Toyota Alternator Replacement - 3.5L V6 GRFE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- This video will show you how to replace an alternator on a 2007 Toyota Camry V6 with the 3.5L GRFE engine. The procedure may be used on other Toyota vehicles such as the RX350, RAV4, Venza and Highlander. The only issue for vehicles outside of the Camry is if there's enough room to remove the alternator without the need to remove the radiator / AC condenser fan shroud. I had previously replaced an alternator on a Avalon with the same engine without removing the shroud. With the Camry, there was no space to remove the alternator without first removing removing the shroud.
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Parts and Specialty Tools:
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Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel:
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Today I replaced an alternator on my 2005 Avalon thanks to your video but I also watched other videos that showed shortcuts. Turns out that there’s no need to disconnect the hoses or take out the fan shroud. All you really need to do is unbolt the radiator support, lift up entire assembly of radiator/condenser, tilt it towards the bumper and that will give you wiggle room to take out the alternator. Unbolt the dipstick, it will move to the side, and remove the heat shield on the intake manifold which will also allow you to access the bolt that attaches the L shaped bracket in the back of the alternator. Once you loosen the serpentine belt and remove main bolts that holds the alternator its out with the old and in with the new. I’m glad I didn’t have to deal with the antifreeze mess. Cheers and thanks for posting useful videos.
Some Toyota vehicles (like the Avalon) provide enough clearance to remove the alternator without removing the shroud. The ES350, for example, is not possible.
Some cool tools and tricks in there. I used it as a general guideline to replace a 2GR-FE (3.5L V6) alternator yesterday, and found idler pulley and coolant tube removal to be unnecessary, though I also removed 1 bolt for the dip-stick, and 4 bolts up top holding the radiator's subframe, to allow for a little more wiggle room to get fan shroud removal clearance. Additionally, I removed the passenger-side front wheel and access cover in that wheel well (2 bolts) to gain improved access to the crank pulley which made serpentine belt replacement much easier (it didn't look like you replaced yours, though I wanted to do it proactively). I took several hours to perform the whole operation, but will definitely be MUCH faster if I ever have to do it again, and I'm glad your video made it look easy enough to try myself. Thanks!
Thanks for your comments! Next time I try to perform the replacement without removing the idler pulley, radiator hose and inlet pipe. Yes, perhaps going through the right front wheel well would make it possible. I just wanted to do the whole job working from above the car instead of below.
Hi. Did you replace your alternator on a Highlander or did you do it on another model, like a Camry or Avalon? I have a 2008 Highlander and was wondering if your technique would work on my 3.5L 2GR-FE. Thanks
If you have the 3.5l v6 highlander, the procedure should be nearly identical.
@@hardlymovingpro To be sure, if I read it right, no pulley removal, no coolant tube removal but you did remove the fan shroud assembly?.. which entailed draining radiator to remove radiator hoses? Thanks
Upper hose in the way when removing the fan shroud.
This is probably the best video for a V6 Camry this style... some have you removing the bumper and everything that is not necessary. Here are the torque specs for the critical stuff that was removed:
-15 ft-lbs for the M8 bolt (Alternator - lower bolt)
-38 ft-lbs for the M10 bolt (Alternator - upper bolt)
-74 in-lbs for the wiring harness clamp
-7 ft-lbs for the alternator wire
-31 ft lbs Idler Pully bolt torque spec
-89 in pounds (don't over-torque) Thermostat Housing Nut torque spec
Video was very helpful, be sure to shop around at rock auto and other places for better prices on the alternator. Would recommend Denso which was posted above - went with a rebuild myself after looking on Toyota forms and finding the recommendations.
Thank you very much Hardly moving for helping me - I really didn't have the money to have someone fix it for $870 when it only cost me just over $300 myself after buying the belt tool, thermostat (replaced that and seal - since I was there).
Thanks for your post and comments. The audience will appreciate it.
Man !!! I thought only 2 bolts to hold the alternator......and it kicked my butts for 2 hours then I decided to watch your video again......Everything is OK now.....Thank you very much !!!
Yes ... very deceiving when looking at a new alternator with only 2 bolts to mount on!
