I make a lot of tool handles for myself and others and do most of my final shaping with rasps. This allows me to finely tune the shape of the handle and accommodate individual needs. I have a friend who was born with a malformed hand, and I can make handles that fit his unusual grip perfectly. I acquired several socket chisels with handles I hated. All 4 have handles I shaped with rasps, and I love the results. Shaping with rasps is a process I enjoy immensely.
I acquired a Shinto saw rasp, fine on one side coarse on the other. It's a refined beast. You use one, you'll rarely pick up a different one. Exceptionally fast and yet capable of some detail shaping.
I just switched to using the Shinto rasps, they are great for hogging off material quickly, such as taking the square edges/corners off a square block to shape into a round, when not using power tools.
I bought some hand-stitched rasps a couple years ago -- really glad I did, noticeable difference over machine made. You may not need them, but you know you want them. Also, as others have mentioned, the Shinto saw rasp is an amazing tool.
You forgot to mention that the hand stitched ones are also available with "left handed" stitching! Also, a metal file works well once you are at the smoothing stage... and metal files are generally much cheaper than rasps.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Really you should ! A great rasp for shaping, very quick and efficient, easy cleaning, and cheap (even Paul Sellers likes it ^^) Iwasaki doesn't make the Shinto rasp, they make some kind of hybrid between a file and a float. This thing leave a really smooth surface like a plane and it does amazing work on end grain and are more efficient than a file. But they are grain sensitive (hope it makes sense, I'm french). I recomment you try a fine orx-fine one because this is quite agressive. BTW thank you for your very interresting videos.
Shinto and Iwasaki are different brands. The Iwasaki rasps actually act like tiny planes taking small shavings. They produce chips rather than dust an dthey look more like files than rasps. I was hesitant, but they work very well and they are priced right.
Literally been working on a set of knife scales using rasps in the last few days. I used the Kutzall half-round 6" fine. It's a little bit different than traditional rasps but It works very well.
used double cut metal files with slightly wider and longer teeth (vs. pointy checkering style) make a good combination with inexpensive rasps. I'd bet a whole lot of expensive rasps are bought by people who don't use them much. I rarely use them on anything other than handles. Hand cut rasps are so much smoother since they don't row, but the file kind of negates that need and you don't feel like you have to be dainty or sparing with them.
In france we all use rasp, it's a must have when dealing with curves and shapes. You MUST NOT drag it backward cause it will dull the teeth way more quickly than when it's cutting wood.
I don't think I've ever seen or heard of an ironing rasp before, but I definitely have had situations where that would have been extremely useful. Time to go shopping. Thanks for the information.
For me this is a very important tool. The shinto must be great, but for certain profiles you need a flat and curved rasp. Unbeatable when making the handle of my speargun, for example.
I have a Japanese style rasp and it's great - much more efficient than European rasps. Having a course and fine side provides a lot of flexibility for how much material to remove and it's easier to control.
Interesting, as usual Would you please teach us about floats. I´ve got several but don´t know clearly how and when to use them Thank you. Best regards. carlos
I've used a four-in-hand for the past fifty years or so. If you're way out in the bush somewhere and you're doing moderately fine handwork, it's a necessary finishing tool, possibly the last one you'll use before assembly. It's a bit heavy for its size, but compact and sturdy, and most of all dependable. With a little patience, it will put chamfers on edges or hollows on faces that need them.
Rob, your guidance is much appreciated. Of the three you recommend you didn't specify length and manufacture. Any chance you could share that info. I understand why you wouldn't mention a manufacture, you could msg me if that works.
Was just about to react on the original topic: he didn’t mention these. I have one with two sides from liogier: one side with course perpendicular lines and one fine skewed side, and really love these. I find it takes of a lot of material but leaves a great almost smooth finish, it compares more to planing really. Perfect for removing the marks of bigger rasps
I'm looking your videos from Germany. If i follow your Information it is for me not nacessary to translat inch in mm. My question: Can you sow us in the videos the Inch=mm tanslation. That were very nice.
I'd personally use rough metal files because with a rasp you cut file half of what you need. The other half you'll be filing and sanding to remove the gouges the rasp left.
whats your thoughts on using a drafting brush with horsair over nylon/brass? i've been a bit worried that cleaning rasps with a hard material would dull them faster.
Brass is nowhere near as hard as steel. You'll run out of brush before you hurt a rasp or file. And anything softer than brass or stiff nylon won't adequately clean out the really stubborn bits of wood that clog things up.
I found it from an article of the sawmill creak. But vore me thets no Option. I'm German. In Germany al file huwers clloased what I know. If somebody news a file huwer in Germania, wood be great.
