How to Install Rear Wheel Bearing Hub 11-17 Ford Explorer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
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New Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ib/1ASH...
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning rear wheel bearing hub. This video is applicable to the 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 Ford Explorer
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/oCj/1AX...
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/ocx/1AX...
• 15mm Wrench 1aau.to/ofq/1AX...
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/otL/1AX...
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/ow4/1AX...
• 15mm Socket 1aau.to/ow4/1AX...
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/ogA/1AX...
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/otL/1AX...
• 1-1/4 Inch Socket
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/odM/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oCJ/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/ow4/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oiB/1AX...
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Bungee Cord
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Rust Penetrant
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/ohh/1AX...
• Hammer 1aau.to/oef/1AX...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/ohi/1AX...
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/obk/1AX...
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/7n/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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√ *Do it Yourself*
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You obviously live on a different planet than I do. For everyone else this is one of the hardest repairs you will ever do. If your car has ever seen salt, you need to remove the lugs and bolt it out.
They never come out that easy!!
This video makes it look SO insanely easy that you must feel you are a complete and total moron if you can't do this job in an hour, (it literally took my 5 and a half hours to do this).
@@snoopstp4189 I concur. I did the front and took me all day to do both sides. No way that comes out that easy. Plus notice there's barely any corrosion when he pulls the hub out.
@@trionone you saying it's staged lol, my buddy who ford truck suv wrench man said the book says 3 hours he said be prepared they are an absolute pita to get out.
They do not come out easy at all. Especially if you live somewhere it snows. I went ahead and spent the $40 on a tool to make it a million times easier. It's the kind that attaches to 2 lugs and then you can smash it with a sledge. Worth every penny.
this must be an Arizona car, here in Michigan, I ran out of options, Hammering, torch, slide hammer this thing is on there tighter like Excalibur
Just did this job on a 2015 Explorer XLT.
1st time doing it, vehicle has been in Ohio and Illinois entire life.
Everything with the job is easy except getting that hub assembly off.
Slide hammer - no good
Sledge hammer - no good
PB Blaster - didn’t seem to make any difference
Brake dust shield is a pain to work around and I so badly wanted to cut it out but resisted.
The only thing that worked for me were a bunch of 1/2inch by 4inch hex bolts, nuts and washers. Cut off two studs on existing hub with grinder, fed bolts through and used washers to protect the knuckle. Evenly crank down on those until it breaks free and keep going till it pops out. I went through 5 bolts as the threads couldn’t handle the force, so I’d cut them off and run the next one through.
Used a powerful cordless impact to run the bolts. Could not do this by hand without a massive breaker bar.
Tough job.
This is not an honest representation of this repair. Dissimilar metals cause a brutal corrosion that are the equivalent of a weld. An accurate portrayal would be breaking out the hot torch and utilizing a wheel bearing shaker with the biggest of BFH'S. I appreciate your videos for their accuracy. Please represent the difficult jobs as to not get the average Joe stuck.
Instructions were good but if you are from the Northeast be prepared to spend 8 hours trying to get the hub out of the aluminum housing. Galvanic action kept it from coming out. Had to heat it with an oxy acetylene torch red hot then use chisels to pry it out! Built Ford Tough garbage
I’m in northern New York State and having the same problem. Likely nothing to do with Ford and every thing to do with road salt.
Same here in Ontario Canada. All the cars here are subject to salt but this 2017 explorer rear bearing would not come out for anything. We had to replace the knuckle. It's only the fact that its Ford Garbage
This is not a ford problem. Corrosion happens with all metals on all car manufacturers. They all use very similar methods to attach wheel hubs to the axle assemblies. It has nothing to do with it being a ford, chevy, honda or whatever.
I'm in northern ohio. Every car I have done hubs on with aluminum knuckles are frozen in.. nothing about manufacturers... all the same.
As always, great video guys! Question though: are those torque specs for the heavy duty/police model ford explorer? 258 ft. lbs. for the axle nut seems like a lot!
Very late, but for others watching, this is the factory torque for all explorer trims
Looks easy. But when I do it it takes more than two days of cussing and throwing wrenches
Not all are made the same. Even with an extension..it hard to get to and i forgot how i did it the first time! LOL. You guys have 1 of the best videos
I need to buy a ratchet...some reason I dont trust it.
Great instruction video! Any tips on removing the ABS sensor if it is frozen to the knuckle? I've been "wiggling" it and applying penetrating lube all morning and it absolutely will not budge... :(
PB blaster is good. You could also try a hairdryer/ heat gun.Sometimes they are in there so bad they have to be drilled out. Be careful when doing this. If you touch that bit to the ABS ring you'll have to replace the wheel bearing and that is 100% a professional level difficult job.
I've seen where you just remove the caliper bracket bolts (4) and move the whole assembly out of the way.
You may want to make sure you have a wheel puller and a torch. I had to use a large sledge hammer in order to remove the rotors, and hours to get the hubs off. I hate Fords now!
Doing my 06 Ford and them three bolts are not giving, also looks like it hasn't been replaced ever. Any suggestions I have already put 4 days of PB penetrating and Ive used my break bar as well.