😅there is a 3rd screw for bracket connecting to alternator just above power supply pin
My 3rd bracket has a pass through for securing more alternator wires. What a mess
I was discouraged by this lengthy process, but it is was it is, and brother, you did a great job of explaining it. Followed along with the video and perfecto! Thank you very much.
Glad it worked out for you and thanks for your support!
@@hardlymovingpro hey man, when you re-installed the belt, did you time the engine? Can you take off the belt and just but it back on ?
@@guillermoquinones9087 this is an accessory belt not an engine timing belt although im sure you figured it out eventually
Sometimes it is even harder than it looks, even it is difficult to unplug electrical connections, if you are not so familiar it
@@tkrdg7885 Especially when they haven't been out since the car was manufactured. And being in the rust belt seems to make even the easiest jobs difficult. I had to use a pry bar today for the two slides in front of the alt. This job is very tedious and annoying. Day 2 tomorrow! :(
Awesome video. Great angles. Great explanation. Great picture quality. Straight to the point.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for your comments and critique!
Your video was well presented and pretty much complete. My kids were 400 miles away when problems arose. With the help of this video and my knowledge, I was able to talk them through the procedure and save them between $400-$500 dollars. If I could make 1 suggestion, and that would be to include bolt/but sizes, but not a major deal. Thanks again!
Bolt & NUT sizes! Phone "corrected" me!
Wow ... that's amazing! You talked them through without pictures or video? They didn't have access to an internet connection as well? Personally, I don't think I would have had the patience. My standard routine would be to have them watch the video first before answering any of their questions.
No, I sent them the video too. Good work!
Thanks. Checking out your channel with your oldies music videos. Where's Emerson, Lake & Palmer?
Just finished this job on 2011 Toyota Avalon. Was able to do without removing thermostat housing. Removing dipstick bracket and heat shield (3 bolts) provides plenty of room to remove bolt from back of alternator. I would recommend leaving bracket bolted to block as the crankshaft sensor wire is connected to it. Removal of fans provided necessary room to get alternator out.
Interesting. I did a 2008 Avalon over a year ago and there was enough room where I didn't need to remove the fan shroud. I'll keep you suggestion in mind when a 2011 comes my way.
Yup ... That bottom bolt is a 🐻 bear!
Thanks so much. I did not know about the bracket in the back of the alternator. holy crap I was struggling. I had to unfasten the dipstick and move it out of the way to get to it. I did not need to remove the fan shround, coolant reserve tank, or air intake. near the front of the vehicle on the passenger side there is a bracket that secures the ac lines as they run towards the firewall. its 1 10 mm bolt. I removed that and was able to flip the alternator with the pulley facing the ground and alternator diagonal and pulled it out straight up and went right in the same exact way. The ac lines move just far enough to pop out the alternator and pop it back in without to much stress on the ac lines. Save a little time. Again thanks so much!
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I just replaced the alternator on my Camry and using your video as guide, I knew to remove the thermostat housing and pulley beneath it. Thanks.
👍great!
Thanks for the video, very helpful. This was a tough job. It took me about 5 1/2 hours. I am sore today after it. I appreciate the video as it helps to avoid tearing things up trying to get them out.
Good for you and glad the video helped!
Keep up the awesome Toyota videos! Nice to watch someone who for the most part knows what they are doing!
Thanks, will do!
I priced the alternator at O'Reilly's for $320. Thankfully, my employer also owns an alternator and battery shop so I got one for free. I'm looking to do this job this weekend and you made it look doable. Thanks for the video.
You bet and let us know your experience!
Thanks for making this video. As with many others this helped me do this myself. I picked up a reman alternator at O'Reilly auto for $190 and had it swapped in 3 hrs. Definitely a better method than some of the DIYs I saw that have you removing the entire bumper assembly, etc.
By the way the general consensus of local shops was about $900 for this job!!
Good job! $900 is a little over the top but I have a theory: The more difficult it looks for the DIY guy to do, the more the shops feel comfortable in quoting a ridiculously higher price.
@@hardlymovingpro yep! Everywhere I called they made a big deal about how big of a job it was. Then again, part of the issue was that they said the alternator price was $450ish for a reman. Huge part markup!