I have seen other videos on "sharpening" files where they are soaked in liquids. The soaking softened the build up of dust and crud in the teeth and made it easy to clean them. There was no sharpening of the cutting edge. I know from history urine get used for different processes (like dyes) but it is the ammonia from old urine that is the key ingredient. I cannot see how ammonia would do anything to help with sharpening.
There is no pattern that's why it doesn't vibrate. I guess you could program a robot hand to replicate a hand stitched one but it would be too expensive and it's a small market.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Have you seen Rob's video the best woodworking gadgets of 2021? th-cam.com/video/6graUSInBEM/w-d-xo.html
Have you made a video about surforms?
I make a lot of tool handles for myself and others and do most of my final shaping with rasps. This allows me to finely tune the shape of the handle and accommodate individual needs. I have a friend who was born with a malformed hand, and I can make handles that fit his unusual grip perfectly. I acquired several socket chisels with handles I hated. All 4 have handles I shaped with rasps, and I love the results. Shaping with rasps is a process I enjoy immensely.
I acquired a Shinto saw rasp, fine on one side coarse on the other. It's a refined beast. You use one, you'll rarely pick up a different one. Exceptionally fast and yet capable of some detail shaping.
Same here. Cheap, lasts forever, self-clearing. Just brilliant for both bulk removal and surprising detail.. They are indispensible, IMHO...
Thanks for the comment
I just switched to using the Shinto rasps, they are great for hogging off material quickly, such as taking the square edges/corners off a square block to shape into a round, when not using power tools.
I bought some hand-stitched rasps a couple years ago -- really glad I did, noticeable difference over machine made. You may not need them, but you know you want them. Also, as others have mentioned, the Shinto saw rasp is an amazing tool.
You forgot to mention that the hand stitched ones are also available with "left handed" stitching! Also, a metal file works well once you are at the smoothing stage... and metal files are generally much cheaper than rasps.
I use a bunch of different rasps, Shinto saw rasps and even automotive bodywork flat rasps in my guitar building. Saves a lot of cutting and sanding.
I use rasps but honestly I didn't know that there were so many of them. Great education thanks a lot.
I have one Auriou cabinet maker's rasp that I've had for years. I use it alot and it's one of my most cherished tools.
Very educational. I am starting wood working, and my tools are nil. I can use this video to decide what to buy. Thanks!
Iwasaki - a Japanese manufacturer makes great rasps, significantly different than the European ones.
I have never used the Japanese Shinto rasps
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Really you should ! A great rasp for shaping, very quick and efficient, easy cleaning, and cheap (even Paul Sellers likes it ^^)
Iwasaki doesn't make the Shinto rasp, they make some kind of hybrid between a file and a float. This thing leave a really smooth surface like a plane and it does amazing work on end grain and are more efficient than a file. But they are grain sensitive (hope it makes sense, I'm french). I recomment you try a fine orx-fine one because this is quite agressive.
BTW thank you for your very interresting videos.
I wouldn't be without my Shinto Rasp.
Shinto and Iwasaki are different brands. The Iwasaki rasps actually act like tiny planes taking small shavings. They produce chips rather than dust an dthey look more like files than rasps. I was hesitant, but they work very well and they are priced right.
@@twistednerve8001 me neither !
Shinto saw rasp, under 30 euro, it's one of my favourite tools
Thanks for watching and commenting
One of the most underrated underused tools in the shop! Can do amazing things with a rasp and card scraper
Literally been working on a set of knife scales using rasps in the last few days. I used the Kutzall half-round 6" fine. It's a little bit different than traditional rasps but It works very well.
Really good comment on another style rasp
👍Thanks, really very helpful. The best explanation and demo of woodworking rasps that I have found yet! 🙂
used double cut metal files with slightly wider and longer teeth (vs. pointy checkering style) make a good combination with inexpensive rasps. I'd bet a whole lot of expensive rasps are bought by people who don't use them much. I rarely use them on anything other than handles.
Hand cut rasps are so much smoother since they don't row, but the file kind of negates that need and you don't feel like you have to be dainty or sparing with them.
In france we all use rasp, it's a must have when dealing with curves and shapes. You MUST NOT drag it backward cause it will dull the teeth way more quickly than when it's cutting wood.
Great yip, thanks for the comment
Always a pleasure to soak up some of this educational content and wisdom.
Excellent video. Thank you. I use a Shinto and a dragon for guitar necks. Love them. Picked up an Auriou modelers, but haven’t used it yet.
Thanks!! This video was very helpful!!
Also work well for sculpting with soft stone (alabaster, soap stone, etc).
I don't think I've ever seen or heard of an ironing rasp before, but I definitely have had situations where that would have been extremely useful. Time to go shopping. Thanks for the information.
