck and its just my dad's car and i'll be doing in a dark garage unfortunately
thank you so much
Legend. Thanks sir.
Great video
Great video…. I wish I’d seen it yesterday 🤬
Thank you
Managed to do it without taking tire off in about 2 hours (I work kinda slowly)! Your instructions were great. Thanks so much. Also, regarding other comments below about another wire that could snap behind it (as shown in this video: th-cam.com/video/5nN_g_yRkVE/w-d-xo.html) I didn't have one like that. Maybe only on Touring or Limited models? Either way, thanks!!!!
love it
Great fucking job, these cars are a pain to work on
thank you!
wire on alt is NOT ground . ITS POWER !!!!!
Good catch!
The only thing I would do different is test it to make sure it actually works before I put everything else back together.
I just sub I like ur video
You missed the part about the crankshaft position sensor wire also being attached to the BOTTOM of the alternator. Kind of a big miss considering you cant see it and if you pull the wires out of the harness you are f$@!ed. Big miss here be careful everyone!
That’s weird, this was the original alternator and I didn’t have the crank sensor wire connected to the alternator. I didn’t miss it- it simply wasn’t connected to the alternator. It is easy to snag though, you have to be careful. What year was yours?
@thedoubtfultechnician8067 mine is a 2007 avalon. It was like clipped onto the bottom of it. Now I wait for the harness, sucks.
Sorry man, my 2006 didn’t have that clipped to the alternator otherwise I definitely would’ve filmed it. I just ripped out the camshaft position sensor on my Solara and you really don’t need a new harness if you can solder. The pins are removable.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067it's probably because someone replaced it before and left the clip unhooked
Something tells me he did way too much work to get that out but hey what do I know
that is not a ground nut.
Wow these Avalon alternators don’t last long.
Personally I just hold the car up with my hands no jack or stand needed and undo the bolt with my own feet not a crows foot bird feet are weak just a big toe and long toe sometime you just gotta live life on roids and risk
What a pain in the ass! Great video tho
FYI .That's a condenser that you're removing bolts on in the front.. not a radiator
Those bolts hold the radiator AND condenser in place so removing them also frees up the radiator
This looks like an easier method until you start talking about removing the radiator support etc
Easier is relative. Removing a few 10mm bolts is easier than pulling the entire radiator and idk any third method