@@nicolassiemsen9856 Just keep in mind that it's a clutched alternator. I've seen these rebuilds go bad because the clutch wasn't properly rebuilt (voltage jumping up and down). I went with a Denso (OEM) rebuild. A little bit pricier but the customer had more peace of mind after dealing with an Autozone rebuilt with a "lifetime" warranty that kept failing.
I bought a used alternator with only 25,000 miles for $50. It tested fine and is OEM.
Thank you, this helped me replace the alternator in my 2011 v6. In my case, there was enough access without removing the idler pulley and thermostat housing; I just disconnected the lower radiator hose from it. I also tried a shortcut suggested in the comments to remove the core support bolts to tilt the radiator/ fan assembly forward rather than removing the fans. It did provide additional wiggle room but in my case not enough to maneuver the alternator around the ac hardlines without forcing things. In the end, I found it easier to pull the fans as shown to get the additional room.
Glad it all worked out and thanks for sharing!
I got stuck with the 3 Rd bracket, thank you so much !!!
You bet!
Yikes! I’ll be doing this work on the Mother in law’s Avalon next week after returning from vacation. Thanks for the descriptive video and tips on what you encountered during R&R process. It’ll make my job a little easier 👍
No problem and good luck with the repair!
@@hardlymovingpro Absolutely, will start looking. Thanks...
@@hardlymovingpro
Thanks, I'll need it.
Thanks for making this video, it made the job much easier than some of the tutorials that have you basically taking the bumper off of and. radiator out and I’ll kind of stuff, I almost cussed at you a couple times when I couldn’t get the fans out (You kind of fast forwarded through the wire plugs that had to come out) but I eventually did get them out and putting them in with much easier for some reason. Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks ... sometimes may go too fast but you didn't complain you were bored.
Very helpful video thanks. I see these Toyota’s replacing the Alternator requires a lot of Labor vs old chevys. That’s why I see shops charge a lot more on these vehicles. I enjoyed the video.
You bet!
Thanks for the step by step. I was quoted 750$ at a shop, saved so much
Wow ... that's big bucks!
Thank you very much for this video. It was very helpful. Got it changed tonight and you get the credit. Thank you again.
That's great! Thanks for you comment and compliment! To support our channel and receive notifications of new videos, please subscribe!
Now this is the second video I saw of yours. I have seen other people do the alternator on this car, but you by far made it about as simple as it could be! Thanks! Oh, and, mine is not defective yet, but I have 154k on the clock, so I'm "getting ready". And thanks to you I think I can do just like you did - what I am calling - the simplest way!
One other thought.....the 3.5 engine has the belt tensioner in the most restricted area/position I've ever seen one. It looks like one would have to remove the alternator, and then pull the A/C compressor forwards (towards the front of the car) to gain access to the bolts on the tensioner. If you ever do one, please video/post it, OK? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for you comment Stephen ... appreciate it! We'll be putting out a video on how you can potentially extend the life out of the alternator simply by replacing the carbon commutator brushes. Its a normal wear item and you can get new brushes with the brush holder for less than $15. With respect to the 3.5 accessory belt, yes, it's hard to replace. From my recollection, removing the side motor mount makes the process a little bit easier. Then relieve the tension on the belt while removed the upper belt idler pulley with the other hand. After the pulley has been removed, relieve the tension again to do the final belt removal.
@@hardlymovingpro Hi back to you. Listen, I had a few separate thoughts here. First, my understanding was that the clutch pulley on the alternator, was a huge failure item (as opposed to the brushes). I mean, I know the brushes fail, but several people - even here on you tube - had to replace the alternator because the de-clutching pulley failed.
Next thought is, I believe one can change those brushes without removing the alternator. There is a plastic cover on the back of the alternator, that has 3 nuts holding it on. Remove the cover with the alternator still in the car. Then reach in and undo the 2 screws that are retaining the brush holder (and brushes), and pull them out.
Third thought is - I think you misunderstood what I was saying about the serpentine belt TENSIONER. It lives near the bottom of the engine, and is squeezed between the A/C compressor, and the engine block. That is why I said - when the alternator is out, one would next undo the 4 bolts holding the A/C compressor on, and slowly pull the compressor a few inches forward, so then you can get to the bolts holding the tensioner in place. If you do that job - I'd sure like to see it!