I did front hubs myself a couple years ago. If you live in an area with snow and salted roads this is not a job worth doing yourself. I spent hours on each side with an 8lb sledge getting them to break free.
I call bullshit. Fake video, where is the 8 hours of trying to beat the hub out with every tool you own????
Hello. I changed the front ones out. I used the Hub Shocker tool on the driver side. I used a sledge to tap down, left and right a few times. It came out. Somehow the passenger side one didn't require any special removal tool. After I took out the 4 bolts the hub easily separated without any problem. I guess I got lucky. I'm in Florida. Question? Are the hub bearing assemblies the same for the rear? Thanks for your video.
Yeh, no salt on the roads! In Canada the roads are salted all winter, so the aluminum and steel create a current in the salt environment and literally weld the hub to the knuckle. I posted a link if this is what is happening to others.
th-cam.com/video/2RLVccBQ_jU/w-d-xo.html
I watch this video hoping to find a better way than "muscling" the bearing out I have beat on them things for an hour before seeing the first movement
Dude....took me to hours of air hammering and sled hammering by hand worked better wow
Can you do a video on removing the rear cv axles on this vehicle. Looks like it can slide through the knuckle to remove it far enough from the diff. Just my guess.
+Liu Moon We are always expanding our video library so check back soon!
What's the part number of the brake caliper tool you used to push the caliper back?
Thats is the thing about these tutorials 😄telling a novice do it yourselfer to use a hammer and muscle it off 😆😆😆😆😆, GOOD LUCK WITH THAT
Is it necessary to change the bolt that hold the hub in? Are they tty?
I don’t know about factory torque on the caliper slide pin bolts, but when I tried to torque to the 53 foot-pounds as stated in this video, I sheared off one of the bolts. Perhaps it was supposed to be 53 in-lbs?
Factory caliper slide pin bolt specs:
325 mm (13 in) brakes :: 53 lb.ft (72 Nm)
352 mm (14 in) brakes :: 55 lb.ft (75 Nm)
is it recommended to use any sort of grease or oil on the splines of the axle prior to installation?
Do you have to remove the torx screw?
I cannot express how misleading this video is. In concurrence with the comments below, this will not be your experience if you try this at home. Living in the northeast, You will need to remove the knuckle and press the bearing and hub out. No puller, no hammer, just a press. If you read the comments below you will see people using torches, chisels, cutting the dust/heat gird to get a good platform. It’s something you should just buy the part and pay a shop 200 dollars for labor.
If I knew a shop that would do the job right and for 200$ I probably would. It's funny how everybody knows a great local mechanic EXCEPT for me.
I was quoted $780 for the front. The part was $190. 🤔
Just did one at work, removing the knuckle wasn’t an option… 4 hours with a torch and air hammer it finally came out… aluminum and steel don’t mix
+@Alexsslawncare Thanks for the feedback!
Would this be the same as a 2010 ford ranger 4x4?
Hey bud after you put in the bearing did everything work okay with the ABS and four-wheel drive.....cuz that hub didn't have the notches on the back of it like the stock one did and my replacement is the same as what you put on and I'm wondering if it'll work... Thank you!
+Denny R Thanks for watching! Yes this hub still worked with the ABS, as they are not designed with an actual tone ring like some older models use.
@@1AAuto thank you
That did not came off with one Ugga dugga; last one run out of options
without pressing the hub bearing into the knuckle what is going to stop it from spinning ?
+Joel Corbett This type of rear wheel bearing is a bolt in design. The hub and bearing are pressed togther as an assembly and then bolted to the kunckle. The rear CV axle then goes through the hub and drives the wheel.
the 4 bolts holding it in
Where can you get a torque wrench that goes over 258 ft pounds?
Harbor Freight sells a 3/4 in that goes 50-300 lb-ft for $89
The first thing you should of done is taken the axle nut off with the brake pedal applied
+jimmy Molinaro Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
The inside of that knuckle was awful clean for just taking that wheel bearing out they have a real mechanic actually do the work and clean it up first and then put it back together and then this guy comes in and makes the the video
I didn't have that guard on mine after the rotor
+F Gordon Thanks for the question. That is the dust shield and can sometimes get corroded and fall off the vehicle. Their primary duty is catching all the debris and dust blown from the brake disc and preventing it from setting on your rims.
The video would be more realistic if there was a bearing puller and a slide hammer... it's not this easy.
+stubbs5969 Thanks for the feedback!
What size on socket for hub nut?
32mm axle and 18mm for the four nuts on back
I like how all the hardware was already pre loose lol. It will mever be this easy idc if your jebus
Thanks buddy
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Jeffery Foreman
Great ‼️
👍😉😀
Mines frozen
Oh that easy ! Simple. Just a couple knocks and she’s out. I came here to see if you used other methods for real life situation. But noooooo. I just slightly hit it like a purse and bam it’s out.
Be careful tapping on the shaft. Dont want to peen over threads. Use a center punch or something
+Ryan August Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Last one I changed the prior repair they fuckin silicone the thing in
Yea i had to press mine out in michigan. DO NOT buy Carquest brand. Both my back bearings went bad after 6 months