You bet
For me this is a very important tool. The shinto must be great, but for certain profiles you need a flat and curved rasp. Unbeatable when making the handle of my speargun, for example.
Very informative and to the point, I love y'all, great work and thank-you for sharing:D
I have a Japanese style rasp and it's great - much more efficient than European rasps. Having a course and fine side provides a lot of flexibility for how much material to remove and it's easier to control.
I have never used one. Luther likes his but says it doesn’t replace his fine and small rasps
Thanks for detailed explanation and information.👍👍👍
Great video Rob! Thanks!!!
Thanks, very useful information.
Interesting, as usual
Would you please teach us about floats. I´ve got several but don´t know clearly how and when to use them
Thank you.
Best regards.
carlos
I've used a four-in-hand for the past fifty years or so. If you're way out in the bush somewhere and you're doing moderately fine handwork, it's a necessary finishing tool, possibly the last one you'll use before assembly. It's a bit heavy for its size, but compact and sturdy, and most of all dependable. With a little patience, it will put chamfers on edges or hollows on faces that need them.
How long do four-in-hand rasps last?
Rob, your guidance is much appreciated. Of the three you recommend you didn't specify length and manufacture. Any chance you could share that info. I understand why you wouldn't mention a manufacture, you could msg me if that works.
If you're looking for some nice rasps, take a look at the dragon rasp from StewMac.
Cool, I didn’t know anything about rasps
Yes. Yes you do.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I like using my rasps as a fast and productive way to shape odd size parts and get areas hard to reach with planes.
I do the same
Thank u for your knowledge.
Great.
Thanks for commenting
Could you do a segment on floats? Where and why would someone use them?
Was just about to react on the original topic: he didn’t mention these. I have one with two sides from liogier: one side with course perpendicular lines and one fine skewed side, and really love these. I find it takes of a lot of material but leaves a great almost smooth finish, it compares more to planing really. Perfect for removing the marks of bigger rasps
I'm looking your videos from Germany. If i follow your Information it is for me not nacessary to translat inch in mm.
My question: Can you sow us in the videos the Inch=mm tanslation. That were very nice.
Hi Rob, I don’t know if you mentioned or not. But what bar and do you recommend? Thanks
I'd personally use rough metal files because with a rasp you cut file half of what you need. The other half you'll be filing and sanding to remove the gouges the rasp left.
Thats why you use a medium and then fine rasps to smooth out the rough rasp
Quality rasps font leave tool marks like you're thinking of.
Hi Rob, will you talk about this week's class on the weekend live show?
It will be held in their class
Can't what ...thanks for all you and yours do
When would you use a rasp
Over a spokeshave
I know metal files are made with a 3-cornered version. How about wood rasps? Advantages?
Why do you have a 120mm Sabot round next to your bench?
whats your thoughts on using a drafting brush with horsair over nylon/brass? i've been a bit worried that cleaning rasps with a hard material would dull them faster.
Brass is nowhere near as hard as steel. You'll run out of brush before you hurt a rasp or file. And anything softer than brass or stiff nylon won't adequately clean out the really stubborn bits of wood that clog things up.
Gunstock makers often like auto body files. They can be both rasp and file depending on how hard u push it.
Interesting, i have never tried them
Rob’s turning into a pirate. Arrr!!! 10:04
Nice👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks
Farriers rasp….2 sided and gives a good surface on flats and outside corners
Thers a company in the Us. You can send your rasps and fils there and they ŕehew them vor very cheap.
They do that to hand stitched rasps? What is the company
I found it from an article of the sawmill creak. But vore me thets no Option. I'm German. In Germany al file huwers clloased what I know. If somebody news a file huwer in Germania, wood be great.
Thanks for the lesson Rob! JImE
Is there a brand you prefer?
Auriou
I prefer Loigler, but Auriou are also excellent
I recall blacksmiths soaking rasps in horse urine to sharpen. I have also heard using vinegar. Dunno workshop myth?
I never heard thst, maybe someone out there can help. Does anyone know?
I have seen other videos on "sharpening" files where they are soaked in liquids. The soaking softened the build up of dust and crud in the teeth and made it easy to clean them. There was no sharpening of the cutting edge.
I know from history urine get used for different processes (like dyes) but it is the ammonia from old urine that is the key ingredient. I cannot see how ammonia would do anything to help with sharpening.
Where is my CBN rasp !!!
Why couldn’t a machine be programmed to replicate the pattern of a hand stitched rasp?
There is no pattern that's why it doesn't vibrate. I guess you could program a robot hand to replicate a hand stitched one but it would be too expensive and it's a small market.
Must be too expensive because no one does it
First
2 gold stars
Very helpful. Thank you.