I'm sorry ... but the alternator isn't clutched. Are you talking about the A/C compressor clutch or the alternator pulley bearing? You're basically correct about getting to the brush holder ... if you can without removing the alternator. Next time I do a alternator replacement on a GRFE engine, I'll see if you're method works. Thanks for the post!
@@hardlymovingpro Wow....listen....I see the pictures you have of the new, and the removed alternators, and the pulleys on them ARE one way clutches. Why would they have those black plastic covers over the front of them, if that wasn't a clutch?
I have a 2007, and it absolutely, definitely IS clutched. I stuck a screwdriver inside the alternator front, while the serpentine belt was still on holding the pulley in one position, and I could spin the fins one way, but not the other. I did this to check the condition of the clutch. And it did spin one way, and not the other.
Look on Rock Auto, 2007 Camry, V6, electrical, alternator pulley, and this is what comes up: GATES 37026P Decoupler Pulley
@@hardlymovingpro PS - It is not an electrical clutch....it's a one-way clutch. It grabs in the direction that the belt is turning the alternator, but it allows the alternator to free wheel in the other direction. They did this to unload the belt, when the alternator is spinning at very high speed, and then you slow suddenly. Just look it up on any parts supplier's listing for the alternator, and you see that they also offer the clutch pulley as a separate item....for about $45.
Friend hardly! I want to thank you. all the valuable information you shared with your video. thank you very much and good luck!
You bet and thanks!
I was able to remove the alt w/o draining the water or removing the rad support. Here's how. Remove the heat shield over the exhaust manifold. It's held in w three small bolts. Remove top, bottom and rear bracket bolts. Swivel the alt and then remove the bracket in the rear of the alt and the alt comes out. I'd also suggest you label every bolt as you remove them because they r not interchangeable. Take photos too. To relieve the tension on the tensioner I welded a short 14mm socket to a 2' long piece of flat steel. That made a great tensioner.
Good to know and I'll try your technique next time!
This is a good video and a good how to. Thank you for sharing. Just know that green coolant can damage the 2grfe engine and that you should only use 50/50 pink coolant on a Toyota engine because the pH of the green coolant is more likely to damage the water pump.
Thanks! Haven't had problems using green universal coolants.
Thanks a lot man. Followed this video and got mine working again. Had to fight with the fan to get it out lol. This is a great video.
Hey ... thanks for your post and support!
The best video on you tube about Toyota Camry 2006-2011 3.5 engine good job
Thanks!
Wow GREAT video! To think I used to install an Alternator on my OLD cars in under 30 min.! How hard is that fan assembly to get in n out? How many hours is this job?
If you've never done it before, around 3 hrs max.
Fan assembly isn't too hard if not an ES350
Thanks, man. I wish I had found your video first the other day.
You bet!
I think there is a typo in the views. It should read 117K not 117 views. My opinion. Thanks for the concise and informative video.
Ha ... Ha... thanks! Just a matter of time before the traffic comes my may?
Watching this convinced me to take our highlander to a shop to have this done. I replaced on alternator on our Silverado a couple of years ago - piece of cake. Not this car. I’d bust my knuckles and hands attempting this.
Do it enough times and it does get easy.
Thanks! you had a few tips that made this easy. Thanks for posting this.
Glad it worked out for you!
Bro you made that look easy..... that is a tough job...... well done
Thanks ... Just timing consuming ... Easy with the right tools.
Thanks for the video! I have an '06 Avalon and I had no idea what a PITA this job was until I watched this video. That funnel thing that you used to refill the radiator, how does that work to get the air out of the system? Thanks again.
The funnel works by allowing you to bring the engine to normal operating temperature (with the radiator cap off) without worry about coolant overflow as the coolant expands. As the coolant temps rises, heated coolant will rise into funnel along with air bubbles being released from air pockets. Afterwards, shut the car off and let the engine cool down. As the coolant condenses causing a mild vacuum, whatever coolant the cooling system needs will get suck in from the excess coolant in the funnel. Excess coolant in the funnel can be plugged with the funnel's plunger. The funnel with the excess coolant can be removed from the radiator cap port will little coolant spill over.
Thanks!!
Thank you for your help. The radiator fan was the hardest to get out.
You're right!
thank you for this video. it was really helpful. i recently replaced the alternator on my 2009 Venza 3.5L AWD. now I'm about to replace the engine mounts, L&R control arms, and lower ball joints. I'd appreciate it if you can share any tips on replacing these parts.
Glad it worked out for you. All FWD Toyota vehicles (including Lexus) pretty much share the same engine and transmission layout. You can use this video as a guide to replace the control arms: th-cam.com/video/m4yJwG7WkCA/w-d-xo.html
And this one for the motor mounts: th-cam.com/video/GsiXO0M1-Ro/w-d-xo.html
Good Luck!
will be changing my alternator next weekend on my Toyota Estima hope it comes out as easy as this
Good luck 👍
Good video... lots of work... bad engineering to put this part so hard to get to. How long does it take to do this repair?
First time i did the job ... 3 hrs
Can confirm this same approach works on the V6 Camry 2012 (XV50)
Thank you for the detailed video. It was well done and it saved me a lot of money.
You're welcome and glad it worked out for you!
Yep. Liked and subscribed. Its a B doing these but follow the Master here and you will be done the first time. Take your time and take care not to cross thread anything. That's it. I went ahead and replaced the belt with OEM at the same time, and if any of your pulley's are questionable, you might as well do them now the ALT is out of the way....same for the "$1200" belt tensioner. If you have a V6 Camry, get used to removing the upper core support and fan shroud! Great video Great mechanic!
Thanks!
Great video! I am about to try doing this myself on a 2011 Toyota Venza V6. Do you mind sharing the tool you used to loosen the pulley for the belt removal. I think that is the only tool I am missing. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for your comment. To answer your question, I used the Mountain brand long handle, swivel head, reversible offset, ratcheted box wrench ... 12 mm on one end, 14 mm on the other end. It's not a easy tool to find and it's not cheap ... but it will last you a long time and you will use it a lot. This is professional quality commonly used by the pros. There's cheaper ones out there that I've tried but they don't last (swivel head gets loose, no offset, non reversible). The link to Amazon is here: amzn.to/2HS6Tkn
If you want the complete set up to 19 mm, here's the link: amzn.to/2HDcPOX
Good luck with the repair!
Hardly Moving Productions Just wanted to follow up and share that I was able to successfully complete the alternator change. Your video was spot on and I followed it step-by-step to complete the job. Quotes from local shops in my area of SoCal were in the range of $950 to 750. I completed for $160 (price of Denso alternator minus core). Thanks again.
Must be pretty satisfying having saved all that money! Wow ... the local shop quotes are ridiculous!
Good video! Just changed one on a 2016 Avalon. Wish I had seen this video before changing mine. I had to figure it out as I went. Ugh! Old one was putting out less than 12 volts under full load. New one is putting out over 13 volts and everything seems to be working fine but battery light is on. Will probably have to tear it apart again. Any ides what might be causing the light.
Some rebuilt alternators can have spotty output. My preference is AdvanceAuto or Denso rebuilds.
nice video man just wondering did you have to do anything with computer like reseting on or it's connects itself?thanks
Nope ... nothing to reset.
this is why i love my 97 Corolla,everything is so easy to remove and install unlike these newer cars of today.The car manufacturers are purposely making cars with parts and accessories almost impossible to remove and repair,because they want you to bring it to the scumbag dealers to get ripped off for any repair that the car needs.
V6's are more complex to work on since the engine compartment is designed to accommodate both I4 and V6's ... with the V6 being the larger engine.
Great video. Looks like they're making vehicles harder and harder to work on again. I have to ask, what's with the green coolant? I thought Toyota coolant was supposed to be pink.
That's the way the customer gave me his car ...with that green universal coolant. They don't know it's Toyota pink or where to buy it.
Thank you for your videos. I have a question is 13.50 volts is good for toyota sienna 2011
13.5 is more than acceptable output voltage while the engine is running. You may want to get a accessory port voltage display device to monitor the voltage while you're driving the car. I made a video on it and here's the link: th-cam.com/video/5oq5jhWkG0I/w-d-xo.html
Mate thanks a lot . I had a rough idea how to do it but I didn't know it was that completed.
You have helped me and tough me a lot through your video.
You are a legend.
Cheers
Great to hear!
Boy..thanks for the video...something I might have to do...
Glad you liked it!
Did you replace alternator belt?? If you did I did not see it.
No. I did not change the belt.
My thermostat housing bolt that you used the extension on is stripped and is on there tight. Any ideas on how I could get out that bolt out?
Get yourself a stripped bolt extractor socket set.
Do you recommend OEM alternator or any off the shelf will work? Thanks
What’s with the green antifreeze? I thought that Toyota only recommends using pink fluid.
A rebuilt of a OEM is my preference. Coolant color is a way for the auto manufacturer to encourage you to buy and use only their coolant. There's nothing in the owner's manual warning you against using non oem coolant.
@@hardlymovingpro
Thanks for the info and a helpful tip. Cheers.
You bet!
My 2009 Toyota camry SE V6, might need a new alternator, after watching your video clip I can do it by my self but if you live close by I rather pay you to do it for me...Lol
Appreciate your offer. I live near Memphis, TN.
With the two alternator bolts removed from a 2009 Venza 3.5 I couldn't get the alternator out. The bracket attached to the right inside bottom corner of the alternator had a wire attached to it. I could not release the clip so I turned the alternator sideways to access the bolt holding the bracket unto the alternator . After I removed the bolt and maneuvered the wire harness that's in front of the alternator it came out easy. The bottom alternator bolt was accessed from underneath the car. (not to be confused with bracket bolt) And yes I removed the fan.
Thanks for sharing your successful repair story!
I have a bad alternator on my 09 Venza, 2GRFE (116k miles, voltage regulator went out). I saw this video, its really well made but I am skeptical about me pulling this off without damaging some radiator parts along the way. I have the service manual from Toyota and they recommend taking the entire Radiator out. Will my radiator fins get damaged if the alternator dings it along the way?
Taking the radiator out is not required and a lot of extra work. The fins may get bent a little bit but will not damage the radiator.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the quick response, what are the steps that are challenging or pinch points where things could go wrong for a first timer?
Not having or using the correct tools; and not following instructions.
@@hardlymovingpro Cool, any chance you know the part number for those push in zip-tie mounts or where i could find them?
@@neelp9433 Do you mean push pins for the top radiator cover?
Do you have to replace a gasket around the thermostat housing? What size is the tensioner 12 or 14mm and can I get that with a socket and rachet?
Depends on the condition of the gasket but generally I don't replace the gasket. Believe it was 14 mm. Use a long handle box wrench.
This type of job is best left to a mechanic to do.
For some, yes.
Wow you really did this the hard way.
In my mind it was easy.
@@hardlymovingpro easier in y experience to leave the pulley and coolant pipe in place and remove the upper radiator support and tip the rad forward.
Your demission is still far better than removing the bumper cover and draining the entire coolant and refrigerant systems with rad & condenser removal.
@@gbean Maybe may work on a Avalon ... but on a ES350 and Camry with the same engine, there's less room.
@@hardlymovingpro in the 3rd gen Sienna there's even less room.
I have an IS350 also, it's easier there.
@@gbean Whatever works for you.
Camry V6 is the tough breed to fix it. It's the pain in the ass to dissemble and install alternator. I did it on the public street one year ago. Lol
It's jammed in there tight!
Great video. What is that tool you used to remove the hose clamp?
They're called "Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers". They're great for pinching spring clamps in tight places. The mechanics who don't know about this tool and have a hell of a time taking the clamp off (like using wide mouth pliers), resort to standard worm clamps to replace the spring clamps. Spring clamps provide continuous pressure on a hose to maintain a seal while worm clamps are set at the tension they were tighten at. As the rubber on new hose give out over time, the spring clamp will maintain the seal (unlike a work clamp that needs to be re-tighten). A link to the tool is provided in the "SHOW MORE" text description of this video. Don't buy cheapo flex hose piers. Have had problems with ones that look good but didn't perform. Here's a video link explaining the difference between worm and spring clamps: th-cam.com/video/jgSub4YpGR4/w-d-xo.html
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for the fast response! Also, I am having trouble with removing the connection at 1:20 of this video. It goes pretty fast in the video so it is a bit hard to see what you did. Thanks again.
@@williamjackson3285 You have to pinch hard the electrical fitting's pinch tab using your thumb and index finger then push, pull and wiggle the connector off.
Saved my butt. Excellent video thanks so much
Hey ... glad it worked out for you!
Does this work for the SE model or just the CE model?
Any with the v6 engine
There's an extensive procedure to burp the cooling system. On the back/top passenger side of the engine, there's a bleed valve like on the brake calipers. You attach a clear hose on there and extend it to that funnel used to fill the radiator.
I've used that bleed valve in the past after doing a water pump replacement. Not too much air comes out. The vacuum from the engine cool down period (after engine warm up) usually fills in the air pockets by sucking in reservoir coolant.
Better you than me. Good vid.
It's what I like to do!
Awesome job thanks 😊
Thanks!
Does this go for the 2009 Toyota Sienna alternator as well?
If you have the 3.5L 2GR-FE engine.
Awesome video, very detail thank you so much. I am going to do it.
Thanks ... good luck with the job!
A word of caution something to look out for while doing this procedure, I think I may have damaged my radiator doing this, it was a little bit tight and I was putting pressure on the neck of the radiator fill spout, it wasn’t obvious but shortly after I completed the procedure,that I noticed I was losing water so just be extra careful and remove a couple extra bolts if you need, to to get enough play to easily get your fans out mine was pretty tight and I was pulling pretty hard. Lesson learned just be careful not to put too much pressure on your radiator and you will be fine (Around 5:15 in the video).
Makes sense. I generally avoid using a lot of force pulling a part out. I look for what that part is rubbing / pulling / pushing against and then try to find a work around.
Thank you so much. Grate video. It helped me a lot.
Glad it worked out for you!
I find a easy way to take out the atlernator without removing the fan....loosen the motor mount bolt on the buttom on harmonic balance and front motor mount and take out the upper mount... and jack up the engine... so that you big space.... but you did a good job 👍👍
Hey ... that's a good idea! I'm going to try that next time.
Awesome video! It helped me a lot! Thank you!
Glad it helped you out!
help......I pull off my alternator and 2 small wire red/green that clip on the back bracket bolt broke off? where do they go to?
Can't say.
@@hardlymovingpro I just found out that I accidently rip the crankshaft position sensor now I got more work to do lolz
Did you reattach the bracket on back of the alternator?
Never mind I just saw where you did it. I was just wondering if I could leave that part out since it’s such a pain to get to.
I think you can leave it out.
Awesome. Thank you for sharing this video.
My pleasure ... thanks!
What does the wire go to that is connected to the little bracket on the back of the alternator
12 volt direct power from the battery.
@@hardlymovingpro the wiring I was referring to goes to crankshaft position sensor I pulled it apart your video was extremely helpful changing the alternator and to change crank sensor same process minus removing thermostat housing and idler pulley and 4 bolts out of the ac compressor
@@MoffittLivestockCompany Ok. I get it now. Thanks for sharing.
Hey what spring clamp tool are you using ?
Cable type hose clamp pliers. Here's the link: amzn.to/3QM9n4L
Great video... My friend is going to replace my alternator.. I wish o could do it myself 😭😭😭 lol but don't know mechanic
Understand ... the replacement of this particular alternator would be difficult for a newbie DIY.
Ass is money
This dude left a few things out but the basic order is there. Not a fun job if you're not mechanically inclined.
Thanks for sharing!
@@hardlymovingpro was a real knuckle buster!🥴
Occupational hazard when dealing with tight spaces!
V6 ain’t no joke.
You said it!
How long did it take you?
Little over 2 hours.
I'm gonna be doing this on an es350 but I'm also going to be replacing passenger side headlight assembly. Can you get to the alternator bolts easier through the headlight hole instead?
That's an interesting question. I would say yes ... you probably could but the radiator fan shroud may get in the way of pulling the alternator all the way out. Also, to get the headlight assembly out, there's probably a couple of bolts below the top lip of the bumper fascia covering them up. That you might have to remove the bumper fascia to get to these bolts.
@@hardlymovingpro yes, the bumper cover needs to come off to do the headlight
@@TheBenjammin It's really not that hard to remove. Nice to have a extra pair of hands when removing it.
@@hardlymovingpro
Do you have a video on removing the bumper cover?
why is the coolant green? should b pink
Doesn't matter.
Awesome video helped out alot on the third bottom bolt there is a wire mounted there i didnt see and pulled it out oops haha overall had to pull ac pump to fix that too but ur video is awesome thanks
Thanks! Appreciate your post!
thank you your video
You bet!
mechanic has changed the alternator in toyota venza
but after changing it blows the fuse
he change the fuse but after that on first start it again blow the fuse...
can anybody plz help me in this case
Check for a open wire short
it not blows on ignition but blows when we start engine
the long fuse line... that blows
@@abidali-ve5fh doesn't matter. still have to search for and find the short.
3:24 Is there a gasket needed when reinstalling the thermostat housing?
Yes ... there is a gasket for the thermostat housing; and you can replace it after removal of the thermostat housing if you want. I've done several jobs requiring removal of the housing but didn't replace the gasket. The old gasket still maintained it's sealing properties.
Thank you! I did this job today and the gasket on the housing was fine and I just left it in place... But I needed to say: That trick with the tissue paper...Freaking Awesome!!!!! Learning that trick was almost worth the hassle of my alternator blowing up. Thank you for this video. It gave me the courage to do this job myself. And again... that trick with the tissue paper, just fantastic!!
Black Dog ... the tissue paper trick is better than spending $$$'s on a socket magnet! Thanks for your comments!
I have to get this at a local shop I trust next week can you tell me about what it.'ll cost?
Robert ...rle1875@aol.com
Nice video but we didn't have to take off the fan shroud, that metal coolant pipe or pulley.
Hats off! Assume you did it on your back under the car and wheel well? I f so, I'll stay on top with my feet on the ground.
I'm about to do this job tomorrow how did you do yours.
Can you tell me wat amp is it. Is it a 100 130 or 150 or does it matter
Doesn't matter. Maybe the Winter or Tow package option, if it comes with one, has more amps.
@@hardlymovingpro well they telling me I need the 150 amp cause car made in Japan this stuff confusing but thanks for the info
You think this is crazy, try replacing the three rear spark plugs. Dang, Toyota...good thing your parts last a long time.
I can replace those firewall plugs with the front plugs in around 2 hours. It's not that hard. Here's the video where I did it:
th-cam.com/video/vczTJ-pAVT8/w-d-xo.html
2gr rear bank plugs is cake. now the 1mz ones on the old 99 camrys those are a pain.
@@hardlymovingpro . Awesome, thanks!
You bet!
Ok ... Good luck!
Thank you so much man , this is so helpful
Bro...my thermostat outlet pipe is leaking ...is there a gasket needed? ?
Yes. Looks like a o ring.
@@hardlymovingpro i should have been more specific...i meant besides the black rubber gasket that fits around the thermostat...i thought perhaps there was a gasket or sealant to be used around the housing. is it possible that i put the housing on backwards ??
@@CAFEX24 long part of thermostat goes into long alum tube with the 10mm stud holes for the thermostat housing
@@hardlymovingpro I'm not inquiring about the placement of the thermostat ...I was wondering if it was possible to put the tube on the wrong way lol
Don't think so
Same process for the 2012 v6 too or diff step?
Yes ... up to 2012.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you appreciated sir
has anybody verified if you actually need to remove the thermostat tube and tension pulley? i am about to do this job in 2 weeks and i feel like you could just take the fan shroud off and remove the radiator hoses and serpentine belt and have access to the bolts that hold the alternator in place. trying to save as much time as possible
There's been a few comments stating that it's unnecessary to remove the fan schroud, tensioner pulley and thermostat tube. I took their comments to heart, looked at it from different angles with a couple of other guys and concluded it can't be done any easier. There's very little room to maneuver the alternator out.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks man
Dang that’s crazy my Camry 4cly is way easier good video
Yea ... I know. I4's are easier to work on than V6's.
Thanks bro
Welcome!
Damn I’ll keep my 4 banger 6 sounds nice though
4 is easier to work on.
How did you save the computer memory?
connect a flashlight battery between the positive and negative terminals.
nice video.
Thanks!
How much do you charge for this work ?
Around 2 hrs and whatever your labor rate is
How do you charge a 2012 Camry altenator
4 or 6 cylinder Camry?